Audrey Woods

Your lovely evergreen ceanothus has been growing beautifully throughout spring, when suddenly you notice several of its leaves turning yellow. Naturally, this will have you worried!

Ceanothus leaves can turn yellow due to improper watering, prolonged sunlight exposure, overfertilization, or natural aging. Before you panic, take a few deep breaths and assess your plant’s condition. Sometimes, all you need to do is tweak your plant care routine to save the entire plant from yellowing. 

Ceanothus plant care basics

One of the many reasons gardeners love ceanothus is due to its impressive display of beautiful blue flowers. Also known as Californian lilac, blueblossom, or buckbrush, ceanothus is endemic to the Pacific coast of North America. It belongs to the Rhamnaceae family and includes more than 60 different species that are identified as small trees or shrubs. 

While most ceanothus species produce blooms in shades of powder blue to azure, a few cultivars can also have pink or white flowers. Depending on the variety, these sweet, fragrant blooms mostly emerge during the spring and summer, with certain cultivars blooming in the fall. This means you can choose ceanothus cultivars to fill your garden with flowers across most of the year!

If you plan to grow these dazzling blooms in your area, keep in mind that most ceanothus species thrive in zones seven to nine. A few cultivars, like the Ceanothus americanus, can also grow in zones four to eight. So choose wisely!

One important feature of ceanothus species is that they tend to be drought tolerant once fully established. Evergreen or deciduous, these plants are happier in full sunlight, but they can also grow in partial shade. If you live in an area with an extremely hot climate, then planting your ceanothus in partial shade would be a better option to avoid sunburn.

For newbie gardeners, growing a mass of pretty blooms in this rarest of blue colors might seem a little bit intimidating. But here is some good news – you do not have to be a green thumb to succeed in growing Californian lilacs. These flowering species are among the easiest to grow, as long as the conditions are right – moist, well-draining soil and a sheltered area with lots of sunlight. Ideally, you should choose a ceanothus cultivar that is suited to your local climate. 

Causes of yellow leaves on ceanothus

So, you have just been enjoying the beautiful growth of your ceanothus when all of a sudden its leaves start turning yellow. This unsightly appearance can be both surprising and alarming, especially if you cannot identify the underlying cause.

There are several reasons your ceanothus shrub might develop yellow leaves, as summarized below:

1. Prolonged sunlight exposure

Extreme sunlight exposure can turn the leaves of your beautiful shrubs yellow. Sunburn, or leaf scorch, is a common issue, not just for ceanothus but almost any shrub or ornamental plant exposed to direct sunlight.

While sunlight is necessary for plants to photosynthesize, excessive heat and harmful UV rays can quickly dry their leaves through increased transpiration. The roots will not be able to meet the increased demand for moisture, which is why the leaves wilt, become pale, and develop burned spots. Thankfully, this issue can be resolved by transferring your plant to a spot with enough shade cover.

Do not move your ceanothus to full shade, however, as a lack of sunlight can also yellow its leaves. Try to position it where it can get the optimum amount of sunlight without burning its leaves or being totally deprived of light. On hot days, consider adding a shade cloth to protect your plant from the heat.  

2. Too much water

Overwatering is another reason your ceanothus might produce yellow leaves. As you might know already, ceanothus is used to the dry climate of California, which is its native habitat. This means that water pooling around its roots can quickly drown the plant by cutting off the supply of oxygen to its roots. If the issue is not corrected right away, the excess moisture can cause the roots to rot and compromise the health of your entire plant, hence the yellowing leaves. 

Other signs of overwatering include wilting, leaf drop, and stunted growth.

Your quick intervention is important to save your shrub from the ill effects of overwatering. If you have caught the issue in time, you simply need to stop watering immediately and give the soil time to dry completely. Use a soil moisture probe to accurately determine the dampness of the soil from now on, and water your plants only as needed. This will likely be more during summer than in winter.

3. Poor soil drainage

Poor soil drainage can have effects similar to those of overwatering. Even if you are not actually giving your plants too much water, the lack of drainage can cause water to pool in the soil and eventually drown the roots. Clay or compacted soil is especially problematic for your ceanothus, so make sure you choose your soil wisely!

One way to correct a drainage issue is to add sand or stones to improve the soil’s aeration. You may also consider using a tool like a digging fork or a plug coring aerator to amend the compacted soil in your garden before planting. Poke holes into the soil as deeply as you can to break up any compaction underneath and loosen the soil even more. Avoid walking or stepping on your garden bed as this can lead to compaction all over again.

Lastly, make sure that your shrubs are planted away from sprinkler systems or sloped areas such as at the bottom of a hill. 

4. Root rot disease

Root rot is caused by soil-borne fungal pathogens that thrive in wet environments. It tends to be prevalent in overwatered plants, including ceanothus – even more so when the weather is warm and humid. Shrubs affected with this disease struggle with decayed roots that feel mushy and emit a foul odor.

Unfortunately, severe cases of root rot can be difficult to treat. As the disease progresses, your ceanothus will start to show several other signs such as wilting, dropping leaves, dieback of stems and foliage and, eventually, death. The fungal disease can also spread quickly through the soil, so it is very important to discard the affected plant immediately and apply soil treatments to prevent nearby plants from infection.

5. Underwatering

A lack of water can also cause leaf yellowing. Dehydrated shrubs will also lose their turgor and appear a bit sad and lifeless. The leaves may wilt, curl, and feel dry or brittle due to the lack of moisture.

But, unlike overwatering, underwatering is usually quite easy to reverse. Checking the soil regularly should provide a clue as to when your plants need a drink. Depending on your local climate, you should be watering your ceanothus thoroughly once every two to three weeks, or every time the soil starts to look dry. However, do not let the soil become bone-dry, or you risk damaging the root system.

6. Too much fertilizer

Yellow leaves can be a key indicator that your shrubs are struggling with overfertilization. In this case, you might also notice a white crust forming on the top layer of the soil. This condition is known as root burn, and aside from the yellowing leaves, it can also cause leaf deformities, wilting, stunted growth, and browning leaf tips.

The best way to treat overfertilization is to flush the excess nutrients out of the soil with water. Flood the soil thoroughly using a sprinkler or a garden hose, but make sure not to leave the soil too watery. Repeat the process every few days and let your shrub recover for about a month or so before feeding it again.

7. Summer leaf drop 

The yellowing of your ceanothus leaves does not always mean trouble. If your shrubs are grown in the right conditions and you cannot identify any potential issues, then the yellow leaves could just be part of their natural growth cycle.

So, take a closer look at your plants. Are the yellow leaves mostly on the lower branches? Do the yellow leaves appear old and large, and evenly distributed throughout the foliage? Do you notice new leaves growing on the branches? If so, then your ceanothus is probably showing signs of summer leaf drop. This process is normal for most plants.

Shedding of the older leaves helps evergreens conserve their resources to make way for new, healthy leaves. You might notice your shrubs losing a few leaves occasionally, but not all at once. 

If you are bothered by the unsightly yellow leaves, you can gently cut them off. Do not worry – cutting a few yellow leaves will not harm your plant. Otherwise, just leave your shrub alone and let it do its thing.

How do I fix yellow leaves on my ceanothus?

Yellowing of ceanothus leaves is mostly caused by improper watering, so consider correcting this issue first to save your shrub. Water your plant thoroughly and deeply, and let the soil dry out before watering again. Avoid planting it near a water source such as a sprinkler or drip hose, and make sure not to add too many moisture-retaining materials into the soil, like compost or mulch.

Adequate sunlight is important for ceanothus, too. These beautiful shrubs prefer a brightly-lit spot but without too much intense heat. If your local climate is too harsh for your ceanothus, consider using a shade cloth to protect its delicate foliage. Alternatively, plant it in a spot that gets filtered sunlight.

Some wall-trained ceanothus varieties can benefit from deadheading to maintain a tidy appearance and promote re-flowering. You can also prune your deciduous ceanothus in early spring for post-flowering shaping and size management. Just make sure not to overdo it, as most varieties do not tolerate hard pruning. 

Conclusion

Ceanothus plants are easy to care for, but at times can still be susceptible to problems that cause their leaves to yellow. The cause is usually linked to improper watering or sunburn, although sometimes the yellowing may just be part of the plant’s natural shedding process. In the latter case, just sit back and let a few leaves drop naturally.

Image: istockphoto.com / Krzysztof Dac

How to Care for Dendrobium Kingianum

Dendrobium kingianum is a popular species of orchid that originated from eastern Australia. It is also known as pink rock orchid, as it is often found growing on rocks. Other names for this orchid are Thelychiton kingianus and Captain King’s dendrobium. Most gardeners grow pink rock orchids for their attractive flowers that emerge on a three-to-six-inch-long raceme. 

If you are curious to learn more about the care requirements for Dendrobium kingianum, this article will provide you with everything you need to know to grow this beautiful orchid.

Dendrobium kingianum care tips

Pink rock orchids can grow and flower vigorously with a bit of care and attention, particularly during the warmer months. Follow the tips discussed below to successfully grow your Dendrobium kingianum:

1. Sunlight requirements

As with other orchids, Dendrobium kingianum flourishes in areas with access to bright sunlight. These ornamentals can also tolerate low lighting, but you might not see them bloom in such conditions. It is highly recommended to plant your pink rock orchids in a garden facing east, west, or south, as these directions tend to have the best sunlight exposure.

One thing to keep in mind, though, is that the afternoon sunlight can be a bit too harsh for these orchids. So, if you live in an area with a hot climate, consider using a shade cloth to protect your plants from such intense heat. 

2. Ideal temperature and humidity

Dendrobium kingianum is comfortable in temperatures between 40 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. These plants are quite tough, however, and have been known to withstand temperatures up to 104 degrees Fahrenheit. 

During the winter season, make sure that your orchids are not exposed to freezing temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Remember that the correct temperature is critical for their growth, and abrupt temperature changes can be very stressful. Consider raising the temperature gradually after the cold weather, especially if they have any flower spikes developing.

As for humidity, pink rock orchids happily thrive in an environment with 50 percent humidity. They can tolerate low humidity too, but you might not see their best growth and blooming under those conditions.

Fortunately, there are many simple methods that can help you improve the humidity in your growing area, one of which is misting. A word of warning, though – you should never mist your plants at night. Damp environments can promote fungal growth and cause unwanted rotting of the leaves and stems. Hence, you should only mist in the morning so that your plants have the entire day for their foliage to dry.

Another tip to raise the humidity is by using a humidifier. This is by far the most efficient and safest way to manage your indoor humidity. Most plants thrive in humidity of 50 to 70 percent, and a humidifier can easily help you reach this level. 

3. Potting mix

Generally, almost any orchid potting mix should suit your Dendrobium kingianum. Several growers also swear by the amazing results of mixing bark and perlite or charcoal and bark, so you might also try one of these. 

Dendrobium kingianum is considered an epiphyte or lithophyte. This simply means that these orchids, in their native habitat, grow on rocks or on another plant. So, instead of having their roots buried in the soil as other ornamentals do, they will be happier when grown in a well-draining medium with plentiful pockets of air. 

4. Watering needs

Water plays an important role in the health and vigorous flowering of your orchids. Ideally, your Dendrobium kingianum should be watered once or twice a week from spring to summer, but this might vary depending on your local climate. Check the potting mix regularly and do not let it get too dry. Increase your watering as needed, particularly during hot spells. 

When watering, make sure the excess water is able to drain thoroughly from the pot. And, for the best results, use rainwater to water your plants. Rainwater is preferable because it is low in minerals and treatment chemicals. Additionally, it is a good source of nitrogen and is slightly acidic, making it a healthier choice to nurture your orchid garden. 

During wintertime, most plants become less active and it is therefore extremely important to reduce your watering to avoid root rot. Also water earlier in the day so that the foliage has plenty of sunlight hours to dry. 

5. Repotting

Pink rock orchids are generally happier when left in a rootbound state. Hence, these plants do not necessarily need frequent repotting, unless the canes no longer have enough space and are about to burst from their containers. 

Although your Dendrobium kingianum does not have a large root system, it might benefit from being repotted every one to two years. However, if the growing medium becomes too soggy, consider repotting it sooner to save it from root rot and other fungal diseases. 

To repot your orchid, carefully untangle the roots and remove the soil debris before transferring it to a new, bigger pot. Make sure that the new container is well-draining and provides plenty of space to accommodate the roots. 

6. Fertilizer

To give your orchids a boost, it is recommended to use a fertilizer rich in phosphorus if you want to encourage flowering. Avoid fertilizers high in nitrogen, as these will promote the development of foliage and keikis instead of flowers.

For fully-established pink rock orchids, using a slow-release fertilizer would be more beneficial for a continuous nutrient supply without burning the roots. Feed your orchids during the growing seasons but avoid fertilizing during the colder months. Allowing your plants a resting period over winter will give them a head start for the next flowering season.

Dendrobium kingianum keikis and propagation

Keikis are the babies of an orchid plant. If you are planning to propagate your Dendrobium kingianum, then having a keiki would be desirable. Keep in mind, though, that the production of this baby orchid will likely be at the cost of the blooms, since the mother plant will have to focus its energy on nurturing the keiki. 

Additionally, the development of a keiki could sometimes mean the plant is in distress or dying. So, it all depends on your priorities – if you want your orchids to bloom, you might need to remove the keikis. You should also assess the condition of your plants to ensure that the keiki is a product of a healthy plant and not a dying plant.

To propagate your Dendrobium kingianum, the first step is to nurture the keiki until it grows about three or four roots and a few leaves. Keikis usually take about eight months to a year to grow roots, so patience is key! Sometimes, they might even produce leaves and flowers despite not having roots, and this is normal.

Once your keiki has grown its roots, it is time to separate the plantlet from the parent orchid. Carefully cut the keiki from the mother plant, leaving about one to two inches above and below the keiki’s node. Then plant your keiki in well-draining potting mix that contains bark, perlite, or charcoal. Remember not to place your baby orchids in areas with full and direct sunlight, as you want to protect their leaves from irreversible sun damage.

How big does Dendrobium kingianum get?

Dendrobium kingianum usually grows between six to 12 inches in size and is sometimes considered a weed in the orchid world due to its vigorous growth habit. The size of its flowers can vary between 0.6 to 1.6 inches, and the leaves reach one to four inches long and one inch wide.

Is Dendrobium kingianum fragrant?

Although the flowers of this Dendrobium species vary slightly in shade between pink and purple, they all share a delightful fragrance. The smell of the blooms is comparable to that of lilac, hyacinth, or honey. Unfortunately, the blooms do not last very long but the good news is that Dendrobium kingianum is a perennial so you can expect the plant to flower year after year.

How do you make Dendrobium kingianum bloom?

One thing that frustrates many newbie growers is that they cannot make their Dendrobium kingianum bloom. 

As with all other orchid species, pink rock orchids take time to produce flowers – approximately a year or two. If you do not see any flowers emerging from the stalk, it might be too early to expect blooms. Wait patiently and nurture your plants as advised, and all your hard work will hopefully be rewarded in the next growing season.

Conclusion

As with other orchid species, the care requirements for Dendrobium kingianum include proper sunlight, a well-draining and airy potting mix, correct watering, appropriate temperature and humidity levels, and the odd boost of fertilizer. Keep in mind that these plants might not show their lovely blooms in their first year of growth. But, with your patience and proper nurturing, your pink rock orchids are sure to reciprocate with abundant flowers when the time is right!

Image: istockphoto.com / weisschr

Crocosmias make a wonderful addition to any garden, thanks to their exotic and vivid blooms. But what if your crocosmias are not flowering at all?

This unfortunate situation might make you feel like your gardening efforts have been a failure, but do not worry! In this article, we have summarized the possible reasons your crocosmias are not blooming, as well as what you can do to correct these problems.

How to grow crocosmias

Crocosmia is a deciduous perennial with sword-shaped leaves and trumpet-shaped flowers that come in orange, red, or yellow. These brightly-colored crocosmia flowers are a favorite for landscape borders and flower beds, blooming from mid-summer to fall. Once the blooming period is over, their mid-green foliage becomes the center of attention, from fall to spring. 

Perhaps you are attracted to the exotic aesthetic of crocosmias and want to grow some in your garden. But, as with other ornamentals, the beauty of these blooms comes with certain requirements. Your crocosmias will want moderately fertile soil that is slightly moist and well-draining. The addition of mulch will also be beneficial for these plants to retain soil moisture, especially during the hot season. Mulch can also enrich the soil without the use of fertilizer.

Moisture is of utmost importance for these plants, so do not forget to water them whenever the soil starts to dry. However, make sure to avoid overwatering as this can damage the roots. During the cold months, limit your watering and consider adding mulch to protect the soil from freezing temperatures. 

Another factor to keep in mind is the amount of sunlight your crocosmias need. These beauties prefer to get a daily dose of full sunlight in order to flower vigorously. They can also survive well in partial shade, but may not grow and flower as healthily as those that receive lots of sunshine. To help your plants grow to their full potential, make sure to grow them in a sunny spot that faces east, south, or west.

If you want to grow your crocosmias in a flower bed, it is highly recommended to plant them in a group of 12. Crocosmias typically grow in clumps, and by grouping them you can achieve a great display of flowers and foliage during the summer. 

Some crocosmia cultivars can be invasive, especially as they become more established, and will compete for soil nutrients and water. For this reason, try to plant them about six to eight inches apart and at least 20 inches away from other plants. 

Lastly, make sure to keep your flower beds free from weeds, as they might interfere with your crocosmias’ rhizomes.

Why is my crocosmia not flowering?

1. Too much fertilizer

Overfertilizing is by far the most likely reason your crocosmias are not producing blooms. 

As you might know, fertilizer is essential for lush, healthy foliage. But this comes at the expense of flowers, especially if the fertilizer has a high nitrogen content. Your crocosmia will grow bushier and greener, but with few to no flowers. 

Additionally, crocosmias are not heavy feeders. In their natural habitat, these perennials grow in moderately fertile, well-draining soil. They are also known to survive and even bloom in poor rocky soils in South Africa. Hence, feeding them excessive amounts of fertilizer is almost unnecessary.

If you have overfertilized your crocosmias, it might be a little late to expect them to flower in the same year. But you can correct the issues to ensure that they produce their beautiful blossoms in the following year. Here is what you need to do:

• First, amend the soil around your plant by adding manure, compost, or leaf mold. These organic materials will not only enrich the soil but also improve aeration.

• Reduce your fertilizer if you want the plants to flower vigorously. Fertilizers, especially those high in nitrogen, are only beneficial for the leaves. Crocosmias generally do not need a lot of fertilizer to produce abundant flowers.

• Add mulch into the soil, especially during the hot summer months, to keep it moist.

• Do not be dismayed if you have applied too much fertilizer as your crocosmias will likely grow taller and bushier despite the reduced blooming. It is advised to cut them back six weeks before their expected flowering season to manage their size and promote branching. By the next growing season, you should see your plants produce healthier leaves and plenty of blooms.

2. Lack of sunlight

Their location and the amount of sunlight received by your crocosmias can greatly impact their ability to flower.

Crocosmias can grow in partial shade, but they flower best in full, direct sunlight. That said, exposing them to extreme heat for prolonged periods can burn their leaves. If you live in an area with a hot climate, make sure to plant your crocosmias in a cooler location with filtered sunlight. Do not place them anywhere too shady, though, as this will turn the leaves pale and discourage flowering.

Consider adding mulch to keep the soil cool and prevent excessive dryness, especially during the summer. Mulching helps reduce the amount of moisture lost via evaporation, so that you do not have to water your plants as frequently.

3. Water stress

Usually, crocosmias need to be watered thoroughly once a week. This will keep their soil slightly moist and create favorable conditions for flowering. 

Keep in mind, though, that your plants’ watering needs may vary depending on your local weather conditions. During the dry seasons, you may need to increase your watering a bit to keep your plants well-hydrated. Checking the soil regularly will also help you understand your plants’ moisture needs. A soil moisture probe is your best friend to prevent under- or overwatering, but if you don’t have one, feeling the top two inches of the soil with your finger also works.

Again, to prevent water stress, consider adding mulch to prevent the soil from drying too quickly, especially if you live in a hot area. 

4. Crocosmias do not flower in the first year

If, after carefully reviewing your plant care routine, you cannot seem to find any issues, then perhaps it is too early to expect flowers from your crocosmias. Check your calendar – when did you plant them? If the plants are less than a year old, you might need to wait until the next growing season to see their lovely flowers. 

Crocosmia plants do not necessarily produce flowers in their first year. They also need a bit of time to acclimatize to a new environment. So be patient and give your plants the time they need to bloom, especially if you bought them from a greenhouse or your local nursery. Your garden might have different conditions to those of their previous environment, and this can be stressful for them.

In general, crocosmias are not fussy when it comes to their plant care requirements. However, they do need at least a year to fully establish and adapt to their new home before they can flower abundantly.

In what month does crocosmia bloom?

Fully established crocosmias usually bloom from around July up to September; they will keep producing flowers throughout the summer. These perennials are greatly admired for their showy, brightly-colored flowers, which add a tropical vibe to any landscape. 

Crocosmia flowers grow on slender stems that are about two feet in length. Limit your pruning if you are expecting the plants to bloom; instead, cut back the flower stems in November, after the blooming season is over.

Do crocosmias flower every year?

Crocosmias are considered perennials in USDA zones five to nine, meaning that you can expect your plants to bloom year after year. 

As mentioned previously, though, crocosmias might not produce flowers during their first year of growth. Patience is key. Continue nurturing your plants until they become well-established, and you will be rewarded with spectacular blooms every year.

How do I get my crocosmias to bloom?

Growing crocosmias for the first time can be intimidating for an inexperienced grower. But, as you begin to better understand their growing requirements, you will realize that they are not that difficult to care for after all! Just remember these basics to succeed in growing your crocosmia flowers:

• Plant your crocosmias in areas with access to full sunlight.
• Keep your soil in check. Crocosmias bloom best if their soil is consistently moist but never soggy.
• You do not need to fertilize these plants. Crocosmias can grow happily just with some mulch.
• Use a well-draining compost. 
• Crocosmias can tolerate a soil pH between 6.5 to 7.5.
• Cut back the flower stems after your plants are done flowering. This will promote a new set of healthy flowers in the next season.

Additionally, it is best not to cut back the foliage during the fall. However, if the leaves have turned brown and your crocosmias look a bit untidy, you can gradually snip off some of the leaves and use them as mulch in the late fall. Mulching will help insulate the bulbs from freezing temperatures and keep the soil fertile, ensuring that your crocosmias are ready for vigorous growth in the next blooming season.

Conclusion

Crocosmia plants may not bloom for a variety of reasons, including a lack of soil moisture or inadequate sunlight. Overall, however, these plants are not fussy about their growing requirements – unlike many other flowering ornamentals. Hence, it should not be so difficult to fix the problem if your crocosmia is not flowering. 

Get your soil’s moisture level right, give your plants lots of sunlight, add mulch, and know the right time to prune. In most cases, these are all the basics you will ever need to help your crocosmias bloom abundantly. With proper care, your flower-bare crocosmia will surely bounce back with plenty of blooms next season!

Image: istockphoto.com / PAVEL IARUNICHEV

Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow is a popular evergreen subshrub loved for its variegated foliage and unique greenish flowers with tiny, colorful petals. This variety of euphorbia is also known as Euphorbia x martinii, or Martin’s spurge.

Euphorbias, in general, are considered tough and fairly easy to grow. However, certain undesirable growing conditions can make them vulnerable to fungal diseases, causing discoloration and damage to their foliage. If your Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow is dying, it is most likely due to the fungal species Rhizoctonia or Fusarium, or due to sunburn. 

Let us discuss how to detect these issues and what solutions are available to save your plant.

Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow turning brown and dying

Browning foliage and stems is a common sign of plant distress. There are several underlying issues that can induce this discoloration, as listed below:

1. Corking

Corking is a natural process in plants, wherein the outer layer of the plant’s skin or epidermis is replaced. The affected plant parts tend to display brown discoloration and thickened outer layers. 

It is generally undesirable for euphorbias to develop corking, but know that this condition is not a sign of disease or pest infestation. More often than not, it is a part of your euphorbia’s aging process and should not be a cause for serious concern. 

There is no treatment available to stop or prevent corking, and unfortunately the condition might alter your plant’s beautiful appearance. But give it enough time to heal and your lovely plant might be able to replace the damaged tissue.

2. Sunburn

Euphorbia comes in several stunning varieties, some of which have variegated white stripes while others have yellowish stripes on their bright green leaves. Rest assured, however, that no healthy euphorbia leaves, regardless of the variety, have brown spots or discolorations on them.

Brown spots on the leaves are typically signs of sunburn. Also known as leaf scorch or sunscald, sunburn is the negative result of abrupt exposure to full sunlight. 

So, if you are planning to move an indoor plant outside, or if you have just brought home a new plant from the store, remember that proper acclimatization is important to protect it from sudden light or temperature changes. The right way to go about it is to start by placing your euphorbia in a slightly brighter location for a few hours each day, and gradually increase its sunlight exposure over a few weeks. You can also use a shade of cloth or umbrella to protect your plant until it is ready to face the full sunlight.

3. Rhizoctonia disease

Rhizoctonia stem rot is most prevalent in euphorbias that are constantly exposed to moist and humid environments. The disease is caused by the soil-borne fungus Rhizoctonia solani, and causes stem lesions, root rot, and crown rot in infected plants. 

Hot temperatures ranging from 70 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit, combined with moderate moisture, are the most favorable conditions for this pathogen to thrive. Frequent misting, a lack of airflow, and close spacing between plants can soon result in brown webbing on the stems and open wounds on the plant.

The browning and limpness of the plant in the early stages of the disease are often mistaken for the signs of an underwatering problem. Without the proper diagnosis, an inexperienced gardener might react by watering the plant more, thereby causing further rotting and fungal growth. As the infection progresses, the brown lesions will become increasingly larger until the entire stem collapses.

Fungicide drenches are your best weapon to suppress or reduce the progression of Rhizoctonia disease. Applying solutions that contain bacillus bacterium, in conjunction with proper care and preventive measures, can go a long way to treating and preventing the incidence of Rhizoctonia. 

4. Fusarium rot

Similar to Rhizoctonia disease, Fusarium rot is another fungal infection that causes stem and root rot in euphorbias. Aside from brown discolorations and lesions, the affected plant will also wilt, drop its leaves prematurely, and possibly die.

There are several fungal pathogens that cause Fusarium disease, the most common ones being Fusarium solani and Fusarium oxysporum. These pathogens infect plants by entering through an open wound caused by pest infestation or physical damage. If you are not careful, the infection can quickly spread through contaminated soil and unsterilized gardening tools.

Your best chance of winning against Fusarium rot is by establishing proper gardening practices and hygiene. As with other fungal diseases, avoid overwatering as well as leaving the stems and foliage wet for long periods. Instead of misting, use a humidifier to improve the humidity in your indoor garden. 

Unfortunately, there are no known chemical fungicides that can eradicate these fungal pathogens.

5. Plant dormancy

The browning of euphorbia leaves does not always mean your plant is dying. It could also be that your plant has gone dormant for the winter season. In this case, it is simply reserving its energy to survive the harsh weather conditions. Most of its metabolic activities will come to a halt and the dormant plant will allow some of its leaves to brown.

Since dormancy is considered normal, there is nothing much you can do but wait for the mild weather to return. Limit your watering and avoid fertilizing your plant as the roots will be less likely to absorb and use all the nutrients. Once the cold months are over, your euphorbia should return to its former glory.

6. Normal aging

If your euphorbia has received all the right care and there are no apparent underlying issues that could be causing the browning leaves, then perhaps the discoloration is linked to the plant’s aging process. If this is the cause, the browning is more likely to occur on the older, lower leaves of the plant. Along with browning and yellowing leaves, you might also notice your euphorbia dropping a few leaves. In this case, the symptoms are considered normal and expected. 

Mature plants have indeterminate growth, meaning they will likely continue growing and producing new leaves for as long as the conditions are right for them. So, let the old leaves drop naturally and they will be soon replaced with new, healthier growth.

Other signs to look out for

A potentially dying plant will not only display brown leaves. Your Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow can show several other symptoms of distress, and it is critical to understand these so that you can pinpoint and correct any issues.

Check out the signs below, and from there you should be equipped to know when your lovely ornamental needs to be rescued:

1. Euphorbia leaves turning yellow

Yellowing leaves are often related to water stress. Aside from the unsightly discoloration, you might also notice your plant shriveling and wilting as a result of extreme dehydration. 

Watering your Ascot Rainbow roughly once a week is ideal to keep it hydrated. Watch the soil condition as well, especially during the hot and dry season, as you might need to increase watering at this time. You can use a soil probe to test the moisture level of the soil from time to time, to keep your watering in check.

Other factors that trigger yellowing are:

• Frost
• Poorly-draining soil or pot
• Too much fertilizer

2. Dropping and wilting leaves

Dropping and wilting leaves are another classic sign of an underwatered euphorbia. All plants need water to keep their stems and leaves turgid, so do not leave your euphorbia too dry for too long. When you water, do so thoroughly and deeply to keep the soil moist for several days. Just be careful not to overwater, though, as waterlogged soil can be bad for the roots and increase the risk of fungal infections.

3. Euphorbia not flowering

Euphorbias may not flower for a number of reasons, but this does not mean your plant is doomed. More often than not, the lack of flowers is linked to watering issues, lack of sunlight, or temperature stress. 

Hence, to encourage flowering, make sure that the right growing conditions are met. Euphorbias generally thrive in bright light – preferably about three to four hours of direct sunlight exposure each day. The soil must be well-draining and lightly moist (but never watery). Temperature-wise, most euphorbias are happy within the range of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

Lastly, fertilize your evergreens from spring through fall. Dilute the fertilizer to half-strength to prevent root burn.

How do you revive a dying euphorbia?

Reviving a dying Ascot Rainbow might seem an impossible mission. Often, it is easier to just discard the plant and start over with a new one.

But do not lose heart – rescuing a dying plant is often completely possible if the underlying issue is detected at an early stage. Time is of utmost importance and your quick response will go a long way to preventing further damage and reviving your euphorbia.

Here are some helpful tips to get your plant back to its healthy state:

• Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow is most often killed by fungal diseases such as root rot and stem rot. There is no quick fix when it comes to eradicating this kind of disease, but with patience and proper care your plant can recover. As mentioned previously, your best chance at fighting off the fungus is through the use of fungicides. Do your research well, as there are many fungicides available on the market.
• Provide your plant with the best care possible. That includes proper lighting, adequate watering, moderate fertilizer, correct temperature and humidity, and well-draining soil.
• Remember that the effectiveness of fungicides can only be maximized in conjunction with proper gardening practices. This includes sterilizing your gardening tools, proper spacing between plants, and not leaving their foliage wet overnight.
• Protect your plants from potential injuries, as open wounds create entry points for fungal pathogens.
• Avoid soil contact with your plants and containers as this could spread soil-borne fungi.

Conclusion

As with other ornamental plants, your Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow can be vulnerable to fungal infections if it is not properly nurtured. And, as the saying goes, prevention is better than cure. So do not wait for Rhizoctonia and Fusarium diseases to attack your plants. Follow proper gardening hygiene and establish preventative measures to keep your lovely evergreens healthy and thriving!

Image: istockphoto.com / John Caley

Finally, the orchid you have spent so long nurturing has produced a keiki! And now, you are anticipating the production of tiny new roots on this little offshoot.

Fast forward a short time and, despite your best care, your baby orchid is growing new leaves but still there is no signs of new roots. Why is that?

So, is it normal for an orchid keiki to have no roots? How long does it take for a keiki to grow roots? Let us find out!

How orchids produce offspring

Perhaps, just when you were about to prune the flower spikes off your orchid, you suddenly noticed tiny new leaves forming there. This should make you very happy, because it means your beautiful orchid is producing a baby. 

The new growth you are seeing is referred to as a keiki, which is a Hawaiian word for “baby” or “child”. Keikies are produced by mature orchids through the process of asexual propagation, resulting in an exact clone of the mother plant.

The orchids’ asexual reproduction is achieved in this instance through the accumulation of growth hormones at the plant’s node. Sometimes, growers actually induce the production of keikies by applying a concentrated growth hormone, called keiki paste, to the node of the flower spike.

Not all keikis, however, are produced through healthy growth and an abundance of growth hormones. Sometimes, orchids under extreme stress will produce keikis in an attempt to save their species. The mother plant will use all of its remaining energy to produce a beautiful flower and a keiki before it finally expires.

More often than not, it can be a bit challenging to know whether a keiki is the result of excess hormones or plant stress. So do not be too complacent – check for signs of issues in your orchids, as well as their growing conditions. Are your plants getting the appropriate temperature, humidity, sunlight, fertilizer, and watering? It is also important to check the potting medium. Orchids might have a large and devoted fan-base, but these beautiful blooms are known for being fussy and challenging to grow. 

Once you are confident that your plants are well-nurtured and growing healthily, then you can celebrate your new keiki.

No roots on orchid keiki – is it normal?

Newbie growers are understandably baffled if their keikis do not have any roots despite producing a few leaves. 

However, be reassured that keikis do, in fact, produce some roots. It might just take a long time for their roots to show up. When a keiki first develops on the mother plant, its growth is mainly focused on producing a few leaves. These leaves can grow up to four inches long, but despite this you might still not see any roots, and this is normal. 

Keikis grow roots at a very slow speed, and you might see well-developed leaves and blooms before any roots appear. You just need to be patient – your keikis will sprout roots when they are ready!

How long does an orchid keiki take to grow roots?

On average, a keiki takes about eight months to send out roots. Some might even take over a year! This is absolutely normal, as baby orchids tend to focus their energy on foliage before roots.

Keep in mind, though, that keikis’ roots will only grow for as long as the mother plant is actively growing, which is usually in the spring and summer seasons. Like most houseplants, orchids go through a dormant stage during winter, so you should not expect any root growth at this time. So, if you are wondering about your keiki’s roots, also check the parent plant to know if it is actively growing at the moment. One way to tell is the presence of active roots that look like tentacles along the plant’s stems.

How do I root my keiki orchid?

Nothing gives an orchid grower greater joy than to see their keikis finally growing a few roots. But the journey to this point is not always easy, since orchids are known to be tough to care for and can be unpredictable. Some gardeners might try misting, improving the lighting conditions, or even not watering the mother plant, just to induce the growth of roots on their baby orchids. Still, none of these is guaranteed to work.

Fortunately, there are a few tricks that have proved effective to hasten the growth of keiki roots. Consider trying the tips below to see if they work on your plants:

• Moisten a cotton ball or sphagnum moss and wrap it around the base of your orchid’s keiki. Secure the material using a rubber band. Check your keikies every now and then, and hydrate the base with a few drops of water whenever it starts to become dry. However, make sure not to overdo the watering to prevent rotting and fungal growth.

• Use an auxin-based rooting hormone, preferably in the form of seaweed or kelp extract, to encourage cell division and root growth. Add a small drop of the extract to the cotton ball or moss attached to the keiki’s base.

• Avoid using keiki paste if you are aiming for root growth. Keiki paste contains cytokinin hormone which is mainly used to stimulate shoot growth, rather than roots.

• Once the mother plant stops blooming, you can remove the flower spike and cut back about an inch from where the baby orchid has grown. Pruning after the flowering phase is over will help the parent orchid to focus its energy on the little keiki. 

• Lastly, keep in mind that patience is key when it comes to growing your keikis. Let the baby orchid grow healthily and happily and, in its own time, it will start putting out its roots.

When to separate a keiki from the parent orchid

An orchid keiki can be separated from its mother plant once it has grown a total of three inches of roots. This could mean three roots, each an inch long, or one single root with a length of three inches. Usually, this length can be reached in one to one-and-a-half years, starting from the keiki’s first growth.

Never remove the keiki from the parent plant too early, otherwise the baby orchid could die. The plantlet needs to have several leaves and strong roots so that it can survive on its own.

If you think your keiki is ready to be removed and repotted, follow these steps:

• Using a sterilized pair of cutters, cut the spike about an inch above and below where the keiki is attached. Carefully cut the tissue at the base of the plantlet. Do not twist the keiki with your fingers or you may damage it.

• After cutting the keiki from the parent, sprinkle the wound of both the keiki and the parent plant with cinnamon. This will help prevent fungal infections from developing on the open wounds.

• Soak the keiki roots in clean water for about ten minutes to help soften them before potting them.

• Place the new plant in a small pot, preferably about three inches wide. The pot should have drainage holes and not be too large for the keiki. If it is too big, it will take longer for the potting mix to dry after each watering, thus increasing the risk of root rot.

• Finally, fill the pot with a soil mix designed for orchids. Depending on the orchid variety, a potting mix made of vermiculite, sphagnum moss, perlite, and shredded bark should work wonders for your new plant.

Once your baby orchid is all set, make sure to protect it from harsh direct sunlight. Gradually introduce it to its new environment until it becomes well-acclimatized. You can slowly increase its light exposure once it starts showing signs of growth.

Keikis usually take about two to three years to produce their first flowers, sometimes over the course of a year, depending on the variety. Hence, patience is key!

Can an orchid keiki without roots be saved?

There are many instances when a keiki is separated from its mother plant before it has developed a few healthy roots. The reason could be due to an accident, physical damage, or the parent plant is simply too sick to support the plantlet. Sometimes, the parent plant has died before the keiki can grow its own roots.

If a parent plant is sick but has a chance of bouncing back, then removing the keiki is the best thing to do to save both parent and keiki. However, if the sick parent plant is not showing any healthy roots and leaves and its survival is unlikely, then only the baby orchid can be saved.

So, is there hope for an orchid keiki to survive without roots? The answer is yes, provided the plantlet has grown a few healthy leaves and is a few months old. However, caring for a fragile baby orchid with no roots involves intensive care. If you do not have the knowledge and experience, it may well die.

Caring for a rootless orchid keiki requires constant monitoring and adequate moisture around the base of the plant. Let it sit on moist sphagnum moss until it starts to grow roots, and remember that the moss must be damp at all times – but never watery, to prevent rotting. The “sphag and bag” method works, too. To do this, simply place your keiki in a bag of moist moss to encourage growth.

With proper care, your orchid keiki should start showing signs of growth after about a month.

Conclusion

Orchid keikis generally take a lot of time to produce roots. During their early stages of growth, the root system is not given top priority; instead, you will see the baby plants producing foliage and, sometimes, a few blooms, despite not having roots.

But do not worry – your keiki should send out roots at the right time, which is typically about a year. All you need to do is continue nurturing both the mother and baby plant until they are ready to be separated. 

Image: istockphoto.com / aLittleSilhouetto

Many gardeners the world over love clivias for their deep green foliage and vibrant, trumpet-shaped flowers, which make a great antidote to a lifeless indoor space.

When these tropical evergreens turn yellow, however, it can be worrying to say the least. This unsightly discoloration detracts from the beauty and vigor of the plants and, more often than not, is indicative of an underlying issue that needs correcting right away. Such issues include sunburn, root rot, leaf spot, and pest infestation.

Let us explore these issues one by one and learn how to help your clivia bounce back to life.

How to troubleshoot yellowing clivia leaves

Clivia leaves may turn yellow for numerous reasons. Before you panic, it is critical to understand your plants’ symptoms so that you can correctly diagnose the issue. 

Have a look below at the different patterns of leaf yellowing that may occur, to help you confirm the underlying issue:

1. Whole leaves turning yellow

Yellowing of the entire leaf is often a classic sign of sunburn. Clivias need moderate or partial sunlight to grow healthily; direct sunlight can be too harsh for their delicate leaves, particularly during the summer season. To correct this issue, all you have to do is relocate your plants to a shadier area. 

However, if your clivias are receiving the correct lighting levels and you cannot seem to find the cause of the yellowed leaves, then perhaps your plants have entered their dormancy period. At this point, they are taking a rest to survive the freezing winter temperatures, and you need not worry – they should bounce back to life as soon as the milder weather returns.

2. Edges or tips of leaves turning yellow

Root rot disease can cause yellow leaves, too – particularly on the tips or around the edges. Aside from the leaf discolorations, a plant with root rot might also struggle with dieback of the stems and foliage. Since rotten roots can compromise a plant’s nutrient uptake, your clivias will eventually lose their vigor and start falling over. 

Check the soil – does it look soggy? If so, there is a good chance you are dealing with root rot. Stop watering your plants for a couple of days to allow the soil to dry completely. You may also need to replant your clivia in fresh, well-draining soil to prevent the rot from progressing any further. While doing so, make sure to trim off any dead roots and apply a fungicide to eradicate the fungal pathogens.

Overwatering and poor drainage can both promote root rot disease. Keep in mind that clivias should only be watered about once a week – just enough to keep the soil moist but not watery. Increase this only if the soil dries up very quickly, such as when the weather is unusually hot and dry. Also avoid using compacted soil and pots without drainage holes.

3. Yellow spots on the leaves

Unsightly yellow or brown spots on the leaf surface can be caused by leaf spot disease or pest infestation. To make matters worse, these spots will grow over time if left untreated, eventually engulfing entire leaves until they die and fall off.

Leaf spot is very common among ornamental plants. The majority of cases are caused by fungal pathogens, while a few are linked to bacterial infections. These spots often look like brownish or dark rings that can enlarge and form lesions. Clivia plants affected with leaf spot disease can also develop yellow leaves that drop prematurely.

Pests like aphids and scale insects are destructive to almost any garden plant, including clivias. Aside from yellow leaves, the attacked plant may also display distorted growth, drooping leaves, and sticky brown spots or webbing on the leaves’ surface.

Both leaf spot disease and pest infestations can negatively impact the health of your plants. Once the underlying issue is confirmed, you will need to control the issue by applying the appropriate treatment.

For leaf spot, we recommend using fungicides formulated for houseplants. Organic solutions are also available if you do not like using synthetic chemicals. The most common remedy for fungal leaf spot is baking soda. To use, simply mix a half teaspoon of baking soda per gallon of water, and spray the mixture on the affected leaves.

For pest infestations, there are a variety of organic solutions available to kill the bugs without harming your plants. These include neem oil, horticultural oil, and insecticidal soap. If the infestation is small, you can quickly dislodge the pests from the leaves with a strong jet of water. Try to avoid using harsh pesticides unless the infestation is too severe, as these are toxic and can kill beneficial insects.

4. Older leaves at the bottom turn yellow

If your clivias are producing yellow leaves near the base of the plant, then it is likely due to normal aging. All plants go through this process. Eventually, the older leaves will die or shed, giving way to new growth. In this case, the yellowing of the leaves should not cause you any concern. Continue nurturing your clivias and prune them as needed, and your plants are sure to reciprocate your love and care with lush healthy growth.

Can yellow leaves be reversed?

Yellow leaves are generally a sign of plant stress or damage. Once the leaves lose their healthy green color, in most cases it cannot be restored. The plant will simply abandon the damaged leaf to focus its energy on new growth. 

However, it is possible for some leaves to return to green if the issue is related to nutrient deficiency and the appropriate fix is applied.

Yellow leaves are generally pruned or allowed to fall off so that younger leaves can start to grow. Just keep in mind that a few yellow leaves do not necessarily mean your clivias are doomed or dying. With the proper diagnosis, you should be able to address the underlying issue and return your clivias to their former verdant glory.

What to do when clivia leaves turn yellow

Time is of utmost importance when it comes to saving your plants from further damage. Here are a few steps you can take as soon as you notice your clivia leaves turning yellow:

• First, try to confirm whether the issue is related to overwatering or poor drainage. Assess the dryness or dampness of the soil using your finger or a soil moisture probe. From here, you should be able to correct your watering routine and save your plant from potential fungal diseases.
• Boost your plants’ nutrition by adding nitrogen-rich fertilizer to the soil. Make sure to fertilize only when the plants are actively growing, and avoid feeding them during their dormant season.
• Using a clean pair of pruning shears or scissors, prune away the yellowed leaves to promote new, healthy growth. Discard the damaged leaves and stems, and do so particularly carefully if the plants are infected with a fungal disease.

Conclusion

Yellowing clivia leaves are generally a sign of sunburn, overwatering, pest infestation, or fungal disease. It is important to identify the underlying issue so that you can apply the appropriate solution. 

Sometimes, the yellowing leaves could simply indicate that your plants are currently dormant, or they could be a part of the plants’ natural aging process. Both of these states are normal and hence should not cause serious concern. Nurture your plants as usual, and you will be rewarded with lush foliage and abundant flowers.

So be sure to familiarize yourself with the plant’s growing needs as well as the potential issues. It might take some time and patience but, at the end of the day, seeing your clivias grow and bloom beautifully will make everything worth the sacrifice.

Image: istockphoto.com / ByronOrtizA

If you are the proud owner of a honeysuckle plant, you surely look forward to seeing its spectacular blooms every spring! But things might not always go as expected, especially if your plant is not growing under the right conditions to promote flowering.

If you are wondering why your honeysuckle is not flowering, we might have the answer for you here. Plants that fail to bloom when they should are often over-pruned or are not getting adequate sunlight, water, or soil nutrients. Read on to learn how to correct these issues and boost your plant’s flowering in the next season.

In what month do honeysuckles bloom?

The most exciting part of growing honeysuckles is witnessing their lovely clusters of flowers bursting from their branches. 

Depending on the variety, honeysuckles typically bloom from June until September or October. Certain cultivars of this plant are classified according to their time of flowering – some can bloom in early spring, while others might flower in mid or late spring.

If you live in a warmer zone, however, then you are especially in luck, as your honeysuckle will likely bloom all year round. 

Why is my honeysuckle not flowering?

1. Pruning at the wrong time

Pruning your honeysuckle in winter or early spring will hinder its flowering process. 

Honeysuckles do not produce their flowers from new growth; these plants only bloom once they reach full maturity. Most varieties tend to flower on side shoots from the previous growing season. So, if you prune them too early – in spring, for example – you will also eliminate their flowers. 

While pruning your honeysuckle annually can be beneficial, pruning too heavily will only stimulate the growth of foliage at the expense of flowers. If your goal is to achieve vigorous blooms, it is best to limit or avoid cutting back the growth that will support the flowers in the next blooming season.

2. Lack of sunlight

Honeysuckles are sun-loving plants. In their natural habitat, the vining varieties tend to climb up trees or hedgerows to get the optimum levels of sunlight to thrive. If your honeysuckle is dropping leaves and failing to produce flowers, it is possibly receiving less light than it needs.

Honeysuckles that are grown in too much shade can produce significantly fewer flowers, and the plants may also die back. To achieve a good display of flowers, make sure you plant yours in a sunny location with moist soil. It will happily flower in partial sunlight, too. 

You may also consider trimming the branches of nearby trees that cast shade on your honeysuckle in the garden. Alternatively, you might need to transplant it to a brighter location. Whatever works best for you – just make sure that your plant is getting a good dose of sunshine daily to produce abundant flowers. 

3. Too much fertilizer

Honeysuckles thrive in soil that is rich in organic matter. While frequent applications of fertilizer can promote bushier growth of the foliage, too much fertilizer can also hinder the flowering process, especially if you are using a fertilizer high in nitrogen.

Excess nitrogen that has washed away from a nearby treated lawn or garden can also significantly affect the flowering of your plant. Unfortunately, once the fertilizer has been absorbed, it is probably too late – the flowers are unlikely to bloom and you will have to wait for the next growing season.

4. Lack of nutrients

While too much fertilizer can limit the flowering process, so can a lack of nutrients. In their native habitat, honeysuckles thrive in woodland soil where they receive a steady supply of nutrients from leaf litter and other organic matter. Hence, these conditions must be emulated to achieve the best display of flowers.

Enriching the soil with mulch and other organic fertilizers is especially important if your honeysuckle is grown in a pot, in sandy soil, or near other plants or trees that are competing for soil nutrients. The addition of organic matter can also help retain moisture and improve soil aeration, both of which are important factors for flowering.

For best results, consider using a slow-release fertilizer like Miracle-Gro granules, so that the nutrients are available for longer without burning the honeysuckle’s roots. Also apply mulch around the base of the plant to guarantee an abundance of flowers in the next season.

5. Dry soil

Moist soil is a very important requirement if you want to succeed in growing a happily-flowering honeysuckle. As mentioned previously, these flowering vines and shrubs do best in consistently damp (but never watery) soil, just like in their native habitat. 

However, several conditions can quickly turn the soil bone-dry. If your honeysuckle is moisture-deprived, it could be due to one of the following reasons:

• Using garden soil that is too stony or sandy. Loose soil structures do not hold water very well and might lead to excessive dryness, especially during the hotter seasons.
• Planting your honeysuckle near other plants or trees that compete for moisture.
• Exposing the soil to too much sunlight, the heat of which can quickly evaporate the soil’s moisture and dry out the plant’s roots. The stress caused to your plant by these conditions can hinder its flower production.
• Growing your honeysuckle in a pot. By saying this, it does not mean you cannot succeed in growing this plant in containers. Just keep in mind, though, that most pots are designed to be well-draining. This means that potted honeysuckles will have higher watering demands than those planted in the ground. Additionally, consider using a larger pot to accommodate more soil and thus more moisture for the roots.

6. Not fully established

If you have taken all the right steps to nurture your honeysuckle and still it has failed to bloom, it could be that your plant has not yet reached the flowering stage of its life. 

Honeysuckles generally take about two to three years to become fully established. Once they reach maturity and all of their required growing conditions are met, only then will you witness their spectacular and prolific flowers.

Why are my honeysuckle’s flowers falling off?

We all love honeysuckle for its fragrant, tubular flowers, so it goes without saying that we do not want to lose these hard-earned blooms when they arrive!

There are two common reasons your honeysuckle flowers may be dropping – drought stress and pest infestation.

Drought stress can be a result of underwatering or using sandy soil. So, if you notice the flower buds falling off your honeysuckle, do check your watering habits as well as the type of soil your plant is growing in. 

Too much sun exposure can also lead to increased transpiration in plants, causing their much-needed moisture to evaporate too quickly. If this is the case, you might need to consider relocating your plant to a cooler spot with filtered sunlight, particularly on hot summer days.

Pest infestation is another possible culprit behind your plant’s bud or flower loss. Insects like aphids and thrips feed on the plant’s leaves and petals until they become dry and disfigured. Eventually, the plant will lose its vigor, drop its flowers, and stop producing new leaves and buds. 

Nobody wants to deal with pests – they are destructive not only for your honeysuckle, but for the entire garden. Thankfully, there are organic solutions available to help you deal with infestations, including neem oil and insecticidal soaps. As much as possible, avoid using harsh chemicals as these solutions can also harm the beneficial pollinators in your garden.

How to get honeysuckles to bloom

Honeysuckles can only produce abundant flowers when their ideal growing conditions have been met. With that in mind, it is helpful to understand your plant’s native habitat – a bit of research will go a long way toward caring for your beautiful perennial. 

Here are some growing tips you can follow to ensure abundant flowers on your honeysuckle in the next blooming season:

• Fertilize your honeysuckle at least once a year, preferably in early spring or before new growth begins. There are many types of fertilizer you can use for this plant, so do some research, use your best judgment and follow the prescribed dosage. One option is an all-purpose fertilizer with a balanced NPK ratio, such as a 20-20-20 or 16-16-16.

• Do not let the soil become too dry before watering your plant again. Drought stress can hinder the flowering process, so make sure to keep your honeysuckle well-hydrated at all times. Make it a habit to check the soil regularly using your finger or a soil probe to know the best time to water your plant.

• Honeysuckles come in different varieties, each with its own unique characteristics and growth habits. Some cultivars might also bloom in a different season, or when certain growing conditions are met. With that in mind, make sure to choose one that is suited to your garden or decor purposes.  

Conclusion

If your honeysuckle is not blooming, it probably has something to do with hard pruning, drought stress, or soil nutrient issues. If you are a beginner gardener, it may be a good idea to do some thorough research to get a better understanding of your plant’s basic care requirements. Learn the optimal growing conditions for your chosen honeysuckle variety, and when the time comes you will be rewarded with an abundance of beautiful blooms!

Image: istockphoto.com / Ildar Imashev