Audrey Woods

Growing a jalapeno pepper for the first time? Then you might be wondering when is the right time to pick the fruits. It’s understandable that you may be a bit unsure about how to tell when your peppers are ripe enough to harvest.

Jalapenos are generally best picked just as they start to turn red. However, these peppers can also be harvested while they are still green, as long as the fruits are of an adequate size and firmness. At the end of the day, it all really depends on how spicy you want your jalapenos to be!

Keep reading this article to learn more about when to pick your jalapenos. Hopefully, we can answer all your questions so you can harvest your peppers just at the right time!

Why grow a jalapeno?

Jalapeno plants are a type of Capsicum annuum, the same species that includes bell peppers, habaneros, and cayenne peppers. The spicy flavor of jalapenos is most often found in Mexican dishes and hot, spicy appetizers. 

If you are wondering just how hot jalapenos are, they are surprisingly not as super-hot as serrano, cayenne, and habanero peppers. Jalapeno peppers have a heat range of about 2500 – 8000 Scoville heat units, making them a great choice for those who prefer a mild level of spiciness.

On top of their delicious flavor and a slight kick of heat, jalapenos are also rich in vitamins and antioxidants, such as vitamins A and C, potassium, folate, and carotene. Furthermore, they are a natural source of capsaicin, a compound commonly used as a natural pain reliever. These are some of the reasons that so many gardeners love growing this crop in their backyard. 

And, if you are still not convinced, here is more great news: jalapeno plants are super easy to grow! As long as you can provide their required growing climate, you should be able to grow these peppers without a fuss. Jalapenos can be grown in your garden soil or in a pot. Whichever you choose, just make sure your plants receive at least eight hours of full sunlight per day. Jalapenos are happiest in temperatures between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. They are not very tolerant of cold and are quite vulnerable to frost damage, especially when the temperatures reach below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Jalapenos can grow a bit slowly in their first few weeks, so it is recommended to grow the seedling indoors. But, once the plants are ready, you can transfer them outdoors. Do not forget to water them regularly and feed them with mushroom compost for faster growth. Soon, your patience and hard work will be rewarded when you harvest plenty of delicious jalapeno peppers after a few months!

When to pick a jalapeno pepper

Harvesting your jalapenos for the first time can be such a rewarding experience – but do not get too excited yet! There are a few important things you need to know to ensure that you harvest the fruits without causing any harm to your plants. Harvesting at the right time also ensures that you pick the tastiest jalapenos instead of the unripe ones. 

Here are a few tips for picking your peppers:

1. Make sure the plant has reached maturity

The best time to harvest jalapeno fruits is when the plant has reached maturity. Depending on the variety, some jalapenos are ready for harvest around 60 days from seed, while others will need about 90 days to mature. Make sure to keep a note on your calendar so you can remember the date that you planted your peppers! This will help give you a rough estimate of when your jalapenos are ready for harvest.

Of course, there are several external factors that can also affect the time your plants take to mature. This might include the growing conditions, pests, watering schedule, and other things. So, aside from the date, also keep these factors in check as they can all affect the growth rate of your plants! 

2. Check the color of the pepper

The color of your jalapeno fruits can tell how hot and sweet they will be! During the ripening process, peppers like jalapenos and their cousins can turn bright green, dark green, black, and then finally red. Some jalapenos also develop hues that are between green and red.

You can harvest your jalapenos according to how hot you want them to be. For example, if you prefer your peppers with a milder taste for salads, it is best to pick them while they are still green. Watch out for striations on their skin, too, as this is indicative that the fruits are growing too quickly, making them a bit hotter and sweeter.

However, if you want to harvest the spiciest fruits, you will need to wait a bit longer until your peppers turn red. 

3. Wait until they reach full-grown size

Another good indicator that your jalapenos are ready is when the fruits reach full-grown size. This means they are best picked when they are about three to four inches long. Although some peppers can be harvested before they reach their ideal size, they might not taste as good as you expected.

4. Know the right texture and firmness

Jalapenos are ready to harvest when they feel firm to the touch. Gently squeeze the fruit, and if the skin feels too hard, then it means the pepper needs more time to grow and ripen. If the skin gives slightly, then the jalapeno is ready to be picked.

Best time of day to harvest jalapeno peppers

So, you have seen that your jalapeno fruits are ready for harvest – but do you know that there are better and worse times of the day to pick them up?

Gardening aficionados highly recommend harvesting jalapenos in the morning, before the sun hits them, to achieve the best quality fruits. Be careful, though, not to pick them too early in the morning, or there is a chance that the plant will still be wet. Let the morning dew dry a little bit to prevent the spread of fungal or bacterial pathogens. 

In the evening is when jalapenos can regain the moisture lost during the day, so evening is not the best time for harvest.

Hence, pick your jalapenos when they are dry, but before it starts getting too hot outside. Picking at the right time will make your produce crisper, sweeter, juicier, and longer-lasting in your kitchen.

How do you pick jalapenos off the plant?

Harvesting jalapenos is a very simple process! There are two common ways of doing it – you can pull the fruits off by hand, or cut the stem with a sharp pair of scissors or pruning shears.

If you want to pick your jalapenos by hand, here is what you need to do: Gently pull at the stem of the fruit with one hand while the other hand holds the branch. Remember to pick the jalapeno in an upwards direction. Ideally, the pepper should pop off cleanly at the stem. Never twist or tear the fruits off the plant to avoid damaging the fruits and stems.

If you are using scissors, make sure to cut the stems carefully, leaving a short part of the stem attached to the fruit. Use sharp scissors or pruning shears to make a clean cut and avoid damaging the plant’s branches and leaves.

Lastly, do not forget to wear gloves! Peppers can sometimes split open while you pick them, leaving some of the capsaicin oil on your hands. Avoid touching sensitive areas like the eyes or lips after picking the fruit, as they will likely burn. 

Do jalapenos get hotter when red?

If you are a first-time jalapeno grower, you might be wondering whether jalapeno fruits get hotter once they turn red?

The answer is yes! Jalapenos, like most peppers, become spicier as they mature to a red color, thanks to capsaicin, which is a compound produced inside the fruit while it grows. Most of the capsaicin chemical is concentrated in the seeds, which is why they are hotter than the flesh.

Another thing to remember is that jalapenos can continue to turn red after being harvested, depending on how ripe they were when you picked them. If your peppers are slightly red when you pick them, then they will likely continue to ripen and turn redder on your kitchen counter. However, if they are light green and unripe when picked, they will most likely never ripen or redden.

So, if you want red jalapenos, it is best to wait for the fruits to start to ripen and turn red while still attached to the plant. Let them mature throughout the growing season to harvest the sweetest and spiciest produce. However, if the winter months are approaching, it is best to harvest all of your jalapenos, whether they are ripe or underripe.  

When should you not pick a jalapeno?

There are some instances when jalapenos should not be harvested for consumption. 

The first case is if you notice the fruits starting to rot while still on the plant. Symptoms usually include water-soaked lesions on the fruit’s surface that progress into a slimy, deteriorating texture. You might also notice the produce beginning to emit a foul smell. 

Generally, soft rot starts when bacteria penetrate the fruit. This can be caused by insects or sun-scald. If you are not careful, these pathogens can easily spread during harvest or when the plants are wet (either due to rain or morning dew). Hence, it is best to discard any fruits produced by the affected pepper plant.

Another case is if the peppers have been eaten by bugs. Although some fruits can still be safely eaten, depending on the pests you have in your garden, it is best to remove the affected fruits individually and discard them.

Conclusion

Picking your jalapenos at the right time is important for several reasons. You should pick the peppers when they have reached the right size and color, as these factors are indicators of the flavor and heat level of the fruit. The redder they are, the more spicy and sweet they will be. Harvesting your jalapenos at the right time of the day can also prevent the spread of pathogens that cause soft rot.

Hopefully, this article has given you all the information you need before your first jalapeno harvest. Happy planting!

Image: istockphoto.com / Visual Art Agency

Ferns are lush, non-flowering plants that can bring a lovely, tropical vibe to your porch, terrace or outdoor garden, whether planted in pots, hanging baskets, or in the ground. Surprisingly, these plants are also super hardy and can thrive outside without too much of a problem.

But – how often should you water your ferns if they are outside? If you are planning to grow your ferns outdoors and are clueless about their watering needs, then read on!

Do ferns grow well outside?

Although ferns are well known as indoor houseplants, most varieties can also flourish outdoors. These hardy plants can survive the harsh outdoor temperatures, whether it is the scorching heat of summer or the freezing temperatures over winter.

Hence, it is perfectly fine to grow your ferns outdoors, as long as you are growing a hardy variety like the Boston fern, and as long as you provide them with the right growing conditions. Ferns, in general, do best in moist and shady areas. For faster, healthier growth, make sure to place your plants in a spot where the temperature is between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. 

How often should you water ferns outside?

When it comes to watering, outdoor-grown ferns are generally less demanding than their indoor counterparts. However, they are used to growing in areas with lots of humidity and rainfall, so you will need to ensure that they receive adequate water to thrive and remain verdant.

In general, ferns need about one to two gallons of water per week, which is approximately equivalent to a once-weekly watering. Keep in mind, though, that your watering routine should be adjusted according to your local climate. For example, you might need to water your plants every two to three days during the hot summer season. 

The type of fern you are growing will also dictate how much water it needs. Some fern varieties, like the Boston and staghorn ferns, need regular moisture, while those like the asparagus fern and the western sword fern do not transpire as much water due to their very thin leaves. Thus, they do not need watering as frequently as the other fern varieties. 

Finally, the type of growing medium can also influence how often you need to water your ferns. Some people grow ferns as part of a garden landscape, while the others plant them in smaller containers or pots. We have explained below how each of these growing environments affects your watering routine:

1. Fern planted in garden soil

Establishing the correct watering routines for your ferns is essential for healthy roots and foliage. However, the frequency of watering will be greatly affected by the type of soil in which the plants are grown. In the case of ferns planted in regular garden soil, they might not need as much watering as those grown in containers. That is because these plants can establish a more extensive root system that grows deep into the ground, so they can find moisture at a deeper level than a container-grown plant.

2. Fern planted in a pot

Ferns planted in pots might need more watering as the soil in a pot tends to dry faster than that in a garden bed. As a general rule, potted ferns should be watered at least once a week; however, this might also depend on the type of pot you have used. 

For example, if you are using terracotta pots, the soil will probably dry out faster as terracotta is a porous material. That means you will need to increase the watering frequency to keep your plants hydrated.

On the other hand, using plastic pots can have the opposite effect. Plastic pots tend to retain more moisture, making them an ideal choice if you live in a dry region. This way, you will not need to give your ferns as much water as those in terracotta pots, as the soil will stay moist for longer.

Other factors, such as the size of the pot, outside temperature, season, and type of soil might also affect the watering needs of your ferns. The only sure-fire way to know for sure when they need watering is to check the soil from time to time. The top layer of soil should be dry to the touch before you water your plants again.

3. Fern planted in a hanging basket

Similar to pots, the soil in hanging baskets also tends to dry out quite quickly. The roots of your ferns are exposed to the air all day, increasing the moisture evaporation rate, especially on hot, sunny days. 

To keep a fern well-hydrated in a hanging basket, it is recommended to water it every two to three days. Once again, make sure that the top layer of soil is dry before watering. You can insert your finger into the topsoil to know whether your plant needs a drink or not.

Other factors to consider

Aside from the specific fern variety and the growing medium, several external factors need to be considered when watering your outdoor ferns. These factors affect how much water your fern will need at a certain time or in a certain location. As these factors can change, there might be times when you need to adjust your watering schedule instead of blindly adhering to the same routine.

These are the main things you need to consider when watering your outdoor ferns:

1. Weather

Changes in the weather can affect the water requirements of your ferns, so be mindful of the current conditions and adjust your routine accordingly. On rainy days, you do not need to water your ferns so much. On the other hand, make sure to keep them well hydrated if there is no rain for several days or weeks.

2. Sunlight exposure

While most fern varieties enjoy a bit of full sunlight, the scorching heat of the sun can also dry out the soil pretty fast! That means your sun-exposed ferns will need more water to maintain healthy roots and leaves.

3. Season

Ferns are generally hardy perennials that can survive the harsh outdoor conditions, including the winter weather. Some varieties also go dormant for a period when the cooler months arrive, which means you will need to reduce the frequency of your watering when the freezing temperatures set in.

4. Spacing

Just like most plants, ferns that are planted close to one another in the same soil will have to compete for the available water resources. This would mean watering your plants more frequently to keep them all hydrated.

5. Container size and drainage holes

If you are growing your ferns in containers, keep in mind that the size and drainage holes of your containers can affect their water-holding capacity. The larger the container, the more soil it holds, and hence the more water it will hold, too. In this case, you should avoid watering your ferns too frequently. A small container, on the other hand, will dry out faster and need watering more often.

The drainage holes also matter when choosing a container – they are a non-negotiable criterion! These holes help the excess water escape from the soil and thus prevent root rot. 

6. Temperature and humidity

Temperature and humidity both play a role when it comes to your plants’ water requirements. Higher temperatures can put your ferns under heat stress, while an excessively humid environment can promote the growth of bacteria and mold. Hence, you should adjust your watering depending on both temperature and humidity to avoid any issues.

Signs of watering problems in ferns

Most fern varieties love moisture. Nevertheless, too much water can have dangerous consequences for your plants. Conversely, if you are a busy plant parent and often forget to water your ferns, this can have detrimental effects, too!

Both overwatering and underwatering are common mistakes among novice gardeners, and striking the right balance might seem overwhelming at first. But do not worry – there are some early tell-tale signs that will alert you when you need to adjust your watering habits. Check out these symptoms so that you can save your ferns from incorrect watering before it is too late. 

1. Underwatering problems in ferns

We are all guilty of underwatering our plants from time to time. Underwatering can be caused by complete neglect, not giving the plant enough water when you do water it, or incorrect watering in relation to the season. 

Fortunately, it is easier to save an underwatered fern than an overwatered one, provided you catch the problem in time. So, how do you know when your fern needs water? These are the common signs:

• The soil around the fern feels bone dry to the touch.
• The leaves appear droopy.
• The leaves are wilting, curling, and turning brown.
• The leaf edges are becoming dry and crispy.

2. Overwatering problems in ferns

Overwatering is the leading cause of root damage in plants, including ferns. That is because, in simple terms, too much water can drown a plant. When the soil is waterlogged over an extended period, it deprives the roots of oxygen which will eventually kill the entire plant. 

Overwatering can come about due to insufficient drainage, watering too frequently without considering the plant size and season, or overestimating the watering needs of the plant.

Some of the key signs that your ferns are overwatered are as follows:

• Your ferns’ leaves are turning yellow.
• The leaves are wilting – a symptom shared with underwatering.
• The soil appears wet and saturated.
• The leaves and stems look soft or squishy.
• After some time, your plants might start to show signs of fungal infection.

How long can ferns go without water?

As mentioned, ferns are hardy plants that can survive outdoor conditions – and even drought conditions, up to a point.

Depending on the variety, ferns can generally survive about two to three weeks without water. However, some ferns that are drought-sensitive might only make it for a few days.

Thus, it is best to be on the safe side and water your ferns regularly to avoid any drought-related stress.

How do you take care of an outdoor fern?

Although caring for your outdoor ferns requires fairly minimal effort, you do still need to keep an eye on your tropical greens to ensure that they are growing happily. These tips should help you care for your ferns outside:

• Water your ferns correctly. Make sure that the soil is neither waterlogged nor bone dry, as both of these conditions can be detrimental to the health of your plants!
• Trim any damaged stems or fronds regularly to keep your ferns in top shape. Regular pruning will also prevent the spread of any potential plant diseases and promote bushier growth of the leaves.
• Keep your fertilizer application in check. Sometimes, too much fertilizer can affect the water uptake of your ferns.
• Use a well-draining pot and soil. Like most plants, ferns can fall victim to root rot if you leave them in waterlogged soil for too long.
• Consider repotting your plant if it seems to have outgrown its container. This will allow more space for its roots to spread.

Conclusion

One of the keys to successfully growing your ferns outside is proper watering – and a rigid watering schedule might not always do the trick! Several environmental factors can affect the moisture needs of your plants, including the fern variety, local weather, soil type, and many others. So, make sure to adjust your watering routine in line with these factors, and with the right care you can enjoy your outdoor ferns for years to come!

Image: istockphoto.com / Adrian Teoh

So, you wake up one morning, all excited to harvest your first tomatoes, only to find burrows, holes in the leaves, and bare stems! The garden you have tended so carefully for months has been completely ruined in the blink of an eye.

Pests are unfortunately part of our ecosystem. And, while some might just steal a few bites from your precious tomatoes, others can destroy the entire plant, forcing you to start all over again! These freeloaders come in the form of wild animals, worms, insects, or birds. 

Some of these pests only show up in the evening to attack your favorite crops. They might chew holes in the leaves, stems and fruit, or tear down the entire garden in a single night. Others may steal your fruit in broad daylight, right before your eyes. In fact, even your own pets can sometimes mess up your tomato garden.

Unfortunately, some of these unwelcome visitors can be more challenging than others to eradicate. 

Let us walk through, one by one, what may be eating your tomatoes and how to keep them off your garden!

What’s eating my tomatoes at night?

Certain pests are more likely to ravage your garden at night, so that you are welcomed by unsightly damage when you wake up in the morning. Although both animals and bugs can destroy your plants in the dark, we have summarized below a list of worms, crawling bugs, and insects that can harm your greens and fruits.

1. Worms

Worms often hide in the ground or on the underside of your tomato leaves and only come out at night to feast on your plants. The most common of these are hornworms and cutworms.

Hornworms are common tomato pests with horn-like tails. These caterpillars are about three inches long, yet they can still be challenging to spot since they have a green body that is camouflaged by the leaves.

Cutworms, on the other hand, are moth caterpillars that grow about an inch long. Their bodies are fat and colored gray or black. These pests hide in the upper layers of the soil while the sun is up, only coming out at night to feed on your plants.

Whether you have hornworms or cutworms in the garden, know that both of these pests can defoliate and destroy an entire plant! Hence, it is important to manage them as soon as you can before they multiply rapidly and take over your garden.

2. Insects

While most insects are beneficial pollinators, some can destroy your plants. Leaf-cutting bees are the most common of these, and they create half-moon cuts on your tomato leaves. The good news is that they will not harm the fruits. so you can still enjoy your tomatoes at harvest time. 

However, if you do not like the leaves damaged and you see their eggs on your plants, then cover your plants to keep them safe. Hopefully, these nuisances will avoid visiting your garden and find another place to lay their eggs.

3. Snails and slugs

Snails and slugs are slimy creatures that can cause extensive damage to your tomatoes and other plants. They love hiding in cool, moist areas such as in mulch or under the shade of pots. Both these pests leave irregularly-shaped holes on the leaves, and can also feed on the ripening fruits of your tomato plants. However, if you are not aware of their presence, you might confuse their damage for that caused by other pests. To know whether your plants are infested with snails and slugs, look for slimy mucous trails on and around the plants.

Animals that eat your tomato plants

Some animals love nothing better than some free tomatoes, and we have listed some of the most common suspects below:

1. Birds

Our little feathered friends are often the culprits when it comes to ravaged tomato gardens. A few birds will not hesitate to feast on your delicious, ripe tomatoes, especially if you have set up a bird feeder near your greens. 

Birds, in general, love visiting gardens for fresh worms, spiders, caterpillars, aphids, and mosquitoes, and these visits can be beneficial as they help keep the bugs in check. However, the birds can also take advantage of the produce in your garden while visiting. Thus, it is important to keep an eye on your daily garden visitors to ensure that your ripe tomatoes reach your kitchen! 

Some of the common birds that love pecking on tomatoes are crows, cardinals, blue jays, mockingbirds, and blackbirds.

2. Deer

Deer will happily feed on a variety of crops, shrubs, nuts, leaves, and fungi. But do you know that they also love eating tomatoes? These animals can travel great distances just to find food and, given the opportunity, they will not hesitate to grab a few tomatoes from your garden for their dinner. 

Usually, these animals wreak garden havoc during the evening or early morning, munching their way through your flowers, shrubs, and vegetables. Fortunately, however, there are safe and humane ways you can prevent them from feasting on your produce, and we will discuss these further down.

3. Small rodents

If you notice golf ball-sized holes in your garden, then you probably have rodent visitors eating your plants while you are not looking! Voles, for example, are opportunists that dig and live in an underground tunnel system. They have long, prominent front teeth which they use to dig holes and chew through the roots of your garden vegetables like tomatoes, carrots, beans, and others. 

Unfortunately, these little animals can be problematic for your garden if you cannot chase them away soon enough. Not only will they feed on the fruits of your tomato plants; they will probably damage the entire plant, causing you a lot of frustration and heartbreak!

4. Squirrels

Squirrels might look adorable and friendly, but that is only until they start feasting on your tomatoes while staring directly into your eyes. Yes – these cuties will not hesitate to climb your fence and vines to get a taste of your garden produce! 

Unfortunately, for gardeners, squirrels are everywhere. And, while it can be challenging to keep them off your garden for good, there are kind ways to prevent them from harvesting your tomatoes. 

5. Groundhogs

Also known as woodchucks or whistle pigs, groundhogs definitely love invading gardens! Whether you are growing tomatoes, lettuce, carrots, or any other crop, these vegetarians can happily consume your entire garden in less than 24 hours! Some signs that groundhogs have eaten your tomatoes include the presence of deep burrow entrances, teeth marks on the fruits, and tracks on the soil showing clawed toes. 

6. Rabbits

Other adorable pests that can eat their way through a garden are rabbits. These furry creatures love nightshade plants like peppers, potatoes, and – you guessed it – tomatoes! That said, they can also happily and quickly eat almost any vegetables you happen to be growing, be it lettuce, broccoli, herbs or even flowers! Surprisingly, they have quite a voracious appetite, especially during mating season, so make sure that you are ready with your scare tactics and repellents to keep them away from your garden.

7. Chickens

If you are raising chickens at home, you should keep an eye on them if they roam freely around your garden. Although chickens mainly consume worms, they might still peck at your ripe tomatoes and other vegetables, causing the loss of some of your fruits. While they will most likely avoid the leaves and flowers, tomato fruits are highly nutritious for your free-range birds. So, consider fencing off your tomato plants to prevent your chickens from stealing the fruits!

8. Raccoons

If you notice distinctive, hand-like footprints in your garden soil, then you likely have raccoons ravaging your tomato plants at night.

Raccoons are omnivores that love visiting gardens for free treats. They eat any fruit and vegetables they can find, and are also fond of both ripe and green tomatoes. Unfortunately, these pests can quickly dig under or climb over your fences, making it difficult to keep them out of your yard.

9. Stray cats

Yep, even hungry stray cats might occasionally eat your tomatoes behind your back!

However, cats are less likely to be the culprits when your tomatoes go missing, especially during spring and summer when they would rather hunt other prey like rodents or mice. Additionally, most parts of the tomato plant are toxic to cats, except for the ripe red tomatoes themselves, so chances are they will avoid the plants completely. Still, their feces and urine can contaminate your vegetable garden, so it is best to keep strange cats out of your yard.

10. Family dogs

If you have dogs roaming freely around your garden, there is a good chance they might mess with your plants. They might play boisterously near the vegetable garden, or even chomp on the fruits and leaves. This is why it is a good idea to keep a constant eye on your furry companions!

How do I know what is eating my tomato plants?

The only way to know what is eating your tomatoes, especially at night, is to look for certain obvious signs. You might notice traces of claw marks in the garden soil, slimy trails around your plants, burrows or holes in the ground, or the specific type of damage done to your fruits. 

If you have the extra cash, you could consider getting a night vision camera to check who is stealing your tomatoes while you sleep. Or, instead of watching your garden constantly, we can recommend a trail camera to help you monitor your property day and night.

How to protect your tomatoes

Depending on the culprit, there are several tactics you can use to protect your garden without hurting your unwelcome guests. Here are some of the humane ways to keep garden pests off your precious tomatoes:

• Cover your tomato plants with garden netting or aluminum screening to stop birds from pecking at the fruits.
• Pick your tomatoes early, before they start turning red. Most pests prefer red, ripe tomatoes, so it would be safest to harvest the fruits early and let them ripen on your kitchen countertop instead.
• Put fake predators at the corner of your garden to scare off birds and animals. Some even come with solar-powered lights that can effectively deter invaders.
• Use motion-activated sprinklers to keep wild animals from getting near your tomatoes. You can also use motion-activated lights and loud noises (if your garden is far from your home and other neighbors) to scare off animals.
• Install an electric fence to scare the animals a bit when they try to access your garden. 
• Install a tomato cage with a mesh top to protect your plants.
• Install a fence around your garden, preferably extending a few inches underground to prevent burrowing animals from digging under it. The fence should also be high enough – at least six feet – to prevent larger animals from jumping over.
• Keep your garden clear of piles of mulch and dead leaves, as these can be a favorite hiding place for certain pests.
• Create a decoy garden where you can leave some crops for animals to eat.
• Use repellents to control snails and slugs. Your options include coffee grounds, egg shells, and slug tapes.
• Use herbs like basil and dill to discourage hornworms from coming near your plants.
• Use plant collars and diatomaceous earth on your tomatoes to deter cutworms and their larvae.
• Spend time in your garden and hand-pick any worms you see on the plants. You can also invite beneficial insects like ladybugs and braconid wasps to eat the worms and eggs.

Conclusion

It can be heartbreaking to see the tomatoes that you watered, pruned, and cared for over months, destroyed by pests in just a day! If you are regularly traumatized by worms, insects, and animals ravaging your garden, then hopefully you have found the necessary solutions in this guide. Knowing how to deal appropriately with these unwelcome visitors will ensure that you can enjoy the fruits of your labor yourself, rather than letting someone (or something) enjoy them first!

Image: istockphoto.com / Angelique Nijssen

Pussy willows are a popular and attractive decor element that can add to the atmosphere of any occasion! Whether you are after an interesting visual effect to celebrate Easter, the holiday season, or a wedding event, the addition of fresh or dried willow branches is sure to make for a dramatic centerpiece! 

The secret to creating wonderful art out of willow branches lies in proper storage and preservation. So, if you want to learn how to preserve willow branches this spring for your own decor, this guide is for you!

Common uses of willow branches

The sky is the limit when it comes to the varied uses for willow trees. In their natural habitat, these trees provide shelter and food for native wildlife. In the garden, they can serve as a living fence or barrier to divide different areas. Even willow bark can be useful to humans since it contains salicin, an active ingredient used in aspirin that naturally relieves pain and inflammation.

Willow branches, on the other hand, are most popular as decorative items. The unique and attractive patterns they make can turn a boring space into something extraordinary. Most often you will find willow branches sold in florist shops or craft stores, such as this FeiLix brand from Amazon. That is because they are so widely used in arts and craft projects, whether they are fresh, dried, or even artificial. 

For festive events like weddings or Christmas holidays, you can use the dried branches as garlands or beautiful centerpieces for your dining table. Dried willow branches give your room a natural and elegant look that will impress friends and visitors. You can even use the dried, curled branches as picture frames, or to accent your floral arrangements!

If you like the idea of a unique, three-dimensional centerpiece in your living room, you can use dried willow branches for that, too! Since they usually come in different sizes and shapes, you can arrange the branches to create spirals or patterns – just let your creativity run wild!

If you are into crafts, willow branches can be used for your weaving or basketry projects. You can also weave the dried branches into mats and vases. The thicker branches can be reserved for structural or sculptural projects, too. Whatever type of art interests you, willow branches can always be included in the recipe – it just comes down to your own imagination.

Thankfully, you do not need to spend money on willow branches if you know how to preserve them. You can harvest them quite easily, since they are available in so many places, such as on a nearby riverbank or roadside. There are several ways to preserve these branches to make them last longer, depending on how you plan to use them. All of these methods are discussed more in the next sections.

How to preserve willow branches for decorations

Willow branches are an attractive and versatile material to use for crafts and decorative projects, and they are also super easy to work with. Cut willow branches can last for weeks, as long as they are kept dry. If they are kept in water, the branches might start to grow roots or develop mold. The latter may also happen if the branches are stored in damp areas.

These steps should give you some ideas on how to make willow branches last longer as decor inside your home:

1. Gather your tools 

First, make sure you have all the tools you need before going out to find willow branches to use for your projects. Always have a sharp knife or pair of scissors ready to cut the branches according to your preferred size and shape. Also, prepare some wood glue and string or thick twine, so you can easily tie the branches.

2. Harvest good quality willow branches

As mentioned before, willow trees can be found everywhere, although you are most likely to find them in wetter areas. Using your sharp knife or scissors, gently cut the branches to your desired length. Try to make sure they are all about the same size so you can dry them evenly later on.

3. Soak your willow branches in water

Willow branches can easily become dry and brittle after they are harvested. To keep them in tip-top shape, they should be soaked in water for 24 hours per foot. So, for example, if your willow branches are four feet long, then you need to soak them for about four days. This will ensure that the branches have absorbed enough water before you use them for your crafts.

Another great tip is to avoid exposing your soaked willows to direct sunlight. Cover your container until your branches are ready. If you are living in an area with hot and humid weather, you might need to change the willow water occasionally to prevent the branches from rotting and developing a stinky smell. 

4. Drain and dry the willow branches

After giving your foraged willows a good soak, remove them from the water and rinse them carefully. Let them stand in an upright position to allow the excess water to drip off. Now that the bark has absorbed enough moisture, it will be easier to shape the branches according to your preferences.

Let your willow branches dry outside on a sunny day. It should take about two weeks to air-dry the branches before they are ready to use.

5. Apply a waterproof sealant

Once your willow branches are dry, spray them with a waterproof sealant or polyurethane varnish. By doing this, you can preserve the branches and keep insects from getting in. Waterproof sealants will also increase the strength of the branches, prevent cracks, and mitigate other waterborne damages.

Let the sprayed willow branches dry completely for a day before using them in your projects. If you have any leftovers, you can store them in bundles by tying them with string or twine. Hang them in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. You can re-soak the stored branches if you plan to use them in the future – just avoid doing it frequently. Also, keep an eye on them to prevent molds and insects from settling in.

How to preserve willow branches for floral arrangements

Looking for beautiful, DIY elements for your special occasion? Then you can use willow branches to add a natural touch to your flower arrangements!

Preserving willow branches for floral arrangements is almost the same as preparing them for decorations. Here are some tips to ensure your willow branches are in the best shape before using them to this end:

• For the best quality branches, it is best to cut your willow in early spring or late winter. This will prevent any milky sap from running out from the tree.
• Make sure the branches are free of any leaves. Use a sharp knife to remove the leaves and bark.
• Soak the willow branches in water for at least 24 hours.
• Take the branches out of the water and let them dry for a few hours.
• Once they are dry, arrange them in a vase with your chosen flowers, according to your liking.

How to preserve willow branches with glycerin

Another great way to preserve willow branches is by using glycerin. Through the process of osmosis, soaking the branches in a glycerin solution will replace their moisture content. This will keep your willows looking fresh and in great shape. 

Follow these steps to preserve your willow branches using glycerin solution:

1. First, create your glycerin solution. The recipe requires a mixture of one part glycerin with two parts water. For example, if you are using 200 milliliters of water, you should add 100 milliliters of glycerin.
2. Carefully stir the mixture using a stick. It should begin to look cloudy, but do not worry – it will clear once the solution is thoroughly mixed.
3. Pour the glycerin mixture into another container and add latex paint. Mix thoroughly until the two are well combined. 
4. Apply the latex paint and glycerin mixture to your dried willow branches. If you have a large container, you can also submerge the branches into the mixture.
5. Allow the branches to absorb the solution for about three days. You can also add food coloring to the mixture to enhance the color of the branches.

How to preserve willow branches in resin

Resin is an excellent substance to use if you want to create durable castings from your willow branches. All you need is resin, water, a silicone mold, and a bit of isopropyl alcohol for cleaning. 

Before creating the casting, make sure that your willow branches are completely dry to prevent rotting. One way to do this is to use silica gel to suck the moisture from the branches.

These steps should help you achieve amazing resin art with your willow branches:

• Clean your silicone mold using alcohol. Make sure that it is completely free of dust and dirt.
• Combine one part resin with two parts water and mix thoroughly.
• Add the mixture into your silicone mold. Using a blowtorch, pop any bubbles in the resin mixture to ensure a smooth finish.
• Layer your willows into the mold according to your liking.
• Let the willows and resin dry in the mold overnight.

Conclusion

Creating decorative items using willow branches can be a fun thing to do with family members, especially when spring is in the air! Thankfully, you do not need to buy willows if you know how to preserve them yourself. Just make sure to clear the branches of leaves, bark, dirt, and pests before using them for your crafts. When done correctly, your natural willow decor items are sure to be a head-turner when visitors arrive!

Image: istockphoto.com / AndreimLazar

Parsley is a favorite herb among gardeners because it is so versatile and easy to grow. However, harvesting its flavorful leaves requires great care, to avoid damaging the plant and to ensure continuous growth. 

This guide will explain how to harvest parsley without killing the plant so that you can enjoy a consistent supply of fresh herbs throughout the year.

Why grow parsley?

Parsley has a well-earned reputation as a garnishing herb. Known botanically as Petroselinum crispum, this hardy biennial belongs to the Apiaceae family, which means parsley is a close cousin to carrots, dill, and celery. It has been a popular herb for centuries and was used by ancient Greeks and Romans to garnish and add flavor to their dishes.

Parsley comes in two main varieties – flat-leaf parsley and curly parsley. 

The flat-leaf parsley, or Italian parsley, has flat leaves with serrated edges. This variety is loved for its strong flavor and glossy texture. Curly parsley, or French parsley, on the other hand, is known for its darker, curly leaves and slightly bitter taste. Although curly parsley is mainly used as a garnish, it can also be used as a flavor enhancer in soups and stews.

Parsley is not just your ordinary herb! Aside from garnishing your salads, it is incredibly good for you, too. This Mediterranean herb is rich in vitamins and antioxidants that have a lot of impressive health benefits. 

Another important parsley fact that you might be missing out on is that it is known to be a great companion plant. When allowed to flower, this flavorful herb can attract pollinators like wasps and butterflies. This means that, when planted together with certain vegetables, parsley can make them grow better. Aside from attracting beneficial insects, it can also repel pests, help improve soil nutrients and encourage faster growth of the plants around it.

Now that you know why parsley is such a delightful herb to have, you might be considering adding this plant to your backyard garden. Whether you want to expand your herb collection or you simply love the incredible taste of parsley, there are many dos and don’ts that you should know in order to grow it healthily and harvest it correctly.

Best time to harvest parsley

Parsley takes about 70 to 90 days to grow to maturity, although it can be harvested already at a younger stage. The rule of thumb is to wait for the plant to reach about six or seven inches tall before harvesting. You should also make sure that every single stem has more than three clusters of leaves. If not, your parsley is not ready to harvest.

Parsley usually starts getting bushy from the middle, as this is where the new growth forms. If you want to have a consistent supply of fresh parsley year-round, avoid harvesting if you do not see plenty of new growth from the middle of the plant.

Tips on how to harvest parsley without killing the plant

Harvesting your garden herbs can be both an exciting and a rewarding experience! However, not knowing the proper way to harvest your parsley can kill it. We all want our herbs to grow abundantly after a harvest, so if you want to enjoy your parsley for the entire harvest season, follow these tips:

1. Harvest during the first growth cycle

If you are harvesting parsley for its flavorful leaves, it is best to harvest the younger plants before they flower. Mature or older plants are best harvested if you want the seeds.

2. Do not cut the middle stalks

Since parsley grows from the middle, the ones in the inner circle are the younger leaves while the ones near the outside are the older parts. If you only need a small amount of the herb for your dish, it is best to harvest the outer stems of the plant, leaving the inner stems in the middle. 

When harvesting, make sure to keep about a half to two-thirds of the plant intact to avoid damage. This will encourage new growth after the harvest.

3. Cut from the base of the stalk

To harvest a large amount of parsley, you should cut the entire stem from the base using a sharp pair of scissors. Trimming your parsley plant this way will also stimulate the growth of new leaves and stems, making it healthier and bushier.

When pruning the plant, remember to cut the mature stalks from the bottom. If you cut only the top leafy portion, the remaining foliage will turn brown. It is also not advisable to pluck individual leaves, as this will likely damage the plant and will not give you a good yield.

4. Let your plant rest after the harvest

After harvesting, leave your parsley plant to recover for two to three weeks. Water it sufficiently, especially during summer, and feed it with a water-soluble fertilizer. Once you notice new stems and leaves emerging, your parsley is ready for another harvest.

How to harvest parsley for seeds

If you want to harvest the seeds, remember that parsley plants do not produce seeds until their second growth cycle. The first growth cycle is usually the best time to harvest as many leaves as possible because, during the second growth year, the leaves produced will not be as tasty as in the first year. Another reason is that the plant has grown deeper and more established roots after the first growth year.

Hence, you need to wait a year to harvest high-quality parsley seeds. Before doing so, make sure that the weaker parts of the plant have been trimmed off. This will allow room for new growth and prevent unwelcome pests from settling onto the dying leaves and stems. 

Once your seeds are ready, you can harvest them by cutting the stem below the seed head. Make sure to use a sharp pair of scissors or a knife to cut the stem. You can also pinch the plant’s stem using your thumb and index finger, but do this carefully to avoid damaging the plant.

During the harvest, avoid shaking the seed head so that the seeds do not fall off and go to waste. Allow the seeds to dry in a paper bag, and once dry, shake the bag so that the seeds separate easily from the head. If some of the younger seeds remain stuck on the head, allow them to ripen under the sun for two to three days. Make sure to protect the seeds from birds and small animals while keeping them as dry as possible.

Tips for growing and harvesting parsley

1. Harvest your parsley before winter

Like most plants, hard winter frost can easily damage the leaves of your parsley and turn them brown. If your parsley does die, it might grow back again during spring and summer. However, to ensure that you have a consistent supply of fresh leaves, make sure to move your plant indoors when winter comes. It is also best to harvest the leaves before the first frost as you can no longer get fresh green leaves once the plant enters dormancy.

2. Provide lots of light and water

While parsley plants are somewhat forgiving, they do crave lots of light and water. That said, make sure that the topsoil is dry to the touch before your next watering, or you risk overwatering and causing root rot. If you are growing your parsley indoors, make sure it still has access to sunlight for at least six hours per day, preferably near a south-facing window.  

3. Keep harvesting for continuous growth

Parsley grows best when trimmed regularly. The more you cut the stalks, the more it will grow new stems and leaves. However, you should avoid cutting the inner stems in the center as this is where the younger parts are. Focus on the mature stalks on the outer edges of the plant, and cut the stems from the base near the soil.

You should continue harvesting your parsley until the second growth cycle when it starts to grow flowers and seeds.

Tips for storing parsley

Growing your own parsley can leave you sitting with an excess amount of leaves – but you do not have to use all your parsley at once! There are many ways you can store the fresh leaves so you can reserve them for later use.

The best way is to store your newly harvested parsley in the refrigerator or freezer. Simply wrap the leaves in a damp paper cloth and let them sit in the refrigerator for up to two days. You can also place parsley sprigs in a container with water to keep them fresh for seven days inside your fridge.

Alternatively, you can store your parsley in the freezer for several months. To preserve its freshness and flavor, we suggest chopping up the leaves, adding them to ice cube trays, and filling these with water. Once you are ready to use them, simply defrost the ice cubes and drain the water. The only downside of this method is that freezing will not keep the leaves crisp.

Drying your parsley is another option if you want a year-round supply of this herb. This method is simple – just hang the parsley sprigs upside down in a dry, warm, and well-ventilated room. After two weeks, the leaves should be completely dry. Crumble the dried leaves and store them in an airtight container to have them on hand for your cooking needs. 

Conclusion

Parsley is more than just a garnish – this amazing herb is also useful for enhancing the flavor of salads and other dishes. Aside from its culinary uses, it is also very healthy to consume. No wonder so many growers fancy having their own fresh parsley supply in their backyard!

Despite being a hardy biennial, parsley can also be quite fragile. Thus, you need to harvest its leaves carefully to avoid killing the whole plant. Having read this guide, you should now have some idea of how to do this, so that you can enjoy a continuous supply of your favorite herb!

Image: istockphoto.com / AndreimLazar

Wondering why your plants are not growing well, despite you giving them generous amounts of mushroom compost? Then you may be growing them in the wrong soil conditions. In fact, the addition of mushroom compost might even be making things worse!

Some plants naturally prefer an acidic environment for optimal growth. For example, many deciduous trees and evergreens like magnolias, blueberries, willows, and Rhododendrons love growing in acidic soil – and adding mushroom compost will turn the soil alkaline. This higher pH level will not help these plants thrive, and might even kill them in the long run.

We have compiled a short list of common plants that do not like mushroom compost. However, this list is not exhaustive, so make sure to do your own research before adding mushroom compost to your garden!

What is mushroom compost?

You have probably heard a lot of gardeners swear by the benefits of mushroom compost. But what is it? And how does it benefit many garden plants?

Mushroom compost is made up of organic materials like corn cobs, hay, hulls, horse manure, peat moss, and various other ingredients. This type of compost is usually used by mushroom growers as a slow-release fertilizer. 

Depending on the brand, the ingredients of this compost might vary slightly. Generally, it requires around three to four weeks to decompose before being sold in bags. Many gardening and landscape suppliers sell mushroom compost since it is popularly used as a soil amendment for gardens and container plants. Mushroom compost is also used as a mulch to enhance the soil quality in vegetable and ornamental gardens.

Aside from the nutrients, it contains, mushroom compost also improves garden soil through its moisture retention capabilities. This means you can decrease your watering frequency while your plants still grow healthily. The only downside of this type of compost is that it can increase the salt level in the soil, which can cause dehydration and compromise yield quality. And, as previously mentioned, it also increases the soil’s alkalinity, which is really bad for acid-loving plants. 

Why some plants do not like mushroom compost

Some plants do not like mushroom compost because of its high alkalinity. It has the ability to neutralize the acid content in the soil, and unfortunately, a lot of fruit bushes and ericaceous plants prefer moderately to highly acidic soil conditions. If you apply mushroom compost while growing these types of plants, your gardening efforts are less likely to succeed as the plants will not thrive in such an alkaline environment.

Additionally, using mushroom compost can increase the concentration of salt in the soil. This means that a lot of the moisture will be absorbed by the soil, leaving less water available for the plants. Hence, with increased salinity, your plants will also suffer from root dehydration and water stress.

Ericaceous or acid-loving plants must therefore not be given mushroom compost and should be planted in soil with a pH below 7. If you are not sure about the pH level of your garden soil, you can purchase a pH soil tester such as the Kensizer or Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit. If your soil is alkaline, you can add soil amendments like sulfur, ericaceous compost, a pine needle mulch, leaf mold, and acidifying liquid feeds to make it more acidic. 

10 Plants that do not like mushroom compost

Although mushroom compost is nutrient-dense and beneficial for many gardens, not all plants love it! This is mostly true for ericaceous plants, which do much better in an acidic environment. If you are not sure whether or not your garden plants will benefit from your homemade organic mushroom compost, then do check our list below. Hopefully, you will find the answers you are looking for!

1. Azalea

Azaleas are a type of flowering shrub that thrives in well-draining, acidic soil. If planted in alkaline soil, they will starve to death! Azaleas need a soil pH of about 5.5 to 6.2 to grow healthily and maintain their bushy foliage. A soil rich in mushroom compost will turn them yellow and kill them over a period of time. 

So, if you are growing an azalea plant, it is best to use acidic, loamy soil. Instead of adding mushroom compost, use ericaceous compost to achieve the right soil pH for this plant.

2. Berries

Berries also love acidic soil. Whether you are growing strawberries, blueberries, or any other types of berry, make sure that they are planted in soil with the ideal pH range. For example, blueberries require a pH between 4.0 and 5.3, while strawberries need about 5.5 to 6.5 to thrive. Instead of mushroom compost, you can use a generous amount of leaf mold or peat moss to achieve the desired soil acidity.

3. Salvia

Salvia plants, otherwise known as sage plants, are members of the mint family that bloom with colorful flowers. Although they can be easily cultivated in regular garden soil, these plants prefer moderately acidic, dry soils with a pH range between 5.5 and 6.5. To make the soil more acidic, you can add chelated iron, soil sulfur, or aluminum sulfate. Do not leave your salvia in waterlogged soil, as it will likely die from root damage.

4. Geranium

Geranium, also known as cranesbill, is a perennial shrub that deserves a spot in your hanging baskets or flower beds. Geraniums are loved by many gardeners for their colorful flowers that come in shades of pink, red, white, violet, apricot, and yellow. 

These ornamental plants are easy to grow and do not require mushroom compost to bloom. Keep the soil pH between 6.0 and 6.5, and use slow-release fertilizer or vermicompost instead to stimulate flowering.

5. Juniper

Juniper is an evergreen shrub that grows best in acidic soil, preferably between pH 5.0 and 7.0. This plant is highly forgiving and will probably flourish even in poor soil, but is best grown in nutrient-rich soil. You can give it a boost with either homemade or commercial compost. However, just avoid mushroom compost as this will not be very beneficial. As long as your growing medium is well-draining and provides good aeration, your juniper should happily thrive without serious issues.

6. Lupine

Lupine is an attractive flowering plant that can grow up to four feet under favorable conditions. One of its growing requirements is moist, well-draining, loose soil. Although it can thrive in highly acidic soil, this tall, spiky flower grows best in a neutral or slightly acidic medium. 

Lupines also do not require a lot of fertilizer, as too much can increase leaf growth at the expense of flower production. However, if your growing medium is slightly alkaline, then applying an acidifying fertilizer will be beneficial. 

7. Gardenia

Gardenia, also known as Cape jasmine, is an evergreen praised for its dark, glossy leaves and strongly scented white flowers. If you have fallen in love with its beauty and want to grow one in your garden, then you should know that it loves acidic soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Hence, it is best to avoid mushroom compost if you want to grow this beautiful flowering plant to its full potential.

Gardenias also need lots of space to avoid root competition. You can add perlite or pumice to the soil as well, to improve its drainage. Adding mulch like chopped wood or pine straw has proved helpful to increase moisture, boost soil nutrients, and prevent weed growth.

8. Heather

Heather, also called Scotch heather, is another evergreen flowering shrub that prefers an acidic environment. This classic garden flower loves composted bracken or rotten leaf mold as a nutrient source. If you want to see its flowers bloom beautifully, we highly recommend feeding it with a slow-release fertilizer and keeping it in an area that gets lots of sunlight. 

Remember that this plant can be highly tolerant of poor, rocky soil, provided the soil is acidic – preferably around 6.5 or below. If your garden soil is neutral or slightly alkaline, you can increase the acidity by adding damp peat moss. Avoid using mushroom compost as this will make it alkaline.

9. Camellia

Also known as the queen of the winter flowers or ‘rose of winter, camellia flowers are highly sought-after for their lush blooms and thick, glossy foliage. These plants are also known as tea plants since they are harvested and used for caffeinated teas. The great thing about these beauties is that they are not very high-maintenance plants. As long as you provide them with an adequate growing environment, including neutral or slightly acidic soil, they will thrive and bloom!

Adding mushroom compost can impede the growth of your camellia, as it will increase the salt in the soil and make it more alkaline. Instead, try to keep the soil within a pH range of 5.5 to 6.5 and slightly moist. Add composted bracken, pine needles, or leaf mold to make the soil organically rich in nutrients. 

10. Magnolia

Magnolias are a genus of flowering trees and shrubs that produce large, fragrant flowers that can be white, purple, yellow, or pink, depending on the species. Due to these unique, star-shaped flowers, they are a landscaping favorite among many growers.

If you want to grow magnolias in your own backyard, you need to make sure that the soil pH is between 5.5 and 6.5. Thus, you should avoid mushroom compost that will increase the soil’s alkalinity. Although magnolias are sufficiently adaptable to grow in clay or sandy soils, they are best grown in well-draining, moist soils to achieve the best blooms.

Conclusion

Mushroom compost is rich in organic matter and nutrients that support the healthy growth of your greens. However, not all plants like mushrooms compost since it can increase both the alkalinity and the salinity of the soil. If you are growing acid-loving plants, it is best to avoid mushroom compost and use other soil amendments to enrich your soil.

Image: istockphoto.com / Lilylian12

So, you are super excited to grow your own vegetables in a hydroponic system! But here’s the thing: you are still unsure as to which growing medium is best to achieve a healthy garden.

Clay pebbles and perlite are two of the most widely used growing substrates for hydroponic systems. Unlike soil, these materials keep your garden free from any soil-borne diseases. They are also cleaner and more economical to use, since you can reuse both of them. 

However, each growing medium still has its pros and cons, depending on the type of hydroponic system you are building. 

So, let us do a quick clay pebbles versus perlite comparison, to help you understand which of these two growing media will work best for you.

The importance of hydroponic media

If you are new to hydroponics, you might think that any rock would be suitable to support your growing plants. But in reality, it is not! Choosing the right hydroponic medium is critical for a number of reasons.

Traditionally, we use soil to cultivate our greens, and it is from this soil that plants normally get their nutrients to grow and bloom. As their roots and stems begin to expand, plants will also need the soil to support their growing height and weight. 

In hydroponics, however, it is a different story. With this method, you are growing plants in a soilless medium. So how do hydroponically-grown plants get the nutrients and support they need to keep them upright? This is where soilless hydroponic media come into play. 

The role of hydroponic media is to help support the plant’s weight and keep it upright while it grows. It also provides the roots with access to nutrients and oxygen. These materials are usually light, coarse, and porous, and do not affect the chemical composition of the nutrient solution.

One of the benefits of using soilless media is that you do not need to worry about soil-borne diseases and pests. This means that your greens can grow faster, healthier, and produce better quality fruits.

Knowing how important hydroponic media are when it comes to growing your plants, the next question would be this – which one is best? If you search online, you will find enough different growing media to overwhelm a newbie gardener! There are also different types of hydroponic systems, each requiring a specific growing medium. But, for now, you do not need to know these advanced hydroponic techniques if you are just starting out.

The most common growing media, and the ones we recommend for beginners, are clay pebbles and perlite. These two materials each have their pros and cons, depending on your chosen growing system. Some hydroponics enthusiasts even have their own recipes using these two growing media to achieve better results!

Clay pebbles versus perlite – which is better?

Both the clay pebbles and the perlite are excellent choices when setting up a hydroponic garden. In fact, these growing media are also popular in commercial hydroponic systems. However, if you are setting up a home hydroponic system, you might be wondering which one is better for you. 

The best growing medium to use depends on the type of hydroponic system you plan to build. For example, perlite is best used together with another medium, like coconut fiber. Clay pebbles, on the other hand, can also be used as a standalone medium but have a low water holding capacity. If you are setting up an ebb and flow-type system, it is best to top your expanded clay pebbles with 50 percent coco and 50 percent perlite.

Another important thing to consider is the type of plants you want to grow. The growing medium must be capable of physically supporting your plants while providing a healthy growing environment. It should also allow sufficient water flow so that the plant roots can quickly absorb nutrients.

Other factors to look for when choosing a growing medium:

• The size of your hydroponic garden
• Water retention capability
• Aeration properties
• Cation exchange capacity (CEC), air-filled porosity (AFP), and water holding capacity (WHC)
• Sanitation and reusability
• Weight of the material
• Cost

Before committing to either clay pebbles or perlite, you need to figure out which one is best for your chosen hydroponic setup. Let us dive