Your hydrangea may be dying due to an environmental factor that is causing the plant stress. That factor could be underwatering, frost, light issues, or transplant shock. The first step on the road to successful treatment is correctly diagnosing the cause of the plant’s declining health.
In this article, we will discuss the different reasons your hydrangea may be dying and how to save it.
Why is my hydrangea dying?
It is underwatered
The symptoms of an underwatered hydrangea are wilting and drooping flowers and leaves. The leaves will also turn yellow, and then brown.
Your plant can become underwatered for several reasons: If it is not given enough water, if the soil it is planted in drains too quickly, if there are bigger plants or trees near the hydrangea that are also competing for water, or if it gets too much sun or too much nitrogen fertilizer.
Hydrangeas have a root system that is quite close to the soil’s surface, which is why they need to be watered frequently than other plants, since their roots cannot reach down to access deeper water.
If the soil you planted the hydrangea in is stony or sandy with very little organic content, the soil will drain quickly and the plant may not be able to absorb sufficient water in time.
If the plant is in an area affected often by brisk winds, it can lose a lot of moisture through its leaves, especially if it has no protective covering whatsoever.
Save an underwatered hydrangea by watering the soil around the plant generously. This is important for hydrangeas that are planted next to bigger plants or trees that also need a lot of water.
If the soil is stony or sandy, take the plant out of the pot and add organic material to the soil. Leaf mould and compost also helps the soil around the plant retain water more effectively.
You can add mulch and manure around your hydrangea along with the leaf mould and compost. This mixture will conserve water, add much-needed nutrients, help with the soil’s structure and keep the sun from reaching the soil and drying it out.
Only water the soil when it feels a bit dry. Then, soak the soil so that all of it is watered well and all the plant’s roots get wet.
Too much sunlight
A hydrangea that is getting too much sun will have leaves that are yellow and scorched, and they will look dry even if you are watering your plant regularly.
Your plant can get too much sun if it is planted in an area with no shade. If the plant gets full sunlight for more than six hours, its leaves can get sun damaged.
Hydrangeas live under the tree canopy in their natural habitat, so they do not do well in places with no protection from the wind and sun.
The sun can also dry out the soil around the base of the plant, making the flowers and leaves wilt.
You can diagnose sun damage in hydrangeas if you notice that the leaves that get the most light are the ones that appear to be the most affected, while the parts of the plant in the shade seem to be doing alright.
Remember, however, that even though these plants like the shade, they still need their share of sunlight to facilitate blooming.
Save your sun-damaged plant by transferring it to a spot that has more shade than its current location. You can place it near your porch or under a tree in your yard.
Leaves that have been scorched cannot be salvaged, so you are better off pruning them to preserve the aesthetic of the plant.
Frost damage
The most noticeable symptom of a hydrangea with frost damage is when both the leaves and the flowers of the plant turn brown or black all of sudden.
Frost damage happens when you allow your plant to remain outside in the winter cold without any kind of protection. The new foliage is the most vulnerable to frost damage.
The changes to the color of the plant are almost instantaneous when dealing with frost damage. Usually the mature leaves of the plant do not get frost-damaged, especially if they have become acclimatized to winter weather.
Revive your hydrangea from frost damage by pruning away any foliage that has been damaged. This will encourage the growth of new foliage in the spring and summer.
The frost can damage the buds of the plant, in which case the plant is unlikely to flower in the spring.
Transplant shock
The symptoms of transplant shock are dying, wilting and browning leaves on the hydrangea.
This plant is relatively hardy, but when they are forced to adapt to new living conditions, it can take quite a toll on them.
When you bought your plant from the nursery, it was growing in ideal conditions. You then brought it to your home, which has completely different temperatures, humidity levels, watering schedules and light, all of which are stressful for the plant and can cause transplant shock.
Another cause of transplant shock is planting a hydrangea during the summer. Do not do this, because the new roots can dry out quickly in the heat. Instead, plant a hydrangea in the spring or fall because these are the climates that most encourage the plant to develop its roots properly.
Save your hydrangea from transplant shock by choosing to plant it in the spring or fall, as mentioned above. If you happen to plant it in the summer, try to protect it from the sun and the heat and to water it as frequently as necessary to keep the soil moist.
Also place mulch on the soil to keep it moist.
If the plant is suffering from shock because you have just brought it home from the nursery, the best thing you can do is to try to emulate, as best as possible, the plant’s ideal living conditions.
Conclusion
The reason your hydrangea is dying is that one or more environmental factors are causing it stress. The most common causes of dying hydrangeas are underwatering, too much sun, frost damage and transplant shock. Once you figure out which of these is the culprit, you have a better chance of fixing the problem and saving your plant.
Help revive your dying hydrangea by making sure you give it enough water, protect it from the sun and harsh winds, apply mulch to the soil and to remove any sun- or frost-damaged foliage to promote the healthy growth of new leaves and flowers.
Image: istockphoto.com / Miriam Eikendal-Brugman