Audrey Woods

Your lovely evergreen ceanothus has been growing beautifully throughout spring, when suddenly you notice several of its leaves turning yellow. Naturally, this will have you worried!

Ceanothus leaves can turn yellow due to improper watering, prolonged sunlight exposure, overfertilization, or natural aging. Before you panic, take a few deep breaths and assess your plant’s condition. Sometimes, all you need to do is tweak your plant care routine to save the entire plant from yellowing. 

Ceanothus plant care basics

One of the many reasons gardeners love ceanothus is due to its impressive display of beautiful blue flowers. Also known as Californian lilac, blueblossom, or buckbrush, ceanothus is endemic to the Pacific coast of North America. It belongs to the Rhamnaceae family and includes more than 60 different species that are identified as small trees or shrubs. 

While most ceanothus species produce blooms in shades of powder blue to azure, a few cultivars can also have pink or white flowers. Depending on the variety, these sweet, fragrant blooms mostly emerge during the spring and summer, with certain cultivars blooming in the fall. This means you can choose ceanothus cultivars to fill your garden with flowers across most of the year!

If you plan to grow these dazzling blooms in your area, keep in mind that most ceanothus species thrive in zones seven to nine. A few cultivars, like the Ceanothus americanus, can also grow in zones four to eight. So choose wisely!

One important feature of ceanothus species is that they tend to be drought tolerant once fully established. Evergreen or deciduous, these plants are happier in full sunlight, but they can also grow in partial shade. If you live in an area with an extremely hot climate, then planting your ceanothus in partial shade would be a better option to avoid sunburn.

For newbie gardeners, growing a mass of pretty blooms in this rarest of blue colors might seem a little bit intimidating. But here is some good news – you do not have to be a green thumb to succeed in growing Californian lilacs. These flowering species are among the easiest to grow, as long as the conditions are right – moist, well-draining soil and a sheltered area with lots of sunlight. Ideally, you should choose a ceanothus cultivar that is suited to your local climate. 

Causes of yellow leaves on ceanothus

So, you have just been enjoying the beautiful growth of your ceanothus when all of a sudden its leaves start turning yellow. This unsightly appearance can be both surprising and alarming, especially if you cannot identify the underlying cause.

There are several reasons your ceanothus shrub might develop yellow leaves, as summarized below:

1. Prolonged sunlight exposure

Extreme sunlight exposure can turn the leaves of your beautiful shrubs yellow. Sunburn, or leaf scorch, is a common issue, not just for ceanothus but almost any shrub or ornamental plant exposed to direct sunlight.

While sunlight is necessary for plants to photosynthesize, excessive heat and harmful UV rays can quickly dry their leaves through increased transpiration. The roots will not be able to meet the increased demand for moisture, which is why the leaves wilt, become pale, and develop burned spots. Thankfully, this issue can be resolved by transferring your plant to a spot with enough shade cover.

Do not move your ceanothus to full shade, however, as a lack of sunlight can also yellow its leaves. Try to position it where it can get the optimum amount of sunlight without burning its leaves or being totally deprived of light. On hot days, consider adding a shade cloth to protect your plant from the heat.  

2. Too much water

Overwatering is another reason your ceanothus might produce yellow leaves. As you might know already, ceanothus is used to the dry climate of California, which is its native habitat. This means that water pooling around its roots can quickly drown the plant by cutting off the supply of oxygen to its roots. If the issue is not corrected right away, the excess moisture can cause the roots to rot and compromise the health of your entire plant, hence the yellowing leaves. 

Other signs of overwatering include wilting, leaf drop, and stunted growth.

Your quick intervention is important to save your shrub from the ill effects of overwatering. If you have caught the issue in time, you simply need to stop watering immediately and give the soil time to dry completely. Use a soil moisture probe to accurately determine the dampness of the soil from now on, and water your plants only as needed. This will likely be more during summer than in winter.

3. Poor soil drainage

Poor soil drainage can have effects similar to those of overwatering. Even if you are not actually giving your plants too much water, the lack of drainage can cause water to pool in the soil and eventually drown the roots. Clay or compacted soil is especially problematic for your ceanothus, so make sure you choose your soil wisely!

One way to correct a drainage issue is to add sand or stones to improve the soil’s aeration. You may also consider using a tool like a digging fork or a plug coring aerator to amend the compacted soil in your garden before planting. Poke holes into the soil as deeply as you can to break up any compaction underneath and loosen the soil even more. Avoid walking or stepping on your garden bed as this can lead to compaction all over again.

Lastly, make sure that your shrubs are planted away from sprinkler systems or sloped areas such as at the bottom of a hill. 

4. Root rot disease

Root rot is caused by soil-borne fungal pathogens that thrive in wet environments. It tends to be prevalent in overwatered plants, including ceanothus – even more so when the weather is warm and humid. Shrubs affected with this disease struggle with decayed roots that feel mushy and emit a foul odor.

Unfortunately, severe cases of root rot can be difficult to treat. As the disease progresses, your ceanothus will start to show several other signs such as wilting, dropping leaves, dieback of stems and foliage and, eventually, death. The fungal disease can also spread quickly through the soil, so it is very important to discard the affected plant immediately and apply soil treatments to prevent nearby plants from infection.

5. Underwatering

A lack of water can also cause leaf yellowing. Dehydrated shrubs will also lose their turgor and appear a bit sad and lifeless. The leaves may wilt, curl, and feel dry or brittle due to the lack of moisture.

But, unlike overwatering, underwatering is usually quite easy to reverse. Checking the soil regularly should provide a clue as to when your plants need a drink. Depending on your local climate, you should be watering your ceanothus thoroughly once every two to three weeks, or every time the soil starts to look dry. However, do not let the soil become bone-dry, or you risk damaging the root system.

6. Too much fertilizer

Yellow leaves can be a key indicator that your shrubs are struggling with overfertilization. In this case, you might also notice a white crust forming on the top layer of the soil. This condition is known as root burn, and aside from the yellowing leaves, it can also cause leaf deformities, wilting, stunted growth, and browning leaf tips.

The best way to treat overfertilization is to flush the excess nutrients out of the soil with water. Flood the soil thoroughly using a sprinkler or a garden hose, but make sure not to leave the soil too watery. Repeat the process every few days and let your shrub recover for about a month or so before feeding it again.

7. Summer leaf drop 

The yellowing of your ceanothus leaves does not always mean trouble. If your shrubs are grown in the right conditions and you cannot identify any potential issues, then the yellow leaves could just be part of their natural growth cycle.

So, take a closer look at your plants. Are the yellow leaves mostly on the lower branches? Do the yellow leaves appear old and large, and evenly distributed throughout the foliage? Do you notice new leaves growing on the branches? If so, then your ceanothus is probably showing signs of summer leaf drop. This process is normal for most plants.

Shedding of the older leaves helps evergreens conserve their resources to make way for new, healthy leaves. You might notice your shrubs losing a few leaves occasionally, but not all at once. 

If you are bothered by the unsightly yellow leaves, you can gently cut them off. Do not worry – cutting a few yellow leaves will not harm your plant. Otherwise, just leave your shrub alone and let it do its thing.

How do I fix yellow leaves on my ceanothus?

Yellowing of ceanothus leaves is mostly caused by improper watering, so consider correcting this issue first to save your shrub. Water your plant thoroughly and deeply, and let the soil dry out before watering again. Avoid planting it near a water source such as a sprinkler or drip hose, and make sure not to add too many moisture-retaining materials into the soil, like compost or mulch.

Adequate sunlight is important for ceanothus, too. These beautiful shrubs prefer a brightly-lit spot but without too much intense heat. If your local climate is too harsh for your ceanothus, consider using a shade cloth to protect its delicate foliage. Alternatively, plant it in a spot that gets filtered sunlight.

Some wall-trained ceanothus varieties can benefit from deadheading to maintain a tidy appearance and promote re-flowering. You can also prune your deciduous ceanothus in early spring for post-flowering shaping and size management. Just make sure not to overdo it, as most varieties do not tolerate hard pruning. 

Conclusion

Ceanothus plants are easy to care for, but at times can still be susceptible to problems that cause their leaves to yellow. The cause is usually linked to improper watering or sunburn, although sometimes the yellowing may just be part of the plant’s natural shedding process. In the latter case, just sit back and let a few leaves drop naturally.

Image: istockphoto.com / Krzysztof Dac

How to Care for Dendrobium Kingianum

Dendrobium kingianum is a popular species of orchid that originated from eastern Australia. It is also known as pink rock orchid, as it is often found growing on rocks. Other names for this orchid are Thelychiton kingianus and Captain King’s dendrobium. Most gardeners grow pink rock orchids for their attractive flowers that emerge on a three-to-six-inch-long raceme. 

If you are curious to learn more about the care requirements for Dendrobium kingianum, this article will provide you with everything you need to know to grow this beautiful orchid.

Dendrobium kingianum care tips

Pink rock orchids can grow and flower vigorously with a bit of care and attention, particularly during the warmer months. Follow the tips discussed below to successfully grow your Dendrobium kingianum:

1. Sunlight requirements

As with other orchids, Dendrobium kingianum flourishes in areas with access to bright sunlight. These ornamentals can also tolerate low lighting, but you might not see them bloom in such conditions. It is highly recommended to plant your pink rock orchids in a garden facing east, west, or south, as these directions tend to have the best sunlight exposure.

One thing to keep in mind, though, is that the afternoon sunlight can be a bit too harsh for these orchids. So, if you live in an area with a hot climate, consider using a shade cloth to protect your plants from such intense heat. 

2. Ideal temperature and humidity

Dendrobium kingianum is comfortable in temperatures between 40 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants are quite tough, however, and have been known to withstand temperatures up to 104 degrees Fahrenheit. 

During the winter season, make sure that your orchids are not exposed to freezing temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Remember that the correct temperature is critical for their growth, and abrupt temperature changes can be very stressful. Consider raising the temperature gradually after the cold weather, especially if they have any flower spikes developing.

As for humidity, pink rock orchids happily thrive in an environment with 50 percent humidity. They can tolerate low humidity too, but you might not see their best growth and blooming under those conditions.

Fortunately, there are many simple methods that can help you improve the humidity in your growing area, one of which is misting. A word of warning, though – you should never mist your plants at night. Damp environments can promote fungal growth and cause unwanted rotting of the leaves and stems. Hence, you should only mist in the morning so that your plants have the entire day for their foliage to dry.

Another tip to raise the humidity is by using a humidifier. This is by far the most efficient and safest way to manage your indoor humidity. Most plants thrive in humidity of 50 to 70 percent, and a humidifier can easily help you reach this level. 

3. Potting mix

Generally, almost any orchid potting mix should suit your Dendrobium kingianum. Several growers also swear by the amazing results of mixing bark and perlite or charcoal and bark, so you might also try one of these. 

Dendrobium kingianum is considered an epiphyte or lithophyte. This simply means that these orchids, in their native habitat, grow on rocks or on another plant. So, instead of having their roots buried in the soil as other ornamentals do, they will be happier when grown in a well-draining medium with plentiful pockets of air. 

4. Watering needs

Water plays an important role in the health and vigorous flowering of your orchids. Ideally, your Dendrobium kingianum should be watered once or twice a week from spring to summer, but this might vary depending on your local climate. Check the potting mix regularly and do not let it get too dry. Increase your watering as needed, particularly during hot spells. 

When watering, make sure the excess water is able to drain thoroughly from the pot. And, for the best results, use rainwater to water your plants. Rainwater is preferable because it is low in minerals and treatment chemicals. Additionally, it is a good source of nitrogen and is slightly acidic, making it a healthier choice to nurture your orchid garden. 

During wintertime, most plants become less active and it is therefore extremely important to reduce your watering to avoid root rot. Also water earlier in the day so that the foliage has plenty of sunlight hours to dry. 

5. Repotting

Pink rock orchids are generally happier when left in a rootbound state. Hence, these plants do not necessarily need frequent repotting, unless the canes no longer have enough space and are about to burst from their containers. 

Although your Dendrobium kingianum does not have a large root system, it might benefit from being repotted every one to two years. However, if the growing medium becomes too soggy, consider repotting it sooner to save it from root rot and other fungal diseases. 

To repot your orchid, carefully untangle the roots and remove the soil debris before transferring it to a new, bigger pot. Make sure that the new container is well-draining and provides plenty of space to accommodate the roots. 

6. Fertilizer

To give your orchids a boost, it is recommended to use a fertilizer rich in phosphorus if you want to encourage flowering. Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen, as these will promote the development of foliage and keikis instead of flowers.

For fully-established pink rock orchids, using a slow-release fertilizer would be more beneficial for a continuous nutrient supply without burning the roots. Feed your orchids during the growing seasons but avoid fertilizing during the colder months. Allowing your plants a resting period over winter will give them a head start for the next flowering season.

Dendrobium kingianum keikis and propagation

Keikis are the babies of an orchid plant. If you are planning to propagate your Dendrobium kingianum, then having a keiki would be desirable. Keep in mind, though, that the production of this baby orchid will likely be at the cost of the blooms, since the mother plant will have to focus its energy on nurturing the keiki. 

Additionally, the development of a keiki could sometimes mean the plant is in distress or dying. So, it all depends on your priorities – if you want your orchids to bloom, you might need to remove the keikis. You should also assess the condition of your plants to ensure that the keiki is a product of a healthy plant and not a dying plant.

To propagate your Dendrobium kingianum, the first step is to nurture the keiki until it grows about three or four roots and a few leaves. Keikis usually take about eight months to a year to grow roots, so patience is key! Sometimes, they might even produce leaves and flowers despite not having roots, and this is normal.

Once your keiki has grown its roots, it is time to separate the plantlet from the parent orchid. Carefully cut the keiki from the mother plant, leaving about one to two inches above and below the keiki’s node. Then plant your keiki in well-draining potting mix that contains bark, perlite, or charcoal. Remember not to place your baby orchids in areas with full and direct sunlight, as you want to protect their leaves from irreversible sun damage.

How big does Dendrobium kingianum get?

Dendrobium kingianum usually grows between six to 12 inches in size and is sometimes considered a weed in the orchid world due to its vigorous growth habit. The size of its flowers can vary between 0.6 to 1.6 inches, and the leaves reach one to four inches long and one inch wide.

Is Dendrobium kingianum fragrant?

Although the flowers of this Dendrobium species vary slightly in shade between pink and purple, they all share a delightful fragrance. The smell of the blooms is comparable to that of lilac, hyacinth, or honey. Unfortunately, the blooms do not last very long but the good news is that Dendrobium kingianum is a perennial so you can expect the plant to flower year after year.

How do you make Dendrobium kingianum bloom?

One thing that frustrates many newbie growers is that they cannot make their Dendrobium kingianum bloom. 

As with all other orchid species, pink rock orchids take time to produce flowers – approximately a year or two. If you do not see any flowers emerging from the stalk, it might be too early to expect blooms. Wait patiently and nurture your plants as advised, and all your hard work will hopefully be rewarded in the next growing season.

Conclusion

As with other orchid species, the care requirements for Dendrobium kingianum include proper sunlight, a well-draining and airy potting mix, correct watering, appropriate temperature and humidity levels, and the odd boost of fertilizer. Keep in mind that these plants might not show their lovely blooms in their first year of growth. But, with your patience and proper nurturing, your pink rock orchids are sure to reciprocate with abundant flowers when the time is right!

Image: istockphoto.com / weisschr

Crocosmias make a wonderful addition to any garden, thanks to their exotic and vivid blooms. But what if your crocosmias are not flowering at all?

This unfortunate situation might make you feel like your gardening efforts have been a failure, but do not worry! In this article, we have summarized the possible reasons your crocosmias are not blooming, as well as what you can do to correct these problems.

How to grow crocosmias

Crocosmia is a deciduous perennial with sword-shaped leaves and trumpet-shaped flowers that come in orange, red, or yellow. These brightly-colored crocosmia flowers are a favorite for landscape borders and flower beds, blooming from mid-summer to fall. Once the blooming period is over, their mid-green foliage becomes the center of attention, from fall to spring. 

Perhaps you are attracted to the exotic aesthetic of crocosmias and want to grow some in your garden. But, as with other ornamentals, the beauty of these blooms comes with certain requirements. Your crocosmias will want moderately fertile soil that is slightly moist and well-draining. The addition of mulch will also be beneficial for these plants to retain soil moisture, especially during the hot season. Mulch can also enrich the soil without the use of fertilizer.

Moisture is of utmost importance for these plants, so do not forget to water them whenever the soil starts to dry. However, make sure to avoid overwatering as this can damage the roots. During the cold months, limit your watering and consider adding mulch to protect the soil from freezing temperatures. 

Another factor to keep in mind is the amount of sunlight your crocosmias need. These beauties prefer to get a daily dose of full sunlight in order to flower vigorously. They can also survive well in partial shade, but may not grow and flower as healthily as those that receive lots of sunshine. To help your plants grow to their full potential, make sure to grow them in a sunny spot that faces east, south, or west.

If you want to grow your crocosmias in a flower bed, it is highly recommended to plant them in a group of 12. Crocosmias typically grow in clumps, and by grouping them you can achieve a great display of flowers and foliage during the summer. 

Some crocosmia cultivars can be invasive, especially as they become more established, and will compete for soil nutrients and water. For this reason, try to plant them about six to eight inches apart and at least 20 inches away from other plants. 

Lastly, make sure to keep your flower beds free from weeds, as they might interfere with your crocosmias’ rhizomes.

Why is my crocosmia not flowering?

1. Too much fertilizer

Overfertilizing is by far the most likely reason your crocosmias are not producing blooms. 

As you might know, fertilizer is essential for lush, healthy foliage. But this comes at the expense of flowers, especially if the fertilizer has a high nitrogen content. Your crocosmia will grow bushier and greener, but with few to no flowers. 

Additionally, crocosmias are not heavy feeders. In their natural habitat, these perennials grow in moderately fertile, well-draining soil. They are also known to survive and even bloom in poor rocky soils in South Africa. Hence, feeding them excessive amounts of fertilizer is almost unnecessary.

If you have overfertilized your crocosmias, it might be a little late to expect them to flower in the same year. But you can correct the issues to ensure that they produce their beautiful blossoms in the following year. Here is what you need to do:

• First, amend the soil around your plant by adding manure, compost, or leaf mold. These organic materials will not only enrich the soil but also improve aeration.

• Reduce your fertilizer if you want the plants to flower vigorously. Fertilizers, especially those high in nitrogen, are only beneficial for the leaves. Crocosmias generally do not need a lot of fertilizer to produce abundant flowers.

• Add mulch into the soil, especially during the hot summer months, to keep it moist.

• Do not be dismayed if you have applied too much fertilizer as your crocosmias will likely grow taller and bushier despite the reduced blooming. It is advised to cut them back six weeks before their expected flowering season to manage their size and promote branching. By the next growing season, you should see your plants produce healthier leaves and plenty of blooms.

2. Lack of sunlight

Their location and the amount of sunlight received by your crocosmias can greatly impact their ability to flower.

Crocosmias can grow in partial shade, but they flower best in full, direct sunlight. That said, exposing them to extreme heat for prolonged periods can burn their leaves. If you live in an area with a hot climate, make sure to plant your crocosmias in a cooler location with filtered sunlight. Do not place them anywhere too shady, though, as this will turn the leaves pale and discourage flowering.

Consider adding mulch to keep the soil cool and prevent excessive dryness, especially during the summer. Mulching helps reduce the amount of moisture lost via evaporation, so that you do not have to water your plants as frequently.

3. Water stress

Usually, crocosmias need to be watered thoroughly once a week. This will keep their soil slightly moist and create favorable conditions for flowering. 

Keep in mind, though, that your plants’ watering needs may vary depending on your local weather conditions. During the dry seasons, you may need to increase your watering a bit to keep your plants well-hydrated. Checking the soil regularly will also help you understand your plants’ moisture needs. A soil moisture probe is your best friend to prevent under- or overwatering, but if you don’t have one, feeling the top two inches of the soil with your finger also works.

Again, to prevent water stress, consider adding mulch to prevent the soil from drying too quickly, especially if you live in a hot area. 

4. Crocosmias do not flower in the first year

If, after carefully reviewing your plant care routine, you cannot seem to find any issues, then perhaps it is too early to expect flowers from your crocosmias. Check your calendar – when did you plant them? If the plants are less than a year old, you might need to wait until the next growing season to see their lovely flowers. 

Crocosmia plants do not necessarily produce flowers in their first year. They also need a bit of time to acclimatize to a new environment. So be patient and give your plants the time they need to bloom, especially if you bought them from a greenhouse or your local nursery. Your garden might have different conditions to those of their previous environment, and this can be stressful for them.

In general, crocosmias are not fussy when it comes to their plant care requirements. However, they do need at least a year to fully establish and adapt to their new home before they can flower abundantly.

In what month does crocosmia bloom?

Fully established crocosmias usually bloom from around July up to September; they will keep producing flowers throughout the summer. These perennials are greatly admired for their showy, brightly-colored flowers, which add a tropical vibe to any landscape. 

Crocosmia flowers grow on slender stems that are about two feet in length. Limit your pruning if you are expecting the plants to bloom; instead, cut back the flower stems in November, after the blooming season is over.

Do crocosmias flower every year?

Crocosmias are considered perennials in USDA zones five to nine, meaning that you can expect your plants to bloom year after year. 

As mentioned previously, though, crocosmias might not produce flowers during their first year of growth. Patience is key. Continue nurturing your plants until they become well-established, and you will be rewarded with spectacular blooms every year.

How do I get my crocosmias to bloom?

Growing crocosmias for the first time can be intimidating for an inexperienced grower. But, as you begin to better understand their growing requirements, you will realize that they are not that difficult to care for after all! Just remember these basics to succeed in growing your crocosmia flowers:

• Plant your crocosmias in areas with access to full sunlight.
• Keep your soil in check. Crocosmias bloom best if their soil is consistently moist but never soggy.
• You do not need to fertilize these plants. Crocosmias can grow happily just with some mulch.
• Use a well-draining compost. 
• Crocosmias can tolerate a soil pH between 6.5 to 7.5.
• Cut back the flower stems after your plants are done flowering. This will promote a new set of healthy flowers in the next season.

Additionally, it is best not to cut back the foliage during the fall. However, if the leaves have turned brown and your crocosmias look a bit untidy, you can gradually snip off some of the leaves and use them as mulch in the late fall. Mulching will help insulate the bulbs from freezing temperatures and keep the soil fertile, ensuring that your crocosmias are ready for vigorous growth in the next blooming season.

Conclusion

Crocosmia plants may not bloom for a variety of reasons, including a lack of soil moisture or inadequate sunlight. Overall, however, these plants are not fussy about their growing requirements – unlike many other flowering ornamentals. Hence, it should not be so difficult to fix the problem if your crocosmia is not flowering. 

Get your soil’s moisture level right, give your plants lots of sunlight, add mulch, and know the right time to prune. In most cases, these are all the basics you will ever need to help your crocosmias bloom abundantly. With proper care, your flower-bare crocosmia will surely bounce back with plenty of blooms next season!

Image: istockphoto.com / PAVEL IARUNICHEV

Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow is a popular evergreen subshrub loved for its variegated foliage and unique greenish flowers with tiny, colorful petals. This variety of euphorbia is also known as Euphorbia x martinii, or Martin’s spurge.

Euphorbias, in general, are considered tough and fairly easy to grow. However, certain undesirable growing conditions can make them vulnerable to fungal diseases, causing discoloration and damage to their foliage. If your Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow is dying, it is most likely due to the fungal species Rhizoctonia or Fusarium, or due to sunburn. 

Let us discuss how to detect these issues and what solutions are available to save your plant.

Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow turning brown and dying

Browning foliage and stems is a common sign of plant distress. There are several underlying issues that can induce this discoloration, as listed below:

1. Corking

Corking is a natural process in plants, wherein the outer layer of the plant’s skin or epidermis is replaced. The affected plant parts tend to display brown discoloration and thickened outer layers. 

It is generally undesirable for euphorbias to develop corking, but know that this condition is not a sign of disease or pest infestation. More often than not, it is a part of your euphorbia’s aging process and should not be a cause for serious concern. 

There is no treatment available to stop or prevent corking, and unfortunately the condition might alter your plant’s beautiful appearance. But give it enough time to heal and your lovely plant might be able to replace the damaged tissue.

2. Sunburn

Euphorbia comes in several stunning varieties, some of which have variegated white stripes while others have yellowish stripes on their bright green leaves. Rest assured, however, that no healthy euphorbia leaves, regardless of the variety, have brown spots or discolorations on them.

Brown spots on the leaves are typically signs of sunburn. Also known as leaf scorch or sunscald, sunburn is the negative result of abrupt exposure to full sunlight. 

So, if you are planning to move an indoor plant outside, or if you have just brought home a new plant from the store, remember that proper acclimatization is important to protect it from sudden light or temperature changes. The right way to go about it is to start by placing your euphorbia in a slightly brighter location for a few hours each day, and gradually increase its sunlight exposure over a few weeks. You can also use a shade of cloth or umbrella to protect your plant until it is ready to face the full sunlight.

3. Rhizoctonia disease

Rhizoctonia stem rot is most prevalent in euphorbias that are constantly exposed to moist and humid environments. The disease is caused by the soil-borne fungus Rhizoctonia solani, and causes stem lesions, root rot, and crown rot in infected plants. 

Hot temperatures ranging from 70 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit, combined with moderate moisture, are the most favorable conditions for this pathogen to thrive. Frequent misting, a lack of airflow, and close spacing between plants can soon result in brown webbing on the stems and open wounds on the plant.

The browning and limpness of the plant in the early stages of the disease are often mistaken for the signs of an underwatering problem. Without the proper diagnosis, an inexperienced gardener might react by watering the plant more, thereby causing further rotting and fungal growth. As the infection progresses, the brown lesions will become increasingly larger until the entire stem collapses.

Fungicide drenches are your best weapon to suppress or reduce the progression of Rhizoctonia disease. Applying solutions that contain bacillus bacterium, in conjunction with proper care and preventive measures, can go a long way to treating and preventing the incidence of Rhizoctonia. 

4. Fusarium rot

Similar to Rhizoctonia disease, Fusarium rot is another fungal infection that causes stem and root rot in euphorbias. Aside from brown discolorations and lesions, the affected plant will also wilt, drop its leaves prematurely, and possibly die.

There are several fungal pathogens that cause Fusarium disease, the most common ones being Fusarium solani and Fusarium oxysporum. These pathogens infect plants by entering through an open wound caused by pest infestation or physical damage. If you are not careful, the infection can quickly spread through contaminated soil and unsterilized gardening tools.

Your best chance of winning against Fusarium rot is by establishing proper gardening practices and hygiene. As with other fungal diseases, avoid overwatering as well as leaving the stems and foliage wet for long periods. Instead of misting, use a humidifier to improve the humidity in your indoor garden. 

Unfortunately, there are no known chemical fungicides that can eradicate these fungal pathogens.

5. Plant dormancy

The browning of euphorbia leaves does not always mean your plant is dying. It could also be that your plant has gone dormant for the winter season. In this case, it is simply reserving its energy to survive the harsh weather conditions. Most of its metabolic activities will come to a halt and the dormant plant will allow some of its leaves to brown.

Since dormancy is considered normal, there is nothing much you can do but wait for the mild weather to return. Limit your watering and avoid fertilizing your plant as the roots will be less likely to absorb and use all the nutrients. Once the cold months are over, your euphorbia should return to its former glory.

6. Normal aging

If your euphorbia has received all the right care and there are no apparent underlying issues that could be causing the browning leaves, then perhaps the discoloration is linked to the plant’s aging process. If this is the cause, the browning is more likely to occur on the older, lower leaves of the plant. Along with browning and yellowing leaves, you might also notice your euphorbia dropping a few leaves. In this case, the symptoms are considered normal and expected. 

Mature plants have indeterminate growth, meaning they will likely continue growing and producing new leaves for as long as the conditions are right for them. So, let the old leaves drop naturally and they will be soon replaced with new, healthier growth.

Other signs to look out for

A potentially dying plant will not only display brown leaves. Your Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow can show several other symptoms of distress, and it is critical to understand these so that you can pinpoint and correct any issues.

Check out the signs below, and from there you should be equipped to know when your lovely ornamental needs to be rescued:

1. Euphorbia leaves turning yellow

Yellowing leaves are often related to water stress. Aside from the unsightly discoloration, you might also notice your plant shriveling and wilting as a result of extreme dehydration. 

Watering your Ascot Rainbow roughly once a week is ideal to keep it hydrated. Watch the soil condition as well, especially during the hot and dry season, as you might need to increase watering at this time. You can use a soil probe to test the moisture level of the soil from time to time, to keep your watering in check.

Other factors that trigger yellowing are:

• Frost
• Poorly-draining soil or pot
• Too much fertilizer

2. Dropping and wilting leaves

Dropping and wilting leaves are another classic sign of an underwatered euphorbia. All plants need water to keep their stems and leaves turgid, so do not leave your euphorbia too dry for too long. When you water, do so thoroughly and deeply to keep the soil moist for several days. Just be careful not to overwater, though, as waterlogged soil can be bad for the roots and increase the risk of fungal infections.

3. Euphorbia not flowering

Euphorbias may not flower for a number of reasons, but this does not mean your plant is doomed. More often than not, the lack of flowers is linked to watering issues, lack of sunlight, or temperature stress. 

Hence, to encourage flowering, make sure that the right growing conditions are met. Euphorbias generally thrive in bright light – preferably about three to four hours of direct sunlight exposure each day. The soil must be well-draining and lightly moist (but never watery). Temperature-wise, most euphorbias are happy within the range of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

Lastly, fertilize your evergreens from spring through fall. Dilute the fertilizer to half-strength to prevent root burn.

How do you revive a dying euphorbia?

Reviving a dying Ascot Rainbow might seem an impossible mission. Often, it is easier to just discard the plant and start over with a new one.

But do not lose heart – rescuing a dying plant is often completely possible if the underlying issue is detected at an early stage. Time is of utmost importance and your quick response will go a long way to preventing further damage and reviving your euphorbia.

Here are some helpful tips to get your plant back to its healthy state:

• Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow is most often killed by fungal diseases such as root rot and stem rot. There is no quick fix when it comes to eradicating this kind of disease, but with patience and proper care your plant can recover. As mentioned previously, your best chance at fighting off the fungus is through the use of fungicides. Do your research well, as there are many fungicides available on the market.
• Provide your plant with the best care possible. That includes proper lighting, adequate watering, moderate fertilizer, correct temperature and humidity, and well-draining soil.
• Remember that the effectiveness of fungicides can only be maximized in conjunction with proper gardening practices. This includes sterilizing your gardening tools, proper spacing between plants, and not leaving their foliage wet overnight.
• Protect your plants from potential injuries, as open wounds create entry points for fungal pathogens.
• Avoid soil contact with your plants and containers as this could spread soil-borne fungi.

Conclusion

As with other ornamental plants, your Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow can be vulnerable to fungal infections if it is not properly nurtured. And, as the saying goes, prevention is better than cure. So do not wait for Rhizoctonia and Fusarium diseases to attack your plants. Follow proper gardening hygiene and establish preventative measures to keep your lovely evergreens healthy and thriving!

Image: istockphoto.com / John Caley

Finally, the orchid you have spent so long nurturing has produced a keiki! And now, you are anticipating the production of tiny new roots on this little offshoot.

Fast forward a short time and, despite your best care, your baby orchid is growing new leaves but still there is no signs of new roots. Why is that?

So, is it normal for an orchid keiki to have no roots? How long does it take for a keiki to grow roots? Let us find out!

How orchids produce offspring

Perhaps, just when you were about to prune the flower spikes off your orchid, you suddenly noticed tiny new leaves forming there. This should make you very happy, because it means your beautiful orchid is producing a baby. 

The new growth you are seeing is referred to as a keiki, which is a Hawaiian word for “baby” or “child”. Keikies are produced by mature orchids through the process of asexual propagation, resulting in an exact clone of the mother plant.

The orchids’ asexual reproduction is achieved in this instance through the accumulation of growth hormones at the plant’s node. Sometimes, growers actually induce the production of keikies by applying a concentrated growth hormone, called keiki paste, to the node of the flower spike.

Not all keikis, however, are produced through healthy growth and an abundance of growth hormones. Sometimes, orchids under extreme stress will produce keikis in an attempt to save their species. The mother plant will use all of its remaining energy to produce a beautiful flower and a keiki before it finally expires.

More often than not, it can be a bit challenging to know whether a keiki is the result of excess hormones or plant stress. So do not be too complacent – check for signs of issues in your orchids, as well as their growing conditions. Are your plants getting the appropriate temperature, humidity, sunlight, fertilizer, and watering? It is also important to check the potting medium. Orchids might have a large and devoted fan-base, but these beautiful blooms are known for being fussy and challenging to grow. 

Once you are confident that your plants are well-nurtured and growing healthily, then you can celebrate your new keiki.

No roots on orchid keiki – is it normal?

Newbie growers are understandably baffled if their keikis do not have any roots despite producing a few leaves. 

However, be reassured that keikis do, in fact, produce some roots. It might just take a long time for their roots to show up. When a keiki first develops on the mother plant, its growth is mainly focused on producing a few leaves. These leaves can grow up to four inches long, but despite this you might still not see any roots, and this is normal. 

Keikis grow roots at a very slow speed, and you might see well-developed leaves and blooms before any roots appear. You just need to be patient – your keikis will sprout roots when they are ready!

How long does an orchid keiki take to grow roots?

On average, a keiki takes about eight months to send out roots. Some might even take over a year! This is absolutely normal, as baby orchids tend to focus their energy on foliage before roots.

Keep in mind, though, that keikis’ roots will only grow for as long as the mother plant is actively growing, which is usually in the spring and summer seasons. Like most houseplants, orchids go through a dormant stage during winter, so you should not expect any root growth at this time. So, if you are wondering about your keiki’s roots, also check the parent plant to know if it is actively growing at the moment. One way to tell is the presence of active roots that look like tentacles along the plant’s stems.

How do I root my keiki orchid?

Nothing gives an orchid grower greater joy than to see their keikis finally growing a few roots. But the journey to this point is not always easy, since orchids are known to be tough to care for and can be unpredictable. Some gardeners might try misting, improving the lighting conditions, or even not watering the mother plant, just to induce the growth of roots on their baby orchids. Still, none of these is guaranteed to work.

Fortunately, there are a few tricks that have proved effective to hasten the growth of keiki roots. Consider trying the tips below to see if they work on your plants:

• Moisten a cotton ball or sphagnum moss and wrap it around the base of your orchid’s keiki. Secure the material using a rubber band. Check your keikies every now and then, and hydrate the base with a few drops of water whenever it starts to become dry. However, make sure not to overdo the watering to prevent rotting and fungal growth.

• Use an auxin-based rooting hormone, preferably in the form of seaweed or kelp extract, to encourage cell division and root growth. Add a small drop of the extract to the cotton ball or moss attached to the keiki’s base.

• Avoid using keiki paste if you are aiming for root growth. Keiki paste contains cytokinin hormone which is mainly used to stimulate shoot growth, rather than roots.

• Once the mother plant stops blooming, you can remove the flower spike and cut back about an inch from where the baby orchid has grown. Pruning after the flowering phase is over will help the parent orchid to focus its energy on the little keiki. 

• Lastly, keep in mind that patience is key when it comes to growing your keikis. Let the baby orchid grow healthily and happily and, in its own time, it will start putting out its roots.

When to separate a keiki from the parent orchid

An orchid keiki can be separated from its mother plant once it has grown a total of three inches of roots. This could mean three roots, each an inch long, or one single root with a length of three inches. Usually, this length can be reached in one to one-and-a-half years, starting from the keiki’s first growth.

Never remove the keiki from the parent plant too early, otherwise the baby orchid could die. The plantlet needs to have several leaves and strong roots so that it can survive on its own.

If you think your keiki is ready to be removed and repotted, follow these steps:

• Using a sterilized pair of cutters, cut the spike about an inch above and below where the keiki is attached. Carefully cut the tissue at the base of the plantlet. Do not twist the keiki with your fingers or you may damage it.

• After cutting the keiki from the parent, sprinkle the wound of both the keiki and the parent plant with cinnamon. This will help prevent fungal infections from developing on the open wounds.

• Soak the keiki roots in clean water for about ten minutes to help soften them before potting them.

• Place the new plant in a small pot, preferably about three inches wide. The pot should have drainage holes and not be too large for the keiki. If it is too big, it will take longer for the potting mix to dry after each watering, thus increasing the risk of root rot.

• Finally, fill the pot with a soil mix designed for orchids. Depending on the orchid variety, a potting mix made of vermiculite, sphagnum moss, perlite, and shredded bark should work wonders for your new plant.

Once your baby orchid is all set, make sure to protect it from harsh direct sunlight. Gradually introduce it to its new environment until it becomes well-acclimatized. You can slowly increase its light exposure once it starts showing signs of growth.

Keikis usually take about two to three years to produce their first flowers, sometimes over the course of a year, depending on the variety. Hence, patience is key!

Can an orchid keiki without roots be saved?

There are many instances when a keiki is separated from its mother plant before it has developed a few healthy roots. The reason could be due to an accident, physical damage, or the parent plant is simply too sick to support the plantlet. Sometimes, the parent plant has died before the keiki can grow its own roots.

If a parent plant is sick but has a chance of bouncing back, then removing the keiki is the best thing to do to save both parent and keiki. However, if the sick parent plant is not showing any healthy roots and leaves and its survival is unlikely, then only the baby orchid can be saved.

So, is there hope for an orchid keiki to survive without roots? The answer is yes, provided the plantlet has grown a few healthy leaves and is a few months old. However, caring for a fragile baby orchid with no roots involves intensive care. If you do not have the knowledge and experience, it may well die.

Caring for a rootless orchid keiki requires constant monitoring and adequate moisture around the base of the plant. Let it sit on moist sphagnum moss until it starts to grow roots, and remember that the moss must be damp at all times – but never watery, to prevent rotting. The “sphag and bag” method works, too. To do this, simply place your keiki in a bag of moist moss to encourage growth.

With proper care, your orchid keiki should start showing signs of growth after about a month.

Conclusion

Orchid keikis generally take a lot of time to produce roots. During their early stages of growth, the root system is not given top priority; instead, you will see the baby plants producing foliage and, sometimes, a few blooms, despite not having roots.

But do not worry – your keiki should send out roots at the right time, which is typically about a year. All you need to do is continue nurturing both the mother and baby plant until they are ready to be separated. 

Image: istockphoto.com / aLittleSilhouetto

Many gardeners the world over love clivias for their deep green foliage and vibrant, trumpet-shaped flowers, which make a great antidote to a lifeless indoor space.

When these tropical evergreens turn yellow, however, it can be worrying to say the least. This unsightly discoloration detracts from the beauty and vigor of the plants and, more often than not, is indicative of an underlying issue that needs correcting right away. Such issues include sunburn, root rot, leaf spot, and pest infestation.

Let us explore these issues one by one and learn how to help your clivia bounce back to life.

How to troubleshoot yellowing clivia leaves

Clivia leaves may turn yellow for numerous reasons. Before you panic, it is critical to understand your plants’ symptoms so that you can correctly diagnose the issue. 

Have a look below at the different patterns of leaf yellowing that may occur, to help you confirm the underlying issue:

1. Whole leaves turning yellow

Yellowing of the entire leaf is often a classic sign of sunburn. Clivias need moderate or partial sunlight to grow healthily; direct sunlight can be too harsh for their delicate leaves, particularly during the summer season. To correct this issue, all you have to do is relocate your plants to a shadier area. 

However, if your clivias are receiving the correct lighting levels and you cannot seem to find the cause of the yellowed leaves, then perhaps your plants have entered their dormancy period. At this point, they are taking a rest to survive the freezing winter temperatures, and you need not worry – they should bounce back to life as soon as the milder weather returns.

2. Edges or tips of leaves turning yellow

Root rot disease can cause yellow leaves, too – particularly on the tips or around the edges. Aside from the leaf discolorations, a plant with root rot might also struggle with dieback of the stems and foliage. Since rotten roots can compromise a plant’s nutrient uptake, your clivias will eventually lose their vigor and start falling over. 

Check the soil – does it look soggy? If so, there is a good chance you are dealing with root rot. Stop watering your plants for a couple of days to allow the soil to dry completely. You may also need to replant your clivia in fresh, well-draining soil to prevent the rot from progressing any further. While doing so, make sure to trim off any dead roots and apply a fungicide to eradicate the fungal pathogens.

Overwatering and poor drainage can both promote root rot disease. Keep in mind that clivias should only be watered about once a week – just enough to keep the soil moist but not watery. Increase this only if the soil dries up very quickly, such as when the weather is unusually hot and dry. Also avoid using compacted soil and pots without drainage holes.

3. Yellow spots on the leaves

Unsightly yellow or brown spots on the leaf surface can be caused by leaf spot disease or pest infestation. To make matters worse, these spots will grow over time if left untreated, eventually engulfing entire leaves until they die and fall off.

Leaf spot is very common among ornamental plants. The majority of cases are caused by fungal pathogens, while a few are linked to bacterial infections. These spots often look like brownish or dark rings that can enlarge and form lesions. Clivia plants affected with leaf spot disease can also develop yellow leaves that drop prematurely.

Pests like aphids and scale insects are destructive to almost any garden plant, including clivias. Aside from yellow leaves, the attacked plant may also display distorted growth, drooping leaves, and sticky brown spots or webbing on the leaves’ surface.

Both leaf spot disease and pest infestations can negatively impact the health of your plants. Once the underlying issue is confirmed, you will need to control the issue by applying the appropriate treatment.

For leaf spot, we recommend using fungicides formulated for houseplants. Organic solutions are also available if you do not like using synthetic chemicals. The most common remedy for fungal leaf spot is baking soda. To use, simply mix a half teaspoon of baking soda per gallon of water, and spray the mixture on the affected leaves.

For pest infestations, there are a variety of organic solutions available to kill the bugs without harming your plants. These include neem oil, horticultural oil, and insecticidal soap. If the infestation is small, you can quickly dislodge the pests from the leaves with a strong jet of water. Try to avoid using harsh pesticides unless the infestation is too severe, as these are toxic and can kill beneficial insects.

4. Older leaves at the bottom turn yellow

If your clivias are producing yellow leaves near the base of the plant, then it is likely due to normal aging. All plants go through this process. Eventually, the older leaves will die or shed, giving way to new growth. In this case, the yellowing of the leaves should not cause you any concern. Continue nurturing your clivias and prune them as needed, and your plants are sure to reciprocate your love and care with lush healthy growth.

Can yellow leaves be reversed?

Yellow leaves are generally a sign of plant stress or damage. Once the leaves lose their healthy green color, in most cases it cannot be restored. The plant will simply abandon the damaged leaf to focus its energy on new growth. 

However, it is possible for some leaves to return to green if the issue is related to nutrient deficiency and the appropriate fix is applied.

Yellow leaves are generally pruned or allowed to fall off so that younger leaves can start to grow. Just keep in mind that a few yellow leaves do not necessarily mean your clivias are doomed or dying. With the proper diagnosis, you should be able to address the underlying issue and return your clivias to their former verdant glory.

What to do when clivia leaves turn yellow

Time is of utmost importance when it comes to saving your plants from further damage. Here are a few steps you can take as soon as you notice your clivia leaves turning yellow:

• First, try to confirm whether the issue is related to overwatering or poor drainage. Assess the dryness or dampness of the soil using your finger or a soil moisture probe. From here, you should be able to correct your watering routine and save your plant from potential fungal diseases.
• Boost your plants’ nutrition by adding nitrogen-rich fertilizer to the soil. Make sure to fertilize only when the plants are actively growing, and avoid feeding them during their dormant season.
• Using a clean pair of pruning shears or scissors, prune away the yellowed leaves to promote new, healthy growth. Discard the damaged leaves and stems, and do so particularly carefully if the plants are infected with a fungal disease.

Conclusion

Yellowing clivia leaves are generally a sign of sunburn, overwatering, pest infestation, or fungal disease. It is important to identify the underlying issue so that you can apply the appropriate solution. 

Sometimes, the yellowing leaves could simply indicate that your plants are currently dormant, or they could be a part of the plants’ natural aging process. Both of these states are normal and hence should not cause serious concern. Nurture your plants as usual, and you will be rewarded with lush foliage and abundant flowers.

So be sure to familiarize yourself with the plant’s growing needs as well as the potential issues. It might take some time and patience but, at the end of the day, seeing your clivias grow and bloom beautifully will make everything worth the sacrifice.

Image: istockphoto.com / ByronOrtizA

If you are the proud owner of a honeysuckle plant, you surely look forward to seeing its spectacular blooms every spring! But things might not always go as expected, especially if your plant is not growing under the right conditions to promote flowering.

If you are wondering why your honeysuckle is not flowering, we might have the answer for you here. Plants that fail to bloom when they should are often over-pruned or are not getting adequate sunlight, water, or soil nutrients. Read on to learn how to correct these issues and boost your plant’s flowering in the next season.

In what month do honeysuckles bloom?

The most exciting part of growing honeysuckles is witnessing their lovely clusters of flowers bursting from their branches. 

Depending on the variety, honeysuckles typically bloom from June until September or October. Certain cultivars of this plant are classified according to their time of flowering – some can bloom in early spring, while others might flower in mid or late spring.

If you live in a warmer zone, however, then you are especially in luck, as your honeysuckle will likely bloom all year round. 

Why is my honeysuckle not flowering?

1. Pruning at the wrong time

Pruning your honeysuckle in winter or early spring will hinder its flowering process. 

Honeysuckles do not produce their flowers from new growth; these plants only bloom once they reach full maturity. Most varieties tend to flower on side shoots from the previous growing season. So, if you prune them too early – in spring, for example – you will also eliminate their flowers. 

While pruning your honeysuckle annually can be beneficial, pruning too heavily will only stimulate the growth of foliage at the expense of flowers. If your goal is to achieve vigorous blooms, it is best to limit or avoid cutting back the growth that will support the flowers in the next blooming season.

2. Lack of sunlight

Honeysuckles are sun-loving plants. In their natural habitat, the vining varieties tend to climb up trees or hedgerows to get the optimum levels of sunlight to thrive. If your honeysuckle is dropping leaves and failing to produce flowers, it is possibly receiving less light than it needs.

Honeysuckles that are grown in too much shade can produce significantly fewer flowers, and the plants may also die back. To achieve a good display of flowers, make sure you plant yours in a sunny location with moist soil. It will happily flower in partial sunlight, too. 

You may also consider trimming the branches of nearby trees that cast shade on your honeysuckle in the garden. Alternatively, you might need to transplant it to a brighter location. Whatever works best for you – just make sure that your plant is getting a good dose of sunshine daily to produce abundant flowers. 

3. Too much fertilizer

Honeysuckles thrive in soil that is rich in organic matter. While frequent applications of fertilizer can promote bushier growth of the foliage, too much fertilizer can also hinder the flowering process, especially if you are using a fertilizer high in nitrogen.

Excess nitrogen that has washed away from a nearby treated lawn or garden can also significantly affect the flowering of your plant. Unfortunately, once the fertilizer has been absorbed, it is probably too late – the flowers are unlikely to bloom and you will have to wait for the next growing season.

4. Lack of nutrients

While too much fertilizer can limit the flowering process, so can a lack of nutrients. In their native habitat, honeysuckles thrive in woodland soil where they receive a steady supply of nutrients from leaf litter and other organic matter. Hence, these conditions must be emulated to achieve the best display of flowers.

Enriching the soil with mulch and other organic fertilizers is especially important if your honeysuckle is grown in a pot, in sandy soil, or near other plants or trees that are competing for soil nutrients. The addition of organic matter can also help retain moisture and improve soil aeration, both of which are important factors for flowering.

For best results, consider using a slow-release fertilizer like Miracle-Gro granules, so that the nutrients are available for longer without burning the honeysuckle’s roots. Also apply mulch around the base of the plant to guarantee an abundance of flowers in the next season.

5. Dry soil

Moist soil is a very important requirement if you want to succeed in growing a happily-flowering honeysuckle. As mentioned previously, these flowering vines and shrubs do best in consistently damp (but never watery) soil, just like in their native habitat. 

However, several conditions can quickly turn the soil bone-dry. If your honeysuckle is moisture-deprived, it could be due to one of the following reasons:

• Using garden soil that is too stony or sandy. Loose soil structures do not hold water very well and might lead to excessive dryness, especially during the hotter seasons.
• Planting your honeysuckle near other plants or trees that compete for moisture.
• Exposing the soil to too much sunlight, the heat of which can quickly evaporate the soil’s moisture and dry out the plant’s roots. The stress caused to your plant by these conditions can hinder its flower production.
• Growing your honeysuckle in a pot. By saying this, it does not mean you cannot succeed in growing this plant in containers. Just keep in mind, though, that most pots are designed to be well-draining. This means that potted honeysuckles will have higher watering demands than those planted in the ground. Additionally, consider using a larger pot to accommodate more soil and thus more moisture for the roots.

6. Not fully established

If you have taken all the right steps to nurture your honeysuckle and still it has failed to bloom, it could be that your plant has not yet reached the flowering stage of its life. 

Honeysuckles generally take about two to three years to become fully established. Once they reach maturity and all of their required growing conditions are met, only then will you witness their spectacular and prolific flowers.

Why are my honeysuckle’s flowers falling off?

We all love honeysuckle for its fragrant, tubular flowers, so it goes without saying that we do not want to lose these hard-earned blooms when they arrive!

There are two common reasons your honeysuckle flowers may be dropping – drought stress and pest infestation.

Drought stress can be a result of underwatering or using sandy soil. So, if you notice the flower buds falling off your honeysuckle, do check your watering habits as well as the type of soil your plant is growing in. 

Too much sun exposure can also lead to increased transpiration in plants, causing their much-needed moisture to evaporate too quickly. If this is the case, you might need to consider relocating your plant to a cooler spot with filtered sunlight, particularly on hot summer days.

Pest infestation is another possible culprit behind your plant’s bud or flower loss. Insects like aphids and thrips feed on the plant’s leaves and petals until they become dry and disfigured. Eventually, the plant will lose its vigor, drop its flowers, and stop producing new leaves and buds. 

Nobody wants to deal with pests – they are destructive not only for your honeysuckle, but for the entire garden. Thankfully, there are organic solutions available to help you deal with infestations, including neem oil and insecticidal soaps. As much as possible, avoid using harsh chemicals as these solutions can also harm the beneficial pollinators in your garden.

How to get honeysuckles to bloom

Honeysuckles can only produce abundant flowers when their ideal growing conditions have been met. With that in mind, it is helpful to understand your plant’s native habitat – a bit of research will go a long way toward caring for your beautiful perennial. 

Here are some growing tips you can follow to ensure abundant flowers on your honeysuckle in the next blooming season:

• Fertilize your honeysuckle at least once a year, preferably in early spring or before new growth begins. There are many types of fertilizer you can use for this plant, so do some research, use your best judgment and follow the prescribed dosage. One option is an all-purpose fertilizer with a balanced NPK ratio, such as a 20-20-20 or 16-16-16.

• Do not let the soil become too dry before watering your plant again. Drought stress can hinder the flowering process, so make sure to keep your honeysuckle well-hydrated at all times. Make it a habit to check the soil regularly using your finger or a soil probe to know the best time to water your plant.

• Honeysuckles come in different varieties, each with its own unique characteristics and growth habits. Some cultivars might also bloom in a different season, or when certain growing conditions are met. With that in mind, make sure to choose one that is suited to your garden or decor purposes.  

Conclusion

If your honeysuckle is not blooming, it probably has something to do with hard pruning, drought stress, or soil nutrient issues. If you are a beginner gardener, it may be a good idea to do some thorough research to get a better understanding of your plant’s basic care requirements. Learn the optimal growing conditions for your chosen honeysuckle variety, and when the time comes you will be rewarded with an abundance of beautiful blooms!

Image: istockphoto.com / Ildar Imashev

Catnip, also known as catswort or catmint, is a popular garden herb often used to make tea. And not only that; this herbaceous perennial is also well-loved by cats! Thanks to its active ingredient, nepetalactone, one whiff of the plant can give your furry friends a sense of euphoria. This is why you often see viral online videos of cats going crazy on catnip.

If you are growing catnip in your garden, it is probably because you and your feline friends enjoy the taste and scent of this lovely herb. But what if your catnip suddenly develops white spots? 

White spots on catnip leaves are often indicators of a pest infestation. But do not worry – these sturdy herbs should recover quite easily with a bit of extra care and attention. Read on to learn what causes these unsightly white spots, and the best way to get rid of them!

What causes white spots on catnip leaves?

White spots on catnip leaves are a sign of damage to the leaf surface. Check out the common culprits below to determine the appropriate solutions to revive your plant:

1. Spider mites

Spider mites are insects that resemble miniature spiders. They are white or almost transparent, and often difficult to identify because of their tiny size. However, you can confirm their presence by the web-like structures they leave on the underside of your catnip’s leaves.

The early stages of a spider mite infestation cause just a few white spots on your catnip leaves. Since the pests can reproduce quickly, however, these white spots can become denser and engulf your catnip plants in a matter of weeks. Spider mites damage the plants by sucking the sap from the leaves, and without your prompt intervention, these sap-suckers will slowly weaken and even kill your plants.

2. Thrips

Just like spider mites, thrips suck the life from your catnip’s leaves until they turn dry and white. At first glance, these tiny insects look like dark slivers, or sewing needles, and are so small that you can barely see them with the naked eye. But, with the help of a magnifying glass, you will see that these pests actually look like tiny lobsters! Depending on the variety, some thrips might be black or brown, while others are orange or golden in color.

Aside from leaving white spots on your catnip’s leaves, thrips are also carriers of viruses that can infect multiple plant species. These fringe-winged insects are also capable of flying to other nearby plants. Thus, if you suspect your catnip is infested with thrips, the plant must be isolated right away to prevent any spread of the infestation.

3. Sunscald

Catnip that develops white leaf spots despite being pest-free is likely struggling with sunscald. Check the area where your plants are growing and see whether they are constantly exposed to very harsh sunlight. 

Sunscald, or sunburn, can damage the delicate leaves of most houseplants, especially those that are sensitive to intense heat and direct sunlight. Unfortunately, catnip is also susceptible to this problem, particularly on summer days when the weather is very hot. 

Additionally, the damage and scars on the leaves can attract both fungal and bacterial pathogens. The presence of these microorganisms can make things worse for your struggling plants as they hasten the decomposition process. 

Sunscald can also inhibit the transport of nutrients throughout the plant’s stems and foliage. This can leave your catnip nutrient-deprived, which can be yet another possible cause of white spots.

Signs your catnip has a pest infestation

By far, pest infestation is the most common reason for white spots on catnip leaves. But, since most of these bugs are so tiny and very mobile, how do you know if your catnip is being eaten by pests? Here are some of the tell-tale signs:

1. Presence of tiny insects

Insects love hiding on the undersides of the leaves. So, if you suspect an infestation based on other symptoms, carefully lift your catnip leaves to check the surface underneath. You might be able to see a cluster of tiny bodies living under your plant’s leaves.

2. Visible insect eggs

These tiny bugs are smart enough to lay their eggs underneath the leaves to keep them out of your sight. So check your catnip leaves – especially the more mature leaves – to confirm the infestation. If you see a mass of tiny balls, these are eggs. Depending on the type of infestation, the eggs might be brown, yellow, or white. 

3. Honeydew-like substance

Do you see some spots that look like tiny water droplets on the surface of the leaves? If they are sticky, then what you are seeing is a byproduct produced by the pests. This is another visible sign that you can check to confirm an infestation on your catnip.

4. Small, delicate webs

If you notice web-like structures on the surface of the leaves, it is a sure sign that your catnip is infested with spider mites. Keep an eye on the leaves and nodes of the plant for signs of this webbing. 

How to get rid of white spots on catnip

White spots on catnip leaves can be caused by several issues. Aside from pest infestation, leaf discolorations can also be associated with poor soil conditions and root rot. Hence, the first step to saving your precious plants is to identify the exact culprit based on the symptoms.

If a pest infestation is confirmed, you can try the following tips to get rid of the white spots and bring back the healthy green color of your catnip leaves:

• First, isolate the infected plant. This step is very important to prevent the infestation from spreading to other, neighboring plants.

• Cut off the damaged leaves and stems, including those with insect eggs. Gather the infected parts and burn them.

• Using a garden hose, spritz the affected leaves with water to dislodge the insects. Once you are done, allow the excess water to drain, to prevent waterlogged soil.

• Dilute one part isopropyl alcohol with three parts water and use this to clean the leaves of your plant. Pests hate alcohol, and the solution can also help get rid of the honeydew-like substances and webs left behind on the leaves.

• Use natural insecticides to eradicate any remaining pests you see. Some of the best options include diluted apple cider vinegar or neem oil. Catnip is an edible herb, so it is best to avoid harsh chemicals or synthetic insecticides that are toxic.

• Spray your catnip leaves with diluted insecticidal soap to kill both the adult insects and their eggs. Use a solution of about one to two percent, or two to five tablespoons of soap per gallon of distilled water. 

• Finally, you may want to consider repotting your catnip after treating it, because some bugs can hide in the soil to resurface later on. Make sure to use fresh, well-draining soil for your catnip.

Tips to prevent white spots on catnip leaves

As the common saying goes, prevention is always better than cure. Once your catnip has fully recovered, it is time to implement some preventative measures to hold off re-infestation in the future. This can be done by creating favorable growing conditions for your plants to keep them healthy and disease-resistant. 

The following tips are some of the efficient ways to protect your plants from pest infestation in the future:

• Although catnip can thrive in partial shade, it is best grown in full sunlight. Make sure that your catnip receives about six hours of sunlight each day. Aside from keeping its foliage green and healthy, the heat from the sun can also help dry the soil between waterings and kill potential pests.

• Plant your catnip in well-draining, nutrient-rich soil. Like most houseplants, this herbaceous perennial does better in lightly moist, airy soil. Use coco peat and perlite in your potting mix to keep the soil healthy and prevent standing water.

• Avoid overwatering your plants. Watery soil will not only damage the root system, but also promote fungal growth and attract pests. Water your catnip only when the top layer of soil has completely dried.

• Choose natural insecticides to control early signs of infestation. You can also apply neem oil once a month to discourage pests from devouring your plants.

Conclusion

White spots on catnip leaves are generally caused by pest infestations – particularly thrips and spider mites. Early intervention is critical as these bugs tend to reproduce quickly. To manage the early stages of infestation, it is best to choose the natural methods mentioned in this article as these options are not harmful to you or your plants. 

Lastly, keep your catnip healthy and in top shape as this is your best defense against any form of disease or infestation!

Image: istockphoto.com / Stephanie J Connelly

Areca palms are popular houseplants that bring a fresh, tropical vibe to any interior landscape. Also known as butterfly palm or bamboo palm, the areca palm is particularly suitable for indoor gardening due to its tolerance for low light. 

However, root rot disease can quickly spoil the beauty and vigor of this unique plant. Overwatering is the main culprit behind this condition, and without your early intervention, the disease will continue to spread until the entire plant collapses and dies.

Areca palm root rot should never be taken lightly. Timing is critical to prevent further damage and save your plant from dying. As such, early diagnosis and prevention are your best tools to save your areca palm from this disease.

What causes root rot in areca palms?

Root rot is a common disease that causes a plant’s roots to decay and die. However, the problem does not occur overnight. Root rot is usually the result of long-term exposure to waterlogged soil, which creates favorable conditions for fungal growth. Standing water also fills in the porous spaces in the soil, thus inhibiting the supply of oxygen to the roots.

Unfortunately, root rot can often be tricky to diagnose, especially for those new to the gardening world. The earliest signs of this disease are hidden under the soil, and more often than not growers will misdiagnose the issue as underwatering. Affected plants tend to display browned, wilted, and dying foliage, similar to the signs of a water deficit issue. Without properly understanding the underlying causes, your normal reaction might be to give the plant more water, which of course will only make the problem worse!

If you are baffled as to why your areca palm is struggling with root rot, here are the most common causes you should look into:

• Overwatering
• Poor drainage
• Wrong pot size

Overwatering induces root rot by creating flooded conditions around the plant’s root zone. While these tropical houseplants prefer slightly moist soil, giving them more water than they need can have detrimental effects on their roots. Waterlogged soil inhibits the roots’ respiration, and oxygen-starved roots will slowly start dying and attract soil-borne pathogens that speed up the decomposition process.

Additionally, both compacted soil and pots without drainage holes will prevent excess water from draining efficiently, which also causes waterlogged conditions. So, perhaps you are not actively overwatering your areca palms, but your pot tends to hold too much water every time you water your plants. Eventually, the lack of proper drainage will cause pooling water at the bottom of the pot and create the same problem as overwatering.

Using the wrong pot size for your plants can also emulate an overwatering issue. Pots that are too large for your plants will have more room for excess water to collect. Pots that are too small, meanwhile, can cause the plant to become root-bound, which also makes it vulnerable to root rot.

What are the signs of root rot in areca palms?

There are several tell-tale signs that could help you identify root rot in your plants. Here are some of the above-ground and below-ground symptoms you can look out for:

1. Browning leaves

Brown leaves are one of the classic signs of root rot disease. Areca palms develop these unsightly discolorations starting from the leaves near the base of the plant. As the disease progresses, the number of brown leaves increases, all the way up until the entire plant collapses.

2. Yellowing leaves

Overwatering and root rot can also cause your areca palm’s leaves to turn yellow. Soil nutrients, water, and oxygen are important ingredients for photosynthesis, a process that keeps the leaves bushy and green. But without healthy roots, the plant’s water and nutrient uptake is compromised; hence the yellowing leaves.

3. Wilting and drooping

Wilting and drooping are signs of a lack of moisture. Although these symptoms are prevalent in underwatered plants, overwatering can also cause the same symptoms. This is because damaged roots limit the plant’s water absorption.

Water is essential to maintain turgor pressure within the tissue of a living plant. It keeps the leaves and stems looking plump and firm. Unfortunately, rotten roots can no longer meet the water demands of the entire plant, which is why it will wilt and droop.

4. Stunted growth

Plants rely on soil nutrients and water to thrive. The role of the roots is to distribute nutrients and moisture to parts of the plant above ground. But, if most of the roots are damaged, your areca palm will not receive adequate nutrition. This results in stunted growth, especially in plants that are severely affected by root rot.

5. Dark, mushy roots

The most surefire way to detect root rot disease is to take the plant out of its pot and get a closer look at the roots. Healthy roots should be white and firm, while roots that look dark, soft, and mushy are indicative of a rotting problem.

6. Foul smell from the soil and roots

All rotten organic matter produces a stench. If your areca palm is struggling with root rot, you will most likely smell the evidence, even on the surface of the soil. Root rot generally emanates a slightly sulfurous or swamp-like odor – and the stronger the smell, the more damaged the roots are likely to be. 

How to save your areca palm from root rot

Saving an overwatered areca palm might seem an impossible mission, but do not lose heart! Time is of the essence, especially since root rot can spread pretty quickly. Early intervention is key to rescuing a dying plant and preventing further damage to the roots. 

However, if most of the roots have already rotted, then your plant is probably beyond saving. Diseased plants should be discarded right away to prevent fungal pathogens from infecting the rest of your houseplants.

So, if you think your areca palm is showing signs of root rot, you need to confirm it right away and apply the necessary solutions to rescue it. The steps below should guide you through saving an areca palm with early signs of root rot: 

1. Stop watering and unpot the plant

Allow the soil to dry thoroughly for a few days and check how your plant responds. This will prevent further possible damage to the roots. However, you might still need to repot your areca palm to make sure that the disease does not progress. Unpotting will also help you get a closer look at the roots and assess the damage.

2. Clean the roots

Once you have taken your plant out of its pot, clean the roots under running water to remove all the soil. Ideally, you should be able to see more healthy roots than rotten roots. Using a clean pair of pruning shears, trim any dead roots you see and discard them right away. Do not reuse the soil or trimmed plant parts in your garden.

3. Disinfect the roots

Once the roots are clean, you can apply a fungicide or hydrogen peroxide solution to kill any remaining pathogens. This step is important to prevent the fungal root rot from resurfacing after your plant is repotted. Soak the entire root system in a basin or bathtub containing the solution, and then leave your areca palm on old newspapers to dry before repotting it.

4. Sterilize the pot

Do not reuse your pot without cleaning and sterilizing it thoroughly. You can use hydrogen peroxide or a light bleach mixture to kill any soil-borne pathogens in the container. Washing the pot with soap and water should be your first step to remove any leftover soil or dirt. Then, soak the containers in the hydrogen peroxide or bleach solution for up to ten minutes. Afterward, leave the pot in a sunny spot to dry completely.

5. Prune the dead leaves

Any brown or yellow leaves are not going to return to their healthy color, so they are best trimmed off so the plant can focus all its energy on new growth. Just remember to use sterilized scissors or pruning shears to remove the dead leaves.

6. Repot the plant

Repotting is the final step in saving your overwatered areca palm. Make sure that you are using the right pot size – preferably about two inches wider than the root ball. The pot should also have enough drainage holes for excess water to escape easily.

Choosing well-draining soil is also important to prevent any future root rot. Choose a potting mix that contains porous soil and peat moss or sand. You can also use shredded bark or leaf mold to improve aeration and enrich the soil.

Conclusion

Root rot can seriously damage your lovely areca palms. Waterlogged soil and fungal pathogens are the main culprits behind the roots’ deterioration, so in order to protect your plants from these issues, make sure to avoid overwatering and use pots and soil with excellent drainage. Being aware of the symptoms of root rot and the appropriate solutions is also of utmost importance, so you can take action right away should your houseplants contract the disease.

Image: istockphoto.com / KIHWAN KIM

Junipers are tough shrubs that can thrive in most growing conditions, including frost and drought. These plants can also tolerate windswept areas, sandy soil, or any type of well-draining soil. Despite this hardiness, however, junipers might still turn brown and appear to be dying, especially during the winter months.

So, do junipers turn brown in winter? In a nutshell, yes – but that does not mean your plants are doomed. Aside from freezing temperatures, the browning foliage can also be caused by several other factors, including pests and fungal diseases. All of these are explained further in this article.

Why are my junipers turning brown?

Junipers are versatile shrubs used extensively for landscape gardening and ground cover. These plants can tolerate harsh outdoor weather conditions, from freezing temperatures to drought. But, despite their toughness, junipers might still face some issues that cause their leaves to turn brown.

Among the most probable reasons your junipers might turn brown are fungal tip blight, root rot, pest infestations, and leaf cankers. All of these issues can detract from the plants’ vigor and beauty. Hence, you need to be well-prepared to prevent any leaf discolorations on your plants by establishing proper care routines, preventative measures, and immediate intervention when necessary.

All that said, leaves turning brown might not always indicate a serious issue. Sometimes, it could just be a plant’s normal reaction to environmental stressors. For example, a juniper turning brown after being transplanted could simply be due to transplant stress. This is normal for most plants, but you can take a few steps during and after the planting process to minimize the impact and help your juniper bounce back quickly.

Extreme weather conditions can also affect the color of your plants’ leaves. For instance, dormancy during the winter months causes juniper leaves to brown. This is one of the plant’s survival tactics to conserve its resources while preparing itself for the freezing temperatures. Again, this is normal, to some degree, and should not cause any serious concerns.

Why do junipers turn brown in winter?

While junipers are generally hardy and cold-tolerant, these shrubs can experience leaf discolorations during sunless periods with sub-zero temperatures. This problem is called winter desiccation.

Winter desiccation, also known as winter burn, is a foliar injury common among trees and shrubs. It happens when too much moisture is lost by the leaves, usually on cold, windy days. Junipers are at particular risk of winter desiccation, which causes their leaves to develop reddish-brown tips. Severe cases might lead to the browning of the entire plant and dropping of the leaves.

While winter desiccation might seem a serious issue, it does not always mean your shrubs are dying. Often, hardy plants like junipers can make a quick recovery once the cold months have passed. So, instead of cutting back your shrubs, be patient and give them time to bounce back. You can also establish a few preventative measures for the next winter season to ensure your junipers do not experience the same damage again.

Junipers turning brown and dying

Juniper needles turn brown for a number of reasons. Aside from winter burn, the plants might also struggle with pests and diseases that can cause irreversible damage to the foliage. Usually, the culprit will be one of these:

1. Twig blight

Twig blight is a disease caused by Phomopsis juniperovora, a fungus that attacks junipers during spring and summer. Some of the tell-tale signs of twig blight infection include leaves that are turning reddish-brown, and dieback of the affected leaves and branches.  

For twig blight treatment, fungicides that contain thiophanate methyl or mancozeb are often the most effective. Overhead irrigation must also be avoided, as this watering technique can wet the leaves and promote fungal growth.

2. Kabatina tip blight

Kabatina tip blight is another type of fungal disease that affects shrubs like junipers. It is caused by a fungus called Kabatina juniperi. Juniper plants affected with Kabatina blight often struggle with dieback of the tips of their leaves and branches.

Similar to twig blight, pruning away dead leaves and keeping the foliage dry will be a great help in protecting your junipers from the dreadful disease. Unfortunately, there are currently no fungicides available to cure Kabatina tip blight.

3. Root rot 

Root rot is a fungal disease that causes decomposition of the plant’s roots. This problem is most prevalent among overwatered plants. Overly saturated soil inhibits the plant’s ability to absorb oxygen, killing the roots in the process. Soil-borne fungal pathogens called Phytophthora can further exacerbate the issue by attacking the dead roots, leading to the collapse of the entire plant.

Rescuing a juniper with root rot is possible provided that intervention is early. Fungicides often work wonders, but prevention still beats any form of treatment. To avoid waterlogged soil, make sure that the soil is loose and rich in organic matter. Reduce your watering frequency as well, to allow time for the soil to dry out a bit.

4. Bagworm infestation

Bagworms are among the most destructive pests of several ornamental shrubs and trees. Their larvae feast on the leaves of juniper shrubs as soon as they hatch in early summer, around May or June. The larvae are covered with bags while they feed on the plants, hence the name “bagworm”.

Early bagworm infestations can be controlled by manually removing the worms and drowning them in a bucket filled with soap and water. For severe infestations, chemical sprays that contain acephate (Orthene), cyfluthrin, and spinosad are the most effective. The only downside, however, is that these chemicals are highly toxic and can also kill beneficial insects.

5. Spider mite infestation

Spider mites also find juniper leaves an attractive source of nourishment. These tiny, almost microscopic insects feast on the plant’s sap, turning your junipers brown as they drain the juice from the leaves. Without correct treatment, spider mites can quickly reproduce and take over an entire garden.

Forceful spraying of water on the plant’s foliage often works to dislodge these insects from the leaves. Insecticidal soaps and horticultural oils work wonders, too. If you prefer using insecticides to manage severe infestations, make sure to choose products that contain permethrin or pyrethrin. 

Juniper care tips for the winter

Winter desiccation might pose some risks to your juniper plants, but with proper care and preventative measures, you can greatly reduce the negative impact and help your junipers recover faster.

One way is to increase your watering during the autumn so that the plant can store more moisture before winter arrives. Mulching is also helpful as it keeps the soil moist and prevents plant dehydration. Use burlap to protect your juniper plants from freezing temperatures and strong winds.

How to prevent juniper shrubs from browning

Browning is undesirable because it detracts from the beauty of your juniper shrubs. Aside from applying the appropriate treatments to correct the underlying issues, you can also employ any of these techniques to keep your shrubs thick and green:

• Plant your junipers in a location with abundant sunlight and good drainage. While these shrubs are tough, they can also be susceptible to root rot and other fungal infections that can induce the browning of their needles.

• Junipers must be planted with sufficient spacing between plants. This will promote air circulation and reduce the risk of fungal growth.

• Keep an eye on your junipers to catch any early signs of infestation – especially of bagworms. If you notice any small, white bags dangling from the plants’ foliage, pick them off and discard them right away.

• Control caterpillar infestations by applying Bacillus thuringiensis on the leaves. Caterpillars are usually abundant during late springtime or early summer. Repeat the application every ten days until the pests are gone.

• Dog pee can stain the leaves of your plants and cause them to turn brown. Make sure to apply safe dog repellents to your garden to keep curious pets from peeing on your shrubs.

• Sanitize your gardening tools before and after using them to avoid spreading fungal pathogens. If you have plants with fungal disease, discard the infected leaves and stems right away. Also rake and discard the leaves on the ground.

• Protect your juniper shrubs from excessive dryness and browning by using an anti-desiccant mist.

Conclusion

Junipers turning brown in winter is a common woe among gardeners. Fortunately, however, these hardy shrubs are rarely killed by winter burn. The real threats to your plants are pests and fungal diseases, both of which can also turn your junipers brown. Without your early intervention, pests and diseases can gradually kill your beautiful shrubs. 

The key to reviving your dying junipers is correct diagnosis of the problem, followed by the appropriate solution. So, examine your plants’ symptoms carefully, and hopefully this guide will help you apply the right fixes!

Image: istockphoto.com / Stipe Perkovic

Lipstick plants are popular among gardeners for their unique, tube-shaped flowers that resemble tubes of lipstick. These tropical flowering vines are also fairly easy to grow, and can be enjoyed as indoor decorative plants or as semi-trailing vines in hanging baskets.

Unfortunately, a lipstick plant’s leaves can be vulnerable to certain environmental stressors that can cause them to wilt and drop off the plant. If you are struggling to figure out why your lipstick plant is dropping leaves, we might have the answer for you in this article, so read on!

Lipstick plant care overview

The lipstick plant, botanically known as Aeschynanthus, is a flowering plant with vining stems. It is well known for its waxy, curly foliage and tubular flowers that bloom annually. This tropical plant is native to the rainforests of Southeast Asia, where it grows as an epiphyte, reaching up to ten feet long. 

Due to their tropical native habitat, lipstick plants generally grow better in warm and humid environments. They also enjoy regular misting, especially when environmental humidity levels are low – provided it is done during daylight hours. 

As with most other houseplants, lipstick vines prefer moderately moist soil and are best grown in areas with bright, indirect sunlight. Slow-release liquid fertilizers, preferably with a 3:1:2 ratio, are recommended for these plants to promote lush foliage.

Why is my lipstick plant dropping leaves? Common causes

If your lipstick plants start dropping leaves, it is likely caused by one of the following issues:

1. Underwatering

Lipstick plants are generally quite drought-tolerant. That said, however, these tropical epiphytes do not like to sit in excessively dry soil for too long. If they do, their leaves will begin to turn brown and fall off due to dehydration.  

Underwatering is a common gardening mistake. If you suspect you may be guilty of neglecting your lipstick vine for too long, it may be time to correct your watering habits to ensure that your lovely plant survives. Otherwise, it will continue to lose its vibrant foliage until the whole plant dies.

To rehydrate your plant, you just need to give it a good soak to allow the soil to become saturated with water. Once the soil is fully saturated, let the excess water drain out of the pot. From then on, make sure to water your plant before the soil dries out completely. Its rootball should be consistently moist – never completely dry, but also never waterlogged. 

2. Overwatering

Dropping of leaves that are also yellowing and shriveling is an indication that your lipstick plant is overwatered. As tropical perennials, lipstick vines mostly prefer to be just on the moist side of dry, and thus do not take well to being overwatered. 

Waterlogged soil can be problematic for most garden plants, in several ways. First, it causes deterioration of the roots. Without healthy roots, a plant’s nutrient uptake is compromised, causing it to lose vigor and reducing its ability to fight off common pests and diseases. One such disease is root rot, which is caused by soil-borne fungi. Lipstick plants with root rot develop soft or mushy roots, stems, and foliage, due to a lack of oxygen and nutrients that would normally be absorbed by the roots. Eventually, the disease will kill your plant and may also spread to nearby plants in the garden.

Plants with severe root damage can be difficult to revive, but you might still save your lipstick plant if the issue is diagnosed in its early stages. First, remove the plant from its current pot and wash the roots under running water. Cut off any dead roots you see, as well as any dying branches and leaves. Then repot your lipstick plant in a new pot, using fresh, well-draining soil.

To improve soil drainage and prevent overwatering in the future, we highly recommend mixing your potting soil with perlite and coarse sand. Make sure to allow the soil to dry (but not completely) in between waterings.

3. Low humidity

Lipstick plants are native to the tropical regions of Southeast Asia where the climate is warm and humid. Hence, emulating these conditions is important if you want your vines to grow and bloom profusely. 

There are many ways to make your indoor climate friendlier for your plants, especially during the cold seasons. Installing a humidifier is generally the most effective solution to boost the humidity levels in your home. Misting might work too, but we recommend misting your plants only in the morning so that the leaves have the entire day to dry. Never keep the leaves wet for longer than necessary, especially at night, as this can attract fungal pathogens that cause leaf spots, rotting, and dieback of the leaves and stems.

4. Cold temperatures

Lipstick plants hate the cold. Temperatures ranging from 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit encourage the best growth and flowering of these plants, and any temperature outside of this range can negatively impact their health.

Long-term exposure to temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit can permanently damage your lipstick plant’s leaves and cause them to drop off. Always keep in mind that these plants are not cold-tolerant and need to be protected from freezing winter temperatures and cold drafts. 

5. Inadequate light

Lipstick plants require bright, indirect sunlight to thrive and produce flowers. Keeping your plant in a shaded area will cause its leaves to wilt, yellow, and drop. 

Sunlight is essential for a plant to synthesize its own energy and chlorophyll, so if your lipstick vine is light-deprived, its leaves will turn pale and its stems will become leggy. Essentially, your plant will starve to death, regardless of how much you feed or water it.

This issue in lipstick plants can be easily corrected by moving your plant to a location with better access to filtered sunlight. You can also prune away the dead leaves to make room for new growth. Just make sure not to expose your plant to full, direct sunlight, or you risk leaf scorch and other irreversible leaf damage.

How often should you water a lipstick plant?

There is no specific schedule to follow when it comes to watering this flowering vine. Rather, knowing the right time to water involves understanding your plant’s needs as well as the other contributing factors like weather, the type of pot you are using, and the environmental temperature.

The best indicator for watering your lipstick vine is the soil condition. If the top layer looks crumbly, dry, and light in color, then the soil is likely a bit too dry and needs some watering. You can also poke your finger about two inches into the soil to assess its dampness or dryness beneath the top layer. From here, you should be able to determine whether your plant needs a drink.

Additionally, here are a few guidelines to prevent underwatering or overwatering your lipstick plant:

• During spring and summer, lipstick plants should be watered roughly once a week, depending on your local climate.
• During fall and winter, reduce the watering since the plants will become dormant and temperatures are lower. On average, watering once every two or three weeks should usually suffice.

How much light do lipstick plants need?

To encourage vigorous growth of foliage and flowers, your lipstick plant must be placed in an area with bright but filtered sunlight. Never keep it in full shade or full sunlight. Typically, these evergreens need about five hours of indirect sunlight each day to achieve optimal growth.

What does it mean if a lipstick plant’s leaves turn purple?

Heat stress is the most common reason your lipstick plant’s leaves might start turning from green to purple. This might not sound alarming to you, but you need to correct the issue promptly to prevent further damage to the foliage. As already mentioned, lipstick plants are best placed in spots with indirect light. To maintain their healthy green color, always avoid exposing them to full sunlight.

What does it mean if a lipstick plant gets black spots?

Black spots on the leaves are a sign of Botrytis, a fungal disease that can affect almost any ornamental plant. The disease is more likely to strike in lipstick plants that have constantly moist leaves and are kept in a humid environment. 

To prevent this issue, water your plants directly at the base, instead of watering from overhead. Also avoid misting at night, as there will not be enough time for the water to evaporate from the leaves, thus allowing air-borne pathogens to attach to the leaf surface. Instead, mist your plants in the morning so that the leaves have enough daylight hours to dry.

Why is my lipstick plant not blooming?

There are two possible reasons your lipstick plant might fail to produce flowers. First, it might be lacking adequate light. Keeping this plant in full shade is not good for its health overall, so try to move it to a brighter area, especially during the spring and summer, for more vigorous growth.

Another possible reason for a lipstick plant not to bloom is a lack of fertilizer. To deal with this issue, we recommend applying a water-soluble, potassium-rich fertilizer, at reduced strength, every two weeks during the plant’s growing season.

Conclusion

Watching your lipstick plant drop its leaves can be very worrying, especially if you are not sure what has triggered the issue. Improper watering is the leading culprit behind unhealthy leaves, followed by inadequate sunlight, lack of humidity, and exposure to cold temperatures. Hopefully, you can determine the true cause of your lipstick vine’s dropping leaves and apply the appropriate solutions mentioned in this guide.

Image: istockphoto.com / sKrisda

How to Save An Overwatered Fuchsia?

Fuchsia plants are loved by many for their unique and vibrant bell-shaped flowers. They also help make your garden attractive to pollinators like butterflies, bumblebees, and hummingbirds. You can plant fuchsias in the ground, or raise your decor game by letting them trail from hanging baskets.

But, while they are lovely to look at, there is no denying that fuchsias are fussy when it comes to their watering needs. An overwatered fuchsia will usually appear sad and wilted, and will not make a positive contribution to the aesthetic of your garden or living space.

If you notice these signs of overwatering, do not panic. Check your plant’s symptoms to confirm that the issue is, indeed, overwatering, and hopefully you can apply the right solutions in time to rescue your plant.

Why overwatering is bad for your fuchsia

One of the most important things you probably learned when you first started gardening is never to overwater your plants. But you might still not understand what exactly makes overwatering so dangerous for your garden ornamentals.

Well, first of all, overwatering can seriously restrict the supply of oxygen to a plant’s roots. Furthermore, too much water in the soil can actually drown the roots, leading to an irreversible condition called root rot. For this reason, overwatering is considered the number one killer of houseplants.

Just like other living organisms, our green friends rely on oxygen to stay alive. Oxygen is an essential ingredient, along with sunlight and water, for plants to create their own nourishment in the form of sugars and starches. And one of the main functions of the root system is to transport a sufficient supply of oxygen to the plant from the soil’s air pockets. 

However, when the soil is too wet or waterlogged, it no longer has enough air pockets, so the plant’s oxygen supply is cut off. The wet conditions also create a favorable environment for soil-borne fungi, and these pathogens will cause the roots to deteriorate even faster, eventually killing the entire plant. One of the most common of these rot-exacerbating pathogens is Phytophthora spp., a type of fungus that thrives in damp and humid environments. 

Aside from fuchsia, almost any type of crop, shrub, or ornamental plant can develop root rot. Unfortunately, overwatering can sometimes be misdiagnosed as pest infestation or even underwatering. Because root rot happens underground, without actually uprooting your plant to check the roots, you might not realize what is happening to your plant until the damage becomes really severe and obvious.

Overwatered Fuchsia tell-tale signs

The first step in diagnosing your plant’s problem is to understand the symptoms. If you suspect your fuchsia is overwatered, check out the tell-tale signs below to see if they fit with your plant’s current symptoms:

1. Leaves turning brown

Browning of the tips and margins of the leaves is a classic sign of overwatering. But how does this happen?

Plant tissue is mostly made up of water, which helps maintain the turgor pressure within the cell walls, keeping the leaves and stems firm and upright. Starting from the roots, moisture is passed through the plant until it reaches the end of the line, which is the tips of the leaves.

In the case of overwatering, the excessive moisture absorbed by the roots causes too much pressure on the leaf cells. Eventually, these cells burst, leaving brown crusty tips or margins on the leaves.

2. Leaves turning yellow

Yellowing leaves is a symptom of both under- and overwatering, so this sign is often misdiagnosed as underwatering. But, in this case, the yellowing leaves indicate that the roots of your fuchsia are drowning. The leaves might display a green-and-yellow mosaic pattern although they are still firmly attached to the stems.

Yellowing fuchsia leaves are also a sign that your plant is losing its vigor. Water plays an important role in photosynthesis, and with deteriorating roots, the plant’s supply of water and nutrients is restricted. This, in turn, affects the metabolic activities of the plant.

Eventually, the yellow leaves will fall off – including the younger leaves – due to the lack of moisture.

3. Dropping buds

After months of caring for and growing your fuchsias, you will be justifiably excited to finally see them bloom! But if their buds do not open and instead fall off, something is seriously wrong. 

As you might know by now, fuchsias do not like their soil to be too dry or too saturated. If you have been overwatering your plants, this is probably the reason behind the bud drop. Try not to go overboard when watering your plants in future – ensure that the soil is slightly moist but not waterlogged. This will enable your plants to focus their energy on producing beautiful blooms.

4. Signs of root rot

We have mentioned previously how root rot can severely damage and kill your plants. Aside from browning leaves, other symptoms of root rot might also start to surface, including defoliation, stunted growth, mushy leaves or stems, wilting leaves, a droopy appearance, and dry, crispy leaves.

If you lift the plant from its pot, you might also notice the roots have turned dark in color and look mushy. Rotting roots also emit a foul odor that is slightly sulfurous. All of these symptoms confirm that your plant is struggling with decaying roots.

How to save an overwatered fuchsia

Rescuing an overwatered fuchsia can be successful if done in the early stages of the problem and before any root rot has become too severe. As soon as you notice the signs of overwatering or root rot, follow these steps to prevent further damage:

• Stop watering your plant for a couple of days until the soil dries up a bit. If your plant improves, then from now on, reduce your watering. It is always a good idea to manually check the soil’s moisture levels before watering your plant.
• If the previous step does not perk your plant back up, then you need to remove it from its container or uproot it from the ground so that you can see the roots. Do you still see a lot of healthy, white roots? If so, you can save your plant. Gently wash the roots to remove the dirt and trim off any dead roots you see. Then transfer your plant to fresh, well-draining soil.
• If most of the roots are damaged, that means the root rot is severe and it might not be possible to revive your plant. In this case, it is better to discard the entire plant and start over with a new one.
• To avoid root rot in the future, remember to water your plants only when necessary. Water thoroughly and deeply, and then allow the soil to dry out a bit (but not completely) before watering again.
• Add rotten manure or compost to the soil to improve its drainage. This will also help lock in moisture and provide enough nutrients for your fuchsias.
• Adjust your watering schedule according to the season and the local rainfall. Also avoid overhead irrigation, as wet leaves can promote fungal diseases.
• Keep in mind that the surface of the soil usually dries out first, but that does not mean your plant is drought-stressed. If the surface looks dry, try to check the dampness of the soil at root level. You can do this by poking your finger into the soil to about two inches deep. Soil probes also offer a convenient solution to accurately check the moisture level in the soil.

How often should a fuschia be watered?

As mentioned previously, fuchsias can be a bit fussy about their watering needs. Keeping their soil too dry or too wet can cause drooping, along with browning or yellowing of their leaves. They like their soil to be consistently moist – just enough to keep them hydrated and functioning.

So, depending on other environmental factors like temperature and weather conditions, you need to adjust your watering to meet the needs of your plants. For example, if your fuchsias are planted in the ground, try watering them once or twice a week and see how they respond. For younger plants, you might need to water them every two or three days.

For fuchsias grown in containers or hanging baskets, their watering needs might be more demanding, particularly in the hot summer months. Make sure to keep a regular eye on your local weather conditions as well as the soil, and water your plants as necessary.

Conclusion

Fuchsias are generally fussy about their soil – they do not want it too dry or too wet. Unfortunately, when we notice our favorite plants looking a bit sad and droopy, we might panic and respond hastily by giving them more water. However, this can exacerbate the issue if the plant is overwatered, and you may end up killing it even faster!

Instead of this hasty response, try to diagnose the problem correctly according to its symptoms. Hopefully, through this guide, you have learned what an overwatered fuchsia looks like and how to deal with the issue appropriately.

Image: istockphoto.com / Richard Griffin

Why Is My Dusty Miller Drooping?

With its velvet-textured, silvery leaves, who would not fall in love with the unique beauty of a dusty miller? Its foliage makes a striking contrast against the colors of any surrounding flowers, making them the center of attraction in the garden. If you are an avid gardener, you probably do not want to miss out on adding this stunning plant to your collection!

But, when your dusty miler’s leaves start to droop, it quickly loses its vigor and beauty. For any dedicated gardener, this can be a heartbreaking sight. There are several possible causes of drooping in dusty miller plants, one of the most common being improper watering. Let us analyze all the culprits below, and discuss what you can do to perk your silver beauty back up.

How to troubleshoot a drooping dusty miller

For inexperienced growers, seeing their lovely perennials looking sad and weak can be confusing as well as frustrating, especially after all the time and effort spent nurturing their plants. But, regardless of your hard work, problems are bound to happen – even for hardy and drought-resistant plants like the dusty miller.

Several underlying issues can cause a dusty miller’s drooping appearance, so to troubleshoot your plant, here are some questions you need to answer:

1. Is it receiving full sunlight?

Although dusty millers can tolerate partial shade, these plants are happier in full sunlight. Their furry, silvery leaves are well-suited to areas with lots of sunlight, and the little hairs that cause their silver color will actually stop growing or fall off in shady areas, causing the leaves to turn green.

Additionally, dusty millers that do not receive adequate light are more likely to become limp and leggy as the stems stretch out in search of light. 

To fix this issue, your dusty miller must be placed in a sunny location to maintain its stunning foliage and compact form. You do not need to worry about the sun’s heat, since these plants are heat- and drought-tolerant. Full sunlight exposure for at least four hours a day is the recommendation for growing a healthy-looking dusty miller.

2. How long has it been potted?

Dusty millers can be vulnerable to becoming rootbound, especially if they have been growing in the same pot for too long. When a plant is rootbound, its roots can become too dense and compacted, causing soil displacement from the pot. This leaves less soil available to provide moisture and nutrients, thus compromising the roots’ ability to provide for the entire plant.

There is no exact timeline as to when you should repot your dusty miller. Simply make it a habit to check on your plant from time to time, and if you notice any roots growing out through the pot’s drainage holes or over the top of the pot, it is time to repot your plant. Make sure that the new pot is about two inches bigger than the previous one.

3. Is the soil too wet?

Soggy soil is undesirable for most plants. It causes deterioration of the roots, leading to a disease known as root rot. Soil-borne fungi also favor the damp, humid environment, and can hasten the death of the root system and the entire plant.

So, if your dusty miller is suddenly looking sad and lifeless, check the soil. Do you see any standing water? Is it always very wet? If so, your plant could be struggling with root rot.

At this point, the best thing you can do is check the roots to assess the severity of the damage. Gently lift the affected plant from its pot and inspect all of the roots. Healthy roots should be white and firm, while damaged ones will look dark and mushy. If more than half of the roots have remained healthy, you have a good chance of reviving your dying plant. All you need to do is prune away the damaged parts, wash the remaining roots under running water, and repot your plant in fresh, well-draining soil.

However, if most of the roots have become rotten, you should probably discard the plant as it has very little chance of pulling through. Do not use any parts of the diseased plant in your compost, or you risk the spread of fungal spores.

4. Is the soil too dry?

Are you one of those gardeners who is always forgetting to water their plants regularly, until the garden starts to suffer symptoms of neglect? Thankfully, dusty millers are drought tolerant and do not mind a degree of neglect.

However, long periods without water, combined with hot weather conditions, can eventually be detrimental for these silvery plants. After all, they are still living organisms, and they need water to carry on their metabolic activities. So, the question is, when was the last time you watered your plants? If you cannot remember a date, then it is probably too long ago. By this point, your already-distressed dusty millers are drooping and turning brown to catch your attention.

Fully-established dusty millers do not really require much attention – just give them some water about once a week and they will be happy. And, importantly, adjust your watering according to changes in the weather. You do not want the soil to become too dry in between waterings.

A clever way to check your plant’s moisture needs is to feel the soil with your finger, or use a soil moisture meter if you prefer to see actual figures. Hopefully, these methods will help you avoid underwatering and keep your dusty millers properly hydrated.

5. How long have you been growing the plant?

Sadly, all plants have a finite life cycle. If you have done your best to nurture your dusty miller and it still looks sad and dying, this might be the end of its life. Aside from drooping, you might also notice the stems growing a bit longer than usual and its flower clusters turning yellow.

Some gardeners grow these beauties as annuals, meaning that the plants are discarded after their first season. But keep in mind that dusty millers are generally considered herbaceous perennials in zones eight to ten. This means they will come back year after year to produce their creamy yellow flowers.

Other signs to look out for

Drooping does not always mean a plant is dying. There are many other signs that you need to consider to fully understand your plant’s woes and to be able to take appropriate and timely action.

A dusty miller drooping, when combined with other signs, could mean different things. Have a read through the symptoms below to help you arrive at the correct diagnosis:

1. Curling leaves

This generally means that the plant is trying to conserve moisture. This sign can be very apparent if your perennials have been underwatered for long periods. Insect damage, root rot, the use of herbicides, and overfertilization can also cause the leaves to curl. 

2. Leaves turning green

Dusty miller leaves turn green when they lose the tiny hairs that give them their usual silvery color. This often happens when the plant is not receiving enough sunlight. As mentioned previously, dusty millers do best in full, direct sunlight. They are also tolerant of shady areas, but they will not achieve such a healthy, silvery appearance under these conditions.

3. Leaves turning black

If the leaves of your perennial are turning dark green or black, your plant is likely struggling with high temperatures. This most often happens during hot summer seasons, particularly in the afternoon hours. But, once the weather cools down a bit, your dusty miller should quickly bounce back to normal.

4. Wilting leaves

Improper watering is usually the culprit behind wilting dusty miller leaves. Like other plants, their roots are sensitive to extreme dryness or wetness. So, whether you are underwatering or overwatering your plants, both of these practices can damage their foliage via a compromised root system.

5. Powdery mildew on the leaves

Powdery mildew is caused by fungal spores that thrive in wet and humid environments. Keeping your plant’s leaves wet for any extended period provides these pathogens an opportunity to take up residence there. One tell-tale sign that this has happened is the appearance of white, powdery spots on the undersides of the leaves – known as powdery mildew.

How often should you water your dusty miller?

The golden rule when it comes to watering your plants is to allow the soil to dry out a little bit in between waterings. That said, make sure that the soil does not look too dry or too wet, as both of these conditions can have undesirable effects on your plants. Under mild weather conditions, watering your dusty miller once a week should suffice. 

How do you keep your dusty miller from drooping?

Of all of the possible causes of drooping, improper watering seems to be the most common culprit, so keep a close check on your watering habits. Is your plant struggling with a lack of water or too much watering? Once your care routine has been corrected, your dusty miller should be growing healthily and beautifully in no time.

Conclusion

The unique silvery leaves of a dusty miller plant are a sight to behold – but it can also be scary and frustrating if they suddenly start drooping or dying! Often, this issue is triggered by improper watering, although it could also be caused by a lack of sunlight, a rootbound state, or fungal disease. Although dusty millers are hardy plants, these issues should never be taken lightly. Hopefully, using this guide, you can determine the exact cause of the drooping and rescue your plant in the shortest possible time!

Image: istockphoto.com / liuyushan

Among avid gardeners, rue is considered a rare gem in the garden. Not only is this plant very versatile; it is also tough and undemanding, making it one of those plant species that are difficult to kill. In general, rue is not very fussy when it comes to its growth requirements, and can grow in almost any conditions or soil type without complaint. Most importantly, this perennial herb is hated by destructive pests and wildlife due to its strong aromatic scent, making it an excellent pest repellent in your garden!

But, despite all these great and resilient features, your rue plant may not always be in perfect health. Yes, it is drought- and disease-resistant, but it has one weakness that can quickly bring it to the brink of death – none other than the dreaded root rot! If you have been gardening for a long time, this disease is probably nothing new to you. 

If you are wondering why your rue plant is dying, the likely culprit is root rot. Let us dig into the details below to help you understand how to rescue your dying plant.

Rue plant care overview

Rue, also known as Ruta graveolens or herb of grace, is an evergreen perennial known for its aromatic, bluish-green foliage. Its growth is similar to that of a shrub, reaching about 20 to 30 inches in height. 

Since ancient times, rue has been widely used for culinary and medicinal purposes. Its branches were also used by Roman Catholics to sprinkle holy water over the heads of their followers as a sign of blessing, hence its nickname, “herb of grace.” However, in recent times, experts have issued warnings about using this heirloom plant for medicinal purposes, due to its toxicity. 

If your aim is to grow rue as a host plant, then having it in your garden will bring a lot of benefits. Butterflies like the giant swallowtail, anise swallowtail, and black swallowtail favor this evergreen herb when laying their eggs. Caterpillars also love its leaves, leaving the plant bare for a short period. However, this sparse appearance will not last long as the leaves grow back quickly, making rue the ideal host plant to protect other, high-value crops or ornamentals in the garden.

One thing to keep in mind, though, is that rue might not be the best companion for all plants. Although it is great for repelling insects and destructive animals like deer and rabbits, it is known to produce chemicals in its roots that can cause stunted growth in certain herbs. You should therefore never plant it near other herbs like sage, basil, or mint. 

So, what are the plant care requirements when it comes to growing rue?

Rue is considered a tough plant – it does not suffer from too many problems and is generally resilient against most pests and plant diseases. Aside from being an excellent host plant, a fully-established rue plant is also drought-resistant and does not need a lot of maintenance to thrive.

Rue typically grows in areas with hot and dry climates. It is considered hardy in zones four to nine, and is not as fastidious as some other garden plants. It can grow happily in poor soil, too, be it sandy or rocky. Hence, you will not need to spend money on special fertilizers to feed your rue.

Rue is also cold-hardy and should be happy and hassle-free in the ground until the first hard frost. Mulching is advised during the winter, however, to protect it from extreme temperatures. 

Signs your rue plant may be dying

The most obvious signs of a dying rue plant are visible changes to the leaves. First, you may notice the leaves starting to wilt and turn brown or yellow. Their texture may then become crispy, and some parts of the plant might look soft or mushy. Overall, the plant will appear droopy and unhealthy.

Unlike most garden plants, rue is rarely harmed by pests and fungal leaf diseases. So, the most likely culprit to kill these plants is improper watering.

Why is my rue plant dying? The common culprit

Rue is one of those plants that are difficult to kill. Perhaps the only weakness of this versatile herb is its susceptibility to root rot, which is caused by too much water in the soil. 

Root rot is a prevalent issue among overwatered plants. If you habitually pamper your rue with excessive watering, you are effectively drowning its roots in waterlogged soil and slowly killing the plant in the process. 

Rue plants are drought-tolerant, and they would rather survive in a dry environment than sit in wet soil for too long. They really do not require very much watering; otherwise, their roots will not be able to absorb enough oxygen to keep them firm and healthy. Similar to other plants, their delicate roots can quickly start to decompose when exposed to watery soil and the soil-borne pathogens that come with it.

Once the roots are damaged, your plant will struggle with nutrient uptake. The nutrition from the soil will never reach the stems and leaves, and this is what causes the leaves to brown and wilt. Your plant will also stop growing, since it is no longer supported by the roots. Photosynthesis and other metabolic processes will be hindered as well. Slowly but surely, your favorite host plant will start losing its leaves and will eventually die.

To save your dying rue, stop watering it for as long as it takes for the soil to dry out. Keep in mind, however, that this method will only work for plants with minimal root damage.

For severe cases of root rot, you will need to uproot the plant and wash off the infected roots. Using a sterilized pair of scissors, cut off any roots that look dark and mushy. Roots that are firm and white are healthy, and should not be trimmed off. Once pruned, replant your rue in fresh soil. 

How often should I water my rue?

As mentioned, rue prefers a warm, dry environment. It is not constantly thirsty and would be happy with sparse watering. Perhaps the only maintenance this plant needs is a deep and thorough watering once every three weeks or so – and that is it!

That said, you might need to adjust your watering routine according to your local weather conditions. So, stay up to date with the season and closely monitor your plant’s soil. 

Since root rot is the number one enemy of rue, you need to make sure that you grow it in well-draining soil. For plants grown in containers, make sure that the pots have enough drainage holes for excess water to escape from. Also choose a potting mix that incorporates light materials to prevent compacted soil. Overall, your growing medium must be airy and light to prevent excess water from pooling.

If your rue is planted in the ground, you can add organic compost to ensure that the soil does not become compacted. Loosen the soil a little bit with a shovel and add organic materials like shredded leaves to improve soil aeration. 

Conclusion

Despite their toughness and resilience, rue plants can also fall victim to root rot disease. To prevent this, check your soil regularly and never overwater your plants! Always keep in mind that these old-fashioned herbs are rarely harmed by drought, so they are more likely to survive underwatering than sitting in waterlogged soil.

Image: istockphoto.com / Andres Anibal nuñez cuello

Calibrachoa is a genus of flowering plants native to South America. These trailing, tender perennials are also known by several other nicknames, such as million bells, super bells, and trailing petunia. Calibrachoas are popular for their funnel-shaped flowers that come in many different shades, including lavender, burgundy, orange, pink, yellow, purple, coral, red, and cream. 

What most gardeners love about these beauties, aside from their generous variety of colors, is their speed of growth and their adaptability to varying environmental conditions. Despite these advantages, however, growing a calibrachoa in your own backyard does not imply zero problems. At some point, you might notice their foliage starting to brown and die back, or they may stop producing any flowers.

These issues will naturally leave you scratching your head and wondering why your calibrachoa is dying. Read on to learn about the possible underlying issues and how to combat them right away.

Why is my calibrachoa dying? Common culprits

1. Fertilizer issues

Fertilizers are essential for a plant’s vigorous growth, whether they are applied in the form of organic matter or synthetic versions. They provide your plants – especially those grown in containers – with the complete range of essential macro- and micronutrients. 

As much as we want to pamper our beautiful calibrachoa flowers with the ideal nutrients, we also need to remember that too much of a good thing is not always good – even for our houseplants. Overfertilization can cause an accumulation of salt in the soil, which can burn the roots. And, without healthy roots, a plant’s water and nutrient uptake is compromised, causing the leaves to brown and die.

If too much fertilizer is bad, skipping it completely can also slow the growth of your plants, especially if you are using soil of a poor quality. Nutrient deficiency can leave your plants vulnerable to pests and diseases, so to avoid such issues, you need to make sure that they are getting adequate nutrition. The added nutrients from fertilizers and organic compost will help boost flower production and encourage bushier growth of foliage. 

2. Lack of sunlight

Calibrachoas need lots of sunshine to grow to their full potential. These evergreens like four to eight hours of full sunlight per day. If these conditions are not met, your plants will not be able to carry on their metabolic processes adequately, and this will result in wilting and dying leaves.

If you think a lack of light is the culprit behind your dying plant, the simple solution is to move it to an area that gets more sunlight. Your calibrachoa will appreciate an area or window that faces east, west, or south. 

3. Fungal leaf spot

If you notice unusual brown spots on the leaves of your calibrachoa, then it is likely infected with leaf spot disease. You might also notice these spots growing larger over time, forming necrotic lesions on the affected leaves.

But what causes leaf spot disease? And how can you protect your calibrachoa from fungal infection?

The fungal spores that cause leaf spots thrive in warm, humid environments. These pathogens cling onto wet leaf surfaces and reproduce quickly, causing great damage to the foliage.

So how do you treat fungal leaf spot in your calibrachoa? Pruning and applying fungicides are generally the best solutions to control such infections. 

First, trim and destroy the infected leaves. Also pick up any fallen leaves from the ground and burn them. This will prevent any spores from spreading into the ground and infecting other healthy plants.

Once the damaged plant parts are removed, you can then apply fungicide or neem oil to the remaining leaves. During the treatment period, make sure that the infected calibrachoa is isolated from your other plants.

4. Root rot disease

Root rot is a serious yet common plant disease that can also affect your calibrachoa. Plants affected with root rot will develop mushy, deteriorating roots that release a foul odor.

Soil-borne fungi such as Fusarium spp., Pythium spp., Rhizoctonia solani, and Phytophthora spp. can cause fungal root rot disease in most plants. Since these pathogens thrive in wet environments, root rot commonly affects plants that have been sitting too long in waterlogged soil. Some signs of root rot include browning and wilting leaves, branch dieback, new leaves that look paler and smaller, stunted growth, and significant leaf drop.

Unfortunately, root rot is an underground issue, which makes it challenging to diagnose without digging up the whole plant. 

The disease can be triggered in many ways – the cause can be one or a combination of the following factors:

• Overwatering: While plants like calibrachoas need moist soil to thrive, giving them excessive amounts of water can drown the roots and attract fungal pathogens. Calibrachoas prefer the soak-and-dry method of watering, so giving them a drink once a week is usually enough to keep them healthy.

• Poor drainage: Using compacted or clay-like soil with poor drainage can have detrimental effects on your calibrachoas as these soils tend to retain too much water. The same is true for pots without drainage holes. If you are using soil and pots without adequate drainage, your calibrachoas will manifest the same symptoms as if they were overwatered.

• Using a drip tray or saucer: Drip trays and saucers are generally discouraged as they can prevent excess water from draining out of the bottom of the pot. As mentioned, the goal is to make the soil moist, but not watery, and using trays or saucers can potentially defeat the purpose of the pot’s drainage holes.

How to save your calibrachoa from root rot

If you suspect that your calibrachoa is struggling with root rot disease, the first thing you need to do is to check its roots. Gently lift the plant from its pot and closely assess the severity of the damage.

If most of the roots are still firm and white, then it is probably possible to revive your calibrachoa. First, prune any decaying roots that look dark or mushy, as well as any leaves and branches that have turned brown. Leave the healthy-looking parts attached to the plant.

The next step is to clean the remaining roots under running water to remove the infected soil and debris. Discard the old soil along with the pruned plant parts. Do not forget to thoroughly wash and disinfect your gardening tools once you are done.

Lastly, transfer your plant to fresh, well-draining soil. To avoid root rot in the future, make sure that your pots have drainage holes. It is also highly recommended to use a potting mix that contains peat moss and other organic materials, as this will improve the soil’s aeration and prevent compaction.

How often should I water my calibrachoa? 

For optimal growth, a fully-established calibrachoa should be watered thoroughly once a week, while seedlings should be watered every other day. Also check the soil daily – it must be allowed to dry completely (but not become bone dry) before your next watering.

Common pests that attack calibrachoa  

The leaves of your calibrachoa are also a favorite among certain destructive pests, including thrips, aphids, and mites. These tiny insects suck the nutrients from plant tissue and cause irreversible damage to the foliage. Severely infested calibrachoas will have leaf holes, leaf discolorations, and leaf distortions. These plants will eventually lose their vigor and die.

Thus, it is important to check the leaves regularly for any visible insect activity. You can also use organic pesticides like neem oil as a preventative care strategy or as a treatment.  

What causes a calibrachoa to stop blooming?

If your calibrachoa fails to bloom, it does not necessarily mean it is dying. Often, this has something to do with too much nitrogen in the soil. Nitrogen is a macronutrient essential for foliage growth; however, high amounts of nitrogen will not be beneficial for flower production. 

To promote blooming, the fertilizer ratio must be 20-10-20. For the best results, make sure to use a slow-release formula to allow continuous feeding of your plants. 

Ways to revive a dying calibrachoa 

There are several steps you need to take if you want to nurture your calibrachoa back to health. Generally, gardeners are more successful at saving a dying plant if the intervention is early. So, make sure to act quickly if you notice any unusual symptoms or changes in your plant’s foliage.

First, you need to understand the reason your plants are suddenly dying. Could it be overwatering? A fungal disease? Get to the bottom of this so you can identify the most effective solution to combat the issue.

Next, apply the solutions mentioned in this guide. For example, if the issue is caused by root rot disease, you will need to prune back the damaged stems and roots and apply the appropriate treatments. 

Lastly, make sure to provide your plants with the correct cultural care. This includes proper watering, adequate sunlight, nutrient-dense and well-draining soil, and correct temperatures. If your calibrachoas are healthy and well cared for, serious instances of fungal diseases and infestations will be greatly reduced.

Conclusion

In summary, the most common causes of a dying calibrachoa are fungal diseases, overwatering, and a lack of proper care. Hopefully, this guide will help you address these issues as soon as possible, so that you can revive your beautiful flowers.

Image: istockphoto.com / BlueSkye Creative Inc.

Purple waffle plants, as the name suggests, are special due to their purplish, waffle-textured leaves. They are also known by several other names, such as metal leaf plant, red flame ivy, waffle plant, and red ivy. Their cascading foliage makes for great indoor or patio decor, whether grown in a hanging basket or as a tabletop plant.

But, when their leaves begin to look crispy with browned tips or edges, these plants are clearly not in their best shape. There are many possible reasons your waffle plant might begin to look like it is dying, with underwatering being the leading cause.

Read on to learn what causes purple waffle plants to develop crispy leaves, and what you can do to help your plant bounce back to health! 

Purple waffle plant care basics

If you are looking for a tropical plant with exotic beauty to improve your living space, then you might find the purple waffle plant a good option. What most gardeners love about this tropical perennial is its unique oval leaves, which spread beautifully in different shades of purple. At first glance, you might consider the crinkly texture of their leaves similar to that of a waffle, which is how these plants got their nickname.

The bold, purple color and exotic texture are the greatest features of this plant that make it so special. But do not feel intimidated by this unique appearance – these plants are actually quite easy to care for.

The number one thing you need to understand when caring for these tropical beauties is proper watering. Purple waffle plants love moisture, but they do not like overwatered soil. Growers are advised to test the top two inches of soil with a finger or a soil moisture meter to determine its level of dryness and avoid under- or overwatering. Under normal weather conditions, these plants are happy with once-weekly watering. However, during dry periods, you may need to increase your plant’s hydration to protect it from dehydration.

And what about sunlight? Yes – purple waffle plants need a bit of sunshine, but they generally do not do well in full, direct sunlight. Hence, they are best placed on a patio or in any shaded area in your home to protect their delicate leaves from burning.

The soil type and quality matter, too! Like most houseplants, purple waffles prefer a moist, well-draining, nutrient-rich soil. Avoid using compact or sandy soil; neither of these will be appropriate. Additionally, keep your fertilizer application and watering habits in check! To enrich the soil, you can add fertilizer and compost several times a year – particularly during the plant’s growing season.

Purple waffle plant crispy leaves – common causes

Brown, crispy leaves should never be taken lightly. Not only are they unsightly; they are also signs of distress in your plant, indicating either extreme moisture loss or injury which requires your immediate attention. 

To troubleshoot the crispy leaves of your purple waffle plant, check out the most common causes summarized below:

1. Underwatering

When it comes to caring for tropical perennials like the purple waffle plant, adequate watering is really important. These plants are used to living in warm, humid conditions, and this means they grow best in moist soil.

Issues will arise if your plant does not get sufficient water, particularly during the dry season. When the soil becomes extremely dry, the roots will not be able to cope with the plant’s moisture requirements. The elevated temperatures during this season cause the leaves to lose a lot of moisture through transpiration, and because the roots are unable to replenish the lost moisture, the leaves will turn brown and crispy from dehydration.

The leaves of an underwatered purple waffle will also droop and wilt as the plant tissue loses turgidity. In the long run, the affected plant will stop growing to reserve its remaining resources for survival. If the neglect continues, it will eventually die.

Usually, it is easier to revive an underwatered plant than an overwatered one. All you need to do is increase your watering, particularly during the hotter seasons. Also keep an eye on the soil – does it look crumbly and very light in color? Then it is probably bone-dry. To solve this, give the plant a good soak in a sink full of water, until all of the soil has been saturated. Once done, make sure that any excess water can drain out, to prevent any standing water around the roots.

From then on, make sure your purple waffle plant receives about an inch of water every week. During the dry season, you might need to increase this amount and give your plant a drink every two days or so. But make sure never to overwater it – purple waffles do not like to sit in overly saturated soil. As mentioned before, assess the soil visually or feel the top two inches with your finger to know whether it is dry or damp. Using a soil moisture meter can also help to give you a more accurate reading.

2. Using terracotta pots

Terracotta pots are classic containers with neutral colors and elegant shapes. However, you need to keep in mind that these pots are porous and can quickly absorb moisture from the soil, making them the ideal option for plants that prefer dry soil. However, moisture-loving plants like the purple waffle might not appreciate the breathable features of these pots. 

Instead, consider using plastic or ceramic pots, as these containers help the soil retain more moisture. Just make sure your pots have enough drainage holes to prevent standing water and root rot.

3. Low humidity

If the air in your growing area is too dry, there is a chance that your plants will turn brown and crispy. Purple waffle plants prefer a bit of humidity to thrive, just like in their native tropical environment. Unfortunately, achieving and maintaining the right humidity for your plants can be challenging, especially during the winter months. 

Plants that are exposed to less-than-ideal humidity will lose moisture daily. Similar to underwatering, symptoms like wrinkling, browning, and wilting will start to manifest. 

To solve this issue, a little help from a humidifier will usually suffice. Simply adjust the humidifier to achieve the optimal humidity level in your indoor space. You can also move your purple waffle plant to your bathroom, as this is the most humid room in the house. Another alternative you might consider is misting. However, of all these methods, using a humidifier is the safest and most effective to improve your indoor climate.

Lastly, do not place your purple waffle plant near heat sources like furnaces, heating stoves, or unit heaters. Plants that sit too close (about nine feet or less) to a heating device will develop brown leaf tips and dry foliage. As much as possible, we need to protect their delicate leaves from heat stress and dry air to prevent dehydration.

4. Too much sunlight exposure

Purple waffle plants like partial or indirect sunlight to maintain their bushy foliage. Too much sunlight can harm their leaves, causing them to turn brown and dry out. This issue is commonly known as leaf scorch.

Leaf scorch is a physiological issue that affects purple waffle plants due to unfavorable growing conditions. When your plants are unable to absorb enough water to keep them hydrated in the intense summer heat, the leaves lose their moisture and become vulnerable to injury. Unfortunately, once the leaves have turned brown and died, they can never be revived or return to their healthy color.

To revive a purple waffle plant with papery leaves, you first need to remove the dead sections to encourage new growth. Most importantly, transfer the plant to an area with more filtered sunlight. If it is planted outdoors, you might need to consider transplanting it to a shadier location.

Conclusion

Leaves that have turned brown and crispy are a clear sign that your purple waffle plant is losing too much moisture. Your priority is to identify and address the underlying issue to save the plant from dying – whether the cause is long-term neglect or more recent drought. Hopefully, this guide can help you get to the bottom of the problem in time to nurture your dying plant back to perfect health!

Image: istockphoto.com / Roman Tiraspolsky

Viburnum Branches Dying – Causes and Fix

Viburnum is considered a tough and disease-resistant shrub. However, those that are not well cared-for can become vulnerable to plant stress, which can cause damage to their foliage and stems.

Fungal diseases of the roots and leaves are the most prevalent issues that can kill viburnums. Improper watering, a lack of air circulation, and incorrect lighting levels are all factors that can contribute to weakening these plants, reducing their lushness and vigor. Branches will start to brown as the nutrient supply from the roots is cut off, eventually leading to the collapse of the entire plant.

So, what are the causes of dying viburnum branches? Let us look at the possible contributors, one by one, and learn how we can fix them.

Why are my viburnum branches dying?

1. Botryosphaeria canker disease

Botryosphaeria is a type of plant disease that causes cankers in viburnum branches. This fungal disease generally starts with one dying branch, and gradually spreads through the entire plant. 

As the pathogen continues to devour and kill your plant, you might notice the affected stems or branches starting to develop black or dead areas. This is where the fungus is producing fruiting bodies. Eventually, the injury will start to form girdles on the affected branches, cutting the supply of water and nutrients from the roots to the leaves of your viburnum. At this point, the plant loses its vigor and stops producing new leaves until it dies.

How to fix botryosphaeria canker disease:

Unfortunately, treating this disease can be challenging. While you can use fungicides as a preventative measure, there is no cure available to eradicate botryosphaeria. Severely affected viburnums are often best discarded to prevent the disease from spreading to other plants.

Hence, your best chance of winning against the disease is to prevent it in the first place. Pruning back your viburnum might help in most cases, but most importantly, you should nurture your plant properly to ensure that it does not contract the disease. 

2. Fungal leaf spots

Fungal leaf spots are caused by fungal spores that thrive in damp, humid environments. These pathogens usually infect viburnums that are watered with overhead sprinklers. The spores cling onto the wet leaf surfaces of the plant, creating small, dark, water-soaked spots. Soon, these spots enlarge as the fungi begin to reproduce, forming bigger necrotic lesions on the leaf tissue. Without proper intervention, the spores can quickly engulf entire leaves and branches of your viburnum, sending the plant to an untimely demise.

How to fix fungal leaf spot disease:

To treat fungal leaf spots in viburnums, consider applying neem oil or copper fungicides to the affected leaves. Make sure to apply the treatment as soon as you notice the symptoms, and repeat the treatment every ten to 14 days until your plant recovers. Because wet environments attract and promote fungal growth, avoid watering the plant from overhead so that you can keep the leaves dry.

For severely infected viburnums, it is best to discard the plants to prevent the fungal disease from spreading. Also make sure to clean and sterilize your garden tools before and after use. 

3. Downy mildew

Another type of fungal disease that thrives in damp environments is downy mildew. This plant disease is caused by Plasmopara viburni, and one of its many symptoms is the appearance of angular spots between the leaf veins. Fungal spores can cause the infected leaves to turn brown or red, shrivel, and then die. Another tell-tale sign you might notice is that the undersides of the leaves are engulfed with a white, fuzzy mold.

How to fix downy mildew in viburnums: 

The best remedy to keep your viburnums safe from mildew is to practice proper watering. As with other fungal-related issues, wet leaf surfaces can attract fungal pathogens. So, instead of overhead watering, water your viburnums directly in the soil.

Lastly, gather and destroy any diseased leaves and stems from the plant. Do not leave any dead leaves on the ground, especially during the rainy season, as this will allow the spores to spread.

4. Armillaria root rot

Armillaria root rot is caused by fungal spores that mainly attack the shrub’s root system. Early signs might include wilting and yellowing leaves, later followed by stunted growth, leaf drop, and dieback of the stems or branches. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to diagnose Armillaria root rot in viburnums, especially as the symptoms are a bit similar to those of overwatering and other fungal issues.

How to fix Armillaria root rot in viburnums:

Sadly, there are no absolute treatments available for Armillaria root rot. However, you can manage the spread of the disease by removing and burning the infected stems and leaves. Sunlight and air exposure can also help kill the fungal spores present in the soil. 

5. Sunburn

Viburnum leaves can also turn brown and die due to overexposure to sunlight. Leaf scorch or sunburn can affect any shade-loving plants, including your beautiful viburnum shrubs, especially during the hot summer months.

Aside from the sun’s intense ultraviolet rays, dry winds and elevated temperatures can also cause excessive moisture loss from the plant’s leaves. Its roots will also struggle to obtain enough water to supply the drying leaves, resulting in browning leaf tissue.

How to fix sunburned viburnums:

Unlike fungal diseases, sunburn or leaf scorch is not a disease but rather a sign that your plant is in distress. In most cases, the issue can be corrected by moving it to partial shade, or you can add an artificial shade structure to protect your plant’s foliage from the intense summer heat.

The sad news, though, is that the dehydrated parts of the foliage will never return to green, so it is best to prune the damaged parts and wait for your viburnum to recover. Make sure that it receives enough moisture during the hot season to keep it well hydrated.

6. Aphids and thrips

Viburnums can also be assaulted by aphids and thrips. The infestation becomes evident when you notice unusual spots on the leaves, along with other symptoms like black sooty mold, honeydew-like substances on the leaf surface, a silvery appearance on the older leaves, and the presence of tiny insects crawling on the undersides of the leaves.

Pests can weaken and distort your viburnum’s leaves. Green leaves might start turning brown as the tiny bugs feast on their sap. Without proper pest control, aphids and thrips can eventually overrun your viburnums and kill them.

How to fix aphid and thrip infestations:

First of all, the early stages of an infestation can be managed effectively by giving the plant a strong blast of water from your garden hose. This should dislodge most of the insects from the leaves, leaving only a few which you can quickly eradicate with organic treatments. We highly recommend using insecticidal soap or horticultural oils to get rid of adult insects and eggs. 

Natural predators are excellent and safe solutions, too. Treat your garden as an ecosystem by adding beneficial insects that enjoy eating aphids and thrips. Some of the natural enemies of these pests include lady beetles, spiders, lacewings, mantises, and wasps. 

For severe infestations, chemical pesticides might be your last and only hope. The only downside of this solution is that they also kill beneficial insects. Pesticides are considered toxic to both humans and animals, so use your best judgment before resorting to this method.

7. Viburnum leaf beetle

Viburnum leaf beetles are destructive pests that feed exclusively on the leaves of viburnum shrubs. These invasive insects cause significant damage to the foliage by creating visible bite-holes on the leaves. Long periods of infestation can skeletonize your plant, cause dieback of the leaves and stems, and eventually bring your viburnum to an early demise.

How to fix viburnum leaf beetle infestation:

Both horticultural oil and insecticidal soap have been proven effective in eradicating most of the eggs before they hatch. However, adult insects can be a bit challenging as they tend to be more mobile. The best way to kill the adult beetles is to use contact insecticides such as permethrin, acephate, deltamethrin, bifenthrin, carbaryl, cyfluthrin, or lambda-cyhalothrin. 

You can also use systemic products like imidacloprid and clothianidin as soil drenches to control the infestation. However, these chemicals are best applied after your shrubs are done flowering, to avoid harming any beneficial insects.   

Can a dying viburnum be saved?

Yes, it is possible to save a dying viburnum, depending on the severity of the damage. First, check the shrub’s branches. If you only see a few browned branches, then your viburnum should bounce back easily. What you need to do is to prune back the dead stems or branches; then make sure to address the underlying issue appropriately.

However, if most of the branches have become brown and brittle, then saving the dying viburnum is probably futile. It is best to discard the diseased plant to protect the remaining healthy plants in your garden.

Conclusion

Seeing your beautiful viburnum on the brink of death can be devastating. Browning or dying branches are caused primarily by fungal diseases, followed by a lack of proper care. 

But, do not let this traumatic experience hinder your gardening goals – you might still save your precious shrub with early intervention! If, however, you are too late to save it, you may need to start over with a new plant. Hopefully, in this case, you will have learned through experience how to prevent the same issues in the future.

Image: istockphoto.com / Trygve Finkelsen

Tired of seeing those bare patches on your lawn or under the trees in your backyard? Then planting pachysandra might help you improve the aesthetic of your outdoor space. These shade-loving evergreens are well known for their rich green, lush foliage, making them the ideal plants to carpet the shadier parts of your garden.

If you are already growing pachysandra plants, it can be unsightly – not to mention alarming – if they suddenly start turning yellow. This discoloration is generally a red flag and should thus not be taken lightly. Improper watering, pests, nutrient deficiency, and inappropriate soil pH are the leading causes of yellowing pachysandra leaves. Thankfully, though, you can correct these issues with early intervention and proper care. All the details are further explained in this guide. 

Pachysandra plant care overview

Pachysandra is an evergreen perennial that is commonly used as ground cover in hard-to-plant areas. This dwarf shrub can really spread out nicely, like a dense, dark-green carpet, and is known to adapt well to dry, shady areas, particularly beneath tree canopies, on shady slopes, or in shrub beds. This perennial also produces individual pistillate flowers that, although not showy at first glance, are quite interesting upon closer inspection. 

Pachysandras require proper spacing to grow well – ideally about nine to 12 inches between plants. Replenishing the planted beds yearly with organic matter and fertilizers is also important to keep them lush and green. 

These herbaceous evergreens prefer slightly acidic and moist soil to help them grow into a dense landscape cover. When planting your pachysandra for the first time, keep in mind that the young plants will need constant watering until their roots have become fully established. 

Under normal weather conditions, mature pachysandras only need to be watered once a week. During dry seasons, it is recommended to give them a good soak of about one inch of water, rather than light sprinklings. Although these groundcover plants are drought-tolerant, keeping their soil consistently moist will help them spread faster.

Pachysandra yellowing leaves – common causes and fixes

Any gardener knows that yellowing leaves on their plants is usually a sign of trouble. There are many possible reasons your pachysandras might suddenly display unhealthy-looking foliage. Check out the common causes and fixes below to learn how to revive your ailing plant:

1. Too much sunlight

Sunlight is essential for plants to carry out photosynthesis, which is the process responsible for keeping their foliage lush and green. But, as the common saying goes, too much of a good thing can be harmful, rather than helpful – and prolonged exposure to full direct sunlight can cause irreversible damage to your plants. At first, the leaves might turn pale green, and then gradually transition to yellow until they die and fall off.

Pachysandras are shade-loving plants that cannot tolerate the intense heat of the sun – the ultraviolet rays can quickly bleach or burn their leaves. To fix this issue, simply move your pachysandra to an area with partial shade.

2. Waterlogged soil

Waterlogged soil is an enemy of most plants. The condition is undesirable because it drowns the roots and inhibits the plant’s nutrient and oxygen uptake. Moreover, overly saturated soil can promote the growth of fungal spores that will attack the compromised roots, thus hastening the death of your lovely evergreens.

There are several ways to fix or avoid waterlogged soil. For starters, you need to stop overwatering your plants. Pachysandras usually only require once-weekly watering. Keep in mind that the fully-established plants are also drought-tolerant, meaning they will have a better chance of surviving underwatering than overwatering.

Another important factor to check is the type of soil used. If your pachysandras are planted in compacted or clay-like soil, they will likely struggle with standing water. The solution is to provide a ditch for your groundcover plants, to quickly drain any excess water. You can also consider transplanting your pachysandras into another soil with better drainage and aeration.  

3. Lack of iron

Iron is an important micronutrient for the pachysandra’s leaves. It plays a role in the plant’s metabolic processes, including the synthesis of chlorophyll. Without sufficient amounts of iron, plants cannot grow properly or healthily. Iron deficiency also makes your evergreens susceptible to iron chlorosis.

In most cases, adding chelated iron powder or blood meal into the ground should solve the iron deficiency for your plants. You might also need to check the pH level of your soil, as this can affect their ability to absorb nutrients.

4. Soil pH is too high

As mentioned above, the wrong pH level can compromise plants’ absorption of essential micronutrients available in the soil. For pachysandras, the optimal pH range is between 5.5 and 6.5. In other words, these shrubs need slightly acidic soil to thrive. 

However, if the pH level is too high, the plant will not be able to absorb nutrients, no matter how many fertilizers or supplements you add to the soil. The result is a nutrient-deficient pachysandra, hence the yellowing of all its foliage. 

To solve this issue, you might need to consider purchasing a pH test kit to check the soil’s pH level. If the pH is too high, you can remedy it by adding milled sphagnum peat to bring the pH down to its correct values. You can also consider other chemicals like sulfuric acid or aluminum sulfate to effectively reduce the soil’s pH.

5. Root-knot nematode infestation

Yellowing leaves alongside other symptoms like wilting, stunted growth, and defoliation might also indicate a pest infestation. Root-knot nematodes are one of the several minute pests that can affect your pachysandras. These worm-like organisms attack the root system of the plant, causing distortions and knots or galls on the affected roots.

One of the most effective ways to beat the infestation is to apply liquid fish emulsion to the soil to keep the nematodes off your plants. Also consider adding more compost to the soil, specifically leaf mold, to attract beneficial fungi that can kill the pesky nematodes.

6. Spider mite infestation

Spider mites are a common enemy in the garden. Pachysandras struggling with spider mite infestation tend to have visible webbing on the leaves that looks like spider webs. If you do not act quickly, these tiny enemies can quickly destroy the health of your plants. Spider mites feed on the plants’ leaf sap, causing the leaves to turn yellow and become distorted.

To deal with a spider mite infestation, first dislodge the insects from the leaves by spraying them with a strong jet of water from a garden hose. Next, spray the leaves with diluted insecticidal soap to kill the remaining pests. You can also mix water and 70 percent rubbing alcohol to eradicate the mites. Simply dip a cotton swab into the alcohol mixture and use this to wipe the affected leaves and instantly kill any visible pests. Repeat the steps every four to seven days until your pachysandras are pest-free.

7. Scale infestation

Pachysandras are susceptible to scale infestation, too. Yellowing leaves may be an early sign of this, and can be followed by stunted growth, drooping, defoliation, and overall loss of vigor. To make the situation worse, these pests also excrete a honeydew-like substance on the leaves’ surface that attracts ants and sooty mold.

Scales look like little bumps on your plants’ leaves, with rounded, waxy shells. Their bodies can be yellow, brown, white, or black, and range from one tenth to two fifths of an inch in diameter. Like most pachysandra pests, scales suck the sap from the stems and leaves, leaving visible damage on your plants.

Here is one quick solution to get rid of the scales. First, rub the affected leaves with cotton dipped in soapy water or 70% rubbing alcohol to remove the pests. Next, spray your plants with horticultural oil to suffocate the remaining scales in their shells. You can also prune off the damaged branches or leaves. Once you have applied these remedies, check on the progress of your plants every few days. Repeat the treatments until all the pests are gone. 

Conclusion

Pachysandra leaves can turn yellow for various reasons. To bring back the lush green color of your favorite ground cover, you will need to identify the underlying issue and then address it right away. Hopefully, with the lessons learned during this process, you can prevent the same foliage problem in the future!

Image: istockphoto.com / krisblackphotography

Dieffenbachia, otherwise known as the dumb cane plant, is a genus of tropical perennials commonly grown as houseplants. This herbaceous plant is known to be poisonous, causing swelling of the mouth and throat when ingested. Although it rarely kills, the plant juices can cause speech difficulties due to oral irritation, hence the name “dumb cane” or “mother-in-law’s tongue.”

Despite being toxic, many gardeners have fallen in love with the plant’s large, green leaves scattered with cream blotches. Furthermore, it is also a plant that is quite easy to care for. That said, it is not immune to certain problems, and you are probably reading this because your own dieffenbachia currently appears to be dying.

So, why is your dieffenbachia dying? Read on, as we might have the answers you are looking for!

Dying dieffenbachia – signs to look out for

Dieffenbachias often reveal distress through changes in their foliage. There can be several reasons your evergreen is suddenly looking lifeless, from improper watering to rootbound problems. These are some of the signs you might see:

• Browning leaves, particularly along the tips and edges 
• Yellowing leaves
• Leaves becoming dry and brittle
• Lack of new growth
• Curling and wilting leaves

Why is my dieffenbachia dying? Common causes

1. Natural aging

As with all living things, dieffenbachias go through the process of aging. You might notice the lower leaves of the plant starting to droop or turn yellow, and this does not necessarily mean it is dying. The yellowing of the lower leaves is part of the plant’s natural life cycle and should not be cause for serious concern. You should only worry if the upper leaves are also dying.

When these dieffenbachia leaves begin to fall off, you may cut back the foliage and stems to encourage new growth. You can also pinch off some of the drooping leaves to keep your plant in tip-top shape.

2. Overwatering

Dieffenbachias prefer their soil to be slightly moist, but never waterlogged. Their roots need to breathe oxygen, too, and this can only be achieved when there are enough air pockets in the soil. Without these, the roots will slowly die. The presence of soil-borne fungi can also hasten their deterioration through a common disease known as root rot.

To prevent overwatering, your plant must be thoroughly watered and the soil allowed to dry out before the next watering. Check the soil with your finger regularly so that you can feel when your dieffenbachia is thirsty. Additionally, make sure to use soil and pots with good drainage to prevent any standing water around the roots. 

3. Underwatering

Another reason your dieffenbachia might appear to be dying is a lack of water. Moisture loss and extreme dehydration can kill any plant if left for too long. The ugly consequences of underwatering might first manifest as yellowing or browning leaves. Your plant might also start drooping, and have dry, brittle foliage. Sparse watering can also cause the soil to become extremely dry, crumbly, and light in color due to long periods of neglect. Eventually, a dieffenbachia that does not receive sufficient water will lose its vigor and die.

As mentioned previously, the surefire rule for proper watering is to check the soil regularly. Aside from the finger test, a soil moisture meter can also be used, especially if you prefer more accurate readings. Dieffenbachias do not like to be underwatered or overwatered, and keeping your soil in check will help you know the best time to water these tropical perennials.

4. Nutrient deficiency

Fertile soil is essential for plants to thrive, and unfortunately the soil in our backyards or in pots does not guarantee them the complete spectrum of macronutrients. For this reason, adding compost or fertilizer is an important aspect of plant care.

Dieffenbachias that are deprived of nutrients will not grow healthily or optimally. Yellowing of the leaves, also known as chlorosis, is a common tell-tale sign of a nutrient-deficient plant. Eventually, it will lose its vigor and become more susceptible to other diseases and infestation.

To fix a nutrient deficiency, make sure that your dieffenbachia is potted in well-draining, nutrient-rich soil. You can enrich your growing medium by following any of these recipes:

• Use one part potting soil and one part peat moss
• Use equal parts potting soil, peat moss, and perlite
• Use one part peat moss and one part perlite

5. Rootbound issues

Similar to other woody plants, dieffenbachias can also become rootbound if they have not been repotted for a long time. As you might know, dieffenbachias can develop an extensive root system over the years, and their roots will eventually start popping out above the soil’s surface and through the pot’s drainage holes. 

If the root ball is taking up most of the space in the pot, there will no longer be sufficient soil to provide enough nutrients and moisture for your plant. A dense ball of impenetrable roots becomes impossible to water or even feed, causing stunted growth, defoliation, and yellowing or dying leaves. Dieffenbachias that are left in their smaller pots will struggle more and more to survive.

Hence, to prevent rootbound issues, the solution is to transplant your dieffenbachia to a bigger pot as soon as you notice the roots starting to outgrow their container. You can also divide your plant if you want to control its size and avoid using bigger pots. Once you have repotted it, make sure that it is watered and fertilized adequately. With proper care, it should bounce back in a very short time.

6. Too much sunlight

In their natural habitat, dieffenbachias grow under a canopy of trees where they receive filtered sunlight. Hence, these tropical evergreens grow better in areas with a bit of shade, protected from the sun’s intense ultraviolet rays.

However, inexperienced growers sometimes assume that more sunlight always means more growth. While sunlight is healthy and essential for plants’ photosynthesis, dieffenbachias’ leaves are delicate and should not be exposed to full sunlight or very high temperatures. Direct sunlight can quickly scorch the leaves and turn them brown or yellow. 

A quick fix to avoid sunburn is simply to move your plants to a semi-shaded area or near a window facing north or east. If indoors, you can also hang a drape in the window to reduce the intensity of the sunlight coming in. Just make sure that there is ample light and the growing area is not too dark for your plants, either.

7. Low temperatures

Since dieffenbachias are tropical plants, they normally thrive in temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything below this range can be harmful to them. If their leaves begin to droop, fall off, or turn yellow, then the environmental temperature might be too cold for them.

These tips should help you protect your dieffenbachias from sudden low temperatures:

• Avoid placing your plants in a drafty location.
• Move your plants away from cooling or heating vents.
• During the cold season, do not leave your dieffenbachias near an open door or window. Consider moving them to the center of your home, or to another area away from cold drafts.  

Transplant shock in dieffenbachia 

Have you recently moved your dieffenbachia to a new pot? Then the plant’s dying leaves might be caused by transplant shock. This reaction is nothing too out of the ordinary, since most plants experience some stress when repotted. Just make sure that your dieffenbachia is well hydrated before repotting and that most of the roots remain intact during the process.

Most importantly, give your plant time to rest and recover from the process while providing the best possible care. Its soil should be consistently moist, but not waterlogged. Avoid applying fertilizers at this time, because the roots will not be ready to absorb additional nutrients. Once the roots are firmly established, your dieffenbachia should easily return to its former glory. 

Dieffenbachia looks weepy

One of the many unique features of dieffenbachia, or dumb cane, is its tendency to produce droplets on the leaf tips, as if it is weeping. This process is called guttation, and it generally happens when the plant is overwatered. 

Too much watering can cause the roots to absorb more water than the plant actually needs. To get rid of the excess fluid, the water buildup is excreted through the leaf margins in the form of sap. Unfortunately, this sap can be poisonous to both humans and animals. Touching it can cause skin irritation, while ingestion can cause swelling of the mouth, tongue, and throat. If you have pets and small children at home, these plants may not be the most suitable home decor for you.

How do you revive a dying dieffenbachia?

More often than not, improper watering is the leading cause of a plant’s early demise – and that goes for dieffenbachia, too. Prevention is always better than cure, but if you think you have made some plant care mistakes and you want to save your dying dieffenbachia, here is what you need to do:

• If the issue is related to underwatering, simply give your dehydrated plant a good soak. Put the pot in a sink filled with water and let it sit there for about 30 minutes. Once the soil has become saturated, lift the pot to allow the excess water to drain. Return the plant to its usual spot and monitor its progress.
• If the plant is overwatered, you might still be able to save it, depending on the severity of the root damage. If you happened to catch the issue in its earliest stage, then the damage is likely minimal and most of the roots are still healthy. In this case, all you need to do is repot your plant in fresh soil. Make sure that both your growing medium and your pot are well-draining, to prevent standing water.
• Give your dieffenbachia plenty of bright, filtered sunlight, and do not keep it in a dark area. Use artificial grow lights to supplement its lighting requirements, if necessary. 

Conclusion

It can be heartbreaking to see your dieffenbachia losing its vigor and dying. But, with early intervention and proper care, you have a very good chance of saving your precious plant. Hopefully, this guide will help you remedy your plant care mistakes and avoid the same issues in the future!

Image: istockphoto.com / MilosGagic

Ninebarks are among the many deciduous shrubs that are popular for landscape decoration. They are loved for their pink and white flowers that pop beautifully in contrast with their dense, bright foliage.

Despite being tough plants, ninebark shrubs might occasionally face some issues. Improper care is the most common reason these attractive plants start losing their health. In many cases, they might display browning and wilting leaves, which can make them look as if they are dying. But do not lose heart! With early intervention, most plant problems are rarely fatal for ninebarks. 

So, if you have a sickly looking ninebark and you are wondering why it is dying, keep reading as we dig into the details below.

Ninebark plant overview

At some point, you have probably come across a garden of beautiful shrubs adorned with white, cup-shaped flowers, vivid foliage, and bark that peels during winter. Ninebarks, also known as Physocarpus, are deciduous shrubs commonly used for border planting or landscaping due to their abundant flowers.

Ninebark is a genus of flowering shrubs that belongs to the Rosaceae family. The plant typically grows with multiple stems which are densely arched, making them a favorite nesting site for many birds. Ninebarks can grow between five and 12 feet in height and spread between three and 12 feet. 

Another interesting fact about these shrubs is that their leaves can vary in shape and size, despite growing on the same bush. Plant breeders have also created several beautiful varieties of ninebark that come with different foliage colors, ranging from orange, bright gold, deep purple and maroon, to nearly black. Its clusters of flowers, which come in pink or white, typically bloom during the late spring or summer, creating a beautiful contrast with the foliage.

Ninebarks are not only pretty – they are extremely versatile, too! Gardeners can benefit from having ninebarks in the garden as these plants are great  at attracting pollinators such as bees and butterflies. Additionally, ninebarks are not on the list of favorite snacks for most animals. Deer and curious rabbits might occasionally have a taste, but in most cases, the plants are avoided by wildlife.

Want to grow your own ninebarks in the backyard? Then here are more interesting facts you should know:

Ninebarks are tough plants, as long as they are grown within hardiness zones 3 to 7. They can tolerate almost any type of soil, whether it is clay, sandy, dry, compact, or loose. They can also grow in both full sunlight or partial shade. On top of that, ninebarks are known to be resistant to most plant diseases and pests. 

With all these amazing features, it would appear to be almost impossible to kill a ninebark plant. However, all plants have their limits, and you cannot neglect them for too long. Without adequate growing conditions, even tough plants like ninebarks will eventually struggle and die.

Why is my ninebark dying? Signs to look out for

Although ninebarks are fairly tolerant and hard to kill, they are not completely immune to certain issues. If your beautiful shrub suddenly loses its vigor, it is likely caused by long-term neglect and inappropriate growing conditions. 

A ninebark that is struggling with some kind of environmental stress might show one or a combination of these symptoms:

1. Curling leaves

Ninebarks might be hardy, but improper care can make them susceptible to foliar damage. Curling leaves is a sign of a distressed plant, and there are many possible reasons your shrub might display such unhealthy-looking foliage.

A lack of water is often the culprit. Growers who live in busy households can easily forget to water their plants. While ninebarks can temporarily forgive a lack of care and attention, leaving them water-deprived for too long will eventually cause too much loss of moisture. Curling leaves is a clear sign that the shrub is trying to conserve the remaining water in its tissues so it can survive a few more days. 

So, from now on, do not forget to water your plant! Check the soil regularly and water it whenever the top layer becomes dry. 

2. Leaves are turning brown

Ninebark leaves come in a range of different and attractive colors, depending on the variety. However, none of these is brown. Ninebark leaves that are brown and brittle are a sign that your deciduous shrub might be dying.

First of all, the browning of the leaves could indicate that your shrub is not getting enough nutrients from the soil. Ninebarks are generally low-maintenance once they are fully established, but poor soil quality will have a negative effect on their long-term health. Thankfully, this issue can be easily corrected by enriching the soil with compost or all-purpose fertilizer. 

Another possible cause of brown leaves is root damage. When the roots are compromised, so is the ability of the plant to absorb soil nutrients. Water uptake can also be an issue in this instance, hence the brown and drying foliage. 

There are two very common causes of root damage in ninebarks, the first of which is transplant shock. The good news, if this is the cause, is that your shrub will likely bounce back a few weeks after being transplanted, once it has acclimatized to its new environment.

The second cause of root damage is root rot, a fungal disease that affects overwatered plants. Root rot is a serious issue, and severely affected plants are unlikely to recover. The best way to combat root rot is to prevent it in the first place. The rule is simple – never overwater your plants! Although your ninebark is a forgiving plant, it cannot live healthily in waterlogged soil. In most cases, fully established ninebark shrubs will only need watering once a week, since they are fairly drought-tolerant.

3. Not blooming

As mentioned previously, ninebarks are famous not only for their stunning foliage, but also for their abundant blooms. If your plant fails to produce these gorgeous flower clusters in the spring and summer, you might start to wonder whether it is struggling – or even dying.

Failure to bloom can be caused by several issues, from improper watering or inadequate sunlight, to nutrient deficiencies. But, in most cases, the lack of abundant flowers is due to over-pruning the shrub before it starts to bloom. Some growers intentionally prune their ninebarks to achieve a bushier appearance, but the blooms will be sacrificed. Hence, if you need to prune your shrub, make sure to do it after it has finished flowering.

4. Wilting

Wilting often happens when your ninebark is newly planted. It might look unhealthy and on death’s door, but in reality, it is simply adjusting to its news environment and establishing its roots. So do not worry – just give it enough time to become strong and firmly established.  

However, stay vigilant for other possible symptoms, such as yellowing or browning of the leaves, the presence of spots or blotches on the leaves, leaf distortion, or stunted growth. These tell-tale signs are often linked to some serious underlying issues. In that case, check the other symptoms mentioned previously and review your plant care routine.

Common ninebark disease and pests

Fully established ninebark shrubs are generally resilient to most plant pests and diseases. However, without proper upkeep, they can lose their vigor and become vulnerable to certain issues. For example, like any other plant, ninebarks can fall victim to aphid infestation. Thankfully, these pests can be easily managed with natural pesticides like neem oil. 

Unhealthy shrubs might also be attacked by fungal diseases, including leaf spot, fire blight, and powdery mildew. These diseases will not quickly kill a ninebark, as long as the problem is addressed right away. Spray the infected plant with neem oil, fungicide, or other appropriate remedies to kill the fungal spores. Badly infected leaves or branches should also be pruned to prevent the spread of the disease.

When should you prune your ninebark?

Ninebark shrubs do not generally require regular pruning and are best left untouched to maintain their natural shape and bushy growth. However, trimming their old branches once a year may be beneficial to encourage air circulation around their dense foliage. Just make sure not to overdo it, especially if you want abundant flowers. Ninebarks produce their blooms on old wood, so you should only prune them after flowering.

When pruning your ninebark, make sure that only one third of its branches are trimmed. Remove older and damaged stems first, followed by those that are tangled with one another. Thoroughly trim older shrubs close to the ground, preferably before winter, to promote healthy growth of leaves and flowers the next spring.

Lastly, do not worry if your ninebark loses leaves during the winter, as this is the plant’s dormancy period. You might also notice the shrub’s bark exfoliating, which is normal. Your plant will bounce back and bloom beautifully once the winter months are over.

Conclusion

Ninebarks are tough and very forgiving plants, but this does not mean they can survive long-term without proper care. If your ninebark shrub looks sad and you think it may be dying, you probably need to review your watering routine, pruning habits, and overall plant care. Ninebark shrubs are not especially challenging to care for; just ensure the appropriate growing conditions and they should start regenerating their lush foliage in no time!

Image: istockphoto.com / Nadezhda Tonkova

Most gardeners will agree that growing a calathea can be a little bit challenging. Yes, they have exotic and eye-catching foliage worthy of display in your indoor space. But, they can also be fussy plants! They require specific watering, light levels, and fertilizer dosage to stay happy and pretty. This is why calatheas are often not the best plants for newbie growers.

Normally, calatheas close their leaves and point them upwards when the sun goes down, which is why they are nick-named prayer plants. During the day, their leaves will open up a bit and lay flat, which is also normal – as if they are capturing as much light as possible from their environment. 

But – is it normal for calathea leaves to point down? Or does it mean trouble? Let us dig in to understand more about the behavior of this special herbaceous perennial.

Calathea plant overview

Calathea is a beautiful plant that is commonly used as interior decor, both in homes and in offices. Its wide, green leaves are boldly marked with unique stripes and veins, making them particularly eye-catching. When placed indoors, their stunning patterns can create a fresh and tropical vibe in the living space.

Calatheas are native to the tropical rainforests of South and Central America, the West Indies, and Africa. They belong to the Marantaceae family of plants – a family of flowering plants that includes stromanthe, ctenanthe, and maranta species. Overall, the Calathea genus has about 60 different species, so there is definitely a perfect cultivar to suit your taste and preferences.

Aside from their vibrant and beautiful foliage, calatheas are famously known as prayer plants, thanks to their nyctinastic behavior. This unique circadian rhythm allows their intricately-patterned leaves to lower and open up during the day, but when night time arrives, they begin to close and point upwards, like hands clasped in prayer. The purpose of this nyctinasty is not clearly understood by plant experts, but the unique movement is one of the many features that make calatheas special. 

Calathea leaves’ nyctinasty

Gardeners are often amused at how the leaves of their calatheas move throughout the day, as if they have their own agenda. You may well be wondering what triggers these movements, and when to consider them normal.  

Nyctinasty in plants is caused by an organ called the pulvinus at the base of the leaves. This tube-like structure has thin-walled plant tissue responsible for the absorption and release of water. Hence, with the help of this organ, the leaf base can swell or shrink, causing the leaves to move.

Moreover, the varying leaf orientations are also affected by the light intensity that the plant receives. As you might have noticed, calathea leaves are highly sensitive to different lighting levels, and not necessarily to the sunlight’s direction. Hence, their leaves make constant adjustments throughout the day, moving in an upward or downward direction.

The most prominent movements happen during the night. As soon as the sun sets, the leaves begin to change to a vertical position. This allows you to see the vibrant rosy colors underneath the foliage.

You might confuse the nyctinastic behavior of plants with phototropism. Keep in mind, however, that these phenomena are quite different! The phototropic reaction in plants is affected by the direction of sunlight, while nyctinasty is based on the light’s intensity.

Many experts believe that the closing of calatheas’ leaves at night is meant to reduce moisture loss via evaporation. Calatheas are not drought tolerant, so by conserving their water, they can increase their chances of survival.

While calathea leaves might normally lay flat and point in a downward direction during the day, it becomes an issue if they remain flat even at night time. If you notice your calathea leaves pointing down and not closing up after sunset, you might have a distressed plant on your hands. It might also begin to show other unhealthy signs, such as drooping or wilting, and the appearance of brown or brittle leaves. 

Causes of calathea leaves pointing down

If you are quite sure that your calathea plant is in trouble due to its downward-pointing leaves, here is a list of common gardening mistakes that may have likely caused the sad appearance of your plant:

1. Lack of water

Calatheas do not like their roots to remain dry for very long. These plants need adequate moisture to stay happy, and if they are deprived of water, their signs of thirst will show on the leaves. The leaves will likely remain flat and appear droopy throughout the day – even when the sun goes down.

To revive a thirsty-looking calathea, simply provide it with adequate water. Check the soil with your finger before giving your plant a drink, remembering that the soil must be moist but not soggy. Never allow the soil to stay dry for long periods. Watering your plant once a week will usually suffice during normal weather conditions, but you can reduce or increase your watering depending on the dampness or dryness of the soil.

2. Inadequate lighting

Calathea leaves that look a bit limp and do not open up are likely light-deprived. In this case, their natural circadian rhythm has been altered since they are kept in areas that do not receive adequate light. Keep in mind that calatheas can still survive in low-light conditions, but we do not want our plants to barely survive – we want them to thrive and grow to their fullest potential.

If you think your houseplants are not receiving sufficient light to grow healthily, the solution is simply to move them to an area with bright, but not direct, sunlight. Keep in mind that calatheas also do not like strong sunlight, as the intense ultraviolet rays will likely burn their leaves. 

A good daily dose of filtered light will usually allow these lovely perennials to grow optimally. If you do not have well-lit areas in your house, you can also opt for grow lights as an alternative.

3. Repotting stress

Calatheas can struggle with transplant stress, too! Like most other plants, they need ample time to acclimatize to their new pot. Thus, a newly-transplanted calathea that looks stressed with downward-pointing leaves is experiencing a temporary reaction and should not be cause for major concern.

What you need to do, though, is give the plant the best possible growing conditions to help it recover fast. Move it to a spot with moderate heat and lighting levels, and keep the soil moist but not overwatered, to prevent drowned roots. Once your plant is finally happy with its new home, it should bounce back to its normal, healthy state.

4. Overwatering

We all know that calatheas are moisture-loving plants – but too much water can be bad for them, too! Overwatering is a leading cause of plant death, and a fussy calathea plant will certainly not tolerate waterlogged soil.

Unfortunately, some symptoms of overwatering can be easily confused with underwatering. Aside from brown and brittle leaves, you might also notice the plant starting to droop and become lifeless. If your plant is not responding well despite reviving it with enough water, then it is probably overwatered.

In this case, we suggest checking the roots. If you notice signs of rotting, the roots may have been infected by fungal spores and this will have compromised your plant’s nutrient uptake.

Depending on the severity of root damage, an overwatered calathea can be challenging to save. If more than half of the roots are rotting, there is a good chance the plant will die no matter how hard you try to revive it. In this case, it is best to discard the infected plant and start again with a new one.

5. Drafts and low temperatures

Calatheas are sensitive to sudden temperature changes. Similar to transplant stress, inappropriate conditions can cause their leaves to curl and become limp. 

Hence, your growing area should be free of drafts and away from heating or cooling vents. If your plants are placed near an open door or window, make sure to relocate them on cold or windy days. Ideally, their location should have a bright window and a stable temperature. 

Calatheas also love a humid environment – ideally between 50 to 60 percent humidity. For most households, this humidity level might be difficult to achieve, in which case a humidifier will become your best friend to ensure your indoor climate is comfortable for both you and your plants.

When all the above growing conditions have been met, your calathea will thrive happily and without any issues.

Conclusion

Leaves that mimic human hands in prayer – this is one of the many unique features that make calathea plants so popular and special. When evening arrives, their leaves begin to close and point upwards, as if the plants are in sleep mode. As the sun starts to rise again in the morning, the leaves will slowly open up and relax, as if they are greeting the day with open arms.

But, when the leaves stay pointed down or show other unusual signs like drooping, it is time to investigate. Reassess your watering routine as well as the light levels in your growing area. Hopefully, you can determine the problem and save your plant from irreversible damage!

Image: istockphoto.com / Oleg Shuldiakov

Zinnias are among the most beautiful flowering annuals that are super-easy to grow. There are several cultivars of this plant that come in different sizes – some taller varieties can grow up to four feet, while dwarf or compact ones reach just a few inches in height. Zinnia varieties are also available in different colors, shapes, and flowering styles to spoil you with a wide range of options.

Zinnias are prolific bloomers and can turn any dull-looking landscape or garden into a riot of color. Aside from their bold and colorful flowers, gardeners also love growing zinnias for their ability to attract birds and pollinators into the garden.

Unfortunately, zinnias are also a favorite among destructive pests, and waking up to see entire leaves destroyed on your zinnias before they have even flowered can be heartbreaking. It might also leave you wondering what it is that is eating your zinnia leaves. 

Keep reading below, as we might just have the answers and solutions you are looking for!

What is eating my zinnia leaves? – Common culprits

We all dread seeing our hard-earned flowers being feasted upon by pests! Unfortunately, however, these pests are a part of the ecosystem and are therefore everywhere. But you do not need to repeat the trauma after your first batch of zinnias has been devastated. Instead, do some investigation to identify the real culprit, so you can come up with clever ways to get rid of them for good.

Check out the most common zinnia pests below and see if any of them match the signs and symptoms of your plants:

1. Aphids

Aphids are a common enemy in the garden. Whatever you plant in your backyard, these pests are unlikely to overlook any attractive or healthy-looking leaves. Several species of aphids can infest a garden, and black bean aphids are the most common pests that attack zinnias.

If you have sharp eyesight, you might notice these tiny creepy crawlies feeding and hiding in the foliage of your precious zinnias. They are oval-shaped, like a grain of rice, and come in different shades such as dark green or sharp black. 

Aphids attack your plants by puncturing their leaf surface to feed on the sap inside. Aside from creating holes in the foliage, they also leave their byproduct – known as honeydew – on the leaves, and this in turn can attract other insects like ants. Sooty mold fungus can also grow on these sugary deposits and can turn the plant’s stems and leaves black.

If you think your zinnias have been infested by aphids, here are some good tips to get rid of them:

• For smaller infestations, blast the leaves with a water hose to dislodge the tiny insects.
• Spray the affected leaves with neem oil, horticultural oil, or a mixture of water and dishwashing soap.
• Apply diatomaceous earth to kill the pests. However, do not apply it if your plants are in their blooming cycle, as this product can kill beneficial insects like bees and butterflies.

2. Caterpillars

Caterpillars have a voracious appetite for almost any kind of herbs, vegetables, and flowers in the garden. Unfortunately, your pretty zinnias are also on their list of favorites. These wiggly garden visitors are nocturnal pests, so it might be challenging to catch them in action. If your zinnias’ leaves have large holes with circular chew-marks, then you are likely dealing with a caterpillar infestation.

Three types of caterpillar can attack zinnia plants, and these are: 

• Leafrollers: These worms have yellowish-brown bodies and black heads, and turn into moths when they reach maturity. Leafrollers love to devour the leaves, flowers, and flower buds of your favorite plants.
• Armyworms and cutworms: These worms grow from tiny green worms into black, gray, or brown caterpillars. Without your intervention, they will consume your plants to bulk up as they prepare for their pupal life-stage.
• Cabbage looper larvae: Cabbage loopers are usually light green with white lines along the sides of their bodies. Like the other caterpillars, they, too, love to devour the flowers and leaves of your zinnias as they grow bigger.

So, now that you know you have a caterpillar infestation on your hands, how do you get their population under control? Here are the steps to eliminate them:

• Remove the weeds around your plants to avoid attracting caterpillars.
• Apply Bacillus thuringiensis to the affected plants.
• Invite natural predators like parasitic wasps, lacewing larvae, or tachinid flies to manage the population.
• Spray neem oil or a solution of water and soap to naturally eliminate the worms.

3. Earwigs

Earwigs are tiny, nocturnal insects with a pair of protruding pincers that they use to catch their prey. These pests are omnivores – their diet includes insects as well as decaying plant matter. Among the favorites of these garden scavengers are aphids, plant lice, insect larvae, and small snails. Hence, as you might have guessed, they are not totally bad – earwigs are also vital to keep other destructive insects under control. 

The problem arises when the earwig population grows out of control and their natural food sources become limited. Various herbaceous plants, vegetables, and flowers can be a tasty option for these tiny pests, and yes – that includes your zinnias. One tell-tale sign of an earwig infestation is the appearance of tiny holes at the center and sides of your zinnias’ leaves.

Here are some quick solutions you can follow to keep an earwig infestation under control:

• Mix one part 70 percent rubbing alcohol with one-and-a-half parts water in a spray bottle. Use this solution to spritz the earwigs on the leaf surface.
• You can also use other natural repellents with strong scents, such as lemon, rosemary oil, eucalyptus oil, basil, peppermint oil, and white vinegar.
• Apply petroleum jelly to the stems of your zinnia plants.
• Mix equal parts olive oil and soy sauce to create oil pit traps. Pour the mixture into a container with small holes in the lid, and bury the container in the soil near the base of your zinnia plants. Check your oil trap every morning for earwigs, and replace the mixture as needed.

4. Slugs and snails

Other nocturnal pests that can wreak havoc in your garden are slugs and snails. These crawlers are famous for the slimy trails they leave in the garden, and for the raggedy holes they chew in your plants’ foliage. If these symptoms are apparent in your flowering plants, then slugs and snails may be the garden enemies you are dealing with.

If you are troubled by a slugs or snail infestation, try the solutions below to keep them off your garden plants:

• Use a beer trap. Simply fill a container with beer and place it near your zinnia plants. 
• Place sandpaper at the base of your zinnia plants to repel the pests.
• Introduce natural predators such as geese, frogs, nematodes, or birds.
• Surround your zinnias with snail-repellent plants such as nasturtium, rosemary, lantana, sage, lavender, geranium, poppy, fuchsia, or hostas.
• If you prefer a more aggressive solution to eradicate the slugs and snails, you can use iron phosphate, pesticides, bleach, and other snail-control solutions. However, keep in mind that these solutions might harm your plants as well as the other animals in your garden, so use them with caution.

5. Japanese beetles

If your zinnias are left with skeletonized leaves, then Japanese beetles might be your culprit. These pests are usually about an inch in size, so unlike other tiny pests, they are more visible to the naked eye. Their heads and bodies are covered with metallic blue-green and copper, and the sides of their bodies are lined with small tufts of white hair.

Japanese beetles usually attack during the summer season, consuming the delicate petals and leaves of your zinnias. They usually bore holes into the flowers and feed on the plant tissue between the veins of the leaves. 

If you have a Japanese beetle infestation on your hands, here are some effective ways to eradicate them:

• Spray neem oil on the infested leaves.
• Spray a mixture of water and dishwashing soap on the leaves to suffocate the pests.
• Use Japanese beetle traps to lure the bugs and keep them away from your plants.
• Add parasitic nematodes to your garden to manage Japanese beetles and other pest populations.
• Plant geraniums around your zinnias to repel the bugs.

Other causes of foliage damage in zinnias

Sometimes, a damaged zinnia leaf might look like it has been chewed on by an insect, but there are certain leaf diseases that can cause similar symptoms, so make sure to investigate thoroughly before taking action. 

For example, bacterial and fungal leaf spots can cause tiny, circular holes in your zinnias’ leaves. Eventually, this can lead to unwanted black spots and rotting of the plant tissue.

Occasionally, curious animals like deer and rabbits might also damage the leaves of your plants. Rabbits generally do not eat zinnia leaves, but it is always possible that they might have a nibble on any random leaves they find – even your zinnias. 

So, carefully observe the appearance of the damage, and monitor your garden if you can. You can also use devices such as wireless cameras to catch the real culprit at night time. Once you get to the bottom of this, you will be able to employ the best strategies to keep the pests from setting foot in your flower beds again!

Conclusion

Zinnia plants can have several garden enemies, so never let your guard down! Pests like caterpillars, slugs and snails, Japanese beetles, aphids, and earwigs can all destroy the fruits of your labor. Hopefully, you will identify the culprits of your ruined garden, and use the tips in this guide to get rid of the infestation for good!

Image: istockphoto.com / Elisa Irmalia

A garden filled with beautiful greens and colorful flowers is something we all dream of. The lovely tunes of hummingbirds, visually enchanting butterflies, and the fresh air that greets you every morning – these simple joys are just some of the garden perks to look forward to!

But, when the garden suddenly smells foul, then clearly something is off. Nobody wants to spend time in a stench-filled garden! 

The most common cause of this stink is the anaerobic decomposition of mulch. However, it does not have to smell this way. If you have been struggling with this offensive garden odor, we might have the solution for you. Read on to learn how to get rid of a bad mulch smell, as well as some of the best options for organic mulch.

What natural mulch smells like

Mulch normally smells like grass, freshly-cut wood, soil, bark, or leaves, depending on what organic material it is made of. If all is well, the earthy smell of mulch is mild and does not overpower the other scents coming from your flowering plants.

Issues arise, however, if the mulch starts to develop a rotting smell that emanates throughout the garden. Many times this has something to do with poor aeration, a damp environment, or excessive heat. Mulch stored in piles or compacted bags encourages anaerobic decomposition, which causes unwanted odors. Over time, bacterial byproducts can start to accumulate in the material, causing it to become toxic to the soil, plants, and beneficial organisms. 

Why does my mulch smell so bad?

Mulch is not supposed to smell bad. A normal, healthy mulch usually takes the smell of whatever material it is made from. For example, mulch made of wood should smell like freshly-cut wood, while one made of grass clippings should smell like grass.

If your garden starts giving off sour or manure-like odors after applying mulch, this is a red flag! Mulch that emits unpleasant odors is usually not healthy for your plants. In some cases, a bad-smelling mulch can cause soil toxicity and even irreversible damage to your crops and ornamental plants.  

If you are bothered by such undesirable odors in your garden, they might be caused by one or a combination of the following:

1. Contamination

If your mulch smells like manure, there is a good chance that the bark or grass you have used has been contaminated by other organic matter or waste. For example, during the collection process, the mulch might have been contaminated with animal urine, feces, or other waste matter.

2. Excess heat and moisture

Warm weather can alter the natural odor of your mulch. On top of the excess heat, a damp or humid environment can further promote bacterial growth. Since mulch is comprised of biomaterials, the presence of bacteria can hasten the fermentation process, releasing an unpleasant or offensive odor. 

3. Anaerobic conditions

Storing mulch in airtight containers promotes anaerobic conditions that cause the release of a sulfuric odor. This is why commercially produced organic mulches often smell like rotten eggs or ammonia, since they are likely stored in heaps. 

The anaerobic degradation due to the absence of airflow can also make the mulch more acidic, dropping the pH by up to 2.0. When combined with bacterial byproducts, namely methane and acetic acid, the mulch can become toxic to your plants. Hence, if your mulch starts smelling sour, it is probably best to restore it to its usable form before applying it to your garden.

4. Mulch decomposition

Mulch made of organic materials will naturally decompose, thanks to the bacterial and fungal pathogens present in the soil. Actinomyces is the most common anaerobic bacterium responsible for the degradation, causing the release of unpleasant odor.

Decomposition is an essential process to make the macronutrients available for your plants. You might be temporarily bothered by its stench, but do not worry – the strong odor should go away naturally after a few days. Expose your mulch to sunlight and air to promote aeration and prevent the buildup of toxins. 

5. Dyed mulch or black rubber mulch 

If your mulch makes your entire garden smell like chemicals, then you are probably using colored mulch or black rubber mulch.

The dye used in colored mulch, particularly red oxide, releases a rust-like odor when exposed to moisture or hot temperatures. On the other hand, black rubber mulch is made of inorganic materials from recycled tires. Similar to dyed mulch, black rubber mulch can also fill your garden with a stench as the material heats up under intense UV conditions.

For these reasons, both dyed and rubber mulches can emit offensive odors when the weather is particularly hot or rainy. Aside from the unpleasant odors they emit, these inorganic mulches can also leach the dye into the soil and possibly harm the beneficial microbes, earthworms, insects, and your garden plants. This is why organic mulches are usually the most preferred material to enrich or insulate garden soil.

How to get rid of a bad mulch smell

Thankfully, you do not need to discard your foul-smelling organic mulch, as it is fairly easy to treat. Here are some effective ways to help you fix your mulch and get rid of that stinky smell:

1. Aerate the mulch

As mentioned previously, a lack of proper air circulation often causes the mulch to sour or produce a manure smell. Hence, to get rid of the stench, all you need to do is aerate the pile. You can do this by spreading your mulch thinly – approximately about three inches deep – across a tarpaulin on your driveway or in your garden bed. Let your mulch dry and receive plenty of oxygen for several days until it loses its sulfuric odor.  

2. Mix your mulch with soil

Another quick fix is to give your mulch a good fluff and a mix to improve the aeration. Make sure to mix it well with the underlying soil instead of just layering it on the topsoil. This will also encourage the anaerobic bacteria to continue decomposing the organic matter without causing a toxic buildup in your mulch.

3. Avoid piling the mulch for too long

Letting a pile of mulch sit in one location for long periods can promote anaerobic conditions and rot. If you want to save your mulch for later use, make sure to mix or shovel it well and provide it with enough air. Instead of storing it in large piles, it is best to spread it thinly in a sunny place, or any well-ventilated location. The organic ingredients in your mulch will continue to decompose, but this time with enough oxygen. This should keep your mulch smelling better and prevent the accumulation of harmful byproducts that cause the awful smell.

4. Do not store mulch in airtight bags

Airtight bags promote anaerobic decomposition due to the lack of air circulation. It might sound convenient to store your mulch in an airtight bag for future use, but this can actually affect its quality. 

As mentioned previously, unused mulch is best spread on a roof tarpaulin to keep it well-aerated. But, if you need to store it in a container, it is highly recommended to use an open container or a burlap sack.

Make it a habit to check your stored mulch regularly. Fluff it up at least once a month or so, to encourage the formation of air pockets. You can also poke a few holes in the bagged mulch to keep it dry and airy. With proper ventilation, your mulch should stay fresh and smell better for a couple of months.

How long does it take for mulch to stop smelling?

Mulch gives off an offensive odor due to decomposition. If you have followed all the tips mentioned above, the unwanted smell should be gone within a week. However, other factors such as sunlight, weather conditions, and humidity might also speed or slow down the elimination of the odor. Just keep your mulch in a dry environment and everything should go well.

Lastly, avoid making any changes to your mulch within seven days – trust the process! If you think your mulch still retains the offensive odor after following the steps mentioned in this guide, then the source of the odor might be something else. Check for the presence of other waste materials and compost nearby, and make some adjustments if necessary. You can also add cedar chips to quickly solve the bad odor problems.

Best natural mulches that do not stink

Almost all kinds of organic mulch release a fresh, earthy scent. They do not typically smell bad unless they are improperly stored. The key is to allow the mulch to decompose with the anaerobic bacteria and oxygen to prevent the sour or manure-like odors from taking over.

Additionally, organic mulches are safer and healthier for your vegetable crops and ornamental plants. With the help of soil-borne microbes, they can decompose easily to help enrich your garden soil.

Depending on your preference and the type of garden you have, you can opt for any of these natural mulches:

• Cedar bark chips
• Pine bark/straw
• Natural compost
• Cypress mulch
• Grass clippings
• Pine bark mini nuggets

Conclusion

Anaerobic decomposition is the main cause of stinky mulch. Storing your organic mulch in a moist environment without adequate airflow often traps bacterial byproducts such as methane and acetic acid, leaving behind a sulfuric or manure-like smell. 

But you do not have to throw away your stinky mulch! You can fix the bad smell pretty quickly if you follow the tips mentioned in this guide. Simply give your mulch lots of aeration and the smell should be gone within four to seven days.

Image: istockphoto.com / Larisa Stefanuyk

Ornithogalum dubium, otherwise known as the orange star plant, is a flowering bulb that originated in South Africa. These perennials tend to be compact, with tall stems that burst with gorgeous clusters of flowers during the spring. Some growers also call these plants sun star or Star of Bethlehem, due to their bright orange blooms.

Although orange stars are extremely rewarding to grow in the garden, they can also be susceptible to several plant problems. If you see your plant drooping, this usually means it is struggling with an underlying issue. Later, this might be followed by other symptoms like stunted growth, leaf discoloration, and dropping of the leaves.

So, why is your orange star plant drooping? There are several possible reasons, and we will discuss each of them in this article.

Why is my orange star plant drooping?

Orange star plants with drooping leaves are an unpleasant sight, and this is often a tell-tale sign of trouble, especially if your plants are not receiving the right care and growing conditions. Check through the common causes below to troubleshoot your drooping orange star plant and fix the underlying issues right away.

1. Rootbound issues

When was the last time you repotted your orange star plant? If you can see its roots starting to appear on the soil’s surface, it is probably rootbound.

Plants become rootbound when their roots become too dense because they have outgrown their containers. This is not a healthy condition for a plant to be in, since it limits the plant’s ability to absorb water and essential nutrients. Soil displacement is another ugly consequence of a rootbound state, as more and more roots take over the limited space inside the container. 

If your orange star plants are left to grow in this fashion, their growth will stop and they will slowly start dying. The extensive root damage will become apparent as the foliage turns yellow and then brown, the leaves curl or drop, and the stems lose their turgidity. 

2. Too little water

It is all too easy to forget to water your houseplants, especially if you live in a busy household. If you cannot remember the last time you lavished some love and attention on your orange stars, it is probably time to reassess your plant care routine!

Water-deprived orange stars will not only droop, but might also look a little dry and brown. Excessive dehydration depletes the moisture that keeps the plant firm and turgid. Furthermore, without enough moisture, it is impossible for it to carry on the metabolic processes that keep it alive and thriving.

So, go ahead and check the soil – does it look dry? If it does, then you probably just need to pamper your orange star with enough water to perk it back up. 

3. Overwatering

We all have probably heard the common saying, “Too much of a good thing can be bad!” While water is good and essential for plant growth, we can sometimes become a bit over-excited about a new plant, and lavish it with more water than it actually needs.

Too much water can actually be more dangerous than underwatering, as it makes your plant vulnerable to fungal diseases and rot. Sadly, reviving an overwatered orange star is almost impossible if the fungal damage has already become extensive. 

Drooping is just one of the early signs of overwatering. This is your plant’s cry for help as its roots are drowning in the waterlogged soil. If you fail to react quickly, the roots will slowly start to die, thereby limiting your plant’s nutrient uptake. Soon, its leaves and stems will become brown and mushy as the rot spreads. To make matters worse, rotting plant matter will eventually attract pests and fungal spores, leading to the quick demise of your orange star. 

4. Pest infestation

Pest infestation is often difficult to diagnose in its early stages, as most of these destructive bugs are too tiny to be seen by the naked eye. 

There are several pests that might attack your orange star plant. Some of the most common sap-sucking bugs include aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, and scales. They might vary in size and color, but they all do the same thing to your houseplants – irreversible foliage damage and death.

If your orange star suddenly starts drooping despite your proper care and watering, then check the undersides of the leaves for signs of infestation. Use a magnifying glass if necessary. If you notice unusual moving objects that look like miniscule grains of rice, this is a sure sign of pest infestation. Check for honeydew-like substances as well – pests often leave their excrements on the leaf surface, and this attracts black sooty mold and ants.

5. Poor soil quality

Poor soil quality often leads to poor plant establishment and growth. Soil that is too loose and sandy does not hold moisture well enough, leading to plant dehydration. If the soil is too dense or compacted, on the other hand, it results in poor soil drainage and root rot diseases.

Orange star plants do best in consistently moist but well-draining soil. You can achieve this by making a potting mix that contains perlite or peat moss, or by purchasing a Miracle-Gro potting mix on Amazon.    

6. Transplant shock

Newly transplanted orange stars can react negatively by drooping, but this does not mean they are dying. Yes, it might look terrifying, especially after you have done your best to nurture the plant, but know that this is a normal process. 

Root damage and poor acclimatization are often cofactors that cause orange stars to droop after transplanting. At this point, the only thing you can do is shower your stressed plant with love and careful attention. Do not forget to keep its soil moist at all times. As long as the damage is minimal, your favorite perennial flower should recover and perk back up within a few weeks. 

How often should you water an orange star plant?

One common question asked by a lot of new growers is how often to water their orange star plants. We have mentioned the important role of water in growing a healthy perennial plant like the orange star, as well as the devastating effects of improper watering.

To avoid both under- and overwatering your plants, the golden rule is this: water your plants only when the top two inches of soil look dry. Keep in mind that bone-dry soil tends to be lighter in color than moist soil. 

You can also assess the moisture level by pushing your finger into the soil – if it crumbles, then your orange star is probably in dire need of water. If the soil oozes with a bit of water as you squeeze it, it is probably too wet. The ideal soil should be a bit moist and stick together when you ball it in your hand.

For beginners, we highly recommend using a soil moisture meter for convenient and accurate readings. This device comes in handy when you want to know your plant’s watering needs – just insert it into the soil and check the moisture level on the display. 

Under normal weather conditions, an orange star plant needs to be watered about once or twice a week. Keep in mind that your watering schedule should also be adjusted depending on the season. For example, you might need to increase the watering during hot and dry seasons, but limit it during the cold months.  

How to revive a drooping orange star plant

Sometimes, reviving a drooping orange star can be a bit challenging, especially if the plant has been struggling with the underlying issue for a long time. Check for other signs of damage as well, and from there you should be able to tell what has caused your plant to droop.

However, if you have managed to diagnose the issue at its earliest stage, then perking your plant back up should be quite easy. Here, we have summarized the things you need to do in order to rescue your drooping orange star plant:

• Often, the cause of a drooping orange star is dehydration. In this case, the solution is simply to give your plant more water. If the soil is too dry to absorb water, you might need to give your plant a good soak in the sink for at least 30 minutes or until the soil becomes saturated. Afterwards, take the container out of the sink and let the excess water drain completely.
• If the soil is compacted, then your best option might be to repot your plant. This time, make sure to use well-draining soil to allow the roots to breathe. Poke some holes into the soil’s surface to improve the aeration and allow the water to penetrate deeply into the root system.
• If your orange stars are grown indoors, try to improve the humidity level by adding a humidifier. Some gardeners swear by the effectiveness of misting or adding a water pebble tray, which might be worth a try. However, the humidifier is by far the most effective solution to manage the humidity in your indoor garden.

Conclusion

A drooping orange star plant is often caused by improper watering, a rootbound state, pest infestation, transplant stress, or poor soil quality. Before searching for solutions to perk your plant back up, you need to determine the cause so that the correct fix can be applied. Hopefully, through this guide, you have found the answer to bring your beautiful perennial back to life!

Image: istockphoto.com / Nature, food, landscape, travel

Picture it: You wake up one morning to tend to your garden, only to find your beautiful morning glories ravaged by wild animals. What could be a more painful sight, after all the weeks and months spent caring for your precious plants?

Rabbits are among the many destructive animals that can invade your garden. They can devour your hard-earned flowers and other vegetable crops without mercy, especially during their breeding season. If you notice tufts of fur, signs of digging, and chew marks on your plants’ leaves and flowers, then these fluffy foes are quite likely the culprits.

So, do rabbits eat morning glories? Yes – in fact, they find morning glories a particularly tasty snack. 

Let us discuss more about these nuisances and what you can do to stop them!

Why rabbits are garden pests

For many people, rabbits are deceptively adorable and fluffy little creatures. Chances are, at some point, you have probably tried to befriend one of them. If you are a gardener, however, these cotton-tailed cuties are a downright nuisance. 

Rabbits are known to have a voracious appetite for almost any plant within their reach. They will chomp on vegetable crops and ornamental plants, causing extensive damage to both agricultural land and landscapes. For most gardeners, seeing a bunny hopping through the garden, enjoying an eat-all-you-can buffet of high-value plants, can be the most traumatic experience imaginable.

And here is another bit of bad news – rabbits are enthusiastic breeders, too! In the wild, these furry pests can grow rapidly in number. In fact, a single female rabbit can produce up to five litters each year. If you have feral rabbits nesting around your neighborhood, chances are they will run riot over your garden plants sooner or later.

So, how do you know if the damage in your garden is caused by rabbits? If you see a fluffy tail bouncing around your property, it is a sure sign that your plants have been assaulted by these unwelcome visitors. 

These tell-tale signs should also help you confirm a rabbit infestation:

• Chew marks that leave a clean-cut clipping on the leaves and stems.
• A clump of fur caught under your garden fence or gate.
• Small holes dug near your garden or flower beds.
• Rabbit droppings around your plants. 

Do rabbits eat morning glories?

Yes, rabbits love eating morning glories!

If you are an avid gardener, you are probably among those fascinated by the gorgeous blooms of morning glories. These annual vines are adorned with fragrant, trumpet-shaped flowers that can be magenta, pink, white, or purple-blue. If you are lucky enough to have morning glories in your garden, you will likely have butterflies and hummingbirds as regular visitors, too.

Unfortunately, however, not all of your garden guests are beneficial to your plants. Some pests and animals visit your backyard to enjoy a free buffet of flowers and fresh vegetation – and rabbits are one of them!

Our long-eared foes love a wide variety of herbaceous plants. Although they favor seedlings or tender young plants, these critters will not hesitate to wolf down any greens they can find, especially if their food sources are limited. So, aside from your morning glories, these pests will quite possibly cause extensive damage to your entire garden, too.

Thus, in a nutshell, rabbits are considered bothersome and a big threat not just to our morning glories, but to all our garden plants. Keep in mind that their damage can occur at any time of year, but they are most rampant during their breeding season. 

How do I stop rabbits from eating my morning glories?

If your gardening efforts have been hampered by rabbit infestation, then you need to take action right away to keep these hungry animals off your morning glories. Follow the tips below to prevent rabbits from setting foot in your garden ever again:

1. Install garden fences

Physical barriers are by far the most effective method of keeping hungry rabbits out of your backyard. We highly recommend using chicken wire fencing with a mesh size of about one inch or smaller. Make sure your barrier is about two feet tall and supported with sturdy materials such as metal posts or wooden stakes. 

Keep in mind that rabbits are also excellent diggers, so your fence should be buried at least six inches below the ground to keep them from crawling underneath the barrier. You can also use U-shaped landscape pins to secure your fence to the ground.

2. Use motion-activated sprinklers

Motion-activated sprinklers are devices you can use to effectively surprise feral animals like rabbits and send them running. They work by spraying the animals with water automatically whenever motion is detected within their coverage area. 

Installing a motion-activated sprinkler is one of the most humane ways to keep rabbits away without using harmful chemicals. If you find this option convenient, then check out sprinklers like Orbit 62100 or products from other reputable brands for reliability and durability.

3. Use natural repellents

The pungent smells of garlic and cayenne pepper are two of the many odors that rabbits strongly dislike. You can try making a homemade spray by mixing one teaspoon of castile liquid soap, two tablespoons of garlic, two tablespoons of cayenne pepper, and about five cups of water. Pour the mixture into a spray bottle and apply to the leaves of your morning glories.

However, if you have pets roaming around your garden, then caution must be taken before applying this natural deterrent. Cayenne pepper, when ingested in large quantities, can cause irritation and stomach upset in your pets.

4. Trap live rabbits

Trapping rabbits is another safe option to remove these furry visitors from your backyard. You can purchase a rabbit trap from your local garden shop or hardware store, or make your own if you have the time and resources. 

To set up the trap, place it near your morning glories or other plants that rabbits like to munch on. Use bait that rabbits find tasty, such as carrots, lettuce, or apple slices. Once the trap is successful, make sure to release the trapped rabbits far away from your area, so they do not cause you trouble again. 

5. Welcome natural predators

Areas populated with rabbits can naturally attract wild predators like foxes and hawks. Should you happen to encounter one of these natural rabbit enemies, never shoo them away. These animals do not usually pose a threat to your pets or to other people, and welcoming their presence will likely solve your rabbit infestation.

If you have dogs with strong hunting instincts, then letting them roam around your fenced garden will also help deter the feral rabbits. 

Other animals that eat morning glories

Aside from rabbits, your garden can also be threatened by other wild animals like chipmunks, groundhogs, deer, and rats. Wildlife in general can cause a lot of upset if they stray into your garden and damage your valuable plants! 

The breeding season is the most problematic, as more hungry animals will be naturally drawn to your precious flowers and greens. Some of them can be very persistent and will not stay away even with deterrents installed. The best thing you can do, then, is to animal-proof your property and make it less attractive to these creatures. 

For persistent wildlife infestations, consider getting professional help or contacting animal control in your area to handle the problem.

Conclusion

If your morning glories are repeatedly assaulted by wildlife, especially rabbits, take some deep breaths! A rabbit infestation can be tricky to control, but if you follow the tips mentioned in this article, you will likely succeed in keeping them off your flower beds for good. 

Image: istockphoto.com / helga_sm

Why is My Creeping Jenny Dying?

Seeing your creeping Jenny dying can be quite alarming – especially if you cannot pinpoint the exact cause!

There could be several reasons behind your beloved plant’s poor health. Often, the issue stems from the gardener’s lack of plant care knowledge, which can lead to problems like improper watering. Other factors, such as too much sunlight, pests, and fungal diseases, might also cause this perennial evergreen to lose its vigor and die.

In this article, we will uncover some of the common reasons your creeping Jenny might be dying. So, without further ado, let us jump in! 

Creeping Jenny – plant care overview

Creeping Jenny, otherwise known as moneywort, is an evergreen perennial that is often used for ground cover thanks to its low-growing, dense, coin-shaped foliage. It can make a great addition to your garden, softening a few edges with its lush, lime-green leaves and complementing your ornamentals. Growing it in containers or hanging baskets is also a trendy option, as its trails can create a lovely draping effect. 

You should know, however, that this fast-growing creeper also tends to be invasive! Its leaves and stems can spread tenaciously and overrun the other plants in your garden. If you do not keep its growth in check, it can be really problematic and might even reach your neighbor’s garden!

If you would like to grow a creeping Jenny to enhance your lawn or complement the theme of your landscape, it is essential that you know its basic care requirements.

For starters, you need to keep the soil moist at all times, whether it is planted in a container or in the ground. Watering the plant once a week will usually suffice, but you may need to adjust this according to the weather and the season. If you live in an area with a hot climate, you should probably increase the frequency to keep your creeper hydrated. Be careful, though, not to overwater it, or you risk causing root rot and fungal issues.

Another important factor to keep in mind is the amount of sunlight your creeping Jenny receives. This plant prefers six hours of full sunlight per day, or even more of partial sun, and this sun exposure can influence the color of its leaves, too. Full, direct sunlight can make them golden yellow, while partial shade can turn them chartreuse green. However, the intense heat of the afternoon sun might lead to blanched leaves.

Other care tips you need to know:

• Maintain proper spacing, about two feet away from other plants, so you can easily keep your creeping Jenny from invading them.
• Prune the plant to manage its horizontal growth, especially if it is planted in the ground.
• Apply minimal fertilizer, since a creeping Jenny can grow abundantly without the need for very much fertilizer.

Why is my creeping Jenny dying? – Causes and fixes

Although this crawling plant is very easy to grow and care for, you should keep in mind that it can also face several issues. Here are some of the common reasons your creeping Jenny may be dying, and their corresponding solutions:

1. Too much exposure to sunlight

Creeping Jenny plants thrive in full sunlight. But, as with other plants, too much sunlight can still be bad for them! Sunburn is particularly common in these evergreens if they receive more than six hours of direct sunlight per day – especially during the dry season. The scorching heat can turn their foliage pale, brown, and brittle, especially if their soil is not moist enough.

If you live in an area with a hot climate, you may need to relocate your creeping Jenny to a spot that gets partial shade.

2. Lack of water

Often, a creeping Jenny that looks sad and dying might just need more water to perk back up again! This plant thrives best in moist soil, and excessive drought will cause its foliage to lose turgidity. Similar to sunburn, you might also notice the leaves turning brown and brittle as the roots are deprived of water.

In its natural habitat, this super hardy plant flourishes near streams or river banks. Hence, its soil must be kept moist (but not soggy) at all times! So, make sure to water your creeping Jenny regularly, and do not let the soil become too dry in between waterings. 

If you are growing your creeping Jenny in the ground, it is best to position it near a water source or where rainwater naturally collects. If the plant is grown in a container, it will need more frequent watering because potted soil can dry out quickly. Check the topsoil regularly with your finger or use a moisture meter to determine when your plant needs a drink. 

3. Overwatering

Overwatering can kill any plant – even a moisture-loving evergreen like the creeping Jenny. If the foliage begins to wilt, it might be time to assess your watering routine.

As mentioned, a creeping Jenny requires consistently moist soil to thrive. However, saturated soil can drown its roots and cause other problems like fungal diseases.  

Knowing when to water your creeping Jenny might be a bit tricky, especially for a newbie gardener. The soil condition is greatly influenced by weather, sunlight, spacing between plants, and the type of plant container used. Hence, a strict watering schedule cannot be followed; instead, you need to check the soil regularly to know when it needs watering. As previously suggested, the finger test can help you assess whether the soil is damp or too dry. For convenience and more accurate monitoring, you can also purchase a soil moisture meter like the XLUX, from Amazon.

4. Red spider mite infestation

Pest infestation is another possible culprit if your creeping Jenny starts losing its vigor and dying back. Its common enemies, red spider mites, damage its foliage by piercing the surface of the leaves and sucking out the plant’s nutrients. If your creeping Jenny appears wilted and develops brown or yellow leaves, then do check the underside of the leaves to see if it is infested with red spider mites.

Early infestation might be challenging to diagnose since the insects are difficult to see with the naked eye. Most gardeners will probably only notice the infestation once the tiny nuisances have already set up home on the plant and the leaf damage has become obvious. 

Prevention is always better than cure, but if your creeping Jenny is already struggling with this issue, do not panic! Insecticidal soap and neem oil will usually do the trick to eradicate pests. You can also spray the leaves with rubbing alcohol diluted in water to kill the little bugs. Chemical pesticides should be your last resort, for cases of severe infestation.   

5. Fungal diseases

Creeping Jenny plants can also be vulnerable to several fungal diseases. Among the most common ones that could kill your plant include southern blight, botrytis blight, and phyllosticta leaf spot. These fungal diseases can attack your creeping Jenny when it has been weakened by overwatering, inadequate sunlight, or an overall lack of proper care.

Fungal spores thrive in wet environments, and under the right conditions they can invade the roots, stems, and leaves of your plants, causing the sensitive plant tissue to rot and die. Early signs of a fungal disease include discoloration of the leaves – your creeping Jenny might start turning brown or yellow and begin developing unusual spots on the leaves’ surface.

Southern blight disease is mainly caused by Sclerotium rolfsii, a soil-borne fungus that thrives in moist areas with warm climates. It attacks the plant’s stems, roots, and leaves, and can also cause unsightly brown or black spots on the leaves. 

Another fungal disease that can kill your creeping Jenny is botrytis blight. The fungal spores that cause this disease are known as Botrytis cinerea, and they mainly attack indoor plants during the cold months. The affected tender parts of your creeping Jenny might start developing cankers or tan-colored spots, as well as unsightly mold patches.

Phyllosticta leaf spot disease is characterized by circular spots on the leaves, with reddish or brownish borders. The leaf spots in this case are caused by Phyllosticta minima, a type of fungus that is prevalent during the wet spring weather. Like the other fungal diseases, Phyllosticta also attacks the leaves and creates small blemishes or lesions that can grow into larger necrotic blotches.

Fungal diseases can be challenging to treat, especially if they have already started taking over your creeping Jenny and other plants. Although fungicides might help to slow the spread of the disease, it is often advised to discard the infected plants to stop the fungal spores from spreading throughout your garden. Never add these plants to your compost pile, and always disinfect your gardening tools!

How do you revive a creeping Jenny?

Depending on the severity of the damage, reviving your creeping Jenny may require your full attention and most loving care. Early intervention generally gives you the best advantage in saving your plant, and there are many possible solutions available to get your creeping Jenny back to its healthy state. 

We have summarized below some of the general care tips that might help you revive your ailing evergreen:

• Water your creeping Jenny thoroughly and deeply, especially during the hot season. You can also add mulch to help keep the soil moist and cool.
• Make it a habit to check your plants regularly – this will help you catch potential issues earlier and take action right away.
• Protect your plants from pests by keeping them strong and healthy at all times. To this end, you can also apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer for complete nourishment.
• Apply preventative measures like discarding fungal-infected plants, disinfecting your gardening tools, and keeping the soil healthy and free from harmful pathogens.
• If your creeping Jenny is severely infested, consider using stronger pesticides that contain ingredients like bifenthrin, acephate, and carbaryl to effectively kill the pests.
• Plant your creeping Jenny near other, taller plants or a structure that provides shade, in order to protect the foliage from the intense heat of the sun.

Conclusion

If your creeping Jenny looks unhealthy or is dying, this might have to do with incorrect watering habits, sunburn, or fungal diseases. Although most of these issues can be remedied, you might find it harder to save a plant that is dying from fungal infection. Proper care and prevention are often your best weapon to avoid these problems, so make sure to care properly for your beautiful creeper! 

Image: istockphoto.com / MartaJonina

Transplanting is often the most stressful time for a plant – even for hardy perennials like echinaceas. However, this practice is necessary if you are aiming for a bigger and healthier-looking plant. Another big positive of transplanting is that it prevents the plant from becoming rootbound if you are growing your young echinacea plants in pots.

If your plant looks as if it is dying after replanting, do not lose heart. In most cases, an echinacea wilting after transplant is a normal sight. All plants go through this process. And, given the right care and enough recovery time, it is guaranteed that your echinacea will bounce back to its healthy state. 

Echinacea plant care basics

Echinacea is a familiar sight in prairie-style gardens and wild flower meadows. Also known as coneflowers, echinaceas are much loved for their colorful, daisy-like flowers with spiky central cones that bloom from July up until September. Hummingbirds, bees, and butterflies particularly enjoy the lovely petals and the fragrance of echinaceas.

There are several eye-catching varieties of this flower, which can be different shades of pink, magenta, purple, white, and yellow. This cottage garden favorite can grow from 12 to 40 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide, depending on the variety. Hence, with a wide array of echinacea varieties available, there is sure to be one that can perfectly suit your needs!

Interestingly, echinacea plants are not only beautiful on the outside – they are also super-hardy perennials. Gardeners enjoy growing these flowers because they are not finicky and are very low-maintenance. However, they do need to be watered regularly during their first year of growth. Once your coneflowers are fully established, approximately two to three years later, they become drought resistant and require less attention.

Another thing to keep in mind when it comes to caring for these gorgeous perennials is their sunlight requirements. Echinacea plants thrive best in zones three to nine, making them the ideal flowers to grow in sunny areas. To reach their full growth potential, they need about six hours of direct sunlight per day. They will also do well in partial shade, but you might not see as many flowers as on those grown in full sunlight. 

And the last, but definitely not least, requirement to successfully grow echinaceas is the soil. Although echinacea plants are tolerant of poor and rocky soil, they grow best in moderately fertile, well-draining soil. Keep in mind that their roots are quite sensitive to constantly-damp soil, making them vulnerable to root rot issues. Hence, careful watering and regularly checking the soil are very important. If you keep your echinacea growing healthily, its risk of catching diseases and pests is greatly reduced.  

Why you should transplant echinacea 

Coneflowers have tap roots that can grow up to five feet deep. To keep their root system from becoming too dense, it is crucial to divide and transplant them approximately every four years. 

Avid growers also transplant their echinaceas to enhance the aesthetics of another area of their property. By doing this, they can prevent rootbound issues in pot-grown echinaceas that might otherwise lead to sparse flowering. 

Why is my echinacea wilting after transplant

Of course, despite all the love and care you have given your plants, there might still be times when they suddenly appear sick or dying. Echinacea leaves can start to wilt and droop for no obvious reason, which can leave you confused and a bit frustrated.

There are several possible reasons your plant might initially disapprove of its new home. One of these could be the problem:

1. Wrong timing

One reason your coneflowers might look sad and dying after being transplanted might simply be bad timing. As we have mentioned, transplanting can be a stressful experience for any plants, and even more so if done during the hot summer season. 

To reduce the chances of wilting and dying leaves, the best time to transplant your echinacea is in the spring or fall, when the temperature is milder. At this time, the flowers have not yet begun to bloom, making it easier for the plant to recover.  

However, if you decide to transplant your echinacea during the fall, make sure that it has stopped blooming first. This will help the plant focus all its energy on securing its roots before the cold months arrive.

2. Damaged roots

Root damage is quite common during the transplant process, no matter how careful you are in moving your plants. While this is completely unavoidable, you can still try to reduce the damage as much as you can. Remember that roots are essential for nutrient and water absorption, so the more roots your plant loses, the more difficult it is to recover.

Once you have transferred your plant to its new location, make sure to provide it with the best care possible. Protect the foliage from sudden bright sunlight by temporarily shading the plant with an umbrella. Give it time to acclimatize to its new environment before finally letting it enjoy the full sunlight.

Another great tip is to water your echinacea lightly and frequently. Be careful not to overwater it, though, to avoid drowning the roots. Too little water can also put more stress on a newly-transplanted echinacea, so make sure to water it adequately – just enough to keep it well-hydrated while it recovers.

Pruning might also help, but make sure not to overdo it! You can also remove some flowers so that the plant can focus on establishing its roots. 

Lastly, a newly-transplanted echinacea might not benefit from fertilizer. It is best to refrain from feeding your plant until its roots are healthy enough to absorb the extra nutrients.

3. Your plant needs more time to recover

If you have done everything correctly and your echinacea still shows signs of distress, do not despair! Wilting is a normal reaction for newly-transplanted plants, and you do not have to do anything other than provide your echinacea with the best possible basic plant care. Let it recover and, in due time, it should bounce back to its healthiest condition.

How to transplant your echinacea 

Transplanting might seem like an intimidating process, especially for new growers. Surprisingly, a successful transplant can be easily achieved if you follow these steps:

• Find a sunny location to replant your echinacea, and make sure the new area allows for about one to three feet of spacing between your plants.
• The plant must be well-hydrated the day before transplanting, so check the soil’s moisture and give your echinacea a good drink if it looks too dry.
• Dig a hole in the soil at least one foot deep and six inches wide to allow plenty of space for the tap roots.
• Gently lift the echinacea from the ground (or from its container). Be careful not to damage its delicate roots.
• If you are growing the popular Echinacea purpurea variety, then you can divide the plant prior to replanting since it has fibrous roots. However, for other echinacea varieties, dividing the plant might not be possible due to the tap roots.
• Finally, plant your echinacea in its new location. You might need some extra topsoil and compost to equip your plant with extra nutrients.
• Once you are done transplanting, do not forget to water your echinacea well. Keep the soil moist, but never waterlogged. Adding mulch might also benefit your plant to prolong the moisture and enhance soil fertility.

Conclusion

Most plants wilt after transplanting, and this reaction is entirely normal. So, do not feel discouraged if you notice your echinacea wilting – this does not necessarily mean you have done anything wrong! Give your plant enough time to recover and, once it pulls through, you will be relieved to see its new and healthy growth!

Image: istockphoto.com / Grzegorz Januszewicz

Are your alocasia plants spindly or leaning over, as if their stems are about to break? 

Often, plants’ stems bend in response to inadequate light, improper watering, or physical damage. And, if the underlying issue is not corrected, the stems could become so weak that they finally break off.

This article will cover some of the most common causes of bending alocasia stems. Hopefully, you can use this information to troubleshoot your plant and return it to its healthiest condition!

Alocasia stem bending – common causes

1. Uneven exposure to light

In their natural habitat, plants grow straight upward because they usually get 360 degrees of sunlight exposure. In contrast, plants that are grown indoors are at risk of not getting even access to light. 

For example, alocasia plants that are grown in pots and placed near a window would only receive light from the side facing that window. The uneven light distribution may eventually cause their stems to grow and bend towards the light source, making them appear lopsided. This condition is known as phototropism.

Stem bending can happen to outdoor plants, too. If your alocasia is placed near a wall or a shelf, it will likely lean forward towards the closest light, causing its stems to bend.

If your plant looks a bit sad and lopsided, a simple trick is to rotate it every now and then. Every time you water your alocasia, give it a little quarter-turn to ensure that all sides of the plant are receiving equal amounts of light.

2. Lack of water

Alocasia plants need water to facilitate the transport of essential nutrients through their stems and leaves. Water also helps maintain turgor, or pressure, within the plant tissue, providing your plant structural support to keep it upright.

Hence, if your plants do not receive adequate water, their stems and leaves will lose their turgidity and begin to droop or bend. Water-deprived alocasias will also lose their vigor, making them vulnerable to several plant issues such as stunted growth, leaf drop, and complete collapse of the foliage.

If you think you have neglected your houseplants for too long and the soil looks bone dry, then you might need to give them a really thorough soak. Usually, placing the pot in a sink filled with water will do the trick! Just let your plant sit in the water for about 45 minutes or until the soil is saturated. 

Once you are confident that the soil has absorbed enough moisture, take the plant out of the sink and let the excess water drain freely. 

From now on, you will need to monitor the plant’s topsoil regularly to ensure that it does not become too dry. In normal weather conditions, it is recommended to water your plants about once a week. During the dry seasons, however, you might need to increase your watering as the elevated temperatures can quickly dry out the soil. 

3. Root rot due to overwatering

Root rot is a common plant disease characterized by soft, mushy-looking roots. This condition is usually caused by too much watering and/or poor soil drainage.

When the roots of your plants are exposed to wet soil for too long, it limits their oxygen intake and slowly drowns the plant. Waterlogged soil can also promote the growth of fungi, which can worsen the deterioration of the root system. Eventually, the plant will lose its health and become increasingly vulnerable to fungal infections and pests.

One of the early signs of an overwatered alocasia is drooping and browning leaves, as the plant struggles with water and nutrient absorption. The stems will also start to die back, causing them to appear soft or fragile and bend. 

If you have caught the overwatering issue at the earliest stage, chances are you might still be able to rescue your alocasia. Here are the steps to save your drowning plant:

• Stop watering your plant until the soil dries out completely.
• Move your drowned plant to a shady area, away from bright light. 
• Tilt the soil gently to create air pockets around the root zone.
• If the soil is overly saturated and compacted, try repotting your plant. Make sure to use well-aerated soil.
• Give your plant about seven to ten days to recover.

Unfortunately, an alocasia with severe root rot might be more challenging to revive. If most of the roots have turned black and mushy, it is best to discard the plant to prevent fungal diseases from spreading to your other, healthy plants. 

4. Rootbound issues

For inexperienced growers, identifying a rootbound plant might be challenging since the symptoms are often similar to those of an underwatered plant. If watering is not an issue and your alocasia develops wilted and brown leaves, you might need to think about when last you repotted it.

If a plant becomes rootbound, its soil will be displaced from the pot as the roots grow larger and become compacted. The condition will eventually lead to nutrient uptake issues, weakening your plant and causing it to droop or bend.

To prevent rootbound issues, alocasia plants must be repotted every 18 to 24 months, or when you start seeing roots growing out above the soil’s surface and or through the pot’s drainage holes. 

5. Physical damage

Any form of physical damage to your alocasia plant might cause its stems to bend, whether it is caused by curious toddlers or playful pets at home. Even strong winds can cause the stems to bend, sometimes. 

Fortunately, there are ways to protect your alocasia from physical damage. For starters, you may want to move your plant to an elevated area to keep it away from children’s reach. You can also use protective coverings or natural deterrents to prevent pets from romping around your garden plants. 

If you live in an area with strong winds, you can protect your houseplants by adding sturdy structural support to prevent the stems from bending. You might also need to relocate your alocasia to a safer area on particularly windy days. For outdoor planting, consider reinforcing your greenhouse and trellises to prevent strong winds from knocking your plants over.  

6. Dormancy

Sometimes, alocasia plants might look like they are dying as they enter their dormant state during the late autumn and winter seasons. Now, this might seem a bit frustrating, especially if your plants are intended to uplift the aesthetic of your home! However, this is a natural part of the plant’s growth cycle and the best thing you can do is allow it to take a break. Once the cold season is over, it should perk back up and return to its healthy, bushy state.

How do you keep alocasia upright?

Depending on the issue and how severely bent the stems are, you might still be able to correct the shape of your plants using a few simple fixes.

If the stems are only slightly bending, then using tape to support the plant should provide quick relief. You can use florist tape or plant scotch tape to repair the bent plant stems. 

Toothpicks, skewers, or drinking straws might also be used as a splint to straighten the stems and align the damaged parts. Strengthen the bent areas by wrapping one or more splints to your plant with tape or plastic ties.

Once you have everything set up, remember to correct your plant care routine if this is the cause of the bending stems. For example, if the problem is related to watering issues, consider using a soil moisture meter to keep your soil condition in check. The device will provide you with real-time information about whether your alocasias need more hydration or not, thereby reducing the risk of both overwatering and underwatering.

If the issue is caused by uneven light distribution, then simply turning or moving your plant a little bit should help correct its lopsided shape. Make sure that all sides of the alocasia receive equal bright light to prevent bent stems and leggy growth.

Unfortunately, for badly bent plants, it might be difficult to correct their bent stems. The best thing you can do is to clip off the damaged stem and patiently wait for new growth to appear.

Conclusion

Alocasia stems can bend for several possible reasons, although uneven light exposure is the most common culprit. In this case, you can use a sturdy mechanical support to ensure that your plants do not fall over and help keep them straight and uniform. Additionally, make sure to correctly diagnose your plant and fix the issue as soon as possible to prevent the stems from breaking completely!

Image: istockphoto.com / Anggi Dharma Prasetya

Many of us are enchanted by the unique beauty of dahlia flowers! However, these pretty blooms can also fall victim to several pests. 

Seeing your dahlia leaves devoured by unknown insects can be heartbreaking, and will probably leave you wondering what exactly it is that is eating them. If you are here to find out who is the culprit, then read on as we reveal the most common dahlia pests and quick solutions to get rid of them. 

What is eating my dahlia leaves? Causes and fixes

Dahlia flowers are beautiful, multi-petaled blooms that are super-easy to grow. Unfortunately, they are also a favorite snack for several garden pests that can cause extensive damage to the leaves in just a night! 

If you are baffled about which garden visitors are devouring your gorgeous plants every night, then do check our list below as the culprit could be one of these:

1. Snails and slugs

Snails and slugs are omnivores that feed on decaying plant matter, fungi, and a variety of garden crops and flowers. As long as their population is kept to a healthy size, these slimy creatures can help clean up your garden by feeding on dead plant matter. Snails and slugs also serve as a food source for some insects and smaller animals, thus keeping the ecosystem balanced.

However, these soft-bodied pests can also cause great damage to your garden if their population becomes unmanageable. Snails and slugs can quickly consume the foliage of your dahlias and other garden plants which have taken you so much time and effort to grow. One tell-tale sign of a snail or slug infestation is the presence of slimy trails around the affected flower beds.

Here are some natural ways to get rid of snails and slugs in the garden:

• Place natural barriers and repellents such as rough mulch, crushed eggshells, nut hulls, diatomaceous earth, or wood ash around your dahlias.
• Invite natural predators like beetles, birds, toads, ducks, and chickens into your garden.
• Use homemade traps like overturned flowerpots, inverted saucers, grapefruit halves, and boards.
• Grow aromatic herbs and flowers that snails and slugs hate, such as rosemary, sage, nasturtium, California poppy, geranium, fuchsia, and impatiens. 

2. Caterpillars

Butterflies and moths can be lovely and beneficial for our gardens, but not caterpillars! These wriggly garden pests are voracious plant eaters and will consume any greens they can find, be it a vegetable crop or an ornamental plant. Unfortunately, your precious dahlia flowers are also one of their favorites!

Caterpillars typically leave a distinct chewing pattern from the outer edge towards the middle part of the leaves. They also love hiding inside the curled dahlia leaves as they continue to feed on the plant. So, if you notice rolled, curled leaves on your beautiful ornamentals, then it is probably a sign that caterpillars have been feasting on them.

Here are some effective ways to eliminate the caterpillars in your flower garden:

• Check the leaves of your dahlias in the early morning or evening and try to manually remove any caterpillars you see. This natural method is often the best way to control the early stages of infestation.
• Use natural microbial insecticides on the leaves that contain Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki to get rid of moth and butterfly larvae.
• Introduce natural predators into your garden, such as birds, toads, and frogs, to manage the caterpillar population.

3. Grasshoppers

Although grasshoppers are not a major threat to your dahlias, these insects might occasionally munch on their leaves, too. Like any other pests, grasshoppers can become a gardener’s nightmare if they are present in excessive numbers. One way to tell if your dahlias have fallen victim to grasshoppers is if you see round or ragged holes around the leaf margins and in between the leaf veins.

Unlike snails and caterpillars, it can be difficult to manually remove grasshoppers as they tend to jump very quickly. The best thing you can do is discard the damaged plant parts and try these solutions:

• Spray nosema locustae around your dahlia plants to get rid of the pests.
• Dust the plant leaves with all-purpose flour – this will gum up the grasshoppers’ mouthparts and prevent them from munching on the leaves.
• Spray the leaves with strong-scented substances to repel the insects. Create your DIY spray using one or a combination of these ingredients: garlic, rosemary, onion, cilantro, cayenne pepper, neem oil, and peppermint oil.

4. Thrips

Thrips are small insects with cigar-shaped bodies and fringed wings that feed on a variety of plants. They damage dahlia flowers by puncturing the plant’s leaves and sucking the sap from the tissue inside. The bites from these tiny pests can also spread a mosaic virus to your garden crops and flowers.

Unfortunately, it can be challenging to catch these little insects since they can quickly crawl or fly to another plant. Thrips can also reproduce fast and engulf your entire garden, so make sure to act right away at the first signs of infestation!

Follow these tips to get rid of garden thrips:

• Remove the pests by forcefully spraying the plant leaves with water. Do this three times a day every two days. 
• Apply insecticidal soaps and neem oil to the affected leaves.
• Add beneficial insects to your flower bed, such as ladybugs, Trichogramma wasps, predatory mites, and lacewings.

5. Earwigs

Earwigs can be a gardener’s friend or foe. For starters, these tiny omnivores can be very helpful in controlling unwanted pest populations in your compost pile by feeding on mites, aphids, certain nematodes, and insect larvae. Earwigs also love eating decaying plant matter in your garden, just like snails and slugs.

Unfortunately, earwigs can also eat your garden vegetables and ornamental plants, including your gorgeous dahlia flowers. These pests love munching on plant leaves and flowers, causing irregularly-shaped holes in their wake. Earwigs can also tunnel into the stems and flower buds and settle at the base of your plants.

Before their population grows out of control, it is very important to get rid of the pests at the earliest opportunity. These organic solutions should help you manage the infestation:

• Sprinkle a bit of diatomaceous earth around the base of your infected plants. We highly recommend using Safer Brand; this product is very effective for indoor and outdoor use.
• Add natural earwig predators into your garden, like birds, frogs, parasitic wasps, and spiders.
• Place earwig traps near the affected plants. You can use an old box with small holes and oatmeal as bait. 
• Use nematode Steinernema carpocapsae to control the earwig population in your garden.

6. Aphids

Aphids are another pest that dines on your dahlias’ leaves. They are tiny and almost invisible to the naked eye, and might be yellow, brown, black, or green. And, like other plant pests, aphids can eat away the leaves of your plants and cause extensive damage to your flower bed.

If you think your dahlia leaves are being eaten by aphids, do not despair. Follow these quick fixes to instantly kill the nuisances:

• Spray the infected leaves with a mixture of water and Dawn dishwashing soap.
• Apply natural insecticides like neem oil and horticultural oil whenever you see the little insects crawling on the leaf surfaces.
• Add beneficial insects into your garden, such as ladybugs, parasitic wasps, and lacewings. These natural predators love eating aphids and other destructive pests.

Do birds eat dahlias?

Birds do not eat the leaves of dahlia flowers. However, they do love eating insects like caterpillars that might be present in your plants. So, it is possible that these natural predators might slightly damage the leaves in the process.

Do rabbits feed on dahlia leaves?

Rabbits are not big fans of dahlia plants. However, these critters might still munch on the young dahlia leaves if they cannot find any other suitable food. Dahlias consumed in small quantities are not considered toxic to bunnies, so your pretty flowers might not be totally rabbit-resistant!

Do deer eat dahlias?

Although dahlias are not included in a deer’s favorite menu list, these four-legged visitors might occasionally munch on your favorite plants if their preferred food sources are sparse. So, never be too complacent! 

To prevent the hungry animals from attacking your dahlias, make sure to deer-proof your garden by putting up a fence. Remember that deer can jump over an obstruction as high as eight feet, so your fence should ideally be at least that tall!

Other threats to your dahlias

Aside from garden pests, certain other creatures can also consume and damage your ornamental plants. Some animals like squirrels, rats, gophers, voles, and chipmunks can devour dahlia bulbs as well as other plant bulbs in your garden. Make sure to keep an eye on these common four-legged pests and set up effective deterrents to keep them away from your garden.

Conclusion

Dahlias are undoubtedly attractive to many garden pests such as mollusks, caterpillars, thrips, grasshoppers, earwigs, and aphids. Thankfully, there are natural ways to get rid of these nuisances without using any harmful chemicals. However, for severe infestations, your last resort might be a stronger pesticide. Make sure to use these harsh chemicals with caution, though, as they can be toxic to both beneficial bugs and humans.

Image: istockphoto.com / Jonas Rönnbro

Many gardeners fell in love with the majestic foliage and beautiful blooms of weigelas. With a bit of maintenance and watering they can be a great addition to any garden or lawn, making these fast-growing shrubs friendly for newbie growers.

But, like most ornamental plants, weigelas can sometimes encounter problems, too. You might notice the stems or branches suddenly dying back, which is very frustrating – and worrying, too, if you do not know the exact cause!

But do not despair – we have listed below the most common reasons your weigela might look dead. Hopefully, you can use this information to troubleshoot your problem and bring your plant back to life.

Weigela plant overview

Weigela is a deciduous shrub that belongs to the honeysuckle family. It has tubular flowers that come in various shades of pink, making it an excellent ornamental for your garden or landscape. Beneficial birds and insects, such as hummingbirds and butterflies, also find its romantic charm irresistible.

Depending on the variety, weigela can grow up to ten feet high and 12 feet wide. However, some smaller varieties might only reach a height of 12 inches and a width of 18 inches at maturity. The green foliage is edged with different shades, from creamy white to soft yellow, which perfectly accentuates the beautiful blooms.

Although weigelas are usually planted as shrub borders or landscape decor, the smaller varieties can be displayed as indoor ornamentals when grown in containers. With all their different leaf variegations, sizes, and colors, you are sure to find a weigela to meet your specific purpose!

If you are keen to add this beautiful shrub to your garden collection, it is essential that you know its basic plant care needs. Some of the most important requirements of growing a weigela include adequate light and proper watering. 

While some varieties, specifically those with purple or chartreuse foliage, grow best in full sunlight, weigelas with variegated foliage will benefit more from partial shade. Hence, the sunlight preference of your chosen variety should also be considered. Damage from sunscald is also a risk if you move your plant too suddenly to a brightly-lit area. 

Another important factor that many inexperienced growers might easily overlook is the watering requirements of their plants. Weigelas generally need a good drink quite regularly until they are fully established. Once they have reached maturity, they will demand very little watering, unless the weather is particularly hot and dry.

An unhealthy and dying weigela is often the ugly consequence of improper plant care, from improper watering habits to inadequate sunlight exposure. Further neglect of the underlying issue will soon result in root rot, fungal leaf disease, and pest infestation. 

Why my weigela looks dead – causes and fixes

Saving a dying weigela plant requires the correct diagnosis and solution. Check the symptoms below to see what best matches the current condition of your plant:

1. Underwatering

Brown and brittle leaves are a classic sign of an underwatered plant. Assess your weigela’s leaves – do they look dry and lifeless? Are they curling or wilting? If yes, then your weigela may be struggling with drought stress due to lack of water.

To assess the moisture level of your plant’s soil, feel its top layer with your finger or insert a soil moisture meter about two inches into the soil. This should give you an idea of whether your weigela needs a drink or not. 

2. Root rot

Root rot is a common plant disease that can cause great damage to your weigela’s root system. If your plant has been sitting in waterlogged soil for a prolonged period, there is a chance that the roots will suffocate and drown due to lack of access to oxygen. They will then begin to rot, and the rot will eventually spread throughout the plant, cutting short its life.

There are two main culprits behind root rot disease – one is overwatering and the second is poorly-draining soil. Both of these mistakes can leave the soil too saturated and promote the growth of fungal pathogens. 

Unfortunately, it can be difficult to tell when your weigela is struggling with root rot, because the earliest symptoms occur under the ground. This means that you will need to take the plant out of its pot to check the roots. Healthy weigela plants should have firm, white roots. If the roots look dark and mushy and have a foul smell, you are likely dealing with root rot.

How often should your weigela be watered?

A fully-established weigela requires moderate watering – about one to two inches of rainfall per week. Supplemental watering might also be necessary if you live in an area with a hot climate and less rainfall. 

3. Twig blight disease

Twig blight is one of the many types of fungal diseases that can affect weigelas. The fungal spores mainly attack the tips of the plant’s branches, resulting in necrotic brown lesions. Younger weigela plants tend to be more vulnerable to this disease than those that are older than five years.

Early intervention through the use of copper or lime sulfur fungicides might prevent the disease from spreading further. But, for severely infected plants, it is best to discard them to protect the other, healthier plants in your garden.

4. Leaf spot disease

Fungal leaf spot occurs when fungal spores find a suitable home in the warm, damp leaves of your weigela. The first signs of this disease include the presence of yellow, tan, or brown spots on the leaf surface. Over time, the pinhead-sized spots or lesions can combine to become large blotches that encompass the entire leaf.

Application of preventative fungicides during the early stage of the disease gives you the best chance at saving your weigela. Make sure to choose a treatment that contains any of these active ingredients: iprodione, fludioxonil, azoxystrobin, chlorothalonil, or mancozeb.

5. Botrytis cinerea

Another fungal disease that can severely damage or kill your weigela is Botrytis. Also known as gray mold disease, Botrytis is caused by Botrytis cinerea, a type of fungus that attacks the leaves and stems of your plants. The affected plants will usually display yellowed leaves that curl inwards, followed by gray-brown lesions or cankers that spread through the leaves and stems.

The most effective way to deal with gray mold disease in your weigela is to cut off the infected parts and spray the plant with disinfectants like diluted bleach or alcohol. Make sure to disinfect all your gardening tools as well, to avoid spreading the fungus.

6. Aphid and mealybug infestations

There is nothing more frustrating than dealing with these tiny nuisances that cause havoc on your garden plants. Pests like mealybugs and aphids can be very problematic to weigelas, as they suck the precious nutrients from the foliage, causing the plants to lose their vigor.

Mealybug infestations are characterized by cotton-like growth around the leaves and stems of the affected weigela. Horticultural oil and neem oil are so far the best organic treatments available to eliminate both adult pests and their eggs. Spray the solution on the infected parts of the plants three times a day for up to ten days, or until the pests are completely eradicated.

Aphids, meanwhile, excrete a honeydew substance on the leaf surface that attracts sooty mold and ants. These tiny pests cause the leaves to curl and turn yellow as the plant struggles with the impact of the infestation. Several solutions can be implemented to eliminate aphids, such as:

• manually removing the pests using cotton wool dipped in alcohol.
• attracting natural predators like ladybugs and wasps.
• applying insecticidal soaps and oils to manage larger infestations.

7. Frost damage

Frost damage in weigelas can sometimes be confused with twig blight due to their similar symptoms. If you notice the tips of the branches turning brown during the cold months, then it is likely that your plant is struggling with frostbite.

Freezing temperatures can disrupt the water flow within delicate plant tissue, which is why your weigela’s leaves will be shriveled as if they are dying. Unfortunately, the only solution is to wait until the cold season is over. You should never prune the damaged parts of your plant, as this will likely cause them further stress. 

After the last frost has passed, you can prune away the dead sections of your weigela, and during the spring months it should start growing and blooming once again.

Do weigelas lose their leaves in winter?

Since the weigela is a deciduous shrub, it will likely lose most of its leaves during wintertime. Unfortunately, this lack of leaves will expose its delicate stems to the sunlight on cold, bright days, increasing the risk of sunscald. If you notice stems or shoots starting to shrivel and become dry, cover them immediately with a commercial tree wrap to keep them warm.

How to revive a dying weigela

Once you have diagnosed the underlying cause of your dying weigela, it is very important to correct your plant care errors to prevent these problems from happening again in the future. 

Improper watering is often the culprit of foliage damage, which can be exacerbated by fungal diseases and pest infestations. So, make sure to keep your weigela healthy and strong to reduce the risk of pests and fungal issues. 

It is also best to cut back the damaged leaves and stems of your plant, preferably during the spring season. By doing so, your weigela can focus on new growth and possibly also more blooms later in the growing season.

Conclusion

Weigelas might be low-maintenance and easy to care for, but they can also be vulnerable to certain issues. If you are considering adding this beautiful, hardy shrub to your own garden, make sure that you have educated yourself on the common problems above, so that you know how to avoid them in the future!

Image: istockphoto.com / Magdalena Nowak

The bird’s nest fern is one of the many unique houseplants that is easy and low-maintenance to grow. However, it can be vulnerable to fungal issues that can be challenging to treat, one of which is crown rot disease.

Overwatering is the leading cause of crown rot, but other factors like a lack of sunlight or poor soil drainage can also exacerbate the issue.

We will discuss below exactly what crown rot is in bird’s nest ferns, and how to tackle this dreadful plant disease.

What is crown rot disease?

Crown rot is described as a soft decay found at the center of a plant. It is mainly caused by soil-borne fungal pathogens which attack the plant’s lower branches that are near to the soil. Any plant can get crown rot disease, be it a tree, an ornamental plant, or even a vegetable crop. Unfortunately, there is no effective cure for crown rot once the symptoms are present.

Is my bird’s nest fern dying?

There are many possible reasons your ferns might die, and one of these is fungal diseases such as crown rot.

The most obvious sign of crown rot in a bird’s nest fern is the browning of the fronds and crown. At first, you might think that the plant is simply struggling with drought and give it more water – until it is too late. Soon, the dead tissue will start spreading to the branches and then throughout the plant. By this time, there is little you can do to save your bird’s nest fern – you will likely have to throw it away and start over with a new plant.

What causes bird’s nest fern crown rot?

1. Overwatering

Crown rot disease is one of the many consequences of overwatering. So, before you pamper your plants, put down your watering can and listen up! 

Bird’s nest ferns typically need watering once every week or two, although this also depends on current weather conditions. The golden rule is to allow the top layer of soil to dry out completely in between waterings. Give the plant more water during the hot, dry season, and reduce your watering during the colder months. At all costs, avoid giving it more water than it needs!

If you keep overwatering your plants, the soil will become saturated and create an ideal growing environment for fungal spores. Thus, this waterlogged state is what you need to avoid to prevent fungal-related diseases like crown rot.

Aside from crown rot disease, an overwatered bird’s nest fern also becomes vulnerable to other issues like pest infestation, root damage, leaf discoloration and, eventually, death. 

2. Frequent overhead irrigation

Many gardeners argue that watering from above is not advisable for most plants, while others believe that this is just a myth. There might be mixed opinions when it comes to the correct watering technique, but the fact remains – the longer you keep your plants’ foliage wet, the more chance of promoting fungal and bacterial growth. 

For this reason, overhead watering is generally discouraged, especially if you water your plants late in the afternoon, since this can leave the foliage wet throughout the evening. As mentioned previously, fungal spores thrive in damp environments, so overhead watering, especially at the wrong time, can play a role in the development of crown rot.

The most recommended watering technique is to water your plants directly at the roots. Unlike overhead watering, direct watering of the soil reduces water waste and prevents the leaves from getting wet. But again, timing is key. If you water your plants in the late afternoon when the day is cooling off, you might increase the risk of root rot.

3. Using soil with poor drainage

Compacted soil tends to hold more water, so be careful when choosing a soil type for your bird’s nest fern. Even if you are not overwatering, using a poorly-draining pot or soil can still result in root rot and crown rot diseases.

To avoid overly damp soil, we recommend using a potting mix for orchids that has a high peat content. This will keep the soil moist, but not waterlogged. 

Remember that an underwatered bird’s nest fern is easier to save than an overwatered one. Make sure that the soil is loose and well-draining, and avoid using pots or containers without drainage holes!

4. Lack of light

Did you know that a lack of sunlight can also put your plants at risk of fungal diseases? 

We are all probably aware of the sun’s important role in the process of photosynthesis. If your plant is light-deprived, it will eventually show signs of distress, the most obvious usually being yellowing leaves.

But apart from this issue, a lack of exposure to sunlight combined with overly moist soil can further encourage fungal spores to thrive. Without light, it will take longer for the soil to dry, thus promoting the same symptoms as overwatering.

For optimal growth, therefore, it is crucial to place your bird’s nest fern in an area that gets filtered sunlight. Note that too much bright light can also be bad for it, since it can wrinkle or burn the foliage. 

Watch out for mold as well – this is a sure sign that your bird’s nest fern is struggling with overwatering and a lack of light.

Can you save a bird’s nest fern with crown rot?

Unfortunately, crown rot disease in bird’s nest ferns can be very challenging to treat, especially when the disease has become severe. In most cases, the affected plant will die prematurely, which is why plants with crown rot are often thrown away.

Your best weapon against crown rot disease is to prevent it from happening in the first place. As mentioned already, avoid overwatering your fern at all costs. Make it a habit to check the soil regularly so that you know when your plant needs hydration. Giving the soil time to dry out between waterings will help prevent soil-borne pathogens from ravaging your fern.

Although fungicides are available, they are often only effective when used as a preventative measure, or if the disease is caught early enough. Once the fungus has started to spread on the crown, the best you can do is as follows:

• Discard the infected plant, and do not use it in your compost heap!
• If it was planted in the ground, replace the soil up to about six or eight inches deep. You can also solarize the infected soil by covering it with clear plastic and allowing it to dry under the sun for three months.
• Apply fungicides, like mancozeb or thiophanate methyl. If you prefer an organic approach, you can skip this step and just follow the ones mentioned previously.
• Do not be afraid to try all over again, keeping in mind the lessons you have learned from your previous plant.

Tips to prevent bird’s nest fern crown rot

Crown rot disease can be really tough to treat. Thankfully, though, with proper care, the disease can be completely prevented, instead. You will not have to endure all the hassle and heartache of replacing an infected bird’s nest fern if you just follow these steps:

1. Pick a healthy variety

Bird’s nest fern only comes in a few varieties, but you can pick a healthy one depending on your preferences and the location where you intend it to grow. For example, the Osaka variety can be a great ornamental plant, both in your indoor living space or your outdoor garden, since it can tolerate various lighting conditions.

2. Use a well-draining soil mix

Well-draining soil is a basic growing requirement for all plants – not just bird’s nest ferns – because it allows their roots to breathe. A peat-based potting mix rich in organic matter is by far the best growing medium for a healthy bird’s nest fern.

3. Give plenty of filtered light

Most bird’s nest fern varieties thrive in filtered sunlight. If you are growing yours indoors, the ideal location should be near a north- or east-facing window.

4. Use appropriate watering techniques

While watering your plants from above might help clean their dusty leaves every now and then, this technique is not always recommended. The leaves must be kept dry as much as possible to discourage fungal diseases. Make sure to water your fern directly into the soil – not only to help keep the pathogens away, but also to waste less water.

5. Do not overwater

Overwatering is the easiest way to kill a plant! If you want to keep your fern healthy and thriving for years to come, make sure to give it just enough water – not more or less. Use a soil moisture meter to help you determine the best time to water your plants.

6. Do not over-fertilize

Feeding your plants more does not equate to better or faster growth. Bird’s nest ferns should only be given a half-strength dilution of your chosen fertilizer, and only during the growing season. Do not apply fertilizer during the cold months.

7. Maintain a warm, humid environment

Bird’s nest ferns are native to tropical regions, so they grow better in warmer temperatures – preferably between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Note that their native habitat is also humid, so although they might tolerate lower humidity levels, they will thrive in an area with 30 to 50 percent humidity.

Conclusion

Crown rot is a serious fungal disease with no known cure, and saving your dying bird’s nest fern is likely to be a futile effort! The only way to win the battle against this soil-borne disease is to implement preventative measures and give your plant the best possible care to keep the pathogens at bay.

Image: istockphoto.com / SangSanit

If you are a big fan of Mexican dishes, you will probably love growing your own tomatillos in your garden. These fruits are sometimes called husk tomatoes, and are closely related to tomato plants. However, they do not taste like tomatoes! Instead, tomatillos are a mixture of sweet, tart, and fruity – a bit like a blend of lemons and herbs.

Growing your own tomatillos can be very rewarding, but if their leaves start turning yellow and looking unhealthy, your joy might turn to frustration very quickly! If you are seeking answers as to why your tomatillo leaves are turning yellow, you are on the right page. We have listed below the possible reasons your plant might suddenly look pale and sad, as well as how you can correct the issue.

Causes of tomatillo leaves turning yellow

1. Overwatering and poor drainage

Too much watering is the leading cause of yellowing tomatillo leaves – and, unfortunately, this watering mistake tends to be quite common among inexperienced growers! Aside from yellowing, overwatered tomatillo plants are also at high risk of developing root rot and fungal diseases.

So, how often should you water tomatillo plants?

When it comes to watering your tomatillo plants, the rule of thumb is fairly straightforward – water only when the top layers of soil have had time to dry out after the last watering. Under normal weather conditions, about an inch of water per week should suffice.

2. Drought and underwatering

Excessively dry soil and long periods of neglect can also cause your tomatillo’s leaves to yellow. Although these crops are moderately drought-tolerant, they certainly cannot survive without adequate hydration. 

Like all plants, tomatillos need water to perform the metabolic processes required for growth and fruit production. Water is also essential to maintain their vigor and turgidity. Hence, if your plants are deprived of water, they will droop and start suffering from leaf discolorations due to extreme dehydration. If this goes on for too long, your tomatillo plants will eventually die.

Usually, underwatering is easier to solve than overwatering. If you think the yellow leaves are due to underwatering, just giving your plants a good soak should ensure a full recovery. 

3. Lighting issues

Lighting conditions can make or break your success when it comes to growing any plant including tomatillos. Too much heat and sunlight exposure can easily burn their delicate leaves. Conversely, if you keep them in the shade for too long, the lack of sunlight can inhibit their photosynthesis, resulting in pale and unhealthy-looking foliage.

Hence, an optimal level of light is key to keeping their leaves green and healthy. Make sure to select an appropriate location where these nightshade plants can get about six hours of sunlight every day. 

4. Lack of soil nutrients

The naturally-occurring organic matter in the soil should serve as a reservoir of macronutrients essential for plants to flourish. In reality, though, not all gardeners are lucky enough to own a backyard with nutrient-rich soil. This means that you will probably need to use fertilizer to keep your garden healthy – even more so if your plants are grown in pots. 

But how do you know if your tomatillo plants are nutrient-deprived? Depending on the type of nutrient deficiency, some of the tell-tale signs of undernourished tomatillo plants are as follows:

• Magnesium deficiency: Tomatillo plants with this deficiency tend to display yellow leaves which later progress into brown, necrotic spots. A magnesium deficiency can be fixed by adding Epsom salts to the soil during the autumn or winter seasons. Once the soil is replenished, you can expect healthier and bushier plants in the next growing season.

• Nitrogen deficiency: A lack of nitrogen can cause tomatillo leaves to become pale and yellow. That is because nitrogen is an essential nutrient responsible for the green color of the leaves. You might also notice that the affected plant has stiff stems and petioles, dropping foliage, and reduced growth. Adding a nitrogen-rich fertilizer or decomposed manure should help you fix this issue.

• Potassium deficiency: One of the obvious signs of potassium deficiency in tomatillo plants is yellowing leaves, especially around the edges. Although the fruit might retain its green color at the base of the stalk, the leaves often become dull and dry. A quick fix for this issue is to feed the plants with a potassium-rich fertilizer.

• Sulfur deficiency: Similar to other nutrient deficiencies, a lack of sulfur can cause chlorosis (or yellowing leaves) in tomatillo plants. At first, you might notice the upper leaves turning pale and yellow, but this unsightly discoloration will soon begin to affect the lower leaves, too, until the entire tomatillo plant becomes yellow. The best thing you can do to solve this deficiency is to enrich the soil with fertilizer or compounds rich in sulfur. Composted mushroom is also an excellent option if you prefer organic fertilizers.

5. Downy mildew

Downy mildew is a plant disease that can greatly affect the yield and quality of your tomatillos. At first, it might be a bit tricky to recognize the disease, especially for inexperienced gardeners. Some of the signs you should look out for are:

• Discolored blotches that appear on the upper surface of the leaves.
• Shriveling and yellowing or browning of the foliage.
• Mold-like growth that appears on the underside of the leaves.
• Loss of vigor in affected plants.

Unfortunately, there are no effective fungicides available to completely eradicate this disease. The best thing you can do is establish preventative measures to protect your tomatillos from getting infected in the first place. 

Here are some tips to prevent downy mildew:

• Avoid dense planting, in order to promote air circulation in your garden.
• Do not water your plants in the evening. Instead, water them early in the morning so that the leaves have enough time to dry during the course of the day.
• Discard any plants that are affected by the disease. Never reuse them in your compost bin or any other area of your garden.
• Make it a habit to disinfect your gardening tools after using them.

6. Psyllid infestation

Psyllids, also known as jumping plant lice, are plant-feeding insects that suck the sap from your tomatillos’ leaves and cause them to turn yellow. Aside from competing with the plant for nutrients, these pests also leave a honeydew substance on the leaves that promotes the growth of sooty mold. 

Organic options like neem oil or insecticidal soaps will usually solve this problem. Simply spray the liquid mixture while the insects are feeding on the leaves. For severe infestations, we recommend using stronger, long-lasting insecticides that contain Bifenthrin to kill the pests and prevent them from coming back.

Can yellow tomatillo leaves become green again?

Plants often reveal their unhealthy state through the yellowing of their leaves. If your tomatillo leaves are turning yellow, it is obviously a sign of distress which might be caused by improper watering, fungal and pest issues, or inadequate sunlight. Unfortunately, once the leaves have turned yellow, they will not regain their green color again. 

Should I remove the yellow leaves?

If the entire leaf has turned yellow, you can trim it off so that the plant can focus its resources on the other, healthier leaves. Removing the yellow leaves will also help encourage new growth and keep your tomatillo plants in their best shape.

Some growers also snip off a few yellow leaves simply because they find them unappealing. This is perfectly okay, as long as you are only cutting the dead leaves.

How to fix yellowing leaves on tomatillo plants

Fixing tomatillo plants with yellow leaves might require some effort and patience, depending on the severity of the issue. In most cases, plants can recover quickly if the problem is corrected at an early stage, whether this is related to improper watering or other unfavorable growing conditions. 

Early diagnosis of a pest infestation is also critical. As mentioned before, organic solutions such as neem oil and insecticidal soaps often work wonders to kill pests and prevent them from coming back. However, insecticides that contain stronger chemicals might be your only option for severe infestations.

For more serious issues like fungal infections, rescuing a dying plant might be more challenging. Often, saving the affected plant might be an impractical approach, and the best thing you can do is remove the plant and start all over again.

Conclusion

Plant leaves that are turning yellow are usually a red flag, so you should never take this symptom lightly! Thankfully, you can usually revive a yellowing plant, provided you are able to diagnose the issue at an early stage. Make sure to correct your watering habits, and also check for nutritional deficiencies. 

Prevention is better than cure, so try to keep your tomatillos healthy at all times to prevent unwanted pest infestations and fungal diseases. However, should these occur, early action is crucial. With a bit of patience and loving care, your tomatillo plants should recover in no time!

Image: istockphoto.com / Petra Richli

The most exciting part of growing a nasturtium is to witness its vibrant flowers in bloom. Nasturtiums are one of the easiest flowering annuals to grow, and we all probably cannot wait to enjoy their gorgeous blossoms as part of our wall or garden decor.

So, when do nasturtiums actually bloom? Let us find out below!

Nasturtium plant care – overview

At some point, you have probably envied someone else’s garden that is adorned with beautiful nasturtium blooms. And now, perhaps, you have decided to embark on your own journey of growing this plant, to add some life to your boring lawn.

But what exactly are nasturtiums, and how do you grow and care for these plants?

Nasturtiums, whose botanical genus is Tropaeolum, can be both perennial or annual plants that produce vibrantly colored flowers. Although they come in different varieties, they are often identified as a bush type (Tropaeolum minus) or a trailing type (Tropaeolum majus). 

The bushy nasturtiums, or dwarf nasturtiums, are the best choice to plant in gardens with limited space. For wall decor or hanging baskets, the trailing nasturtiums are often preferred.

Aside from being lovely plants, nasturtiums are also widely used for companion planting. The sweet fragrance of their flowers can draw damaging pests like aphids away from valuable garden crops, making them one of a gardener’s best friends. Nasturtiums are pretty good at attracting beneficial pollinators, too, such as butterflies, hummingbirds, and bees.

But nasturtiums are more than just a pretty face! Every part of the plant is edible – the leaves, flowers, stems, and young seed pods. In fact, their mustard-like flavor makes a great addition to salads. Overall, this makes nasturtiums very versatile compared to most vegetables and flowering plants.

To succeed in growing a nasturtium plant, keep in mind that proper watering and favorable soil conditions are extremely important. The rule is simple – do not overwater your nasturtiums and make sure to plant them in well-draining, sandy soil. It is also discouraged to use nutrient-rich soil, as this can result in overly abundant foliage growth at the expense of flowers.

Lastly, keep in mind that full sunlight is an important ingredient to promote vigorous growth of these flowers. Avoid planting your nasturtiums in shady areas if you want them to bloom profusely.

When do nasturtiums bloom?

The most awaited moment, after spending weeks caring for a nasturtium plant, is seeing its beautiful, brightly-colored flowers. And, like most flowering plants, nasturtiums do have a certain time of the year when they tend to produce more blooms.

If you are like most curious gardeners, you probably have a few questions about your nasturtium’s blooming period. Check out the commonly asked questions below to learn more about this flowering plant.

1.  In what month do nasturtiums bloom?

As mentioned previously, nasturtiums thrive in warm climates, so it should not be a surprise that their pretty flowers bloom more profusely during the warmer months. This means you will likely see your nasturtiums flowering from May until September. Make sure to provide them with the best possible care during these months, so that you can enjoy more blooms in your garden.

2. How long does it take for nasturtiums to bloom?

Nasturtiums are one of the easiest and fastest-flowering plants to grow. They typically start to flower about four to six weeks after planting, and the blooming period tends to last fairly long. Since nasturtiums prefer warmer temperatures, they are best planted after the threat of frost has ended.

3. Will nasturtiums come back every year?

Although nasturtiums are considered perennials in zones nine to 11, they are more generally considered annuals. Hence, at the end of their growing cycle, nasturtiums can re-seed themselves and come back every year. Their seeds can germinate quickly, too! 

Nasturtiums typically produce beautiful blooms within a month or two after the seeds have successfully germinated. However, they might not flower throughout the year since they favor the warmer months to bloom.

Common reasons nasturtiums do not bloom

Many gardeners are huge fans of nasturtiums, thanks to their beautiful, showy flowers. But what if your plants are not producing the blooms you expected? We have listed the most common reasons below:

1. Soil is too fertile

Contrary to what many might think, nasturtiums thrive best in poor soil; fertile soil will not promote blooming. 

You might still grow your nasturtiums in nutrient-rich soil, but this will lead to bushier growth of the leaves instead of the flowers – and most gardeners grow nasturtiums for their gorgeous blooms, rather than the foliage!

To encourage your nasturtiums to bloom, choose a free-draining sandy soil as a growing medium. Do not add fertilizers, especially those high in nitrogen, as this can hinder flower production.

2. Low temperatures

Nasturtiums tend to produce more flowers during the warmest months of the year. So, if you are not seeing your plants bloom, it may be because the cold months are not yet over! Wait for the summer months to arrive and, as the temperatures begin to rise, your nasturtiums are sure to display their sweet, jewel-toned flowers.

3. Lack of sunlight

Nasturtiums are sun-loving plants, and for best results they need about six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day.

If your nasturtiums are not producing their pretty blooms, could it be that they are not receiving sufficient sunlight? They might still grow in partial shade, but they would be very unlikely to produce flowers.

Knowing the importance of full sunlight exposure, you should therefore relocate your nasturtiums to an area where they can get enough of it. Just make sure to slowly acclimatize them to the brighter location to avoid temperature stress.

4. Improper pruning

Nasturtiums do not necessarily need regular pruning, but in some cases they might benefit from pruning and deadheading to maintain their size and shape.

If you are growing your plants in a container or hanging basket, pruning them from time to time might be best to manage their size. The trailing varieties can also become leggy and messy, and cutting them back is the best way to prevent them from invading the space of other plants in your garden. Trim the stems by about six to 12 inches to keep them shapely and within your desired size. For the bush varieties, you can pinch off spent flowers and dried leaves to promote new growth.

However, you should only cut them back after your nasturtiums are done flowering – preferably around late spring. Severe pruning might also prevent them from flowering, so make sure to prune only when necessary.  

5. Your plants need more time to flower

Sometimes, all you need is a little patience to see your plants produce their beautiful blooms. Nasturtiums need about four to six weeks to grow from seedlings to fully-established plants. Under the right growing conditions, you should be able to enjoy their flowers around the sixth week after planting.

Conclusion

Nasturtiums prefer warmer conditions to thrive, so expect them to flower during the summer months until autumn. While waiting for the beautiful flowers to arrive, make sure that your plants receive the best possible care for faster and healthier growth. And, most importantly, have patience! Under favorable conditions, your efforts will surely be rewarded with gorgeous blooms that you can enjoy as garden decor or an addition to your salads! 

Image: istockphoto.com / Quasarphoto

Plumerias, also known as lei flowers or frangipani, are small tropical trees popular for their fragrant and beautiful blooms. If you are thinking of adding this gorgeous plant to your garden, you will need to be aware of its general care requirements.

Like any other houseplant, your plumeria can face various plant issues – and the curling of its leaves is an early clue that something is not right with your plant! 

So, why are your plumeria’s leaves curling, and how can you prevent this? All of the reasons and remedies are explained in detail below!

Why are my plumeria leaves curling?

Any gardener dreads the day they see their houseplants’ leaves start curling. We all agree that this is unsightly, and it detracts from the beauty of our ornamental plants. Sadly, though, your precious plumeria is not completely immune to this issue.

But what does it mean when plant leaves start curling? 

In general, plants’ leaves curl as a sign of distress. The reason could be improper watering, pest infestation, unfavorable growing conditions, and other factors. While different plant species might have different growing requirements, there are some basic needs that they all share, those being proper watering, adequate sunlight, and well-draining soil. A lack of any of these could make your plants unhealthy and vulnerable to diseases.

The same rule applies to plumerias. As you might know, these tropical, flowering plants are accustomed to getting a few hours of full sunlight per day, and growing in soil that is rich in organic matter, just as they would experience in their native environment. Emulating this habitat in your garden will keep your plumerias growing to their full potential.

In most cases, however, we do not have such a perfect environment for our tropical plants. For this reason, it is important to make adjustments on our end to ensure that all of their growing requirements are met. That includes adding fertilizers, using a well-draining soil mix, choosing the right location for optimum light, and checking the soil before watering.

If your plumeria’s leaves are curling, it is likely caused by a lack of proper care. For starters, you might need to review your watering routine. Most plants will lose their vigor if they do not receive adequate amounts of water. Check the roots as well, as the issue might be related to poor soil quality. 

If everything seems fine, do not stop investigating yet – also check the temperature, humidity, and light levels. Pests can also be a culprit, especially if your plant is already struggling with a pre-existing disease.

Troubleshooting a plumeria’s curling leaves can be frustrating, especially if you cannot seem to pinpoint the exact issue. But, once you have determined the problem, it will be much easier to identify the right solution to bring your plant back to health. Do not lose heart – we have summarized everything you need to know about curling plumeria leaves and how to deal with them!

Common causes of curling plumeria leaves

Sometimes, we can overlook the smallest detail when it comes to caring for our plants. Plumeria leaves can curl and turn yellow or brown for so many reasons – from a simple lack of watering to more serious issues like root rot or pest infestation. Let us go through the details below to learn more.

1. Underwatering

Drought is the leading cause of curling and wrinkled leaves in plumerias. If you are guilty of neglecting your plant for too long, then a lack of water could be the culprit.

Like most plants, plumerias prefer their soil slightly moist. During the hot season, a water-deprived plumeria will react to drought stress by curling its leaves to conserve moisture and stay alive. 

To revive your plant, simply rehydrate the roots by giving them a good soak for a few minutes. Then allow the excess water to drain from the pot. Adding mulch to the soil will also help keep it moist and cool during the hot summer months.

Your next step is to correct your watering routine. So, how often should you be watering your plumeria?

Under normal weather conditions, it is recommended to water a plumeria once every one to two weeks, or whenever the top layer of soil feels dry. Increase the watering frequency if the weather is particularly hot, and reduce it during the colder months. The trick is to keep the soil slightly moist while still protecting the roots from overly saturated soil.

2. Root damage due to overwatering

Root rot is one of your plant’s top enemies. If you are prone to watering your plumeria excessively, there is a good chance that it might be struggling with root damage. You can confirm this by carefully lifting your plant from its pot and checking the roots. Remember that healthy roots should appear white and firm; if you see roots that look dark and mushy, then you are probably dealing with root rot.

The only way to save an overwatered plumeria is to repot it. Remove the plant from its soil, cut away the damaged roots and rinse the remaining healthy ones. You can also apply a fungicide to kill any remaining fungal spores. Then transfer your plant to a fresh pot with good drainage and a fresh, loose soil mix. 

All of that said, repotting a plumeria with extensive root damage might be futile, since the plant will likely die anyway. In this case, your best option is to discard the infected plumeria and start all over again.

3. Plumeria leaf rust

If the curling of the leaves is accompanied by powdery lesions and yellow spots on the foliage, then you are likely dealing with leaf rust.

Leaf rust, or brown rust, is a common fungal plant disease caused by airborne pathogens. The spores on the infected leaves are usually spread through the wind or splashing water. Warm and humid environments also create favorable conditions for these pathogens to reproduce.

If you think your plumeria is struggling with leaf rust disease, you might still be able to save it through a timely response and the application of fungicides. Make sure to trim off the badly infected leaves to avoid spreading the disease to other, healthy plants.

4. Nutrient deficiencies

Another potential reason your plumeria’s leaves are curling is nutrient deficiency. If the leaves are turning brown or yellow, your plant might be struggling with a lack of nitrogen and magnesium.

Plumerias can benefit greatly from nutrient-rich soil, so it is recommended to fertilize them once every two to three weeks during their growing season. If you add a nitrogen-rich fertilizer, this will encourage the growth of leaves, but less flowering. If your goal is to produce beautiful blooms, it is best to use a fertilizer like Nelson Plant Food which is high in phosphate.

5. Aphid, mealybug, and spider mite infestations

Sap-sucking pests like aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites can cause a great amount of damage to the leaves of your plumeria. 

Curling, wilting, and dropping of the leaves are signs that your plant may be depleted of nutrients due to infestation. Once the damage is extensive, you will likely notice visible holes on the leaves, unsightly spots and streaks on the leaf surface, stunted growth of your plant, and the presence of a honeydew substance on the foliage that soon turns into a black, sooty mold.

Pest infestations can be frustrating to deal with, so it is very important to establish effective preventative measures to avoid them wreaking havoc in the first place. But, if you already have the infestation, you might still save your plant through these techniques:

• Spray water on the leaves to dislodge the pests.
• Wipe the leaves with a cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol.
• Spray neem oil on the foliage to get rid of the insects.
• For severe infestations, apply insecticidal soap to the leaves. You should also trim off any severely damaged branches.

6. Heat stress

Sometimes, leaf curling in plumerias is brought on by hot weather and a lack of water.

As you might know, plants lose moisture from their leaves through a process called transpiration. This is simply a plant’s way of cooling off, and happens more on hot days. However, the intense heat of the sun can also burn your plant’s foliage. To prevent further loss of moisture, plants naturally curl their leaves. In severe cases, heat stress might also cause the leaves to become brown and brittle.

As soon as you notice your plumeria leaves curling, relocate your plant to an area away from direct sunlight. Make sure it receives filtered light, though, to maintain its lush growth. 

7. Too much fertilizer

While plumeria plants appreciate a little nutrient boost, feeding them excessively can have detrimental effects. Overfertilization can damage the roots and cause nutrient uptake issues. Curling leaves might just be the first sign of a distressed plant, while severe cases will make them vulnerable to plant diseases and pest infestation.

If you think overfertilization is the culprit of your plant’s curling leaves, flush the excess chemicals from the soil with water. The next time you fertilize your plants, make sure to feed them only once every two to three weeks, at a diluted dosage. 

8. Transplant shock 

If you have recently moved your plumeria to a new pot, this could be the reason its leaves are curling. Do not worry – this reaction is normal in most plants. 

Repotting can be very stressful for your plants; make sure you do not damage the roots in the process and add to the stress! Once your plumeria starts to adapt to its new environment, it should return to its normal healthy state.

Conclusion

Curling leaves not only look unsightly; they are also a clear indicator that your plumeria is struggling with a problem. It could be caused by a lack of proper care and improper watering, or a more serious infestation or fungal disease. So, take heed of your plant’s early warning! That way, you can hopefully correct the problem sooner rather than later and prevent it from happening in the future.

Image: istockphoto.com / kontrymphoto

Tulips are one of the most beautiful things you can see after the long months of winter. We all look forward to these brightly colored jewels and their green leaves as they start to emerge in early spring. 

Unfortunately, these flowers are also a favorite delicacy for rabbits, rodents, and deer. And the last thing you want to see is your entire flower garden being destroyed by these creatures in a single night!

If you are baffled about what animal is eating your tulips, read on! Hopefully, you will find the answers and the right solutions in this guide.

What animal eats tulips: Common critters that can ruin your garden

Tulips take months to grow and bloom – not to mention all the hard work before you can finally enjoy a display of these spring-flowering bulbs in your landscape.

Your tulip-growing journey can be a tough road – many animals love the taste of tulips and you will have to face these enemies along the way! But do not lose hope – there are ways to outwit the hungry foragers and keep your tulips safe.

But first, let us learn the most common culprits behind the ruin of your tulip garden. By knowing your enemies, you can more easily devise an effective deterrent to keep them away for good.

1. Rabbits

If you have tons of bunnies in your area, chances are most of your tulips will be gone before they even flower! Hungry rabbits love nibbling on any part of a tulip, from the leaves and stem to the emerging buds. Keep in mind that rabbits have large front teeth that can make quick work of your crops and flowers. They are excellent burrowers too, just like other rodent pests. If you do not take precautions, these deceptively cute critters will not hesitate to devour your favorite spring flowers and ruin the entire garden.

2. Deer

Deer love to eat every kind of vegetation they can find, including tulips! In fact, the fresh green leaves and newly-emerged bulbs of your tulips are one of their favorites. They can even devour an entire bed of tulip bulbs if you are not careful.

Unfortunately, it can be challenging to catch them in the act, since these animals usually raid your garden at night. Deer eat a huge amount of greens every day, meaning they can quickly ruin a year’s worth of hard work in your garden! So, if you live in an area where deer are regularly spotted, make sure to deer-proof your tulip garden. 

3. Squirrels

Squirrels are another pest that you might find snacking on your tulip flowers. Not only can they cause a great deal of frustration; but they will also hinder the progress of your spring-blooming bulbs. If you have a large population of squirrels living in nearby trees, you might need to implement extensive control measures to keep your tulips safe.

Squirrels are known to have an excellent sense of smell, and they can certainly pick up the scent of tasty crops and flowers nearby. These opportunistic creatures will happily watch you plant your bulbs, anticipating a great feast shortly after you have finished working. Squirrels have sharp front teeth that can dispose of your hard-won tulips in a flash – they might even do it in front of your eyes, adding insult to injury!

Knowing that tulips are a favorite on their menu, you should make sure never to leave your tulip garden vulnerable to squirrels. Otherwise, you will find them digging up your flowers and wreaking havoc all over your garden!  

4. Rats

Nobody wants to deal with a rat infestation! Unfortunately, though, these rodents are everywhere. They will consume any kind of vegetation they might find – including your beautiful tulip flowers. If you planted your tulips in autumn and you are not seeing any growth come spring, chances are these critters have dug them up and eaten them in preparation for the coming winter.

Rats and mice find tulips a tasty food source, especially as their natural food supplies start to decline in autumn. Be prepared, or these hungry creatures will overrun your garden before you can enjoy the fruits of your labor! 

5. Chipmunks

Chipmunks might seem adorable, but these marauding creatures can actually cause great damage to your flower beds! They are also known as excellent diggers and will probably find your tasty tulip bulbs irresistible. 

Just like squirrels, chipmunks also make preparations for the winter, so your vulnerable tulip garden can be an easy source of ready meals if you do not take appropriate action.

6. Voles

Tulips are just too tasty for voles to pass up! These voracious eaters are one of the many culprits behind damaged flower beds. They spend most of their lives under the soil, waiting for an opportunity to harvest your juicy flower bulbs. So, if you notice your garden has been dug up overnight, it is quite possibly the work of voles.

At first, you might confuse voles with mice, but these creatures are actually different. Voles are slightly larger than mice; their tails are shorter, too. Voles are herbivorous, and they find most plant bulbs palatable, including tulips. 

Thankfully, there are a few bulbs that these pests tend to avoid. You can use these as an effective deterrent (which we will discuss in the next section) to protect your precious tulip flowers!

How do you keep animals from eating tulips?

Now that you know which animal is responsible for the damage in your garden, it is time to take action! There are a few things you can do to keep unwanted visitors from digging up and munching on your tulips, as summarized below:

1. Plant your tulip bulbs with gravel

Pea gravel can be a hassle to dig through for chipmunks and squirrels. You can use this to your advantage to keep the critters off your flowers. 

First, dig a hole for your tulip bulb. Place the bulb and fill the hole with about half an inch of pea gravel. Then cover the remaining part of the hole with mulch and dirt. Surrounding your bulbs with gravel will not only deter these pests but will also help improve the soil’s drainage, thus protecting your tulips from rotting.

2. Use companion plants

Not all plants and flowers are palatable to our common garden invaders. To keep your tulips safe, you can use companion plants to discourage certain animals like deer, squirrels, chipmunks, rabbits, and rats from consuming your hard-won flowers.

Your best defense against burrowing rodents and above-ground foragers is to surround your tulips with fragrant flowers that they strongly dislike, or plants that might be toxic to them. These include: 

• Daffodils
• Bearded irises
• Poppies
• Ornamental onions
• Snowflakes
• Foxgloves

3. Install fences, bulb baskets, and cages

Using fences, bulb baskets, or cages is your ultimate form of defense against unwanted garden visitors. Remember that fences must be at least three feet high and buried about ten inches deep in the ground. 

Bulb baskets or cages are excellent deterrents, too. You can purchase a bulb basket from Amazon and grow your tulips through the openings. Although bulb baskets might require extra effort to plant and bury, they are surely the most effective tool to protect your bulbs from burrowing rodents.

4. Plant your tulips closer to your door

Planting your tulips near your entrance door is an excellent way to add beauty to your home. It can discourage animals from getting too close to your tulips, too, since this is where people usually pass by.

5. Sprinkle red pepper flakes

The strong scent and taste of cayenne pepper or pepper flakes should be enough to discourage hungry foragers from feasting on your tulips. Simply sprinkle an adequate amount of pepper flakes around your garden to keep pests off your plants.

6. Install a motion-activated light

Motion-activated lights are quite effective, not only at spooking potential burglars, but also animals like deer. These simple deterrents should help keep your home and garden safe at night since both humans and animals are likely to be scared by the sudden illumination.

Conclusion

Several animals may be responsible for the frustrating damage to your tulip garden. From rabbits, chipmunks, and deer, to underground foragers like voles, your precious tulips can be an easy snack for these invaders. So plan ahead and make sure to implement protective measures before planting your tulips. With the right steps, you should be able to keep these animals off your plants in the most humane way.

Image: istockphoto.com / Iva Vagnerova

If you are looking for a fun and unique addition to your indoor landscape, you will absolutely love the frizzle sizzle! With its thick, spiraled leaves, this bulb succulent will be the focal point of your living space.

One benefit of owning a frizzle sizzle is that it is super easy to care for – no mess, no fuss! Give this plant the basic care it needs, and it will reward you with bright green curls and beautiful blooms.

But, if your frizzle sizzle suddenly looks dry and unhealthy, it might be cause for serious concern! Why is your frizzle sizzle dying? Let us discuss the possible reasons below.   

Frizzle sizzle plant – Care requirements

Frizzle sizzles have a unique beauty that brings joy to any indoor space. They are fun to look at, thanks to their green, spiraling foliage that looks like little curls. Many plant enthusiasts love growing these spiral-tipped plants, not only for their distinctive leaves but also for their simple care requirements.

Also known as Albuca spiralis or corkscrew albuca, the frizzle sizzle is a bulb succulent native to the Western and Northern Cape provinces of South Africa. What makes these plants highly sought-after by gardening aficionados is their long, narrow, corkscrewed leaves. They also have glandular hairs that feel sticky to the touch. Under the right growing conditions, the frizzle sizzle plant can reach eight inches tall and grow flower stalks of 12 to 24 inches.

You might be surprised to know that caring for a frizzle sizzle plant does not require very much expertise! In fact, this succulent is one of the many houseplants you can start growing if you are new to gardening. 

Keep in mind, though, that this succulent can be a bit fussy when it comes to watering and drainage requirements. To give it the best care possible, make sure to do a bit of research about its basic needs. If you get everything right, you should be rewarded with dangling, vanilla-scented flowers come springtime.  

With the proper care, a frizzle sizzle only needs about 12 weeks to grow fully. Most of its care requirements are similar to those of other common houseplants, so if you are an experienced grower, then caring for a frizzle sizzle should not be very challenging for you. Some of its needs include:

• Proper watering once every two or three weeks from summer to fall, and once a week during the winter months. 
• Well-aerated soil with enough water retention to keep the plant hydrated.
• A bit of balanced and diluted succulent fertilizer to give it a boost during the growing season.
• A perfect spot with access to filtered sunlight and away from harsh temperatures.

Is my frizzle sizzle dying?

First and foremost, is your frizzle sizzle really dying? Seeing a houseplant drying up and shedding a few leaves can send us all into panic mode, but this panic is not always necessary. Your frizzle sizzle might simply be dormant, which is quite normal for almost any plant. Aside from its tips turning brown, you might also notice slower growth at this time.

Now, you might expect that the frizzle sizzle would be dormant during the winter, but it is not! When this succulent reaches full maturity, it begins to produce flowers during the spring and summer months. At this stage, it stops producing new leaves and focuses all its energy on its blooms – and this is when the frizzle sizzle enters its dormancy period.

Dormancy is also a unique way for the plant to survive the hot climate in its native environment, and is the reason your frizzle sizzle actually requires less – not more – water during the summer season. At this time, the plant might look like it is dying, but do not worry – it is just taking a rest! As long as its bulbs are healthy, it should start growing again when the weather starts to cool down.   

However, if your frizzle sizzle looks unhealthy overall, it may be time to investigate some other possible culprits. 

Frizzle sizzle dying – common causes

Despite it being a low-maintenance plant, growing and caring for a frizzle sizzle is not an entirely problem-free journey. Every now and then, you might notice the plant looking droopy or sad, and its leaves turning yellow or brown. If you think your frizzle sizzle is not growing well, it may be affected by one or a combination of the following:

1. Improper watering

Both underwatering and overwatering can have detrimental effects on your plant. Without adequate water, the frizzle sizzle will begin to develop brown or yellow leaves, dried-out stalks, and a drooping appearance. It will also lose its overall vigor and beauty.

How often should you water your frizzle sizzle?

As mentioned before, frizzle sizzles should only be watered once every two or three weeks during their dormancy period. This means you should give them less water in the spring and summer. Increase your watering to once a week when the winter months arrive, since this is the season when your corkscrew albuca is actively growing.

2. Poor soil

So, you are confident that your plant is receiving the right amount of water, but it still looks sad and unhealthy. Then investigate the condition of the soil.

Soil quality can make or break those little green curls! Ideally, the soil must be moist enough but never too saturated for your frizzle sizzle. We recommend using a potting medium formulated for cacti and succulents, as this provides good aeration while still keeping your plant hydrated.

You can also make your own potting mix by following this recipe:

• One part perlite
• One part coarse sand
• Two parts potting soil

3. Repotting

Repotting can be very stressful for your plants, especially when not done correctly. The resulting condition is known as transplant shock. When plants go through this period, they might wilt, drop a few leaves, and develop yellow or brown leaves. All of these symptoms are normal under these circumstances, and the best thing you can do at this time is to give your plant the best care as it recovers.

Remember that your frizzle sizzle will need to be repotted when it starts to outgrow its container. On average, that means repotting it every two to three years. To reduce transplant stress, make sure that you cause minimal damage to the roots during the process.

It is also worth mentioning that repotting is the ideal time to check the health of the roots and look for signs of root rot. If you notice any dark and mushy roots, prune them off with a clean pair of scissors. Carefully rinse the remaining healthy roots before planting your frizzle sizzle in its new pot.

4. Too much fertilizer

Over-fertilizing is another common mistake that is often overlooked by novice gardeners. Remember that more fertilizer does not always mean better growth! If you apply fertilizer in excessive amounts, the plant will not be able to use it all, and the extra dosage will accumulate as salts in the soil and cause root burn.

To give your frizzle sizzle that extra boost, use a liquid fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Feed your plant during the cold months, and avoid using any fertilizer during the summer when it is dormant.

5. Light

A lack of light could be another reason your frizzle sizzle looks dry and droopy. This aspect can be very challenging for growers living in tight apartments where indoor light is limited.

Remember that frizzle sizzles thrive in areas with filtered sunlight. Thus, for the best growth, the ideal spot for your plant should be near a south-facing window. That said, it can also do well in other areas of your home where it can enjoy full, bright sunlight. 

If you cannot find the perfect spot for your plant, you can use LED grow lights instead. These affordable alternatives help your plant get enough light in any season. Grow lights can also be the perfect solution during the winter months when daylight hours are fewer.

Should I let my frizzle sizzle flower?

Whether to allow your frizzle sizzle to produce flowers is a personal preference. If you want to preserve its corkscrew foliage for the entire season, then you might need to cut off the blooms as they grow. If, on the other hand, you do not mind the plant’s natural growth cycle, then just allow it to bloom and wait for the new curls to grow in the next growing season. 

Conclusion

While it can be worrisome to see the beautiful foliage of your frizzle sizzle turning brown, this is often simply due to dormancy. This is a normal part of the growth cycle for most plants, and the best thing you can do is wait for your plant’s green curls to recover in the next growing season. 

However, if dormancy is not the cause of your plant’s unhealthy appearance, you might need to review your plant care routine to ensure that your frizzle sizzle is receiving adequate water, sunlight, and nutrition. Once you have diagnosed the issue, you should be able to return your Albuca spiralis to full health in no time! 

Image: istockphoto.com / Queserasera99

Planting an avocado tree in your garden comes with a lot of benefits!

Trees, in general, add a great aesthetic appeal to your landscape. They help clean the air, too, and improve the environment by providing cool shade during the summer months and attracting beneficial birds and wildlife. 

On top of all these perks, avocado trees can provide you with fresh and delicious fruits that you can enjoy as guacamole or avocado toast. Although it might take years before they actually start producing fruits, avocado trees are generally easy to grow and care for. They thrive on what is naturally available in the environment – sunlight, water, and nutrient-rich soil.

However, this does not mean that avocado trees are completely trouble-free! From time to time, for example, you might see the leaves drooping on your avocado tree. Improper watering is the leading cause of plant problems, but other factors such as lack of light, fungal diseases, and poor soil conditions might also play a role. Let us take a closer look below! 

Avocado tree leaves drooping – common causes

Drooping leaves is usually a sign of an unhealthy plant, and the reason could be any of the following:

1. Overwatering

Overwatering is a common mistake, and a lot of gardeners are probably guilty of this practice at some point. If you are growing an avocado tree as a houseplant, you need to be careful about how much water you give it. 

As you might already know, water is essential for the survival of all plants. It has a role in several important functions, such as the transport of nutrients from the roots to the leaves, the transpiration process that cools down the leaf surface during hot weather, and supporting the process of photosynthesis. 

Hence, adequate watering is crucial to growing a healthy avocado tree. Unfortunately, a lack of knowledge and experience among some growers can lead to improper watering habits. 

So, how do you know if your avocado tree is overwatered? Here are some of the tell-tale signs:

• Drooping and wilting leaves
• Production of smaller, paler green leaves
• Root rot 
• Younger leaves dropping prematurely
• Tree shoots beginning to die back

Aside from giving it too much water, there are also other possible reasons that your avocado tree may end up standing in overly saturated soil. First, you may have planted it in garden soil that does not drain well. Planting it in a container with no drainage holes will result in the same problem. 

Remember that avocados love nutrient-dense, well-draining soil, whether planted in the ground or in pots. Sandy soil is also fine, since it provides enough room for the larger roots to expand.

2. Underwatering

Underwatering can be as bad as overwatering! As mentioned previously, water plays several vital roles in a plant’s growth cycle. Hence, depriving your avocado tree of water for extended periods will slow its growth and metabolic processes until it can no longer support itself. 

Plant tissue is made up of roughly 80 to 90 percent water. This is why an underwatered avocado plant will shrink, wilt, and lose turgidity. The lack of water will also limit its ability to absorb soil nutrients. Over time, its leaves will start turning crispy and brown, particularly on the tips and edges. If you do not act quickly, your plant will eventually die from extreme dehydration.

Now, you might be wondering – how often should you water your avocado tree?

Avocado trees below three years of age should receive a thorough watering twice or three times per week during the normal growing season. While your tree is young, make sure to water it near the trunk to ensure that the roots are completely soaked. 

When your tree reaches full maturity, it should receive about two inches of water each week. Watering a fully-established tree once a week is enough in most cases, but this might vary depending on the season and local climate. Keep in mind that mature avocado trees should not be watered near the trunk, as this increases the risk of rot!

To ensure that your avocado’s roots remain moist and happy, make it a habit to check the condition of the soil every few days or so. You can test the top layer of the soil with your finger, or use a soil moisture meter to assess how dry (or wet) the soil is. From there, you should be able to make the right decision as to whether or not your tree needs more hydration.   

Another effective method to keep the soil moist is to add mulch, such as bark or wood chips. The mulch should be placed about a foot away from the trunk to avoid fungal growth.

3. Transplant shock

As with all plants, transplanting can be a stressful experience for your avocado tree. Transplant shock is mostly caused by root damage and a lack of acclimatization to the new environment. Other factors, such as a lack of water, sudden temperature changes, pruning after transplanting, and a lack of sunlight could also make matters worse.

Transplant shock is a normal reaction for most plants, and does not mean your plant is dying. If your avocado tree starts to look sad after you have transplanted it, the best thing you can do is to give it the best possible care and enough time to recover.

We also recommend following these tips to help reduce the negative effects of transplanting:

• Dig up the tree’s root ball carefully to avoid damaging the roots. Make sure not to leave the roots exposed for too long (either indoors or outdoors), especially to direct sunlight. You should replant your avocado tree on the same day.
• Do not shake the soil from the roots or soak them in the water. This will help retain the beneficial fungi on the roots as you transplant the tree to its new location.
• If the new location gets more light than the plant’s previous spot, you might need to cover it with a shade net temporarily. At this time, avoid exposing it to direct sunlight (if the plant is not used to it). Let your avocado grow under the shade for about one to two months, or until it starts doing well. For potted indoor avocados, make sure to place them near windows facing north to avoid direct sunlight.
• Water your plant once or twice a week to keep the soil from drying out. Increase your watering a little bit during the dry season.
• If you are planting the avocado tree in the ground, it is best to remove any fruits or flowers. The flowering and fruiting stage can demand a lot of nutrients and energy from the tree, and removing them will help it recover faster after the transplant. 
• Pruning the leaves and branches can add stress to your newly-transplanted avocado. So, put down your pruning shears and avoid removing anything from the plant – give it enough time to heal.
• Avoid feeding your plant with nitrogen-rich fertilizer. If you must feed it, we suggest using a fertilizer rich in phosphorus to help establish the root system.

4. Lack of sunlight

Avocado trees prefer full to partial sunlight to grow well, and keeping them in areas with low levels of light will limit their growth potential. 

Aside from drooping, other signs of a light-deprived avocado tree include yellowing and dropping of the leaves. Additionally, since plants need sufficient sunlight to conduct photosynthesis, the lack of light can weaken your plant and cause nutrient deficiencies. 

To revive your avocado tree, simply move it to an area that has access to partial or direct sunlight – preferably about six hours per day. If you decide to grow your avocado indoors, make sure it is placed near a sunny window. Using grow lights for indoor plants can be beneficial, too, especially if you do not have enough natural light inside your home.

5. Oak root fungus

Fungal diseases, particularly the oak root fungus, can cause the leaves on your avocado tree to droop and wilt. Unfortunately, avocado trees with oak root fungus can be very difficult to revive. In most cases, the infected tree will die prematurely from the disease.

Oak root fungus is caused by Armillaria mellea, a soil-borne pathogen that infects not just avocados, but almost any crop or ornamental plant. Early detection of the disease can be a bit challenging, since the symptoms do not appear until the fungus has become well-established in the roots. 

Oak root rot can cause your avocado tree to collapse and die. Your best weapon against this fungal disease is to prevent it in the first place. Soil fumigation prior to replanting often works well to eradicate soil-borne pests and pathogens. Also, make sure that the soil is allowed to dry out between waterings to discourage fungal growth.

How to fix drooping avocado tree leaves

Reviving your avocado tree is usually possible if you have caught the issue at an early stage. 

Several plant problems have similar symptoms, so it might be challenging to pinpoint the exact cause. Try to review your plant care routine as well – the problem might be due to your watering mistakes. Once you can pinpoint the cause of the issue, then finding the appropriate solution should be easier. 

Here are some additional tips to restore the health of your plant quickly:

• If overwatering is the culprit, refrain from watering your plant for about a week. Also make sure that the soil is not too dense or compact, as this can suffocate the roots.
• Avoid underwatering your plant. Younger avocado trees need more frequent watering until their roots are fully established. That said, be careful not to overdo it or you risk root rot! 
• Check for fungal infections, especially on the roots. Through early detection, you might still be able to save your avocado tree.
• Give your plant the best possible care after transplanting. That includes adequate water, well-draining soil, and proper lighting. Avoid exposing a newly transplanted avocado to direct sunlight. 
• Make sure that your avocado tree receives enough sunlight each day. As mentioned previously, avocado plants thrive in partial to full sunlight. 

Conclusion

If your avocado tree’s leaves are drooping, the first thing you need to do is to check your watering habits. Could your avocado tree be over- or underwatered? If not, then it might have to do with transplant shock, lack of sunlight, or worse – root rot. 

Unless the problem is a fungal disease, you should be able to correct the issue once you have determined the exact culprit. With a bit of care, your avocado tree should make a full recovery to its healthy state!

Image: istockphoto.com / Hasan Ashari

Japanese maple trees are loved by gardeners for their elegance and colorful foliage. If you have visited any of the world’s most beautiful gardens, chances are you have probably seen one or several of these trees.

If you want to grow this gorgeous tree in your backyard garden, there are some basic care requirements that you need to know in order to succeed. One such is adequate watering.

Unfortunately, a lot of newbie growers often make the mistake of overwatering their Japanese maples – and too much water is the cause of several common plant diseases that destroy the vigor and beauty of these plants.

With that in mind, it is essential to know the symptoms of an overwatered Japanese maple, so that you can correct your watering mistakes as soon as possible. This guide will teach you some of the tell-tale signs to look out for, so read on! 

Japanese maple watering requirements

The Japanese maple is a gorgeous and sturdy tree that does not require a lot of maintenance. However, like most other trees or plants, it needs careful monitoring of the soil to ensure that it is getting the right amount of water. The right balance of moisture is important to prevent the roots from drying out too quickly or – on the other hand – developing root rot.

If you are planting a Japanese maple for the first time, know that the young plant will require consistent watering until its roots are fully established. Therefore, the first two years of growth are crucial. But, once the tree has reached maturity, it should be able to absorb enough moisture from the ground unassisted.

Young Japanese maple trees will need about ten gallons of water per week. Remember that the water has to be distributed evenly so that the entire root system can be deeply soaked. It is best, therefore, to use a drip hose when watering young trees. 

So, how often should you be watering your Japanese maple? In general, Japanese maples will need watering about twice a week in normal weather conditions. During the dry season, you will need to increase this to as many as four times per week to keep the tree sufficiently hydrated. During the cold season, on the other hand, you may need to reduce the watering frequency to prevent fungal diseases.

It is also very important to determine whether the soil is moist or dry before watering your Japanese maple. Since the soil’s moisture levels are largely influenced by the weather and the current season, checking the topsoil will help you know when your plant needs watering. Most growers use the finger test to determine the dryness of the top layer of soil, but we can also recommend using a soil moisture meter for accuracy and convenience.

Japanese maple – overwatering symptoms to look out for

One of the most common questions asked by novice growers is how to tell if their Japanese maple is overwatered. Too much watering is the leading cause of death among houseplants and trees. Thus, detecting the issue at the earliest stage is key to saving your Japanese maple from an untimely demise.

Here are some of the tell-tale signs of overwatering you need to watch out for:

1. Leaves turning brown or yellow

The leaves on a healthy Japanese maple tree should be shades of purple, burgundy, or red. If the leaves have unusual discolorations, such as browning or yellowing, it might be time to review your watering routine.

Roots need oxygen as well as water to stay alive. Too much water can saturate the pores in the soil, which inhibits airflow and effectively drowns the roots. And, without healthy roots, the health of the entire plant will be compromised. Eventually, your Japanese maple will lose its vigor and its leaves will begin to wilt and turn brown.

2. Root rot 

Root rot is one of the ugliest consequences of leaving a Japanese maple to drown in waterlogged soil. Unfortunately, the early signs might not be obvious, since the roots are hidden deep in the soil. The only clues your plants would show are browning or yellowing leaves, a droopy and wilting appearance, and looking sick overall. An inexperienced grower’s immediate reaction may be to give the tree more water, which would only make matters worse!

How to check for root rot:

If your Japanese maple looks unhealthy, try to inspect the roots. Remember that healthy roots should look white, firm, and numerous. If they appear black and mushy with a swamp-like odor, then your plant is likely struggling with root rot.

Root rot is a serious issue. It is mainly caused by various types of fungal spores, such as Fusarium, Clitocybe, Phytophthora, and others. Unfortunately, it is often difficult to treat fungal infections, especially if the root damage is extensive. In most cases, infected plants are best discarded to prevent any spread of the disease.

3. Verticillium wilt

Overwatering can also attract soil-borne fungi and cause verticillium wilt in Japanese maple trees. The affected plant will eventually suffer from a variety of symptoms, such as:

• Stunted growth
• Wilting
• Pale-colored leaves
• Dieback of the roots or branches

Unfortunately, it can be challenging to diagnose verticillium wilt just by looking at the plant. You will need to take samples from the infected plant and have them tested at a diagnostic laboratory to confirm this disease.

Another sad fact is that there is no available treatment for verticillium wilt in Japanese maple trees. Prevention is therefore better than cure, and providing your plant with proper care will help maintain its vigor and strengthen its immunity against diseases.

Correct sanitation practices also go a long way in preventing the disease in the first place. Avoid using potentially contaminated soil, containers, pruning shears, and other tools on healthy plants. You should also protect the tree’s trunk from injuries, as these become easy entry points for soil-borne pathogens.

Lastly, it is recommended to choose cultivars that are resistant to local pathogens present at your particular growing site. You can also practice soil solarization methods, such as breaking up the soil and heating its surface with the help of sunlight and clear polyethylene tarpaulin to eradicate any soil-borne pathogens. This effort will save you the trouble and heartache of replacing a dying Japanese maple.

How to revive an overwatered Japanese maple

Early detection is key to saving an overwatered Japanese maple. As a responsible grower, you should make it a habit to monitor the condition of your plants regularly in order to catch the early signs of problems. This way, if you notice your Japanese maple showing signs of overwatering, you might still be able to revive it.

Follow the tips below and your Japanese maple should bounce back to health within a few days or weeks:

• Keep your plant happy by providing it with the best possible care. Your best defense against root rot, pests, and other plant diseases is having a robust and healthy Japanese maple tree. Some of the requirements to maintain your plant’s vigor include partial sunlight, proper watering, and adequate fertilizer.
• Japanese maples love well-draining, slightly acidic soil. When planting your tree, make sure to provide it with well-aerated and nutrient-rich soil for faster and healthier growth.
• Add compost to the soil to improve drainage. This will also allow you to check for early signs of root rot.
• Make it a habit to check the soil before watering. As mentioned earlier, Japanese maples become more susceptible to fungal diseases and root rot if left standing in waterlogged soil for too long. Water your plant only when the topsoil looks bone-dry.
• Repotting an overwatered Japanese maple in a new container might save it from death. Transfer the plant to a well-draining pot with fresh, well-draining soil. Do not attempt to reuse the old soil, as it is likely infected with fungal spores. If you need to reuse the old pot, make sure it is cleaned and disinfected well.
• Lastly, know that it may not be possible to save a Japanese maple with severe root rot. If most of its roots have turned dark and mushy, you should rather discard the plant to prevent the disease from spreading. The same is advised for other fungal diseases.  

Other care tips for growing a Japanese maple

Though the Japanese maple is a low-maintenance and hardy tree, it still requires some loving care if you want to enjoy its beautiful foliage for years to come. Keep your Japanese maple happy and thriving by following these care tips:

• Protect the foliage by shielding the tree against strong winds. Otherwise, the leaves will easily dry out and lose their beauty.
• Spring frost can quickly damage the leaves of your Japanese maple tree. If you live in an area with cold winters, make sure to cover your trees, especially the newly planted ones, to protect them from frost.
• Japanese maples are sensitive to extreme weather conditions. To achieve faster and healthier growth, avoid planting them during the harsh summer or winter seasons. Early spring is the best time to plant a Japanese maple.
• Depending on your preference, your Japanese maple can be planted in a container or directly in the ground. Just make sure that it is protected from the harsh heat of the sun. Opt for a place where it can enjoy dappled sunlight, and it should thrive.

Conclusion

Caring for a Japanese maple tree might sound intimidating because of its size, uniqueness, and beauty. But, in reality, it is not so difficult. To maintain its charming foliage, you only need to provide the tree with a few basic care requirements. These include adequate watering and healthy, well-draining soil. Avoid overwatering your Japanese maple at all costs, in order to protect it from unnecessary diseases and root rot!

Image: istockphoto.com / plej92

Every gardener knows that healthy azalea leaves are supposed to be green – but what if they turn some unsightly color instead? 

Azalea leaves turning brown can indicate a serious issue. This guide will detail the most common problems associated with browning and dying azalea leaves, as well as what you can do to save your plant.

Why does my azalea look burnt?

Azalea leaves can turn brown for numerous reasons. Overwatering is the leading cause of a browning or dying azalea, but other factors like pest infestation, drought stress, fertilizer burn, and plant diseases may also play a role.

In most cases, azaleas can bounce back to health if the underlying problem is diagnosed and treated at an early stage. However, it might be too late to save your plant if the damage has become extensive.

Azalea leaves turning brown – common reasons

1. Overwatered azalea

Azaleas can die from overwatering. As any grower can attest, houseplants like azaleas do not need constant watering to thrive. In fact, most plants prefer to be left until the soil becomes dry before they are watered again. 

Although plant roots are buried deep in the soil, they also need oxygen to survive. Plants breathe the air held in tiny pockets in the soil, known as soil pores. Compacted or waterlogged soil will thus limit the amount of oxygen available for the roots. 

Additionally, too much water in the soil can attract fungal pathogens and cause root rot. Instead of having firm white roots, the affected azalea will start to develop brown and mushy roots that emit a strong, unpleasant odor. With compromised roots, the plant will start to struggle with nutrient-uptake issues. 

If your azalea’s leaves turn brown and appear droopy, it might be worth investigating the roots for a more accurate diagnosis. 

What to do if your azalea is overwatered:

• Check whether the plant still has some healthy, white roots. If so, you can revive your azalea by repotting it in fresh, healthy soil. However, if the entire root system is damaged, there is nothing you can do to save it. It is best to discard both the affected azalea and its potting soil and start over with a new plant.
• Do not water your plant until the top layer of soil becomes dry. Always stay up to date on the weather conditions, too, since your plant’s watering needs will vary according to the climate and the season.
• Use a well-draining pot and soil. Avoid using compacted or dense soil, as this can retain too much moisture for longer periods.

2. Underwatered azalea

Similar to overwatering, an underwatered azalea will also display brown leaves. 

Water is an essential requirement for all plants to grow. They need water to carry out important metabolic processes like photosynthesis, and to transport nutrients from the soil into the stems and leaves. 

If your azalea has been neglected for several consecutive days, it will start to struggle with dehydration and nutrient absorption. The result is a sad-looking plant with dry and brittle leaves. You might also notice the leaves dropping, wilting, and curling due to the lack of water.

If you suspect your azalea is underwatered, here is what you can do to revive it:

• Soak the plant in a sink or tub filled with water for 30 minutes. Then take the pot from the tub and let it sit for a couple of minutes until all of the excess water has drained.
• Trim any brown or dead leaves you see. Once your plant has recovered, it should start growing fresh green leaves again.
• You might need to increase your watering frequency if the weather is very hot. The summer season tends to dry the soil easily, so make sure to check your plants regularly at this time of year. Remember that you cannot water your azalea according to a fixed schedule – its watering needs will vary depending on the weather conditions.
• Always make it a habit to check the soil so that you can give your plant the right amount of water at the right time. Most growers recommend using the finger test. To do this, you just need to poke the topsoil with your finger to assess whether it is dry to the touch. A quick glance at the soil should also help you tell whether it is moist or dry. Remember that moist soil tends to be a darker color than bone-dry soil. 
• Add mulch to the soil to prevent it from drying too quickly, especially during the hotter seasons.

3. Leaf spot disease

Leaf spots on azalea leaves can appear as reddish-brown lesions with a necrotic center. Over time, these irregularly-shaped spots will merge together into larger spots, or blotches. Although fungal spores are often the culprit, leaf spots can also be due to injuries caused by insects, herbicide application, and environmental toxicity.

In general, leaf spot diseases are unlikely to be life-threatening to your azaleas. However, long-term neglect can be detrimental to their health, leading to an untimely demise. 

To revive your plant, follow the tips below:

• Isolate the infected plant to prevent the disease from spreading throughout your garden.
• Using a clean pair of pruning shears, cut off the affected leaves and discard them right away. Do not use the leaves as compost for your garden.
• To keep your azaleas’ leaves dry, do not water the plants from above. And, most importantly, avoid misting the leaves. Some gardeners might swear by the benefits of misting, but this can actually encourage the growth of fungal spores. If you need to improve the humidity level indoors, use a humidifier instead.
• For fungal leaf spot, we highly recommend fungicides like Patch Pro for early-stage control of the disease. However, for severe cases, it might be best to discard the sick plant to prevent infecting your other plants. 

4. Lace bug infestation

Lace bugs are one of the many types of pest that can damage the leaves of your azaleas. They usually appear as white, silvery, or yellow spots on the surface of the leaves. These tiny pests can also be found hiding on the underside of the leaves. If you notice a black, sticky substance on the foliage, it is likely that these unwanted guests are helping themselves to the juices of your plants’ tissues.

As with any pest infestation, lace bugs compete for the plant’s nutrients by sucking the leaf juices, or sap. Eventually, their feeding activity will reduce your plant’s vigor and cause severe damage to the foliage. This is why you will notice browning lesions on certain sections of the leaves.  

Thankfully, there are simple and effective ways to get rid of these nuisances and return your azalea to full health. These include the following:

• Using insecticidal soaps – preferably organic – to kill the bugs and their eggs.
• Applying neem oil or horticultural oil on the leaves to get rid of lace bugs and prevent them from coming back.
• Spraying the affected plant with acephate to manage the lace bug population, especially if the infestation is severe.

5. Fertilizer burn

Fertilizer is one of the essential plant care requirements for growing azaleas, especially those that are grown in containers. Not only does it boost your plants’ growth, but also ensures that there is a constant stream of nutrients in the soil to keep your azaleas looking happy.

Sometimes, however, you may accidentally pamper your plants too much by applying an excessive amount of fertilizer. If you have done this at some point, you are not alone – novice gardeners can easily overestimate the nutritional needs of their plants, leading to over-fertilization. And no – adding too much fertilizer will not make your plants grow bigger or healthier! Instead, the excess will accumulate as salts in the soil and cause root burn.

Once the roots are damaged, we all probably have an idea of what happens next – root burn inhibits the roots from absorbing water from the soil. This is why the symptoms of over-fertilizing can be similar to those of underwatering, such as wilting and browning of the leaves, particularly on the tips and along the leaf margins. Another tell-tale sign of an over-fertilized azalea plant is the appearance of white crusts on the surface of the soil.  

6. Azalea dieback

Dieback is a disease common in azaleas, characterized by dying branches. Typically, the disease affects single or multiple stems of an otherwise-healthy azalea plant. The leaves also begin to die and turn brown while still attached to the stems or branches of the plant.

Branch dieback in azaleas is commonly caused by Phytophthora and Botryosphaeria. Unfortunately, there are no fungicides available to treat these diseases, but you can still use chemical treatments to prevent them from spreading to other plants.

Rhododendron borer is a plant pest that can also cause branch dieback in azaleas. This tiny insect is a type of clearwing moth, although it looks more similar to a wasp. It is about half an inch long, with a dark head and a pale yellow body. Although it primarily attacks rhododendrons, it can also cause severe damage to azaleas by chewing on the inner bark tunneling into the branches. 

Unfortunately, chemical sprays might not be very effective in eradicating these pests, since they hide inside the stems. You will need to prune and destroy the wilted branches. It is also recommended to apply permethrin to protect the trunks from the borer larvae. Thoroughly spray the stems three times at 10-to-14 days intervals. If you notice any borers coming out onto the leaves, you can also use horticultural oil or insecticidal soap to kill them.

7. Leaf scorch

Similar to drought stress, leaf scorch can also cause your azaleas to turn brown due to various unfavorable conditions. For example, if the plant is exposed to too much sunlight, the leaf tissue will begin to develop brown lesions. In this case, you only need to move your plant to a shady area to avoid the damaging rays of the sun.

You will also notice brown discoloration on the tips and margins of the leaves if your plants are exposed to freezing temperatures. Although curled-up leaves will likely bounce back once the spring season arrives, any damaged or browned stems and leaves may never recover. You should cut off these damaged parts so that the plant can focus its resources on new growth.

Conclusion

Azalea leaves that have turned brown are generally a sign that something is not right! You need to figure out the underlying issue as quickly as possible if you want to save your plant. In this guide, we have broken down each possible cause, as well as the appropriate solution. Once you have cleared up the issue, remember to establish preventative measures and proper care routines to keep your azaleas green and healthy!

Image: istockphoto.com / EMFA16

The Philippines is a tropical country that is home to about two-thirds of the world’s biodiversity. It is ranked fifth in the world for housing five percent of all the earth’s plant species. 

This megadiverse country is made up of several isolated islands with an ideal tropical climate. Thus, it is not really surprising that the Philippines is well-recognized for having such a high number of unique flora and fauna species.  

So, what are some of the rare plants that call the Philippines home? In this article, we have listed eight of the rarest plants that can only be found in this country. Read on to discover what these species are and what makes them exotic and unusual!

1. Rafflesia consueloae 

Rafflesia consueloae is a parasitic flowering plant that can only be found on Luzon Island in the Philippines – specifically in Pantabangan Watershed, Pampanga. 

Rafflesia flowers are known to be the largest in the world. The largest Rafflesia species is Rafflesia arnoldii, which measures about 40 inches in diameter. Rafflesia consueloae, on the other hand, measures about four inches across and is considered the smallest among these largest flowers. 

Like all the members of the Rafflesiaceae family, Rafflesia consueloae is entirely dependent on its host plant since it does not have its own roots or leaves. The only part of this plant you will ever see are its five petals. 

Once the flower fully blooms, it releases a disgusting odor that smells like rotting flesh. Now, you might think this repulsive stench is used to repel dangerous predators or bugs – but it is not! The offensive smell has an important role in the plant’s reproduction process, and that is to attract pollinators like flies, which actually like the stench. Once these insects carry the pollen to another plant, the Rafflesia species has successfully reproduced. 

2. Philippine teak

Also known as Tectona philippinensis, Philippine teak is a species of small forest tree endemic to the Philippines. Its natural habitat, more specifically, is Ilin Island, Mindoro, and the lowland forests and cliffs of San Juan and Lobo, in Batangas province. 

This rare Philippine tree can grow up to 80 feet high and 20 inches in diameter. It produces pale green leaves that measure about five inches long and two inches wide. Philippine teak also produces bright purple blooms, as well as small fruits enclosed in a large calyx with a thin exocarp and a bony endocarp. 

What makes the Philippine teak well-known is its highly valuable timber. The light-yellow wood is very durable and dense, making it an excellent material for furniture and heavy-duty structures such as bridges, beams, and posts. Unfortunately, this popular tree is decreasing in population due to its direct exploitation, as well as agricultural land use and urban expansion.

3. Kabantigi

Kabantigi, also called Pemphis acidula, is a small, heavily branched tree or shrub native to the Philippines. Some kabantigi trees grow as high as 33 feet, while there are also some that are dwarf creepers. Because of the latter’s petite height, they are commonly grown as bonsai trees in Asia. These trees have small, thick, silvery leaves and their branches are adorned with clusters of flowers in the springtime.

Kabantigi trees are not found everywhere; they mostly grow along rocky coastal areas or near the edges of mangroves. These trees are quite heavy and tough – they can withstand even the harshest weather conditions. They have rugged, low-lying trunks to survive the strong winds and big waves of the Philippines typhoon season. But, once the summer months arrive, they begin to grow in an upright direction again.

Aside from being popular as a bonsai tree, the Kabantigi is also popular among woodcarvers due to its heavy weight and natural twisted shape. It is also harvested by the locals for medicine and food.

Unfortunately, Pemphis acidula is included in the list of threatened species as its population continues to decline due to habitat loss and continuous collection for the bonsai trade.

4. Balakat  

Ziziphus talanai, also known as balakat, talanai, or aligamen, is a species of tree native to the islands of Luzon and Visayas in the Philippines – specifically in the Philippinean Limestone Forest ecoregion.

These large trees belong to the Rhamnaceae family and can reach up to 100 feet high and 40 inches in diameter. In the province of Antique, this tree is widely used as medicine to treat urinary tract infections and ringworm, due to its antimicrobial properties.

5. Jade vine

Another Philippine plant, well known for its spectacular blooms, is the jade vine, or Strongylodon macrobotrys. Other names assigned to this perennial woody vine are emerald creeper, emerald vine, and tayabak.

The jade vine is a tropical climber whose twisting stems are embellished with dangling clusters of claw-shaped flowers. While the vine can reach up to 70 feet long, its beautiful, greenish-blue blooms can measure up to five inches. The flowers are usually in full bloom from early spring to summer.

Jade vines grow best in tropical rainforests where the soil is moist, alkaline, and nutrient-dense. Hence, these plants will not thrive in areas with cold temperatures or drought. So, if you are interested in growing one of these beautiful and rare species, then you should be living in an area classified as USDA plant hardiness zone 10 or 11.

6. Kris plant

Alocasia sanderiana, or the kris plant, is another unique plant native to the Philippines – in this case, to the region of Northern Mindanao. This tropical perennial is a member of the Araceae family. It typically grows up to two feet in height and produces large leaves of about 12 inches long and six inches wide.

What is impressive about the kris plant is its alien-looking foliage. The dark green leaves resemble a v-shape, or an arrowhead, with white or yellowish veins protruding on the surface. They also have wavy edges that give them an exotic look.

Aside from its stunningly unique foliage, the kris plant can also produce a few flowers, albeit occasionally, during the hot summer months in the Philippines.

7. Cebu cinnamon tree 

The Cebu cinnamon tree, or Cinnamomum cebuense, is a medium-sized tree that is endemic only to the Philippine island of Cebu. However, some trees have been found growing on the neighboring islands of Siquijor and Camotes. Locally, this species of plant is called kaningag.

Cinnamon species are valued mostly for culinary and medicinal purposes, thanks to their aromatic leaves and bark. The pharmaceutical industry collects the leaves of certain Cinnamon species to produce camphor and essential oils. The locals chew or boil the bark of the Cebu cinnamon tree to treat gastrointestinal discomfort, and some people use its leaves as an aromatic spice for cooking.

In total, the Philippines is home to eighteen Cinnamomum species. The country’s three different seasons, namely, the dry season, rainy season, and cold season, are the most important factors that allow these plants to thrive on the tropical islands. Unfortunately, however, the population of Cebu cinnamon trees on the island has been declining due to urbanization, over-exploitation, and deforestation for agricultural encroachment.

8. Nepenthes sibuyanensis and Nepenthes peltata

The tropical pitcher plants Nepenthes sibuyanensis and Nepenthes peltata are two more rare plant species endemic to the Philippines.

Nepenthes sibuyanensis is a carnivorous pitcher plant that can only be found on Mount Guiting-Guiting on Sibuyan Island. Nepenthes peltata, meanwhile, is a rare pitcher plant unique to the upper slopes of Mount Hamiguitan, Mindanao.

Pitcher plants are typically known for their globulous, pitcher-shaped flowers that are used to trap small insects or even animals like rats and lizards. They come with toothy peristomes and a waxy pitcher body that can be orange, cream, pink, or iridescent red. One species even grows lower pitchers hidden in the ground to more easily target its prey.   

Conclusion

The lush islands of the Philippines are home to some of the rarest plant species on earth. These include Rafflesia consueloae, Philippine teak, kabantigi, balakat, jade vine, kris plant, Cebu cinnamon tree, and the tropical pitcher plants Nepenthes sibuyanensis and Nepenthes peltata. Sadly, most of these plant species are on the red list due to deforestation and increasing urbanization.

Marigolds, or Calendula officinalis, are sunny annuals that are loved by many gardeners for their summery vibe. Aside from their beautiful blooms, they are also popular for medicinal purposes, culinary use, and companion planting.

If you grow marigolds, you will likely encounter a few issues with common garden pests. There are certain insects and animals that enjoy snacking on these plants’ leaves and flowers. The next morning, you might find your precious flowers completely destroyed. And, for novice growers, it can be frustrating to identify the culprit behind the damage.

If you are wondering what is stripping your marigolds, let us help you find out!

Marigolds – your garden’s companion plant

Marigolds add great decor to almost any landscape, thanks to their cheerful gold, copper, and brass-toned colors. They produce flowerheads that look very similar to carnations. The most common marigold varieties grown in gardens include African marigolds, French marigolds, English marigolds, and signet marigolds. These flowers bloom brightly throughout the growing seasons and are fairly easy to grow.

Aside from their beauty, seasoned gardeners know that marigolds have other benefits, too. In a nutshell, these flowers are excellent for pest control due to their strong fragrance. For this reason, marigolds are often planted near a variety of vegetables or perennials to protect these valuable plants from common garden pests. 

Different types of beneficial insects are also attracted to marigolds, which is another reason growers use them as companion plants in the garden. By attracting these beneficial insects, they promote pollination and improve the health of the garden.

Unfortunately, these pretty flowers are not immune to pest infestations. Snails, slugs, and caterpillars love marigold leaves and flowers. The months you have spent growing and caring for your precious flowers can be wasted overnight, thanks to these invaders. Aside from snails, slugs, and caterpillars, the flowers can also be killed by injury or foliar damage caused by other insects and animals, such as aphids, rats, birds, and rabbits. 

What is stripping my marigolds? Here are the common culprits

Your marigolds could end up a favorite meal for various pests. If you notice holes, bites marks, cuts, or other visible leaf damages, it could be caused by one of the following:

1. Snails and slugs

Snails and slugs are said to be the most common enemies of marigolds. If you notice slimy tracks on the leaves and around your plants, then these pests are most likely the culprit behind the ruin of your garden. 

Snails and slugs will feast on anything leafy, including your marigolds. They love hiding on the lower leaves of your garden plants during the day, coming out at night to satisfy their appetite. This leads to a lot of frustration for many gardeners who can never seem to catch them in action. 

Since these slimy little creatures love eating leaves, some gardeners actually use marigolds to entice them away from other valuable crops in the garden. marigolds can be planted around your important crops and vegetables so that the snails and slugs do not reach the plants you want to protect. 

Keeping your garden clean and free from piles of leaves and other potential hiding places will also discourage pests from taking over your plants.  

2. Beetles

Beetles, such as the common Japanese beetle, find marigolds a tasty delicacy. These pests like to tuck themselves at the base of the flower while taking their nourishment from the plant. You can often see them heading towards your marigolds in the early evening.

Just like the other pests, beetles can be problematic in the garden as they will consume not just your marigolds, but anything green and leafy they can find. They enjoy feeding on both leaves and stems, leaving a lot of damage that can eventually kill your plants. 

Beetles are also carriers of disease-causing bacteria that can spread through your entire garden. If you do not intervene early, these bugs will soon be laying eggs and causing a larger infestation in your garden. 

3. Rabbits

Yes, even these cute little mammals can be a threat to your garden. Rabbits are voracious eaters and will have no mercy for your garden plants. These long-eared pests have a great appetite for almost any kind of fresh vegetation you plant, including crops, perennials, berries, and leafy greens.

The good news is that rabbits do not really like the strong fragrance of marigold flowers and will generally first go for other vegetables or fruits in the garden. That said, they will still tuck into the marigolds’ leaves, stems, and flowers if they are feeling hungry.

4. Rats

Rats are not huge fans of marigolds – these little creatures also hate the strong scent of the flowers. In fact, some gardeners use marigolds as a rate deterrent to protect other valuable plants in the garden.

But this does not mean that rats will not hurt your marigolds. During desperate times, they might still nibble on them and cause a lot of damage, especially if they do not have other options to eat. They usually attack at dawn and dusk and consume any tender greens or flowers they can find.

5. Caterpillars

Caterpillars feed on plants’ leaves until they are ready to develop into moths or butterflies. These wriggly little creatures can also assault your marigolds by chewing the leaves and creating irreversible damage to the foliage. If not controlled correctly, they can completely destroy or kill your plants – especially the younger ones.

While most caterpillars eat the leaves, others might cause more harm to the flowers. For example, marigold flowers, during their early stages of bloom, are vulnerable to damage caused by sunflower moth caterpillars. The larvae begin their journey on the plant’s florets. Later, they bore themselves into the flower’s head and feed on the plant tissue and seeds. Some might also drop to the ground and migrate to the underleaf litter.

Hence, it can be difficult to detect a sunflower moth caterpillar infestation at an early stage unless you cut open the flower head to check for larvae. You are unlikely to notice any holes in the flower petals. Instead, the caterpillars can cause your marigold flowers to turn brown which is often mistaken as the plant’s normal aging process.

How to get rid of marigold pests

Declaring war on your marigold-devouring pests may not be a piece of cake – you need to plan and strategize to prevent them from coming back. Depending on the severity of the damage, it might not be too late to fight back against these pests and save your beautiful marigolds. 

1. Pluck the caterpillars individually

The easiest and cheapest way to get rid of caterpillars is to pluck them manually from your plants. First, you need to prepare a bucket filled with soapy water. Next, pluck any caterpillars you see on the leaves and flowers and put them into the bucket. You can also clean the leaves with neem oil or homemade insecticide to remove any eggs.

2. Set up traps to get rid of slugs

A trap is one of the most humane ways to keep slugs off your garden. Although these pests can cause a lot of damage to your plants, they can be beneficial for decomposing organic material. So, the best route should always be the eco-friendly method unless you find yourself in a desperate situation. You can use rotting organic materials to lure the pests toward your snail trap. 

3. Use slug deterrents

There are many natural deterrents you can use to protect your marigolds from slugs and caterpillars. Most gardeners usually find a mixture of tea tree oil and citronella oil very effective. Other options include Greek catmint oil, lemon eucalyptus oil, cinnamon oil, lavender oil, thyme oil, and soybean oil. 

Although you can use the essential oils individually around your garden, we highly recommended using them in combination with other slug deterrents for the best results. Apply the mixture around the plants you want to protect once a week. Re-apply if it rains as rainwater will likely wash away the repellent.

4. Cover plants with mesh at night

Most garden pests only come out at night to devour your garden plants. Instead of watching your garden all night, you can cover your marigolds with mesh to fight off the pests – especially slugs and caterpillars. Choose a fiberglass mesh since it is more durable and non-toxic than the other materials available.

5. Use microbial insecticide

The perk of using a microbial insecticide is that it only kills caterpillars without hurting the other, beneficial insects. So, if you think caterpillars are behind the ruin of your marigolds, this may be the best treatment. We highly recommend Monterey B.t. since it is very effective against caterpillars but safe for common earthworms, bees, birds, and ladybugs.

Other pests that might devour your marigolds

So, you have done all the right things to protect your marigolds, but you still see signs of damage on the leaves and flowers. In this case, you might need to investigate further to determine some other possible culprits.

Other pests that might potentially strip the foliage off your marigolds are:

• Grasshoppers
• Squirrels
• Aphids
• Thrips
• Whiteflies
• Earwigs
• Spider mites
• Leafminers
• Birds that target the slugs and caterpillars on the leaves
• Lizards that feed on the insects found on marigold leaves and stems

Conclusion

Marigolds are a favorite snack for snails, slugs, and caterpillars. If you notice holes, bite marks, or leaf injuries on your marigold plants, these pests are likely the culprits. 

Other insects and small animals might also damage your plants. Traps and natural deterrents are often sufficient to protect your marigolds from being devoured or damaged by these unwanted garden visitors. 

We do not recommend using harmful insecticides on your plants as these chemicals can kill natural garden predators and beneficial insects. You need them too, to keep your garden healthy and beautiful.

Image: istockphoto.com / badboydt7

Charcoal is many gardeners’ secret recipe for healthier soil and plants, but not all charcoal is ideal or safe for your plants. There are several types of charcoal, with varying uses, so it is very important to understand which type is beneficial for plants.

Horticultural charcoal and activated charcoal are often recommended for gardening, since both have great benefits compared with regular charcoal. But what is the difference between these two types of charcoal? And which one is better for your garden plants?

This article will provide you with some valuable information about horticultural charcoal versus activated charcoal, and how to choose the best one for your garden.

What is horticultural charcoal?

Horticultural charcoal, also known as inactive carbon, is a charcoal in its purest form. It is lightweight and made from hydrolyzed wood, an organic material produced through a process called pyrolysis. Its density ranges between 2.0 and 2.1 grams per cubic centimeter, or approximately 1.2 ounces per cubic inch.

Growers often use horticultural charcoal to enhance soil quality and boost plant growth. Due to its moderately porous and low-density properties, it makes an excellent additive to enhance soil aeration. Horticultural charcoal can help sweeten the soil, too, by balancing its pH levels, making it an ideal and healthy medium for alkaline-loving plants and terrariums.

Another important property of horticultural charcoal is its ability to eliminate odors in terrariums and ward off certain toxins and fungal pathogens. It can bind to microorganisms, too – just like activated charcoal, albeit to a lesser capacity since it is not as porous as activated charcoal. Since it has a good drainage layer, this charcoal can provide adequate pore space for beneficial microbes to thrive.

What is activated charcoal?

Activated charcoal, or activated carbon, is created by burning carbon-rich organic materials like coconut shells, bamboo, hardwood, and coal. The process involves the extraction of methane, hydrogen, and tar, resulting in a lightweight, black carbon substance. It is then mixed into a chemical solution or steamed at high temperatures until all the non-carbon elements are removed. The result is pure carbon in its most porous form, that can bind with many elements.

Activated charcoal works like a sponge – it can absorb drugs and undigested toxins. This is the reason it is used as a medication to remove poisonous substances or overdosed drugs in the human body. It has also been proven effective in skin care, teeth whitening, and treatment of diarrhea.

When it comes to gardening, activated charcoal can also be beneficial. Gardeners mainly use it to remove certain chemicals that might be harmful to plants. It can absorb substances up to 33 percent of its own weight, and is very effective at eliminating offensive odors from compost. The only downside of using activated charcoal is that it also binds with beneficial allelochemicals and reduces the population of soil microorganisms, which can affect the growth and health of your plants. 

Horticultural charcoal vs activated charcoal – what is the difference?

The most noticeable difference between horticultural charcoal and activated charcoal is their porosity. Activated charcoal is far more porous than horticultural charcoal, since it is processed at a much higher temperature. For this reason, activated charcoal is more effective for filtration and is best used in the garden if you want to remove harmful chemicals and unwanted odors from your compost.

Additionally, activated charcoal is the more beneficial of the two for use in a sealed terrarium. You can also use horticultural charcoal, but it might not be as effective.

Activated charcoal can also be used for your garden plants, provided it does not contain added chemicals. You can mix it with your potting soil to improve the soil’s aeration, which will ensure your plants’ roots get more oxygen. 

On the other hand, horticultural charcoal like biochar would be more useful for soil amendment. Aside from being used as a filter, this charcoal also comes with added nutrients beneficial for most plants, unlike activated charcoal. It allows healthy soil bacteria to thrive while breaking down soil toxins. 

Horticultural charcoal is also designed to improve soil drainage, so you do not have to worry as much about overwatering issues. Choose a high-quality biochar like Char Bliss to make a bottom layer in the pot before adding your soil mix.

Can I use activated charcoal for plants?

As mentioned before, activated charcoal can be beneficial for your garden plants if your purpose is to remove soil toxins and offensive smells from the compost. Just keep in mind that it might also affect the growth of your plants as it prevents beneficial microbes from thriving in the soil. 

Which charcoal is good for terrariums?

Both horticultural charcoal and activated charcoal are beneficial for terrariums. However, since activated charcoal is more porous and absorbent than horticultural charcoal, it is often the best choice for filtration in a sealed terrarium. 

But, just like an ordinary sponge, the charcoal will eventually become saturated, so make sure to change the charcoal every two to four weeks to keep your terrarium clean and toxin-free.

Benefits of using charcoal in the soil

Whether you choose horticultural charcoal or activated charcoal, either of these will have a lot of benefits for your garden plants. Here are some of those benefits:

• Charcoal has excellent absorbent properties. When added to the soil mix, it can promote good soil aeration and therefore protect plants from root rot.
• Charcoal does a great job of assisting roots in absorbing soil nutrients while keeping the soil well-oxygenated.
• Charcoal, particularly horticultural charcoal, helps keep the soil on the alkaline side. This soil-sweetening will help alkaline-loving plants grow to their full potential.
• Charcoal is also excellent at filtering harmful bacteria and offensive odors, and can help absorb the impurities that might otherwise cause health problems in your plants.
• Charcoal is often used for soil enrichment due to its ability to retain excess fertilizer and make it available for plants’ roots.

How to make charcoal potting mix for houseplants

Charcoal is an excellent additive to improve the quality of your soil. It is best used in conjunction with a nutrient-rich soil mix to ensure your houseplants grow healthily.

Use the recipes below to create a healthy charcoal potting mix for your plants. 

For succulents:

Mix one part activated charcoal with one part perlite and two parts soil.

For orchids:

When creating a charcoal potting mix for orchids, we highly recommend using charcoal chips instead of charcoal powder. Simply add one part medium charcoal chips to four parts medium-grade coco husk or fir bark, and one part perlite.

For tropical houseplants:

Add one part charcoal to three parts coir, three parts bark, and one part worm castings.

To improve the drainage of your pots, it is also a good idea to add a two-inch layer of activated charcoal at the bottom part of the container. Then put your soil mix on top of this charcoal layer. By doing this, you can help prevent root rot and fungal growth.

Horticultural charcoal vs activated charcoal – which is better?

Horticultural charcoal and activated charcoal each have their own unique qualities that might benefit your plants, depending on how they are used.

In general, activated charcoal surpasses horticultural charcoal for purification purposes since it is more porous and absorbent. Activated charcoal is also best for terrariums due to its excellent filtration capabilities.

Despite this, there might be times when horticultural charcoal is the best option. If you want to preserve the healthy microbes in the soil while still getting the benefit of filtering toxins and bad odors, then you should definitely consider horticultural charcoal for your garden.

Conclusion

Horticultural charcoal and activated charcoal are produced in two different ways, although they have several similarities when it comes to their uses. Activated charcoal is generally the best option if your only goal is purification. However, when it comes to soil amendment, horticultural charcoal would usually be the ideal choice.

Image: istockphoto.com / RHJ

Oxalis triangularis is one of the easiest houseplants to care for. Also known as false shamrock or purple shamrock, it is mostly loved for its eye-catching purple leaves. The unique beauty of this plant can really perk up a boring landscape or indoor space!

Oxalis triangularis plants are hardy perennials and can thrive without complaint even in harsh outdoor environments. However, this does not mean they are immune to certain common plant problems. If you notice your Oxalis triangularis drooping, do not lose heart! Read on to find out how to troubleshoot your plant’s problem and bring it back to life.

Why is my Oxalis triangularis drooping?

There are several possible reasons your Oxalis triangularis might suddenly have drooping or wilting leaves. Assess your plant’s symptoms and check if they fit with any of these common issues:

1. Natural dormancy

You might start to worry if your Oxalis suddenly appears sad and lifeless as winter approaches. But do not worry – this is probably normal! 

Like most plants, Oxalis triangularis goes through a period of dormancy. This is the time when plants stop growing to conserve their energy and survive the winter temperatures. Similar to animals that hibernate, Oxalis plants slow down their metabolic activities as they undergo a series of physiological changes.

So, you might notice some wilting or dying leaves and stems on your Oxalis triangularis – but fear not! Your beloved houseplant is not giving up on life. It is simply shedding some foliage in anticipation of the prolonged rest it is about to take. When the growing season returns, it should grow back its beautiful, bushy leaves.

As your Oxalis is entering the dormancy period, the best thing you can do is leave it alone. You can also trim some of its dying leaves and stems while keeping the roots intact beneath the soil. Make sure that your plant can rest in a cool, secure location for the duration of the cold months. Avoid watering it, as this can lead to fungal growth and root rot.

2. Watering issues

So, it is not winter and the sun is shining brightly, but still your Oxalis appears to be in distress. In this case, you need to check your watering routine as the plant might be struggling with watering issues.

Do you regularly forget to water your plants? Underwatering might be the culprit behind your Oxalis’ drooping leaves. Signs like the browning of the leaf tips, dry and crispy foliage, and bone-dry soil can all confirm that your Oxalis is suffering from drought stress. But do not fret – underwatering can usually be fixed quite easily! Just give your plant a good shower until you can see the excess water draining from the pot. Your Oxalis should make a recovery in no time!

The opposite extreme is overwatering, which can also cause problems. We all love to pamper our houseplants, but keeping their soil overly wet all the time will do more harm than good. Using poorly-draining pots and soil can also lead to overwatering, even though you are not actually watering your plants excessively. One sure sign that your Oxalis is drowning in waterlogged soil is when the leaves and stems turn soft and mushy.

The greatest danger of overwatering is that it often causes root rot and fungal growth, which is more complex to treat than simply adjusting your watering schedule. If the damage is extensive, you might need to repot the plant in fresh soil. However, even this will not guarantee that your plant will recover; you need to pray hard or just start all over again!

3. Poor lighting conditions

Although Oxalis does best indoors, that does not mean you can subject it to poor lighting conditions. Like any other plant, it needs sunlight in order to keep its leaves healthy and lush. The light source must be filtered and not too bright – such as morning sunlight. You can try placing your plant near an east-facing window to give it a good amount of light without scorching its leaves.

Can you put your Oxalis outside under full, bright sunlight? The answer is no – please do not do this! The sudden, intense light can be too stressful for your plant and might actually damage its foliage and leave it wilted. If you must move your plant outdoors, make sure to do so gradually, so that it can acclimatize to the outdoor lighting. 

4. Transplant shock

Transplant stress is almost inevitable when you transfer your plants to new pots or new locations, and Oxalis triangularis is no exception. Its roots must adjust to the new soil, or the whole plant must adjust to its new environment, and a degree of droopiness can be expected during this transition. Several other factors, like a lack of moisture, injuries to the root ball or stems while transplanting, and planting too deep, can also contribute to the plant’s drooping appearance. 

At this point, there is almost nothing you can do for your distressed Oxalis but wait and keep your fingers crossed. Just provide the plant with the ideal growing conditions and it should bounce back fairly soon – within about a week or two. Do not forget to check the soil regularly and give your plant sufficient water to keep it hydrated.

5. Plant diseases

If your Oxalis is drooping and also has tiny spots on its leaves that look rust-brown or brownish-yellow, it could be struggling with rust fungus. Although plant diseases are not so common in Oxalis plants, this can be spread from other infected plants.

Sadly, treating this fungal disease can be quite challenging. But do not lose hope – you might still save your Oxalis by following these tips:

• Separate the affected Oxalis from your other plants to prevent any spread of infection.
• Using sterilized pruning shears, trim off the affected leaves. Wipe your cutting tool with alcohol every time you cut to prevent spreading the pathogens.
• Apply fungicide to the affected leaves, following the dosage on the packaging.
• Give your Oxalis the best possible care. Check its progress regularly and continue the treatment as needed. If your plant is not showing signs of recovery, it may be best to discard the dying plant and start over with a new one.

6. Poor potting soil

Soil is an important factor for plant growth. If your Oxalis develops a droopy appearance despite proper watering and care, it might be time to inspect the potting soil.

First, check the quality of the soil. Does it look compact or sandy? When the soil is dense or compact, the plant can suffer from poor water and nutrient uptake. It can also increase the chances of the roots drowning after watering, since compact soil tends to hold onto water for too long. Sandy soil can also be bad for your plant, for the opposite reason – it tends to dry out too quickly. For healthy growth, your Oxalis needs a well-draining, moist potting soil.

The soil’s pH level and nutrients can also have a great impact on your plant’s growth. Ideally, Oxalis should be planted in soil with a pH between 6.1 and 6.5. Additionally, applying the right amount of fertilizer at the right intervals is beneficial for bushier leaves. Just remember not to overfertilize your plants, or you risk irreversible damage to the root system.

7. Pest infestation

Pests are a nuisance, but unfortunately they are everywhere. If you do not keep an eye on your houseplants, you might only discover these little bugs when the damage is already extensive.

Some common pests you should watch out for are spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, vine weevils, and thrips. Many of these hide on the undersides of the leaves, while others can dig into the soil and reproduce there. 

Preventative measures are always the best approach. But, if you notice your plant is already infested, make sure to apply pesticide as soon as possible to get rid of them right away. Also isolate the infested Oxalis to avoid spreading the pests to your other plants.

8. Dusty leaves

Dusty leaves can be problematic for your plants, too. When the surface of the leaves is coated with too much dust, it can block their tiny pores. This disrupts the transpiration process and prevents your plant from absorbing light from the sun.

So, if your Oxalis looks depressed, check its leaves – perhaps they just need a wipe-down to bring them back to life. Try to remember to clean the leaves regularly to prevent dust and other small particles from accumulating on the leaf surface.

How do you revive a drooping Oxalis

Oxalis triangularis is fairly tolerant and not overly fussy when it comes to its care requirements. Thus, reviving a drooping Oxalis should be quite easy, depending on the root cause of the issue.

As mentioned previously, dormancy is the most common reason your purple shamrock is drooping. In this case, you can either wait for the plant to come out of dormancy, or force it out of dormancy. 

The first option involves allowing the old leaves to turn brown and the soil to dry. You only need to gradually start watering the plant once you start to see new growth.

The second option involves trimming off the dead leaves and placing your plant in an area with above-freezing temperatures. Leave it in that spot for up to six weeks without water.

For the other issues, here are some tips to revive your plant:

• Correct your watering habits. The rule of thumb is to water only when the topsoil looks dry. You can also use a moisture meter to help you check the soil’s dryness.
• Keep your plants healthy by establishing preventative measures. This might include applying neem oil or spraying a mild detergent solution on the foliage once a month. This will help prevent plant diseases and opportunistic pests from taking over your Oxalis plants.
• Give your Oxalis the best possible care. That includes providing enough sunlight, using well-draining soil, and applying the right dose of fertilizer. 

Conclusion

Dormancy is the leading cause of drooping in Oxalis triangularis plants. As with other houseplants, this condition is quite normal when the cold season approaches. Other issues like overwatering, underwatering, pests, diseases, lack of sunlight, and poor soil quality might also play a role. So, try to determine the underlying cause, and hopefully you can apply the solutions mentioned in this guide to bring back your plant’s vigor.

Image: istockphoto.com / Bilal photos

Oranges and other citrus fruits are some of the most commonly consumed produce in the home – especially if you have family members with a sweet tooth! Not only are they healthy and delicious; they also make a great addition to salads and several main dishes.

If you and your family love oranges, there are probably times when you end up with quite the pile of orange peels in your garbage can. You could throw them out, but if you want to reduce your household waste, then here is some good news – orange peels can be used in your garden to boost the health of your plants!

Are orange peels good for plants? Yes – and we will explain all the whys and hows in this article.

Can you use orange peels in the garden?

You might think that orange peels have no use and are best discarded with the garbage. But wait – did you know there are some smart ways to recycle your orange peels? In fact, they can be of great use for your garden.

Orange peels are known to be high in vitamins, fiber, polyphenols, and limonene, all of which are important for human health. Unfortunately, though, no one likes to eat orange peels because they taste so bitter. So, while the peels can be turned into candy or marmalade, most of us simply throw them away and just enjoy the sweet fruit inside.

The good thing about orange peels is that they have several uses for your plants. Because they are nutritious, they can be used as garden compost or fertilizer. However, be cautious when using orange peels in your garden, as not all plants appreciate an acidic environment.

Another perk of using orange peels for your plants is that they have a strong, sweet fragrance that attracts beneficial insects like butterflies. The same strong scent can also repel several pests that cause havoc in gardens. Thus, you might say that using orange peels in your garden is like hitting two birds with one stone – the scent can invite garden friends while driving away destructive enemies!

So, if you are looking for sustainable ways to enrich your garden soil while also reducing your household waste, then save your orange peels and use them for your plants.

How are orange peels good for plants?

Before throwing your orange peels into the waste bin, you might want to check out some of their uses and benefits below:

1. Orange peels help acidify the soil

Oranges are naturally rich in vitamin C, which makes them acidic. They have a pH of 3.0 to 4.0, meaning they can significantly improve the acidity level of your soil. This would make your acid-loving plants happy and help them to thrive! You can cut the orange peels into smaller bits or powder them before adding them to your soil. Both indoor and outdoor plants that prefer an acidic medium will benefit from orange peels.

So, which plants like orange peels? Some common houseplants that thrive in acidic soil include rhododendrons, camellias, daffodils, azaleas, and hydrangeas. You can also use orange peels to grow common garden crops like tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, sweet peppers, and potatoes.

2. Orange peels can be used in compost

Composting is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to enrich the soil for your plants. Plus, it is also an excellent way to minimize household waste.

Orange peels, together with other common kitchen scraps, are a great ingredient for making good compost. The decomposed organic materials contain loads of essential nutrients that can give most plants a terrific boost. Before throwing them into your compost bin, make sure to cut them into smaller pieces so that they decompose faster.

Just keep in mind, though, that orange peels and other citrus scraps might not be great for vermicomposting. Worms grow and reproduce best in a neutral environment, so the acidic compounds present in citrus fruits can be harmful to them.

3. Orange peels can be used as a pest repellent

Do you know that orange peels are a natural repellent of common garden pests, including slugs and aphids? The peels are rich in a compound called d-limonene, which can suffocate and kill most bugs.

So how exactly does it work? D-limonene breaks down the pests’ protective waxy coating and damages their nervous systems, in the same way as most pesticides work. 

If you do not like the harmful effects of chemical pesticides, then you might want to give orange peels a try. Simply put the scraps around your plants and the strong fragrance should be sufficient to keep most pests away. 

You can also make your own pest repellent spray using orange peels. This is how:

• Place the orange peels in boiling water for about ten minutes.
• Using a strainer, separate the orange scraps from the liquid.
• Pour the orange peel liquid into a spray bottle.
• Use the liquid to spray your soil and plants once or twice a week.

4. Orange peels help attract butterflies

While some bugs might despise the smell of orange peels, the effect can be just the opposite for butterflies. These beneficial garden insects love the sweet fragrance of oranges. If you leave several orange peels scattered around your garden plants, butterflies will soon arrive to feast on any leftover fruit juices.

Butterflies, like most beneficial insects, are important for pollination. Their bodies help to carry pollen from one plant and transfer it to another. This process facilitates the production of seeds in flowers, vegetables, and fruits in the garden. For this reason, butterflies are considered a gardener’s best friend.

5. Orange peels can be used for seedlings

Orange peels can also be used as cheap alternatives in which to grow your seedlings. To start, simply cut the bottom off of the orange peel and poke small holes for drainage. Fill it with seed-raising mix and add the seeds. Place the seedlings in an area that has access to sunlight and remember to water them regularly – this will help the seeds germinate and develop roots.

Once your seedlings have sprouted roots, stems and leaves, you can transfer them to a pot or garden soil. Orange peels are organic and will easily compost in the soil, so you do not need to remove them when you transfer the seedlings. The orange peels will also nourish the soil as they decompose, facilitating faster and healthier growth of your plants.

6. Orange peels drive away ants and mosquitoes

Both mosquitoes and ants are averse to the strong smell of orange peels. One of the easiest and most sustainable ways to drive them away from your garden is through the use of orange peels. Chop the peels into smaller pieces and toss them around your plants or at ants’ entry points. As long as the orange peels are fresh and have not lost their citrus fragrance, you should be able to repel these nuisances from your plants.

7. Orange peels keep cats and dogs out

Worried about your pets messing up your precious plants? Then you can use orange peels to keep them at bay. Cats and dogs hate the strong scent of citrus peels, so if you scatter these scraps on the soil or around your plant containers, your furry friends will surely leave your plants alone for good. You can also sprinkle small bits of orange peel on the ground where your cats and dogs usually dig to discourage them from digging in the same spots.

8. Orange peels can be used as fertilizer

Just like other fruit and vegetable scraps, orange peels are rich in essential nutrients – particularly magnesium, sulfur, calcium, and nitrogen. These nutrients are all beneficial for plant growth. So, instead of throwing your orange peels in the garbage can, you can turn them into organic fertilizer for your plants and vegetable garden!

The secret to giving your green friends a healthy boost is to allow the orange scraps to ferment naturally. This will create an organic plant food that is rich in nitrogen, an important macronutrient to support healthier leaves and stems.

Here is how to make orange peel fertilizer:

• Cut the orange peels into smaller pieces. This will make them easier to mix and decompose.
• In a clean container, mix about four cups of orange peel, a cup of brown sugar, and 10 cups of water. Stir the mixture thoroughly.
• Cover and seal the mixture with a tight lid.
• Store the mixture in a warm, dark place. Make sure to open the lid at least once a day to release the air pressure, and do this for an entire month.
• After a month, you can loosen the lid of your container. Let the mixture rest for about three months more to allow the enzymes to build up.
• After three months of fermentation, you may now separate the solids and liquids in mixture with a strainer. Add the solid materials to your compost bin.
• Dilute the liquid mixture with water, at a ratio of two teaspoons of orange peel liquid for every quarter gallon of water. Your fertilizer is now ready!
• Use the fertilizer on your plants monthly. If the mixture is too strong for your plants, you can gradually add a bit of water to reduce the strength. This will prevent it from burning your plants.  

Conclusion

So there you have it – a multitude of uses for your citrus waste! Hopefully in the future you will save those precious orange peels to reduce your waste and keep your garden healthy.

Image: istockphoto.com / Qwart

Rose fertilizer is popular among growers to help maximize the growth and beauty of their rose bushes. And, although such fertilizer is specifically formulated for roses, there has been a rising interest in using it for other flowering plants.

So, is rose fertilizer good for other plants? The short answer is yes – rose fertilizer can be used not just for other flowers, but even for some varieties of vegetables. It is rich in macro- and micronutrients, which means it will benefit most plants. 

Below, you will find a short guide to rose fertilizers and why they might be beneficial for your other garden plants.

What is rose fertilizer?

In a nutshell, a rose fertilizer is a type of organic or inorganic food formulated specifically for rose bushes. Fertilizer companies produce this fertilizer to help rose growers provide for the nutritional needs of their plants.

Rose fertilizers contain almost the same macronutrients as the other plant fertilizers available on the market. Roses need a specific ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (NPK ratio) in order to grow and bloom beautifully. Different fertilizers contain different NPK ratios, according to the varying requirements of different plants. For example, a package might indicate a 6-12-6 NPK ratio, which means it contains six percent nitrogen, 12 percent phosphorus, and six percent potassium.

Ideally, roses need other nutrients, too, to encourage healthier and more abundant blooms. Depending on the rose variety, the flower will require a precise combination of elements such as calcium, boron, copper, iron, cobalt, magnesium, zinc, sulfur, and manganese.

Overall, then, there is nothing very special about rose fertilizers, since they are formulated with almost the same nutrients to support plant growth. Some packs might come with different nutrient combinations to support a specific variety of rose. Rose fertilizers can also be combined with organic fertilizers to promote healthy, vigorous blooming throughout the growing season.

Is rose fertilizer good for other plants?

You might have a few doses of rose fertilizer left over and are wondering if you can use them for your other plants as well. Here is the good news – rose fertilizer can be great for other plants. Just like other commercially available plant fertilizers, rose fertilizers contain all the essential nutrients. Whether you want to give a boost to your indoor plants or your vegetable garden, that rose fertilizer can come in handy.

The important thing to keep in mind is that rose fertilizers contain nitrogen – a nutrient known for its acidifying properties. Hence, the higher the nitrogen content in a fertilizer, the more acidic the fertilizer will be. Acid-loving plants like grass and citrus trees will especially appreciate this type of growing medium. 

Rose fertilizers, as mentioned before, are also formulated with phosphorus. This macronutrient is the main ingredient that makes most flowers bloom. If this is the result you prioritize for your plants, then this type of fertilizer could be beneficial. Potassium-rich compost, on the other hand, will assist in the fruiting stage of your plants.

There are many brands of rose fertilizers you can choose from, with Miracle Gro Rose Food being one of the most popular among gardeners. But remember to do your own research before using rose fertilizer on your plants. Some growers might prioritize healthier foliage, while others prioritize the beautiful blooms of their plants. If you apply the wrong type of fertilizer, you might not achieve your desired results!

As mentioned previously, rose fertilizers come in different formulations. To use them effectively on your plants, make sure to follow the recommended dosage on the package. Always remember that too much fertilizer can burn the roots and might even kill your plants!

Benefits of using rose fertilizer on plants

Rose fertilizer can be beneficial for your plants in several ways. It is engineered to enrich plants and vegetables with all the important nutrients to support healthier growth and stronger roots. Using rose fertilizer can also increase your plants’ resistance to many plant diseases, thereby increasing the size and quality of your yield. 

You can also apply rose fertilizer to increase the size of your fruit and enhance the taste. Just make sure to apply the fertilizer to moist soil to ensure proper absorption. You can also combine this with organic compost so that your plants have multiple nutrient sources.

Can you use rose fertilizer for vegetables?

Rose fertilizers are high in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, all of which are essential for garden crops. So, yes – it is possible to use them on your vegetables. But of course, there are some important factors you need to consider to ensure that they will work well for your garden.

First and foremost, most vegetables in their earlier stages of growth might not benefit from rose fertilizer. That is because young vegetable plants need to focus most of their resources on root development. Hence, the best option for growing your veggies at this stage would be to use mulch and organic compost. You should also give your plants a sufficient amount of water and sunlight for them to grow well.

Once your crops are fully established, then you may use rose fertilizer to add supplementary nutrients to the soil. As we have mentioned earlier, some rose fertilizers are formulated with a high nitrogen content, which means they are more beneficial for acid-loving plants. Some vegetables that thrive in acidic soil include cucumbers, tomatoes, parsley, radishes, peppers, and potatoes. Make sure to do your research to properly understand the unique needs of your individual plants.

Can you use rose fertilizer for other flowers?

Rose fertilizer is nutritious for other flowering plants, too. Depending on the variety, this type of fertilizer might help you achieve larger and more beautiful blooms. Other benefits of using rose fertilizer include rapid growth, stronger and more flexible stems, and improved resistance to common pests and diseases.

Again, knowing the formulation of a particular brand is key to successfully using it on your flowering plants. For example, you can apply a 9-14-9 NPK ratio on your hydrangea for about six weeks to promote abundant blooms. You can also add peat moss and vermiculite to the soil during springtime for larger, healthier flowers. 

Aside from adding color to your garden, you can also use rose fertilizer to enrich your lawn and garden beds. Make sure to follow the dosage recommended on the packaging for the best results.

Conclusion

While rose fertilizers are formulated for growing different varieties of roses, they can also be beneficial and safe for other plants. Whether you are growing vegetables or other types of flowers in your garden, your priority is to determine the specific needs of your plants. This way, you will know whether supplementing them with rose fertilizer would be beneficial, or whether it is better to stick with your traditional organic compost to fulfill their nutritional needs.

Image: istockphoto.com / Ludmila Kapustkina

Planning to add a Philodendron variety to your interior decor? Then you have probably come across two of the most popular species – melanochrysum and micans. If you are puzzled about how these gorgeous plants differ from each other, then this guide is for you!

Philodendron melanochrysum vs micans – an overview 

Both Philodendron melanochrysum and micans are highly sought-after varieties. Many growers want these philodendrons in their collection due to their stunning appearance and low-maintenance profile.

Also known as the Black Gold Philodendron, melanochrysum is a climbing vine native to the west Andean foothills of Colombia. Its leaves are shot through with pale-colored veins that create a somewhat unique pattern across the dark green foliage. These traces look like gold flecks, hence the species was named ‘melanochrysum’, which literally means black gold. Another feature that sets this variety apart is its large foliage and its height – plant collectors often display their melanochrysum in a roomy corner with lots of space.

Micans, on the other hand, is another Philodendron species known for its velvety, heart-shaped leaves. Unlike melanochrysum, micans has smaller leaves that generally only grow up to three inches wide. Due to its size and vining growth, your micans is best placed in a hanging planter from which the vines can trail down beautifully.

So, how can you tell micans from melanochrysum?

For a novice gardener, a young melanochrysum might be easily mistaken as a full-grown Philodendron micans because of its small leaves. But, as the plant becomes more established, its foliage will grow to its full size with its signature off-white vein pattern.

Philodendron melanochrysum vs micans – the differences

If you are confused about what makes these two Philodendron species different, here are some features to watch out for:

1. Pattern of growth

One major difference you might notice between melanochrysum and micans is the way they grow as vines.

Melanochrysum is a climbing variety of Philodendron that can grow either upwards or downwards from the pot. This type produces new leaves from the side of the plant that can reach up to 24 inches long, given the right growing conditions. Because of its vining tendency, it is best to add a climbing stick to the pot to help it grow neatly.

Micans, on the other hand, grows leaves in different directions. The vines can quickly become bushy and reach about 12 inches tall and 24 inches wide at maturity. Hence, you can grow your micans in a hanging planter for beautiful wall decor, or let the vines climb gracefully up a pole. Either way, their stunning trail and brightly colored leaves will never fail you.   

2. Leaf color

Another significant difference you might notice between Philodendrons melanochrysum and micans is the color of their leaves during the unfurling stage.

Melanochrysum begins with bronze-colored leaves which, as they continue to grow, gradually transform into a velvety green color. The back of the leaves will be greener than the front side. The size of their leaves is larger, too – they can grow up to two feet in size!

The smaller and bushier leaves of Philodendron micans grow quite differently from those of  the melanochrysum. During the unfurling stage, they change from a light green edged in pink to a deep, velvety green. You will also notice the back side of the leaves developing a purple-red or rusty orange color when exposed to light.

3. Leaf markings

Melanochrysum is well known among plant lovers for its striking leaf markings. Depending on the variety, these markings often come in a cream or off-white color, making a beautiful contrast to the velvety green leaves. 

Unlike melanochrysum, micans does not have such visible markings on its leaves. Instead, this plant, also called the Velvet Leaf Philodendron, is adorned with simple, narrow markings.

Philodendron melanochrysum growth requirements

Although melanochrysum is a rare vining variety of Philodendron, this popular houseplant is relatively easy to care for. You might even see it bloom once it reaches maturity, although growers prefer to cut off the flower to encourage more growth of the beautiful leaves. 

Here are some of the basics you need to remember once you have this lovely plant in your possession:

1. Indirect sunlight

Melanochrysum thrives in areas with bright, indirect sunlight, just like in its native environment where it grows under a canopy of trees. If you are growing it indoors, it is best to try to replicate these conditions for optimal growth. Be careful not to place your plant in a spot that gets direct sunlight, as this will likely burn the leaves.

2. Potting mix

Whether you grow your melanochrysum indoors or out, the rule of thumb to foster proper growth is to keep the soil moist without it becoming soggy or saturated. Most gardeners recommend adding peat moss combined with orchid bark and perlite. Another great alternative is pure sphagnum moss, as this provides a medium that is airy and slightly moist.

Nutrient-rich soil is also essential for Philodendron growth, so do not forget to add a balanced liquid fertilizer every month!

3. Ideal humidity and temperature 

Melanochrysum can be cultivated in a greenhouse or your indoor garden, provided it receives the right temperature and humidity level. In general, these plants need a temperature of 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit to thrive. The humidity should be around 60% or higher, although they can also tolerate normal household humidity without a fuss.

4. Climbing pole

Adding a climbing pole to the planter will help your melanochrysum grow taller and reach its spectacular potential. A moss pole will allow it to attach its aerial roots as it grows and spreads. This way, you can also ensure that your melanochrysum grows neatly in the direction that you prefer.

Philodendron micans growth requirements

Like most Philodendron varieties, micans is low-maintenance and fairly easy to grow indoors. This houseplant is popular for its heart-shaped leaves and fast-growing vines, making it an excellent option for a hanging planter. It can also bloom, but most growers are more appreciative of its stunning foliage. Adding a moss pole or trellis can be useful to keep your bushy micans growing in an upright direction.

To achieve the best results, make sure to provide your micans with the following basic care requirements: 

1. Sunlight 

Due to its forest origins, your micans appreciates bright, indirect sunlight. You should never leave this plant under the scorching direct heat of the sun, or you risk burning its delicate leaves. Instead, grow it indoors near an east-facing window so that it receives a good dose of indirect light.

One important reminder about growing a micans – the amount of light it receives can greatly influence the color of its leaves. Brighter light results in red or maroon foliage, while low light levels can lead to deep green leaves. 

2. Soil type

As with other Philodendron varieties, micans requires slightly moist, well-draining soil to grow healthily. A nutrient-dense potting mix is important, too, and most gardening experts recommend mixing the potting soil with peat moss, orchid bark, coco coir, or perlite to keep your plant happy. Avoid using compacted garden soil, as this will likely cause root rot.

If you do not feel like mixing your own potting soil, we can recommend a ready-mixed potting medium like African Violet Potting Mix to save you the hassle.

3. Watering frequency

The water requirements of your micans are similar to those of most houseplants. That means you should water it only when the top layer of soil has dried out. One method to check this is the finger test method. Simply insert your finger into the top two inches of soil to know whether or not it is still moist. 

Another popular way is to insert a stick – moist soil should turn the stick slightly darker, but without much dirt clinging to the stick. If the soil is saturated, the stick will come out a bit messy; if the soil is dry, the stick will come out dry and without soil debris.

4. Temperature and humidity  

Micans is a tropical vine, so it is no surprise that these Philodendrons appreciate warm and humid environments. In most cases, typical household humidity should be sufficient to keep your micans satisfied, but increasing the humidity level a bit will make it even happier. 

Philodendron micans does best in temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid placing it near heating sources or cold drafts to prevent unsightly damage to the foliage.

Why is Philodendron melanochrysum so expensive?

Plants are often priced according to their unique beauty, variegation, scarcity, or demand. Melanochrysum is a rare variety of Philodendron and is greatly admired for its large and stunning foliage. Hence, it should be no surprise that there is a great demand for it among gardening enthusiasts.

Additionally, the more established a Philodendron is, the higher the price will be. So, if you decide to purchase a fully-grown melanochrysum, you should be ready for an expensive price tag!

Should I grow melanochrysum or micans?

Choosing which Philodendron variety to grow depends largely on your personal preference. If you are looking for a trailing vine to decorate your bare indoor walls, then the bushy micans might be your best bet. If you prefer a stunning ornamental plant to display in the corner of your living room, then melanochrysum is ideal.

Whichever of these gorgeous plants you choose is sure to bring beauty and joy to your living space! 

Conclusion

Knowing the main differences between Philodendrons melanochrysum and micans will help you decide which variety to choose to decorate your living space. Thankfully, by simply observing some of the visual factors mentioned above, you should be able to differentiate between these two plants like an expert!

Image: istockphoto.com / seno aji putra

Sweet potatoes are definitely one of the best crops you can add to your backyard vegetable garden. They are not only tasty and nutritious but also relatively easy to grow. 

But how many sweet potatoes can you expect to harvest per plant? Is it worth the hard work to plant these tropical perennial vines? Let us find out!

Why grow sweet potatoes?

Sweet potatoes are one of the many versatile and tasty vegetables you can grow at home. They come in different varieties – purple, white, yellow, and orange – so you can grow your preferred variety in the backyard for when certain varieties become unavailable at your local grocery store.

The great thing about including sweet potatoes in your diet is that they contain loads of essential vitamins, fiber, and antioxidants – especially the purple ones. Sweet potatoes are not only good for weight loss; they also promote gut health, improve the immune system, and help reduce inflammation and cancer risk.

If you are a big fan of sweet potatoes, you might be considering planting your own crops at home. The good news is that sweet potato plants are low-maintenance and can easily be grown in your garden. Just water them regularly and provide lots of sunshine, and in a fairly short time, you will have your first harvest and enjoy your spoils!

How many sweet potatoes do you get per plant?

If you have considered growing your own sweet potatoes, you might be wondering how many you will be able to harvest off each plant. 

On average, sweet potatoes can produce five to ten tubers per plant, depending on the variety. For example, short-season varieties like Beauregard and Covington can produce three to four tubers per plant, while some long-season varieties can have at least eight tubers per plant.

No matter the variety, you can expect a yield of at least one pound per single plant. However, the long-season varieties can give you more since the tubers can grow continuously until the frost starts. On the other hand, the short-season and bushy varieties will likely produce less, making them ideal for growing in containers.

And how much yield can you expect per square foot? Generally, sweet potatoes can produce around 288 pounds of tubers per 1,000 square feet, assuming the plants are spaced 18 inches apart. Even if you have a smaller garden, you can still expect the same yield per square foot if you follow the same spacing. 

You might also be wondering about how many slips you can grow per tuber. If grown in water, a tuber is expected to continuously produce slip sprouts, up to approximately 10 to 30 slips. Once they reach about two inches long, they are ready for planting to produce new sweet potato plants.

Aside from the variety, there are other factors that can affect the actual yield of your sweet potato plants:

1. Climate and temperature

Sweet potatoes generally prefer to grow in warm temperatures. Although they can tolerate extreme heat or light frost, maintaining a soil temperature somewhere above 55 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal to achieve the best yields. This means that you might need to harvest your sweet potatoes a bit early if winter is looming, even if it means the harvest will be smaller or fewer. 

2. Growing conditions

Caring for sweet potato plants is no different from most vegetable crops. The minimum requirements for growing sweet potatoes include well-draining and slightly acidic soil, sunlight exposure of between eight and ten hours a day, and at least one inch of water every week. 

Well-established sweet potato plants are not terribly picky when it comes to soil quality, as they can tolerate dry soil pretty well. Just remember to stop watering them three to four weeks before your harvest so that the mature tubers do not split. 

3. Spacing between slips

Surprisingly, the space between the plant slips can affect the yield and size of your sweet potatoes. Wider spacing is usually desirable if you prefer to grow larger sweet potatoes. The closer the plant slips are, the smaller the potatoes will be. Growing the plants too close to each other might also limit their growth.

In general, the ideal spacing between slips should be 10 to 18 inches, in rows, and the rows should be spaced 36 to 42 inches apart. Make sure that your slip sprouts are proportionally spaced to achieve the best size of sweet potatoes. 

How to grow your own sweet potatoes?

Planting your sweet potatoes begins by growing sweet potato slips, and these are the steps:

• Choose a sweet potato variety that you want to grow – preferably one that will thrive in your local climate. You can buy your sweet potatoes from the grocery store to start growing the slips.
• Once you have a handful of sweet potatoes, cut them into sections. Root the seed potatoes by suspending them in a glass filled with water. Insert toothpicks into the potato to support it on top of the glass, so that just its bottom touches the water. Do not submerge the entire potato, as this can lead to rotting and stinky smells.
• Place these potato sections in a spot that has access to sunlight. The shoots should start to grow within a few days. 
• When the shoots have grown between four to six inches, remove them from the tuber with a gentle twisting motion.
• Immerse the shoots in another container of water, again submerging only the bottom half. In a few days, you should see roots growing.
• Wait for the roots to reach about an inch or two. By this time, the sweet potato seedlings should be ready to plant. 

Now you have your sweet potato slips ready, you can start planting them in your garden. Like any potato plant, sweet potatoes are fairly easy to grow and care for. Just remember to plant them at the right time of the year – preferably after the last frost – as they are extremely sensitive to freezing temperatures.

To plant your sweet potatoes in the garden, follow these steps:

1. Before transferring the slips to your garden, make sure that the chosen spot receives enough daily sunlight – preferably around eight hours. Sweet potatoes prefer to grow in full, direct sunlight.
2. The soil should be warm – about 60 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit – to optimize the growth of your plants. You can warm up the soil in your garden by adding black plastic mulch after the last frost.
3. Place your sweet potato slips into the soil, preferably about four to six inches deep. Press the soil gently without burying the leaves or the entire stem of the plant.
4. Add a layer of mulch to the soil, about two to four inches thick, to help retain the soil’s moisture.
5. Lastly, water your sweet potato plants regularly. As mentioned, sweet potatoes need about an inch of water per week, or more, depending on the weather and temperature.
6. Most sweet potato varieties will need about 90 to 120 days to be ready for harvest, so be patient! 

How to harvest and store sweet potatoes?

Harvesting the fruits of your labor is the most rewarding experience! But how do you know the best time to harvest your sweet potatoes?

The most common indication that your sweet potatoes are ready is when part of the vine starts turning from deep green to yellow. However, if the first frost is approaching and the vines are still green, it is best to harvest them regardless. 

Most gardeners recommend using a fork to harvest the potatoes, in order to avoid damaging the plant. Carefully loosen the soil with your fork, making sure you do not pierce the tubers. Once the soil is loosened, gently remove the tubers by hand. You can also cut the more vigorous stems of the plant before harvesting, for convenience.

For the best taste, the newly harvested sweet potatoes must be cured for about ten days in a warm, dry location. Once this period is complete, you are ready to enjoy your harvest. There are many ways to eat sweet potatoes – you can boil, bake, fry, or add them to your main dishes. 

If you do not intend to eat the potatoes right away, you can store them in a cool, dry, and dark place, at a temperature of around 55 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity between 75 and 80 percent. Under these conditions, your sweet potatoes should remain fresh for up to six months. Do not forget to check them regularly to prevent mold and rotting. It is a good idea to store the sweet potatoes separately to reduce the risk of any disease spreading and spoiling your entire harvest!

Conclusion

Growing and harvesting your own sweet potatoes can be a fun and rewarding experience, but it takes a bit of knowledge and skill to truly reap the best yields of this amazing crop. 

So, how many sweet potatoes can you expect to harvest per plant? Although the average is about five to ten tubers per plant, the harvest will be influenced by several factors, such as the sweet potato variety, the growing conditions, and how the plants are cared for. 

As long as you provide these tubers with the right growing conditions, you should be rewarded with a plentiful harvest in a matter of months. Do not forget to toss the bad ones and save the healthier tubers for next year’s planting!

Image: istockphoto.com / piyaset

In the gardening world, worms can be both your friend and your enemy. While a lot of growers happily welcome them in their garden beds, some worms can be extremely detrimental to your houseplants and garden vegetables – especially if you are growing them in pots. Even beneficial worms can cause havoc if their population grows out of control.

If you are finding these wrigglers a nuisance, then read on. We will discuss below how to get rid of worms in potted plants naturally, without resorting to harmful chemicals. 

How do worms affect potted plants?

Worms have long been known as a gardener’s best friend. Beneficial for both soil and plants, they recycle organic waste into nutrient-rich soil. Their underground activity also helps improve soil aeration and reduce compaction, thereby helping your plants absorb more of the nutrients available in the soil.

But, while worms can be hugely beneficial for an outdoor garden, they might not be ideal for potted plants. Worms like red wigglers breed prolifically and can overpopulate a pot with limited space. Eventually, the worms will start consuming the roots of the plant since there will be not enough scraps to feed them all. Some worms, like grub worms, also feed on the roots and plant leaves.

The most common signs of worm infestation in potted plants are:

• Worms appear on the surface of the soil
• Visible holes in the topsoil
• Visible worm castings in the pot’s drainage holes
• Your plants look dull and lifeless, which is most likely due to damaged roots

Overall, having worms in potted plants might not offer as many benefits as having them in an outdoor garden. Thus, it is best to get rid of them and establish preventative measures to protect your plants from irreversible damage.

How did worms get into my potted plants?

You might be wondering how on earth these little intruders got into your potted plants in the first place. 

Drainage holes are the most common entry point for worms. Perhaps you moved your potted plants outdoors to give them some natural light and fresh air. When the pots come into contact with the ground or garden soil, there is a chance that worms will crawl up into the pot through the holes. Once inside, they will begin to reproduce, continuing until the day you notice the infestation.

Another way for potted plants to become infested by worms is via the potting mix. If you are using a homemade version, you might have collected some worms and eggs during the process. Before you know it, a bunch of worms is cohabiting with your plants in the pot! 

The most common worms that invade potted plants are:

• Earthworms, which are considered beneficial for outdoor gardens
• Pot worms, which usually appear as a large group of little white threads on the soil
• Red worms or red wigglers, another common friend of garden plants
• Grub worms, a common garden pest that appears as creamy-white larvae
• Plant parasitic nematodes, such as roundworms, are known to damage the root structure of plants

How to get rid of worms in potted plants naturally?

Worried about the dangers of using pesticides on your potted plants? These natural options should help you get rid of worms without harming your plants or your pets:

1. Repot your plant

Often you might not notice that your potted plants are infested with worms until you repot them. While red wigglers appear on the surface of the soil, earthworms commonly hang out at the bottom of the pot. When you find these critters cohabitating with your plants, the first thing you need to do is to remove them one by one.

Grab a sieve to catch the worms before repotting your plants in fresh soil. Remove whatever worms you might find using a pair of tweezers, or by hand. You can toss the beneficial worms into your compost bin or garden soil, and discard those that are considered harmful.

Most importantly, do not forget to rinse the roots before transferring your plant to a fresh potting mix. This will ensure that no worm eggs are left on the roots, thus eliminating the chance of new worms hatching in the new pot. You should also throw away the old soil instead of composting or reusing it, to prevent re-infestation. You can wash the old pot with one part bleach and 10 parts water, or transfer your plant to a brand new pot.

2. Soak the root ball in soapy water

Although worms love to hide in soggy soil, they still need oxygen to breathe. So, the best way to naturally get rid of them is to soak your plant in a bucket of water. Make sure the container is large enough for your plant.

Some gardeners also recommend diluting the water with some insecticidal soap. Submerge the root ball in this mixture and, after 20 minutes, you should see the worms floating to the surface. 

Another option is to use diluted Dawn dishwashing soap if you do not have insecticidal soap available. Just be cautious when using human detergents, though, as the active chemicals can potentially harm your plants. Carefully submerge the root ball in the mixture for 20 minutes. Do not soak the stems and leaves. Worms hate any form of detergent, so you should see the pesky creatures emerging pretty soon! 

3. Use organic agents

Organic pesticides are your best option if you do not like to apply dangerous chemicals to your potted plants. For example, the most common natural product used to treat plant pests and fungal diseases is neem oil. The one downside is that it only works against hornworms and grub worms – it cannot kill earthworms.

Another excellent option to deter pests and worms is hot pepper spray, thanks to its active ingredient, capsaicin. This chemical is 100% safe to use on your plants – even on your vegetables. You can easily make your own hot pepper spray by blending some chilies with water. A more hassle-free option is to purchase a commercial hot pepper spray from Amazon. Unfortunately, hot pepper sprays might not work on all types of worms and pests, so make sure to do your research first.

4. Attract natural predators

Bringing natural predators into your garden is a great method to keep the worm population in check. This might include smaller animals and insects that feed on common garden worms like earthworms and grubs. Do not worry – these friendly visitors are unlikely to harm your plants and would rather feast on the slippery creatures in the soil!

Some natural enemies of garden worms are:

• Birds will naturally visit your garden plants to seek something to eat, such as worms. To invite these plant-friendly guests, make sure you have a birdhouse and feeder installed in your backyard.
• Praying mantis, an insect that loves roses and berries. Make sure you have tall grass around your garden to give these little carnivores a place to hide.
• Frogs are known to be excellent pest-eaters. These amphibians consume a buffet of worms as well as slugs, snails, and a wide variety of insects. Hence, you can count on these creatures to control common garden pests without resorting to pesticides.
• Fireflies, also known as lightning bugs, are voracious carnivores. Their common diet includes slugs, snails, and worms. Fireflies do not carry diseases, harm your plants, or bite you. These bugs are also not poisonous, making them extremely beneficial for your garden.

5. Use corrugated cardboard

Do you know that worms love corrugated cardboard? Most corrugated cardboard is held together by glue made of cornstarch, and worms really enjoy feeding on this material. They eat shredded paper and cardboard, too! So, instead of throwing away your old cardboard, use it to attract your wiggly friends away from your plants.

Simply wet a piece of cardboard and leave it on the soil overnight. The next morning, you should see a bunch of worms feasting on the cardboard. You can decide whether to set the beneficial worms free outside, use them in your compost bin, or even collect them for fishing bait! 

Ways to prevent worms in potted plants

Prevention is always better than cure. So, unless you intend to add beneficial worms to your potted plants, it is best to avoid getting them into the pots in the first place!

Using sterile soil is your best defense against worm infestations. Since the bags that contain the potting mix are sealed, there is no way for worms to get inside and lay eggs.

As mentioned before, worms can also reach your plants by entering through the pot’s drainage holes. If you take your indoor plants outside to water them, avoid placing the pots directly on the ground. Instead, place them on top of a table or any other structure to prevent soil contact.  

Lastly, keep in mind that worms thrive in moist environments. As a prevention aid, make sure to water your plants only when the soil is dry. Otherwise, keeping the soil moist all the time will likely attract worms as well as other harmful pests and pathogens!

Conclusion

Not all worms are beneficial for your garden. Although it is rare to see a worm infestation in your potted plants, it is still possible for some worms to make their way into your pots. Thankfully, though, there are natural ways to get rid of them. 

Do not forget to check what type of worms you have in the pot, as you might find some that are beneficial to your outdoor garden. Toss those wiggly soil helpers into your garden or compost bin, while discarding the harmful ones!

Image: istockphoto.com / Maryana Serdynska

Growing your tomatoes in grow bags is an excellent option to save space in your garden. But what size grow bag is best for tomatoes? 

Knowing the right bag size for growing tomatoes can be tricky for a first-time gardener. But do not worry – in this article, we will share everything you need to know about getting it right, so read on!

Benefits of using grow bags for tomatoes

Although grow bags have been used for planting since ancient times, gardeners have recently learned to love these alternative plant containers due to their numerous benefits. Here are some reasons grow bags might be a good option for growing tomatoes:

1. Grow bags offer portability

One of the many advantages of growing tomatoes in grow bags is portability. Unlike plants grown in garden beds, tomatoes in grow bags can be easily moved whenever necessary. Grow bags are also lightweight and designed with two handles, making them easy to pull along when moving your plants.

For example, you might need to move your tomato plants frequently to make sure that they are getting enough sunlight every day. This is the exact opposite of using traditional clay pots or containers, since those can be really heavy and inconvenient to move from one location to another.

2. Grow bags require minimal storage space

Unlike traditional clay pots or planters, grow bags do not take up a lot of storage space. Once the growing season is over, simply fold the bags and stash them away until you are ready to reuse them. This makes them the perfect option for gardeners with limited space.

3. Grow bags prevent drainage issues

Most tomato varieties require lots of watering to thrive. Unfortunately, this can also lead to waterlogged soil if you are using pots that have poor drainage.

Drainage issues are not a problem, however, if you are using fabric grow bags. Instead of keeping the soil soaking wet for extended periods, the extra water will simply drain out of the bag or evaporate through the fabric. Keeping the soil well-drained will help prevent root rot, pests, and harmful pathogens.

4. Grow bags prevent heat damage

Tomato plants grown in containers can easily suffer from excessive heat on hot summer days. With fabric grow bags, meanwhile, the heat will not be trapped inside since the material is breathable. The porous material of the bag will help keep the soil cool and prevent your plants from being roasted by the sun. 

5. Grow bags promote a stronger root system

Another perk of using grow bags for tomatoes is an improved root system, thanks to a process called air pruning.

If you plant your tomatoes in pots or plastic containers, their roots will continue to grow as they are not exposed to air. The pot’s limited space can turn all these roots into a dense, tangled mass. Eventually, the root-bound plant will stop growing and display signs similar to those of underwatering, such as wilting and browning of the leaves.

Unlike pots and plastic containers, grow bags have excellent aeration which exposes the roots to more air inside the bag. This process is known as air pruning, and it helps promote healthier and stronger plant roots.

What are determinate and indeterminate tomatoes?

Before we reveal the best grow bag size for tomatoes, it is important to know the variety of tomato plants you are planning to grow.

As you might know already, tomatoes come in different varieties, and each variety comes with different growth patterns and sizes. Fortunately, most grow bags are designed to be suitable for most types of tomatoes. Whether you are planting a determinate or indeterminate variety, there will be enough space for your plants to grow to their full potential.

Determinate tomato cultivars grow to a predetermined size – approximately three to four feet high. These varieties are also known for their bushy, compact appearance. Hence, smaller sizes of grow bags are usually sufficient for this type of tomato.

One thing to keep in mind is that determinate tomatoes produce fruit during the first growing cycle, typically within a period of two weeks. Once all the fruits have ripened, the plant will lose its vigor and will no longer produce new fruits. Because of this growth habit, determinate tomatoes are ideal for growers who want to grow and harvest their tomatoes in a short window of time. Afterwards, the plant can be discarded or you can take cuttings and start growing new tomato plants.

Some common determinate tomato varieties are:

• Rutgers
• Early girl
• Celebrity
• Roma

Indeterminate tomatoes, on the other hand, are varieties that can grow and produce fruits throughout the growing season, up until the plants are killed by hard frost. Although they are a bit slower to grow and produce fruit, you are guaranteed a continuous harvest. 

These plants also tend to be larger, with more vining branches than the determinate varieties. Hence, these varieties are best planted in larger grow bags. They can reach between 10 to 12 feet tall, so if you are growing indeterminate tomatoes, you need to have a large garden space to accommodate their huge size.   

Some of the popular indeterminate tomato varieties include:

• Big mama
• Beefsteak
• Sungold
• Brandywine
• Better boy
• Sweet million

What size grow bag is best for tomatoes?

The rule of thumb is to choose a large grow bag, depending on the tomato variety you are growing. The larger the bag, the better. Keep in mind that you also need to consider factors such as allowing sufficient space for the roots to grow.

So, you might be wondering – how many tomatoes can you grow in a 10-gallon bag?

Generally, growers use a 10-gallon grow bag for a single tomato plant. This bag size should provide space of 15 inches in diameter and a depth of 12 inches, which is sufficient for growing a healthy tomato plant.

But, if you are planning to grow more than one plant in a single bag, then the best grow bag size would be about 20 to 30 gallons. This size should provide a depth of 14 inches (or more) – enough to accommodate all the growing roots until they are fully established.

What about a smaller grow bag size? Are five-gallon grow bags good for tomatoes?

Yes, five-gallon grow bags are also fine for growing tomatoes, provided that the plants are the determinate and miniature varieties. You can even grow small-sized tomato plants in a two- or three-gallon bag. For best results, though, it is recommended to grow only a single tomato plant in a smaller-sized grow bag. Do not overcrowd your tomatoes in a single small bag or they will have to compete for moisture and nutrients.

What is the best grow bag for tomatoes?

Grow bags come not only in different sizes, but also different materials. We highly recommend choosing a bag that is breathable, well-draining, and reusable. It should also be convenient to fold and store until your next planting activity. 

Some of the best grow bags for tomatoes are:

• VIVOSUN Plant Grow Bags: This grow bag is made of breathable fabric with strong handles attached, so you can move your tomato plants with ease. 

• 247Garden Fabric Grow Bags: Like VIVOSUN, this grow bag is also made of fabric to provide good aeration for your plants, and also comes with sturdy bag handles. Aside from the standard sizes (three to 30 gallons), the bag is also available in 100 and 200 gallons.

• Best Root Pouch from Maui Mike’s: If you are looking for an eco-friendly grow bag, then this is your best bet. These grow bags from Maui Mike’s are made from recycled water bottles and natural fibers designed to be breathable for the plants’ roots. They also come with sturdy handles for easy moving.  

Factors for choosing a grow bag for tomatoes

Grow bags are available in different sizes, shapes, and materials, so how do you know which one is best for your tomatoes? These important factors should help you make the right decision: 

1. Material type

Grow bags can be made of fabric, canvas, or felt. The material type depends entirely on your personal preferences, but the fabric ones are the most popular options among growers. We recommend sticking with fabric materials as they are more durable and breathable. 

2. Tomato variety

The type of tomato you intend to grow can greatly influence the size of your grow bag. If you are growing a determinate variety, then smaller bags are usually suitable since these tomatoes are compact and small. Indeterminate varieties, on the other hand, will generally require larger grow bags due to their bigger size and more established root systems.

3. Soil type

The type of soil you want to use for your tomatoes is also an important factor when choosing the size of your grow bag. A standard potting mix is the most recommended soil type for tomatoes. You can also use traditional garden soil, but this medium will require a larger grow bag to ensure that there are enough nutrients available for your plant.

4. Weather conditions

The weather conditions can greatly affect the watering needs of your plants. Keep in mind that grow bags are well-aerated, so they might dry very quickly on hot days. Smaller-sized grow bags will thus need to be watered more frequently than larger ones. If you are living in an area with high temperatures, then the larger grow bags might be best suited for your tomato plants. Rainy seasons, on the other hand, are a different story – make sure to adjust your watering to prevent oversaturated soil that can cause root rot.

5. Garden location

Whether you are growing your tomatoes indoors or outdoors will affect their care requirements, too. Hence, you will need to adjust the size of your grow bag according to the location of your tomato garden.

Conclusion

In summary, tomato plants need extra space to grow their roots healthily and produce the best yields. For this reason, choosing the correct size of grow bag is very important. A 10-gallon grow bag is usually the most recommended size for tomatoes, but you might need to adjust this depending on the variety of your tomatoes. Just remember that the larger the grow bag, the better it will be for your plants! 

Image: istockphoto.com / Vika-Viktoria

Have you ever wondered whether it is possible to grow a plant from seed to full maturity in the space of two weeks? Well, although many are resilient and highly adaptable, it is quite rare to find plant species that can mature as early as two weeks.

The only exceptions are microgreens and some vegetable varieties. If you are particularly impatient and want to see results really quickly, then planting these greens in your garden would be the best option.

Most plants will at least start to germinate within two weeks, but as a rule of thumb, they need a few weeks or even months to grow from seed to maturity. Hence, patience is key! Although the wait may be a bit longer, your hard work will be rewarded with beautiful blooms or a bountiful harvest.

But, if you are up for the challenge of growing a plant to maturity in two weeks, we have listed some of the best varieties for you to try, so do check them out below!

Vegetable plants that grow in two weeks

Although most vegetables, including leafy greens, would generally take about 40 to 70 days to grow from seed to harvest, there are some varieties that you can grow within two weeks! So, if you want to enjoy a good harvest in a really short period, here are some leafy greens we recommend:

1. Garden cress

One of the easiest vegetables to grow in your garden is garden cress. These mounding perennials need very little attention and will grow happily in your garden beds without any complaint. They can also be grown in a hanging basket or any other plant container if you are a little short on space!

Known as halim in Hindi, garden cress is commonly used as a garnish or add-on to salads. The herb can also be used in soups or as a garnish on sandwiches, thanks to its tangy, peppery flavor.

Garden cress is quite nutrient-dense, too; these leafy greens are rich in vitamins A, C, D, K, and folate. The seeds are significantly high in omega-3 fatty acids, making them a great addition to your diet to protect your cardiac health.

Garden cress can be harvested as early as two weeks from planting. To successfully grow this super green, remember to plant the seeds three to four inches apart and a quarter to a half inch deep in the soil. The seeds can be grown outdoors about two weeks before the last frost. After five to 15 days, the seedlings should start to show roots and leaves. 

2. Arugula

If you love salads, you are probably well-acquainted with arugula leaves already. But these tasty leaves are not just great for salads – they can be sauteed or steamed with other leafy greens, too! 

Also known as roquette, or rocket, arugula is mostly loved for its tangy, mustard-like flavor. It is good for you, too, being rich in calcium, potassium, and antioxidants.

Arugula grows best in well-draining, nutrient-rich soil. It also prefers slightly acidic soil – anywhere in the range of pH 6.0 to 7.0. The arugula seeds can be sown directly in the ground, but they will also do well in raised beds and planters, as long as the soil temperature is maintained at or near 40 degrees Fahrenheit. The seeds can germinate pretty fast – as early as seven days, especially during the summer months. 

The younger leaves of the plant can be harvested within three weeks and used in your salads. For a continuous harvest, make sure to sow new arugula seeds once every two to three weeks. 

3. Pea shoots

Pea shoots are the tiny, delicate leaves and stems commonly harvested from any pea plant, including English peas, snow peas, and sugar snap peas. These little greens are also super easy to grow and can be ready for harvest in as little as two weeks. Not only are they fast-growing; they are tasty and nutritious, too! Like most leafy greens, pea shoots are a great source of vitamins and antioxidants that can help to fight cancer and inflammation.

If you are new to home gardening, then planting pea shoots can be a great option. Since they grow very fast and are extremely tolerant of shady areas, it can be easy as well as rewarding to grow pea shoots in your garden. You only need to wait about two to three weeks to enjoy the young leaves in your salads and sandwiches!

The secret to growing pea shoots successfully is to soak your dry peas in water overnight before planting them. The next day, plant the soaked peas in your preferred container or planting tray. We recommend growing trays made of durable materials, such as this seed starter tray from Amazon.

And here is our bonus tip to make your pea plants grow bushier: trim the tips of your plants about two to six inches every three weeks. This will encourage the growth of new leaves and stems for a continuous harvest of pea shoots, or until your plants produce peas.

4. Baby bok choy

There is nothing more satisfying than cooking fresh, healthy greens straight from your own garden! One of the fastest-growing vegetables you can grow is bok choy, a type of Chinese cabbage known for its smooth, tender leaves and white stalks that resemble celery.

Bok choy contains loads of vitamins and antioxidants, making it a superfood similar to other greens like spinach. In fact, this Chinese cabbage has more vitamin C and A than most other leafy greens. So, if you want to include the healthiest greens in your diet, you cannot go wrong planting bok choy in your garden.

To grow this vegetable, you can either sow the seeds directly in your garden after the frost, or grow the seedlings indoors from four weeks before the last frost. Plant the seeds about half an inch apart and a quarter inch deep in the soil. When transferring the seedlings into the ground, make sure to space them about six to 12 inches apart for adequate growing space. Harvest the young leaves when the plants reach about five inches tall. For a continuous harvest, plant more bok choy every four to six weeks.

5. Microgreens

Growing microgreens in your own backyard can have numerous benefits. These young greens are not only seriously tasty; they are also packed with more vitamins and nutrients than full-grown greens! Depending on the type you are growing, microgreens offer an intense, aromatic flavor that makes them a great addition to salads, smoothies, tacos, and omelets.

Some of the more common microgreens you can grow in your garden include:

• Broccoli
• Lettuce
• Cabbage
• Kale
• Oregano
• Radish
• Alfalfa
• Spinach
• Cauliflower
• Mustard  

To plant your microgreens, you will need a light source, seeds of your chosen variety, and a growing tray. If you plan to use a seed sprouter tray, you will not even need soil! Simply sow your seeds at the bottom of this tray, fill it with some water, put its cover on, and let it sit under a light source until the seeds germinate. Continue watering the seeds twice a day until they begin to sprout. Then, let your micro herbs grow a little bit and, within about two weeks, you can enjoy them as toppings on your sandwiches or garnish on your salads!

Other fast-growing plants

Although vegetables are the most popular option to grow in two weeks, there are also some other plants that can grow within a few weeks.

If you enjoy growing flowers to add a touch of color to your bare landscape, then here is a list for you! These flowers only need about 60 to 70 days to bloom from seed under the right growing conditions. Some of your options include:

• Sweet alyssum
• Johnny jump-ups
• Nigella
• Annual phlox
• Poppies
• Sunflowers
• Cornflowers
• Calendula
• Marigold

You can also try a variety of fast-growing houseplants if you prefer your garden indoors. Although they will not shoot up quite as fast as two weeks, these plants are forgiving and easy to care for, even in not-so-ideal growing conditions. Here are some popular options that will reward you with bushy growth in a relatively short period:

• Arrowhead plant
• Aloe vera
• Philodendron
• Pothos
• Billbergia nutans
• Silver squill
• Swedish ivy
• Wandering sailor
• Asparagus fern
• Spider plant
• Turtle vine  

How much do plants grow in two weeks?

Different species of plants have different growth rates, so there is no definite answer as to how much a plant will grow in two weeks. Generally, plants can grow up to an inch every week, depending on the variety as well as on several other factors like fertilizer application, environmental temperature, light exposure, and the amount of water they receive.

Annuals and perennials, for example, can generally grow about an inch or two in the space of two weeks. Fast-growing evergreen shrubs, on the other hand, might grow 0.9 inches in two weeks. Slower varieties of evergreens will need more of your patience as they can only grow about 0.02 inches in two weeks. Trees will also grow at about that rate – about a half an inch to over an inch in the same time frame, depending on the variety.

Hence, if you are growing plants in your backyard, an inch of growth after two weeks is generally a good indicator. Other factors, like the size and color of the leaves, should also be taken into consideration.

Conclusion

Growing any type of plant requires a certain time frame before you see it bloom and mature. Most plant seeds will begin to sprout within ten days, while some vegetables can grow quickly enough to be ready for harvest within two weeks. Most houseplants can grow about an inch in two weeks, but they will need a few more months to reach their full-grown size.

So, if the time of growth matters to you, make sure to choose a fast-growing plant variety for your garden. Hopefully, this guide has already given you some idea as to what to grow in the next summer season!

Image: istockphoto.com / letterberry