Audrey Woods

Growing a jalapeno pepper for the first time? Then you might be wondering when is the right time to pick the fruits. It’s understandable that you may be a bit unsure about how to tell when your peppers are ripe enough to harvest.

Jalapenos are generally best picked just as they start to turn red. However, these peppers can also be harvested while they are still green, as long as the fruits are of an adequate size and firmness. At the end of the day, it all really depends on how spicy you want your jalapenos to be!

Keep reading this article to learn more about when to pick your jalapenos. Hopefully, we can answer all your questions so you can harvest your peppers just at the right time!

Why grow a jalapeno?

Jalapeno plants are a type of Capsicum annuum, the same species that includes bell peppers, habaneros, and cayenne peppers. The spicy flavor of jalapenos is most often found in Mexican dishes and hot, spicy appetizers. 

If you are wondering just how hot jalapenos are, they are surprisingly not as super-hot as serrano, cayenne, and habanero peppers. Jalapeno peppers have a heat range of about 2500 – 8000 Scoville heat units, making them a great choice for those who prefer a mild level of spiciness.

On top of their delicious flavor and a slight kick of heat, jalapenos are also rich in vitamins and antioxidants, such as vitamins A and C, potassium, folate, and carotene. Furthermore, they are a natural source of capsaicin, a compound commonly used as a natural pain reliever. These are some of the reasons that so many gardeners love growing this crop in their backyard. 

And, if you are still not convinced, here is more great news: jalapeno plants are super easy to grow! As long as you can provide their required growing climate, you should be able to grow these peppers without a fuss. Jalapenos can be grown in your garden soil or in a pot. Whichever you choose, just make sure your plants receive at least eight hours of full sunlight per day. Jalapenos are happiest in temperatures between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. They are not very tolerant of cold and are quite vulnerable to frost damage, especially when the temperatures reach below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

Jalapenos can grow a bit slowly in their first few weeks, so it is recommended to grow the seedling indoors. But, once the plants are ready, you can transfer them outdoors. Do not forget to water them regularly and feed them with mushroom compost for faster growth. Soon, your patience and hard work will be rewarded when you harvest plenty of delicious jalapeno peppers after a few months!

When to pick a jalapeno pepper

Harvesting your jalapenos for the first time can be such a rewarding experience – but do not get too excited yet! There are a few important things you need to know to ensure that you harvest the fruits without causing any harm to your plants. Harvesting at the right time also ensures that you pick the tastiest jalapenos instead of the unripe ones. 

Here are a few tips for picking your peppers:

1. Make sure the plant has reached maturity

The best time to harvest jalapeno fruits is when the plant has reached maturity. Depending on the variety, some jalapenos are ready for harvest around 60 days from seed, while others will need about 90 days to mature. Make sure to keep a note on your calendar so you can remember the date that you planted your peppers! This will help give you a rough estimate of when your jalapenos are ready for harvest.

Of course, there are several external factors that can also affect the time your plants take to mature. This might include the growing conditions, pests, watering schedule, and other things. So, aside from the date, also keep these factors in check as they can all affect the growth rate of your plants! 

2. Check the color of the pepper

The color of your jalapeno fruits can tell how hot and sweet they will be! During the ripening process, peppers like jalapenos and their cousins can turn bright green, dark green, black, and then finally red. Some jalapenos also develop hues that are between green and red.

You can harvest your jalapenos according to how hot you want them to be. For example, if you prefer your peppers with a milder taste for salads, it is best to pick them while they are still green. Watch out for striations on their skin, too, as this is indicative that the fruits are growing too quickly, making them a bit hotter and sweeter.

However, if you want to harvest the spiciest fruits, you will need to wait a bit longer until your peppers turn red. 

3. Wait until they reach full-grown size

Another good indicator that your jalapenos are ready is when the fruits reach full-grown size. This means they are best picked when they are about three to four inches long. Although some peppers can be harvested before they reach their ideal size, they might not taste as good as you expected.

4. Know the right texture and firmness

Jalapenos are ready to harvest when they feel firm to the touch. Gently squeeze the fruit, and if the skin feels too hard, then it means the pepper needs more time to grow and ripen. If the skin gives slightly, then the jalapeno is ready to be picked.

Best time of day to harvest jalapeno peppers

So, you have seen that your jalapeno fruits are ready for harvest – but do you know that there are better and worse times of the day to pick them up?

Gardening aficionados highly recommend harvesting jalapenos in the morning, before the sun hits them, to achieve the best quality fruits. Be careful, though, not to pick them too early in the morning, or there is a chance that the plant will still be wet. Let the morning dew dry a little bit to prevent the spread of fungal or bacterial pathogens. 

In the evening is when jalapenos can regain the moisture lost during the day, so evening is not the best time for harvest.

Hence, pick your jalapenos when they are dry, but before it starts getting too hot outside. Picking at the right time will make your produce crisper, sweeter, juicier, and longer-lasting in your kitchen.

How do you pick jalapenos off the plant?

Harvesting jalapenos is a very simple process! There are two common ways of doing it – you can pull the fruits off by hand, or cut the stem with a sharp pair of scissors or pruning shears.

If you want to pick your jalapenos by hand, here is what you need to do: Gently pull at the stem of the fruit with one hand while the other hand holds the branch. Remember to pick the jalapeno in an upwards direction. Ideally, the pepper should pop off cleanly at the stem. Never twist or tear the fruits off the plant to avoid damaging the fruits and stems.

If you are using scissors, make sure to cut the stems carefully, leaving a short part of the stem attached to the fruit. Use sharp scissors or pruning shears to make a clean cut and avoid damaging the plant’s branches and leaves.

Lastly, do not forget to wear gloves! Peppers can sometimes split open while you pick them, leaving some of the capsaicin oil on your hands. Avoid touching sensitive areas like the eyes or lips after picking the fruit, as they will likely burn. 

Do jalapenos get hotter when red?

If you are a first-time jalapeno grower, you might be wondering whether jalapeno fruits get hotter once they turn red?

The answer is yes! Jalapenos, like most peppers, become spicier as they mature to a red color, thanks to capsaicin, which is a compound produced inside the fruit while it grows. Most of the capsaicin chemical is concentrated in the seeds, which is why they are hotter than the flesh.

Another thing to remember is that jalapenos can continue to turn red after being harvested, depending on how ripe they were when you picked them. If your peppers are slightly red when you pick them, then they will likely continue to ripen and turn redder on your kitchen counter. However, if they are light green and unripe when picked, they will most likely never ripen or redden.

So, if you want red jalapenos, it is best to wait for the fruits to start to ripen and turn red while still attached to the plant. Let them mature throughout the growing season to harvest the sweetest and spiciest produce. However, if the winter months are approaching, it is best to harvest all of your jalapenos, whether they are ripe or underripe.  

When should you not pick a jalapeno?

There are some instances when jalapenos should not be harvested for consumption. 

The first case is if you notice the fruits starting to rot while still on the plant. Symptoms usually include water-soaked lesions on the fruit’s surface that progress into a slimy, deteriorating texture. You might also notice the produce beginning to emit a foul smell. 

Generally, soft rot starts when bacteria penetrate the fruit. This can be caused by insects or sun-scald. If you are not careful, these pathogens can easily spread during harvest or when the plants are wet (either due to rain or morning dew). Hence, it is best to discard any fruits produced by the affected pepper plant.

Another case is if the peppers have been eaten by bugs. Although some fruits can still be safely eaten, depending on the pests you have in your garden, it is best to remove the affected fruits individually and discard them.

Conclusion

Picking your jalapenos at the right time is important for several reasons. You should pick the peppers when they have reached the right size and color, as these factors are indicators of the flavor and heat level of the fruit. The redder they are, the more spicy and sweet they will be. Harvesting your jalapenos at the right time of the day can also prevent the spread of pathogens that cause soft rot.

Hopefully, this article has given you all the information you need before your first jalapeno harvest. Happy planting!

Image: istockphoto.com / Visual Art Agency

Ferns are lush, non-flowering plants that can bring a lovely, tropical vibe to your porch, terrace or outdoor garden, whether planted in pots, hanging baskets, or in the ground. Surprisingly, these plants are also super hardy and can thrive outside without too much of a problem.

But – how often should you water your ferns if they are outside? If you are planning to grow your ferns outdoors and are clueless about their watering needs, then read on!

Do ferns grow well outside?

Although ferns are well known as indoor houseplants, most varieties can also flourish outdoors. These hardy plants can survive the harsh outdoor temperatures, whether it is the scorching heat of summer or the freezing temperatures over winter.

Hence, it is perfectly fine to grow your ferns outdoors, as long as you are growing a hardy variety like the Boston fern, and as long as you provide them with the right growing conditions. Ferns, in general, do best in moist and shady areas. For faster, healthier growth, make sure to place your plants in a spot where the temperature is between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. 

How often should you water ferns outside?

When it comes to watering, outdoor-grown ferns are generally less demanding than their indoor counterparts. However, they are used to growing in areas with lots of humidity and rainfall, so you will need to ensure that they receive adequate water to thrive and remain verdant.

In general, ferns need about one to two gallons of water per week, which is approximately equivalent to a once-weekly watering. Keep in mind, though, that your watering routine should be adjusted according to your local climate. For example, you might need to water your plants every two to three days during the hot summer season. 

The type of fern you are growing will also dictate how much water it needs. Some fern varieties, like the Boston and staghorn ferns, need regular moisture, while those like the asparagus fern and the western sword fern do not transpire as much water due to their very thin leaves. Thus, they do not need watering as frequently as the other fern varieties. 

Finally, the type of growing medium can also influence how often you need to water your ferns. Some people grow ferns as part of a garden landscape, while the others plant them in smaller containers or pots. We have explained below how each of these growing environments affects your watering routine:

1. Fern planted in garden soil

Establishing the correct watering routines for your ferns is essential for healthy roots and foliage. However, the frequency of watering will be greatly affected by the type of soil in which the plants are grown. In the case of ferns planted in regular garden soil, they might not need as much watering as those grown in containers. That is because these plants can establish a more extensive root system that grows deep into the ground, so they can find moisture at a deeper level than a container-grown plant.

2. Fern planted in a pot

Ferns planted in pots might need more watering as the soil in a pot tends to dry faster than that in a garden bed. As a general rule, potted ferns should be watered at least once a week; however, this might also depend on the type of pot you have used. 

For example, if you are using terracotta pots, the soil will probably dry out faster as terracotta is a porous material. That means you will need to increase the watering frequency to keep your plants hydrated.

On the other hand, using plastic pots can have the opposite effect. Plastic pots tend to retain more moisture, making them an ideal choice if you live in a dry region. This way, you will not need to give your ferns as much water as those in terracotta pots, as the soil will stay moist for longer.

Other factors, such as the size of the pot, outside temperature, season, and type of soil might also affect the watering needs of your ferns. The only sure-fire way to know for sure when they need watering is to check the soil from time to time. The top layer of soil should be dry to the touch before you water your plants again.

3. Fern planted in a hanging basket

Similar to pots, the soil in hanging baskets also tends to dry out quite quickly. The roots of your ferns are exposed to the air all day, increasing the moisture evaporation rate, especially on hot, sunny days. 

To keep a fern well-hydrated in a hanging basket, it is recommended to water it every two to three days. Once again, make sure that the top layer of soil is dry before watering. You can insert your finger into the topsoil to know whether your plant needs a drink or not.

Other factors to consider

Aside from the specific fern variety and the growing medium, several external factors need to be considered when watering your outdoor ferns. These factors affect how much water your fern will need at a certain time or in a certain location. As these factors can change, there might be times when you need to adjust your watering schedule instead of blindly adhering to the same routine.

These are the main things you need to consider when watering your outdoor ferns:

1. Weather

Changes in the weather can affect the water requirements of your ferns, so be mindful of the current conditions and adjust your routine accordingly. On rainy days, you do not need to water your ferns so much. On the other hand, make sure to keep them well hydrated if there is no rain for several days or weeks.

2. Sunlight exposure

While most fern varieties enjoy a bit of full sunlight, the scorching heat of the sun can also dry out the soil pretty fast! That means your sun-exposed ferns will need more water to maintain healthy roots and leaves.

3. Season

Ferns are generally hardy perennials that can survive the harsh outdoor conditions, including the winter weather. Some varieties also go dormant for a period when the cooler months arrive, which means you will need to reduce the frequency of your watering when the freezing temperatures set in.

4. Spacing

Just like most plants, ferns that are planted close to one another in the same soil will have to compete for the available water resources. This would mean watering your plants more frequently to keep them all hydrated.

5. Container size and drainage holes

If you are growing your ferns in containers, keep in mind that the size and drainage holes of your containers can affect their water-holding capacity. The larger the container, the more soil it holds, and hence the more water it will hold, too. In this case, you should avoid watering your ferns too frequently. A small container, on the other hand, will dry out faster and need watering more often.

The drainage holes also matter when choosing a container – they are a non-negotiable criterion! These holes help the excess water escape from the soil and thus prevent root rot. 

6. Temperature and humidity

Temperature and humidity both play a role when it comes to your plants’ water requirements. Higher temperatures can put your ferns under heat stress, while an excessively humid environment can promote the growth of bacteria and mold. Hence, you should adjust your watering depending on both temperature and humidity to avoid any issues.

Signs of watering problems in ferns

Most fern varieties love moisture. Nevertheless, too much water can have dangerous consequences for your plants. Conversely, if you are a busy plant parent and often forget to water your ferns, this can have detrimental effects, too!

Both overwatering and underwatering are common mistakes among novice gardeners, and striking the right balance might seem overwhelming at first. But do not worry – there are some early tell-tale signs that will alert you when you need to adjust your watering habits. Check out these symptoms so that you can save your ferns from incorrect watering before it is too late. 

1. Underwatering problems in ferns

We are all guilty of underwatering our plants from time to time. Underwatering can be caused by complete neglect, not giving the plant enough water when you do water it, or incorrect watering in relation to the season. 

Fortunately, it is easier to save an underwatered fern than an overwatered one, provided you catch the problem in time. So, how do you know when your fern needs water? These are the common signs:

• The soil around the fern feels bone dry to the touch.
• The leaves appear droopy.
• The leaves are wilting, curling, and turning brown.
• The leaf edges are becoming dry and crispy.

2. Overwatering problems in ferns

Overwatering is the leading cause of root damage in plants, including ferns. That is because, in simple terms, too much water can drown a plant. When the soil is waterlogged over an extended period, it deprives the roots of oxygen which will eventually kill the entire plant. 

Overwatering can come about due to insufficient drainage, watering too frequently without considering the plant size and season, or overestimating the watering needs of the plant.

Some of the key signs that your ferns are overwatered are as follows:

• Your ferns’ leaves are turning yellow.
• The leaves are wilting – a symptom shared with underwatering.
• The soil appears wet and saturated.
• The leaves and stems look soft or squishy.
• After some time, your plants might start to show signs of fungal infection.

How long can ferns go without water?

As mentioned, ferns are hardy plants that can survive outdoor conditions – and even drought conditions, up to a point.

Depending on the variety, ferns can generally survive about two to three weeks without water. However, some ferns that are drought-sensitive might only make it for a few days.

Thus, it is best to be on the safe side and water your ferns regularly to avoid any drought-related stress.

How do you take care of an outdoor fern?

Although caring for your outdoor ferns requires fairly minimal effort, you do still need to keep an eye on your tropical greens to ensure that they are growing happily. These tips should help you care for your ferns outside:

• Water your ferns correctly. Make sure that the soil is neither waterlogged nor bone dry, as both of these conditions can be detrimental to the health of your plants!
• Trim any damaged stems or fronds regularly to keep your ferns in top shape. Regular pruning will also prevent the spread of any potential plant diseases and promote bushier growth of the leaves.
• Keep your fertilizer application in check. Sometimes, too much fertilizer can affect the water uptake of your ferns.
• Use a well-draining pot and soil. Like most plants, ferns can fall victim to root rot if you leave them in waterlogged soil for too long.
• Consider repotting your plant if it seems to have outgrown its container. This will allow more space for its roots to spread.

Conclusion

One of the keys to successfully growing your ferns outside is proper watering – and a rigid watering schedule might not always do the trick! Several environmental factors can affect the moisture needs of your plants, including the fern variety, local weather, soil type, and many others. So, make sure to adjust your watering routine in line with these factors, and with the right care you can enjoy your outdoor ferns for years to come!

Image: istockphoto.com / Adrian Teoh

So, you wake up one morning, all excited to harvest your first tomatoes, only to find burrows, holes in the leaves, and bare stems! The garden you have tended so carefully for months has been completely ruined in the blink of an eye.

Pests are unfortunately part of our ecosystem. And, while some might just steal a few bites from your precious tomatoes, others can destroy the entire plant, forcing you to start all over again! These freeloaders come in the form of wild animals, worms, insects, or birds. 

Some of these pests only show up in the evening to attack your favorite crops. They might chew holes in the leaves, stems and fruit, or tear down the entire garden in a single night. Others may steal your fruit in broad daylight, right before your eyes. In fact, even your own pets can sometimes mess up your tomato garden.

Unfortunately, some of these unwelcome visitors can be more challenging than others to eradicate. 

Let us walk through, one by one, what may be eating your tomatoes and how to keep them off your garden!

What’s eating my tomatoes at night?

Certain pests are more likely to ravage your garden at night, so that you are welcomed by unsightly damage when you wake up in the morning. Although both animals and bugs can destroy your plants in the dark, we have summarized below a list of worms, crawling bugs, and insects that can harm your greens and fruits.

1. Worms

Worms often hide in the ground or on the underside of your tomato leaves and only come out at night to feast on your plants. The most common of these are hornworms and cutworms.

Hornworms are common tomato pests with horn-like tails. These caterpillars are about three inches long, yet they can still be challenging to spot since they have a green body that is camouflaged by the leaves.

Cutworms, on the other hand, are moth caterpillars that grow about an inch long. Their bodies are fat and colored gray or black. These pests hide in the upper layers of the soil while the sun is up, only coming out at night to feed on your plants.

Whether you have hornworms or cutworms in the garden, know that both of these pests can defoliate and destroy an entire plant! Hence, it is important to manage them as soon as you can before they multiply rapidly and take over your garden.

2. Insects

While most insects are beneficial pollinators, some can destroy your plants. Leaf-cutting bees are the most common of these, and they create half-moon cuts on your tomato leaves. The good news is that they will not harm the fruits. so you can still enjoy your tomatoes at harvest time. 

However, if you do not like the leaves damaged and you see their eggs on your plants, then cover your plants to keep them safe. Hopefully, these nuisances will avoid visiting your garden and find another place to lay their eggs.

3. Snails and slugs

Snails and slugs are slimy creatures that can cause extensive damage to your tomatoes and other plants. They love hiding in cool, moist areas such as in mulch or under the shade of pots. Both these pests leave irregularly-shaped holes on the leaves, and can also feed on the ripening fruits of your tomato plants. However, if you are not aware of their presence, you might confuse their damage for that caused by other pests. To know whether your plants are infested with snails and slugs, look for slimy mucous trails on and around the plants.

Animals that eat your tomato plants

Some animals love nothing better than some free tomatoes, and we have listed some of the most common suspects below:

1. Birds

Our little feathered friends are often the culprits when it comes to ravaged tomato gardens. A few birds will not hesitate to feast on your delicious, ripe tomatoes, especially if you have set up a bird feeder near your greens. 

Birds, in general, love visiting gardens for fresh worms, spiders, caterpillars, aphids, and mosquitoes, and these visits can be beneficial as they help keep the bugs in check. However, the birds can also take advantage of the produce in your garden while visiting. Thus, it is important to keep an eye on your daily garden visitors to ensure that your ripe tomatoes reach your kitchen! 

Some of the common birds that love pecking on tomatoes are crows, cardinals, blue jays, mockingbirds, and blackbirds.

2. Deer

Deer will happily feed on a variety of crops, shrubs, nuts, leaves, and fungi. But do you know that they also love eating tomatoes? These animals can travel great distances just to find food and, given the opportunity, they will not hesitate to grab a few tomatoes from your garden for their dinner. 

Usually, these animals wreak garden havoc during the evening or early morning, munching their way through your flowers, shrubs, and vegetables. Fortunately, however, there are safe and humane ways you can prevent them from feasting on your produce, and we will discuss these further down.

3. Small rodents

If you notice golf ball-sized holes in your garden, then you probably have rodent visitors eating your plants while you are not looking! Voles, for example, are opportunists that dig and live in an underground tunnel system. They have long, prominent front teeth which they use to dig holes and chew through the roots of your garden vegetables like tomatoes, carrots, beans, and others. 

Unfortunately, these little animals can be problematic for your garden if you cannot chase them away soon enough. Not only will they feed on the fruits of your tomato plants; they will probably damage the entire plant, causing you a lot of frustration and heartbreak!

4. Squirrels

Squirrels might look adorable and friendly, but that is only until they start feasting on your tomatoes while staring directly into your eyes. Yes – these cuties will not hesitate to climb your fence and vines to get a taste of your garden produce! 

Unfortunately, for gardeners, squirrels are everywhere. And, while it can be challenging to keep them off your garden for good, there are kind ways to prevent them from harvesting your tomatoes. 

5. Groundhogs

Also known as woodchucks or whistle pigs, groundhogs definitely love invading gardens! Whether you are growing tomatoes, lettuce, carrots, or any other crop, these vegetarians can happily consume your entire garden in less than 24 hours! Some signs that groundhogs have eaten your tomatoes include the presence of deep burrow entrances, teeth marks on the fruits, and tracks on the soil showing clawed toes. 

6. Rabbits

Other adorable pests that can eat their way through a garden are rabbits. These furry creatures love nightshade plants like peppers, potatoes, and – you guessed it – tomatoes! That said, they can also happily and quickly eat almost any vegetables you happen to be growing, be it lettuce, broccoli, herbs or even flowers! Surprisingly, they have quite a voracious appetite, especially during mating season, so make sure that you are ready with your scare tactics and repellents to keep them away from your garden.

7. Chickens

If you are raising chickens at home, you should keep an eye on them if they roam freely around your garden. Although chickens mainly consume worms, they might still peck at your ripe tomatoes and other vegetables, causing the loss of some of your fruits. While they will most likely avoid the leaves and flowers, tomato fruits are highly nutritious for your free-range birds. So, consider fencing off your tomato plants to prevent your chickens from stealing the fruits!

8. Raccoons

If you notice distinctive, hand-like footprints in your garden soil, then you likely have raccoons ravaging your tomato plants at night.

Raccoons are omnivores that love visiting gardens for free treats. They eat any fruit and vegetables they can find, and are also fond of both ripe and green tomatoes. Unfortunately, these pests can quickly dig under or climb over your fences, making it difficult to keep them out of your yard.

9. Stray cats

Yep, even hungry stray cats might occasionally eat your tomatoes behind your back!

However, cats are less likely to be the culprits when your tomatoes go missing, especially during spring and summer when they would rather hunt other prey like rodents or mice. Additionally, most parts of the tomato plant are toxic to cats, except for the ripe red tomatoes themselves, so chances are they will avoid the plants completely. Still, their feces and urine can contaminate your vegetable garden, so it is best to keep strange cats out of your yard.

10. Family dogs

If you have dogs roaming freely around your garden, there is a good chance they might mess with your plants. They might play boisterously near the vegetable garden, or even chomp on the fruits and leaves. This is why it is a good idea to keep a constant eye on your furry companions!

How do I know what is eating my tomato plants?

The only way to know what is eating your tomatoes, especially at night, is to look for certain obvious signs. You might notice traces of claw marks in the garden soil, slimy trails around your plants, burrows or holes in the ground, or the specific type of damage done to your fruits. 

If you have the extra cash, you could consider getting a night vision camera to check who is stealing your tomatoes while you sleep. Or, instead of watching your garden constantly, we can recommend a trail camera to help you monitor your property day and night.

How to protect your tomatoes

Depending on the culprit, there are several tactics you can use to protect your garden without hurting your unwelcome guests. Here are some of the humane ways to keep garden pests off your precious tomatoes:

• Cover your tomato plants with garden netting or aluminum screening to stop birds from pecking at the fruits.
• Pick your tomatoes early, before they start turning red. Most pests prefer red, ripe tomatoes, so it would be safest to harvest the fruits early and let them ripen on your kitchen countertop instead.
• Put fake predators at the corner of your garden to scare off birds and animals. Some even come with solar-powered lights that can effectively deter invaders.
• Use motion-activated sprinklers to keep wild animals from getting near your tomatoes. You can also use motion-activated lights and loud noises (if your garden is far from your home and other neighbors) to scare off animals.
• Install an electric fence to scare the animals a bit when they try to access your garden. 
• Install a tomato cage with a mesh top to protect your plants.
• Install a fence around your garden, preferably extending a few inches underground to prevent burrowing animals from digging under it. The fence should also be high enough – at least six feet – to prevent larger animals from jumping over.
• Keep your garden clear of piles of mulch and dead leaves, as these can be a favorite hiding place for certain pests.
• Create a decoy garden where you can leave some crops for animals to eat.
• Use repellents to control snails and slugs. Your options include coffee grounds, egg shells, and slug tapes.
• Use herbs like basil and dill to discourage hornworms from coming near your plants.
• Use plant collars and diatomaceous earth on your tomatoes to deter cutworms and their larvae.
• Spend time in your garden and hand-pick any worms you see on the plants. You can also invite beneficial insects like ladybugs and braconid wasps to eat the worms and eggs.

Conclusion

It can be heartbreaking to see the tomatoes that you watered, pruned, and cared for over months, destroyed by pests in just a day! If you are regularly traumatized by worms, insects, and animals ravaging your garden, then hopefully you have found the necessary solutions in this guide. Knowing how to deal appropriately with these unwelcome visitors will ensure that you can enjoy the fruits of your labor yourself, rather than letting someone (or something) enjoy them first!

Image: istockphoto.com / Angelique Nijssen

Pussy willows are a popular and attractive decor element that can add to the atmosphere of any occasion! Whether you are after an interesting visual effect to celebrate Easter, the holiday season, or a wedding event, the addition of fresh or dried willow branches is sure to make for a dramatic centerpiece! 

The secret to creating wonderful art out of willow branches lies in proper storage and preservation. So, if you want to learn how to preserve willow branches this spring for your own decor, this guide is for you!

Common uses of willow branches

The sky is the limit when it comes to the varied uses for willow trees. In their natural habitat, these trees provide shelter and food for native wildlife. In the garden, they can serve as a living fence or barrier to divide different areas. Even willow bark can be useful to humans since it contains salicin, an active ingredient used in aspirin that naturally relieves pain and inflammation.

Willow branches, on the other hand, are most popular as decorative items. The unique and attractive patterns they make can turn a boring space into something extraordinary. Most often you will find willow branches sold in florist shops or craft stores, such as this FeiLix brand from Amazon. That is because they are so widely used in arts and craft projects, whether they are fresh, dried, or even artificial. 

For festive events like weddings or Christmas holidays, you can use the dried branches as garlands or beautiful centerpieces for your dining table. Dried willow branches give your room a natural and elegant look that will impress friends and visitors. You can even use the dried, curled branches as picture frames, or to accent your floral arrangements!

If you like the idea of a unique, three-dimensional centerpiece in your living room, you can use dried willow branches for that, too! Since they usually come in different sizes and shapes, you can arrange the branches to create spirals or patterns – just let your creativity run wild!

If you are into crafts, willow branches can be used for your weaving or basketry projects. You can also weave the dried branches into mats and vases. The thicker branches can be reserved for structural or sculptural projects, too. Whatever type of art interests you, willow branches can always be included in the recipe – it just comes down to your own imagination.

Thankfully, you do not need to spend money on willow branches if you know how to preserve them. You can harvest them quite easily, since they are available in so many places, such as on a nearby riverbank or roadside. There are several ways to preserve these branches to make them last longer, depending on how you plan to use them. All of these methods are discussed more in the next sections.

How to preserve willow branches for decorations

Willow branches are an attractive and versatile material to use for crafts and decorative projects, and they are also super easy to work with. Cut willow branches can last for weeks, as long as they are kept dry. If they are kept in water, the branches might start to grow roots or develop mold. The latter may also happen if the branches are stored in damp areas.

These steps should give you some ideas on how to make willow branches last longer as decor inside your home:

1. Gather your tools 

First, make sure you have all the tools you need before going out to find willow branches to use for your projects. Always have a sharp knife or pair of scissors ready to cut the branches according to your preferred size and shape. Also, prepare some wood glue and string or thick twine, so you can easily tie the branches.

2. Harvest good quality willow branches

As mentioned before, willow trees can be found everywhere, although you are most likely to find them in wetter areas. Using your sharp knife or scissors, gently cut the branches to your desired length. Try to make sure they are all about the same size so you can dry them evenly later on.

3. Soak your willow branches in water

Willow branches can easily become dry and brittle after they are harvested. To keep them in tip-top shape, they should be soaked in water for 24 hours per foot. So, for example, if your willow branches are four feet long, then you need to soak them for about four days. This will ensure that the branches have absorbed enough water before you use them for your crafts.

Another great tip is to avoid exposing your soaked willows to direct sunlight. Cover your container until your branches are ready. If you are living in an area with hot and humid weather, you might need to change the willow water occasionally to prevent the branches from rotting and developing a stinky smell. 

4. Drain and dry the willow branches

After giving your foraged willows a good soak, remove them from the water and rinse them carefully. Let them stand in an upright position to allow the excess water to drip off. Now that the bark has absorbed enough moisture, it will be easier to shape the branches according to your preferences.

Let your willow branches dry outside on a sunny day. It should take about two weeks to air-dry the branches before they are ready to use.

5. Apply a waterproof sealant

Once your willow branches are dry, spray them with a waterproof sealant or polyurethane varnish. By doing this, you can preserve the branches and keep insects from getting in. Waterproof sealants will also increase the strength of the branches, prevent cracks, and mitigate other waterborne damages.

Let the sprayed willow branches dry completely for a day before using them in your projects. If you have any leftovers, you can store them in bundles by tying them with string or twine. Hang them in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area. You can re-soak the stored branches if you plan to use them in the future – just avoid doing it frequently. Also, keep an eye on them to prevent molds and insects from settling in.

How to preserve willow branches for floral arrangements

Looking for beautiful, DIY elements for your special occasion? Then you can use willow branches to add a natural touch to your flower arrangements!

Preserving willow branches for floral arrangements is almost the same as preparing them for decorations. Here are some tips to ensure your willow branches are in the best shape before using them to this end:

• For the best quality branches, it is best to cut your willow in early spring or late winter. This will prevent any milky sap from running out from the tree.
• Make sure the branches are free of any leaves. Use a sharp knife to remove the leaves and bark.
• Soak the willow branches in water for at least 24 hours.
• Take the branches out of the water and let them dry for a few hours.
• Once they are dry, arrange them in a vase with your chosen flowers, according to your liking.

How to preserve willow branches with glycerin

Another great way to preserve willow branches is by using glycerin. Through the process of osmosis, soaking the branches in a glycerin solution will replace their moisture content. This will keep your willows looking fresh and in great shape. 

Follow these steps to preserve your willow branches using glycerin solution:

1. First, create your glycerin solution. The recipe requires a mixture of one part glycerin with two parts water. For example, if you are using 200 milliliters of water, you should add 100 milliliters of glycerin.
2. Carefully stir the mixture using a stick. It should begin to look cloudy, but do not worry – it will clear once the solution is thoroughly mixed.
3. Pour the glycerin mixture into another container and add latex paint. Mix thoroughly until the two are well combined. 
4. Apply the latex paint and glycerin mixture to your dried willow branches. If you have a large container, you can also submerge the branches into the mixture.
5. Allow the branches to absorb the solution for about three days. You can also add food coloring to the mixture to enhance the color of the branches.

How to preserve willow branches in resin

Resin is an excellent substance to use if you want to create durable castings from your willow branches. All you need is resin, water, a silicone mold, and a bit of isopropyl alcohol for cleaning. 

Before creating the casting, make sure that your willow branches are completely dry to prevent rotting. One way to do this is to use silica gel to suck the moisture from the branches.

These steps should help you achieve amazing resin art with your willow branches:

• Clean your silicone mold using alcohol. Make sure that it is completely free of dust and dirt.
• Combine one part resin with two parts water and mix thoroughly.
• Add the mixture into your silicone mold. Using a blowtorch, pop any bubbles in the resin mixture to ensure a smooth finish.
• Layer your willows into the mold according to your liking.
• Let the willows and resin dry in the mold overnight.

Conclusion

Creating decorative items using willow branches can be a fun thing to do with family members, especially when spring is in the air! Thankfully, you do not need to buy willows if you know how to preserve them yourself. Just make sure to clear the branches of leaves, bark, dirt, and pests before using them for your crafts. When done correctly, your natural willow decor items are sure to be a head-turner when visitors arrive!

Image: istockphoto.com / AndreimLazar

Parsley is a favorite herb among gardeners because it is so versatile and easy to grow. However, harvesting its flavorful leaves requires great care, to avoid damaging the plant and to ensure continuous growth. 

This guide will explain how to harvest parsley without killing the plant so that you can enjoy a consistent supply of fresh herbs throughout the year.

Why grow parsley?

Parsley has a well-earned reputation as a garnishing herb. Known botanically as Petroselinum crispum, this hardy biennial belongs to the Apiaceae family, which means parsley is a close cousin to carrots, dill, and celery. It has been a popular herb for centuries and was used by ancient Greeks and Romans to garnish and add flavor to their dishes.

Parsley comes in two main varieties – flat-leaf parsley and curly parsley. 

The flat-leaf parsley, or Italian parsley, has flat leaves with serrated edges. This variety is loved for its strong flavor and glossy texture. Curly parsley, or French parsley, on the other hand, is known for its darker, curly leaves and slightly bitter taste. Although curly parsley is mainly used as a garnish, it can also be used as a flavor enhancer in soups and stews.

Parsley is not just your ordinary herb! Aside from garnishing your salads, it is incredibly good for you, too. This Mediterranean herb is rich in vitamins and antioxidants that have a lot of impressive health benefits. 

Another important parsley fact that you might be missing out on is that it is known to be a great companion plant. When allowed to flower, this flavorful herb can attract pollinators like wasps and butterflies. This means that, when planted together with certain vegetables, parsley can make them grow better. Aside from attracting beneficial insects, it can also repel pests, help improve soil nutrients and encourage faster growth of the plants around it.

Now that you know why parsley is such a delightful herb to have, you might be considering adding this plant to your backyard garden. Whether you want to expand your herb collection or you simply love the incredible taste of parsley, there are many dos and don’ts that you should know in order to grow it healthily and harvest it correctly.

Best time to harvest parsley

Parsley takes about 70 to 90 days to grow to maturity, although it can be harvested already at a younger stage. The rule of thumb is to wait for the plant to reach about six or seven inches tall before harvesting. You should also make sure that every single stem has more than three clusters of leaves. If not, your parsley is not ready to harvest.

Parsley usually starts getting bushy from the middle, as this is where the new growth forms. If you want to have a consistent supply of fresh parsley year-round, avoid harvesting if you do not see plenty of new growth from the middle of the plant.

Tips on how to harvest parsley without killing the plant

Harvesting your garden herbs can be both an exciting and a rewarding experience! However, not knowing the proper way to harvest your parsley can kill it. We all want our herbs to grow abundantly after a harvest, so if you want to enjoy your parsley for the entire harvest season, follow these tips:

1. Harvest during the first growth cycle

If you are harvesting parsley for its flavorful leaves, it is best to harvest the younger plants before they flower. Mature or older plants are best harvested if you want the seeds.

2. Do not cut the middle stalks

Since parsley grows from the middle, the ones in the inner circle are the younger leaves while the ones near the outside are the older parts. If you only need a small amount of the herb for your dish, it is best to harvest the outer stems of the plant, leaving the inner stems in the middle. 

When harvesting, make sure to keep about a half to two-thirds of the plant intact to avoid damage. This will encourage new growth after the harvest.

3. Cut from the base of the stalk

To harvest a large amount of parsley, you should cut the entire stem from the base using a sharp pair of scissors. Trimming your parsley plant this way will also stimulate the growth of new leaves and stems, making it healthier and bushier.

When pruning the plant, remember to cut the mature stalks from the bottom. If you cut only the top leafy portion, the remaining foliage will turn brown. It is also not advisable to pluck individual leaves, as this will likely damage the plant and will not give you a good yield.

4. Let your plant rest after the harvest

After harvesting, leave your parsley plant to recover for two to three weeks. Water it sufficiently, especially during summer, and feed it with a water-soluble fertilizer. Once you notice new stems and leaves emerging, your parsley is ready for another harvest.

How to harvest parsley for seeds

If you want to harvest the seeds, remember that parsley plants do not produce seeds until their second growth cycle. The first growth cycle is usually the best time to harvest as many leaves as possible because, during the second growth year, the leaves produced will not be as tasty as in the first year. Another reason is that the plant has grown deeper and more established roots after the first growth year.

Hence, you need to wait a year to harvest high-quality parsley seeds. Before doing so, make sure that the weaker parts of the plant have been trimmed off. This will allow room for new growth and prevent unwelcome pests from settling onto the dying leaves and stems. 

Once your seeds are ready, you can harvest them by cutting the stem below the seed head. Make sure to use a sharp pair of scissors or a knife to cut the stem. You can also pinch the plant’s stem using your thumb and index finger, but do this carefully to avoid damaging the plant.

During the harvest, avoid shaking the seed head so that the seeds do not fall off and go to waste. Allow the seeds to dry in a paper bag, and once dry, shake the bag so that the seeds separate easily from the head. If some of the younger seeds remain stuck on the head, allow them to ripen under the sun for two to three days. Make sure to protect the seeds from birds and small animals while keeping them as dry as possible.

Tips for growing and harvesting parsley

1. Harvest your parsley before winter

Like most plants, hard winter frost can easily damage the leaves of your parsley and turn them brown. If your parsley does die, it might grow back again during spring and summer. However, to ensure that you have a consistent supply of fresh leaves, make sure to move your plant indoors when winter comes. It is also best to harvest the leaves before the first frost as you can no longer get fresh green leaves once the plant enters dormancy.

2. Provide lots of light and water

While parsley plants are somewhat forgiving, they do crave lots of light and water. That said, make sure that the topsoil is dry to the touch before your next watering, or you risk overwatering and causing root rot. If you are growing your parsley indoors, make sure it still has access to sunlight for at least six hours per day, preferably near a south-facing window.  

3. Keep harvesting for continuous growth

Parsley grows best when trimmed regularly. The more you cut the stalks, the more it will grow new stems and leaves. However, you should avoid cutting the inner stems in the center as this is where the younger parts are. Focus on the mature stalks on the outer edges of the plant, and cut the stems from the base near the soil.

You should continue harvesting your parsley until the second growth cycle when it starts to grow flowers and seeds.

Tips for storing parsley

Growing your own parsley can leave you sitting with an excess amount of leaves – but you do not have to use all your parsley at once! There are many ways you can store the fresh leaves so you can reserve them for later use.

The best way is to store your newly harvested parsley in the refrigerator or freezer. Simply wrap the leaves in a damp paper cloth and let them sit in the refrigerator for up to two days. You can also place parsley sprigs in a container with water to keep them fresh for seven days inside your fridge.

Alternatively, you can store your parsley in the freezer for several months. To preserve its freshness and flavor, we suggest chopping up the leaves, adding them to ice cube trays, and filling these with water. Once you are ready to use them, simply defrost the ice cubes and drain the water. The only downside of this method is that freezing will not keep the leaves crisp.

Drying your parsley is another option if you want a year-round supply of this herb. This method is simple – just hang the parsley sprigs upside down in a dry, warm, and well-ventilated room. After two weeks, the leaves should be completely dry. Crumble the dried leaves and store them in an airtight container to have them on hand for your cooking needs. 

Conclusion

Parsley is more than just a garnish – this amazing herb is also useful for enhancing the flavor of salads and other dishes. Aside from its culinary uses, it is also very healthy to consume. No wonder so many growers fancy having their own fresh parsley supply in their backyard!

Despite being a hardy biennial, parsley can also be quite fragile. Thus, you need to harvest its leaves carefully to avoid killing the whole plant. Having read this guide, you should now have some idea of how to do this, so that you can enjoy a continuous supply of your favorite herb!

Image: istockphoto.com / AndreimLazar

Wondering why your plants are not growing well, despite you giving them generous amounts of mushroom compost? Then you may be growing them in the wrong soil conditions. In fact, the addition of mushroom compost might even be making things worse!

Some plants naturally prefer an acidic environment for optimal growth. For example, many deciduous trees and evergreens like magnolias, blueberries, willows, and Rhododendrons love growing in acidic soil – and adding mushroom compost will turn the soil alkaline. This higher pH level will not help these plants thrive, and might even kill them in the long run.

We have compiled a short list of common plants that do not like mushroom compost. However, this list is not exhaustive, so make sure to do your own research before adding mushroom compost to your garden!

What is mushroom compost?

You have probably heard a lot of gardeners swear by the benefits of mushroom compost. But what is it? And how does it benefit many garden plants?

Mushroom compost is made up of organic materials like corn cobs, hay, hulls, horse manure, peat moss, and various other ingredients. This type of compost is usually used by mushroom growers as a slow-release fertilizer. 

Depending on the brand, the ingredients of this compost might vary slightly. Generally, it requires around three to four weeks to decompose before being sold in bags. Many gardening and landscape suppliers sell mushroom compost since it is popularly used as a soil amendment for gardens and container plants. Mushroom compost is also used as a mulch to enhance the soil quality in vegetable and ornamental gardens.

Aside from the nutrients, it contains, mushroom compost also improves garden soil through its moisture retention capabilities. This means you can decrease your watering frequency while your plants still grow healthily. The only downside of this type of compost is that it can increase the salt level in the soil, which can cause dehydration and compromise yield quality. And, as previously mentioned, it also increases the soil’s alkalinity, which is really bad for acid-loving plants. 

Why some plants do not like mushroom compost

Some plants do not like mushroom compost because of its high alkalinity. It has the ability to neutralize the acid content in the soil, and unfortunately, a lot of fruit bushes and ericaceous plants prefer moderately to highly acidic soil conditions. If you apply mushroom compost while growing these types of plants, your gardening efforts are less likely to succeed as the plants will not thrive in such an alkaline environment.

Additionally, using mushroom compost can increase the concentration of salt in the soil. This means that a lot of the moisture will be absorbed by the soil, leaving less water available for the plants. Hence, with increased salinity, your plants will also suffer from root dehydration and water stress.

Ericaceous or acid-loving plants must therefore not be given mushroom compost and should be planted in soil with a pH below 7. If you are not sure about the pH level of your garden soil, you can purchase a pH soil tester such as the Kensizer or Luster Leaf 1601 Rapitest Test Kit. If your soil is alkaline, you can add soil amendments like sulfur, ericaceous compost, a pine needle mulch, leaf mold, and acidifying liquid feeds to make it more acidic. 

10 Plants that do not like mushroom compost

Although mushroom compost is nutrient-dense and beneficial for many gardens, not all plants love it! This is mostly true for ericaceous plants, which do much better in an acidic environment. If you are not sure whether or not your garden plants will benefit from your homemade organic mushroom compost, then do check our list below. Hopefully, you will find the answers you are looking for!

1. Azalea

Azaleas are a type of flowering shrub that thrives in well-draining, acidic soil. If planted in alkaline soil, they will starve to death! Azaleas need a soil pH of about 5.5 to 6.2 to grow healthily and maintain their bushy foliage. A soil rich in mushroom compost will turn them yellow and kill them over a period of time. 

So, if you are growing an azalea plant, it is best to use acidic, loamy soil. Instead of adding mushroom compost, use ericaceous compost to achieve the right soil pH for this plant.

2. Berries

Berries also love acidic soil. Whether you are growing strawberries, blueberries, or any other types of berry, make sure that they are planted in soil with the ideal pH range. For example, blueberries require a pH between 4.0 and 5.3, while strawberries need about 5.5 to 6.5 to thrive. Instead of mushroom compost, you can use a generous amount of leaf mold or peat moss to achieve the desired soil acidity.

3. Salvia

Salvia plants, otherwise known as sage plants, are members of the mint family that bloom with colorful flowers. Although they can be easily cultivated in regular garden soil, these plants prefer moderately acidic, dry soils with a pH range between 5.5 and 6.5. To make the soil more acidic, you can add chelated iron, soil sulfur, or aluminum sulfate. Do not leave your salvia in waterlogged soil, as it will likely die from root damage.

4. Geranium

Geranium, also known as cranesbill, is a perennial shrub that deserves a spot in your hanging baskets or flower beds. Geraniums are loved by many gardeners for their colorful flowers that come in shades of pink, red, white, violet, apricot, and yellow. 

These ornamental plants are easy to grow and do not require mushroom compost to bloom. Keep the soil pH between 6.0 and 6.5, and use slow-release fertilizer or vermicompost instead to stimulate flowering.

5. Juniper

Juniper is an evergreen shrub that grows best in acidic soil, preferably between pH 5.0 and 7.0. This plant is highly forgiving and will probably flourish even in poor soil, but is best grown in nutrient-rich soil. You can give it a boost with either homemade or commercial compost. However, just avoid mushroom compost as this will not be very beneficial. As long as your growing medium is well-draining and provides good aeration, your juniper should happily thrive without serious issues.

6. Lupine

Lupine is an attractive flowering plant that can grow up to four feet under favorable conditions. One of its growing requirements is moist, well-draining, loose soil. Although it can thrive in highly acidic soil, this tall, spiky flower grows best in a neutral or slightly acidic medium. 

Lupines also do not require a lot of fertilizer, as too much can increase leaf growth at the expense of flower production. However, if your growing medium is slightly alkaline, then applying an acidifying fertilizer will be beneficial. 

7. Gardenia

Gardenia, also known as Cape jasmine, is an evergreen praised for its dark, glossy leaves and strongly scented white flowers. If you have fallen in love with its beauty and want to grow one in your garden, then you should know that it loves acidic soil with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Hence, it is best to avoid mushroom compost if you want to grow this beautiful flowering plant to its full potential.

Gardenias also need lots of space to avoid root competition. You can add perlite or pumice to the soil as well, to improve its drainage. Adding mulch like chopped wood or pine straw has proved helpful to increase moisture, boost soil nutrients, and prevent weed growth.

8. Heather

Heather, also called Scotch heather, is another evergreen flowering shrub that prefers an acidic environment. This classic garden flower loves composted bracken or rotten leaf mold as a nutrient source. If you want to see its flowers bloom beautifully, we highly recommend feeding it with a slow-release fertilizer and keeping it in an area that gets lots of sunlight. 

Remember that this plant can be highly tolerant of poor, rocky soil, provided the soil is acidic – preferably around 6.5 or below. If your garden soil is neutral or slightly alkaline, you can increase the acidity by adding damp peat moss. Avoid using mushroom compost as this will make it alkaline.

9. Camellia

Also known as the queen of the winter flowers or ‘rose of winter, camellia flowers are highly sought-after for their lush blooms and thick, glossy foliage. These plants are also known as tea plants since they are harvested and used for caffeinated teas. The great thing about these beauties is that they are not very high-maintenance plants. As long as you provide them with an adequate growing environment, including neutral or slightly acidic soil, they will thrive and bloom!

Adding mushroom compost can impede the growth of your camellia, as it will increase the salt in the soil and make it more alkaline. Instead, try to keep the soil within a pH range of 5.5 to 6.5 and slightly moist. Add composted bracken, pine needles, or leaf mold to make the soil organically rich in nutrients. 

10. Magnolia

Magnolias are a genus of flowering trees and shrubs that produce large, fragrant flowers that can be white, purple, yellow, or pink, depending on the species. Due to these unique, star-shaped flowers, they are a landscaping favorite among many growers.

If you want to grow magnolias in your own backyard, you need to make sure that the soil pH is between 5.5 and 6.5. Thus, you should avoid mushroom compost that will increase the soil’s alkalinity. Although magnolias are sufficiently adaptable to grow in clay or sandy soils, they are best grown in well-draining, moist soils to achieve the best blooms.

Conclusion

Mushroom compost is rich in organic matter and nutrients that support the healthy growth of your greens. However, not all plants like mushrooms compost since it can increase both the alkalinity and the salinity of the soil. If you are growing acid-loving plants, it is best to avoid mushroom compost and use other soil amendments to enrich your soil.

Image: istockphoto.com / Lilylian12

So, you are super excited to grow your own vegetables in a hydroponic system! But here’s the thing: you are still unsure as to which growing medium is best to achieve a healthy garden.

Clay pebbles and perlite are two of the most widely used growing substrates for hydroponic systems. Unlike soil, these materials keep your garden free from any soil-borne diseases. They are also cleaner and more economical to use, since you can reuse both of them. 

However, each growing medium still has its pros and cons, depending on the type of hydroponic system you are building. 

So, let us do a quick clay pebbles versus perlite comparison, to help you understand which of these two growing media will work best for you.

The importance of hydroponic media

If you are new to hydroponics, you might think that any rock would be suitable to support your growing plants. But in reality, it is not! Choosing the right hydroponic medium is critical for a number of reasons.

Traditionally, we use soil to cultivate our greens, and it is from this soil that plants normally get their nutrients to grow and bloom. As their roots and stems begin to expand, plants will also need the soil to support their growing height and weight. 

In hydroponics, however, it is a different story. With this method, you are growing plants in a soilless medium. So how do hydroponically-grown plants get the nutrients and support they need to keep them upright? This is where soilless hydroponic media come into play. 

The role of hydroponic media is to help support the plant’s weight and keep it upright while it grows. It also provides the roots with access to nutrients and oxygen. These materials are usually light, coarse, and porous, and do not affect the chemical composition of the nutrient solution.

One of the benefits of using soilless media is that you do not need to worry about soil-borne diseases and pests. This means that your greens can grow faster, healthier, and produce better quality fruits.

Knowing how important hydroponic media are when it comes to growing your plants, the next question would be this – which one is best? If you search online, you will find enough different growing media to overwhelm a newbie gardener! There are also different types of hydroponic systems, each requiring a specific growing medium. But, for now, you do not need to know these advanced hydroponic techniques if you are just starting out.

The most common growing media, and the ones we recommend for beginners, are clay pebbles and perlite. These two materials each have their pros and cons, depending on your chosen growing system. Some hydroponics enthusiasts even have their own recipes using these two growing media to achieve better results!

Clay pebbles versus perlite – which is better?

Both the clay pebbles and the perlite are excellent choices when setting up a hydroponic garden. In fact, these growing media are also popular in commercial hydroponic systems. However, if you are setting up a home hydroponic system, you might be wondering which one is better for you. 

The best growing medium to use depends on the type of hydroponic system you plan to build. For example, perlite is best used together with another medium, like coconut fiber. Clay pebbles, on the other hand, can also be used as a standalone medium but have a low water holding capacity. If you are setting up an ebb and flow-type system, it is best to top your expanded clay pebbles with 50 percent coco and 50 percent perlite.

Another important thing to consider is the type of plants you want to grow. The growing medium must be capable of physically supporting your plants while providing a healthy growing environment. It should also allow sufficient water flow so that the plant roots can quickly absorb nutrients.

Other factors to look for when choosing a growing medium:

• The size of your hydroponic garden
• Water retention capability
• Aeration properties
• Cation exchange capacity (CEC), air-filled porosity (AFP), and water holding capacity (WHC)
• Sanitation and reusability
• Weight of the material
• Cost

Before committing to either clay pebbles or perlite, you need to figure out which one is best for your chosen hydroponic setup. Let us dive into some more details about each of these media, to help you figure out which is the right one for you.

What are clay pebbles?

One of the most popular soilless media used in hydroponic systems is clay pebbles. Also known as hydroton or LECA (lightweight expanded clay aggregate), clay pebbles are actually expanded clay balls heated in a rotary kiln at 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit. The material is designed to be lightweight, porous, and convenient for harvesting. It is also made of organic substances that do not affect the chemical composition in the water, making this an ideal substrate for your hydroponic garden.

So, are clay pebbles good for plants? Yes, they are! In fact, clay pebbles can provide better aeration to the plant’s root system compared with soil or sand. Since clay pebbles have tiny pores on their surface, they are capable of storing nutrients so that they are available for your plants at any time. Hence, they assist in the proper uptake of the nutrient solution into a plant’s root system.

If you are thinking of setting up a hydroponic system using clay pebbles, we highly recommend the organic clay pebbles from Cz Garden Supply. Just be aware, though, that not all plants do best with clay pebbles. 

Let us explore, below, some of the pros and cons of using clay pebbles.

Pros of using clay pebbles:

• Clay pebbles have high porosity which means water can flow easily through the material. This prevents the water from getting backed up in your hydroponic system.
• Clay pebbles can be cleaned and reused, making them an eco-friendly solution. Although they are made of organic materials, they do not degrade easily. 
• Clay pebbles provide good aeration to the roots, thus preventing root rot.
• Clay pebbles are more economical to use for small-scale home hydroponic systems. 
• Unlike with soil-grown plants, clay pebbles do not attract pests. The shape of the pebbles also makes it challenging for almost any type of bug to settle in.
• Clay pebbles have a neutral pH, meaning you only need to monitor your water’s pH swings, which is easier to manage than a soil-based garden.
• Since clay pebbles do not cling to plants, it is easier to plant and harvest without physical exertion.
• Clay pebbles are sterile, durable, and stable. They can also be used ornamentally for your indoor and outdoor plants.

Cons of using clay pebbles:

• Clay pebbles must be thoroughly cleaned before placing them in a hydroponics system. Otherwise, the dust and sediment can clog the pumps and pipes.
• Cold temperatures can easily make clay pebbles brittle. Hence, they are not ideal for use in areas with cold climates.
• Clay pebbles must be soaked until they are saturated. Otherwise, they will end up floating in your hydroponic solution, clogging the drains, pumps, filters, and other equipment.
• Clay pebbles have poor water retention properties, meaning they will dry out pretty quickly. Hence, they are best used in deep water culture setups.
• Clay pebbles can be very expensive if used in large-scale setups.

What is perlite?

Perlite is another substrate that is popular in hydroponics, because it is porous, lightweight, and low-cost. It is made by heating volcanic glass or silica in a kiln until it expands to 20 times its original size. Aside from hydroponic gardening, these small nodules also have several applications in the construction industry where they are used for insulation, ceiling tiles, and lightweight plaster.

What makes perlite useful in hydroponic setups is its excellent drainage capabilities. Aside from being used as a filler, it is also great at holding water while providing good aeration for the roots to breathe. Two of the most popular perlite brands for hydroponics are HARRIS and Cz Garden Organics.

While perlite is suitable for deep water culture and drip irrigation systems, it is not a great choice if you are building an aquaponics setup because it can contaminate the system’s water reservoir. The fish in the tank can easily suffocate on the fine particles, causing death and collapse of the entire system.

Pros of using perlite

• Perlite has great air-holding capacity, allowing the roots to breathe and preventing root rot.
• Perlite is sanitary and highly resistant to fungal infestations.
• Perlite is non-toxic and reusable.
• Perlite is cheaper than clay pebbles, making it a more economical option for larger setups.
• Perlite has a lighter weight than clay pebbles even after being soaked, meaning it is easier to move or manipulate it.
• Similar to clay pebbles, perlite also has a neutral pH. This means it will not disrupt plants that are sensitive to pH swings.
• Perlite has good water retention capabilities.
• Perlite does not affect the nutrient solution of your hydroponic system as it does not contain any chemicals or nutrients.

Cons of using perlite

• Perlite is not a renewable resource; it is a mined mineral.
• Similar to clay pebbles, perlites must be cleaned thoroughly to avoid dust and particles from contaminating the hydroponic system.
• Some plants with aggressive root systems can cause blockages in this substrate.
• As mentioned previously, perlite is not a suitable growing medium for aquaponics systems due to its tendency to suffocate and kill the fish in the tank.
• Perlite is not ideal for ebb and flow systems since it is easily washed away by flowing water.
• Perlite can float in water due to its light weight, and possibly clog your hydroponic system. Hence, it is best used in combination with other growing media such as coconut fiber.

Conclusion

Choosing the right growing medium is essential for the successful growth of healthy plants in a hydroponic garden. In this guide, we have discussed the numerous attributes of both clay pebbles and perlite, and why they make excellent options for your hydroponics setup. Hopefully, after you have gone over the pros and cons of each of these growing media, you will have a better idea of which is the best choice for you.

Image: istockphoto.com / CemSelvi

A constant supply of fresh, organic vegetables can be quite expensive. But did you know that you can grow your own vegetables, like cauliflower, from scratch? 

The good news is that you can propagate the fresh cuttings from this favorite vegetable that you would normally throw away. This will not only help you save on food costs and reduce waste; growing your own also guarantees fresh and nutrient-rich cauliflowers compared with certain store-bought specimens.

If you are curious about how to grow your own cauliflower from scraps, this short guide is for you. Read on to learn how to grow this superfood in your own garden, out of just leftovers.

Why grow cauliflower?

Cauliflower is widely known as one of the healthiest vegetables out there, because it is rich in nutrients and antioxidants that help fight cancer. Cauliflower contains choline, sulforaphane, and sulfur, all of which are beneficial for brain development, gut health, and the immune system. A lot of fitness fanatics also praise this superfood due to its high fiber content that can aid weight loss. 

Aside from its nutritional value, a lot of people like growing cauliflower simply for its delicious taste. This is a versatile vegetable – you can add the florets to your salads or cook it as a main dish. 

There are many ways to grow cauliflower. While the best approach is to grow it from seed, surprisingly, you can also grow this superfood from scraps. This inexpensive method will help you save the parts you do not want to eat and reduce your domestic food waste. No need to spend a lot of money buying new plants – you can literally grow your own from your vegetable leftovers! Hence, growing cauliflower from scraps is both friendly to the environment and to your pocket. 

Can you plant cauliflower from scraps?

It might seem impossible, but the answer is yes – you can grow a cauliflower from scraps!

Often, we use just the cauliflower florets for cooking and eating, and throw away the other parts (although they can also be eaten). But, instead of tossing the cauliflower leftovers into your compost, why not grow them in your garden?

Most plants, including cauliflowers, have the ability to grow new roots from fresh cuttings. You can take advantage of this natural process to reduce your food waste and start your own vegetable plot.

But how exactly does growing cauliflowers from scraps work? 

All you need is a fresh cauliflower stalk with the heads cut and a shallow container with some water. Any beginner can follow this simple process, although it might take some time and patience to see the little roots start growing.

But here is the catch – growing vegetables from scraps is not usually the best approach if you want to grow a robust, full-sized cauliflower plant. This is mostly true if you buy your produce from grocery stores, as these vegetables are likely kept in cold storage for a long time, thus losing some of their flavor and nutritional content. If you are growing your cauliflower from scraps, you will likely never achieve the size or quality of florets that you might be expecting. Instead, the result is usually smaller cauliflower heads.

So, if you are a serious grower and want to produce healthy, full-sized plants in your garden, then it is better to grow them from seeds or plant seedlings. This process will provide you with faster growth and better yields as the plants have not undergone treatments or been placed in cold storage.

But, if you are up for the challenge, then growing your own cauliflower from scraps is still a fun activity. It could be a great experiment to teach your kids how to plant, or simply to avoid adding more food waste to your compost heap. Growing your cauliflower from scraps can also give you a bit of excitement and something to look forward to as your vegetable stalks begin to grow new roots.

Steps to grow cauliflower from scraps

Growing your own cauliflower from scraps will demand some time and patience. These are the steps you should follow:

1. Prepare healthy cauliflower scraps

First things first, prepare some good cuttings. When you are ready to cook your cauliflower, make sure to set aside the base, which you normally would not eat. Remember that the scraps have to be fresh when planted.

Simply cut off the cauliflower florets at least a few inches from the base. You can then use the heads in your salad or cooking and use the remaining lower for your next step. Make sure the stalk is free from any leaves or bits of florets.

2. Place the cauliflower scraps in a shallow container of water

Water is the key ingredient to encourage the growth of new roots from your vegetable scraps. To facilitate this, you will need to prepare a shallow container with a little bit of water. 

The goal is to keep the cauliflower base soaked without drowning the whole plant or causing it to rot. Thus, the water must be at just the right level so as not to submerge the entire stalk. Make sure that the base of the scrap is facing down while the chopped part faces up.

Once you have placed the scraps in their containers, do not forget to change the water every two days or so. Stagnant water can promote bacterial growth as the stems sit in the water for a long time. By changing the water regularly, you will keep your plants fresh and prevent the scraps from starting to smell or decompose.

3. Find a suitable growing area

A good location is another important factor for the successful growth of your cauliflower scraps. Since cauliflowers are a cool-weather crop, they do better in areas with temperatures below 80 degrees Fahrenheit. 

And, like most vegetables, cauliflowers also need at least six hours of light every day, so make sure to position the containers where your plants will receive lots of sunlight. 

4. Transfer the established cauliflower plant

Cauliflower scraps need a week or less to grow new roots. Once you see that the root structures and leaves have begun to form, you can transfer the plant to its permanent growing medium. Some growers might prefer planting their cauliflower straight into their garden soil. However, if your backyard is not suitable for gardening, you can also transfer your plant into a pot.

To plant the new cauliflower plants in your garden, there are a few simple tips you should follow to ensure a good harvest after a few weeks. First, try to find a good location where your plants will receive lots of sunlight. Young cauliflower plants need lots of bright light for photosynthesis, which is a critical process for plants to produce energy. This energy is required for seedlings to continue growing and blooming until they reach maturity.

Another important factor is the quality of the soil. Like most plants, cauliflowers require well-draining soil to grow well and avoid fungal diseases. If your garden soil is too dense or compact, it would be better to transfer your plant to a pot. If you have more than one plant, make sure that they are eight inches apart from one another to allow them enough space to grow.

Tips for growing cauliflower from scraps

Here are a few tips for successfully growing cauliflower from scraps that might otherwise have been tossed onto your compost heap:

• Transfer your cauliflower plants once the roots have grown about two to three inches long.
• Gradually acclimatize the young plants to the outdoors by taking them out once a week to begin with. This will help strengthen them before their permanent move to your garden beds.
• Avoid using chemicals on your new plants as this can easily turn them purple or brown. It is best to use organic materials like compost or mulch to improve the soil quality and retain enough moisture.
• Make sure that the soil has good aeration and is rich in nutrients. Cauliflower roots need both oxygen and macronutrients to grow properly.
• Water your plants well, but avoid underwatering or overwatering, as both can have detrimental effects on your plants.
• Maintain the appropriate soil pH – preferably between 6 and 7.
• Clear your garden soil of weeds to ensure optimum growth of your cauliflower plants.
• Protect your young plants from pests and diseases by covering them with fleece or horticultural mesh. Monitor the cauliflower heads from time to time to ensure that no pests are hiding underneath them.

Conclusion

If you are looking for clever ways to save on your food bills, then growing cauliflower from scraps might be a good idea! This process is simple and fun to do, especially during the spring. Aside from growing your own organic food, you will also be reducing your household waste.

Keep in mind, though, that growing cauliflower from scraps might not result in a full-sized cauliflower plant. Instead of a large head, you are more likely to end up harvesting a few smaller heads. But that is okay – if your goal is to save some money and reduce kitchen waste, then growing cauliflowers and other vegetables from scraps is definitely worth a try!

Image: istockphoto.com / RobinsonThomas

Everyone loves a relaxing view of a lush, green lawn in the summertime. If you are looking for a solution to transform your barren yard into a verdant oasis, then you might want to consider hydroseeding. 

But how long does hydroseed actually take to grow? Is it better than sodding or traditional seeding? Let us take an in-depth view of some of its benefits and why this is a favorite option among homeowners.

What is hydroseeding?

Whether you want to beautify your existing lawn or revitalize an old yard, hydroseeding offers a convenient solution without draining your wallet. Unlike traditional seeding, this clever process allows grass to grow quickly by spreading a special type of grass slurry on bare ground. This slurry mixture is composed of mulch, water, grass seeds, biostimulants, tackifying agents, fertilizer, and green dye. 

How does hydroseeding work?

Hydroseeding is a pretty straightforward procedure. First, the slurry has to be prepared by mixing all the above-mentioned ingredients. Professional lawn care companies usually have their own large hydroseeder tank where all the elements are combined. Once the mixture is ready, a trained professional spray it evenly over the tilled soil using a high-pressure hose.

If you want to save money, you can also purchase hydroseeding DIY kits, such as Hydro Mousse Liquid Lawn. The kit comes with its own spray head, canister, grass blend, and the product’s unique mixture. The process is basically the same – just spray the mixture on your barren lawn and wait for the grass to germinate. It goes without saying, however, that you would get the best results if this is done by a professional. So, if you have the extra money to spare, it is still best to let the lawn care company do the job for you.

How long does hydroseed take to grow?

Depending on the grass type, hydroseed generally takes five to 30 days to germinate. If you are using Bermudagrass or Kentucky bluegrass, then you should start seeing some growth in around 30 days. You can also try other grass varieties like ryegrass, which only needs five days to germinate.

You also need to ensure that the grass receives proper care and maintenance. That means you should water it regularly and feed it with a high-quality fertilizer every three to four weeks. Provided your area does not have any weather extremes, your lawn grass should grow about three inches in a month. 

How long before you can walk on the hydroseed grass?

Keep in mind that during the first weeks of grass growth, your lawn is still fragile and sensitive to foot traffic. Make sure to avoid walking on the grass, or walk carefully while you are watering it. Overall, you will need to wait about 15 weeks before your lawn can handle light foot traffic. After a year, the grass should be well established and can tolerate heavy foot traffic.

Pros and cons of hydroseeding

So, is hydroseeding really worth it? Before we jump to conclusions, let us review some of its pros and cons.

Overall, hydroseeding beats traditional seeding and sod in several ways. Some benefits of hydroseeding are summarized below:

• Hydroseeding offers a stable process that ensures the seeds stay in the soil without being easily blown away by a strong wind.
• The water used in the process not only helps spread the seeds evenly but also provides moisture for proper growth.
• Hydroseeding can help you save on time, materials, labor, and money.
• Hydroseeding evenly covers your bare lawn. The technique is also great at covering challenging areas like slopes and roadsides that are too steep for laying sod.
• Hydroseeding is beneficial for erosion control, vegetation restoration, soil renovation, hillside stabilization, and beautification of residential lawns.

On the other hand, hydroseeding can have some disadvantages, too. Some of the cons of the process are:

• Slower growth rate compared to sodding.
• Intensive watering during the first few weeks of growth.
• DIY hydroseeding kits might be less effective than traditional seeding or DIY sod.

Factors to consider before hydroseeding

Hydroseeding might not be suitable for all lawns. Before you purchase a DIY hydroseeding kit or hire a lawn care company, make sure to review the factors below as these can all affect the health and appearance of your lawn:

1. Soil preparation

The soil environment can make or break the final results of the hydroseeding process. Hence, your lawn must be prepared before any seed planting takes place. Preparation generally includes the removal of weeds, large rocks, building materials like wood or bricks, and any buried debris larger than three inches in diameter.

Rough grading of the site is also essential to reduce severe slopes and fill in any low-lying areas. 

2. Topsoil quality

The top two to five inches of soil must be soft and fertile to allow the grass seeds to establish a decent root system. Unfortunately, not everyone has the privilege of owning a lawn with good-quality topsoil. If this is your case, you will need to supplement your bare ground with fertilizer prior to any soil amendments.

Tiling the top two inches of soil will also be beneficial to alleviate subsoil compaction. By doing this, the soil aeration can be improved, allowing deeper root penetration as well as water movement.

3. Watering frequency

The hydroseed mixture must be moist at all times to encourage the seeds to sprout. Hence, a lot of watering will be required right after planting the grass seeds – preferably twice a day for three weeks. After one month, you can reduce the watering frequency so that the grass roots can penetrate deeper into the soil. Once the roots have fully grown, you can reduce the frequency to once a week.

4. Season

What is the best time of year to hydroseed?

For the best results, gardening experts recommend hydroseeding during summer or fall when the soil is warmer. Grass seeds germinate quickly when the soil is about 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Hence, it is not advisable to hydroseed during the cold seasons, as the grass seeds will go dormant until the weather warms up again.

5. Type of grass

As mentioned before, the type of grass seed can influence the speed of your lawn’s growth. That is because some grass varieties have faster germination rates than others. So make sure to consider this before making any soil improvements on your property.

Common reasons for hydroseed not growing

If you are not seeing visible progress after hydroseeding, despite all your efforts, then something is clearly not right. The most common reason your seeds are not growing is a lack of moisture. As previously mentioned, grass seeds require lots of watering to encourage the growth of roots. 

But there could be several other issues, too, that can affect the growth of your lawn grass. These are summarized below:

1. Lack of proper soil preparation

Proper soil preparation is critical when it comes to growing grass seeds. If the soil is of poor quality, the chances of the seeds being washed out are high. Poor soil conditions can also inhibit root development, meaning your hydroseed lawn will not grow.

2. Not enough water

After hydroseeding, the grass seeds must be watered two to four times every day to keep them hydrated. If you live in an area with a particularly hot climate, you must increase your watering frequency to prevent the seeds from drying. Dried seeds will not germinate, leading to the failure of the whole hydroseeding process.

3. Washouts

Washouts can happen during extreme weather conditions, like heavy rainfalls with strong winds. The seeds are washed off or blown away before their roots can penetrate deeply into the soil, and this causes poor growth or hydroseeding failure. In this case, you may need to respray the affected areas of your lawn.

To increase your chances of success, make sure to choose a hydroseed mixture with high-quality binders. Also, keep yourself updated on the weather forecast so you can choose the right time to hydroseed and avoid wasting your precious seeds.

4. Foot traffic trauma

Grass seeds are vulnerable to foot traffic damage during the early stages of growth. Walking on hydroseeded areas can disrupt seed germination and inhibit proper growth. Hence, it is best to protect your new lawn from young children, curious visitors, and pets until the grass has fully developed. 

5. Insufficient sunlight

Like any other plant, your grass seedlings need sufficient sunlight in order to become green, strong, and bushy. 

Hydroseeding a shaded area might produce problematic grass leaves that appear long and unattractive. The blades will also be weaker and more vulnerable to injury, plant disease, and pests. It is better to hydroseed those areas that have access to direct sunlight. 

Conclusion

If you are planning to turn your boring lawn into a beautiful green landscape, you might find hydroseeding a great and affordable option. Although it does require some hard work if you opt for the DIY method, the result will be worth your time and effort. For better results, we do recommend getting professional help to ensure the success of your hydroseeding endeavor.

Unlike laying sod, hydroseeding requires a bit of patience as the grass might take longer to grow. However, it is also more cost-effective than sod, and provides faster results than traditional seeding. That makes hydroseeding the middle-of-the-road solution when it comes to labor, cost, and growth rate. Through the hydroseeding process, you are sure to end up with a hardy, healthy, and attractive lawn, with minimal cost and effort!

Image: istockphoto.com / Valeriy_G

If you are new to the gardening world, you have probably heard of Anthurium’s reputation as one of the most popular ornamental plants. These flowering evergreens are well-loved by many due to their striking foliage and flowers. But do you know that there are many varieties of Anthurium? Two varieties – crystallinum and clarinervium – are particularly common in households and offices.

Crystallinum and clarinervium are actually very much alike, which begs the question – what is the difference between these two plants? If you are not aware of the different varieties, you would probably even mistake one plant for the other! 

This guide will go into detail about the differences between Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium so that in the future, when you encounter either one, you will not be confused again.

Anthurium plant overview

Before discussing the detailed differences and similarities between Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium, let us have a quick overview of these popular ornamental plants. 

Anthurium crystallinum

Anthurium crystallinum, also known as crystal Anthurium, is favored by many plant lovers for its beautiful ornamental leaves, which are large, heart-shaped, and decorated with unique patterns of silvery veins. Crystallinum blends perfectly with any landscape, whether you grow it indoors or out!

As long as the plant is grown under favorable conditions, its flowers can bloom in any season. The crystallinum is also not fussy when it comes to growing requirements – just give it the right care and a bit of your attention to enjoy its attractive foliage and flowers for many years to come.

Anthurium clarinervium

Anthurium clarinervium, also known as velvet cardboard Anthurium, is a flowering plant native to Mexico. Like its crystallinum cousin, this stunning houseplant is an epiphyte, meaning that it grows on tree trunks and other plants. Although the clarinervium is well-acclimatized to hot regions, it can also adapt well to cooler temperatures. This means that growing a clarinervium is not a headache – it is highly adaptable and does not demand a lot. 

Perhaps the only challenge of growing a clarinervium is its slow growth rate. But, with enough time and patience, you will be rewarded with striking flowers and thick, leathery foliage worthy of display.

Anthurium crystallinum versus clarinervium – the differences

Although crystallinum and clarinervium might seem similar at first glance, these plants do have a lot of different features that make them stand out from one another.

1. Speed of growth

Anthurium plants tend to grow taller outdoors than indoors, where they can reach a height of up to 12 inches.

But when it comes to growth rate, crystallinum grows faster than clarinervium. Its buds and aerial roots multiply quickly and it therefore appears denser when compared with its clarinervium cousin.

Clarinervium is relatively slower to grow and requires a more complicated care routine. You might find this plant a bit challenging to maintain – not to mention its expensive price tag.

Overall, if you want a variety that is easy to grow and propagate, then Anthurium crystallinum is clearly the winner.

2. Berries and seeds

Another way to distinguish between crystallinum and clarinervium is through the seeds and the color of the berries.

Anthurium crystallinum produces berries that are white at first, and later turn purple as they reach maturity. Anthurium clarinervium grows white berries as well, but these later turn orange as the plant grows older.

Another important feature is the size of the berries. If you look closely, the clarinervium has larger berries that contain more seeds. This is also why this variety has a slower growth rate.

The berries of crystallinum, on the other hand, are smaller in size since they only contain a single seed.

3. Foliage

If you do not have a keen eye, you might easily mistake the leaves of these two Anthurium varieties as replicas of one another. But, if you look closer, you will notice that the shapes and patterns of the foliage actually have several differences. 

One noticeable feature that makes these Anthuriums different is the thickness of the leaves. The clarinervium has thicker leaves that appear leathery and robust, while those of the crystallinum are the exact opposite – thinner and fragile-looking. 

When it comes to the shape, both varieties have almost the same heart-shaped leaves. But experienced botanists can tell the slight difference – the heart shape of the clarinervium’s leaves is more noticeable, while the crystallinum’s are slightly bit elongated.

You can also differentiate between crystallinum and clarinervium by the color of their leaves. Crystallinum produces brighter leaves, whereas clarinervium leaves appear darker. Hence, the silver vein pattern of crystallinum foliage is more vibrant than that of the clarinervium.

4. Reproduction process

Anthurium crystallinum follows a vegetative process to reproduce, while Anthurium clarinervium reproduces generatively. That is why the latter grows more flowers and seeds, which makes it grow a bit slower. But, if you have the patience, it will reward you with larger, elegant-looking flowers to show off to your guests.

Both crystallinum and clarinervium can be propagated through cuttings, seed pollination, or division. While any novice gardener can easily employ these methods, each plant does have its own set of problems while growing. So, be sure to provide the optimal care for your Anthuriums if you have decided to grow and reproduce them.

Anthurium crystallinum vs clarinervium – the similarities

Most of the similarities between crystallinum and clarinervium are linked to their growing requirements. Hence, whether you choose a crystallinum or a clarinervium – or both, there should be no difference when it comes to caring for these ornamental plants. Some of the similarities they share are:

1. Temperature and humidity

Humidity and temperature both play an important role in the proper growth of Anthuriums. To grow and maintain luxuriant foliage and flowers, the environmental temperature must be around 55 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity levels must be between 55 to 65 percent. 

Neither the crystallinum nor the clarinervium will survive well in freezing temperatures. Hence, you should protect these precious plants from frost to avoid irreversible damage to their leaves and tissues.

2. Watering requirements

Both Anthurium crystallinum and clarinervium need to be watered about three times a week, especially during spring and summer, to thrive. These plants want moist but not waterlogged soil, so make sure not to overwater them, or risk root rot. 

The best time to water your Anthurium is when the topsoil is 50 to 75 percent dry. Most gardeners check the dryness of the soil using the finger test. However, for more accurate results, you might want to consider a soil moisture probe that can easily be purchased online.

3. Ideal soil

Both these Anthurium varieties have the same soil requirements, too! Being epiphytes, they thrive well in loose and well-draining soil. Do not plant them in traditional garden soil or clay soil, as this medium can retain too much water and damage the root system. 

Anthuriums also love nutrient-rich, slightly acidic soil, within a range of pH 5.5 to 6.5. If you are not sure about your soil’s acidity, we recommend testing it with a soil pH meter. There are several brands you can purchase on Amazon, such as SONKIR, that will help you check your soil condition from time to time.

The ideal potting mix should have a blend of 25 percent bark, 25 percent perlite, and 50 percent sphagnum to help your Anthuriums reach their full potential. Using orchid soil mixed with sand and peat moss should also work well for these ornamental plants.

4. Lighting requirements

Most Anthurium species originated from the exotic rainforests of Central and South America where they grow under the canopy of trees. Hence, both crystallinum and clarinervium do best in areas with partial or indirect sunlight. All they need is at least six hours of indirect light per day to grow well and stay happy. However, keep in mind that they might not survive in direct sunlight, as the intense heat will likely burn their leaves. 

5. Fertilization

As with other houseplants, Anthuriums grow better and faster with fertilizer. We suggest feeding your plants with a fertilizer rich in nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium for stronger roots, stems, and foliage. However, make sure to fertilize them only during the growing seasons. Do not fertilize during winter, as plants at this time will generally go dormant and the excess nutrients could do more harm than good.

6. Plant size

When it comes to size, both Anthuriums can reach the same width – about 15 inches. However, the two do have slight differences in height, with crystallinum reaching 30 inches and clarinervium growing to 25 inches. Still, it is noteworthy to mention since their almost similar sizes can easily confuse a novice gardener when the plants are placed side by side.

Conclusion

Anthurium crystallinum and Anthurium clarinervium are often mistaken for the same plant, due to their very similar looks and requirements. However, these stunning perennials do actually have some differences in their foliage, berries, growth rate, and the way they reproduce. These distinctions are important to know so that you can decide which Anthurium plant is the right one for you. Hopefully, through this guide, any doubt and confusion have been set aside and you can easily distinguish the crystallinum from the clarinervium with a single glance!

Image: istockphoto.com / Ganjar Pandu

Jalapeno peppers are not only delicious but also versatile chilies that can be added to any dish. And, thankfully, these plants are not difficult to grow! So if you love growing vegetables in your garden to have a fresh supply of produce, you should definitely consider adding this popular chili pepper to your collection.

To increase your chance of successfully growing your own jalapeno plant, it is important to have some basic understanding of its growth cycle. There are six jalapeno plant stages that every grower should know about: the seedling stage, adolescent stage, growth stage, maturation stage, flowering stage, and fruiting stage. The plant requires different care at each stage, so you need to understand these changes if you want to reap good yields at the end of the growing season.

How long does a jalapeno take to grow?

Planning to grow your own jalapeno plants in your backyard? The good news is that this variety of bell pepper is known to grow pretty quickly and can produce ready-to-harvest fruits from as early as 65 days, depending on the variety. For most peppers, though, the typical harvest time is around day 70 to 80.

These tasty chilies grow in hardiness zones 9 through 11, which means they do best in warmer climates. If you grow the peppers annually, you can expect a harvest around late summer to early fall. Or, if you have an indoor garden, you can grow them year-round as long as you provide them with the correct lighting, temperature, moisture, and nutrient-rich soil. 

One thing to keep in mind is that jalapenos are quite sensitive to cold temperatures – even the slightest frost can damage the fruits. Thus, you need to protect your plants during the winter if they are planted outdoors, by covering them with frost blankets to prevent frost damage.

What are the different jalapeno plant stages?

1. Germination and seedling stage

All plants, whether they are vegetables or flowers, follow the same pattern of growth, from seed to maturity. At week zero, the jalapeno seeds begin to germinate with the help of soil nutrients, a bit of moisture, and proper temperatures. The plants become active for the first time, and with the right growing conditions, they will begin to sprout and develop true leaves. The whole process from seed germination to the seedling stage generally takes about three weeks.

Now, growing jalapeno seedlings require close monitoring since they can be extra sensitive to temperatures, moisture levels, and lighting. Jalapenos, just like their other pepper cousins, need warmth to stimulate the growth of roots. Make sure the seedlings are grown at temperatures above 65 degrees Fahrenheit and receive 12 to 16 hours of direct sunlight every day. Grow lights also work if you cannot provide sufficient hours of sunlight. We recommend setting artificial lights at 12 to 24 inches above the leaves. Keep the soil moist but avoid overwatering it. 

After one to two weeks of sprouting, you may apply a high-nitrogen fertilizer reduced to a quarter or half strength. Avoid using the full dosage as the tiny seedlings will not need that much fertilizer at this growth stage.

2. Adolescent stage

At week three or four, you should notice the seedlings producing a set of true leaves. At this point, your jalapeno is in the adolescent stage of its growth cycle. This is the perfect time to transplant the seedlings from their seed trays to larger containers. You can use a standard potting mix as your plants are now ready to absorb more nutrients.

Applying fertilizer at full strength during this growth stage will be more beneficial to your plants. Either granular or water-soluble fertilizers work perfectly fine for bell peppers. 

As for lighting requirements, the 16 hours of sunlight exposure should be maintained as the plants begin to grow taller and stronger. Keep the soil moist but not overly saturated.

3. Growth stage

Jalapeno plants enter the growth stage starting at week four to eight. This is where the young plants begin to produce characteristic foliage and a stronger root system. At this stage, the growth speed of your jalapenos is evident as the plants become more established.

To support their growth, your young jalapeno plants must be transplanted to their second larger container (if you have not done this previously) to accommodate new growth. Most importantly, feed your plants with nitrogen-rich fertilizer to encourage the growth of green foliage. Nutrient-deficient soil can trigger yellowing of the leaves.

If your young jalapenos are growing pepper flowers, trim them off using a sterilized pair of scissors. Pruning your plants this way will force them to focus all their energy and resources on growing a more extensive root system.

Lastly, continue feeding your plants with full-dose fertilizer and placing them in full direct sunlight (or grow lights).

4. Maturation stage

Jalapeno plants should reach maturity within two to four months after germination. At this stage, transplanting them into their final containers is recommended as you prepare them for the outdoor environment – a process known as ‘hardening off.’ 

The maturation stage of your plants greatly affects their yields, so make sure to provide them with lots of nutrients and appropriate lighting. It is also recommended to plant the jalapenos in a container with a minimum size of three gallons so they can grow as full and large as possible.

Peppers, in general, do best in soil with a pH of 6 to 6.5, so do check the soil regularly using a soil pH meter. Also remember that jalapenos can grow about two to three feet and will need enough space for their roots and foliage, so plant them about 18 to 24 inches apart from each other. As for water and fertilizer requirements, continue as before for the best yields. 

5. Flowering stage

The flowering stage is the next phase of the jalapeno’s growth cycle. By this time – about two to four weeks after they have been transplanted outdoors – your plants should start producing flowers. Expert growers recommend cutting off any premature flowers so the plant can continue growing more leaves and stems.

Since your plants are now at the flowering stage, they no longer need to receive high-nitrogen fertilizer. Instead, you can add a phosphorus-rich fertilizer (like Neptune’s Harvest) to your plant care regimen. Phosphorus is an essential nutrient that helps growing plants absorb more energy from the sun. The increased energy store will ensure proper fruit development and continued growth for a higher yield.

Jalapeno plants produce white, bell-shaped flowers, often in groups of two or three. At this time, your pepper plants are ready for pollination to produce fruits.

If you notice a few flower buds dropping off, do not panic – this is normal. You should only worry if your jalapeno flowers are constantly falling off, as this is indicative of plant stress. Some of the common causes of dropping flowers include poor pollination, overwatering, and exposure to high temperatures. Make sure to monitor these factors if you think your jalapenos are losing too many flowers.

6. Fruiting stage

The fruiting stage is the last part of the jalapeno growth cycle. When the flowers are successfully fertilized, the petals begin to drop off and give way to the development of the fruits and seeds. During this time, the flower’s ovary turns into a fleshy pericarp that eventually thickens and swells into a fruit. The pericarp encloses a few locular chambers that house the pepper’s seeds. Once they are mature and ready to harvest, the fruits should be about three to five inches long and firm to the touch.

Once again, jalapenos in this growth stage will not need high-nitrogen fertilizers, since they will not need much support for foliar growth. Instead, they will need support for healthier flowers and fruits, meaning they will benefit most from a high-phosphorus fertilizer.

When you see your jalapenos producing light green fruits, congratulations! Your patience and hard work have paid off, and you will have fruits ready to harvest in the coming days. 

Jalapeno peppers normally turn from light green to dark green as they ripen. If you want to keep your peppers green for your salads, then harvest them at this time. Otherwise, the ripening process will continue and the fruits will turn black and finally bright red, which is the last stage of the ripening process. 

For the best yields, it is recommended to pick your peppers as soon as they turn the desired color. Leaving the peppers unharvested will inhibit the development of the younger fruits and cause smaller yields. By harvesting the ripe peppers, you are allowing your plant to allocate more energy to the production of further peppers before the growing season ends.

Lastly, keep your jalapeno plants well cared-for, even after the harvest, so that they will continue growing new flowers and peppers in the future. Provide them with lots of direct sunlight and rich, moist soil to keep them happy and thriving!

Conclusion

Witnessing the different growing stages of your jalapeno plants can be exciting – right from the seedling up to the fruiting stage. Hopefully, through this article, you have gained a sufficient understanding of the growth cycle and are ready to grow this beautiful spice in your own garden!

Image: istockphoto.com / xiao zhou

Broccoli is a hardy, annual vegetable that belongs to the Brassicaceae family. This cole crop is closely related to cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, and brussels sprouts, and grows best during the fall.

Broccoli is widely cultivated and consumed everywhere, thanks to its nutritional content. This vegetable is incredibly good for you, being rich in iron, fiber, vitamins, folic acid, and potassium. 

However, growing its nutrient-dense crowns requires your patience, as they take longer to mature than the leafy greens. The plants can also be a bit fussy when it comes to their growing conditions – they prefer a cooler climate and rich, moist soil to grow successfully.

As you might imagine, it is very helpful as a gardener to have a proper understanding of the broccoli plant’s different growing stages. With this knowledge, you can tend to the varying needs of your plants at each stage and successfully harvest its florets within a few months.

How long does it take broccoli to grow?

Broccoli is an annual vegetable that thrives in hardiness zones three to 10. Depending on the season and crop variety, these plants generally take 80 to 100 days before they are ready to harvest. 

If you plant the seeds during the spring, it is best to choose a variety with a shorter growth cycle so that you can start the harvest 50 to 60 days after transplant. If grown during mid-summer, you should have the green buds ready to harvest between day 60 to day 85.

Four broccoli plant growing stages

Broccoli might seem an intimidating vegetable to grow at home, especially since it needs ample time and space in your garden. But the reality is that this is a relatively easy-to-grow vegetable, provided you understand the growing process. You also need to know the plant’s basic requirements when it comes to soil, temperature, watering, fertilizer, and sunlight.

Broccoli goes through four different stages of growth – seed germination, seedling stage, vegetative stage, and flowering stage. So, before you plant this cool-season crop in your backyard, make sure you understand this cycle in order to successfully grow your own farm-to-table vegetables.

The broccoli plant growing stages are as follows:

1. Germination of broccoli seeds

The beginning of the broccoli plant’s growth, from a seed into a seedling, is called germination. At this stage, your broccoli seeds will need sufficient nutrients, water, oxygen, and temperature in order to sprout. 

During this developmental stage, plant your broccoli seeds indoors, in a seed-starting tray, about eight weeks prior to the date of the final frost. Make sure your precious seeds are kept at 75 degrees Fahrenheit until they begin to sprout. The soil mix must be moist at all times to ensure successful germination. 

2. Sprouting of broccoli seedlings

Your broccoli seeds will begin to sprout within ten days. At this point, you should move the seedlings to a cooler environment and maintain the growing temperature between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the seedlings indoors until they are about four weeks old.

Your plants should have grown about four or five mature leaves and some roots before you transplant them to garden soil or to a bigger container. The seedlings should be planted 12 to 20 inches apart in a row, with a space of three feet in between the rows.

Remember to keep the soil slightly moist but not waterlogged to encourage new growth. You may also feed your seedlings with a low-nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer to give them a boost.  

Keep in mind that, to succeed at this stage, the seedlings must be grown in a cool and moist medium or garden soil. Adding mulch over the soil can help to maintain the soil’s temperature and protect it from heat. 

You should also keep an eye out for cabbage worms, as these pests can severely damage your broccoli plants. Row covers should do the trick to protect your seedlings from any pest infestation.

3. The vegetative phase

During the vegetative stage, your broccoli seedlings should start expanding and growing more stems, roots, and leaves. The plants are now more established and mature enough to generate their own food source through the process of photosynthesis. Make sure to water them well and provide enough sunlight to encourage proper growth of the heads.

You might be wondering how long it takes for broccoli to form a head. Well, depending on the variety, broccoli should start producing heads about 70 days after the seeds were planted.

Broccoli typically grows between two and three feet tall. Some popular varieties produce a single large head at the center, while the others can have several smaller heads on top of the main stem. This is the end goal for most growers – to produce lovely broccoli heads that can be served up in the kitchen. The broccoli florets are not only a delicious addition to any meal, but also very healthy as they contain high amounts of vitamins and antioxidants.

The best time to harvest broccoli is when the heads have stopped growing in size. The buds should look dense and deep green. Using a sharp knife or pair of scissors, cut the main stem about five to six inches below the head. Do not saw at the stem, otherwise you may damage the plant and possibly ruin your next harvest.

If you see the broccoli buds turning yellow, it means that the florets are beginning to bloom, or bolt. At this point, you should harvest them immediately. 

4. Flowering and maturation

Once the growing season is over, the remaining florets will open and bloom into edible, yellow flowers. Just like the broccoli heads, you can enjoy these flowers as well by adding them to your salads. The unharvested flowers will be pollinated and produce seeds which you can later use to plant another batch of vegetables.  

This final growing stage starts anywhere between 45 to 65 days from the day you planted the seeds. If you are growing broccoli for the purpose of consuming the florets, make sure to harvest them before they begin to flower. Once the plant flowers and produces seeds, you can no longer harvest the florets. At this point, your broccoli plant has reached the end of its life cycle.

Conclusion

Growing your own broccoli at home can be a rewarding experience. By having these vegetables in your yard, you can harvest and consume them fresher than if you had bought them in a supermarket. You can cook them in many ways as well, as they are delicious and versatile greens. 

But, before you get your hands dirty in the garden, keep in mind that understanding the growing stages of broccoli is important to successfully growing it from seed to large, beautiful florets. Hopefully, through this guide, you will have the requisite knowledge on hand to produce your own garden-to-plate vegetables!

Image: istockphoto.com / enrouteksm

Metal raised garden beds are loved for their durability and unique aesthetic, but they also come with a high price tag!

This article will tell you more about the pros and cons of metal raised garden beds, as well as their cheaper alternative.

What are raised garden beds?

Perhaps you have been dreaming of growing your own vegetables, herbs, and flowers at home. The problem is, the native soil in your backyard is not suitable for gardening. In this case, the best option is to plant in raised garden beds.

Raised beds provide the ease of growing several types of plants above ground level. Unlike in-ground beds, raised garden beds or garden boxes allow you control over the type of soil you use for your plants. If you are not lucky enough to have garden soil rich in organic materials and nutrients, then you can choose to purchase high-quality soil for your raised beds instead. 

Other benefits of raised gardens:

• The frame of the bed provides a barrier to keep the soil from eroding on rainy days.
• The elevation protects your greens from pests like slugs, snails, and rabbits. Damage caused by burrowing pests like gophers, moles, and voles will also be prevented.
• Raised beds help reduce back pain for gardeners with mobility issues.
• Raised beds are easier to manage since you can focus on caring for a smaller space intensively.
• Soil compaction and plant damage are less likely, since the elevation protects it from foot traffic.
• Raised garden beds that are well cared for will have fewer weeds, good drainage, a longer growing season, and are overall easier to maintain.

Raised garden beds can be constructed using various materials, with wood and metal being the most common options. So, you might be wondering, what is the best material to use for a raised garden bed?

Although some gardeners swear by the advantages of using wood or metal, the final choice will depend entirely on your personal preferences. Each material has its own pros and cons, so it is worth your time to do some research before making your decision.

Metal versus wooden raised garden beds

As mentioned before, the frame of your raised beds can be made from different materials, including stones, recycled plastic or wine bottles, concrete blocks, and the two most popular options – wood or metal.

Now, here is the tricky part – what is the safest choice of material for your raised garden bed? For those just starting their first raised beds, this question is quite common. In fact, even experienced gardeners have differing opinions when it comes to selecting the best material to use!

In a nutshell, wood and metal raised garden beds mainly differ in terms of price and longevity. When it comes to price and availability, wood is clearly the winner. But, if you are after durability and do not mind spending a few more bucks, then metal is the best way to go.

Pros of metal raised garden beds

Although wood is the traditional material used for raised bed frames, many gardening aficionados are currently showing a resurged interest in metal, for the following reasons: 

1. Offers a unique industrial look

One thing that sets metal beds apart from the others is their unique, industrial vibe. If you are keen on this type of aesthetic, it will definitely make a great addition to your landscape. Home growers often have good results with corrugated galvanized steel, as this is visually beautiful and super easy to maintain.

2. Easy to set up

Metal raised garden beds are generally the easiest to set up. Although they offer limited customization compared with wood, the metal frames do come in several sizes and shapes. You can even build a DIY metal raised bed if you have the time to spare!

Metal beds can be pre-built before delivery or flat-packed, depending on your preference. But do not worry – these materials are incredibly lightweight. You will not need a lot of help to build your metal garden bed, as long as you have all the tools required.

3. Durable and longer-lasting

Galvanized metal is built to last for more than 20 years, unlike wood, which degrades fairly easily. Depending on your soil type, it can take many years before you see the metal rusting. Most metal raised beds are also coated with zinc, which acts as an additional layer of protection from corrosion.

4. Does not rot

Galvanized metal does not rot, no matter how many times it is exposed to water. The galvanized layer, zinc alloy, will keep the metal from reacting to any elements in the soil which makes your raised garden bed even more robust and less prone to damage.

5. Improved soil quality

Since metal raised beds give you complete control over the type of soil you use, it is easier to decide the quality and volume of soil ideal for the particular plants you are growing. You can even add nutrients to give your plants an extra boost.  

But what about the safety of zinc-coated galvanized metal for your plants? 

Some growers might be concerned that the metal coating might leach into the soil, especially if they are growing vegetables and herbs. Here is the good news – galvanized metal is completely safe and should not cause any health concerns. 

Additionally, the soil has to be quite acidic to break down the zinc coating, and even then it might take a few decades before the coating completely breaks down. Therefore, this little amount will not have much impact on your plants and soil.

Zinc is also a naturally occurring element in the soil, so a minimal amount of leaching should not do any harm, even to food crops you may be growing. The only problem, however, is when the metal coating contains impurities that might cause lead pollution. Manufacturers are aware of this danger, which is why most metal coatings are only made with pure zinc or aluzinc-type alloys.  

Cons of metal raised garden beds

In brief, metal raised beds are guaranteed to last for decades with minimal corrosion, unlike wood. But nothing is perfect, so make sure to consider these cons before finally making your decision:

1. Exposed edges can cause injury

While metal bed frames can be really sturdy, they might also cause injuries if you are not careful around the sharp, exposed edges. To avoid accidents, you can make some adjustments to keep the area safe, especially if you have young children and pets at home. 

2. They are expensive

The durability of this material comes at a premium price! Some metal raised beds can cost between 60 and 70 dollars. This might be a huge initial investment, but it is definitely worth it if you do not want to deal with any fuss while tending to your garden plants. That said, if you do not have the extra money to pay for a good-quality metal garden bed, you are better off using a cheaper material like wood.

3. They can heat up quickly

Plants can be very sensitive to extreme heat, and unfortunately metals are good heat conductors. With your metal raised garden beds exposed to the scorching heat of the sun all day, they can overheat and damage your greens.

Unlike pots, raised garden beds cannot be moved to a new location, so you need to consider the location very carefully before building it. To reduce the risk of overheating, it is best to construct your raised bed in a partially-shaded area with just a few hours of sunlight exposure per day. You should also avoid growing plants that are particularly heat-sensitive.

4. Not ideal for acidic soil

Some garden plants like blueberries grow best in acidic soil. Unfortunately, acid can gradually corrode your metal beds and hence reduce their lifespan. So, make sure to consider the type of plants you will be growing before installing a metal bed frame in your garden.

Pros and cons of wooden raised garden beds

If you do not find metal raised beds a convenient option for now, then you can always go for wooden ones. Just like metal, this material comes with several pros and cons, as summarized below:

Pros of using wooden raised beds

• They look natural, which makes your garden look elegant.
• Wooden raised beds are easy to install.
• Wood is available everywhere and is cheaper than metal.
• If you are looking for customizability, then wood materials might be your best bet. You can salvage some old wood in your area, or purchase one like pine in your local hardware store.
• Wood is a good insulator; hence, it will not burn your plants even if exposed to the heat of the sun.

Cons of using wooden raised beds

• They will not last very long. Depending on the type of wood, some can last up to eight years. However, there are also rot-resistant woods available, such as redwood and cedar, if you are willing to pay the extra price. 
• Some woods are treated. If you purchase treated lumber and use it for your plants, certain chemicals like arsenic can leach into your soil. Arsenic-contaminated soils are toxic to both humans and plants, so make sure to check this out before building your wooden raised bed!

Which is better – metal or wooden raised garden beds?

Every gardener’s dream is to grow healthy, beautiful greens in the comfort of their backyard. Raised garden beds, especially those made from metal, are getting more attention lately due to their durability, convenience, and safety. But, the expensive price of metal beds can discourage some growers. For this reason, wood remains a cheap alternative for anyone looking for budget-friendly gardening boxes.

Thus, choosing between these two materials really depends on your preferences and how much you are willing to pay. 

Overall, metal raised beds offer the best value if you are looking for durability and convenience. They are also easy to assemble and lightweight, such as this galvanized planter box from GADI.

Woods, on the other hand, is cheaper and more customizable. Unfortunately, this material can also rot easily. Hence, you might need to replace it or do some repairs and maintenance to keep your beds in good condition.

Conclusion

Metal raised garden beds are aesthetically appealing while also increasing your success at growing almost any plant. However, make sure that you consider the right location and soil quality, to ensure your plants grow healthily and to their full potential!

Image: istockphoto.com / Campwillowlake

Pothos is one of the fastest-growing houseplants – given the right care and growing conditions, it can easily grow to several feet high. No wonder it is such a rewarding plant for beginners and experienced gardeners alike!

But exactly how fast does Pothos grow? And what are the tips and tricks to growing this vining plant faster? Here, we discuss the factors that affect Pothos’ growth, and how you can grow this plant beautifully to impress your house guests!

Are Pothos plants fast-growing?

One of the many reasons that make Pothos an attractive houseplant for novice gardeners is how quickly they can grow. Under the right conditions, you can easily propagate cuttings from this plant and turn your single Pothos into several houseplants in a relatively short time.

Pothos plants come in several different varieties. If you provide the right care and nutrition, the fastest-growing variety can grow from 12 to 18 inches every month. So, within a few years, you can be the proud owner of a giant, bushy Pothos in your indoor landscape.

Keep in mind, though, that some variegated Pothos varieties can grow more slowly. This is because these varieties tend to have lower levels of chlorophyll, which is what creates the white spots on their leaves. Their slower growth is actually a trade-off to achieve this unique pattern, which makes them more special than the faster-growing cultivars.

Some of the slow-growing Pothos varieties include:

• Glacier Pothos
• Marble Queen Pothos
• Snow Queen Pothos
• NJoy Pothos
• Manjula Pothos

If you prefer the fast-growing varieties, then you should choose a Jade Pothos or a Golden Pothos.

How fast does Pothos grow?

Growing a Pothos can be a rewarding experience for any gardener, whether you are a novice or well-experienced because you can turn this evergreen into a bushy houseplant with minimal effort.

Although it might take a few years before a Pothos reaches its maximum size, you should see it growing about four to six feet during each growing season. If you are propagating cuttings, you can expect the roots to grow about an inch per month, and your little Pothos should start growing leaves in the fourth or fifth month.

If you do not regularly prune your Pothos, the trailing vine can grow up to six feet wide and 40 feet high. But of course, its size might also depend on the variety and the container you have chosen for it. You can choose to grow your Pothos in a hanging basket from which it can cascade up to 20 feet downward, or let the vines crawl up your walls and reach up to 30 feet.

If you prefer your Pothos not to grow such long vines, cut it back a few inches from time to time to keep it to your desired size – especially if you are short on space in your living room or garden.

Pothos growing seasons

As with other tropical houseplants, Pothos plants grow best during the spring and summer when the temperature is between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep in mind that these plants are native to regions with warm and humid climates, so it is best to mimic these growing conditions to keep your tropical vines happy.

If you live in an area that has a tropical climate all year round, then caring for your Pothos will seem like a breeze – your plant can enjoy growing throughout the year without worrying about the seasons.

However, if you are growing your Pothos in a region with proper winters, you will need to protect it from the cold temperatures. The best time for it to grow will be spring and summer, and when the colder months arrive, it will stop growing and become dormant. You should reduce watering and avoid fertilizing your Pothos during this season. 

Common reasons your Pothos is not growing

Despite it being notoriously hardy, the Pothos plant is not immune to certain plant problems. If you find your plant growing more slowly than before, it might be time to do some investigation!

There are many possible reasons your Pothos may struggle with stunted growth, and we have summarized the most common culprits below:

• Your Pothos is going through its dormant period. As mentioned previously, most houseplants stop growing during the winter season, so do not worry if your Pothos does not show signs of growth at this time. Leave it alone for now, until spring and summer arrive.

• Your Pothos is underwatered. Growing a hardy plant like Pothos does not necessarily mean it will enjoy extended periods of neglect. Plants need water, too, to keep growing. Amid your busy lifestyle, do not forget to give your Pothos a drink or you may end up nursing a dying plant!

• Your Pothos is overwatered. This is the most common mistake among inexperienced growers – they are over-eager and water their plants without checking the soil condition first. Soggy soil can lead to root rot and quickly kill your plant, so make sure not to water your Pothos until you are sure that the top layer of soil has dried out.

• Your Pothos is sitting in poorly-drained soil. Just like overwatering, soil that holds excess water for extended periods can decay the roots quickly. Make sure to choose a soil mix with a loose texture and good aeration.

• Your Pothos is pest-infested. Sap-sucking insects can hamper your plant’s growth by feeding on the juice of its leaves and damaging them in the process. There are many treatments available to get rid of these bugs, depending on the type of infestation. Neem oil usually works for almost any type of pest. Otherwise, you could also combine this treatment with insecticidal soaps for better results.

• Your Pothos is lacking essential micro- and macronutrients. Growing the plant indoors limits it to the nutrients available in its pot. This is in contrast to its native environment, where it thrives in soil that is rich in organic matter. To boost its growth, make sure to feed your Pothos with a high-quality fertilizer every two to three months during the spring and summer.

• Your Pothos is not receiving enough light. Aside from slower growth, you will also notice leaf discolorations in light-deprived Pothos. We recommend choosing a location where your plant can soak in bright, indirect sunlight for several hours a day, or invest in artificial grow lights to encourage faster growth year-round.

How to make your Pothos grow super fast

The key to growing a healthy and bushy Pothos is to establish a proper care routine. Aside from speedy growth, a healthy Pothos is also more immune to pests and diseases. As long as this tropical vine is provided with the right growing conditions, maintaining its beauty throughout the year will be extremely easy.

Here are some of the sure-fire ways to grow your Pothos quickly:

1. Feed your Pothos with a good-quality fertilizer

Using a balanced liquid fertilizer is one of the best ways to encourage faster growth in your Pothos. Feed it once every two weeks during the spring and summer to keep it lush and bushy. That said, remember that Pothos are not heavy feeders, so we recommend diluting your fertilizer to half-strength before using it. To prevent root burn, do not fertilize your Pothos more than the suggested dose.

2. Use well-draining soil

The right potting mix for your Pothos should be loose and well-aerated. The ideal mix should contain perlite, coco peat, and regular potting soil. Avoid using garden soil, as this tends to retain a bit too much water and might drown the plant’s roots. Sandy soil is also not a good medium for Pothos, as this does not retain moisture well enough.

3. Do not overwater your Pothos

Overwatering is a surefire way to kill almost any houseplant, including your Pothos! To get your watering habits right, make sure to check the soil first using the finger test. Feel the top two inches of soil to assess whether it is moist or dry, and only give your Pothos a drink when the soil has dried.

That said, do not leave your Pothos in bone dry soil for an extended period! Underwatering can also be bad for your plants, and if your Pothos is not getting an adequate amount of water, it will lose its turgidity and begin to wilt.

4. Provide exposure to indirect sunlight

Pothos grows best under bright, indirect sunlight, and it likes about six to eight hours a day. Avoid leaving it in the path of direct sunlight, since the intense heat can be too harsh on its leaves and cause sunburn. 

East-facing windows or covered patios are some of the best locations to receive bright yet gentle sunlight. Windows facing south might work, too, as long as you use drapes or curtains to filter the sunlight.

If you cannot find a good location with indirect sunlight, you can use grow lights instead. These artificial lights will help take care of your plant’s light requirements no matter the season.

5. Protect your Pothos from pests

No one likes dealing with a pest infestation! To avoid these tiny bugs from freeloading on your beautiful plants, we recommend spraying them with neem oil once in a while. Also remember that a healthy and happy plant is more resistant to pest infestations.

6. Maintain a humid environment

Your Pothos grows best in a humid environment that mimics its natural habitat. Although there are many ways to boost your humidity indoors, the most reliable method is to install a humidifier. Avoid misting the leaves, especially at night, since this method can encourage fungal growth. If you have multiple tropical plants at home, we recommend grouping them all in one location so that together they can increase the humidity around themselves.

Conclusion

Your care routine makes a huge difference when it comes to growing almost any houseplant, including the tropical Pothos. These tropical evergreens are relatively fast growers, so if you provide them with the right growing conditions, you will be the proud owner of a large, lush indoor plant in the course of just a few years! 

Image: istockphoto.com / jointstar

The Aglaonema, or Chinese evergreen, is one of the most rewarding aesthetic indoor plants to grow, and it can be very upsetting to see its beautiful foliage turning yellow! Common causes of this problem relate to overwatering, improper lighting, freezing temperatures, pests, plant diseases, and natural aging of the leaves. 

If you are currently faced with yellowing leaves on your Aglaonema, do not lose hope! You may be baffled as to the reason, but this guide will explain the possible causes, as well as providing some tips to revive your plant.

Common causes of yellow leaves on Aglaonema

There are several possible reasons your Aglaonema may develop yellow leaves, but do not lose heart if your indoor plant is losing its vibrant, green color. Check out these common issues so that you can address them appropriately:

1. Overwatering 

Giving your Aglaonema too much water without first checking the soil’s moisture is the easiest way to kill your plant. This common gardening mistake can promote root rot and prevent your Aglaonema from absorbing essential soil nutrients and moisture. This in turn can weaken your plant and turn its green leaves yellow.

Root rot can also attract pests and fungal pathogens. Pests and diseases are the perfect combination to kill any plant – even a tough Aglaonema.

Aside from yellow leaves, the plant’s stems will also turn mushy, making your Aglaonema appear sick and lifeless.

With early intervention, you can still save an overwatered Aglaonema. Follow these tips to help revive your houseplant as soon as possible:

• Remove your Aglaonema from its planter and have a close look at the root ball. Do you see dark, mushy roots that smell like a swamp? Those are dead roots, and should be removed carefully, using a clean pair of scissors or pruning shears. You should also trim any damaged stems and leaves to help your plant heal.
• Spray the roots with fungicide, follow the suggested dosage and directions on the package. Place the plant on some old newspaper and allow the roots to dry.
• Transfer your Aglaonema to a new pot with fresh soil.
• Allow your plant to heal for at least one week before watering again. 
• To avoid root rot in the future, never overwater your plant. Wait for the top few inches of soil to dry completely before your next watering.

2. Underwatering

Withered and yellowed Aglaonemas can also be a sign of underwatering. If you wait for all of the soil to become completely bone-dry, the lack of moisture can cause drought stress and dry leaves.

Water is an essential component for plant photosynthesis. It provides hydrogen so that plants can produce their own food and keep their leaves green. This means that, if your Aglaonema is water-deprived, its natural metabolic processes are hindered. The leaves and stems will also lose turgidity, resulting in a sick-looking, droopy plant.

But do not worry – it is easier to correct problems related to underwatering than those caused by overwatering. These tips should help your dry Aglaonema recover:

• Give your plant a good soak in a basin of water for about 45 minutes. Make sure that the roots and soil absorb enough water through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. 
• Once the soil is uniformly wet, remove the pot from the tub or sink and allow the excess water to drain completely. 
• You may also consider repotting your Aglaonema in fresh soil if the original soil dries out too quickly.
• Maintain a proper watering schedule to ensure that your plant remains hydrated, especially during the hotter seasons.

3. Poor lighting conditions

Your plant’s wellbeing also depends on the amount of light it receives daily.

Sunlight is another key ingredient in photosynthesis, which keeps your Aglaonema green and healthy. With insufficient light, plants cannot harvest enough energy to grow and bloom, and an Aglaonema kept under poor lighting conditions will start to develop brittle stems and yellow leaves.

Too much sunlight, on the other hand, can also be bad for your plant. Direct sunshine can be a tad too harsh for your Aglaonema, and will likely burn and damage the leaves.

The best type of light for your Aglaonema is bright but indirect sunlight. You can achieve this through the following:

• Move your Aglaonema to a window facing east or north. Avoid south- and west-facing windows, as these tend to receive the strongest and hottest sunlight.
• Try to rotate your plant from time to time to ensure that all of its sides receive adequate light for even growth.
• Your Aglaonema can also thrive under artificial grow lights. This is a great option if you do not have the perfect location to provide filtered sunlight. It also means you can grow your plants year-round, regardless of your location or the season.  

4. Cold drafts

Aglaonemas are undoubtedly sensitive to cold drafts. Even a chill from a windowsill can kill them pretty quickly if you do not take action fast enough!

Here is what you can do to protect your Aglaonema from cold drafts:

• During the colder months, close the blinds and curtains, especially at night.
• If the night-time temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, try to slip an insulating material in between your plant and the window.
• Aglaonemas cannot tolerate freezing weather or wind, so move your plant away from open doors and windows. You can relocate it to the center of your room to avoid the harsh winter temperatures from outside.

5. Transplant shock

Ornamental plants can suffer from transplant stress, so you must exercise precautions during the repotting process. 

Even with precautions, however, a degree of transplant shock is inevitable; the best you can do is to provide optimal care for your Aglaonema while it is recovering. After a few days, its brilliant green foliage should return to normal.

Here are some additional tips to reduce plant stress after repotting:

• Make sure your plant is well-hydrated within the 24 hours before repotting.
• Try to add some horticultural grit at the bottom of the new pot before adding the soil. This will improve the drainage and prevent waterlogged soil.
• Avoid repotting your plants too frequently. It is best to repot your Aglaonema every two years, or when its container becomes too small for its roots.

6. Pests and diseases

Sap-sucking insects and fungal diseases can both inhibit plant growth. If these problems are not treated early on, your Aglaonema can suffer from irreversible damage to the leaves, stems, and roots. The issue can also cause the leaves to yellow quickly as the infestation or pathogens multiply.

These solutions should help save your affected Aglaonema:

• Spray the affected plant with neem oil or insecticidal soap to get rid of pests.
• Clean the leaves from time to time with alcohol diluted in water. Use a soft cloth to wipe away any bugs you see on the undersides of the leaves and on the leaf joints.
• Apply fungicides and copper compounds to treat fungal and bacterial diseases.
• Avoid watering your plants at night. Keep in mind that the leaves should not stay wet for extended periods; otherwise, your plant will become a breeding ground for pathogenic organisms.
• Isolate sick plants to avoid spreading pests and diseases to other, healthy houseplants.
• If the infestation or fungal infection is too severe, it might be too late to save your Aglaonema. At this point, it is best to dispose of the dying plant and start anew.

7. Lack of soil nutrients

Like other houseplants, your Aglaonema obtains its nutrients from the soil. But, unlike in its natural habitat which is rich in organic matter, your plant’s nourishment in your home is limited to what is available in its pot. This is why fertilizers serve as important supplements for the growth of houseplants.

Without adequate nutrients, it can be challenging to encourage the healthy growth of new foliage, even if all the other basic needs like water and sunlight have been met. Nutrient deficiency in Aglaonemas can manifest as smaller leaf growth and yellowing leaves.

How to solve nutrient deficiency in Aglaonemas:

• Add small doses of liquid fertilizer during the growing season. Keep in mind that Aglaonemas are light feeders, and that overfeeding will not encourage faster growth but instead damage the roots.
• If your plant has been overfertilized, flush the soil thoroughly with water to remove the excess salt buildup in the soil.
• It is best to use a foliar spray when you begin treating a nutrient deficiency. Afterwards, you can proceed to root-zone fertilization to continue fixing the problem.

8. Natural aging

If your Aglaonema is yellowing despite providing it the best possible care, the discoloration might just be caused by the natural aging process.

All plants, at some point, produce a few yellow leaves at the bottom as those leaves get older. Eventually, your plant will shed these old leaves to make way for new growth. 

If you notice your Aglaonema producing and shedding a few yellow leaves, especially during autumn and winter and especially from the bottom of the plant, this is completely normal. 

Should I remove yellow leaves from my Aglaonema?

You should definitely trim the dead and yellow leaves from your Aglaonema, especially if more than 50 percent of its foliage is damaged.

Cutting off the yellow leaves allows your plant to focus its nutrients and energy on the remaining healthy leaves. It will also improve its overall appearance!

To remove the yellowed leaves, make a cut at a 45-degree angle, to prevent water from sitting on the cut. Keep your Aglaonema well-watered and in a location with bright, indirect sunlight to encourage the growth of new leaves.

Conclusion

If your Aglaonema is stressed by one or more environmental factors, the most common sign might be the browning or yellowing of its leaves. Often, this has something to do with overwatering, but other issues such as lack of light, pests, nutrient deficiency, and root damage might also contribute to the yellowing. Make sure to investigate the exact cause before addressing the problem – with the right solution, you can hopefully bring back your plant’s vibrant, healthy foliage!

Image: istockphoto.com / Kittiwut

Does your money tree look sad and unhealthy? Then your plant might be struggling with a major health issue.

Money trees, also known as Pachira aquaticas, are generally easy-to-care-for, sturdy houseplants. But that does not mean they cannot be vulnerable to several issues, especially if not given proper care.

You are probably reading this in an effort to establish why your money tree’s trunk has gone soft. Well, there are many possible reasons your plant may suddenly look limp and soft. Hopefully, this guide will help you find the answers to revive your plant!

What does a healthy money tree trunk look like?

Money trees are popular for their braided trunks and green palm-like leaves, which can lend your indoor garden a tropical vibe. Under favorable growing conditions, these plants have woody stems that are strong and hard to the touch.

Unfortunately, your money tree can become vulnerable to certain plant diseases, and if you are not careful, it can lose its vibrant foliage and become unsightly. And, if you pinch one of its trunks and it feels soft, then you might be dealing with a serious problem. 

Root rot is the most common reason behind a soft and mushy money tree trunk. This fatal condition can also lead to other damage, such as drooping leaves, defoliation, and increased risk of pest infestation. Other issues, such as a lack of sunlight and overfeeding, can also influence the health of your plant. 

So, let us discuss these issues one by one.

Why is my money tree’s trunk soft?

No one wants to see their indoor plants rotting! Soft trunks in money trees is a classic sign of overwatering; however, other stressors might also be contributing factors. If you are not sure why your money tree looks so sick, check out the common causes below so you can find the right solution to save your plant!

1. Overwatering

Soggy soil is the number one culprit in most cases of drooping leaves in houseplants. There are several reasons the soil becomes soggy, and one of them is overwatering. Unfortunately, a lot of gardeners without enough plant care knowledge are guilty of this practice.

How can you tell if a money tree is overwatered?

Like most indoor plants, money trees do not like their sensitive roots to sit in waterlogged soil. Roots need oxygen to breathe, and a water-saturated environment inhibits the supply of oxygen in the soil. Roots that are not able to breathe will begin to decay, and this can be further exacerbated by bacterial and fungal pathogens in the soil.

Root rot prevents the plant from taking in the water and nutrients it needs to grow and produce new leaves.That is why money trees with root rot issues become weak and vulnerable to pest infestations. The disease also makes the trunks go soft and mushy, which is not a good sight!

2. Poor pot drainage

Just like overwatering, using pots with poor drainage can also lead to root rot. So, even if you are not overwatering your money tree, it is still possible to drown the plant if the container does not have a way for excess water to flow out. The water pooling at the bottom of the pot eventually kills the roots and then the entire plant.

Another thing to keep in mind is that drainage holes can get clogged over time if you do not regularly check and clean them. For this reason, we recommend adding pebbles into the pot before putting in your soil mix, to prevent such blockages.

Choosing the appropriate pot size is also essential. Money trees do not need an extra large pot, and this will only keep the soil wet for longer than necessary.

3. Dense soil

Compacted or clay-like soil is another reason your money tree can become susceptible to root rot. Garden soil with poor drainage can easily become muddy and oversaturated, leading to irreversible root damage.

Sandy soil is not beneficial, either, because it drains a little too fast. Money trees require a slightly moist soil to stay hydrated. Hence, the perfect potting mix for your houseplant should retain enough moisture so that it does not easily go muddy or bone dry. For example, you can choose a peat-based soil with a succulent mix, or go for a regular garden soil with added sand and perlite to improve aeration.

Remember that plants are dependent on their soil for the nutrients they need to survive. Thus, it is important to give some consideration to the soil type to ensure that your money tree grows healthily. 

4. Low light conditions

Sunlight is one of the most important factors that influence the growth of your plants. It is the driving force for a plant’s metabolic process, known as photosynthesis. If your money tree is not receiving sufficient light, it will not grow at its maximum potential, regardless of the amount of fertilizer or water you give it.

Aside from compromised growth, a lack of proper light will also keep the plant’s roots moist for extended periods as the soil will dry more slowly. This means that your money tree will be more likely to develop root rot and fungal infections, just like with overwatering, if you do not correct the problem right away! 

Keep in mind, though, that houseplants like the money tree cannot tolerate the scorching heat of the sun. Thus, you should never leave your plant exposed to direct, full sunlight. Diffused, bright light should suffice to promote proper growth and stronger stems. In most cases, placing your money tree near a bright, east-facing window should give it the best lighting conditions.

5. Too much fertilizer

Fertilizing your money tree during the growing season is essential to ensure that it receives the macronutrients required for faster growth. But be careful – excessive fertilizer can be harmful to your plants!

Money trees are known to be light feeders, meaning they do not need a lot of fertilizer to grow. If you are giving your plant more than the required dosage, it will likely suffer from root burn. This condition occurs when the excess fertilizer accumulates in the soil as a salt buildup, drawing moisture away from the roots. Without a healthy root system, your plant will struggle with nutrient uptake issues, leading to brown leaves and mushy trunks. 

How to fix your money tree’s soft trunk

Now you know the possible reasons your money tree’s trunk feels soft and mushy, it is time to address these issues one by one. 

1. Ensure proper watering

In their natural habitat, money trees thrive in freshwater swamps and on river banks. This simply means that they do not do well in bone dry soil. Gardening experts recommend watering a money tree roughly once every two weeks to keep it hydrated. To avoid overwatering, try to allow the top layer of soil to dry out before you give your plant a drink, without letting all of the soil dry out completely.

2. Use pots with drainage holes

Drainage holes allow the excess water to seep out of the plant’s container after watering. This ensures that the water does not pool at the bottom of the pot and drown the plant’s delicate roots. Your plant can then enjoy a bit of moisture without its roots being completely soaked. They will be healthier and, in turn, produce stronger stems and leaves.

3. Provide indirect sunlight

Proper light exposure yields a better quality of plants. Money trees love indirect sunlight, so make sure that you do not deprive your plant of this basic need. There are many options for providing good sunlight exposure without the plant getting burned. As mentioned before, east-facing windows are ideal for growing money trees. Other windows with bright sunlight might also work, as long as you hang curtains to filter the intensity of the light.

You can also place your money tree beside a tree or on a covered patio. As long as it receives sufficient light without the intense heat, it should do just fine!

Some growers suggest artificial grow lights if you do not have a good spot to place your houseplants. Grow lights provide the same light spectrum as the sun, but without the harsh heat, making them a great option for your indoor money tree.

4. Fertilize once a month during summer

Your money tree will derive great benefit from a balanced fertilizer with an nitrogen-potassium-sodium (NPK) ratio of 10-10-10 or 20-20-20. We highly recommend using a liquid fertilizer like the Money Tree Fertilizer by Perfect Plants or CNS17 Nutrient Fertilizer by Botanicare to ensure vibrant growth and better quality leaves.

Importantly, do not apply fertilizer during the cold months, as this is when your money tree becomes dormant. Plants are more vulnerable to damage in the winter and will likely suffer from root burn if you fertilize them.

5. Treat root rot

Although root rot is a serious condition, you may be able to save your money tree if the damage has not extended to the entire root system. If you see any white, firm roots remaining, then you can revive your plant by following these steps:

• Remove the plant from its current container. This will allow you to get a closer look at the roots. Make sure not to hold the mushy trunk when pulling out your plant, or you will damage it further.
• Trim away any dead roots using a sterilized pair of pruning shears. You should also prune damaged leaves or stems. Do not use these damaged parts as compost. As this will spread fungal disease to other, healthier plants.
• Transfer your money tree to a new pot with fresh soil mix.
• Use a fungicide of your choice to treat the root rot disease. Follow the instructions and recommended dosage on the packaging.
• Water your plant, but avoid misting the leaves.
• Monitor your money tree regularly to keep track of its recovery. Continue treatment for 7-10 days until the fungal disease is eliminated. 

Conclusion

The most common cause of soft trunks in money trees is root rot. While this condition is often serious and can be fatal, you can still save your money tree if you intervene early enough. Follow the tips mentioned in this guide and you will hopefully be able to nurse your plant back to full health.

However, if the roots are severely damaged, then your only hope may be to propagate a few healthy cuttings and start afresh. With patience and proper care habits, you can grow the new trunks into healthy money trees and avoid the same problems in the future!

Image: istockphoto.com / Renata Tyburczy

The oyster plant is one of the easiest to grow houseplants. It thrives in warm climates and requires little care, making it the perfect houseplant for growers with little experience.

Also known as Tradescantia spathacea, oyster plants are well-known for their lance-shaped, purplish, and dark green foliage. However, common plant issues can sometimes damage these lovely leaves and make your plant significantly less attractive.

In this guide, we have listed the most common oyster plant problems you might encounter while growing this popular houseplant. Use our list below as a guide to prevent future issues or to help revive your dying plant.

1. Root rot

Root rot is one of the most serious plant diseases and can kill your oyster plant in a matter of days. As the name suggests, it mainly attacks the roots, limiting your plant’s access to vital soil nutrients and water for survival. Without healthy roots, it is almost impossible for a plant to stay alive.

Overwatering is the leading cause of root rot. Unfortunately, many growers make this common mistake, giving their plants more water than they actually need. Oyster plants do not need watering more than once per week unless the weather is extremely hot and the soil dries out very easily. 

Otherwise, too much watering will only keep the soil moist for longer than necessary, and oyster plants do not like their delicate roots to sit in waterlogged soil for too long. Additionally, moist soil can encourage the growth of fungal pathogens, one of the most prolific decomposers present in the soil. For this reason, overwatering can actually double your oyster plant’s suffering.

To avoid this mistake, you should consider the following tips:

• Water your plant only when the soil feels dry. In most cases, once or twice a week should suffice, depending on the weather conditions. You should also reduce watering when your plant goes dormant.
• Avoid using pots without drainage holes, as this can cause excess water to stay longer in the soil. 
• Make sure that your chosen pot is the appropriate size for your plant. Oversized pots tend to hold more water while pots that are too small can cause the plant to become rootbound.
• Choose the proper potting mix for your oyster plant. As with other indoor plants, well-draining soil is much preferred over gardening soil. Avoid using clay-type soils as they are more compact and less porous, preventing most of the water from flowing out.

2. Pest infestations

Although pest infestations are not so common in oyster plants, they might still fall victim to certain sap-sucking bugs, especially if they lack proper care. Pests can take up residence on the undersides of the leaves and feed on the nutrients in the leaves, severely damaging the foliage.

Some of the common offenders are spider mites, scales, mealybugs, and caterpillars. If you notice white spots or sticky substances on the leaves, then your oyster plant is most likely struggling with an infestation. If you do not intervene right away, the pests will soon cause visible damage to the leaves, weakening your plant and making it more vulnerable to other plant diseases.

Unfortunately, there is no quick solution for severely infested oyster plants. If you spot the problem early enough, you can treat it with insecticidal soaps or neem oil. Make sure to do your research to understand which solutions work best for the particular type of bug that is assaulting your plant. 

Lastly, while helping your oyster plant recover, make sure to separate it from the rest of your indoor plants to avoid spreading the infestation. 

3. Oyster plant diseases

Oyster plants are generally quite resistant to common plant diseases. However, they can become vulnerable to bacterial or fungal diseases when exposed to certain conditions. 

For example, a moist environment can encourage the growth of pathogenic organisms that cause leaf spot diseases. As the name suggests, you will likely notice some brownish or tan spots that look like rings or dark margins on the foliage. Over time, the spots turn into blotches as the disease progresses. The lesions can also become watery and cause a total collapse of the leaf tissue.

The best way to treat leaf spot disease in oyster plants is as follows:

• Remove the damaged stems and leaves to avoid further spread of the infection. Use sterilized scissors or pruning shears to cut away the infected plant parts.
• Depending on the culprit, use a bactericide or fungicide to treat the infected plant. Fungal and bacterial infections can have similar symptoms, so make sure to do your research.
• Avoid misting the leaves and watering your plants at night, and make sure your oyster plant does not sit in waterlogged soil for too long.
• Prevention and proper care are key to keeping your oyster plant healthy and immune to almost any disease, so make sure to provide it with the best possible growing conditions at all times.
• Prune your plant regularly. As mentioned, make sure to clean the cutting tools before using them on your oyster plant.

4. Curling leaves

Oyster plants normally have rigid leaves. If they start to curl, this might signal that your plant is struggling from underwatering. Although these tropical houseplants are forgiving and drought-resistant, that does not mean you can simply plant them and forget them. Oyster plants, like any other plant, need to be watered regularly to maintain their attractive foliage.

To get the timing right when watering your oyster plant, inspect the soil’s moisture level using your finger. If the top two inches of soil feel dry, then you can water your plant. If it is moist, you should delay watering until it has dried a bit more. That said, do not let it get too dry, either – oyster plants can only tolerate dry soil up to a certain point.

Aside from the finger test method, you can also opt for a soil moisture probe which offers more convenience and accuracy. We highly recommend XLUX and ECOWITT if you prefer this route. These devices are moisture-proof and come with a display console so you can easily read the soil’s moisture content. Once you know the plant’s soil condition, you can make an informed decision about the best time to water your plant without the risk of overwatering or underwatering.

5. Brown leaf tips or margins

Brown discoloration on the foliage is typically a sign of a dehydrated oyster plant. Again, this might have something to do with underwatering, or your plant might be struggling with root problems that prevent it from taking up enough water.

Water uptake issues might be caused by one or a combination of the following:

• The roots are constricted within the container. This often happens if your plant is rootbound because the pot size is too small for it.
• You are using sandy soil which does not hold enough water to hydrate the plant.
• The root system is damaged due to a compacted growing medium.
• The soil contains a high amount of salt which is a common result of overfertilizing.

While browning leaves might seem alarming, this issue can usually be fixed quite easily once you have determined the culprit and addressed it appropriately. 

Start by investigating the roots – lift the plant from its container so you can see any signs of damage. As mentioned, use a clean pair of pruning shears to remove the damaged parts. 

If overfertilization is the culprit, you might need to review your fertilizer dosage. We suggest using a diluted liquid fertilizer once a month during the growing season. Do not feed your oyster plant once it has entered its dormant phase.

If your plant has outgrown its pot, it is best to repot it. You may notice some roots growing out from the drain holes under the pot as the plant becomes fuller and bushier. Since oyster plant roots can become dense quite easily, we recommend repotting your plant every two to three years.

6. Drooping or wilting

Direct sunlight exposure can be harmful to your oyster plant. Besides scorching the leaves, the harsh heat can also cause them to wilt or droop. 

Although these plants are tolerant of low-light conditions, they do require a few hours of indirect sunlight every day in order to produce their green and purplish-colored leaves. To keep your plant healthy and upright, make sure to keep it in an area that gets sufficient light without being directly exposed to full sunlight.

If you cannot find a good spot with indirect sunlight, you can use artificial grow lights instead. Artificial lights are handy at any time of the year, but especially during winter. Additionally, grow lights provide the same light spectrum as natural sunlight to stimulate plant photosynthesis. For this reason, you might find them a good substitute indoors to help your oyster plant grow and flourish.

Conclusion

Oyster plants are relatively easy to grow under the right conditions. Provide the plant with basic care such as proper watering and sufficient indirect sunlight and it will flourish for many years. 

Oysters are also tough plants – they can survive periods of neglect and poor lighting conditions. However, such a lack of care will eventually lead to plant issues. Thankfully, these evergreens can be easily revived if the issues are corrected right away.

Remember that prevention and early intervention are extremely important if you want to see your oyster plant grow to its full potential. Hopefully, this guide has shed some light on how to tackle common oyster plant problems to keep your evergreen lush and beautiful.

Misting provides the easiest solution to keep your tropical plants thriving. Fiddle leaf figs, in particular, will appreciate this extra moisture, especially if your indoor climate tends to be drier than usual. 

However, growers’ opinions are divided when it comes to misting houseplants. That is because misting can be both beneficial and harmful to your indoor plants. While some swear that misting can promote plant growth, others insist that this method offers no benefits and can even kill your plants!

So, with the plethora of information available on the internet, you might have landed on this page in search of an answer – should you mist your fiddle leaf fig?

This article will break down the good and the bad of misting your fiddle leaf fig. We will also reveal other alternatives to keep your plant hydrated, no matter the season! 

Should you mist your fiddle leaf fig?

Correct humidity is an essential ingredient when it comes to growing your fiddle leaf fig. Unfortunately, temperatures and humidity levels change with the season, and if you live in an area with cold winters, you will likely experience dry air at that time. As you might already know, cold air tends to carry very little moisture compared to the warmer air during summer, and such low humidity levels can suck the moisture from your plants.

Due to the damaging effects of dry air, some gardeners resort to misting in the hope of keeping their fiddle leaf figs well-hydrated. After all, these tropical rainforest plants love warm and humid environments.

So – how does misting work? Simply fill a garden spray bottle with clean water and mist the leaves once or twice a week. It is advised to mist your fiddle leaf fig in the morning so that the leaves will have enough time to dry before nightfall. Spraying the foliage at night can encourage bacterial and fungal growth. 

While misting can temporarily make your fiddle leaf fig happy, it might not be the best solution long-term. Regular misting carries some disadvantages which can put your plant at risk of disease and pest infestations. 

Some disadvantages of misting

1. Mineral buildup 

You have probably heard that regular tap water can mess with your plants. Tap water contains toxic minerals like chlorine, fluoride, magnesium, and calcium that can accumulate on the plant’s leaves. This limits the absorption of moisture and causes the leaves to become dry and brown. Hard water deposits can also interfere with photosynthesis, which will weaken your fiddle leaf fig and leave it looking dull and sick.

Although you can manually remove the hard water spots, this is a tedious job – especially if you have several plants at home.

Thus, if you must mist your fiddle leaf fig, make sure to use filtered water. Otherwise, you should find other alternatives to hydrate your plants. 

2. Fiddle leaf fig diseases

Moist, warm environments are favorable for bacterial and fungal growth. This means that, if you are not careful, regular misting can put your fiddle leaf fig at risk of bacterial and fungal diseases. Examples are root rot, leaf spots, and powdery mildew.

Most pathogens are naturally occurring in soil. Under the right conditions, these microorganisms can easily take over your houseplants and cause severe damage to the leaves and stems. Symptoms might include dark spots, rusts, lesions, molds, and white, powdery growth on the foliage. Without early intervention, these diseases can become difficult to treat and may cause the untimely demise of your plants.

3. Pest infestations

Misting can keep the plant’s leaves moist for longer than ideal, and this can attract several types of bugs.

Pests exploit a plant’s weaknesses. If your fiddle leaf fig is sick, these tiny, sap-sucking creatures like aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites will take the opportunity to attack your plant and feast on the available leaf nutrients. Eventually, the invaders will cause great damage to the leaves and may even kill your houseplant. 

What to do instead of misting your fiddle leaf fig

If misting is not the best way to go, then what are the possible alternatives?

If your fiddle leaf fig looks sick due to a lack of humidity and you have decided that misting is not for you, then you can consider these tips instead: 

1. Install a humidifier

Humidifiers are a great option to boost humidity in your home, especially during cold seasons when the air tends to be drier. These devices will keep your tropical plants lush through the additional moisture they add to the air. You also do not need to worry about manually maintaining your indoor climate, since the humidifier automatically adjusts the humidity level according to your liking.

Fiddle leaf figs thrive in a humid environment, as they are native to the tropical rainforests of Africa. If you want to see these plants reach their full potential, it is important to mimic the conditions of their natural habitat which is a bit warm, dense, and wet. Unfortunately, this can be difficult to achieve in a typical home, but a humidifier will definitely help.

Keep in mind that these exotic tropical trees require around 40 to 60 percent humidity to grow happily. If you want to monitor the humidity level while growing a fiddle leaf fig indoors, you might want to consider a hygrometer like Geevon. This device is relatively cheap and convenient for keeping your indoor humidity levels in check, especially if you want more accuracy.     

2. Add more plants

Grouping your houseplants together in one location can help boost the humidity around them, thanks to the transpiration process. All plants naturally sweat or release moisture into the air as they carry on their metabolic processes like photosynthesis. When the weather is too hot, transpiration also helps your plant cool down a bit. Hence, keeping your plants together will be beneficial not only to your fiddle leaf fig, but to all of your houseplants. 

3. Use a pebble tray

This method is probably not new to you. A lot of gardeners like to use pebble trays to keep their humidity-loving plants happy and thriving. Note that using pebble trays alone might not be enough to maintain the desired level of humidity indoors – humidifiers are still your best bet. However, this option can be a cheaper and quicker alternative if you want to provide a bit of moisture to your fiddle leaf fig. 

Simply get an empty tray and add some pebbles and water. Remember that the water level should only fill half of the tray; the pebbles must not be fully submerged in the water. Place your planter on top of the tray, and keep adding water as the water level drops. 

4. Place plants near an aquarium

Placing an aquarium or fish tank indoors naturally increases humidity. This is because the water in the fish tank evaporates, increasing the moisture in the air. Hence, keeping your fiddle leaf fig near an aquarium would be beneficial for it. 

Additionally, the water from the fish tank is rich in nitrogen. So, when it is time to change the tank water, do not throw the old water away. Instead, you can use this water as a natural fertilizer for your plants. 

Conclusion

Should you mist your fiddle leaf fig? In general, misting your tropical plants is not a bad idea, as long as you do it correctly. Light misting once or twice a week, in the morning, will generally do just fine. You should also make sure that your plant is not sitting in waterlogged soil.

However, nothing beats a humidifier if you want the best results – this will save you a lot of time and effort. Installing a humidifier is also a safer option to protect your houseplants from problematic pest infestations and diseases.

So, if your main purpose of misting is to boost humidity for your plant, it is probably better to consider the alternatives mentioned in this guide. This way, you can get your fiddle leaf fig to thrive in an otherwise dry climate without the risk of harming your plant!

Image: istockphoto.com / sKrisda

No gardener wants to see their beloved houseplants on death’s doorstep! If you are troubled by brown or yellow leaves on your Aglaonema that do not seem to improve despite all your care and attention, then it might be time to do some deeper investigation.

There are many possible reasons your Aglaonema may be dying. Inappropriate watering and a lack of proper care are the leading causes, but external stressors such as cold drafts, too much sunlight, and pests might also come into play.

If you are searching for tips on how to save a dying Aglaonema, you should find this guide helpful. Read on to learn about common Aglaonema plant issues and how you can solve them, one by one!

Why is my Aglaonema dying?

Aglaonema is actually a very easy plant to grow! Also known as Chinese evergreen, this beautiful, hardy plant can survive low light conditions and is highly resistant to common plant diseases. No wonder it is such a popular houseplant for both experienced and novice growers!

Sometimes, though, despite being tough and disease-resistant, the Chinese evergreen might still suffer from issues that require immediate attention. Drooping, browning or yellowing of the leaves are just some of the early signs of plant distress. If the underlying issues are not resolved, the condition can progress to irreversible damage that may eventually kill the plant.

Undoubtedly, root rot and fungal disease are the leading causes of a dying Aglaonema. These conditions are triggered by overwatering, the use of poorly-draining pots or soil, watering at night, regular misting, and incorrect pot size. 

Plant roots are delicate and can easily suffocate in waterlogged soil. Without proper aeration, the roots will not be able to breathe enough oxygen to carry out their vital functions. Eventually, they will start to decompose. At this point, bacterial and fungal pathogens can hasten the rotting process, sending your Aglaonema to an untimely demise.

Aside from root rot, your Chinese evergreen can also be killed by other environmental stressors, especially if it is neglected for too long. These include:

• Underwatering
• Frost or exposure to cold temperatures
• Sunburn caused by direct sunlight exposure
• Overfeeding
• Nutrient deficiency
• Lack of proper sunlight
• Severe pest infestations

After reading all these possible issues, you might be wondering how to begin saving your dying Aglaonema. Unfortunately, there is no single solution for this – every issue requires a different treatment approach. So, going by your plant’s symptoms, you will need to determine  the specific culprit before deciding on which possible fix will help your Chinese evergreen recover.

Tips to save a dying Aglaonema

As mentioned, there are many ways to save a dying Aglaonema, depending on the problem. It is therefore important to understand what your plant is going through before applying any of the solutions below:

1. Avoid overwatering

Overwatering your Aglaonema can drown its roots and severely limit the oxygen and nutrients available for your plant. Hence, as with all plants, you should never overestimate the water requirements of your umbrella plant, or you risk water stress and root rot. 

The symptoms of an overwatered Aglaonema include mushy stems and roots, deformation and discoloration of the leaves, stunted growth, and decomposing roots.

How do you save an overwatered Aglaonema?

Prevention is always the best route when it comes to plant care. First, know the correct time to water your Aglaonema. Since your watering schedule might depend on certain factors like the weather conditions or the season, it is always best to check the soil’s moisture before watering. You can do this by pushing your finger into the soil or through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot to get a better idea of how damp or dry the soil really is before you go ahead and water.

In the event that you have overwatered your plant and want to reverse the damage, here are the steps you need to follow to revive your Aglaonema:

• Gently lift the overwatered Aglaonema from its pot.
• Using sterilized pruning shears, trim away any damaged roots, stems, and leaves.
• Place the plant on some old newspapers and leave it overnight to dry.
• Repot your Aglaonema in a new pot that has adequate drainage holes. Make sure to use a breathable potting mix to prevent too much water retention. 
• You can also add some stones to the bottom of the pot before adding the soil. This will also help the excess water drain away when you water the plant.

2. Protect your plant from cold drafts

The ideal temperature range for healthy growth in Chinese evergreens is between 68 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit. If you notice your plant’s leaves turning yellow or developing dark patches, it is possible that it has been exposed to temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Frost and cold temperatures are a weakness for Aglaonemas; if left in cold environments for too long, these plants will simply stop metabolizing and will eventually die.

Here are some quick fixes to help save your plant from dying:

• Move your Aglaonema to a new location with warmer temperatures.
• Trim the damaged leaves but make sure not to cut more than three leaves at a time. Remove only the worst parts to avoid stressing your plant.
• Never place your Aglaonema near an open window or in a space that gets cold drafts.
• Also do not place your plant near any heating device.

3. Avoid over-exposure to sunlight

Like all plants, your Chinese evergreen needs sunlight to survive. However, exposure to full sunlight will absolutely burn its leaves. You will notice the foliage curl and turn pale as the Aglaonema reacts to the sun’s scorching heat.

Here is how to save your dying Aglaonema from sunburn:

• Trim off the yellowed or browned leaves. Do not remove droopy leaves, as these will return to their usual shape once your plant recovers.
• Move your Chinese evergreen to a shadier area. Windows facing the north or east are usually ideal; avoid south-facing windows as they tend to receive too much sunlight.

4. Treat pests infestations immediately

Pests can leave your Aglaonema weakened and yellow. If you notice these crawlers on the undersides of the leaves and along the stems, you need to act right away to get rid of them.

Unfortunately, if the pests have severely damaged your plant, it can be challenging to save it from death. At this point, it may be best to discard the infested plant and plant a new one. 

If the infestation is light, you have a better chance of saving your plant. Here are some tips:

• Isolate the infested Aglaonema right away to prevent the bugs spreading to your other houseplants.
• Clean the leaves and stems one by one using a cloth or cotton wool dipped in warm, soapy water. You can also use isopropyl alcohol diluted in water to remove the insects.
• Treat your plant with neem oil or insecticidal soap. Continue the treatment for a couple of weeks until all the pests are gone.

5. Look for signs of copper deficiency

Copper is an essential micronutrient responsible for enzymatic activities and chlorophyll production in your plant. If your Aglaonema is struggling with copper deficiency, its leaves will become small, yellow, and deformed.

Nutrient deficiency is often a result of damaged roots, inadequate fertilizing, root-bound issues, or poor soil quality.

Aglaonemas suffering from nutrient deficiency can be saved by:

• Feeding with liquid fertilizers for faster absorption. We highly recommend products like 13Essentials Foliar Spray Fertilizer to ensure your plant receives the macro and micronutrients essential for stronger growth. Make sure to fertilize your plant every month during the growing season, but restrict your application during winter. 
• Repotting your Chinese evergreen every two years, or when it becomes root-bound. Use a well-draining potting mix to ensure better growth.

Will my Aglaonema bounce back?

Your Aglaonema requires basic plant care, including indirect sunlight, proper watering, nutrient-dense soil, and the right temperatures, to thrive. As long as your plant grows under these favorable conditions, it should bounce back fairly quickly.

However, plants that are severely damaged or infested might struggle to recover. If all the leaves have turned brown or yellow, then it might be too late to save your plant. Hence, it is best to protect your plant from such irreversible damage before it happens, so that you can enjoy its beautiful foliage for years to come.

Conclusion

Most problems in Chinese evergreens, provided they are caught early, are fairly easy to fix. If you have made an effort to correct your plant care routine, this hardy houseplant should bounce back to life in no time! However, it will be a lot more difficult to save a plant that has lost all of its leaves or is severely infested. At this point, disposing of the heavily damaged plant is probably your best option. Start over with a fresh, new plant and apply the lessons you have learned to prevent future problems.

Image: istockphoto.com /

Schefflera, commonly known as the umbrella plant, is among many people’s favorite houseplants due to the tropical vibe it lends to landscapes and living spaces. These plants are also easy to grow and do not require a lot of space in your room or garden. 

However, it is not uncommon for the umbrella plant to develop drooping leaves, especially under the care of neglectful owners. And, even with the proper care, you may still find your plant drooping in certain circumstances.

If you are puzzled as to why your Schefflera is looking sad, read on to learn about the possible causes and the appropriate solutions!

Why is my umbrella plant drooping?

Drooping leaves is a sign of a distressed plant. This phenomenon is often observed in umbrella plants struggling with water issues. For example, long-term neglect and sparse watering can severely dehydrate the plant as it transpires moisture through its foliage faster than its roots can absorb from the dry soil. As the leaves and stems lose their water content, the plant loses its turgidity as well, making it challenging to stay upright. This, in turn, results in wilting and drooping of the umbrella plant’s leaves.

Overwatering can also cause the umbrella plant to droop. In this case, the excessive water in the soil severely damages the roots to the extent that they can no longer support the plant. This condition is known as root rot, and is a very common plant killer.

Several external factors can also contribute to plant stress, such as cold drafts, dry air, lack of sunlight, and transplant shock. Unlike overwatering, these issues can be easily resolved once addressed immediately. In most cases, correcting your care routine and providing your plant with the ideal growing conditions should suffice to fix its droopy appearance.

How to fix a drooping umbrella plant

As mentioned, drooping and wilting of your umbrella plant’s leaves can be caused by one of several underlying issues, each of which might require a different solution. So, before applying a possible fix, make sure that you understand your plant’s problem so that you can address it appropriately.

How do you perk up a drooping umbrella plant?

Below, we have listed some tips to fix your umbrella’s drooping leaves, depending on the issue at hand. Go ahead and review each cause so that, hopefully, you will find the right solution to revive your plant!

1. Drooping due to underwatering

By now, you are probably aware that the stems and roots of your umbrella plant help keep it upright. The water content of the leaves is also responsible for their plump and bushy appearance. So, when your plant starts drooping or wilting, this is indicative of a lack of water!

Although the Schefflera is highly tolerant of dry soil, it will not live for too long if the drought conditions persist. 

The fix:

• Plants need water – even those that are drought-resistant. Watering your umbrella plant once every one or two weeks should be enough to keep it happy.
• If the soil is extremely dry, give your plant a good soak. However, be careful of overwatering it! Umbrella plants do not like to soak their roots in soggy soil for too long.

2. Drooping due to overwatering

Overwatering can hurt your umbrella plant in many ways! First, the delicate roots exposed to waterlogged soil will start to decompose and cut off the supply of oxygen and nutrients to the plant. 

Second, fungal and bacterial pathogens can then exploit your plant’s compromised health: as it weakens, bacteria and fungal spores will begin to reproduce rapidly. Without a healthy root system, it is impossible for the plant to defend itself and recover. Unfortunately, in most cases, plants struggling with severe root rot might never recover at all.

What does an overwatered umbrella plant look like?

On the outside, the most obvious signs of an overwatered umbrella plant include browning or yellowing of the leaves, drooping or wilting, and soft, mushy stems. However, these symptoms can also be confused with other plant issues, so the best way to check for overwatering is to unpot the plant and inspect the roots – do they look dark and mushy? If so, then overwatering is probably the culprit!

The fix:

• Avoid watering your plant when the soil feels wet – this is the golden rule! Check the soil before watering by inserting your finger into it. This way, you should be able to feel if the soil is ready for watering.
• We highly recommend watering your plant in the morning so that it has enough time to dry throughout the day. Watering at night might seem a convenient option for busy plant owners, but this habit can leave the soil wet for longer periods. The moist conditions combined with the low night-time temperatures create a perfect environment for bacterial and fungal growth!

3. Drooping caused by hot or cold drafts

Schefflera thrives between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and temperatures cooler than 60 degrees Fahrenheit will likely result in unwanted leaf damage.

The fix:

• If you are growing your umbrella plants indoors, then exposure to cold drafts should not pose much threat to your plant, but avoid placing it near an open area or window during the cold seasons.
• Keep your plant away from vents, fireplaces, or other heat sources.

4. Drooping due to low humidity

Low humidity can be problematic for certain plants, particularly during the colder months! Although your Schefflera will generally be fine with indoor humidity levels, it will not grow to its full potential if you keep it in conditions that are not as humid as its native habitat. Dry air can also cause an increased transpiration rate in plants which, in turn, leads to brown and crispy leaves.

The fix:

• Try to increase the humidity level in your growing area if necessary, especially during the cold seasons. Remember that umbrella plants require about 75% humidity to really thrive. You can maintain this climate indoors with the help of a humidifier.
• Try placing your planter on top of a pebble tray filled with water. This should add some moisture to the air as the water evaporates.
• You can also mist the leaves when the air becomes too dry. Just be careful not to overdo it – keeping the leaves and soil wet for hours can attract fungal spores!

5. Drooping due to lack of sunlight

A sad-looking Schefflera could also mean that the plant is light-deprived. Umbrella plants require bright, diffused sunlight to maintain their bushy, green foliage; a lack of light for extended periods can inhibit food production through photosynthesis, essentially starving your plant to death.

The fix:

• Your Schefflera needs sufficient sunlight to conduct physiological processes such as photosynthesis, so make sure that it enjoys some indirect sunlight for a few hours each day.
• Exposure to direct sunlight, however, can be bad for your umbrella plant! To avoid burning the leaves, make sure to keep it in an area with semi-shade or cover, such as near a window with curtains. 
• Use artificial grow lights if you do not have a perfect spot for indirect sunlight exposure at home. Grow lights are also quite handy during the colder seasons when daylight hours are fewer.

6. Drooping caused by poor drainage

Using pots and soil with poor drainage can have similar consequences as overwatering. Since there is no outlet for the excess water to escape, it will pool at the bottom of the pot and drown the umbrella plant’s roots. Hence, even if you are not overwatering your plant, you might still kill it with the wrong pots and soil mix.

The fix:

• To save your plant, remove it from its current pot and trim any roots that look soft or mushy. Then give the remaining roots a good wash and soak them in fungicide to kill the pathogens.
• Choose a new pot with lots of drainage holes. This will prevent water from pooling at the bottom of the pot.
• Make sure that you are using a well-draining soil mix. Avoid using clay or compact garden soil, as these tend to hold too much moisture.

7. Drooping after repotting

Drooping and wilting leaves is a normal reaction after a plant has been repotted. Plants generally do not like being transplanted or moved frequently to new locations. So, if you notice these symptoms in your umbrella plant and you have just repotted it, it should not be cause for any serious concern. Wait for your plant to acclimatize to its new home and its leaves should be back in shape after a few days.

The fix:

• Repotting can be very stressful for a plant, so make sure that you do not do anything that might worsen the condition. For example, avoid pruning your plant after repotting it. Instead, wait a few weeks until the roots have re-established themselves.
• Give your plant the best care while it recovers: appropriate watering, lots of indirect sunlight, and the right growing conditions. 

8. Drooping caused by pests

Pests suck the sap from your plant’s leaves to get their nutrition, leaving them looking droopy and lifeless. Some common enemies of umbrella plants are spider mites, mealybugs, aphids, and scales. Thankfully, there are solutions available to get rid of these hitchhiking creatures.

The fix:

• Spray diluted neem oil on the leaves and stems, ensuring that every nook and cranny is covered. Let the solution stay there for up to three days, and repeat the application for a few weeks until all the pests are gone.
• If you see mealybugs on the leaves, grab a cotton bud dipped in isopropyl alcohol and use this to wipe the leaves.
• You can also use insecticidal soaps to eliminate these crawlers. 

How do you revive a dying umbrella plant?

Reviving your dying umbrella plant can be tricky if you are not aware of the underlying issue. For example, yellowing or browning leaves might prompt some gardeners to water their plants more – but if the culprit is overwatering, this approach will only hasten your plant’s demise.

In most cases, reviving your umbrella plant is easier the earlier you can intervene. 

Unfortunately, plants that are suffering from severe root rot or fungal diseases will have a lower chance of recovery. Hence, try to give your plant the best care from the outset, to prevent these issues from developing.

Conclusion

There are many possible reasons your umbrella plant may suddenly become limp or droopy. The most common causes include repotting shock, watering issues, root rot, lack of sunlight, and varying temperatures. If you catch the issues early and apply the solutions discussed in this guide, you should be able to return your plant to its full glory in a short space of time.

Image: istockphoto.com / nickkurzenko

The Japanese aralia is one of the popular ornamental shrubs that are considered hard to kill. Also known as Fatsia japonica, this tough evergreen is highly praised for its exotic foliage, making it a common favorite for indoor landscapes. 

Unfortunately, unfavorable growing conditions and a lack of proper care can leave your Japanese aralia vulnerable to several issues. In this guide, we have listed the most common problems you might face as you grow and propagate this amazing plant.

1. Sunburn caused by direct sunlight exposure

Although the Japanese aralia is widely grown and propagated throughout the world, this evergreen shrub does best in areas with subtropical climates. This implies that aralias grow best under a shade where they can get bright, diffused light. Leaving them exposed to the scorching heat of the sun can burn their leaves!

Unfortunately, leaf scorch is a fairly common problem in Japanese aralias, simply due to growers’ ignorance. Even an indoor setting can put your plant at risk of sunburn if it is placed too near an open window with full sunlight.

Thankfully, sunburn issues can be quickly resolved simply by moving your plant to a shadier location. The Japanese aralia is tolerant of low to medium light, which makes it ideal for your indoor spaces. 

2. Brown and crispy leaves due to underwatering

When was the last time you watered your plants?

If you are guilty of neglecting your houseplants for long periods, you are certainly not alone! Underwatering is a common mistake among growers – especially those who have busy schedules. Nevertheless, even hardy plants like aralias need a degree of pampering to maintain their lush, green appearance. 

Timely watering is key to avoiding underwatering issues. The rule of thumb is this: water your plant only when the top layer of soil feels dry. Use your finger to check the soil’s moisture level, or use a soil moisture meter if you prefer a more accurate reading.

Keep in mind that there are also other contributing factors that can cause the browning of Japanese aralia leaves. For example, a lack of humidity can dry the leaves and cause browning. Hard water can also be harsh on your Japanese aralia due to its toxic mineral content. Switch to rainwater or filtered tap water if you notice your plant’s leaves turning brown and crisp!

3. Overfertilization issues

Although Japanese aralias love nutrient-rich soil, giving them too much fertilizer can do more harm than good! 

While aralias are fast-growing species, they do not necessarily need large doses of fertilizer to thrive. This leaves some novice growers overestimating the needs of their plants! The excess nutrients will not be absorbed by the plant and will instead end up as a salt buildup in the soil. This is why you see white crusts on the soil if you regularly overfeed your plants.

The end result of overfertilization is root burn. Japanese aralias struggling with root burn will have brown leaf margins and a sad-looking appearance. In the long run, the root damage can stunt your plant’s growth.

4. Root rot due to waterlogged soil

Root rot is a common yet dangerous disease prevalent among indoor plants. It attacks the roots of your Japanese aralia if you allow your plant to grow in an overly damp medium for too long. As with any plant, decaying roots can cut your aralia’s life short if you do not act right away.

The common causes of root rot are:

• Overwatering
• Using pots that have poor drainage
• Using pots that are too deep or too large for your plant 
• Using a compact or dense medium such as ordinary garden soil or clay soil
• Keeping the soil and leaves wet for too long which encourages the growth of bacteria and fungi

To prevent root rot and fungal diseases, the best approach is to adhere to a correct watering routine. As mentioned, water your plants only when the top layer of soil is dry, and make sure you use the correct pots and a breathable soil mix to maintain healthy roots.

5. Rootbound Issues

Do you know that Japanese aralias can grow up to 18 inches per season? These hardy, ornamental plants can easily reach a height of six feet if grown indoors under favorable conditions! 

This means that your fast-growing aralia can quickly outgrow its initial pot, leaving it rootbound. As the root ball becomes too dense for the space inside the pot, the growth and overall appearance of your plant will be compromised. 

These are some of the tell-tale signs of a root-bound Japanese aralia:

• Roots growing out from the pot’s drainage holes
• Wilting and drooping
• Cracked or damaged pot caused by compacted roots
• Soil displacement in the pot
• Yellow leaves

To revive your plant, simply repot it in a slightly bigger container. The rule for choosing the right pot size is straightforward: the diameter of the pot should be about two inches wider than the root ball. You can also prune your Japanese aralia and propagate the cut stems in smaller pots. This way, you can easily control the size of your plant.

6. Pest infestations

Pests like spider mites can cause great damage to the leaves of your Japanese aralia. These tiny bugs take up residence on the plant’s foliage and feed on the sap, or leaf juice, compromising the overall health of the plant. 

If you notice white or silvery substances or web-like structures on the plant’s leaves, this is a clear sign of infestation and you need to act immediately to stop it!

Here are some tips to get rid of the pests:

• Prune the damaged leaves and stems using a clean pair of scissors or pruning shears.
• Dilute neem oil in water and spray the mixture directly on the leaves and stems. Reapply every three to four days until all the pests are gone.
• You can also use insecticidal soaps to eradicate the sap-sucking bugs. Make sure to follow the instructions on the packaging before treating your plants. 

7. Stunted growth

Stunted growth is another issue sometimes encountered by Japanese aralia growers. This phenomenon is generally caused by environmental stressors or inappropriate growing media. 

If you suspect that your aralia’s growth is unusually slow, make sure to follow these tips to correct any underlying issues:

• Avoid moving your plant too frequently. Most indoor plants like Japanese aralias are quite sensitive to new environments.
• Use the correct soil mix for your plants. Although aralias do not make a lot of fuss when it comes to soil type, they are best grown in slightly moist and well-draining soils. 
• Make sure your plant receives the basic care requirements – correct watering, proper humidity levels, indirect sunlight, and the correct fertilizer dosage.

8. Yellow leaves caused by plant stress

Japanese aralias can get stressed, too! Just like humans, your plants go through a series of physiological changes in response to external stressors such as transplanting, sudden temperature changes, drought, and many others. Under these stressful conditions, your Japanese aralia can be more vulnerable to pest infestations and diseases. 

Curling leaves is an early sign of a plant experiencing some form of stress. The other symptoms might become more noticeable later on, as the underlying issue progresses.

But do not worry – your Japanese aralia is a hardy plant! Correcting the issue right away should ensure that it recovers quickly and completely. 

9. Fungal diseases

Fungal infections can be quite common in Japanese aralias, especially since these tropical shrubs enjoy growing in moist air and soil. Unfortunately, bacteria and fungi also love humid environments, and will attack your plants if you are not keeping a watchful eye and maintaining the correct care.

Common fungal diseases in aralias generally manifest as blotchy or dotted clumps on the leaves, necrotic lesions on the leaves, moldy soil, and mushy-looking roots that smell like a swamp.

An appropriate fungicide should help your Japanese aralia recover from such infection. If the disease has become severe, it might be more challenging to save your plant, so remember that prevention is always better than cure and never overwater your plants! 

10. Yellow leaves caused by alkaline soil

The Japanese aralia prefers neutral or mildly acidic, nutrient-rich soil. If you are growing your plant in alkaline soil, it will likely result in curled and yellowed leaves. The symptoms are similar to those of a nutrient deficiency, because soil alkalinity inhibits the proper absorption of nutrients by the roots. 

Alkaline soil also tends to hold excess amounts of calcium, magnesium, and sodium, which makes the soil less soluble. It is also for this reason that you should avoid using hard water for your indoor plants.

Checking the soil’s pH should be your first step when growing a Japanese aralia. You can purchase soil pH strips to ensure that your growing medium is ideal for your plants. Soil pH meters like SONKIR also do a great job if you want more reliable and accurate readings.

11. Uneven growth due to lack of light

Sparse, uneven growth is a classic sign of a Japanese aralia that is not receiving enough light. You might also notice the plant producing smaller leaves over time as a result of long-term light deprivation.

As with all plants, your Japanese aralia needs sufficient and correct lighting to conduct photosynthesis – exposure to medium, indirect sunlight is ideal for this plant. Hence, placing your aralia near an east-facing window or another spot that gets diffused sunlight should help correct any light-related problems. Rotate your plant slightly from time to time if you think one side is getting significantly more light than the other.

Conclusion

Despite its hardiness and neglect-tolerant reputation, the Japanese aralia is not completely immune to common plant issues. Without proper care, your plant can suffer from irreversible damage which might lead to its early demise if you do not intervene quickly enough! Hopefully, this list of common Japanese aralia problems will serve as a useful guide to help you avoid such issues in the future.

The string of pearls is a vining succulent, popular for its unique foliage that resembles a beaded necklace. It is also known for its low-maintenance profile that makes it a beginner-friendly plant for novice gardeners.

However, despite its relative hardiness, it is not completely immune to problems, and if its orbed foliage starts to turn purple, this is probably a sign of an underlying issue. Often, it is not a major concern for growers, but if you notice other signs of damage such as mushy stems, a droopy appearance, leaf drop, or sparse growth, then your plant probably needs your attention.

Read on to learn the common causes of a string of pearls turning purple and what you can do to fix the problem!

Why is my string of pearls changing color?

It might seem interesting or exotic to watch your string of pearls changing color. However, this discoloration of the pearls is often indicative of plant stress! 

Anthocyanin, the red or purple pigment found in succulents, is what makes your string of pearls turning purple when exposed to environmental stressors. The most common culprit is sunburn, but other factors like watering issues, varying temperatures, and plant diseases could also trigger the leaf discoloration.

How do you know when a string of pearls is dying?

Root rot is the leading cause of plant death, including in string of pearls plants. Aside from the leaves turning purple or brown, damage can also manifest as mushy stems and roots, stunted growth, a droopy appearance, and defoliation. If you notice these symptoms, then your first step should be to investigate the roots and check for signs of damage.

If the pearls are turning purple without visible damage to the root system, then there is a higher chance of recovery for your plant. Such issues are usually not as serious as root rot and can often be resolved by correcting your plant care routine. 

Common causes of string of pearls turning purple

1. Exposure to full sunlight

The string of pearls does not do well under full sunlight. If you notice the pearls changing color from green to purple, it can be a sign that your plant is struggling with sunburn. Sometimes, the scorching heat can also cause the pearls to burst, develop lesions, or shrivel as the plant loses its moisture. 

That said, some growers intentionally place their string of pearls outdoors or near an open window with full sunlight to achieve a purple tint on the beads. This might be possible if done carefully, if you want to maintain this colorful pigmentation. 

However, if your plant is showing signs of distress, it is best to relocate it to a covered patio, under a tree, or near a window with curtains. Prolonged exposure to bright sunlight may lead to irreversible damage that might kill your plant.

Other solutions to sunburned pearls are as follows:

• Avoid placing your plant near south-facing windows, as these tend to receive the most sunlight throughout the day.
• Your string of pearls need sufficient, indirect sunlight for photosynthesis. To maintain its green foliage, keep it in a spot that gets diffused sunlight or opt for artificial grow lights if you cannot find a perfect spot for it.
• Do not place your string of pearls near a hot glass window. 

2. Underwatering

Another possible reason your string of pearls looks distressed is if it is not receiving sufficient water. Neglected plants will lose their leaf moisture over time and this will cause unusual discolorations of the foliage. When your string of pearls is deprived of water for extended periods, the severe dehydration will eventually kill it.

Solutions to underwatered string of pearls:

• A consistent watering schedule is vital for your string of pearls to thrive. To know the best time to water your plant, simply check the condition of the soil with your finger. Is it dry? If so, then give your string of pearls a drink. If the soil is still wet, let it dry first before watering again.
• If the soil is extremely dry after a long period of neglect, soak the plant by placing the pot in a tray of water until all of the soil becomes moist. Allow the pot to drain well afterwards and discard the excess water.
• Correcting your watering habits should reverse the pigmentation of the pearls. Increase your watering bit by bit and see how the plant responds. You do not want to overwater it, because this will cause another whole set of problems!

3. Overwatering

Overwatering is the number one cause of plant death, yet many growers are guilty of this bad habit. Too much water can stress the roots of your string of pearls, causing its leaves to turn brown or purple. Additionally, overwatering can lead to root rot, which manifests as mushy, dark roots that smell swampy as bacteria and fungi begin to overtake them.

Solutions to overwatered string of pearls:

• If root rot has started, use a sterilized pair of scissors to prune any damaged roots and prevent the spread of fungi and bacteria. You can also trim any damaged stems and leaves to improve your plant’s appearance.
• Wash the roots and soak them in a fungicide. After repotting, place your plant in a well-ventilated area with access to indirect sunlight.
• Make it a habit to monitor the condition of the soil before watering. As mentioned before, insert your finger into the soil to determine the dampness. You can also use a soil moisture meter for more accurate moisture readings.

4. Sudden temperature changes

A sudden shift in temperature can put your plant in a state of shock. If you notice your string of pearls turning purple and drooping, you should investigate whether this was caused by light or temperature variations indoors.

Solutions to temperature stress:

• Do not place your plant near an open window or in an area that gets cold drafts.
• Frequent relocation can put a lot of stress on your string of pearls, so avoid moving it around unnecessarily.
• It is best to bring your plant indoors during the cold months to protect it from frost.
• Do not place your string of pearls near a fireplace, heating devices, furnaces, or vents. It is sensitive to elevated temperatures, so keeping it too close to heat sources can easily burn its leaves.
• Maintain adequate airflow and humidity in your growing area.

5. Poor pot drainage

Pots that do not have drainage holes can compromise the roots of your plants. Similar to overwatering, plant containers with poor drainage can lead to waterlogged soil and root rot. 

Watch out for these signs of root rot:

• Leaves turning purple
• Shriveling or drooping
• Slow growth
• Roots and stems becoming soft or mushy
• Defoliation
• Symptoms of bacterial or fungal disease

Unfortunately, root rot is an irreversible problem. The only solution to save your string of pearls is to remove its damaged roots, stems, and leaves, and hope that you have caught the problem early enough. The earlier you intervene, the higher the chance of your plant recovering.

Here are some additional tips to prevent root rot:

• Remember that your plants are better off underwatered than overwatered, so keep your watering in check.
• Make sure to use the appropriate pot size for your plants. Larger pots tend to hold more moisture and increase the risk of root rot.
• Use pots with lots of drainage holes. This allows the excess water to flow out freely every time you water your plants.
• Use a soil mix with good aeration. Plant roots need to breathe oxygen in order to function. Brands like Miracle Gro and The Valley Garden will help ensure the best soil quality for your string of pearls.

6. Too much fertilizer

Overfeeding your string of pearls can lead to root burn. This, in turn, can cause purple or brown leaves, stunted growth, and a droopy appearance. If you notice white crusts forming on the top of the soil, then your plant’s stress is likely caused by overfertilization.

To save an overfertilized string of pearls:

• Flush out the excess fertilizer by giving your plant a good shower. Make sure that the water flows freely from the drain holes.
• Repeat the process up to four times until you are confident that the surplus nutrients have been flushed out of the soil. Allow your string of pearls to recover for at least a month before adding fertilizer again.
• It is highly recommended to use a water-soluble fertilizer with a balanced nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus ratio, and to dilute the fertilizer to about half its strength.
• Fertilize your string of pearls fortnightly at most, and only during the spring and summer. Stop fertilizing during the plant’s dormant period.

7. Pests and molds

No plant owner wants to deal with pest infestations or plant mold, but unfortunately your string of pearls is not immune to such problems. Pests and soil molds can be stressful for your plant, causing its plump green pearls to droop or discolor.

Some tell-tale signs of pests and molds are as follows:

• Presence of white substances or web-like structures on the stems and leaves.
• Visible damage on the foliage. This happens when bugs suck the sap from the leaves.
•  A white, powdery mildew on the leaves and stems that looks like a dusting of flour. This fuzzy substance is actually fungal spores that thrive in warm and humid climates.

Solutions to treat pests and molds:

• Isolate the affected string of pearls to prevent the disease from spreading to other plants.
• Trim off the damaged leaves and stems. 
• Depending on the type of pest, use the appropriate solution such as neem oil, horticultural oil, or insecticidal soap to get rid of the sap-sucking bugs.
• Avoid watering your plants at night, as the foliage will stay damp for longer and attract pathogenic organisms like fungi and bacteria.
• Make sure that your string of pearls does not sit in waterlogged soil. Always check the soil before watering.
• Avoid misting your plant – fungal spores love humid environments!

Conclusion

Exposing your string of pearls to unfavorable growing conditions can lead to unusual pigmentation of the beads. Some growers see this as an opportunity to induce variegation, but overdoing it might eventually kill your plant! So, make sure to address the specific issues that are causing your string of pearls to turn purple, so that you can enjoy its beautiful, plump beads for years to come!

Image: istockphoto.com / Cn0ra

Zebra plants, also known as Aphelandra squarrosa, are most loved for their unique green foliage with patterns of white stripes. 

However, unlike certain other houseplants, caring for a zebra plant can be slightly challenging. These plants tend to be temperamental regarding their growing conditions, so you might encounter certain problems from time to time. For example, if you notice your zebra plant’s leaves drooping, it is most likely a sign of underwatering. However, other issues like overwatering, overfeeding, sunburn, pests, and incorrect pots might also be contributing factors.

If you are frustrated about your zebra’s sudden droopy appearance, this guide is for you! All the possible issues are explained in detail below, so you can pinpoint the cause of your plant’s problem and how to fix it.

Why are my zebra plant’s leaves drooping?

1. Inconsistent watering habits

 If your zebra plant’s leaves are drooping and turning crispy, it probably needs more water!

These plants are native to the tropics where their soil is always moist, so neglecting to water them or watering them too lightly can leave them struggling with drought stress. Sparse watering depletes the moisture reserves in the plants’ leaves, especially during the hotter seasons when their transpiration rate is higher.

To avoid the ill-effects of dry soil, keep an eye on your plant and water it as soon as the top two inches of soil have dried out. If it has been longer than usual since you last watered it and the soil is very dry, give it a thorough soaking to ensure that all of the roots have had water. Provided you have caught the underwatering in time, your plant should bounce back to health within a few weeks once you start watering it properly. 

You should also keep in mind that your zebra plant’s watering requirements can vary depending on the time of year and the climate where you live. Spring and summer are when your watering frequency should increase slightly, to encourage faster growth and to accommodate the warmer temperatures. And, like most houseplants, your zebra plant will reduce its water requirements during winter due to shorter days and lower temperatures.

2. Overwatering

Are you watering your zebra plant every week? Then its droopy appearance may well be caused by too much watering! If you notice additional symptoms such as yellowing or browning of the foliage and dark, mushy roots, you need to reassess your watering habit before it is too late.

Zebra plants originated from the tropical regions of Brazil. Their leaves are thick to efficiently store water and reduce moisture loss during the transpiration process. they do not really need a huge amount of water to stay upright, and providing them with more than they can tolerate can damage their delicate roots and even possibly kill them.

As mentioned, watering your zebra plant once every two or three weeks should suffice. Make sure that the top layer of soil has completely dried out between watering sessions. If you are not sure, check the soil by inserting your finger through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot – this will give you a good indication of the moisture level in the lower layers of soil. If it feels moist, delay watering your plant for a couple of days until it is slightly dryer but not bone-dry. Otherwise, water your plant.

3. Inappropriate pot

Pots that retain too much moisture can harm your zebra plant in the same way as overwatering it.

Some factors you need to assess are the following:

• Is the pot too large for your plant? The extra space in a large pot can increase moisture retention since the soil will need a longer time to dry.
• Does your pot have enough drainage holes? Pots with poor drainage cause the excess water to pool at the bottom after watering your plant. 
• Are you using plastic pots? Breathable pots like those made of ceramic or terracotta might be more beneficial since these materials can wick the excess moisture from the soil. Plastic pots, on the other hand, tend to hold more moisture that may promote root rot. If you are using plastic pots, make sure to keep a very good eye on your watering routine to prevent waterlogged soil.

4. Soil impermeability

Zebra plants might also suffer from water stress when the soil mix is not sufficiently well-draining. Common garden soil is not recommended for zebra plants since it is typically very dense and retains too much water, causing the plant’s roots to decay easily.

The ideal growing medium for zebra plants should be rich in nutrients, able to retain just enough moisture, and drain well to prevent standing water. Some recommended potting mixes for zebra plants include Organic Potting Soil and Miracle-Gro Potting Mix. You can also create your own recipe by mixing one part garden soil, one part perlite or coarse sand, and two parts peat moss. Leaf mold and coconut coir are also great additions if you do not have peat moss on hand.

5. Lighting issues

In their natural habitat, zebra plants thrive under a canopy of trees where they enjoy partial or indirect sunlight. It is crucial to emulate these conditions if you want to ensure proper growth and healthy leaves on your plant.

One common mistake made by zebra plant owners is to leave their plant outdoors, unprotected from the scorching heat of the sun. This can cause sunburn and irreversible damage to the leaves! So, as soon as you notice the leaves drooping, assess the plant’s growing conditions – is it regularly exposed to full sunlight? If so, you should move it to a spot that gets partial shade.

Keep in mind, though, that complete shade is also not good, as it can inhibit the plant’s growth. If you decide to keep your zebra plant indoors, make sure that it receives sufficient light to conduct photosynthesis and maintain its lush foliage. A spot near an east-facing window would be ideal, or you can install grow lights indoors to keep your plant happy and thriving. 

6. Low humidity

Zebra plants cannot tolerate areas with low humidity. Just like underwatering, the dry indoor air, especially during the cold seasons, can turn their leaves from plump and firm to thin and dry in no time. No gardener wants to see their plants sad and drooping!

Due to their tropical origins, Zebra plants need a warm, semi-shaded environment with 60 to 70 percent humidity. To protect your plant from any weather-related stress, you may want to invest in a humidifier to maintain an ideal growing climate in your home. 

7. Extreme temperature changes

Temperatures between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit provide the most favorable growing conditions for your zebra plant. If the temperatures exceed 85 degrees, your plant will likely droop as it tries to conserve the remaining moisture in its leaves. 

To avoid temperature-related drooping, make sure your plant is protected from fluctuating temperatures. Keep it away from heating devices, air conditioning vents, and areas exposed to cold drafts.  

8. Pest infestations

Like any other houseplant, your zebra plant is not immune to pests, and droopy leaves may be an early sign of an infestation. As the pests reproduce and feed on the sap of the leaves, you might also start seeing sticky substances or white cottony webs along the stems and leaves.

Some common enemies of zebra plants include the following:

• Spider mites
• Mealybugs
• Whitefly
• Aphids
• Scale

Neem oil and insecticidal soaps usually work wonders in eradicating these bugs. It is easier to get rid of an infestation in its early stages, so check the leaves regularly for signs of infestation and, if you see any bugs, apply treatments weekly until your plant has recovered.

9. Too much fertilizer

Overfertilization causes a salt buildup around the plant’s roots and restricts its water uptake. This, in turn, results in drought stress, so you will see signs similar to those of underwatering. 

To grow your zebra plant to its full potential, fertilize it no more than once every two to three weeks, and only during spring and summer. Avoid feeding it during its dormant period in the colder months. A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer is recommended to encourage your plant to bloom.

10. Plant diseases

Zebra plant diseases like fungal leaf spot are usually linked to overwatering and misting. That is because the pathogens that cause these diseases thrive in moist and humid environments. If you do not correct your watering routine, your zebra plant may succumb to one of these diseases. 

Unfortunately, treating fungal and bacterial diseases in zebra plants can be tricky, so prevention is definitely better than cure. Keep your watering habits in check and monitor your plant from time to time to catch any early signs of infection. Trim off any damaged leaves, stems, or roots to prevent the spread of an early infection. 

11. Transplant shock

Transplant shock can happen to almost any plant. If your zebra plant’s leaves are drooping after you have just transferred it to a new pot, then it is likely adjusting to its new home. 

To help your plant recover, you need to provide it with the best care possible. Ensure that you meet all of its basic requirements, such as proper watering, correct humidity, and partial or indirect sunlight. Give your plant some time to recover from the transplant shock and it should bounce back to its normal, healthy shape.

12. Acclimatization to a new environment

If you have recently bought a beautiful-looking zebra plant from a store or nursery, do not be surprised if it starts to droop a few days after you bring it home with you.

This is a normal reaction for most plants, since they would not normally have to deal with location changes when growing in the wild. Hence, you should try to limit the number of times you move your plants from one location to another, to avoid unnecessary stress.

So, if you have recently brought home a new zebra plant, or you have decided to move your existing plant to another spot in your house, you will likely notice its leaves drooping. Do not worry – this is normal! Simply allow your plant to adapt to its new location. Under favorable growing conditions, its droopy appearance should disappear in a few days or weeks.

Conclusion

Incorrect watering habits are a top cause of drooping zebra plant leaves. If you are able to spot this mistake early, then establishing an appropriate watering schedule should help your zebra recover without too much trouble.

If you suspect other issues like pests, overfertilization, incorrect pot or soil, humidity issues, or inappropriate lighting conditions, you might need to investigate further to solve the problem. Hopefully, with proper care and growing conditions, you can save your plant from severe damage and help it regain its healthy leaves.

Image: istockphoto.com / Herman Vlad

The string of pearls, or Senecio rowleyanus, is a houseplant coveted by many indoor gardeners for unique, orb-shaped leaves, which resemble pearls or beads. This delicate hanging succulent makes a great contrast with any of your flowering plants and is versatile enough to be grown both indoors and outdoors.

Despite being relatively low-maintenance and drought-tolerant, your string of pearls can be killed by prolonged neglect and incorrect care. 

If your plant seems to be dying, the most likely cause is incorrect watering. However, other issues might also affect its health, including insufficient light, too much light, root rot, wrong pot size, and inappropriate soil.

Read on to understand why your string of pearls is dying and how you can solve the problem before it is too late!

Why your string of pearls is dying

Sometimes, no matter how much attention we give our plants, they can still end up stressed by certain factors in the environment. If your string of pearls is dying, you will need to review your care routine and correct any mistakes before it is too late!

Here are some common reasons for your succulent to look unhealthy or start dying:

1. Using soil with poor drainage

As you might already know, succulents like the string of pearls do not like to sit in waterlogged soil for long periods. 

Unfortunately, although soil type is one of the most important contributors to the health and vigor of your plant’s pearls, not all gardeners are aware of the appropriate soil mix for their indoor plants. Using a common garden soil can promote root rot since this type of medium is too compact and lacks aeration. 

Roots need oxygen to perform their vital function of absorbing water and essential nutrients from the soil. When the soil retains too much water, it can block the roots’ access to oxygen and drown them, promoting rot and inviting fungal pathogens. This leaves the entire plant with limited access to nutrients and water, and this will eventually kill it.

2. Overwatering

Watering your string of pearls more than it needs can lead to its early demise.

The string of pearls is succulent and is therefore drought-tolerant, which means it does not need a lot of water to grow and produce beautiful pearls. If you give it more water than it can handle, the excess water will pool at the bottom of the pot and damage the root system.

What does an overwatered string of pearls look like?

Without healthy roots, your plant will start dying. The early symptoms are wilted or mushy-looking leaves, and rotting roots. As soon as you notice the plant’s pearls looking shriveled, check your watering habits – your plant is likely overwatered. Correcting your watering mistakes early can save the plant and return it to full health.

3. Underwatering and lack of humidity

As mentioned, the string of pearls is a drought-resistant succulent with desert origins, so its leaves are excellent at storing water to survive in areas with limited water resources. Still, it has its limits and problems can arise when its water reservoirs run dry after prolonged periods of soil dryness.

If you have forgotten to water your plant for too long, it will eventually start showing signs of underwatering. Its round, plump pearls will shrivel as they lose more and more of their moisture.

You should also keep in mind that a younger string of pearls requires more water than a mature plant. Hence, to ensure proper foliage development, keep an eye on your watering frequency, especially during the summer season.

4. Sunburn

Because the string of pearls comes from areas with hot and arid climates, you might be surprised to know that it actually does not do so well with too much sunlight!

The intense heat of the sun can burn and dry its foliage, causing symptoms similar to those of underwatering. You might also notice the pearls developing unsightly sunburn spots. 

If you notice these symptoms, move your plant away from the blistering sun before it is too late. The ideal location for a string of pearls is a partially shaded area, such as a covered patio or near a window with curtains, to ensure it receives sufficient indirect light without its leaves getting damaged. 

5. Low lighting conditions

As much as overexposure to sunlight can damage your string of pearls, a lack of sunlight can also have detrimental effects! That is because the string of pearls needs bright, indirect sunlight in order to perform photosynthesis, which is a critical process that keeps a plant’s foliage green and bushy, among other functions. Thus, without light exposure, the pearls will grow pale and farther apart from each other, giving your plant a sparse and leggy appearance. 

If your string of pearls is struggling with poor lighting conditions, correct the problem by moving it to a spot with better access to bright, indirect sunlight. If you leave it too long under low light conditions, it will start losing its pearls and eventually die.

6. A pot that is too deep or too large

Unlike many other succulents, the string of pearls does not have deep roots and its stems are quite narrow. Hence, it should not be placed in a large, deep pot, as this will leave it vulnerable to root damage. 

A disproportionately large pot will hold a lot more soil than the plant needs, and of course, more soil takes longer to dry out after watering. As mentioned before, allowing your succulent to sit in wet soil for too long can damage its delicate roots and block its access to oxygen. This means it is more likely to succumb to root rot and fungal diseases.

How do you revive a dying string of pearls?

Diagnosing a dying string of pearls might seem daunting if you do not know what you did to cause the problem in the first place. Naturally, every problem requires a different solution, so knowing the reason for your plant’s dying pearls is critical if you want to save it from an untimely demise.

Have a close look at your plant’s symptoms and see if they fit any of the following descriptions:

1. Pearls look mushy and are falling off

Mushy and yellow pearls are likely caused by root rot. As mentioned above, root rot in string of pearl plants can be due to overwatering or inappropriate pot size.

Here are some tips to help save your plant:

• Gently remove your string of pearls from its current pot. Inspect the roots – do you notice any that look mushy and have a foul odor? If yes, then trim off these damaged parts using sterilized scissors or pruning shears. Also cut off any damaged stems or leaves that are turning yellow.
• Lay your plant on a paper towel and allow the roots to dry for a couple of days.
• Repot your string of pearls in a new pot with drainage holes. Make sure to use an appropriate succulent soil mix. 
• Keep your succulent away from areas with cold drafts and make sure it receives plenty of bright, indirect sunlight.
• Avoid overwatering your plant – remember that you should only water it when the soil looks dry. If unsure, you can check the soil’s moisture level using your finger or a soil moisture meter. 

2. Pearls look shriveled or dried up

Pearls that look dry or shriveled indicate an underwatering issue. Perhaps you have neglected your plant for too long and only water it sparsely, leaving the soil too dry and damaging the roots. 

The solution for a dehydrated string of pearls is quite straightforward – just give your plant a good drink! 

You can water from the top, but make sure that the leaves do not stay wet for long periods as this encourages fungal growth. However, if the soil has been dry for a long time, it may be better to water from the bottom. Place the plant’s pot in a shallow basin filled with a few inches of water, and allow the soil to absorb the water through the pot’s drainage holes. Make sure to let the excess water drain out afterward, so that the roots are not left sitting in waterlogged soil.

It is always best to water your plants in the morning so that the soil has time to dry during the warm daylight hours. Watering at night will likely keep the soil moist for too long which, again, leads to root rot and fungal diseases.

3. String of pearls looks leggy and sparse

If your succulent looks sparse on the top and the stems appear leggy, it could be caused by top rot or incorrect lighting.

To avoid top rot, here are some rules to follow:

• Do not use a pot that is too large or too deep for your string of pearls. Keep in mind that this succulent does not like being planted too deep in the soil, as this limits its oxygen intake. 
• If your plant has outgrown its current container and needs repotting, choose a new pot that is about an inch wider and deeper than the current one, and no larger.

If the culprit is inappropriate lighting, you can follow these tips:

• If all parts of your plant are not exposed to sufficient bright, indirect sunlight, the stems will start to grow leggy as they try to stretch toward the nearest light source. The solution is to reposition your plant so that all areas receive an even amount of light.
• Make sure that your plant is in a spot that gets bright light but without the intense heat of full sunlight. East-facing windows are ideal, while south-facing windows should be avoided unless covered by a sheer curtain to diffuse the light.

4. Pearls are turning white or purple

If you notice any discoloration on your plant’s foliage, it might have something to do with sunburn, poor water quality, or pests.

As mentioned, the ideal spot for your string of pearls should have access to indirect sunlight. Do not place it outdoors without shade, as the sun’s scorching heat will burn and damage the pearls.

When it comes to water quality, tap water is generally a bit harsh for most plants because of its mineral content. It is best to use filtered water or rainwater to avoid harmful chemicals like fluoride, potassium, and chlorine. Some growers also recommend letting your tap water sit overnight to allow the minerals to dissipate, after which it will be safe to use on your plants.

Conclusion

Like most succulents, the string of pearls requires minimal care in order to survive. However, if you want your plant to flourish and maintain its beautiful pearls, you will need to up your game and keep an eye on your watering habits, the plant’s light requirements, and the pot and soil that you choose for it. Once you have provided these basic requirements, you can protect your string of pearls from dying and enjoy its gorgeous strands of plump, healthy pearls!

Image: istockphoto.com / Bilal photos

For most households, getting a real Christmas tree to celebrate the festive season is a symbol of family holiday tradition and nostalgia! It is a fun activity to do in December, too, especially if you have young children at home. Families get together around their Christmas trees to decorate them with colorful ornaments, pine cones, warm lights, and loads of gifts. 

Most people see real trees as more eco-friendly than plastic ones, and perhaps the only downside of having a real Christmas tree is that it will not last forever. Just like caring for your indoor plants, you need to regularly hydrate your tree to preserve its bushy foliage throughout the holidays.

So, should you mist your Christmas tree? Definitely, yes – and this article will explain why.

Do I need to mist my Christmas tree?

Most Christmas trees can survive for at least five weeks. This means that, with proper care, you can enjoy a live Christmas tree in your living space even beyond the holiday season! 

However, to keep your tree looking fresh and alive throughout the festivities, you need to ensure that it receives enough moisture, just like your indoor plants. Otherwise, you will end up with a dried-up tree before Christmas morning arrives!

So, does misting a Christmas tree help?

Misting is one of the effective ways of boosting humidity and keeping your Christmas tree hydrated. The tiny water droplets can prevent the foliage from drying and falling off, which also means less frustrating mess to deal with every day!

So, go ahead and fill your garden spray bottle with room-temperature water and use this to spray the tree’s needles once or twice daily. Make sure that the Christmas lights are unplugged when you do this, to prevent electrical accidents.

While misting provides an easy and cheap solution to keeping your Christmas tree fresh, you can also use a humidifier to maintain moisture in the room. These devices are especially helpful during the winter season when indoor air tends to be drier. By boosting the humidity level in your home, you can provide the conditions your Christmas tree needs to stay in good shape throughout the holiday season!

Other tips to keeping a live Christmas tree fresh

Aside from regular misting, there are some other things you can do to ensure that your Christmas tree lasts for several weeks. We recommend you follow these tips to enjoy your Christmas tree throughout the holiday festivities:

1. Choose the freshest Christmas tree you can find

The best way to ensure you get the freshest Christmas tree is to take a trip to the nearest tree farm and cut your own tree. Unfortunately, not everyone has this opportunity, but do not worry – you can still find a fresh tree in your local shop by purchasing one that is newly shipped.

You may also ask your local seller where the tree came from and for how long it has been on the lot. You can check the freshness of the tree by pulling some of the needles: if they fall off easily, then the tree is likely going to lose more needles before Christmas morning. Keep in mind that most Christmas trees are cut at least a week before being put up for sale.

Lastly, we recommend choosing Christmas tree varieties like Fraser fir and pine trees, as they tend to last longer than spruce trees. You do not want to end up replacing a dried-out tree a few days before Christmas!

2. Keep your tree well-hydrated

As mentioned, the key to keeping your Christmas tree fresh for longer is to ensure it is well-hydrated. Aside from misting and using a humidifier at home, you should also water the tree from the bottom.

Unfortunately, trees that are cut a week or more prior to being sold tend to have dried-over resin at their base, and the closed-up vessels and hardened sap can prevent the absorption of  any water. 

To make your Christmas tree able to absorb water again, we recommend cutting about half an inch off the base of the trunk to remove the healed part. The fresh cut will allow your tree to draw up as much water as it needs to keep itself alive for several weeks. The golden rule is to fill the tree stand with one quart of water per inch of the trunk’s diameter. You will also need to check the water level daily and refill as needed to ensure your Christmas tree stays as hydrated as possible. 

We do not recommend adding corn syrup, sugar, aspirin, or bleach to the water, as none of these additives make any difference. Your Christmas tree simply needs fresh water to stay alive and prevent its needles from dropping off.

3. Place your Christmas tree away from heat sources

Heat sources such as heating vents, furnaces, wood stoves, heaters, fire places, and open windows with direct sunlight can make your Christmas tree dry and brittle very quickly! If you do not want to vacuum up lots of falling needles every day, then make sure your tree is placed in an optimal location away from any of these heat sources.

Open flames are also extremely dangerous, as they increase the risk of fires. For your safety, never light candles near the Christmas tree! Also discourage pets and young children from playing around the Christmas tree to prevent electrical-related fire accidents.  

Is my Christmas tree too dry?

Dry Christmas trees are not only unappealing, but also a fire hazard. 

So, how do you know if your Christmas tree is too dry? If you have properly cared for your live Christmas tree, it should last around five weeks (or more) before completely drying out. 

You can gently run your hand over the branch to see if the needles have become brittle and are falling easily. If this is the case, the tree has become too dry and it might be the right time to take it down. You can research eco-friendly solutions or inquire in your local town about disposal options. You do not want to keep a dry Christmas tree for too long or you will spend most of your time vacuuming up the fallen needles! 

Conclusion

When it comes to preserving family holiday traditions, getting a real Christmas tree is a top favorite. However, there are both pros and cons to keeping a live tree indoors throughout the holidays. Freshly cut Christmas trees require care and regular hydration to make them last longer. 

Misting is just one of the methods you can use, but there are also other tips you can follow to ensure that the leaves do not become too dry or brittle. Consider the tips mentioned in this guide and you are sure to have a beautiful Christmas tree to enjoy with family and friends for the duration of the Yuletide season. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Oleksandr Shchus

Syngonium is a beautiful, easy-to-care-for indoor plant, loved by gardeners for its characteristic spade-shaped foliage as well as its ability to purify indoor air. No wonder it has become a firm favorite for indoor decor in so many households!

Unfortunately, there are certain conditions that can cause this plant’s leaves to curl and lose their beauty. The most common culprits are low humidity and wrong watering habits, but other factors like pests, temperature extremes, nutrient problems, a rootbound state, and overfertilization might also cause the problem.

If you are looking for a solution for your Syngonium’s curling leaves, you might find this guide helpful. Read on to get some insights into common Syngonium plant problems and what you can do to fix them.

Common causes of curling Syngonium leaves

1. Incorrect watering habits 

Curling leaves is a classic sign of an underwatered Syngonium. Although these plants are relatively drought-tolerant, they still require a moderate amount of moisture to function and thrive, as they would get in their native habitat. Water is also essential to maintain plant rigidity and move the soil nutrients up to the plant’s stem and leaves. Hence, underwatering your Syngonium can bring about several other problems like stunted growth, dry leaf tips, defoliation, and wilting.

It can sometimes be tricky for gardeners to get their watering habits just right. Weather conditions and climates can vary, so it is not simply a case of having a fixed watering schedule for your plant. 

Overwatering is also a common mistake of which almost all growers, beginner or experienced, are guilty. Syngoniums that sit in waterlogged soil will suffer from oxygen deprivation, leading to decayed roots and overall loss of vigor. 

Curling and yellowing leaves are just some of the obvious signs of an overwatered Syngonium. If you take the plant out of its pot, you will notice dark, mushy roots that emit a slightly sulphurous smell – these are rotten.

To ensure that your plant is neither under- nor overwatered, here are some tips you can follow:

• Check the moisture of the soil, at about two inches deep, using your finger. Water only if the soil feels dry. You can also use a soil moisture meter to automate the job for you.
• Use a pot with good drainage.
• Use a soil mix with good aeration.
• Do not plant your Syngonium in an oversized pot.
• Limit your watering during the plant’s dormant season.

2. Rootbound issues

Syngoniums do not like to be root-bound. There will not be enough space for the roots to grow and expand, causing problems with moisture and nutrient uptake for the plant. The most common symptoms of a rootbound plant are curling leaves, browning or yellowing, leaves drop, and wilting. 

Thankfully, a rootbound Syngonium can be saved – the key is early intervention. If you can repot your plant into a correctly-sized pot with adequate space and hydration, it should be able to recover fairly soon. Select a pot that is about two inches wider in diameter than the original one. You can also prune away some roots and leaves if you do not want your plant to grow bigger.

3. Too much fertilizer

When it comes to fertilizing Syngoniums, novice gardeners can sometimes fall into bad habits! Too much fertilizer will not make your plant grow bigger. On the contrary, the excess fertilizer turns into salts in the soil, and the build-up causes serious damage to the root system. This is called fertilizer burn.

Saving an overfertilized Syngonium plant is possible, but it depends on how quickly you spot the problem and intervene. A slightly damaged plant may start to wilt and its leaves will curl upwards or downwards. If the plant has been overfertilized for quite some time, you might notice brown leaf tips and margins – a typical sign of fertilizer burn. Other symptoms include slow growth, defoliation, blackened and limp roots, and white, salty crusts on the soil’s surface.

To help your plant recover, flush out the excess salts by giving your potted plant a good shower. The volume of water should be enough to remove all of the accumulated fertilizer from around the roots. Make sure that the pot is well drained afterwards, because any standing water might drown the already-stressed roots. 

4. Nutrient deficiencies

If you are not supplementing your plant with sufficient nutrients, it may not flourish quite as you expected. Neglectful or forgetful gardeners can easily skip fertilizing a bit too often, causing nutrient deficiencies that can damage the plant over the long term. Its leaves will begin to curl and turn yellow, which is neither healthy nor aesthetically pleasing. 

Although Syngoniums are not naturally heavy feeders, they do need an occasional boost to maintain their beautiful foliage. Unlike in their original habitat where they get their nutrients through natural compost, indoor plants are limited to what is available in their little container. This is why it is extremely important to supplement the soil with a good quality fertilizer to ensure that your plant receives all the essential macro and micro nutrients it needs to thrive.

Slow-release, balanced fertilizers are a good fit for your Syngonium. As with all houseplants, make sure to feed your plant only during the growing season. Start by applying a diluted fertilizer once a month, then gradually increase the dosage as your plant starts to grow. Liquid fertilizers with a 20-20-20 or 10-10-10 nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (NPK) ratio should help make your Syngonium green and bushy.

5. Pest infestation

Just like other houseplants, your Syngonium is not immune to pest infestations. Bugs like aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, and scale can wreak havoc on your beloved plant, and it will develop curling leaves as it becomes weakened.

Getting rid of this nuisance is relatively easy, as long as you are able to spot the problem early. Depending on the type of infestation, solutions like neem oil or insecticidal soap are usually sufficient to kill the bugs, larvae, and eggs. Spray the solution on the affected leaves and stems weekly, continuing until all the pests are gone.

6. Leaf spot disease

Leaf spot diseases are caused by viral, bacterial, or fungal pathogens that appear as spots or lesions on the plant’s leaves, and curling leaves might just be an early sign of an affected Syngonium. As the disease progresses, the discoloured spots will begin to engulf the entire leaf, causing it to rot and emit a foul odor.

If you are worried that your Syngonium is struggling with leaf spot disease, here are some tips to save your plant:

• Isolate the affected plant to prevent the disease from spreading.
• Trim off leaves that are severely damaged.
• Apply neem oil or fungicide on the remaining leaves.
• Make sure the leaves are not moist or wet for prolonged periods, because pathogenic organisms love humid and moist environments.
• Continue treatment until the plant has fully recovered. 

7. Exposure to high temperatures

Elevated temperatures can reduce the moisture content of leaves and cause them to burn. Syngoniums exposed to intense heat are not exempt from such damage, and the burnt leaves will appear curly and droopy as the plant tries to conserve the remaining moisture within its leaves.

Syngoniums prefer temperatures between 45 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. To avoid temperature stress, make sure that your plant’s environment remains within this temperature range, or move it to another location with more shade and cooler temperatures. You might also need to increase your watering in hot weather to protect your plant from the blistering heat – but make sure never to overwater it!

8. Inappropriate humidity

Syngoniums are native to tropical regions, and require at least 50 percent humidity to grow well. Unfortunately, it can be challenging to maintain such a humid environment indoors. Without adequate humidity, your Syngonium will begin to display curled, yellow or brown leaves, which are symptoms very similar to those of underwatering. This is because the low humidity level will promote more than usual water loss from the leaves, effectively dehydrating the plant.

Although there are many possible ways to protect your plant from dry air, installing a humidifier is by far the most convenient and effective. An electric humidifier can easily help maintain the desired humidity inside your home, especially during winter seasons, to keep all of your plants happy.

9. Lack of sunlight 

Syngonium plants grow well in medium, indirect sunlight. They do not do well under low light conditions as this inhibits the process of photosynthesis, an essential physiological activity required for plant growth and survival. Hence, without proper light, the plant will stop growing and the leaves will begin to curl and yellow.

The best way to save a light-deprived Syngonium is to move it to a place where it can get adequate bright but indirect sunlight. East-facing windows are usually the perfect spot, but you can also choose a covered patio or balcony. 

However, do not place your Syngonium outside and unprotected from the scorching heat of the sun. It is also best to avoid south-facing windows, as these also tend to receive full sunlight throughout the day.

10. Unfiltered tap water

Tap water might seem the most convenient source of water for your plants if you are not aware of its harmful effects. Common household water sources generally contain excessive amounts of chemicals like chlorine, fluoride, and certain minerals that are toxic to plants. So, if you have been watering your Syngonium with tap water for a long time, this might be the reason its leaves are curling and turning brown.

The best solution is to filter the water before using it on your Syngonium. If you do not have a filtration system at home, you can fill a bucket with tap water and let it sit for about 24 hours before using it. Using charcoal filters might also help remove some chemicals, but they might not be effective at reducing minerals and contaminants.

Conclusion

Curling Syngonium leaves is a common manifestation of plant stress. If you can determine the specific cause right away, you can apply a timely and appropriate fix to revive your plant. Over and above the specific remedy, also make sure you give your plant the best possible care and growing conditions to help it recover quickly and prevent future problems.

Image: istockphoto.com / Karin de Mamiel

Alocasias, just like other common houseplants, can be vulnerable to certain problems and diseases. Drooping is an early sign of various plant problems, so if you find your Alocasia drooping, you will need to do some detective work in order to remedy the issue as soon as possible. 

The most common cause of drooping is incorrect watering. However, other factors might also come into play, including pests, lack of sunlight, plant stress, and more.

This guide will cover the various possible causes of your Alocasia’s drooping. Hopefully, it will help you troubleshoot the problem and find the appropriate fix to bring back your plant’s stunning and healthy appearance.

Why is my Alocasia drooping? – Common causes

1. Lack of sunlight

Alocasias grow well in medium to bright, indirect sunlight, and are not suited to low light conditions.

Without sufficient light, your plant cannot conduct photosynthesis, which is a critical chemical process that converts light energy into food for the plant. Thus, a light-deprived Alocasia will typically appear droopy with yellow or pale leaves.

That said, do not place your Alocasia near south-facing windows, because the heat from the direct sunlight can scorch its leaves and turn them brown. Like most indoor plants, your Alocasia cannot tolerate direct sunlight because the elevated temperatures will increase its transpiration rate and dry the leaves out very fast. Hence, to prevent this excessive moisture loss, it is best to keep your plant in an area that gets diffused light.

2. Dormancy

Drooping leaves can also be a sign that your Alocasia has entered its dormant period. At this point, the plant stops growing as it prepares its soft tissues for the dry weather and cold temperatures. Dormancy allows your indoor plants to survive harsh weather conditions by conserving their resources, and may be the culprit if your Alocasia develops a droopy appearance during winter.

If your plant enters its dormancy period, it is best to leave it as is. Reduce your watering frequency and do not fertilize the plant, as these can both damage the roots and leaves. Your plant might remain dormant for weeks or months, but as soon as spring arrives, it should revert to its normal condition.

3. Underwatering

Water-deprived Alocasias tend to develop dry, crispy leaves and a droopy appearance due to the lack of leaf moisture. If this condition goes on, the chronic dehydration might eventually kill your plant.

Alocasias are not drought-resistant. In their natural habitat, they thrive in moderately damp – but not soggy – soil. Growing them indoors thus requires good watering habits to ensure that the soil never runs out of moisture, but is also never too wet.

4. Overwatering

Overwatering is one of the most dangerous things you can do to most indoor plants, including Alocasias, due to its damaging effects on the roots. Yet, a lot of gardeners unknowingly make this mistake, especially if their plants are droopy or yellow and they mistakenly assume they are thirsty.

So, how do you know if your Alocasia is overwatered?

If your Alocasia’s leaves appear droopy and yellow, first check the moisture level of its soil. If it feels wet or soggy, your plant is overwatered.

Waterlogged soil can drown the roots, causing them to rot and attract various bacteria and fungi that will exacerbate the problem even further. The rot in the roots can spread quickly to other, healthy roots. Unfortunately, you cannot revive roots that are damaged by rot or fungal diseases. 

5. Lack of humidity

Alocasias thrive in humid conditions due to their tropical origins. Such humidity can be challenging to replicate in our homes, especially during winter when the air tends to be drier. The dry air in your home – whether due to winter or because you live in a less humid area – will reduce the moisture content of the plant’s leaves and cause drooping or wilting. 

Other symptoms linked to low humidity include browning of the leaf edges and tips. Again, this is because dry air increases the plant’s transpiration rate, with consequences similar to underwatering. The soil also dries out faster when the environment lacks moisture, particularly during winter.

6. Pests and diseases

Plant pests and diseases are something every plant owner wants to avoid – they can be terribly frustrating and difficult to deal with, especially if the damage is already severe.

Unfortunately, Alocasias can fall victim to certain pests and plant diseases, just like any plant. The best thing you can do is spot the problem as early as possible and apply the appropriate treatments quickly. Otherwise, if the damage has become severe, it might be too late to save your plant.

Some of the most common pests in Alocasias include aphids, mealybugs, scale, and spider mites. These sap-sucking bugs dehydrate the leaves as they feed on the sap and drain vital nutrients that your plant needs for survival. Pests can also damage the foliage by leaving sticky waste by-products on the leaves and damaging the plant’s tissues.

As for diseases, Alocasia plants can be vulnerable to certain plant diseases caused by bacteria, fungi, viruses, mycoplasma, and parasites. These pathogenic organisms can cause any of the following: 

• Xanthomonas infection
• Rotting of the roots, crown, and stem
• Powdery mildew
• Leaf spot

7. Transplant shock

Transplant shock is a common condition in Alocasias that have recently been repotted. This is usually due to minor root damage incurred during the process, and will manifest as yellow and droopy leaves.

Plants struggle even more if you repot them during their dormant period or just after blooming. 

In most cases, Alocasias should return to normal once their roots are established in the new pot. The best thing you can do is allow your plant to adjust to its new home while receiving the ideal amount of indirect sunlight and water to ensure its speedy recovery.

How do you fix a droopy Alocasia?

After you have figured out what is causing your Alocasia’s leaves to droop, it is time to take action and get your plant perked up again. Here are some of the possible solutions for drooping Alocasia plants:

1. Timely watering is key

Watering your plant appropriately will save it from several diseases and pests by keeping it as healthy and resilient as possible. You can avoid both underwatering and overwatering by checking the soil’s moisture regularly. One easy way of doing this is to insert your finger a couple of inches into the soil to feel whether it is dry or wet. Soil moisture meters, like the XLUX, also work well if you want to automate things and keep your hands dirt-free. As a rule of thumb, water your plant only when the top inch of soil is dry.

Additionally, it is best to water your plants in the morning. Night-time watering can keep the leaves and soil moist for longer periods, which can encourage the growth of bacteria and fungi.

2. Choose the right pot

This simply means choosing pots of the appropriate size that have drainage holes.

If the pot is too large for your Alocasia, it can increase the risk of overwatering because the larger volume of soil will retain more moisture.

If your plant has outgrown its container and you need to up-size it, it is generally advised to choose a new pot one or two inches larger in diameter than the previous one. 

If the pot does not have enough drainage holes, it can cause excess water to pool at the bottom of the container, risking root rot and fungal diseases.

You should also adjust your watering frequency depending on the type of pot you have chosen. For example, terracotta pots tend to wick moisture and thus dry the soil faster, while plastic pots can retain moisture for longer periods. Again, check the condition of the soil before watering.

3. Maintain a humid environment

There are many ways to help maintain an ideal humid climate for your Alocasia. You can do one or a combination of the following:

• Place a pebble tray filled with water under your plant’s pot, making sure that the roots are not submerged in the water at the bottom. As the water evaporates from the tray, it will moisten the air around the plant.
• If the environment is very dry, try misting your plant to create more humidity around it.
• Install a humidifier. This is, by far, the best and most convenient solution to maintain the desired humidity level indoors.
• Group your plants to keep your growing area humid. Plants can share moisture through their transpiration process, making it easier to maintain a suitable microclimate.

4. Avoid sunny areas

If you like to keep your plants on window sills, make sure to avoid windows with the strongest and brightest light. South-facing windows are generally not recommended for plants like Alocasias. The most suitable are east- and north-facing windows, as these only receive medium, indirect sunlight.

5. Use preventative measures against pests

As the old saying goes, prevention is better than cure. If you can implement certain measures to prevent plant pests and diseases, it will certainly save your plant from irreversible damage. Here is what you can do:

• Always check your plants regularly. Inspect the leaves, stems, and soil from time to time, so that you can easily spot the early signs of infestation and take action right away.
• Apply neem oil to the leaves once a month. This will prevent plant pests from attacking your Alocasia.
• Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil as soon as you find pests on the leaves and stem.
• You can also wipe the leaves with alcohol diluted in water to get rid of any bugs. Use one part rubbing alcohol to seven parts water to create a homemade insecticide solution.

Conclusion

There are many possible reasons your Alocasia’s leaves might droop. While the majority of reasons are linked to poor watering habits, other issues like pests and diseases might also be the cause and require serious attention. Be sure to consider all aspects of the problem and correct your care mistakes. With the right solution and growing conditions, your Alocasia should bounce back to health in a very short time!

Image: istockphoto.com / Alohapatty

Hoya kerrii, also known as Valentine Hoya or the sweetheart plant, is relatively easy to grow and care for because of its succulent-like qualities. But, despite being tough and drought-tolerant, there are certain circumstances that might cause its leaves to become curled and wrinkled.

Should you happen to notice your Hoya kerrii’s leaves curling, the most likely culprit would be low humidity or inappropriate watering. Your plant might also be struggling with too much sun exposure, pest infestation, plant stress, or temperature fluctuations. All of these factors are explained in detail below, so keep reading to find out what is bothering your precious plant!

Common reasons your Hoya kerrii’s leaves are curling

1. Root rot due to overwatering

Just like most houseplants, your Hoya kerrii can become a victim of root rot if overwatered. If you have let the soil remain waterlogged for too long, the plant’s roots will be deprived of oxygen, and will start to decompose and become a breeding ground for pathogens like fungi and bacteria.

So, what does an overwatered Hoya look like? How do you know if your plant is overwatered?

There are some tell-tale signs of an overwatered Hoya. If the leaves are curling and the soil looks wet, the first thing you should do is to check the roots. Carefully lift the plant from its pot and, if you see roots that are dark, mushy and foul-smelling, then overwatering is probably the culprit.

Keep in mind that root rot can also be caused by using the wrong pot or a soil mix with poor aeration. Pots that do not have enough drainage holes can lead to waterlogged soil, and this can be made worse if your soil is dense or compact, as that will also tend to hold more water. Standing water will cut off the oxygen supply that keeps the roots alive and healthy, and unfortunately, dead roots cannot be revived. If you do not act quickly, the rot will soon spread to the other, healthy roots and throughout the rest of the plant, leading to your Hoya’s early demise.

2. Underwatering

If you are a neglectful gardener, here is some good news: Hoya kerrii plants do not require tons of water to thrive and can survive dry spells up to a point, due to their succulent nature. You can let your Hoya’s soil dry out completely before the next watering, and the plant will not mind at all.

However, you can only allow the soil to stay completely dry up to a certain point. Excessive dryness, especially during summer, can cause stunted growth and leaf curling. If the soil is left dry for too long, your plant might not be able to recover. 

3. Plant stress due to temperature fluctuations

Hoya kerrii thrives in temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit; any temperatures that are too hot or too cold for the plant can cause stress. It is fairly easy to know when a Hoya is temperature stressed – its leaves will start to curl and turn yellow or brown.

Unfortunately, maintaining an ideal indoor climate can be challenging for most growers. Thus, it is not uncommon to see a Hoya kerrii struggling with temperature fluctuations at some point. If you notice your plant’s leaves curling and changing color, check your indoor temperatures and, if necessary, take measures to keep them within the plant’s comfort zone.

4. Lack of humidity

Your Hoya kerrii loves humidity. These succulent-like plants hail from tropical areas where the environment is quite humid, so if you want to speed your plant’s growth a bit, then keeping it in humid conditions will go a long way!

Although Hoyas can tolerate a degree of dry air, they do need at least 50 percent humidity for proper growth and propagation. Growing them indoors without sufficient humidity can cause several problems such as browning and curling of the leaves, stunted growth, and drooping. 

5. Spider mite infestation

Pests like spider mites can significantly damage the leaves of your Hoya kerrii. These tiny, sap-sucking creatures dehydrate the plant by sucking the sap from its leaves, causing them to curl or wrinkle.

Spider mites are about one millimeter – or 1/32 of an inch – long, and look like tiny white or black spiders. In the early stages of infestation, it can be quite tricky to spot them on the leaves due to their minuscule size. You will probably only start seeing the tell-tale signs of the infestation once it has become large and the foliage damage is obvious. 

6. Leaf burn due to direct sunlight exposure

Hoyas thrive in areas with medium to bright, indirect sunlight. However, they can also tolerate exposure to about two hours of direct sunlight per day. Thus, it should be perfectly fine to let your Hoya kerrii enjoy the morning or afternoon sunshine.

Keep in mind, though, that too much exposure to direct sunlight can be harmful to your plant’s leaves! The sun’s intense heat causes its transpiration rate to increase, which can burn and curl the leaves. Loss of moisture from the foliage is just one sign that your Hoya is struggling with oppressive heat. If you do not correct the issue, the prolonged sun exposure will eventually cause irreversible damage and could even kill your plant.

7. Transplant shock

Hoya kerriis do not generally need to be repotted frequently. These succulent-like plants actually prefer to be slightly root-bound, so it is best to leave them in their original container for years. 

However, there are times when repotting is necessary. If you need to transfer your Hoya to a new pot and fresh soil mix, it is likely that its leaves will curl due to transplant stress. Do not worry – this curling should only last for a short time. Once the roots have re-established themselves and your plant has acclimatized to its new container, its leaves should bounce back to their normal, healthy shape! 

How do you fix curling leaves?

Once you have identified the cause of your Hoya’s curling leaves, it should be relatively easy to return it to its usual shape and vigor. Here are some tips to help you fix the leaf curling issue:

1. Correct your watering habits

Because Hoyas behave a bit similarly to succulents, they are also especially vulnerable to root damage due to inappropriate watering habits. These plants are excellent at retaining water for extended periods, so they will likely survive under the care of neglectful gardeners. 

However, if you want your plant to really flourish and grow beautifully, you need to avoid both underwatering or overwatering. Here are some useful tips you can follow:

• Water your plant only when the soil is dry. 
• Feel the top layer of soil by inserting your finger about one to two inches deep. Water the plant if the soil feels dry, but if it is wet or moist, wait a bit longer before watering.
• Use a soil moisture meter for even more accurate moisture readings without getting your hands dirty.
• Use pots with sufficient drainage holes and an airy soil mix. This will prevent excess water from sitting at the bottom of your pot and save your plant from root rot.

2. Repot if necessary

As mentioned, frequent repotting will not benefit your Hoya, because these plants prefer to be slightly rootbound. It is usually better if they are left in their original pots for about three years, unless there are valid reasons to repot. 

For example, if the roots are expanding and become very dense, then you might need to transplant your plant to a bigger container. Another possible scenario is when you want to save your plant from a fungal disease. 

3. Proper lighting and temperature

Sunlight exposure and temperature are two of the biggest factors that affect plant growth. That means that if you want to keep your Hoya in tip-top shape, you need to provide appropriate indoor growing conditions year-round. 

First, ensure that your plant receives sufficient sunlight daily. You can place it near an east- or north-facing window to receive enough light while avoiding the most intense heat of the sun. Hoyas can also tolerate direct sunlight, as long as you do not overdo it. Let the plant enjoy a maximum of two hours of direct sunlight and it should still be perfectly fine.

Second, protect your indoor plants from harsh weather and fluctuating temperatures. For example, during the winter months, keep your Hoya in a room with a mild and constant temperature. Avoid placing it near an open window or balcony where it would be exposed to cold drafts. Also keep it away from heating devices or air conditioners to prevent foliage damage.

Should your plant end up accidentally exposed to cold temperatures, move it right away to a room where it can warm up. Some of its leaves might curl, but your plant should recover quickly. 

4. Invest in a humidifier

Humidifiers can be real plant-savers, especially during the seasons when the indoor air is most dry. To prevent your Hoya’s leaves from curling, install a humidifier in the room to maintain the ideal humidity for it. 

Alternatively, you could also place your Hoya in a humid room, like the bathroom. Just keep in mind not to mist its leaves, because although it loves humid conditions, too much moisture can attract fungal pathogens and cause serious damage to the foliage.

5. Treat pest infestations promptly

There are many options available to treat a pest-infested plant. One of the most effective treatments is insecticidal soap. Simply mix about five tablespoons of soap per gallon of water and spray the solution on the leaves and stems.

Another option is neem oil. This natural pest repellent is extracted from the seeds of the neem tree. Because neem oil is made of organic ingredients, it is completely safe to use on your Hoya to eradicate the pests.

Creating a mix of dish soap and water might work, too! If your plant is infested with aphids or fungus gnats, this solution should help get rid of their eggs and larvae.

To get rid of spider mites, you can also use alcohol diluted with water. Mix one cup of alcohol with about 30 oz of water and put the solution in a spray bottle. Then spray the affected leaves, especially on the undersides where mites love to hide, and wipe them off using a clean cotton cloth or paper towel.  

Conclusion

Although Hoya kerrii is a neglect-tolerant plant, there are some situations that will cause its leaves to curl and turn brown or yellow. These signs are generally indicators that your plant is struggling with an environmental stressor – this could range from incorrect watering to pest infestations.

Try to get to the bottom of this, because only once you have figured out the problem can you apply the appropriate fix to get your Hoya’s lovely leaves back in good shape!

Image: istockphoto.com / phollapat

Alocasia, also known as elephant ear or African mask, is a popular houseplant with large, attractive foliage. The leaves have a deep green color with white veins running through them, creating a unique pattern that brings a tropical vibe to any indoor space.

Although not highly susceptible to many diseases, Alocasias are not completely immune to certain problems, and if you notice your plant’s leaves turning brown, you will need to do some investigation to determine the cause and take the appropriate action. Leaf scorch due to direct sunlight exposure is very often the cause, but it might also have to do with long-term neglect or inappropriate growing conditions.

Hopefully, this guide will help you determine why your Alocasia’s leaves are turning brown, as well as what you can do to save your plant.

Why are my Alocasia leaves turning brown?

1. Dehydration due to underwatering

Underwatering an Alocasia will, in time, result in dry, crispy, brown leaves and receding soil. It is extremely important to maintain a regular watering schedule to avoid such excessive dryness.

Alocasia plants come from tropical areas and cannot survive in extremely dry soil. They need to sit in slightly damp soil to keep their foliage healthy and attractive. If you notice your plant’s leaves drooping and losing their structure, The first thing you should do is assess the soil’s moisture levels.

Most growers recommend the finger method to determine the moisture level of the soil. To do this, insert your finger about two inches into the soil near the plant’s stem. If the soil feels dry, it is probably time to water your Alocasia!

An even better way to obtain an accurate moisture content reading is by using a soil moisture meter like the one from XLUX. It is an elegant option if you want to check the soil’s moisture content at root level without getting your hands dirty. This way, you can make an informed decision about when to water your plants.

2. Too much fertilizer

Fertilizing your Alocasia is key to producing and maintaining stunning foliage. However, it can be quite easy to overfertilize your plant, especially if you are a novice gardener. Aside from the leaf tips and edges turning brown, you will also notice defoliation and significant root damage.

Too much fertilizer can make the soil toxic due to the accumulation of residual salts. This buildup around the roots disrupts the absorption of water and nutrients, causing your Alocasia to look sick. 

The best approach is to start off slowly when it comes to fertilizing, and monitor how your plant reacts. It is also recommended that you feed your Alocasia only during its growing season, and never during its dormant period.

If you suspect your plant is overfertilized, do not lose heart! Depending on the severity of the damage, you may still be able to save your plant by flushing the soil with water. You can do this once a month to remove the excess salts from the soil. 

3. Nutrient deficiency

While too much fertilizer can have detrimental effects on your plant, the lack (or absence) thereof can also lead to undesirable effects.

Alocasias are heavy feeders whose natural habitat is rich in essential nutrients. Unfortunately, growing them indoors will not provide them those nutrients naturally, and this lack of nutrition can cause their leaves to turn brown or yellow. For this reason, it is important to feed your plant with a good-quality fertilizer to ensure proper growth and healthy leaves.

If your plant shows symptoms of nutrient deficiency, you can treat it using a water-soluble fertilizer with a balanced nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (NPK) ratio of 20-20-20. Begin with a weak solution by diluting the liquid and feeding the plant once a month. As your plant grows, gradually increase the strength and feed it up to twice a month.

As mentioned before, do not fertilize your plant during the cold months, as this is when it is dormant and will not use as much food. Thus, excess fertilizer can build up in the soil and cause root damage. Fertilizer should only be used during spring and summer when Alocasias do the most growing.

4. Exposure to cold drafts

Alocasias are warmth-loving plants and cannot tolerate cold climates or frost. Temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit can be too cold for these tropical plants, causing leaf problems like browning or yellowing.

Remember that prevention is always better than cure, so make sure to protect your plant from cold drafts. During the winter season, keep it away from open doors or windows. If your plant succumbs to the extreme cold, unfortunately the damage can be permanent and you may struggle to bring it back to life.

5. Low humidity

Alocasias thrive in humidity of 50 to 60 percent in their natural habitat. These levels can be tricky to maintain in the average home, and if your plant is not getting the right humidity, it will begin to display symptoms like drooping and browning leaves. The reason for this is that the soil will dry faster if the air is dry. The lack of moisture in the environment also increases plant transpiration and, hence, causes the dry and crisp leaves.

The best way to maintain the appropriate humidity level for these plants is to invest in a humidifier. These devices often come with built-in humidity meters to ensure that your living area has a comfortable climate for you and your houseplants. 

6. Temperature stress

Alocasias naturally grow best in temperatures between 65 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures below 50 degrees can make them go dormant, while those above 90 degrees Fahrenheit can burn the foliage, causing the leaves to turn brown and crispy.

Unfortunately, changes in the weather are beyond our control. But there are ways to protect your plant from the stress caused by extreme temperature fluctuations.

First, make sure to keep your plant indoors during the colder seasons. Also avoid watering it in the evening, since the temperature usually drops at night and you do not want the plant to have wet foliage or overly wet soil at this time. Watering in the morning is best; this will also keep the roots hydrated before the oppressive heat of the day starts.

You can also add mulch over the soil – its insulating effect will help protect the plant from varying weather conditions. Every savvy gardener finds mulch a plant-saver!

Lastly, keep your plant away from open areas where it can be exposed to extreme temperatures. Use row covers or shade cloths if you choose to plant your Alocasia outdoors. It is also recommended to keep your plant somewhere with partial shade, so it can enjoy the morning or afternoon sunlight.

7. Lack of sunlight

You will know fairly quickly if your Alocasia is not receiving enough sunlight, because its leaves will turn yellow or brown.

A light-deprived plant will struggle to produce its own energy to grow. Photosynthesis requires sunlight and is an important process for the production of chlorophyll, the green pigment commonly found in plants. Hence, without sufficient sunlight, your Alocasia will not be able to produce or maintain its vibrant, arrow-shaped leaves. It will also develop soft stems that will make it appear droopy and sick.

But do not worry – you can save your plant. As soon as you move it to an area that gets sufficient indirect sunlight, it should return to its normal, healthy appearance!

8. Pest infestation

Pests like mealybugs, aphids, spider mites, and scale insects can cause great damage to your houseplants. These bugs attack the stems and leaves by piercing them and sucking out the sap. This causes brown lesions on the damaged plant tissue.

The easiest way to get rid of this nuisance is to apply an insecticidal soap. Neem oil also works great if you want an organic pesticide. Apply the solution weekly on the affected plant until all the pests are gone. You can also use a mixture of alcohol and water to clean the leaves and remove any crawling bugs you see.

9. Plant diseases

Infectious diseases caused by bacteria, parasites, and fungi can also cause Alocasia leaves to turn brown. These pathogenic organisms can greatly compromise the health of your houseplants – if you do not intervene right away, you may struggle to save your plant!

Depending on the type of disease, some of the symptoms you should watch out for are a droopy appearance, mushy stems and roots, a foul odor coming from the rotting roots, white powdery substance on the leaves, and splotchy or brown spots on the leaves that grow in size as the infection progresses.

If you suspect your plant is struggling with a disease, make sure to isolate it from the rest of your healthy plants immediately. Trim off any dying leaves, stems, or roots. Depending on the cause, apply the appropriate solutions to help save your plant, such as organic fungicides, baking soda diluted in water, or liquid soap.

10. Root rot due to overwatering

Overwatering is one of the leading causes of plant death. Although your Alocasia needs water to stay hydrated, it does not like waterlogged soil. Excess water that pools at the bottom of the pot can decompose the roots and invite pathogenic organisms that will exacerbate the problem. 

What does an overwatered Alocasia look like?

Plants affected with root rot will eventually lose their vigor and might show signs like browning leaves, wilting, and slow growth. If this goes on for extended periods, your Alocasia will start losing its leaves and eventually die.

To prevent overwatering, make sure to water your plant only when the top layer of soil is dry. As mentioned before, you can test the soil using your finger or a soil moisture probe. Also make sure your pot has enough drainage holes for excess water to flow out and prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged.

11. Exposure to direct sunlight

The intense heat from the sun is harmful to most plants – exposure to direct sunlight can dry or burn the leaves. Alocasia plants that are exposed to full sunlight for prolonged periods will show scorched, brown leaves and a droopy appearance.

To avoid such exposure, it is best to place your plant near an east- or north-facing window. South-facing windows are usually very bright throughout the day and can harm your plants. You could also use curtains over the window to diffuse the incoming sunlight and make it gentler on the leaves.  

Conclusion

Alocasia leaves turning brown is a sign of an underlying issue such as inappropriate watering, incorrect use of fertilizer, too much or too little sunlight, temperature stress, pests, or plant diseases. To revive your plant, it is important to understand the reason behind the browning leaves so that you can apply the appropriate solution. Make sure to give your plant all the care it needs so that you can bring it back to health and enjoy its strong, beautiful leaves for years to come.

Image: istockphoto.com / Ekaterina Petruhan

Have you ever wondered how to keep your tropical climbing plants growing upwards? A moss pole could be just the solution you are looking for!

A moss pole is a great accessory for any vining plant, as it helps control the plant’s direction of growth. It also helps prevent the vines from bending and possibly being damaged due to a lack of structure. With a moss pole, you can provide physical support for your climbing plants and ensure that they grow just the way you want them to.

However, moss poles can be difficult to maintain, because they can dry out quite easily. They need a consistent water source to stay moist and healthy.

This guide will show you the various ways you can keep your moss pole moist at all times, and your plants well hydrated.

Why a moss pole needs to be moist

A moss pole mimics the moist, mossy bark on trees that support vining plants in the wild. Vining plants like Pothos, Monstera, and Philodendron are best grown with moss poles if you want them to grow upwards instead in random directions or flat across the floor. Moss poles can also help you keep your vining houseplants looking neat if you do not intend to plant them in hanging pots.

However, you do need to keep your moss pole moist to prevent it from dying. Furthermore, if it is too dry, the aerial roots of your plant will not attach to the pole. In their natural habitat, tree bark would be somewhat moist and provide a secondary source of water for the vining plants. Hence, keeping the pole damp by watering it at least three times a week will ensure happier vining plants. 

Should I water my moss pole?

Yes, watering your moss pole regularly will keep it healthy and will also benefit your vining plants. If you leave it to dry out for too long, it will not look good and will be useless to your plants. Dried moss poles are also difficult to revive, so make sure to water yours regularly, as you do with your houseplants.

There are several ways to keep your moss pole moist. The easiest is to pour water directly into the pole, but there are also some other creative ways to do it, especially if you are forgetful. These are explained further below.

How to keep your moss pole moist

1. Water your moss pole

It is best to water the moss pole at the same time as you water your houseplants. Watering the pole will also allow some water to drip into the soil, hence keeping your plant hydrated, too. 

However, do keep your watering habits in check to prevent overwatering! When excess water pools at the bottom of the pot, the plant’s roots become vulnerable to root rot and fungal diseases. Make sure that the pot has sufficient drainage holes for the excess water to escape. You can also use a soil moisture meter as a guide to determine whether your plant needs watering or not.

2. Regularly mist the moss pole

Another easy method to keep your moss pole hydrated is to spray it with water every day. Most growers prefer to mist their moss pole in the morning, before the oppressive heat from the sun dries it out.

Make sure to spray the entire pole, from top to bottom. A mistake that some gardeners make is to mist only the top portion of the pole, leaving the bottom dry. Keep in mind that the whole length of the moss pole must remain moist to keep it green and useful for your vining plants. 

3. Make a drip water bottle

We all sometimes forget to water our indoor plants, especially on the busiest days! However, leaving your moss pole dry for long periods can have irreversible effects. As mentioned, if it becomes too dry, it will be very challenging to revive it. So, instead of worrying about your regular watering schedule, why not automate it? 

A simple DIY method to keep your moss pole and plants happy is to create a slow drip system. You do not need any fancy tools or special skills to do this – all you need is an empty plastic bottle and some tape or wire. Plus, it is a great way to recycle unused plastic bottles, instead of throwing them away!

Here are the steps to make your own drip bottle:

• Get a clean, empty, plastic bottle with a cap. You can use any size you like, depending on how large your moss pole is.
• Grab a needle and heat it over a flame. Use this to make, at the most, four holes in the bottle cap. You can also use a soldering iron with a fine tip to do this.
• Fill the plastic bottle with clean water and put on the cap (with holes).
• Attach the bottle, in an inverted position, to the moss pole. Secure it using tape or a piece of wire. Make sure that you place the set-up away from any disturbances like household pets.

4. Set up a wicking system

Another popular way to keep a moss pole moist is to set up a wick watering system. All you need is a wicking cord and a planter filled with water to create this simple DIY project.

A wicking system is highly recommended to keep your indoor plants and moss pole moist without overwatering them. Since most houseplants require moderate watering, this automated system will help fulfill the basic watering requirements for your moss pole and your plants. 

Here is how to do it: Tie one end of the wicking cord to the moss pole and dip the other end into the planter (or any container) filled with water. The wicking cord will absorb water from the planter and remain moist, hence keeping the moss pole hydrated throughout the day. This simple system will also help keep the aerial roots of your vining plants healthy and hydrated.

5. Use a humidifier

Placing a humidifier in your growing area will benefit your moss pole-supported houseplants. It works by heating water and releasing the water vapor into the environment. This keeps the air moist and a bit humid, which is a perfect growing environment for your plants. The device is especially helpful during the cold seasons where the air tends to be drier. 

Most plants need at least 50 percent humidity to thrive. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to maintain the appropriate humidity level indoors, due to varying temperatures and weather conditions. With a humidifier, however, you can easily set your desired humidity level in your living space, no matter what the weather is outdoors. Just be sure to keep the humidifier away from any furniture made of wood!

6. Use pebble trays

Although there is some controversy regarding the effectiveness of pebble trays, you might still want to try this method if you do not have a humidifier at home. Pebble trays can help add moisture to the environment through the water that evaporates from the tray. 

Just fill some trays with pebbles and water and place them under your plants. Make sure that the water does not reach the roots, to prevent root rot! 

7. Keep the plant in the bathroom

If you have enough space for your plants in the bathroom, it might be a good place to keep your moss pole moist. The bathroom (as well as the kitchen) can get quite steamy when hot water runs from the taps, and when the steam makes contact with a cold surface like tiles or leaves, it creates moisture, or water droplets. This is why bathrooms provide an ideal humid environment for your plants.

The only downside is that bathrooms tend to become cooler and less humid when not used at night. This temperature fluctuation can cause plant stress so the bathroom might just be a temporary solution if you need to hydrate your plants. If you are looking for a sustainable solution, then investing in a humidifier would be the better option.

8. Do not place the moss pole in windy areas

Too much wind can easily damage the fragile stems of vining plants. Strong wind can also increase the evaporation rate of water and cause the moss pole to lose its moisture very quickly. To ensure that the pole retains enough moisture, keep your plants away from open areas with strong winds. 

Wrapping it up

Moss poles add physical support to your climbing plants to facilitate upward growth and ensure healthy aerial roots. They also help keep your plants looking organized, as they can train them to grow in a narrow shape to help save horizontal space. However, they can be a challenge to maintain since these poles require consistent moisture to thrive. 

There are several techniques you can employ to keep your moss pole and indoor plants hydrated. Hopefully, you have found all the tips in this guide helpful!

Image: istockphoto.com / Konstantin Dmitriev

Anthuriums are among the favorites when it comes to indoor houseplants, and for good reason. These lovely, tropical plants can make any living space more attractive and stress-free, thanks to their glossy, colorful flowers. They are also hardy and super-easy to care for!

However, if an Anthurium’s leaves start curling, it can be cause for serious concern!

Leaf curling in an Anthurium can be due to several issues, ranging from inappropriate watering to pest infestations, and each problem must be addressed differently. So, to fix this issue, it is clearly important that you understand the cause of the curling leaves before you can take effective action.

How do you fix curling Anthurium leaves?

A lack of water is the most common cause of Anthurium leaves curling. If you have been neglecting your plant for some time, then correcting your watering habits might be all you need to get your plant’s beautiful leaves back.

However, if the plant does not respond, you will have to do some detective work to troubleshoot what has caused the leaves to curl. Look for other symptoms such as leaf discoloration, a droopy appearance, soft stems, or mushy roots. These could be signs of damaged roots, sunburn, pest infestations, or plant stress.

If you notice your Anthurium losing its grace and beauty, do not lose hope! Below are some of the common causes and fixes to help you save your plant. 

Why are my Anthurium’s leaves curling?

1. Growth of new leaves

Some Anthurium varieties tend to grow new leaves that appear curly. As long as the older leaves do not look wrinkled, your plant should be perfectly fine! Give the young leaves some time to flatten out and it should look as beautiful as before.

2. Low light conditions

If your plant’s leaves are curly and have also become pale, these symptoms are typical of an Anthurium that is not receiving sufficient sunlight.

The light, whether it comes from the sun or an artificial source, helps plants produce food – and thus energy – through the process of photosynthesis. It is also through this process that the Anthurium can maintain the green of its leaves and produce its dazzling flowers. 

Anthuriums thrive in areas with medium or indirect sunlight, so if you notice some leaf discoloration and curling, your plant might just need a bit more light to regain its normal leaf color and shape. Just be sure not to expose it to direct sunlight, as this can cause leaf burn. Try moving it closer to a sunny window that has curtains to diffuse the light, or to your balcony where it can enjoy the early morning or late afternoon sun.

3. Overwatering

Not all gardeners are aware of the damaging effects of overwatering. Anthuriums have huge, fleshy roots that cannot survive in soggy soil. The excess water can severely damage these delicate roots and lead to some serious problems, such as root rot, fungal and bacterial diseases, and nutrient uptake issues. 

So, what does an overwatered Anthurium look like? The early signs are usually curling and yellowing of the leaves. Unfortunately, these signs can quite easily be mistaken for underwatering, in which case the common reaction is to give the plant more water. Thus, without understanding the underlying issue, a lot of gardeners, especially those new to the gardening world, can inadvertently send their Anthuriums to an untimely demise. 

Here are some tricks to avoid overwatering your plants:

• Water only when the top layer of soil is dry. But do not rely on the visuals – soil can sometimes look dry even if the bottom is still wet! Instead, test the soil using your finger (or a soil moisture probe) to determine whether it is dry enough for the next watering. 
• Use a pot with drainage holes, and a soil mix with good aeration. Adding perlite and organic matter to the potting mix does wonders to provide a balance between moisture retention and aeration.

4. Underwatering

Anthuriums are native to tropical America and are not drought-tolerant, so never neglect their watering needs for too long! If the soil becomes too dry, your plant’s leaves will start to curl upwards or downwards. This is the Anthurium’s (and almost any plant’s) natural reaction to conserve its remaining leaf moisture. Prolonged soil dryness can also lead to wilting of the leaves and defoliation.

How often should you water your Anthurium?

These plants have light to medium watering requirements, so in most cases once a week should suffice. However, you might need to increase the frequency up to three times per week if you live in an area with hot weather. Just make sure to let the soil dry out completely before watering again.

5. Low humidity and temperature stress

Widely varying environmental temperatures can send your Anthurium into shock. If the temperature is outside of its comfort zone, the plant will start to wilt and its leaves will curl. Freezing weather can cause slower growth and yellowing of the leaves, while hot temperatures can burn the leaves and flowers. 

Anthuriums prefer temperatures between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the daytime and 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit at night. These tropical plants also require more than 50 percent humidity to produce healthy leaves and flowers. 

Although temperatures as high as 90 degrees Fahrenheit or as low as 45 degrees Fahrenheit can be tolerated, you might not see the plant’s full growth potential with continued exposure to such temperatures. As it approaches its maximum tolerance limit, it will eventually start to wilt and die.

There are many options to protect your Anthurium from temperature stress. During summer, you can install fans in your growing area to regulate the indoor temperature. You can also use a humidifier if the air becomes too dry, to ensure that your plant continues to flourish. 

6. Pest infestation

Pests can turn your beautiful Anthurium into an ugly mess in a very short time! These pesky bugs take residence on the stems, leaves and flowers of the plant, and reproduce very rapidly. They feed on the sap from the leaves and compete with the plant for nutrients, while also leaving sticky waste substances on the leaves. Over time, you will notice holes, blotches, and marks on the leaves that are unpleasant to look at. The leaves will also start curling in an effort to defend themselves, but without success. 

Some of the common pests found on Anthuriums include spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, and thrips. But there is no need to panic, as these bugs can be easily removed with insecticidal soap. You can also spray neem oil on the affected plant, focusing on the undersides of the leaves where pests love to hide. Continue the treatment weekly until all the pests are gone.

7. Repotting shock

Repotting leaves your Anthurium vulnerable to stress. The sudden change in soil composition can shock its root system and cause wilting and curling of the leaves. Additionally, if you are not careful during the process, you can damage the delicate roots. Plants with root damage will be less effective at absorbing nutrients and water, which can lead to more problems that manifest as leaf browning, slower growth, and dull-looking leaves.

The best thing you can do is to give your plant time to adjust to its new home while providing it with the best possible care. Anthuriums usually survive repotting stress, so if some of the roots are damaged during the transplant, do not worry! Your plant should be able to grow new roots and regain its health after a short recovery period.

8. Inappropriate pot size

Planting your Anthurium in a container of an inappropriate size can have serious consequences, including leaf curling, wilting, and discolorations.

If the pot is too large, the soil can take too long to dry and, like with overwatering, the excess moisture can encourage fungal growth and lead to root rot. 

If the pot is too small, your Anthurium will likely become rootbound as there is not enough space for root expansion. As a result, it will struggle with nutrient uptake and its growth will be stunted.

To avoid these issues, make sure to choose the correct pot size for your plant. If its current pot is too large, consider repotting it in a slightly smaller pot. If you notice roots growing out from the pot’s drainage holes, then consider a pot about two inches larger in diameter than the current one.

9. Poor water quality

Tap water is usually the most convenient source of water for your plants. However, it is actually harmful to houseplants – including the Anthurium – because of its undesirable mineral content, including chlorine, fluoride, and salt. These chemicals can build up in the soil over time and damage the plant’s root system. 

An anthurium that constantly receives unfiltered tap water will start to have dry and curly leaves. Of course, this depends to a degree on the quality of tap water where you live, as some is better than others.

If you notice white or yellow crusts forming on top of the soil, this is a sure sign of mineral build-up. To correct the problem, carefully remove the plant from its pot and wash away any build-up that you see on the roots. Then repot your Anthurium in a fresh soil mix. 

As much as possible, you should try to use filtered water for your plants. If this is not available, fill a bucket with tap water and let it sit uncovered overnight to allow the minerals to evaporate. You can also collect rain water and use this instead for your plants.

Wrapping it up

If the leaves on your Anthurium are curling, it is usually a sign of plant stress. This could have something to do with inappropriate growing conditions or long-term neglect from the owner. 

Fortunately, these lovely plants are tough! If you are able to spot the problem early and act quickly, then your Anthurium should be easily revived. Make sure to identify the source of the problem and get to work immediately on the solution to bring your plant back to full health.

Image: istockphoto.com / BSPollard

ZZ plants are well-known for their tolerance to low light conditions – but that does not mean they will grow happily or optimally when completely deprived of sunlight.

Like many houseplants, ZZs do better when exposed to 12 hours of indirect or filtered sunlight daily. Too much sunlight can burn their leaves, while too little light can cause stunted growth.  

If you have just started growing a ZZ plant, you will need to understand the best lighting conditions to keep it in tip-top shape. Read on to learn about the ideal light range for your ZZ, as well as the ill effects of exposing your plants to more or less light.

Do ZZ plants require sunlight?

The answer to this question is quite obvious – all plants, including ZZs, need sunlight to survive.

However, for most novice gardeners, it may be easy to assume that ZZ plants will do well without any sunlight because they are known to be forgiving and can tolerate neglect. However, this does not mean that ZZs are indestructible – they can only survive so long without proper care and love!

ZZ plants rely on sunlight to create their own “food.” This vital process is known as photosynthesis. Aside from light, they also need oxygen, water, and soil nutrients in order to grow and flourish. Once the plants have harvested the sun’s energy and performed their vital cellular functions, they produce oxygen as a byproduct which benefits other living organisms, including us, on earth.

A light-deprived ZZ plant will struggle to carry on these functions, regardless of the abundance of water, oxygen, and nutrients in the soil. Without the sun, it will stop growing to conserve its remaining energy and continue surviving. With extended periods of low light, it will eventually reach its limits and die.

How much light do ZZ plants need?

There is a huge difference between a plant growing well and a plant barely surviving.

While it is true that ZZ plants can survive longer than most without sunlight, they can still suffer the consequences that manifest through symptoms such as drooping, legginess, and defoliation. Your plant might be surviving, but it will look sick and unattractive!

If you want your plant to flourish and reach its full potential, you should not deprive it of sunlight. But how much sunlight do ZZ plants actually need to grow healthily? First, you need to know about their natural habitat to help you understand their needs.

ZZ plants, or Zamioculcas zamiifolia, originated from the forests of East Africa. This area is located at the equator, where the daily sunlight totals around 12 hours. ZZ plants inhabit the canopy layer of the forest, where they can enjoy hours of filtered sunlight. Thus, to ensure proper growth in your home, you need to place your ZZ in a spot that gets as close to 12 hours of indirect sunlight as possible. 

Unfortunately, not all ZZ owners live in areas with such long days, especially during the winter season. This makes it more challenging to provide their plants with the requisite hours of indirect sunlight. But remember that ZZ plants can survive on less than 12 hours of light – as mentioned before, they are extremely resilient and can survive a certain time in less-than-ideal lighting. 

The only problem with light-deprived ZZ plants is that they will not look great overall. Their leaves will start to go pale or yellow because they are not able to produce enough chlorophyll. Over time, they will also become leggy and sparse as their stems stretch out in search of new light sources. As the plant reaches its light tolerance limit, it will eventually droop, weaken, and die.

Summertime is the ideal season to allow your ZZ plant to enjoy indirect sunlight for 12 hours (or even more). Or, if you do not have the perfect spot for indirect sunlight, you can use artificial grow lights instead (more on this later).

Direct versus indirect sunlight – what is the difference?

We have repeatedly mentioned the importance of indirect sunlight for our indoor plants, as well as the negative effects of exposing them to direct sunlight. But what is the difference between direct and indirect sunlight?

Direct sunlight refers to the unfiltered path of light from the sun to your plant. You usually get this type of light through south- or southwest-facing windows. Since this light is very intense for most plants, it can cause wilting and scorching of the leaves. Your ZZ plant will not be able to tolerate the heat from direct sunlight.

On the flip side, indirect sunlight is sunlight that passes or reflects through a medium before reaching your plant. This could be found in many areas in your home where there is bright light without the direct heat of the sun hitting your plant’s foliage. ZZ plants do better in filtered sunlight since it allows them to perform photosynthesis without harming their leaves. Windows facing east are usually a good source of indirect sunlight for plants.

If you are not sure about the type of light your ZZ plant is receiving, simply place your hand between the light source and your plant. If your hand makes a shadow or you can feel the heat, then the light is too direct. In that case, move your plant to another spot with less direct light.

Can ZZ plants live in low light?

As mentioned, ZZ plants can tolerate low light conditions, but only for a limited period. Without the sun, your plant cannot produce its own food and energy to survive. 

So, how do you know if your ZZ plant is light-deprived? What are the symptoms?

If you suspect your plant is are not getting enough sunlight, look out for these signs:

• Your plant looks leggy or stretched-out, and bare. This condition is called etiolation.
• The leaves are smaller and have bigger gaps between them.
• The plant seems to lean more to one side, rather than growing symmetrically. This is because it is trying to capture as much light as possible by leaning toward a brighter spot.
• The stem becomes soft and droopy.
• The leaves look pale instead of dark green.

Can ZZ plants handle bright light?

As mentioned previously, plants that are exposed to direct, unfiltered sunlight will likely suffer from leaf burn. That is because most indoor plants like ZZs are sensitive to the sun’s heat. Elevated temperatures can increase the plants’ transpiration rate, causing them to lose moisture from their leaves faster than usual. This can result in brown, crispy leaves, especially the top ones that are most exposed to the sunlight. Unfortunately, this injury is irreversible – once the leaves are damaged, you can only trim them off and give your plant the necessary care to encourage new growth.

Choosing the best location for your ZZ

Most growers recommend placing your ZZ plant near an east-facing window, because this is the perfect spot for indirect sunlight. Try to make sure that your plant gets about 12 hours of bright, filtered light each day, especially during the growing season.

It is also recommended that you place your plant in an area where there are no temperature fluctuations or drafts. ZZ plants prefer temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit – anything below or above this range can cause plant stress. Do not place your plant near a window with hot, direct sunlight, and during the colder months, keep it away from open doors and windows.

Can you keep ZZ plants in a room with no windows?

For plant parents who do not have enough windows for their ZZ plants, there is another option, which is artificial grow lights.

Grow lights are designed with light bulbs that mimic sunlight, so if you cannot find the perfect spot for your ZZ, or if there is too little sunlight during the winter season, then these artificial lights should suffice to keep your plant happy and thriving. Grow lights like GooingTop provide the full spectrum of sunlight at 6000 Kelvin, which is ideal for ZZ plants. Of course, there are other LED grow lights available, but make sure they fall within the range of 3500 to 6500 Kelvin. Otherwise, you will not get the best growing results.

You also need to make sure that the plant’s foliage is about 18 inches away from the artificial light source. If you set it too close, it might burn the leaves, just like exposing the plant to direct sunlight. Aim for at least 12 hours of light exposure, but you can also increase it to 14 or 16 hours. 

Can you keep ZZ plants outside during summer?

If you want to give your plant a little boost of energy, you can place it outside during spring and summer. Just keep in mind that the same rules apply as if it were indoors.

First, make sure your plant sits in a shaded area – as mentioned, ZZs cannot tolerate bright, direct sunlight. For example, you could place it on a covered patio, near other, taller plants, or on a porch with an overhang. Make sure that the outdoor temperature is within the plant’s comfort zone (which is 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit), and watch out for any sudden temperature drops at night! If it is too cold, then you should avoid placing your plant outdoors.

It is also important to gradually acclimatize your plant to the outdoors to prevent environmental shock. For example, you can put it outside for a couple of hours each day, gradually increasing the time until eventually it can stay outside throughout the day.

Lastly, plants can dry out more easily when kept outside, so make sure to adjust your watering schedule accordingly. Water your plant as soon as the topsoil becomes dry to prevent underwatering issues.

Conclusion

Many growers fall in love with ZZ plants because of their beautiful foliage and great resilience to sub-optimal growing conditions. However, even ZZ plants have their limits, and this applies to low light levels, too. If you do not provide your plant with sufficient light, eventually that attractive, dark-green foliage you once admired will become lifeless and sad. 

Thankfully, these hardy plants can quickly recover as soon as you spot and correct the problem. Move your plant to a spot that gets lots of bright, indirect sunlight, or get an artificial grow light, and it is sure to reward you with healthy and vibrant growth!

Image: istockphoto.com / Zaikina

Container gardening makes it convenient to grow almost any houseplant inside the home, on a balcony, or in an outdoor garden with limited space. ZZ plants, for example, can be grown in your living room to add a visual appeal to your space. 

In order to keep your ZZ beautiful and flourishing, you must make sure that all their basic needs are met – and that includes planting it in the right-sized pot!

If you are not sure how to select the right pot size for your ZZ, then this guide is for you. We will share the must-have features you need to look for when choosing a pot, including the pot sizes and pot types.  

The importance of choosing the right pot size

ZZ plants are slow-growers. Under normal conditions, it can take a few years before a ZZ grows to a few feet high. Sometimes, though, these plants can grow a bit faster in areas with optimal temperature, water, and lighting conditions. Then, their roots will start to take up more and more space in the planter, and this can leave them root-bound. You might even notice some roots starting to grow out of the container’s drainage holes.

If the pot is too small, there will be less soil and more roots, and thus fewer nutrients available for the plant. This will also limit the growth of new roots. A plant that is too constricted in its container will have stunted growth and start to look generally sick.

On the flip side, if the pot is too large for the plant, you risk overwatering it. The larger volume of soil will stay wet for longer, thus increasing the risk of root rot, yellowing leaves, and your plant’s early demise.

For this reason, it is extremely important to choose the correct pot size for your ZZ. The pot should allow enough space for growth so you do not have to repot it too frequently, without being overly large for the plant’s current size.

How to select the right pot size for your ZZ

There are a few things to keep in mind when choosing a pot size for your ZZ plant. These are summarized below:

• ZZ plants grow well when their pots are two inches bigger in diameter than their rootball (if you are using a round planter). If you are repotting your ZZ, make sure the new pot is also about two inches larger than the current one.
• Make sure you know how to measure the size of your pot. Pots and planters come in different shapes, so they might be measured in different ways. The most common ones are round planters and the sizes are usually specified in terms of diameter. Others might come in different shapes and may be measured in terms of trade gallons (volume of soil).
• If you want to repot your ZZ into a very large pot, you may want to avoid terracotta, marble, or metal pots, as these large-sized planters can be too heavy to move around the house.
• Do not hesitate to ask advice from gardening experts at your local plant shop if you are not sure about the right pot size for your ZZ plant.

Other must-have features of pots

Choosing the right pot can be a challenging task for novice gardeners. If you are just starting to grow ZZ plants indoors or in your outdoor garden, do check out these other factors before making your selection:

1. Drainage holes

Drainage holes, no matter what pot type or shape you choose, are extremely important to protect your plant from standing water. 

Roots need oxygen to survive, and if excess water is allowed to accumulate in the pot, it closes off all the tiny air pockets in the soil, thus cutting off the supply of oxygen to the roots. This can lead to root rot and fungal diseases.

With drainage holes, any excess water can flow freely from the container after watering. This will prevent the bottom of the soil from becoming waterlogged, hence protecting the plant’s sensitive roots from fungus and root rot.

2. Inner and outer pots

Some growers recommend planting a ZZ in a combined inner and outer pot. A plastic inner pot, with drainage holes, is often preferable as it is lighter and easier to move. Keep in mind that there are also other pot types you can choose, like ceramic and eco pots (this will be further described later). 

Next, the inner pot with holes is placed inside another outer pot (without drain holes). This is for convenience and aesthetics. Later, you can just change the outer pot if you want to give your plant a new look by trying other pot designs with different colors or textures. You can also reuse the outer pot repeatedly and only change the inner pot when repotting.

There are many types of outer pots you can choose – some are ceramic while others are made from recycled plastics. As mentioned, these pots are designed without drainage holes, so they will catch any drips or runaway soil from the inner pot. Choose the right size so that the inner pot fits perfectly inside the outer pot.  

3. Pot trays

Pots with drainage holes are best paired with pot trays, especially if you intend to place your ZZ indoors. These trays help catch the excess water from the pot and prevent any mess. Just remember to throw away the excess water from the trays to prevent your plant from sitting in this water. You can also place your ZZ in a sink or outside to drain after watering, before returning it to its pot tray.

The best pot sizes for ZZ plants

Pots are generally available in three different sizes, as follows:

1. Small size (four to six inches)

The small size is usually what you would get when you initially buy your ZZ. Because ZZ plants are not heavy feeders and take months to grow, you can leave your plant in this small-sized planter for some time before it is ready to be transplanted to a new container.

Smaller pots are also preferable if you intend to put your ZZ indoors. They are light and easier to move around the house, and generally look good in indoor spaces.

You can also choose small pots if you plan to propagate your ZZ plant. Simply divide your plant by cutting off a few stems that have healthy leaves on them. Then, let the cuttings establish their own roots in the small pots.

2. Medium size ( seven to 10 inches)

If your ZZ has outgrown its original container, you will need to repot it in a medium-sized planter. This will give it enough space for its roots to grow for another few years without issues. 

3. Large size (above 10 inches)

Large-sized pots are usually for plants that are at least five feet tall. So, if you have been growing your ZZ for a long time and it has reached this height, you should consider this larger size.

However, indoor ZZs do not usually grow this tall in their lifetime, so it is quite rare to use such large pots for a ZZ. 

Hence, the best size for ZZ plants is usually medium, unless you plan to divide your plant every time it grows larger, in which case you can stick with the small pots. 

The best pot types for ZZ plants

1. Ceramic pots

Ceramic pots come with a lacquer coating to prevent the soil from drying out easily. Since the pot tends to hold moisture for longer periods, you will need to watch your watering habits closely to prevent overwatering your ZZ. Alternatively, use a ceramic pot as your outer pot, and another, better-draining pot as an inner pot.

Ceramic pots are designed with beautiful colors and textures that can give your ZZ an elegant look. Depending on your preferences, you can choose a matte or shiny finish, or one with a textured appearance.  

2. Plastic inner pots

We have mentioned before the advantage of using plastic pots as inner pots – they are lighter and easier to move. They usually come in very plain designs and colors, unlike the ceramic ones. But do not worry – if used as inner pots, you will not see them once they are placed inside outer pots. Just make sure these inner pots have drainage holes and fit well inside your preferred outer pots!

3. Eco plastic pots

Eco plastic pots are made from recycled plastics and natural stone. From the name itself, you can tell that these pots are completely recyclable and highly durable, lasting more than 10 years. Eco pots are also UV resistant, so if you choose one of these super-hardy containers for your ZZ, you are sure to save money on plant supplies as it will not easily fade or crack, no matter the weather.

Do ZZ plants like bigger pots?

ZZ plants do not appreciate being grown in pots that are overly large for their size. As mentioned before, larger pots tend to hold more moisture and put your ZZ at risk of developing root rot and fungal diseases. Furthermore, a ZZ plant in the correct pot size also looks better than in an oversized (or undersized) planter. 

Do ZZ plants need a deep pot?

ZZ plants are perfectly happy in a regular, small or medium-sized pot. Just remember that drainage holes are extremely important, so make sure to choose a pot that has them. It is also recommended to use the appropriate potting mix with good aeration to keep the roots healthy. Do not forget to repot your plants once every two to three years to prevent them from becoming rootbound.

Conclusion

Choosing the right pot size for your ZZ can be challenging if you are a newbie gardener. If you are just starting to grow a ZZ plant at home, you will find the repotting process is really quite easy – just make sure you do your research beforehand so that you understand the basic needs of your plants. This way, the repotting experience will be smooth and enjoyable for you and your plant!

Image: istockphoto.com / OleseaV

Curling leaves on a ZZ plant can be rather alarming for a grower, especially if they do not know what has caused the problem! If you notice your ZZ plant’s leaves curling, take a deep breath – your plant just probably needs a sip of water. 

Underwatering is the most common issue behind curling leaves, but sometimes it can also be due to other issues like pests, too much sunlight, exposure to cold temperatures, or the plant being rootbound. 

Keep reading to understand all the possible causes of leaf curling and discoloration, and what you can do to save your plant.

ZZ plant leaves curling – causes and fixes

1. Underwatering

Many novice growers make the mistake of underwatering their ZZ plants, in the belief that they can tolerate water scarcity for longer than they actually can. But this neglect comes at a price! Water is a basic requirement for any plant to survive, and if your ZZ is water-deprived, it will start trying to conserve its remaining moisture by curling its leaves to reduce their surface area. You might also notice the plant developing a droopy and sad-looking appearance, which is not the aesthetic you were aiming for in your living space!

The solution:

• Watering your ZZ plant once every two weeks should suffice. Increase the frequency if the weather is very hot and the soil dries out faster than normal.
• If you are not sure when to water your plant, here is a trick for you: Insert one finger into the soil (about two inches deep) to feel whether it is dry or wet. If it feels dry, then you should water your ZZ. Otherwise, wait for the soil to dry out before watering again.
• Alternatively, use a soil moisture meter if you want convenience and accuracy. This device monitors your soil’s moisture level to help you make an informed watering decision.
• Reduce your watering frequency during winter. Plants go dormant during this season and watering them too often might damage their roots.

2. Too much sunlight

ZZ plants enjoy warm and humid conditions because of their tropical origins. However, they are happier under indirect sunlight. They cannot tolerate the intense heat of full sunlight, and their leaves can easily burn. You will also notice the leaves curl in full sun, as they try to protect themselves from the harmful UV rays.

The solution:

• Move your ZZ plant away from areas that get direct sunlight, such as south-facing windows. East-facing windows are generally preferable since they provide medium, indirect sunlight without harming the leaves.
• You can also place your plant in shaded spots such as a covered patio to enjoy the filtered sunlight.
• Place a drape or curtain over your window to filter the incoming light if it is too harsh. 
• Use artificial grow lights if you cannot find a perfect spot for your ZZ, or when sunlight is not available. Grow lights give you more control over how much light you are giving your plant, without relying on the weather.

3. Cold temperatures

ZZ plants prefer temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. If exposed to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the water content of their leaves starts to freeze. So, if you notice your ZZ plant’s leaves curling in very cold weather, it is probably reacting to the temperature drop.

The solution:

• Add mulch over the plant’s soil. The organic materials act like an insulator to protect the plant’s roots from extreme cold (or heat).
• Protect your plants from cold drafts by placing them away from open windows or doors. 
• Limit your watering during the colder seasons. It is also preferable to water your plant in the morning so that it has the entire day to dry. Watering at night keeps the leaves and soil wet for longer, making the plant vulnerable to fungal diseases.
• Use a humidifier to add moisture to the air, especially during the winter season.

4. Pest infestation

Various pests can cause serious damage to your plant’s foliage. Mealybugs, aphids, and thrips, to name a few, feed on the sap of the leaves, stripping away the nutrients needed for plant growth. The plant’s leaves start to curl as it attempts to defend itself from the pests. If your plant’s leaves are curling and you suspect pests, watch out for other symptoms like holes on the leaves, sticky wax or brown spots on the leaves, and the presence of tiny bugs crawling on the foliage. These are sure signs that your ZZ plant is being assaulted by pests.

The solution:

• Spray the leaves with insecticidal soap to get rid of the bugs.
• Dilute neem oil with water to make a spray solution. Neem oil works great as a natural fungicide without harming your plant.
• You might also dilute alcohol with water and use the solution to wipe the leaves.
• Make sure to quarantine the affected plant to prevent the spread of pests and diseases to your healthy plants.

5. Rootbound issues

A rootbound state means that your ZZ plant has outgrown its container. 

ZZs have large underground rhizomes that store nutrients and water to support their growth. This can take a lot of space under the soil as the plant continues to grow and expand. When the pot becomes too small to house all the roots, the plant becomes rootbound and vulnerable to root damage and fungus. Eventually, it will also suffer from water and nutrient uptake issues, leading to problems such as leaf curling. Do not fret – you can correct this problem using the tips below.

The solution:

• Repot your plant once every two to three years. Make sure the new pot is slightly bigger than the previous one – preferably about two inches larger in diameter. 
• Choose a well-draining potting soil that incorporates perlite to improve soil aeration.
• Choose a pot or container with large drainage holes. 
• Pots are available in different materials. If you want the soil to dry faster, use a terracotta pot, since plastic containers tend to hold more moisture.
• Avoid repotting your plants during the winter season. Instead, do this in spring or summer to give your plant time to acclimatize to its new pot before it goes dormant.
• Prune off damaged leaves and stems while repotting, to encourage new growth.

Wrapping it up

Curling leaves is one of a plant’s natural defense mechanisms against stress. The leading cause is a lack of water, but other factors such as pests, a rootbound state, extreme temperatures, and too much sunlight are also possible contributors. Try to understand the specific issue so you can take the appropriate measures to bring your plant’s gorgeous leaves back to life.

Image: istockphoto.com / Bogdan Kurylo

Zamioculcas zamiifolias, better known as ZZ plants, are popular for being tough as nails – they can tolerate both low light conditions and periods of drought better than most houseplants. These hardy plants are also not fussy when it comes to the type of soil they grow in – in most cases, any potting soil mixed with perlite and coarse sand should suffice.

That said, most growers would like their ZZ plants to reach their full growing potential. We all love seeing our plants flourish, and to achieve this, you need an appropriate medium to boost your plant’s growth.

So, let us go over the must-have features you should consider when choosing the best soil for your ZZ plant.

Factors to consider when choosing soil

For proper growth, ZZ plants need nutrition from the soil. Unlike in their natural habitat, houseplants like ZZs are restricted to small containers, so you need to carefully select an appropriate potting mix that includes balanced nutrients for their health and survival. 

In general, ZZ plants prefer a nutrient-dense, porous potting soil mix – aeration is important to allow the roots to breathe. Any regular potting mix should be sufficient for a ZZ plant to stay healthy, but if you want your plants to really flourish, there are a number of soil mixes you can choose from to give your plant that extra boost. 

But first, you should understand the important factors at play when it comes to choosing a potting mix for ZZ plants. These are as follows:

1. Nutrient-rich soil

Plants get their nutrients from the soil, and the main nutrients needed to foster growth are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). These macro-nutrients are commonly known as NPK. Other micronutrients that ZZ plants need to maintain their vigor are copper, zinc, iron, manganese, boron, molybdenum, and nickel.

Plants, in their natural environment, get these nutrients from the decomposed organic matter in the soil. However, growing them away from their habitat limits their access to these nutrients, so if you want your ZZ plant to thrive, you should consider a medium that contains the same essential nutrients found in its natural habitat. For this reason, growing ZZ plants indoors requires the addition of fertilizer – be it organic or synthetic.

2. Well-draining soil

ZZ plants cannot tolerate compacted or clay-like soil, because it drains poorly. Like most plants, their roots are delicate and prone to rotting when left to sit in soggy, wet soil for extended periods. 

Roots naturally breathe oxygen through tiny pores. Oxygen is essential for a plant’s cellular respiration. In other words, just like humans and animals, plants depend on oxygen for survival.

For this reason, the soil must be well-draining to allow the roots to breathe. If the soil is too dense or compact, it will hold excess water around the roots, eventually drowning them. An oxygen-deprived plant will also become vulnerable to root rot and fungal diseases. 

3. Good aeration

Aeration reduces soil compaction and allows more oxygen to reach the roots. Hence, aerated soil is another essential for your ZZ plant’s vigorous growth. Do keep in mind, though, that the soil must also hold enough moisture and nutrients to meet the plant’s needs. 

What is the best soil mix for ZZ plants?

Fortunately, ZZ plants are not picky when it comes to their growing medium. However, we want our houseplants to grow beautifully and not just survive! Choosing the ideal soil mix, combined with proper care, will ensure that our ZZ plants flourish and grow happily for many years to come.

Here are some tips for choosing the best soil mix for your ZZ plant:

1. Choose a good-quality mix

First off, you need to consider a good quality soil mix that has the basic requirements – good aeration, well-draining, and nutrient-rich. Once you have found the perfect growing medium, stick with it as your plant grows. Be sure to replace the soil as needed, especially when transferring your plant to a new pot.

The following ingredients help create good drainage and aeration in your soil mix, while still holding enough nutrients and moisture for your ZZ plant to flourish:

• Light, well-aerated potting soil
• Coarse horticultural sand
• Pine bark fines
• Sphagnum peat moss
• Coco coir
• Perlite

You can follow this recipe to create the best-quality soil for your plant:

• Two parts all-purpose potting soil
• One part perlite, pink bark fines, or coco coir
• One part horticultural sand

2. Soil and cactus mix

Novice growers might wonder whether it is okay to use a cactus mix for their ZZ plants. The good news is that cactus and succulent mixes actually work well for ZZs and other houseplants. Cactus mix has good aeration and drainage qualities; it is made with limestone, sand, and perlite, making it porous yet moisture and nutrient absorbent.

If you want to use cactus mix for your ZZ plant, here is the recommended recipe:

• Three parts potting soil, such as Miracle Grow
• One part cactus mix
• About a handful of organic material or compost  

3. Soil and perlite mix

Perlite is a naturally-occurring siliceous rock with an extremely porous structure. When added to the soil mix, it helps improve the drainage capacity and aeration of the growing medium. Perlite also makes the soil light, yet provides good retention of moisture and nutrients. That is why gardeners find perlite mix a balanced medium that works well for most houseplants. 

To create a good perlite mix, follow this recipe:

• One part all-purpose potting soil
• Two parts perlite
• One part sphagnum peat moss

4. Pre-made soil blends

Of course, if you do not want the hassle of making your own soil mix, you can always go for pre-made products. These options offer the most convenience, being ready to use as needed. Some of the best pre-made soil mixes for ZZ plants are FoxFarm Ocean Forest Potting Soil and Espoma Organic Cactus Mix.

Do ZZ plants need cactus soil?

If you are looking for fast-draining soil, you might find cactus soil a great option. The only drawback of using this as your growing medium is that you risk the soil drying out a bit faster than your ZZ likes. Dehydration in ZZ plants causes leaf browning and drooping, both of which are undesirable and unhealthy traits.

To take advantage of its excellent drainage capability without dehydrating your plant, it is recommended to mix the cactus soil with a high-quality potting soil. This way, you can minimize the risk of root rot while ensuring that your ZZ plant receives enough moisture and nutrition.

Do ZZ plants grow well in acidic soil?

ZZ plants prefer a soil with pH range between 6.0 and 7.0, meaning they do better in a slightly acidic environment. However, too much acidity in the soil can be toxic and cause issues with nutrient uptake. As a result, your plant will struggle with slow growth and leaf burn similar to that caused by overfertilization.

When to repot your ZZ plant

While repotting can cause shock in your ZZ plant, this process is sometimes necessary for several reasons. You need to transfer your plant to a new pot and soil if you notice any of these signs:

• Roots starting to grow out of the pot’s drainage holes
• Browning and wilting leaves
• Stunted growth
• Pot starting to break due to expansion of the roots

Remember that you should only repot your ZZ plant during spring and summer. Avoid repotting it during its dormant season, as this can cause irreversible damage to the root system.

To maintain your plant’s vigor, consider repotting it every two to three years.

Choosing the right pots for a ZZ plant

ZZ plants are popular for being low-maintenance and forgiving, so any pot with good drainage should work fine. Some common pot materials include terracotta, clay, concrete, plastic, fiber, metal, and even coir. 

While porous pots like terracotta and coir can easily wick moisture from the soil, materials like plastic will retain more moisture inside the pot. Keep this in mind when choosing a pot that best suits your requirements.

Also remember that ZZ plants do not like to be root-bound, so choose a pot that is slightly larger than your plant – the pot wall should be approximately an inch away from the root ball. When the roots have grown significantly larger, you can repot your plant into the next pot size, about two inches larger than the previous one. However, do not choose a pot or container that is overly large, as the extra space inside it will retain extra water, thus increasing the plant’s risk of root rot and fungal issues.

Conclusion

Knowing the right soil conditions for your ZZ plant will encourage faster and healthier growth of its foliage, as well as making your plant less vulnerable to certain pests and plant diseases. With the right care and soil recipe, you can easily keep your ZZ looking its best for years to come!

Image: istockphoto.com / Bilal photos

Alocasia Black Velvet, or Alocasia reginula, is a truly unique houseplant to add to your living space. It has thick, black, heart-shaped leaves with a velvety texture, giving it an elegant appearance. No wonder so many growers covet these plants!

Unfortunately, your Alocasia may not look as stunning as it should if its leaves start to curl. The most common causes of this undesirable appearance all come down to inappropriate care, including overwatering, incorrect lighting conditions, over-fertilizing, and pest infestations.

As soon as you notice the leaves curling on your Alocasia Black Velvet, the first thing you should do is determine the underlying issue. This is the only way you will be able to implement the right solution to help your plant regain its health.

Why are my Alocasia Black Velvet’s leaves curling?

1. Underwatering

Inconsistent watering is the most likely reason your Alocasia Black Velvet’s leaves are curling. Tropical plants like Alocasia require damp soil to keep their leaves hydrated and maintain their turgor. If you skip watering your plant for too long, its leaves and stems will turn pale, dry, and curly as they dehydrate, which is not healthy.

2. Root rot

Roots are the lifeline of every plant. Alocasias need healthy roots to absorb water, soil nutrients, and oxygen for their survival. Roots also anchor and support plants so they can remain upright.  

One common mistake among novice gardeners is overwatering their Alocasia. While tropical plants love soil with sufficient moisture content, too much water can lead to irreversible damage to the root system. Root rot can weaken the plant and make it vulnerable to diseases; a plant with root rot may also show signs such as stunted growth, lack of vigor, wilting, leaf discolorations, and leaf curling. 

Although usually caused by overwatering, root rot might also result from the use of pots with poor drainage, or and soil that is too dense or compact. These factors all contribute to too much water retention in the soil, which cuts the oxygen supply to the roots. Oxygen-starved roots begin to decay and the rot will spread from there to the other, healthier roots. That is why, if you lift the affected plant from its pot, you will see mushy and dark roots that give off a foul odor. Root rot can also be an attractive breeding ground for fungus, which will further exacerbate the problem.

3. Potassium deficiency

Potassium-deficient Alocasia plants can be easily distinguished by the curling of their lower, older leaves. The growth of younger leaves is also somewhat limited, and they usually appear with smaller leaf blades. You will also notice brown scorches and yellow stains between the margins of the leaves, and possibly defoliation. If you notice your Alocasia displaying these symptoms, consider investigating its nutrient uptake. The culprit might be damaged roots, or you are simply not fertilizing your plant enough. 

4. Overfertilization

Most newbie growers tend to feed their plants more than they need, in the hope that this will make their Alocasias grow bigger and healthier. However, too much is often a bad idea – and this goes for plants, too. 

The advantage of using fertilizer is that you can provide your plants with just the right balance of macro- and micronutrients. Indoor plants like Alocasias are restricted to the soil inside their containers, unlike in their natural habitat where they would receive unlimited organic fertilizer to maintain their vigor. Thus, the addition of fertilizer can definitely help your Alocasia grow to its full potential.

However, these tropical plants are not heavy feeders, and too much fertilizer can accumulate in the soil and burn their roots. When this happens, the roots can no longer do their job of absorbing nutrients and supporting the plant, which results in droopy, curling leaves.

5. Low humidity

Alocasias thrive in areas with high levels of humidity and temperatures between 68 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit. If you live in an area with cold winters or place your Alocasia in a spot that gets fluctuating temperatures, it will likely struggle with temperature stress. Curling leaves is just one of the common signs that your plant has been exposed to dry air or unfavorable temperature. You might also notice its leaves developing brown tips and becoming droopy.

6. Exposure to direct sunlight

In their natural environment, Alocasias thrive under trees or other taller plants where they get indirect sunlight. Sunlight is extremely important to facilitate photosynthesis and maintain the plants’ vibrant green foliage, and scattered sunlight also ensures that the leaves are not burned by the extreme heat of the sun.

If you do not understand the sunlight requirements of your indoor plants, you may end up exposing them to full sunlight, in the mistaken belief that this will make their leaves greener and healthier. For Alocasias, this is not the case. In reality, the UV rays from the sun can harm the plant, and its leaves will curl as it tries to protect itself from the heat. 

Just like underwatering, too much heat can have a drying effect on the plant’s foliage, so you might also notice its leaves looking scorched or developing brown spots due to dehydration.

7. Pest infestations

All plants are vulnerable to pests. These tiny, sap-sucking creatures can cause irreversible damage to leaves and stems as they take over your beloved plants. A sad-looking Alocasia with curling leaves might be showing early signs of a pest infestation. Without proper intervention, the nuisance could soon cause other visible damages such as holes in the leaves, discolorations, stunted growth, sticky brown spots on the leaves, and defoliation. A severely infested plant will eventually become deprived of nutrients and die.

How to fix and prevent Alocasia leaves from curling

1. Maintain a proper watering schedule

Alocasias are happiest when watered roughly once a week, although you might need to adjust the frequency depending on the season. If it is very hot and the soil dries too quickly, you will have to water your plant more frequently.

The best way to determine your plant’s moisture needs is to use a soil moisture meter like the XLUX. The best thing about this device is that it will take care of all the monitoring for you. If the reading says your soil is too dry, then it is time to give your Alocasia a drink. If the reading displays a wet soil value, you can withhold watering until the soil becomes drier.

You can also use the finger method to know when your plant needs watering, although this manual method is a little less accurate than the moisture meter. Simply insert your finger about two inches deep into the soil to feel if it is wet or dry. Be careful not to go too deep to avoid disturbing the roots.

To prevent standing water collecting around the roots, only use pots with drainage holes and choose an airy soil mix. You can also add pumice or perlite to improve soil aeration and allow more space for the roots to grow. 

Lastly, never overwater your plants. Alocasias love moisture, but they will not tolerate waterlogged soil. As soon as you see excess water flowing out from the pot’s drainage holes, it is your cue to stop watering. Also do not forget to empty the saucer after watering your plant.

2. Eradicate any pest infestations

Certain insects are naturally attracted to plants because they live off the nutrients in the plant’s juices, or sap. While they feed on this sap, however, they also compromise the health of your Alocasia. To get rid of the pests and prevent further damage, try these tips:

• Make it a habit to check the undersides of the plant’s leaves for webs. As soon as you spot one, wipe it away with cotton wool soaked in soapy water.
• Pests are attracted to dusty leaves, so make sure to wipe the leaves of your Alocasia from time to time to get rid of dust. Use a damp cloth to clean the leaves. Alternatively, give your plant a good, shower especially during summer, to maintain its shiny, dark-green leaves.
• As soon as you suspect an infestation, it is best to use products to kill the bugs and their eggs immediately. Insecticidal soaps are one of the most effective and cheapest solutions to get rid of almost any kind of plant pests. You can soak the affected leaves in the solution and directly spray any bugs you see crawling on the leaves.
• Another natural pest killer is neem oil. Mix the oil with water and spray it on the leaves and stem of the plant once a week until all the pests are gone.

3. Use fertilizer to fix nutrient deficiencies

There are many types of fertilizer you can purchase to boost your plant’s health. For your Alocasia, it is best to use a water-soluble fertilizer such as potassium sulfate, potassium chloride, potassium nitrate, or monopotassium phosphate.

If you prefer to use organic fertilizers, you can try compost made from banana peels, seaweed, or comfrey liquid. Fertilize your Alocasia once every two weeks for the best results.

However, you should only apply fertilizer during the plant’s growing season. Do not use it during the dormant seasons or you risk harming its roots.

4. Protect your plant from extreme temperatures

As mentioned, Alocasias do better in areas with filtered or scattered sunlight. The right spot is usually near a window that has curtains to diffuse the sunlight. 

These are also cold-sensitive plants, so do not leave them exposed to cold drafts, especially during winter. If the air becomes too dry, try to raise the humidity by placing a tray filled with pebbles and water underneath, or nearby, the plant. You can also use a humidifier to maintain the right growing conditions for your plants, no matter what the season.

Wrapping it up

There are many possible reasons for curling leaves on an Alocasia Black Velvet. Thus, before you try to apply any fix, it is important to ensure that you understand the cause. This can vary from watering issues to incorrect use of fertilizer. Once you have identified the exact cause, you should be able to revive your plant by following the tips mentioned in this guide.

Remember to continue giving your plant the appropriate care once it has regained its health. Alocasias require a moderate level of care and are not quite as hardy as some other common houseplants. Provide yours with the right growing conditions and it will reward you with beautiful, healthy foliage you will enjoy for years!

Image: istockphoto.com / Firn

ZZ plants, or Zamiifolia zamioculcas, have a reputation for being tough – they can take almost any form of neglect and still survive. These hardy plants are loved for their glossy, dark green leaves that add vibrance to any interiorscape.

However, even the toughest plants have some basic growing requirements, and if your ZZ plant is becoming leggy, this is an indication that some of those requirements are not being met. Legginess, droopiness, and leaf discolorations are all signs that the plant is no longer able to tolerate its environmental conditions.

None of us wants a houseplant that looks sad and sickly, and the most frustrating part is that it can be challenging to determine exactly why your ZZ plant has become leggy. But fear not – if you are looking for answers and solutions, this guide is for you! 

Why is my ZZ plant leggy?

1. Lack of sunlight

The most common cause of a leggy ZZ plant is poor light conditions. Like most houseplants, ZZs need enough filtered light from the sun to carry out photosynthesis in order to stay healthy. If your plant is not getting enough sunlight, it will start to stretch in the direction of the closest available light source – this is called etiolation and is the plant’s survival tactic! Over time, its stems will grow longer and softer – or leggy – making them look rather unattractive.

Aside from the long and skinny stems, you will also notice the leaves turning pale or yellow. There will probably also be wider gaps between the leaves.

2. Watering issues

We are all probably aware of the damaging effects of overwatering our plants! Too much water can seriously damage the roots, and without the healthy roots, your plant cannot absorb enough nutrients to keep itself upright, causing it to develop a leggy or droopy appearance.

Underwatering can have negative effects, too. Even though ZZs are naturally tough plants that can survive periods of neglect, they certainly will not maintain their lush leaves and firm stems if left to dry out. The lack of water discourages new growth, and may cause your plant to look leggy and bare with fewer leaves. 

3. Too much fertilizer

Overfertilization can damage a plant’s root system and prevent new growth. Just like overwatering, root problems caused by too much fertilizer can lead to nutrient uptake issues. This can eventually weaken the plant’s stems and make them look droopy. Additionally, ZZ plants that do not have access to macro- and micronutrients will be more vulnerable to certain diseases.

4. Root damage after repotting

If your houseplant suddenly starts leaning after repotting it, it may be due to root damage. Transplant shock is common in houseplants, which is why it is important to limit the frequency of repotting your plants to prevent this issue. However, there are times when repotting is necessary, so the best thing you can do is protect the roots from possible damage during the process.

Repotted ZZs also need a few days to adjust to their new containers and soil. But do not worry – they are very adaptable and forgiving. Give your plant the love and care it deserves and it will bounce back on its own.

5. Temperature stress

ZZ plants need a temperature between 55 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit for steady growth. Any temperature outside that comfort zone can lead to problems like yellowed leaves and a droopy appearance.

If the temperature is too cold, the leaves can become frozen and incur irreversible damage. If the temperature is too hot, your plant’s transpiration rate will increase and cause the leaves to dry or burn. 

Even cold drafts can be problematic for your ZZ plant. If you keep it near an air conditioning vent, a heating device, or an open window, it will likely struggle from the temperature fluctuations. Keep in mind that most houseplants are sensitive to temperature changes, and exposure to undesirable conditions will likely cause damaged foliage and stunted growth. 

How to fix your leggy ZZ plant

The first step in fixing a leggy ZZ plant is to correct your care regimen. Although they are known for being notoriously tolerant of neglect, it does not mean your ZZ plant is indestructible. So, if you want to maintain your plant’s glossy leaves and upright posture, follow the tips listed below:

1. Allow more light

We are already aware that low light conditions can cause irregular growth and leginess in ZZ plants. That said, too much sunlight can burn your plant’s leaves, causing severe damage. Both these situations are undesirable, so this is what you need to do:

Place your ZZ plant in a spot with access to indirect sunlight, such as near a windowsill. You might also need to move or rotate your plant from time to time so that all sides of it get some time in the light. Keep in mind that ZZs naturally bend or stretch their stems in the direction of the nearest light source, so if you do not rotate the plant, you will see unbalanced growth of the stems – one side might look longer and leggy while the other side has regular growth.

Your last resort would be to use artificial grow lights if you cannot find a perfect spot with filtered sunlight for your plant. The advantage of artificial light is that you have control over the light’s intensity and you can place it anywhere you like. Your plant will also be less dependent on the weather, especially during winter when there are fewer daylight hours.

2. Keep a proper watering schedule

Most ZZ plants do well when watered once or twice a week. However, their moisture needs will vary depending on the season and local humidity levels.

ZZ plants are excellent at regulating their water needs – you can safely assume that your plant does not need watering unless the top two inches of its soil have dried out. To check this, carefully insert your finger into the first two inches of soil to determine the moisture level. If it feels wet, wait for the soil to completely dry before watering your plant again.

It is also important to consider the type of soil and the container to use for your ZZ. Opt for airy soil, as dense or compacted soil tends to hold more water for longer periods. Pots or containers should also have drainage holes at the bottom to let the excess water flow out freely. This will ensure that the water saturates all of the soil without drowning the roots.

3. Do not forget to fertilize

ZZ plants require a bit of fertilizer for faster growth and stronger stems and leaves. Keep in mind that they are slow growers, so they should be perfectly fine with the minimum dosage.

It is recommended to use a fertilizer with a 5-5-5 ratio, or a diluted one with a 10-10-10 ratio. Feed your plants at the start of the growing season, followed by another dose after two months. Avoid fertilizing your ZZs during their dormant seasons, as this can cause root damage.

Liquid fertilizers typically work best for indoor plants like ZZs. You might also try the slow-release versions, but make sure to apply these only once a year. However, it is not good to use solid fertilizers for indoor plants.

Lastly, never over-fertilize your plants! As mentioned before, too much fertilizer can have ill effects on the roots and result in a droopy or sick-looking plant.

4. Repot, split, or prune when needed

Repotting, splitting, or pruning your ZZ is sometimes necessary if you notice irreversible damage to some parts of the plant.

If your ZZ plant is growing stems with little leaves, trim off these stems to encourage new growth and stronger stems. Additionally, branches and stems that have been damaged and leggy for long periods are less likely to recover, so it is best to remove them to improve your plant’s appearance. Make sure to use sterilized pruning shears or scissors when you do this.

If overwatering is the cause of your plant’s leggy appearance, then repotting it in a fresh, high-quality soil mix can help to correct the problem. If it has more than five stems, you can split the plant and transfer each division to a new pot. Individual rhizomes can grow their own stems and be split to produce new plants. 

5. Be mindful of drafts and temperature fluctuations

It is important that you keep your ZZ plant in an environment where the temperature and humidity are optimal for healthy growth. Although there is nothing much you can do about temperature fluctuations, there are some tips you can follow to protect your plant from temperature stress.

First, make sure to place your plants away from an open exterior window or door during the winter season to prevent cold drafts from damaging it. You should also keep it away from air conditioning vents, fireplaces, heating vents, radiators, burning stoves, and large appliances. 

Barriers like blinds or curtains work well to protect your plant from hot or cold drafts. Additionally, investing in a humidifier will ensure consistent humidity and a comfortable environment for your ZZ plant. You will find this device very helpful during the cold seasons when the air tends to be drier than in the spring and summer.

6. Choose the right pot 

Pots with drainage holes are a basic requirement for growing houseplants like ZZs. Avoid containers that do not have adequate drainage, as they will retain too much water in the soil and this can cause root rot. 

The size of the pot matters, too. If the container is too small, it will not allow enough space for new roots to grow. Being constrained in a small space can hinder plant growth and cause your ZZ to look limp. If the pot is too big, on the other hand, you risk your plant developing root rot and fungal diseases since it will take longer for that volume of soil to dry out after watering.

To avoid such problems, it is recommended that you use a small-sized pot (four to six inches) for smaller ZZ plants, and transfer them to a medium-sized pot (seven to 10 inches) after a couple of years of growth. If your plant is big and does not fit a small or medium pot, then consider a bigger pot size (above 10 inches).

Conclusion

Worried about your ZZ plant becoming leggy? You probably just need to correct the amount of light it is receiving. ZZ plants do not do well in low light conditions.

While the prime cause of legginess is a lack of sunlight, your plant might take on a similar, leaning or droopy appearance if you overwatered it, which can cause irreversible damage to the roots. Root rot is a serious problem and a common plant killer, and requires immediate action.

Other possible factors might also cause your plant to appear sick or droopy, ranging from inappropriate fertilizer application to temperature and transplant shock. Whatever the reason, it is extremely important to understand these issues so that you know how to address them promptly. Once you have identified the problem, you can apply the appropriate solution to regain your plant’s vibrant appearance.

Image: istockphoto.com / ribeiroantonio

Looking for a perfect indoor plant that is easy to care for? Then the ZZ plant might be your best option!

Also known as Zamioculcas zamiifolia, this amazing houseplant boasts glossy, dark green foliage that makes most growers fall in love. It is also said that ZZs are natural air purifiers that can keep your indoor air quality cleaner and fresher. No wonder they have been among the most popular houseplants for decades!

ZZs are considered tough plants because of their ability to tolerate low light conditions and neglect. However, they do still need to have their basic needs met, otherwise they will start to show signs of stress. A ZZ plant falling over is a pretty clear sign that something has gone wrong – and nobody wants a droopy or sad-looking plant!

This guide will tell you all the possible reasons your ZZ plant is falling over, as well as how to fix the problem.  

Common causes of ZZ plant falling over

1. Insufficient or too much watering

One common mistake that many newbie plant owners make is overwatering. The ZZ plant is one of those hardy indoor plants that do not require frequent watering – although it is not a succulent, it is drought tolerant. Hence, it will not die easily if you forget to water it for a couple of days. However, because it does not look like a succulent, it is easy to assume that it needs the same water as any other houseplant, so novice growers might water them a bit too frequently.

If you overwater your ZZ, you can eventually drown it. And, if it starts to fall over, your first reaction might be to give it more water on the assumption that it is thirsty, but this may actually make the problem worse.

Oversaturating the soil will kill the roots and they will turn dark and mushy. This condition is called root rot, and is one of the prime reasons that ZZ plants become weak and vulnerable to diseases. Overwatered plants fall over because they are no longer receiving nutrients from the soil, because the damaged roots cannot absorb them properly. Without prompt action, your beautiful plant could die.

So, what about skipping water for long periods? Is that healthier for ZZ plants?

As mentioned, ZZ plants can survive without being watered for fairly long periods compared with other houseplants. That is why a lot of forgetful growers love this plant! But it does not mean that watering your ZZ plant too sparingly will not cause some problems.

Underwatering is less serious than overwatering because it is easier to revive a dehydrated plant than to save one with dead roots. However, a dehydrated ZZ plant does not look good – its leaves become pale or crispy brown and the plant will start to droop and lean over as it dries out more. Additionally, if you leave your plant dehydrated for too long, it will eventually perish.

2. Exposure to full sunlight

Plants need sunlight in order to perform photosynthesis. This process helps them maintain their vibrant foliage and grow properly. Without the sunlight, it is impossible for plants to survive.

You might be wondering, then, why your ZZ plant is falling over despite being under the full sunlight.

Contrary to what you might think, exposure to full sunlight can be harmful to many houseplants, including your ZZ. That is because the sun’s heat can cause excessive transpiration, which leads to water loss. Water is essential to maintain a plant’s turgor pressure so they can stand firmly and their leaves do not droop or curl. With full exposure to sunlight, your ZZ plant may lose too much moisture too fast, resulting in burnt leaves and leaning over.

3. Poor lighting conditions

If too much sunlight is bad for ZZ plants, then what about placing them under lower light levels?

Unfortunately, ZZ plants can also suffer in poor low conditions. These conditions will make it impossible for your plant to carry out processes like photosynthesis, and you will know this when it starts falling over.

4. Too much fertilizer

Applying too much fertilizer is harmful for your plants! Excess fertilizer will not help your plant grow better, but instead accumulates in the soil in the form of salts. If the salt content in the soil is too high, the moisture content will be pulled away from the plant’s roots. This process is called reverse osmosis.

Salt buildup causes root burn, and without healthy roots, your ZZ plant will not be able to absorb sufficient water and nutrients to keep it upright. Hence, overfertilization can lead to dehydration, making your plant look sad and, eventually, fall over.

Other visible signs of too much fertilizer are:

• Vulnerability to plant diseases
• Stunted growth
• Presence of crusty substances on top of the soil
• Wilting and yellowing of the lower leaves
• Browning of the leaf tips and edges
• Defoliation
• Blackened or browned roots

5. Stress from extreme temperatures

ZZ plants thrive in temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything outside this range can make your plant look sickly. One way to tell that your plant is struggling from temperature stress is if it starts to fall over and the leaves start curling up.

If the temperature drops below 45 degrees Fahrenheit, it can disrupt your plant’s nutrient uptake. Cold temperatures can freeze the water in the leaves and damage the plant’s cells. If you do not intervene quickly, the damage can spread to the roots and kill your plant.

Temperatures higher than 75 degrees Fahrenheit, on the other hand, can be too hot for your ZZ plant. Similar to full sunlight exposure, the extreme heat can increase the plant’s transpiration rate and make it limp as it loses its moisture content. 

6. Transplant shock from repotting

Plants are not designed to be moved from one area to another. So, when you repot your ZZ plant, it is bound to experience stress or shock. It might show signs such as wilting, branches dying, or falling over. 

This is why repotting should only be done once every two to three years, in order to minimize this stress. It is also recommended to transplant your ZZ during its growing season, rather than during winter. 

However, there are times when repotting is the only option to save your plant. For example, an overwatered or overfertilized ZZ plant can be revived by planting it in new, fresh soil. Plants that have struggled with fungal diseases might also be revived by changing their soil and container altogether.

Just keep in mind that plants’ roots are very sensitive to injury. Hence, great care must be taken while transplanting them, to prevent any possible root damage.

If your ZZ plant is falling over after being repotted, despite your careful efforts, it could just be adjusting to its new container. Be patient and give it the proper care it needs, and it should bounce back to health in a few days.

7. Stem trauma or injuries

Mechanical injuries caused by accidents or deliberate physical actions can sometimes be the culprit if your ZZ plant is falling over. Some of its parts might be damaged or punctured after falling from a windowsill or shelf, or perhaps you have pets or children at home that accidentally pushed your plant and caused some damage.

Unfortunately, damaged leaves and stems cannot be recovered. The best way to fix the situation is to trim off the damaged parts using sterilized shears or scissors. If the pot is cracked or damaged, you might also need to repot it in a new container.

How to fix a ZZ plant falling over

We all want our plants to thrive and maintain their beautiful aesthetic. And, although they are tough, ZZ plants still require a degree of care and attention to stay healthy.

So, if you notice your plant falling over, follow these simple tips to revive it as soon as possible:

1. Establish a proper watering routine

Unfortunately, there is no golden rule as to how often you need to water your ZZ plants. Environmental temperatures and humidity levels can vary, and these factors can affect your plant’s moisture needs.

However, there is a simple method that can help you determine the best time to water your plant. This is the soil finger test. All you have to do is to feel whether the soil is wet or dry by pushing your finger into the soil up to about an inch deep. If the soil feels moist, there is no need to water your plant. If it feels dry, then it is time to give your ZZ plant a drink.

Another method is to use a soil moisture meter like the XLUX. This low-cost sensor allows you to monitor the water content around your plant’s root zone accurately, enabling informed watering decisions and reducing water stress.

2. Maintain appropriate lighting conditions

As mentioned before, ZZ plants thrive in areas where they can receive indirect sunlight. If you want to keep your plant’s attractive foliage looking its best, you need to make sure it receives enough sunlight without burning it.

Exposing your plant to light shade will help maintain its vital cellular functions without it getting burned by excess heat. If you can, place it near a window that does not face south, or hang a curtain over the window to diffuse the intensity of the light. If you cannot expose the plant to indirect sunlight, there is also the option of an artificial grow light.  

3. Keep your fertilizer applications in check

Unlike in their natural habitat where there is a constant flow of nutrients, indoor ZZ plants will need the occasional boost to top up their essential nutrients. Fertilizer contains the macro and micro ingredients needed to maintain your plant’s healthy stems, leaves, and roots.

However, as mentioned before, too much fertilizer can damage your plant, so before you get too keen with your applications, make sure you know the appropriate N-P-K ratio for your ZZ plant. You have probably seen these letters before, on the labels of fertilizer packaging – they stand for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. So, for example, if you see the numbers 10-10-10, it simply means 10% nitrogen, 10% phosphorus, and 10% potassium.

In the case of ZZ plants, it is best to use a diluted fertilizer with a 10-10-10 or 20-20-20 ratio. Feed your plant once a month or once every two months during its growing seasons, but be aware that most houseplants go dormant during winter, so they will not absorb nutrients at a very rapid rate during that time. Thus, avoid fertilizing during the winter season or risk root burn in your ZZ. 

4. Protect your plant from extreme temperatures

Keeping your ZZ plant within its temperature comfort zone is important for its growth. If you keep it near a window with very bright sunlight, consider hanging a sheer curtain to prevent heat stress, or move it slightly to avoid the direct sunlight. 

It is also recommended to water your plant early in the morning so that it has enough time for its leaves and soil to dry before the cold night temperatures set it. Watering in the morning, especially during the summer, will also make sure that the roots are amply hydrated, thus preventing heat stress. Do not water your plant at night; this will leave the leaves wet for too long, and damp leaves can make your plant vulnerable to fungal diseases.

Other useful tricks to protect your plants from extreme temperatures include:

• Adding mulch to insulate the roots from extreme heat and cold
• Using a shade cloth or frost blankets
• Keeping the right humidity levels in your growing space
• Placing your plants near a shade structure or other tall plants

5. Make sure the roots are healthy

Roots are the lifeline of your ZZ plant – they absorb the nutrients, water, and oxygen necessary to keep the plant alive and healthy. They also keep it upright and prevent it from going limp or falling over. Hence, it is extremely important to keep your plant’s root system healthy.

Aside from ensuring the right soil conditions, make sure to monitor the roots if your plant shows any signs of weakness such as wilting or falling over. Carefully lift the plant from its pot and check the color of the roots. If they are firm and white, they are healthy. If they are dark, mushy, and smell bad, this is a sign of dead and rotting roots.

To save your ZZ if it has root rot, first carefully trim off the decomposed roots using sterilized pruning shears. Then, repot your plant in fresh, well-draining soil, making sure that the new container has drainage holes to prevent the accumulation of excess water. After repotting the plant, water it so that the soil is damp but not too wet. Wait for the soil to dry out before the next watering.

Wrapping it up

A ZZ plant falling over is a clear sign of a problem! As its keeper, it is up to you to determine the cause of the problem and address it right away to save your beloved plant. All of the most common causes are discussed in this guide, so if you follow the advice mentioned above, you should be able to revive your ZZ plant and prevent any future problems!

Image: istockphoto.com / Maya23K

Planning to add an aromatic herb to your kitchen or garden? Then you surely cannot omit the ever-popular culinary herb that is basil!

Botanically known as Ocimum basilicum, the basil plant is a lush green herb that belongs to the mint family. For many years it has been well-known for its versatility and flavor, making it a perfect addition to almost any kind of dish.

Since basil is an herbaceous plant, it needs to be watered correctly to stay firm and upright. Herb plants like basil do not have a skeletal framework to keep themselves upright and rigid, which leaves them susceptible to wilting and even death due to underwatering. Proper watering and sufficient sunlight are non-negotiables for your basil plant, so you need to consider these requirements to successfully grow it in your kitchen or your garden.

How often should you water your basil plant?

There are many varieties of basil, but when it comes to their watering requirement s they are all alike. To keep your basil growing lush and flavorful leaves, you have to make sure that you are meeting its basic growing requirements. In general, it will need a well-draining potting mix, at least six hours of sunlight each day, and regular watering to stay healthy and happy.

As a rule of thumb, a fully established basil plant needs about one to one and a half inches of water per week in order to thrive. This means that you will need a little over half a gallon of water every week for plants grown in a regular 10-inch diameter pot. 

Most gardening enthusiasts recommend the following watering frequency for basil:

• For basil planted outside in a pot, water every one to two days
• For basil planted outside in the garden, water every three to four days
• For basil grown indoors in a pot, water every four to five days
• For basil seedlings, water every one to two days

Keep in mind that the suggestions above are just guidelines. Your plant’s watering needs may vary depending on several other factors, such as your location and the weather where you live. Unfortunately, there is no universal watering formula for every plant. Regular monitoring and being able to gauge when your plant needs watering will go a long way in keeping those green leaves in consistent production.

How to water a basil plant

Whatever variety of basil you have in your kitchen or garden, you need to remember one basic watering rule: Always water your plant from the bottom, not from the top. The reason for this is simple. Watering from the top will wet the leaves, which creates an ideal environment for fungal diseases. You do not want this to happen.

Houseplants, in general, can become susceptible to fungal growth due to incorrect watering. There are several types of fungi that thrive in soil and can infect seedlings or plants potted in the affected soil. These pathogens can be further aggravated by wet conditions as a result of overwatering, misting the leaves, or using a potting mix with poor drainage.

Downy mildew is one common disease in basil plants that is aggravated by improper watering. Affected plants often show symptoms like yellowing leaves, wilting, greyish spots underneath the leaves, and leaf drop. The common remedy for plants with this disease is to follow the correct watering regimen, use a fast-draining potting mix, and provide sufficient sunlight for the plant.

Unfortunately, plants that are severely damaged due to incorrect watering can be almost impossible to revive. You may need to start all over again and hopefully learn from your mistakes.

Watering your basil – Different planting scenarios

It can be challenging to determine the correct amount of water for your basil due to the various possible growing conditions. Although basil is quite easy to grow, especially in warm environments, it can be quite demanding and specific when it comes to watering. This is where most gardeners become frustrated and fail.

The planting scenarios below should serve as a guide to help you determine the right amount of water for your basil.

1. Basil seedlings

The seedling stage is a crucial time for your basil plant. One wrong move, especially with watering, can wipe out all your hard work in an instant. 

To successfully cultivate basil seeds, you need to plant them in the correct medium. A high-quality, loamy soil combined with compost should be enough to jumpstart germination. 

If you are using a plug tray to germinate your seeds, it is recommended to water the  seedlings from the bottom by filling the underneath of the tray with water. This will allow the potting mix in the tray to slowly absorb the water and stay moist. Moreover, this watering technique will prevent the seeds from floating off. Keep in mind that at this stage, your plants are still developing tiny roots that cannot yet tolerate a large amount of water. 

Using a small pot for the basil seeds also works fine, as long as you keep the soil moist but not flooded with water. To keep the soil damp, fill a tray with some water and let the small pot of seedlings soak it up. When the soil is moist enough, remove the pot from the water. Remember that seedlings need consistently moist soil, but too much water can kill them.

Once your seeds have started to grow firm roots, you can start watering the seedlings every second day until they are ready to be transplanted into a bigger pot.

2. Basil plant potted indoors

If you have decided to grow your basil indoors – let’s say in your kitchen – then it may need less watering than an outdoor plant. The climate inside your home is more stable than the temperatures outside, so it is easier to maintain the right moisture level for your plant.

You will probably only need to water your indoor basil every four to five days to keep it healthy. Do not forget to drain any excess water from the pot. You can use a plant saucer to catch the excess water once your plant is fully soaked.

3. Basil in outdoor containers

Growing your basil in a pot outdoors can be a little challenging and will need frequent monitoring. The main reason is that outdoor temperatures may vary and you will need to adjust your watering routine based on the current weather conditions. In this case, you will probably need to water your basil every one to two days during the growing season.

The frequency of watering may also depend on the type of pot you use. Clay pots, for example, are made of porous materials and can therefore draw away moisture very fast. Plastic pots, on the other hand, retain moisture for a longer time. Knowing this, you should be able to approximate the right time to water your plants.

Another technique commonly used to ascertain when to water is to check the top one or two inches of the plant’s soil. If it is very dry, it is time to water. 

Lastly, make sure that the potting mix is well-draining to prevent water from accumulating at the bottom of the pot.

4. Basil planted in the garden

Basil planted in the ground can be watered every three to four days, but you can skip the rainy days. Unlike potting mixes, typical garden soils are good at retaining moisture due to the abundance of organic matter and clay they contain. If your soil is sandy, however, you may need to increase your frequency of watering a little bit. Adding mulch to sandy soil can also help keep it moist for longer periods.

How to know if basil is underwatered or overwatered

A healthy basil plant supports a handful of glossy green leaves with the tips pointing downward, creating a droopy appearance. It has firm stems and releases a minty fragrance when rubbed. Any other appearance should be cause for concern.

For example, an overwatered basil usually becomes wilted. You will start to notice leaves turning yellow and dropping off. The leaves may also start producing blisters or spots, while the soil may be partly covered with algae. 

An underwatered basil plant, on the other hand, produces dry, brittle leaves. Instead of lush greens, you will see pale or dull leaves due to the lack of moisture. As the soil continues to dry, the plant will eventually turn brown or yellow and die.

Watering tips to keep your basil upright

Keeping your basil hydrated ensures a consistent supply of fresh herbs for your kitchen. Follow these additional tips to enjoy your basil plant for longer:

1. Monitor your plant’s condition regularly

Check the plant’s soil condition regularly. This will help you catch any early signs of wilting or leaf problems so that you can adjust your watering routine accordingly. Keep in mind that the soil should be slightly moist all the time to keep the basil healthy.

2. Water the basil early if grown outdoors

Watering early in the morning will keep the soil moist throughout the day as the sun passes over it.

3. Check the bottom soil

The appearance of the top soil in the pot can sometimes be deceiving. It could be dry, while deep down the soil is soaking wet. Or, the top soil could be moist while down below the roots are dry. This is why checking the soil condition with your eyes is not always enough. You can use a moisture sensor to monitor the soil, or insert your finger deep into the soil to check the moisture levels.

4. Allow excess water to drain

The best way to water your potted basil is to fill the container with sufficient water and let it drain properly. For indoor plants, use a plant saucer to catch the remaining water. Make sure that there is no standing water to avoid damaging the roots.

5. Adjust your watering frequency as the plant grows

As the plant continues to flourish, you may need to increase your watering frequency as well. Consider repotting the plant if the roots are starting to protrude from the pot’s drainage holes.

6. Do not forget to prune

Pruning and pinching your basil plant regularly prevents flowering and doubles the growth of the leaves. Do not worry if you trim off the flowers; you will not be needing them, anyway. Trimming will also keep the stems stronger for optimal growth. 

Conclusion

The correct watering of your basil plant will reward you with a full head of tasty leaves for your daily cuisine. Inappropriate watering, on the other hand, can cause troubles such as wilting, yellowing leaves, and fungal diseases.

Remember that basil needs consistently damp soil, as well as the warmth of the sun to flourish. Prune it regularly and water it well to ensure that you have a constant supply of fresh herbs.

Image: istockphoto.com / Robertobinetti70

One of the greatest perks of owning a Chinese evergreen is its low-maintenance profile. You get to enjoy the plant’s gorgeous, variegated foliage that adds a pop of life to your living space, while not having to give it too much time or attention. Its leaves come with unique patterns of green, gray, and cream that are attractive and relaxing to the eyes. No wonder this is one of the most popular indoor plants among growers!

If you are keeping a Chinese evergreen for the first time, you might be frustrated to see its leaves curling at some point. This is a common and almost inevitable problem among growers, because environmental conditions will vary and, in many cases, are not within our control. Additionally, if you do not follow the minimal care requirements to maintain your plant’s health, it will eventually deteriorate and die.

So, what makes the leaves curl on your Chinese evergreen, and what are the solutions? Hopefully this guide will give you some insights, so read on!

Chinese evergreen leaves curling – Causes and solutions

1. Underwatering or overwatering

Chinese evergreen leaves typically curl up when the plant is not receiving enough water, but too much water can have detrimental effects, too. The ideal is to keep the soil moist, but not too wet.

One common mistake among growers is to automatically give their plants more water as soon as they see the leaves yellowing and curling. This is a dangerous assumption – if you keep watering your Chinese evergreen without understanding the underlying issue, you may be bringing your plant closer to death, rather than saving it. As you might already know, standing water can kill a plant’s roots because it blocks them from absorbing oxygen. So, if you notice your plant developing curly, yellow or brown leaves, you might need to check its roots for rot before proceeding.

To prevent overwatering, wait for the topsoil to dry out completely before giving your plant a drink, and remember that less is more. That said, do not leave the soil too dry either, as this can also damage the roots and dehydrate your plant.

One simple tip to help you know when to water is to check the soil using the finger method. Insert your finger about an inch or two into the soil to feel whether it is dry or wet. Dry soil is your cue that your plant needs water. If the soil feels wet, avoid watering until it dries out a bit more. You can also use an XLUX Soil Moisture Meter to do the soil tests automatically for you.

Another tip to help prevent waterlogged soil and root rot is to use a pot with enough drainage holes. This will ensure that excess water does not pool at the base of your pot after you have watered your plant. You should also use a well-draining soil mix to prevent standing water so that the roots can breathe and function normally. Try mixing one part perlite with three parts Miracle Gro potting mix to give your plant a nice, airy soil mix.

2. Exposure to full sunlight

Keeping your Chinese evergreen away from direct sunlight might sound contradictory because sunlight is essential for photosynthesis. However, there are many houseplants which cannot tolerate direct ultraviolet rays and high temperatures. For these plants, heat is a contributing factor to leaf burn and curling.

For optimal growth, make sure that your plant receives only indirect or partial sunlight. You can achieve this by placing it near a north- or east-facing window. Alternatively, use window drapes or curtains to prevent your plant from exposure to direct sunlight. 

Keep in mind that Chinese evergreens also do not like dim light. Although they will tolerate low light to a degree, you might not see their full growth potential if you keep them completely hidden from the sun for extended periods.

3. Low humidity

Humidity is defined as the amount of water vapor present in the air. Hence, the higher the humidity level, the more moisture is in the air. Chinese evergreens need about 60 to 70 percent humidity to thrive.

When the air becomes too dry, especially during the winter season, your plant will not be able to absorb moisture, and this results in dehydration and curling leaves. You might also notice the leaves starting to develop crispy edges and brown tips. Over long periods, low humidity levels can eventually kill your plant.

On the other hand, too much humidity might also not be good for your Chinese evergreen. When the humidity level is too high for long periods, the damp environment will attract mold and fungus, causing a new set of issues. The plant’s soil will also stay wet for longer periods after watering, resulting in the same problems as caused by overwatering.

Knowing all this, you need to maintain the correct balance for your Chinese evergreen to grow happily – the relative humidity around your plant should be neither too high nor too low, in order to maintain its vigor. 

A lot of growers suggest misting the plant’s leaves or placing its pot on a pebble tray filled with water. Both of these approaches can temporarily increase the moisture content in the air. However, they will not help you determine how humid the environment is and the changes needed to keep your plants comfortable. This is where hygrometers and humidifiers become very useful.

Hygrometers help you determine the percentage of humidity in the air. Humidifiers, on the other hand, will help you set and maintain the desired humidity level in your growing space. Having these two devices together will help achieve the ideal growing conditions for your Chinese evergreen plants.

4. Nutrient problems

Chinese evergreens flourish in their natural habitat without fertilizer. However, growing these plants indoors will not provide them with all their essential nutrients, so if you want your plant to reach its full potential, you will probably need to fertilize it for that extra boost. Some of the required macronutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. If your Chinese evergreen lacks any of these, it will eventually develop yellow and curled-up leaves.

On the flip side, giving your plant too much fertilizer can have ill effects, too. Chinese evergreens are slow feeders, so in most cases you do not need to give them very much fertilizer, especially during their dormant season. Otherwise, the excess fertilizer will cause a salt accumulation around the roots which can harm your plant in several ways. Some of these include:

• Burned, dried, or curled up leaves
• Stunted growth
• Wilting
• Increased vulnerability to pests and diseases
• Sudden collapse or demise of plants

If you suspect overfertilization, the best way to save your Chinese evergreen is to repot it in fresh, new soil. Do not forget to inspect the roots before transplanting it – remove mushy or damaged roots using sterilized pruning shears or scissors. This will prevent any fungal infection from spreading to the healthy roots.

5. Acclimatization to a new environment

It is normal to see curling leaves on your Chinese evergreen if you have only recently brought it home from a plant shop. The growing conditions in the store and in your home will be different, so you need to give your new plant some time to acclimatize to its new environment. With proper care, you should see your plant’s leaves return to normal in a short time.

6. Pests and diseases

Curling leaves might be a sign of pest infestation or disease, especially if your plant displays other symptoms like wilting, brown or yellow spots on the leaves, spots that grow larger and form irregular shapes, the presence of fuzzy, white substances on the upper sides of the leaves, deformed leaves, the presence of black sooty substances on the leaves, or drooping foliage. Of course, the symptoms can be extensive and might vary depending on the type of disease or pest and the severity of the damage.

Some diseases and pests common in Chinese evergreens are:

• anthracnose or Myrothecium leaf spot
• fungus gnats
• bacterial leaf spot
• mildew and root rot
• aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, and whiteflies 
• scale insects
• nematodes

The good news is that most of these diseases and pests can be treated easily with the right approaches and favorable growing conditions. This might include the use of sticky traps, horticultural oil, insecticidal soap, neem oil, pyrethrin products, or fungicides like Bonide Copper Fungicide.

7. Unfiltered water

Plant owners usually use tap water for their plants because it is the easiest and cheapest source of water. However, convenient and cheap water sources do come at a price. The truth is, tap water can harm most houseplants because of its mineral contents that are known to be toxic to plants. These includes chlorine, fluoride, copper, and many others. Too many chemical substances can damage the plant’s root system and disrupt the absorption of water and nutrients.

If you have been watering your plant straight from the tap consistently, you may notice its leaves starting to curl, developing water stains, and wilting.

Although filtered water is the best way to go, you can still use tap water for your Chinese evergreen, as long as you follow some precautions. 

First, you can collect the tap water in a bucket and let it sit for at least 24 hours before using it on your plants. Do not cover the bucket, to allow the mineral minerals to dissipate naturally.

Another quick method is to use activated carbon filters to remove any impurities from the water. These will absorb most of the chlorine from the water, making it a safe drink for your Chinese evergreen.

Lastly, you can collect rainwater for your plants. When it rains, just grab your buckets and collect as much water as you can; then store it for future use. 

8. Old leaves 

Like most other plants, Chinese evergreen leaves grow old and will curl and fall off over time. If you notice only the bottom leaves curling, this is likely due to aging and nothing to worry about. Plants naturally cut the supply of nutrients and water to their older leaves so that they can prioritize younger leaves.

You can simply cut off the old, curled leaves to keep your Chinese evergreen looking attractive.

Conclusion

If the leaves on your Chinese evergreen start curling, it usually indicates a problem. The most common cause is inappropriate watering, but it might also be due to other factors like sunburn, low humidity, overfertilization, pests, diseases, or environmental stress. 

Curling leaves are unsightly and can be frustrating if you do not understand the specific cause. Hopefully, through this guide, you can troubleshoot what is wrong with your plant and address the issues appropriately.

Image: istockphoto.com / Francisco Herrera

Brown spots on the leaves of your Chinese evergreen are one of your plant’s unique ways of revealing an underlying problem. Most issues associated with brown spots on leaves are related to either overly dry or waterlogged soil, or to dry air. 

However, there are also other external factors that might also cause leaf discoloration. This guide aims to help you diagnose this problem in your Chinese evergreen and implement the right solutions to bring back your plant’s vigor.

Common causes of brown spots on Chinese evergreen

1. Too much water

Overwatering is a common mistake among plant owners generally, and you could also make this mistake when you see your plants in distress and (wrongly) assume that it needs more water. Brown spots, for example, might lead you to think that your plant is thirsty, when it is actually drowning and suffocating from too much water. As the experts say – overwatering is the easiest way to kill your plants.

Chinese evergreens, like most houseplants, need their soil just damp enough to keep them hydrated. Allowing them to sit in waterlogged soil for prolonged periods cuts off the flow of oxygen to the roots, which will eventually cause the roots to die and start to rot. And, without healthy roots, it is impossible for your plant to absorb the water and nutrients it needs to stay alive. 

Wilting leaves with brown spots are probably the most obvious signs of a drowning plant, but if you remove it from its pot, you will also see that the roots have become dark and mushy instead of being white and firm.

This condition is not always caused by straightforward overwatering. Other factors can also contribute to root rot, including densely-packed soil, pots without sufficient drainage holes, and pots that are too large for the plant. All of these factors prevent excess water from draining efficiently, resulting in standing water around the plant’s roots. Continually wet soil, whatever the reason, will decay the roots and the rot will soon spread throughout the plant. The wet conditions are also an ideal breeding ground for fungi, which can further exacerbate the problem.

2. Not enough water

Are you often forgetful about watering your plant because of your busy schedule? Then you may already be familiar with the unfortunate outcome of neglecting a Chinese evergreen for too long. As the soil becomes too dry, the plant’s roots become severely damaged due to dehydration. The ill effects manifest as pale, sad-looking foliage with brown spots all over. 

We have mentioned how harmful overwatering is to our Chinese evergreen plants, but so is underwatering. If you are a novice gardener, this might leave you baffled as to exactly how much water is sufficient to keep your Chinese evergreen in top shape. Unfortunately, there are no specific rules that dictate how much water your plant needs, because the frequency and amount of water will depend on factors like the season, your local climate, and the current weather conditions. 

The finger test is probably the easiest way to determine when your plant needs water. This is done by using your finger to feel the dampness of the topsoil, down to about an inch or two deep. If the soil feels dry, it is time to water your plant. Another method is to invest in a soil moisture meter, which will more accurately monitor the moisture content of your soil in real-time. 

The best practice when watering your Chinese evergreen is to water it enough that you can see excess water flowing out from the pot’s drainage holes. Be consistent about your watering, as irregularity is not good for the plant’s health.

3. Low humidity

Low humidity levels can compromise the health of your Chinese evergreen. Dry air can cause several problems in houseplants, including root and foliar diseases, plant stress, leaf discolorations, and falling leaves. You might also notice the leaves becoming brown and dry due to the lack of moisture in the environment. 

Unfortunately, it can be very difficult to control humidity, even in a greenhouse, because it fluctuates with the changes in air temperature. And the drier the air, the faster the plant’s transpiration rate.

Chinese evergreens need about 60 to 70 percent humidity for proper growth and healthy foliage. To achieve this humidity level, you may need to mist the plant regularly or – even better – use a humidifier in the room.

4. Nutrient deficiency

A lack of soil nutrients is another problem you might encounter with your Chinese evergreen. You can tell that your plant is nutrient deficient when it produces deformed leaves with kinked edges, yellow or brown leaf edges, or brown spots on its leaves.

Houseplants all need roughly the same essential macronutrients and micronutrients for healthy growth, and an absence of any of these nutrients can cause various growth problems and diseases. 

Some common reasons for nutrient deficiencies in plants are as follows:

• Poor quality soil
• Inadequate fertilizer
• Plant has not been repotted for too long

5. Using tap water with harsh minerals

Using tap water for your plant is not a good idea, because it contains harsh elements that can damage the plant. These include fluorine, lead, chlorine, and bicarbonates, all of which are proven to harm houseplants. 

Filtered water is the ideal for houseplants because it is free of impurities and minerals. Although having a home filtration system is the best way to go, there are other, cheaper ways to make tap water safe for your plants. 

The most common method is to fill a bucket with tap water and let it sit overnight. This allows most of the elements like chlorine to dissipate naturally.

Carbon-type filters also work well for filtering hard water. However, it is not advisable to use water that comes from a household softener; it is known that the salt in softeners can damage plants.

Another cheap and safe source of water is rainwater. Simply collect the water in buckets when it rains and store it until you need it.

6. Plant stress

Houseplants like Chinese evergreens can suffer stress from various external factors. Although it might not kill your plant right away, continued stress can contribute to a reduced quality of foliage, browning leaves, stunted growth, and decaying roots. Thus, it is important to understand plant stress so that you can grow your Chinese evergreen optimally and prevent unsightly discolorations.

Some common stressors in plants are:

• Overwatering
• Repotting or transplanting
• New environment
• Extreme temperature fluctuations and cold drafts
• Soil compaction
• Inappropriate soil pH
• Soil toxicity

7. Sunburn

Chinese evergreens are happiest when exposed to indirect sunlight. For this reason, they are best grown indoors, and leaving your plant outside under full sunlight can burn the leaves and turn them brown.

Chinese evergreens are native to tropical rainforests, where they thrive under the tree canopy in filtered sunlight. Exposing your plant to indirect sunlight for two to three hours a day should be sufficient to foster proper growth. If you do not have access to indirect sunlight, you can resort to artificial lighting to keep your plants healthy and growing.

8. Pest infestation

Pest infestation is another possible reason your Chinese evergreen’s leaves have developed brown spots. These tiny creatures suck the sap from your plant’s leaves and inject salivary fluids that can kill portions of the leaf. Sucking insects excrete sticky substances that promote the growth of sooty mold and attract ants. Some insects also breed and lay their eggs on the leaves, exacerbating the damage.

If your Chinese evergreen is struggling with a pest infestation, you can use one of the solutions below to bring your plant back to life:

• Clean the leaves with horticultural soap
• Spray neem oil on the affected parts to get rid of the pests
• Mix equal parts water and rubbing alcohol, and use mixture this to remove the pests from the leaves and stems

Can Chinese evergreens recover from brown spots?

The good news is that your Chinese evergreen should bounce back to health quite easily with the right care and preventative measures. If you see brown spots on its leaves, identify the cause, prune the affected leaves, and begin correcting the problem. Keep in mind that the most common causes of brown spots are inappropriate watering and lack of humidity, so make sure to check those first. 

Additionally, the color of the soil’s surface alone might not tell you the whole story. As mentioned, it is recommended to use a moisture meter device to keep track of your plant’s moisture needs, or at least use the finger method to determine whether you have dry or waterlogged soil.

Wrapping it up

One of the reasons that Chinese evergreens are so popular is that they are very low maintenance – a novice grower should find this beautiful plant easy to care for with minimal effort. However, this does not mean that long-term neglect and inappropriate care will not harm your plant eventually.

Brown spots on the leaves of your Chinese evergreen are an obvious sign that your plant is now well and needs a bit more attention. You will need to identify the problem in order to address it correctly and, provided you act in time, your plant should bounce back to health very soon.

Image: istockphoto.com / Adehan Ahmad