Audrey Woods

Philodendrons are popular plants for both living areas and work spaces, thanks to their vibrant leaves and tropical vibe. These plants are also low-maintenance and forgiving of almost any form of neglect, making them a favorite among growers.

Although Philodendrons are hardy plants, this does not mean they are not immune to problems. And seeing your favorite plant’s leaves curling up can be disheartening and frustrating, especially if you do not know what is causing the problem.

If this is your first time growing a Philodendron, you might be wondering why its leaves are curling. This guide will provide you with some insights into the possible causes, as well as some tips on how to fix the problem.

Reasons your Philodendron’s leaves are curling

1. Dry soil

Although Philodendrons are drought-tolerant, depriving them of water for too long can cause damage such as drooping, browning or yellowing, and curling of the leaves. Excessive soil dryness is generally caused by an inconsistent watering schedule.

Philodendrons love slightly moist soil; this allows for easier nutrient uptake. This is why it is important to keep your plant well-hydrated, especially during its growing seasons. Never let the topsoil become too dry, as this can potentially damage your plant’s root system.

2. Overwatering

We have already mentioned that underwatering can have detrimental effects on your plant, but overwatering could be even worse! This problem is prevalent among newbie gardeners who have not yet learned how to properly water their plants. Some people assume it is just easier to overestimate the amount of water needed, especially if they do not know how to check the soil’s moisture level. 

Overwatering damages the plant’s root system, cutting off the supply of oxygen and nutrients needed for your plant’s growth. Hence, in simple terms, too much water can drown your Philodendron.

Curling and discoloration of the leaves are some of the early signs of overwatering. If you fail to take heed of your plant’s hints and continue this bad habit, overwatering will eventually kill your plant.

3. Root rot

Root rot in Philodendrons is usually the result of prolonged overwatering, although there are other possible contributing factors such as fungal diseases, compact soil, large containers, and poor drainage.

Damaged plant roots can no longer absorb water and nutrients, and this causes their leaves to curl, turn brown or yellow, and wilt. At this point, you might react by throwing in an extra dose of water in the hope of reviving your plant. However, by doing so, you are actually killing it faster. 

You might also notice the presence of mold or green algae along the plant’s stems and on the soil. This is a clear sign that your Philodendron is struggling from overwatering and the roots may be rotting. 

Once the rot has reached the stems and leaves of your plant, it may be too late to save it. 

4. Lack of nutrients

Nutrients support plant growth; a lack thereof can weaken the plant, attracting diseases and cause leaf discolorations. For example, nitrogen deficiency in the soil can cause Philodendron leaves to curl and become a pale yellowish color. Over time, this deficiency can lead to stunted growth and unhealthy foliage. A lack of phosphorus can also cause the leaves to curl, but in this case they will develop brown spots.

5. Too much fertilizer

We have already mentioned the negative effects of nutrient deficiency in Philodendrons. But while it might be tempting to overfeed your plant in the hope of bringing it back to life, you need to keep in mind that overfertilization can be equally detrimental.

Giving your plant an extra dose of fertilizer can cause a buildup of salts in the soil and inhibit the roots from absorbing water. The most common symptoms of an over-fertilized Philodendron are root burn, leaf burn, slow growth, and curled leaves. If you continue applying fertilizer in excess amounts, your plant’s roots will become increasingly damaged and the plant will be weakened against diseases.

6. Temperature stress

Although Philodendrons are tropical and highly adaptable plants, they cannot flourish in an environment where the temperature is too high. They will easily dehydrate due to the increased rate of transpiration, causing their leaves to wilt and curl.

Cold temperatures can be harmful to your plant, too. Philodendrons cannot tolerate temperatures below 55 degrees Fahrenheit, so if you keep your plant at this temperature for too long, it will likely perish.

Also keep in mind that cold drafts can freeze the sap in your plant’s cells, which will cause black or brown spots on the leaves. Thus, keep your Philodendron away from air conditioners and from open windows during cold seasons to prevent leaf damage.

7. Too much sunlight

Philodendrons, in their natural habitat, would receive dappled, indirect sunlight, and cannot tolerate excessive exposure to the sun. Curling and yellowing leaves are usually the most obvious sign that your plant is sunburned.

8. Low humidity

A humid and moist environment is ideal for your Philodendron, encouraging growth and supporting healthy foliage. If the humidity level becomes too low, your plant will likely suffer from leaf browning and curling. These signs are similar to those of underwatering, because low humidity causes your plant to lose water faster. The leaf curling is your plant’s natural reaction to conserve water and keep itself as hydrated as possible. 

Other telltale signs that your Philodendron is struggling with low humidity levels are:

• Drooping and falling leaves
• Yellowing leaves
• Leaf edges turning brown and crisp

9. Poor water quality

Tap water can be harmful to Philodendrons because it contains minerals like chlorine, fluoride, and salt, all of which can be toxic to plants. Thus, if you use unfiltered tap water, your plant might develop leaf spots and curled leaves. Tap water can also cause stunted growth as the salt buildup around the plant’s roots inhibits the absorption of water.

Hence, it is highly recommended to use purified water to keep your Philodendron healthy and happy. If you do not have a water filtration system at home, you can use rainwater instead. You can still use tap water if you need to, but let it sit overnight to allow the unwanted minerals to dissipate.

10. Rootbound state

If your Philodendron outgrows its current pot, it will not get enough water and nutrients to foster proper growth and healthy leaves. At this point, you may notice its leaves curling, turning yellow, or falling off.

11. Wrong container size

If your pot is too large, your plant will struggle with excess stagnant water, because the large volume of soil will take too long to dry. This can cause root rot.

If your pot is too small, on the other hand, the plant will become rootbound, as described above, causing problems with water and nutrient uptake.

Hence, the right size container is critical for your Philodendron to thrive. If it outgrows its pot, make sure to transplant it to an appropriately-sized container as soon as possible.

12. Transplant shock

As mentioned before, repotting your Philodendron occasionally is important to maintain its healthy foliage. However, repotting is also stressful for the plant, so you might notice symptoms like leaf curling, drooping, browning leaf tips and edges, and falling leaves. It might sound worrying, but this is completely normal. Your plant is simply adjusting to its new pot, so be patient. The best thing you can do is to provide it with the best possible conditions to reduce the effects of transplant shock. 

13. Disease

Philodendrons are hardy plants, but this does not make them completely resistant to diseases, especially if they are not receiving the right care. Curling leaves are one sign of plant disease, but there can be other symptoms as well, depending on the type of disease.

Do not worry too much, as most plant diseases can be treated. If you can identify the problem early on, your Philodendron will likely recover quickly and regain its vibrant leaves.

14. Pest infestation

Pests like scale insects, spider mites, thrips, and mealybugs can cause great damage to Philodendrons. These nuisance creatures feed on your plant’s sap and leave waste products that harm the leaves and stems. Some early signs of pest infestation include curled and wrinkled leaves, distorted or pinched leaves, a droopy appearance, and the presence of yellow or white spots on the leaves. 

If you do not act right away, these insects can turn your favorite plant into an ugly mess. But do not worry – with a little patience, you can easily get rid of them using pesticides or neem oil. 

15. Natural aging

If you have eliminated all of the above-listed causes and you still see curling leaves on your plant, then it might just be due to natural aging, which is completely normal. Older leaves might become curly and brown or yellow before eventually falling off. To maintain your plant’s beauty, you can simply trim off the old leaves and dried stems using sterilized pruning shears.

Can curled leaves go back to normal?

Once you have identified and addressed the cause, your Philodendron should recover quickly. Curled leaves can be reversed provided the problem is addressed early enough.

How to fix curled Philodendron leaves

Philodendrons can easily bounce back to health with the right care and conditions. Here are some care tips to help your plant return to its former glory and prevent future problems:

• Make sure to keep your Philodendron in an environment with sufficient humidity. Investing in a humidifier will help you achieve this, as will regular misting of the leaves.
• A regular watering schedule will go a long way towards keeping your Philodendron in top shape. Keep in mind that watering should be reduced during cold seasons. Check the soil regularly to determine when your plant needs a drink – the easiest way to do this is to use a soil moisture meter.
• If your plant’s soil is very dry, stand the pot in a basin of water so that the soil can absorb water through the pot’s drainage holes. Make sure the soil is saturated before returning the plant to its saucer.
• It is highly recommended to use filtered water for watering your plants. Filtration removes minerals like chlorine and fluoride that are toxic to most plants.
• If you suspect your plant is struggling with standing water, transplant it to a new pot with fresh soil mix, and make sure the container has drainage holes to allow excess water to flow out. If most of the roots have turned dark and mushy, your plant is less likely to survive even after repotting.
• If your plant has contracted a disease, isolate it immediately to avoid spreading the disease to other plants. 
• Apply fertilizer at the correct ratio to give your Philodendron a boost during spring and summer. It is best to avoid fertilizing during the winter. It is also highly recommended to use natural fertilizers like manure and compost, although artificial fertilizers are more convenient.
• Repot your Philodendron once every two to three years only, to limit transplant shock and other problems. 

Conclusion

If your Philodendron’s leaves start curling, it might be caused by low humidity, inappropriate watering, overfeeding, pests and diseases, or transplant shock, among other issues. Make sure to examine all the possible causes so that you know how to address the problem appropriately. 

Keep in mind that most of these issues can be treated and prevented with the right growing conditions, so give your Philodendron the love and care it deserves and you will ensure constantly vibrant foliage! 

Image: istockphoto.com / Karin de Mamiel

Also known as the Swiss cheese plant, Monstera deliciosa is a gorgeous houseplant popular for its large, fenestrated leaves and low-maintenance profile. 

Although these plants are hardy and do not demand much attention, they can still be affected by prolonged neglect and inappropriate care, which can cause their leaves to droop and go limp.

The most common culprit if your Monstera’s leaves are limp is a lack of water, but other problems like temperature stress, nutrient deficiency, repotting, improper use of fertilizer, pests, and plant diseases can also contribute to the problem. Hence, it is critical to determine the underlying cause of your plant’s droopy leaves in order to revive its lush appearance as soon as possible.

If you are struggling with a limp Monstera, hopefully this guide will give you the answers you are looking for!

Why are my Monstera leaves limp? Common causes

Monstera leaves can become limp for many reasons. Dry soil is the most common culprit and should be ruled out first. Detailed below are all the most common causes of limp Monstera leaves, so work your way through the list and try to establish which description fits the bill for your own plant.

1. Overwatering

Like most houseplants, Monsteras will become limp when given too much water. Plants breathe through their roots, and soggy soil does not allow space for air pockets between the soil particles, resulting in a limited oxygen supply. In simple terms, overwatering can drown your plant.

Standing water around the roots can also cause root rot, which means that even if you are watering your plant adequately, it will not be able to hydrate itself due to its damaged root system. With continued bad watering habits, your plant will eventually die.

2. Underwatering

Probably the most common reason Monstera leaves go limp and floppy is underwatering. When your plant is dry and thirsty, its leaves will also become dull and their tips will turn brown. 

The Monstera is a rainforest plant from the tropical forests of Central America and Southern Mexico. This means that it needs a moist environment to ensure proper growth and healthy foliage, without which it will quickly deteriorate. Aside from becoming limp, the lack of moisture in the leaves will also result in wilting, yellowing, and leaf falling.

3. Temperature stress

Monsteras prefer a warm and steady temperature to thrive, ideally between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures outside this range are not suitable for your Monstera and can cause problems such as limp leaves.

If the temperature is too cold, the plant becomes vulnerable to pest infestation and diseases which affect the leaves, while extremely hot temperatures can cause the leaves to wilt as the heat increases the plant’s rate of transpiration.

Sudden changes in temperature can also have ill effects for your Monstera, so it is important to protect it from hot or cold drafts from heaters, radiators or air conditioners. You should also keep it indoors if you live in an area with cold winters.

4. Low humidity

Monsteras prefer to be kept in a humid environment. Low humidity levels can compromise the health of the plant and affect the turgidity of the leaves. As a rule of thumb, it is best to keep the humidity above 50 percent to prevent the leaves from curling or going limp. Keep in mind that these tropical plants are native to warm, damp rainforests, and it is important to mimic these natural conditions as best you can to ensure healthier foliage and better growth.

5. Nutrient deficiency

Limp leaves can also be a sign of poor nutrition. This problem can be due to a damaged root system, or because the soil is depleted of the vital macronutrients that support the plant’s vibrant foliage. 

If you suspect your Monstera plant is struggling with a nutrient deficiency, consider using an indoor plant fertilizer to give it a boost. Fertilizers contain the essential nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium that promote foliage growth and a strong root system. Artificial fertilizers are the easiest option, but you can also use natural compost to provide nourishment for your plant.

6. Incorrect lighting

Bright sunlight might seem ideal for tropical plants like the Monstera, but this is not the case. Monsteras cannot tolerate direct exposure to the sun’s harmful UV rays, and this will cause their leaves to scorch or go limp. 

That said, do not keep your plant in a room where the light is too dim, either! The lack of sufficient light can weaken its stems and foliage as it will not be able to produce enough chlorophyll to keep itself healthy. 

The ideal is to expose your Monstera to indirect sunlight. An ideal spot for this is near a window that lets in dappled light. This will allow it to efficiently perform photosynthesis without being burnt in the process.

8. Drainage issues

Planting your Monstera in a container with poor drainage can have detrimental effects similar to those of overwatering. As mentioned before, soggy soil can damage the plant’s root system. Pots without proper drainage can trap too much water inside, causing the soil to become waterlogged, and this will deprive the roots of oxygen and eventually kill your plant.

To prevent your plant from drowning, make sure that the plant’s container allows excess water to drain freely. It is also highly recommended to choose a loose soil mix to prevent too much water retention.

9. Plant disease

Plant diseases are often responsible for foliage damage, manifesting as limp leaves, moldy coatings, rotting plant tissue, and wilting. If your Monstera’s leaves have become limp and you suspect disease, check it thoroughly for further symptoms. Inspect the foliage and, if you can, unpot the plant and check the roots. 

10. Pest infestation

Pests can be a big threat to your Monstera, inflicting damage on all parts of the plant. These tiny creatures compete for the nutrients your plant needs to stay healthy and vibrant, so if your plant is infested, you will likely notice the leaves going limp, some form of leaf discoloration, spots and holes on the leaf, and defoliation.

11. Repotting shock

Repotting a Monstera disrupts its growing conditions, and the resulting shock will likely cause its leaves to droop until it recovers. Do not be afraid if your plant goes limp or droopy immediately after repotting it; this is to be expected and it should make a full recovery once it has adjusted to its new container.

How to fix limp leaves on your Monstera

Seeing the leaves of your Monstera limp can be worrying, especially if you do not know the actual cause. Thankfully, your Monstera is a hardy plant, so you will probably just need to make some minor changes to your care routine to help bring back its vigor.

Here are some quick tips to do that:

1. Provide adequate water

As mentioned, your Monstera cannot tolerate overwatering or underwatering. The best approach is to water it only when the soil feels dry. Poke your finger into the top layers of soil to determine their moisture level, or take a visual cue by simply inspecting the soil’s surface – moist soil is usually darker than dry soil.

Another way to check is to use an XLUX Soil Moisture Meter. Unlike the previous methods, this device is more reliable and accurate in measuring the soil’s moisture level.

2. Provide indirect sunlight

Monsteras do better in shady environments with access to partial sunlight. If you are growing your plant indoors, you can move it near a window so that it receives sufficient light. Although Monsteras are tolerant of low light levels, they grow healthier when exposed to bright, indirect sunlight.

3. Ensure the correct humidity level

Monsteras hate dry climates, so give your plant a boost, especially during the winter season, by misting its leaves and placing several bowls of water nearby. Water evaporation helps increase the humidity levels in the room to keep your plant in good condition. 

Another solution is to invest in a humidifier, which will ensure that the environment maintains a desirable level of humidity to keep your houseplant happy.

4. Select the appropriate pot size

If nothing seems to be reviving your plant, the last resort would be repotting it. However, you must be careful in choosing the right pot size, as your plant cannot thrive if its roots are too tightly packed in its new container. 

Make sure to transplant your Monstera carefully, without damaging its root ball. If you notice dark or mushy roots, trim them off using sterilized pruning shears or scissors. Do not forget to clean the roots gently in running water before finally replanting the Monstera in its new pot.

Should I cut limp Monstera leaves?

Cutting the limp leaves alone will not help your plant recover – you need to determine the cause of the problem and address it appropriately. Drooping leaves are generally repairable once you are able to solve the underlying issue.

If you notice yellow or blackened leaves, you can trim these eyesores to maintain your Monstera’s neat appearance. Pruning can also help encourage your plant to bloom, especially when done during the growing season. However, do not prune your plant during winter – this is its dormant season and pruning can harm it.

Conclusion

If you are looking for an easy-to-care-for houseplant with an amazing aesthetic, the Monstera might be your best option. These plants can adapt well to various environments and are not difficult to grow, making them a favorite among novice and experienced growers alike. They are also easy to revive if you catch the problem in time, so if your Monstera’s leaves look a little limp or droopy, it might just need a bit of your attention to bring its iconic leaves back to life.

Image: istockphoto.com / Ekaterina Petruhan

Most plant owners would get a fright if they suddenly saw one of their houseplants looking droopy and sad. So, if you have a droopy Pilea plant, of course you will be looking for what went wrong, as well as how to perk it up again.

There are several possible reasons your Pilea may be drooping. Fortunately, most of these issues can be quite easily fixed with the proper care and treatments, so read on to find out how to save your drooping Pilea and what you can do to prevent this from happening again in the future. 

My Pilea is drooping – is this normal?

Pilea peperomioides, also known as the Chinese money plant, comes with vibrant, coin-shaped leaves on long petioles that make the leaves curve downward slightly. In most cases, this curvature is normal, but you should start to worry if your Pilea develops a drastic downward curve or any unusually droopy appearance.

Drooping is usually a sign of a plant’s distress. You may think that the best course of action to remedy a drooping Pilea is to give the plant a drink, but the drooping problem may not always be that straightforward. 

Although a lack of water is the most common cause of drooping leaves, there are other possible factors that might contribute to the issue. These include waterlogged soil, temperature extremes, lack of sunlight, pests, diseases, and transplant stress. If you do not  understand the underlying cause, you could make some of these problems even worse if you give your plant more water.

Why is my Pilea drooping – causes and solutions

Saving a drooping Pilea requires proper care and attention. To speed its recovery, you will need to identify the underlying issue and address it appropriately. Some of the possible causes of a drooping Pilea are explained in detail below:

1. Lack of water

Underwatering is one of the leading causes of drooping in Pileas. Plants need to be well-hydrated to stand firm and maintain their vigor, so extremely dry soil can have a severe effect on your houseplant and cause it to droop.

If you neglect to water your Pilea for an extended period, it will eventually lose its leaves, shrivel, and die. So, as soon as you notice your Pilea drooping, make sure to check the soil’s moisture  – it might just need a drink to revive itself!

Here are the solutions if you suspect underwatering is the culprit:

• Give your plant a good shower to hydrate its roots. A dehydrated Pilea, like most houseplants, can easily bounce back to health once its soil is rehydrated. Make sure that the excess water has drained from the pot to prevent standing water collecting around the roots.
• Routinely check the soil’s moisture content – this will help you determine when to water your Pilea. One way is to insert your finger about two to three inches deep into the soil and, if it feels dry, your plant is probably thirsty. Alternatively, invest in an XLUX Soil Moisture Meter to accurately monitor the soil’s moisture content at root level. This device comes with a sensor probe that you can insert into the soil and a clear dial display. This is a more reliable and convenient method if you find the finger test a bit messy.
• Make sure to establish a regular watering schedule. Watering your Pilea once a week should suffice in most cases, but this depends on the season and your local climate.

2. Root rot due to waterlogged soil

Overwatering is the number one plant killer. If you notice your Pilea suddenly droop, it might be a cry to be rescued from waterlogged soil.

Too much water can cause more damage to your Pilea than underwatering – it drowns the roots, cutting the supply of oxygen and nutrients to the plant. Root rot is often irreversible, especially if the entire root system has already turned mushy and dark. However, you might still save your plant if there are still some healthy, firm roots remaining.

Aside from too much watering, using the wrong pot size or a pot with poor drainage can also cause the soil to become saturated. So, even if you do not overwater your plant, you might still damage its roots if you fail to recognize these factors.

Here are some solutions if you suspect root rot in your drooping Pilea:

• First, stop overwatering your plant! Only water it again when the topsoil is dry. You can use a soil probe like the XLUX Soil Moisture Meter to determine the right time to water your plant.
• To save a chronically overwatered Pilea, gently remove the plant from its pot and cut away the damaged roots using a sterilized pair of scissors or pruning shears. 
• Root rot and soggy soil can attract molds and fungi, so before transferring your plant to a new container, treat its roots with a fungicide solution. 
• Use a quick-draining soil that is rich in organic material. The ideal mix for a Pilea contains peat moss, leaf mold, and perlite.
• Make sure that the new pot has drainage holes. This will allow any excess water to flow out freely and prevent waterlogged soil. Terracotta or clay pots with drainage holes work best for Pileas.
• To prevent overwatering, it is best to water your plant in the daytime so that the water can evaporate faster. As much as possible, avoid watering at night so that the soil and leaves do not stay wet for long periods.

3. Extreme temperatures and drafts

Pileas prefer temperatures between 60 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures outside the plant’s comfort zone can result in wilting and drooping leaves.

Furthermore, cold drafts can have a detrimental effect on the plant’s cells. Extremely low temperatures can freeze most of the water in the leaves, causing dehydration. Exposure to full sunlight is also harmful, since the sun’s ultraviolet rays can burn the plant’s leaves.

These tips should help protect your plant from temperature swings:

• Do not place your plant near an open window during the cold months. 
• Keep your Pilea away from air conditioners or heating devices.
• To encourage better growth and prevent drooping or leaf discoloration, make sure that your plant sits in a humid environment – ideally between 50 and 75 percent humidity. You can mist the plant’s leaves several times a week or place it on a gravel tray or saucer filled with water to increase the humidity around it. However, investing in a humidifier is the best and most convenient solution to maintain a stable humidity level for your plant.

4. Not enough sunlight

Pilea plants enjoy warm, partial sunlight, making them excellent for indoor conditions. However, keeping them in areas without adequate light can result in droopy, saggy leaves.

A lack of sunlight can influence your plant’s health in many ways. Photosynthesis, the plant’s metabolic process, will be greatly reduced, causing stunted growth, smaller-sized leaves, pale-colored leaves, and stretched-out stems. 

Although Pileas can tolerate lower light levels than some other plants, you still need to make sure that your plant receives enough sunlight to promote dense and healthy foliage. Here are some tips you can follow:

• Place your Pilea in a shady area with access to partial sunlight. If it has been lacking light, try moving it close to a south-facing window and see if its condition improves.
• Make sure your plant is not exposed to full, scorching sun.
• Rotate the plant occasionally to prevent it from leaning to one side due to a lack of sufficient light on the sunless side.
• Use artificial grow lights if your plant cannot get access to sufficient indirect sunlight.

5. Pest infestation

Pilea plants cannot protect themselves from pest infestations. Mealybugs, aphids, and moths are just some of the bugs that can assault your plant and cause a drooping appearance. 

Pests damage the plant’s foliage by feeding on its sap – or juices – and leaving sticky waste substances on the leaves. Aside from drooping leaves, pest infestations can cause stunted growth, yellowing, and wilting, all of which can turn your beautiful plant into an ugly mess.

Here is what you can do to correct the problem:

• Remove the insects by hand as soon as you see them on the leaves. This should be your first line of defense while their number is still low.
• Use eco-friendly sticky traps to manage pest populations.
• Wipe the leaves with a solution of equal parts rubbing alcohol and water to remove the pests.
• Apply insecticides, neem oil, or horticultural oil to kill the bugs.

6. Fungal disease

Fungal diseases might be to blame if your Pilea plant is suddenly drooping and looking unhealthy.

Symptoms of fungal infection might vary depending on the type of disease. For example, Pythium root rot might cause droopy leaves and mushy roots. Other fungal diseases that affect Pilea plants include Southern blight, Anthracnose, and Rhizoctonia aerial blight. 

If you notice other symptoms like a weakened stem, powdery mildew, brownish lesions, leaf bruises, or spots along the stem and petioles, then it is likely that your plant has a fungal infection.

The best way to save a plant with fungal disease is to use fungicides. Try some of the tips below:

• Clean the infected stem and leaves with neem oil.
• Use propiconazole if your plant has Southern blight disease, and fludioxonil if it is struggling with Rhizoctonia aerial blight. Try Daconil to treat Anthracnose.
• You can also apply a baking soda solution to the affected parts of the plant to kill fungus.
• To deal with root infections, apply bio fungicides to the soil.
• Make sure that your plant receives enough sunlight while you treat the fungal disease.
• Do not overwater your plant and avoid getting its leaves wet for extended periods. 
• If one of your plants is infected, make sure to isolate it immediately to prevent spreading the disease to other healthy plants.
• Keep your Pilea plants in an environment with correct humidity levels.
• Use sterilized scissors or pruning shears when trimming your plants, and make sure your Pilea is not infected with fungus before you propagate its cuttings.

7. Transplant stress

Like most houseplants, Pileas can experience stress when they are transplanted to new soil or a new environment. They may lose their posture and droop. Do not worry – this reaction is normal. Give your Pilea enough time to adjust to its new pot or soil, and it should return to its normal appearance in a short time.

Here are some tips to reduce transplant shock:

• There is nothing you can do to prevent transplant shock, so while your plant is acclimatizing to its new home, try to provide it with the ideal conditions to help it recover quickly. That includes keeping it hydrated without overwatering it.
• Trimming your plant too much after repotting it can add to its stress, so limit the pruning to less than one third of your plant.
• Make sure to handle the roots with great care while repotting. Do not try to loosen the dense root sections, as this risks damaging them.
• Add organic mulch around the base of your plant to foster healthier roots and foliage.

Conclusion

Knowing exactly what has made your Pilea droop will go a long way towards finding the appropriate solution to return it to full health. Hopefully, this guide has provided some useful information about the common causes and fixes of drooping Pilea leaves. Just remember to make a habit of checking your plant’s leaves and roots regularly, so you can spot the early signs of any problems and prevent unhealthy-looking foliage in the future. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Akchamczuk

One of the many reasons gardeners love peppers is their wide array of brightly colored varieties. The fruits can be sweet or spicy, and make great additions to salads and almost any home-cooked dishes.

However, a novice gardener might feel frustrated when these supposedly colorful fruits start turning black.

Bell peppers are usually green, red, yellow, or orange, depending on their level of ripeness. There are also varieties, such as Jalapeños, that naturally turn black or dark purple when the fruits start to ripen. 

However, it is possible that diseases, pest infestations, or extreme weather conditions are the culprits if your peppers are turning black. Common signs to look out for are black spots appearing on the fruit, stems, and leaves. If your pepper starts developing a leathery or soft skin, this is also a red flag.

Why are my peppers turning black? – Common causes

There are many possible reasons that your bell peppers are suddenly turning black, as explained in detail below:

1. Natural ripening process

All crops go through a natural ripening and aging process, each with its own distinct traits in terms of texture, taste, and color. In the case of peppers, some varieties naturally turn black as they ripen. For example, Jalapeños change color from green to black once they reach full maturity. Some pepper varieties might also turn dark purple, and this is completely normal.

2. Nutrient deficiencies

Green peppers can turn black if they are nutrient-deficient, particularly in phosphorus and calcium. While nitrogen provides the crops with their lush green leaves, phosphorus and calcium support the flowering and fruiting process. Hence, these minerals are important for the plant to produce good yields. 

If your peppers are not receiving enough minerals, their fruits may begin to develop ugly black spots on their skin. The deficiency will also affect the fruit quality, stem and root development, and the plant’s ability to fight diseases. Hence, if you notice your peppers turning black, you might need to consider fertilizers to boost the plants’ health.

3. Sunscald

Like many plants, peppers thrive in full sunlight, and there are varieties that turn black or dark purple as a defense mechanism against the sun’s harmful UV rays. You might also notice the leaves developing some purple streaks, which should be normal in most cases.

However, too much exposure can have dangerous consequences. Your peppers can develop sunscald, and aside from turning black, some varieties might also develop brown or white spots where the skin is damaged by the intense sunlight. Instead of lush green, you will notice the foliage developing white streaks and the burnt fruits might crack or split open. It is also possible for the burnt areas to rot and become infected with bacteria or fungi.

Although sunscalded peppers are cosmetically unappealing, they are still good to eat. If you want your peppers to maintain their healthy, bright colors, make sure to limit your plants’ exposure to full sunlight, especially during periods of extreme heat.

4. Exposure to cold temperatures

Most pepper varieties grow well in temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit; anything outside this range can affect the plant’s flowering and fruiting process. Blackening or dark purple discolorations are very common during the cold seasons, but this does not mean the fruits are going bad. Jalapeños, in particular, are prone to turning black or purple during winter which should be normal.

However, extremely cold temperatures below 46 degrees Fahrenheit can damage most pepper fruits. Freezing can also cause a stunted appearance in the fruits and can cause the leaves to wilt. Hence, it is highly recommended to grow your peppers inside a greenhouse during winter. You can also use frost protection blankets or any container to protect your fruits from frost, strong wind, and snow.

5. Black bell pepper varieties

Certain bell pepper varieties normally turn black or dark purple at maturity. For example, Jalapeños turn dark purple as part of their ripening process, before finally changing into a bright red color. Black peppercorn, another variety of black bell pepper, also turns black once it reaches its mature state. In most cases, these color changes should not cause any serious concern.

6. Plant diseases

Certain diseases can cause bell pepper fruits and stems to develop black spots. In this case, the affected fruits become unsafe for consumption. Some of the common diseases that cause black discolorations are as follows:

• Fungal infections, which include Anthracnose and Phytophthora blight. Fungal diseases usually cause the appearance of black cankers and black rings on the fruits.
• Viral diseases, which cause light-colored rings on the affected fruits. The plants also develop black spots on the fruits, stems, and leaves, leading to wilting and death.
• Bacterial infections, which are often a result of intercropping. Plants that are exposed to elevated temperatures and humid environments are at risk of developing this disease.  

7. Blossom end rot

Blossom end rot is a result of nutritional deficiency and inappropriate soil conditions for the pepper plants. Novice gardeners might mistake blossom end rot as a type of rot, but it actually is not. The condition is related to problems with calcium uptake, low soil calcium, low soil pH, drought conditions, and improper watering. Affected fruits usually develop large brown or black spots on the bottom. 

During the growing season, you might start to notice light green or yellow spots. Soon, these spots become dark, leathery lesions, which make the fruits aesthetically unappealing. 

Blossom end rot in peppers is not bacterial, viral, or fungal-related, so it is safe to cut away the affected spot and eat the rest of the fruit. 

8. Pest infestation

There are many types of garden pests that damage pepper plants, at all stages of growth. The most common ones are aphids, thrips, whiteflies, and pepper weevils. These insects lay their eggs and hatch their larvae inside the fruit, causing the appearance of black spots. As they continue to reproduce and consume the fruit, these creepy crawlies leave behind by-products and feces which look like coffee grounds or sawdust. Without proper intervention, your plants will likely suffer from leaf loss, stunted growth, and damage to the stems and fruits. 

9. Exposure to artificial herbicides

Certain synthetic chemicals used to control weeds might do more harm than good in your garden. The chemical contents of herbicides are known to cause malformations and the development of black spots on pepper fruits, leaves, and stems. For this reason, it is recommended that you use compost and mulch instead to deter weeds and improve your soil’s fertility.  

Can you eat a pepper with black spots?

Peppers with black spots are usually safe to eat, but might be unappealing to some people. In this case, you can cut away the blemished areas and eat the rest of the fruit. However, some black spots might signal spoilage or crop disease, in which case it is better to discard the entire fruit for your safety.

How to prevent peppers from turning black

Prevention is always better than cure, and that applies to crops, too. Black spots on peppers can be unappealing, but there are certain tips you can follow to prevent your fruits from turning black.

1. Basic maintenance

Providing your plants with favorable growing conditions goes a long way in preventing the appearance of black cankers. This includes using a well-draining soil, proper watering, correct fertilizer, and protecting your plants from extreme weather conditions. It is also best to use soil test kits to ensure that the soil has the right pH for your peppers to grow happily.

2. Use drip irrigation

Drip irrigation ensures that your plants are watered close to the ground, without splashing water on the leaves. Keeping foliage wet for extended periods can invite fungal spores and other diseases that can cause damage and stunted growth. 

3. Use natural pesticides

Neem oil can do wonders when it comes to eradicating pests in plants. It is also organic and safe for humans and other beneficial insects, unlike artificial pesticides. 

4. Consider disease-resistant pepper varieties

Disease-resistant varieties of pepper will help you grow good-quality fruits in your home garden. Make sure to do your research and read the seed package labels to know whether your chosen plants are disease-resistant. 

5. Crop switching

Switching your garden crops annually will help prevent certain diseases in your bell peppers. Additionally, through this practice, you can protect the soil from nutrient depletion and degradation.

6. Remove infected plants

Plant diseases such as fungal infections can spread easily to other plants. Hence, you must remove any infected crops from your garden to avoid affecting your other, healthy plants. It is also not advisable to compost the diseased plant remains, since bacteria and spores can survive in the soil and thus continue to affect your garden plants.

Wrapping it up

There are many possible reasons that your peppers may develop black discolorations. Some pepper varieties will naturally turn black during the ripening process. However, the appearance of black spots or rings could also be indicative of disease, pest infestation, improper watering, sunscald, or a lack of nutrients. 

Unless the black spots are caused by a plant disease, most peppers that have turned black should be safe to consume. The only downside is that the affected fruits might look unappealing, but rest assured, the black blemishes will not affect the taste and nutrient content of your peppers. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Phanompai

Looking for a lovely ornament to beautify your office or living room? Then you might be considering either a Lemon Lime Philodendron or a Neon Pothos. 

With both these houseplants having stunning, heart-shaped leaves and eye-catching colors, a beginner would be forgiven for confusing the two – they do look very similar. 

If you are planning to grow one of these plants but cannot identify their differences, this Lemon Lime Philodendron vs Neon Pothos guide is for you. 

Is a pothos plant the same as a philodendron?

Both the Neon Pothos and the Lemon Lime Philodendron are gorgeous, easy-to-grow houseplants. For a novice gardener, it might be challenging to distinguish the two vining plants because they look extremely similar. 

While both plants are wildly popular for their heart-shaped leaves, Lime Lemon Philodendrons possess the more heart-shaped leaves of the two. Additionally, Lemon Lime Philodendrons have thinner and softer foliage, whereas the Neon Pothos has leaves that are larger, thicker, and waxier to the touch.

Read on for more differences between the Lemon Lime Philodendron and the Neon Pothos.

1. Lemon Lime Philodendron 

The Lemon Lime Philodendron, scientifically known as Philodendron hederaceum, is a common tropical plant that originated in South America. Philodendrons first became popular as houseplants when European explorers discovered them during a voyage and brought them to England. They were then cultivated, grown, and later sent to Florida to be sold in conventional markets.

One of the reasons the Lemon Lime Philodendron became a popular decorative plant in American homes is, as already mentioned, because of its eye-catching heart-shaped leaves. Its vines can reach up to 15 feet in length, while the leaves can grow up to ten inches long in favorable conditions. The bright green-yellow color of the foliage makes a lasting impression in any indoor setting, bringing a positive impact thanks to its calming appearance.

Anyone can grow and propagate a Lemon Lime Philodendron; it is low-maintenance and effortless to grow. The plant can easily grow aerial roots through stem cuttings, making propagation a straightforward process. It is also for this reason that this species of plant is in high demand and an all-rounder among gardening enthusiasts.

2. Neon Pothos

The Neon Pothos is one of the most popular and stunning varieties of the Pothos genus. It is native to French Polynesia and thrives on islands like Moorea and Tahiti. This low-maintenance houseplant is well-known for its neon-green, heart-shaped foliage, which can easily brighten up your indoor space. Whether you are a green thumb or a novice gardener, the Neon Pothos will make a great addition to your houseplant collection, and is very easy to care for and grow.

What makes the Neon Pothos different from the Philodendrons is its slightly larger heart-shaped neon leaves. This fast-growing vine can grow up to 10 feet long. Propagating your Neon Pothos is also straightforward – simply cut a stem with a node so that it can grow aerial roots. Since the plant can adapt easily to any lighting conditions, the Neon Pothos can be a great indoor plant for a low-lit room like your living room or office.

Lemon Lime Philodendron vs Neon Pothos – the differences

While the Lemon Lime Philodendron and Neon Pothos plants look very similar at first glance, they actually carry a world of difference if you look a bit closer! So, how can we tell these differences? Check out some of the distinguishable features below:

1. Shape and texture of the leaves

Both the Pothos and the Philodendron have heart-shaped leaves. However, the Lemon Lime Philodendron has leaves that are much thinner compared to those of the Neon Pothos. You will also notice that its leaves are softer to the touch, and tend to curve inwards.

The Neon Pothos, on the other hand, has larger and thicker foliage. The leaves come with a waxier, opposite to that of the Philodendron. You can also distinguish the two plants through their leaf base: unlike the Lemon Lime Philodendron, the Neon Pothos has a relatively straight leaf base.

2. Aerial roots and growing habits

Another important difference between the Lemon Lime Philodendron and the Neon Pothos is their growing habits. Both vining plants have aerial roots so they can grow above the ground, such as on walls, rocks, and trees. These aerial roots help absorb moisture and nutrients through the atmosphere or nearby vegetation while affixing the vines to the supporting structures.

However, the Neon Pothos only has a single aerial root on each of its nodes. The Lemon Lime Philodendron, on the other hand, comes with several smaller aerial roots on each node, giving it a wilder look.

Additionally, Philodendron plants can grow quickly all year round and are not affected by changing weather conditions. Conversely, the Neon Pothos thrives better during summer and might go into a dormant state during the winter.

3. Leaf color

The Neon Pothos gives off a tropical vibe through its bright, neon green foliage. Its younger leaves tend to be brighter in color than the older leaves.

What makes the Lemon Lime Philodendron different is its lighter, more muted lime green color. Some Philodendron varieties also tend to have tints of pink or brown on the leaves, making them look wilder than the Pothos. 

4. Leaf size

Philodendron leaves can grow between seven and ten inches long. The leaves are also broader and slightly thinner than those of the Neon Pothos.

On the other hand, Neon Pothos plants tend to have flatter, less round leaves that reach about four to six inches in length. You will also notice this plant species has a flatter leaf base to easily support the plant’s foliage.

5. Vine length and growth pattern

The Neon Pothos, when grown indoors, can produce leafy vines up to ten feet long. It will take a few years for the plant to become mature and reach such a height.

Lemon Lime Philodendrons can grow fast in any season, reaching an impressive 15 feet at maturity, and regular pruning or trimming is necessary to keep them at a manageable size.

6. Growing requirements

If you prefer a highly adaptable houseplant that can grow in any area of your home, then the Neon Pothos is your best option. This versatile evergreen is best grown in hanging baskets and needs minimal attention. Although best for indoors, you can also grow your Pothos outdoors given the right growing conditions, or you can plant it in water without using potting soil. Just cut a stem and place it in a vase of water so that the cutting can grow new roots. Place the vase in indirect sunlight and change the water regularly – at least every two weeks. 

Lemon Lime Philodendrons are medium-sized plants that require regular pruning. However, unlike the Neon Pothos, these plants will not thrive in water alone, since their roots are prone to rotting – you will need a well-draining soil mix to keep them healthy and thriving. You can also propagate your Lemon Lime Philodendron easily through tip and leaf bud cuttings, and the plant makes a great tropical table decoration or an art piece on your wall. 

7. Flower production

Philodendrons need to reach maturity – about 15 to 16 years – before they can begin flowering. The Neon Pothos, on the other hand, just requires the right outdoor growing conditions to produce flowers. Unfortunately, if you prefer to grow your Pothos indoors, it is unlikely that the plant will flower.

Lemon Lime Philodendron vs Neon Pothos – the similarities

Apart from their stunning looks, you will probably not be surprised to learn that these two plants also share some similarities when it comes to growing requirements and care. These factors are described in detail below:

1. Sunlight requirements

Both plants prefer indirect sunlight to grow well. They can also tolerate shady areas, making them ideal for growing indoors. However, it is still best if you expose the plants to partial sunlight if you grow them indoors. Place them near a window where they can receive enough light to maintain their lush foliage.

2. Watering requirements

Both the Lemon Lime Philodendron and the Neon Pothos require a moist environment to thrive. Hence, you need to water these plants at least once a week, especially during hot seasons. That said, it is best to wait for the top inch of soil to dry out before watering, to prevent the chance of root rot, especially in Philodendrons.

3. Soil requirements

Both plants prefer a loose, well-draining soil mix. For best results, it is recommended to use nutrient-rich, well-aerated soil to keep your plants in top shape.

4. Temperature requirements

Both the Pothos and the Philodendron can survive in regular room temperatures. However, they will not do well with sudden fluctuations in temperature, so keep them away from air conditioners during summer or radiators during winter. 

5. Fertilizer application

Although neither plant is a heavy feeder compared with some other houseplants, they do require some fertilizer to help them grow well. Most potted plants do not have access to much organic matter, so adding natural fertilizers like peat moss helps ensure that they receive enough nutrients. It is also recommended to use a diluted fertilizer with a 3-1-2 ratio every four weeks during the plants’ growing season. Do not fertilize them during the winter season.  

6. Pests and diseases

Both the Neon Pothos and the Lemon Lime Philodendron are disease-resistant. Like most houseplants, they might occasionally be assaulted by mealybugs or spider mites, but you can easily get rid of these sap-sucking insects with neem oil or pesticides.

7. Toxicity

Any plants belonging to the Araceae family – as these two do – are considered toxic to humans and pets when consumed, so be careful about growing Neon Pothos or Lemon Lime Philodendrons if you have cats, dogs, or young children at home.

Which is better – Neon Pothos or Lemon Lime Philodendron?

Both the Neon Pothos and the Lemon Lime Philodendron are attractive vining house plants with beautiful heart-shaped leaves and vibrantly-colored foliage. But, if you are looking for a hardier plant that can grow faster and thrive in water alone, then the Neon Pothos is your best choice. 

The Lemon Lime Philodendron, on the other hand, can thrive under any weather conditions, making it the best plant to grow all year round. It is also less prone to stress when exposed to cold temperatures, unlike the Pothos.

Final thoughts

Both the Lemon Lime Philodendron and the Neon Pothos make amazing additions to your home or office decor, thanks to their lovely, heart-shaped leaves and brilliant colors. However, due to their similarities, it can be challenging for some gardeners to differentiate them. Hopefully, this short guide has given you some clear insight into the similarities and differences between these two stunning houseplants. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Akchamczuk

The Chinese evergreen, or Aglaonema, is an attractive houseplant enjoyed by both novice gardeners and experienced growers. Under the right growing conditions, this tropical plant is super easy to grow and maintain. It is also hardy, meaning it can easily tolerate poor lighting conditions, drought, and dry air.

But, if your Chinese evergreen is drooping, it means the plant has suffered some form of neglect for an extended period. Although watering issues are the most common cause, there are also numerous other reasons your plant may look droopy. If you want to return it to its normal, healthy state, then this guide is for you. 

Why is my Chinese evergreen drooping? Common causes

Seeing your Chinese evergreen drooping can be worrying, but understanding the reason behind this droopy appearance should help you correct your care regimen and bring your favorite plant back to life. 

Here are some of the common causes of the plant’s droopy leaves:

1. Inappropriate watering

Overwatering is as harmful to your Chinese evergreen as not giving it enough water.

When you water your plant excessively, the soil becomes waterlogged, causing the leaves to yellow. Standing water can also cause the plant’s roots to rot, cutting the supply of air and nutrients to the plant. If the condition continues, your Chinese evergreen will eventually turn brown, droop, and die.

Underwatering, on the other hand, causes wilting, leaf yellowing or browning, and drooping. This is because the lack of soil moisture not only causes dehydration, but inhibits nutrient uptake. Just like overwatering, underwatering can eventually cause your plant to die.

Knowing all that, it is important to water your plant consciously. The trick is to ensure that the soil is moist enough, without ever being too dry or too wet. You can do this by checking the condition of the topsoil to determine whether your plant needs a drink. Insert your finger about an inch deep into the potting mix – if it feels dry, it means your plant needs water. If the soil feels damp, it is best to withhold watering until that top layer dries out. If you are not comfortable using your finger to check the soil, you can purchase an XLUX soil moisture meter to do the job for you.

2. Too much fertilizer

While fertilizers can boost your plant’s health, applying them to excess can have detrimental effects, both on the plant and the soil. One common mistake made by many novice gardeners is applying too much fertilizer in the belief that it will make the plant grow more. However, this is hardly the case.

Overfertilization can cause a build-up of salts in the soil, leading to osmotic imbalances and plant dehydration. Over time, the plant will start to suffer from poor root structure, defoliation, browning or yellowing leaves, and drooping.

Hence, it is highly recommended that you follow the dosage instructions indicated on the fertilizer packaging. Also make sure to choose a high-quality fertilizer formulated for houseplants. If you are planting your Chinese evergreen indoors, you can apply a 20-20-20 liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks during spring and summer. Avoid fertilizing during the winter season. 

3. Dry soil

Chinese evergreens thrive in moist soil. Neglecting your plant for extended periods can lead to extreme soil dryness and cause your plant to wilt or droop. To revive it and save it from death, submerge the plant’s root in water until they are saturated. Going forward, make sure to follow a proper watering schedule to keep your plant hydrated.

4. Sudden changes in temperature

Chinese evergreens need about 64 degrees Fahrenheit for optimum growth; sudden changes in temperature can be problematic for these plants, causing their leaves to go limp and droopy.

If exposed to sudden heat, the leaves can dry out too quickly. Cold temperatures, on the other hand, can weaken the plant’s cell walls and disrupt the uptake of nutrients and fluids. Chinese evergreens are hardy and will not necessarily perish right away if the temperature drops, but the stress can cause them to droop. The solution is to keep your houseplant in an environment with enough warmth and a constant temperature.

5. Low humidity

Low levels of humidity can sometimes result in your Chinese evergreen drooping. The dry air in the environment can also eventually stunt the growth of your plant. Chinese evergreens are unlikely to succumb to this stressor, but it is important to place your languishing plant in an environment with higher humidity to bring it back to life.

6. Exposure to direct intense sunlight

The intense light of the sun can be harmful to most houseplants, including the Chinese evergreen. Although this hardy plant thrives in tropical areas, too much exposure to direct sunlight can scorch its leaves and cause a droopy appearance. The sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays can also cause its vibrant leaves to lose their color, so you might start noticing some bleached spots. 

The solution is simple – move your houseplant to a spot with partial sunlight, such as near a window. If you are growing your Chinese evergreens outdoors, move it to a shadier spot.

7. Plant diseases

Although the Chinese evergreen is resistant to common houseplant diseases, a lack of proper care can still make it vulnerable to certain diseases. For example, overwatering can attract fungal and bacterial infections, causing root rot and drooping.

Some of the most serious Chinese evergreen diseases are:

• Myrothecium and Colletotrichum, characterized by the appearance of spots and holes on the leaves during propagation.
• Curvularia, a disease that causes the plant to stretch downwards.
• Pythium, a root problem caused by overwatering.
• Fusarium stem rot, a fungal disease that causes mushy rot, stem discoloration, and wilting.

8. Pest infestation

Drooping in Chinese evergreens often occurs when certain pests have damaged the plant’s leaves and root system. You might find these tiny creatures populating the undersides of the plant’s leaves.

Insects like aphids and mites suck out the plant’s nutrients and leave poisonous by-products on the leaves. Soggy or wet soil can invite pests like mealybugs, scales, and whiteflies to take up residence on your plant, while excessive soil dryness can attract spider mites to take over.

9. Root-bound state

Keeping your Chinese evergreen in a root-bound state can lead to droopy leaves. Although many people believe this method encourages the plant to bloom, this might not always be the case. Being rootbound causes problems in nutrient uptake as the plant’s roots become dense or tangled due to the lack of sufficient space to grow.

If you do want to keep the plant rootbound to make it bloom, know that you only need it to be slightly root-bound. If the roots look too constricted or tangled, you might need to prune the unhealthy roots or upsize the pot.

10. Wrong potting mix

Just like most houseplants, Chinese evergreens need a well-draining soil mix to grow well. If you prefer not to use a standard potting mix, you can keep your plant in a container of water with added charcoal, or in plain water, and make sure to feed it every month to keep it healthy.

11. Repotting shock

Repotting can be a stressful process for your plant as it interferes with the root system and temporarily inhibits water and nutrient uptake. But do not worry – once your plant adjusts to its new pot, the drooping of the leaves should be resolved. However, you should limit the frequency of repotting to avoid problems – every three to four years should suffice. 

12. Acclimatizing to a new environment

Chinese evergreens need time to adjust to a new environment, just like any other plant or animal. So, if you have recently brought home one of these hardy plants from a shop, it is pretty normal to notice its leaves drooping or limp. In this case, give your plant enough time to adjust to its new home. Avoid moving it frequently from one location to another to prevent stress. With patience and great care, your plant should revert to its normal, healthy state.

How do I fix drooping in my Chinese evergreen?

Chinese evergreens are quite hard and easy to care for, but they are not invincible! If you are frustrated to see your plant’s drooping leaves, you need to correct your plant care routine to get your beautiful Chinese evergreen back to life. Here are some tips you can follow: 

• Avoid exposing your plant to direct sunlight as this can burn the leaves. Instead, place it somewhere with access to partial sunlight.
• Water your plant only if the top layer of soil starts to dry out.
• Make sure to water your plant just enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy, to prevent root rot.
• Limit watering your Chinese evergreen during winter, but keep it well-hydrated during its growing seasons in the spring and summer.
• It is recommended to wipe dust from the leaves with a wet cloth regularly to improve photosynthesis.
• Place your plant in an environment with good airflow.
• If your Chinese evergreen is infested with pests, spray the leaves and stems with neem oil. This natural pesticide effectively eradicates almost any type of bug without harming your plants.
• Do not expose your Chinese evergreen to cold or hot drafts.
• To keep your plant healthy and thriving, it is recommended to repot it every three to four years, or when it gets rootbound.
• Make sure to protect your plants from frost during the cold seasons – most houseplants do not do well when exposed to extremely low temperatures.
• Do not over-fertilize your plants. Use a diluted dose with the right balance of nutrients to give your Chinese evergreen a boost, and never fertilize during winter.
• Use a humidifier to maintain the humidity level in the environment at 50 percent or higher. Chinese evergreens love moisture and thrive in humid areas.

Wrapping it up

Chinese evergreen plants are some of the most popular decorative plants in offices and homes, thanks to their vibrant and colorful foliage. These plants are also hardy and disease-resistant, making them a great choice for both beginners and advanced gardeners.

Although Chinese evergreens are highly tolerant and undemanding, they also need proper growing conditions to thrive. If you notice your plant drooping, it is a clear sign that it is not receiving the right care. Thankfully, if you can spot the problem early and correct your care routine, your plant should bounce back to health in no time.

Image: istockphoto.com / Firn

Calathea is a genus of plants native to the Brazilian tropical rainforests, and has gained popularity as a houseplant in recent years. It has dark green, oval leaves run through with unique and eye-catching veins and stripes that come in several different colors, depending on the species.

If you want to grow a calathea, you will need to do some research regarding its preferred living conditions. These plants can be quite finicky about sudden changes in their surroundings, but once you have mastered the correct combination of conditions, they should grow quickly and have few problems.

In the mainland United States, it is better to grow your calathea indoors, but if you live in the southern states or Hawaii, you can easily grow them outdoors.

When it comes to the problems that calathea owners encounter, one of the most common is brown leaf tips. This discoloration can be due to several factors, but the most probable ones are too much fertilizer, poor water quality, underwatering, low humidity, too much sunlight, and cold temperatures.

In this article, we will discuss all of these causes of leaf tip browning, as well as what you can do to remedy them. Read on to learn more!

Why does my calathea have brown tips?

Too much fertilizer

Overfertilizing your calathea can cause browning of its leaf tips. This is because too much fertilizer results in a buildup of mineral salts in the soil, which causes soil toxicity and root burn.

If your plant was growing well for the first few months, and the brown tips only started appearing after you began regularly fertilizing it, then overfertilization is almost certainly the cause of your problem.

Calatheas can grow quickly, even if they are not fertilized. Unfortunately, some people still believe that all plants need to be fertilized to grow faster and denser, but this is really not true across the board. If your initial potting mix is already rich in organic components, you can forgo fertilizer altogether.

An overfertilized calathea with considerable mineral salt buildup in the soil will present with droopy leaves that have brown tips.

If you suspect that the brown tips on your plant’s leaves are caused by overfertilization, stop fertilizing it immediately. 

If you have spotted the browning in its early stages, you can get rid of the salt buildup in the soil by decreasing the number of days between waterings to slowly flush out the excess fertilizer from the soil.

If the damage to the leaves is more significant, it means that the mineral salts have been accumulating for some time. In that case, you will need to flush the soil properly as soon as possible. 

To do this, place the plant in a sink or shower and start pouring water over the soil. The volume of water that needs to pass through the soil is equal to five times the volume of the plant’s pot. After pouring the water, leave the plant in the sink for 30 minutes, and then repeat the same step three more times, leaving 30 minutes between each cycle.

After the fourth cycle, place the plant on a drying rack and let the excess water drip from the pot’s drainage holes for a few hours before placing the plant back in its usual spot.

If you really want to fertilize your calathea, do so only during the spring and summer months, when the plant is actively growing. To decrease the risk of overfertilization, dilute the fertilizer to half the dosage strength stated in the package instructions.

Do not fertilize your plant in the fall and winter, because its growth slows significantly during this time and any nutrients you add to the soil will not be consumed. Instead, they will add to the detrimental buildup of mineral salts in the soil.

It is also a good idea to make a habit of flushing the soil in your calathea’s pot every six months, as a precautionary measure.

Poor water quality

If you are giving your houseplants tap water, this can be a cause of their browning leaf tips.

Tap water in most cities contains impurities that, while not harmful to humans, can damage your plants. Chlorine and fluoride are two of the most common impurities present in tap water.

If you have been giving your calathea tap water from the beginning and have not noticed any problems until now, it can be because these elements accumulate in the soil over a long period of time, so you might not see the negative effects until after months, or even years.

Coupled with the mineral salt buildup from fertilizers, the impurities from tap water can damage the roots of your plant to the point that it also affects the leaves; hence the brown tips.

To fix browning leaf tips caused by tap water, switch to distilled water, filtered water or rainwater instead. Just like fixing an overfertilized calathea, water the plant from above with distilled, filtered or rainwater a little more frequently than normal, just until you have flushed out the chlorine, fluoride and other impurities that have built up in the soil.

Even once you no longer use tap water on your calathea, repot the plant every three to four years, during its growing season. It will be all the better for having its nutritional needs replenished with fresh soil.

Underwatering

Neglecting your plant’s watering needs causes dehydration and drought stress. There are several ways that underwatering can come about, as discussed below:

• A potting mix that is too loose and does not retain sufficient moisture will allow the soil to dry out too quickly. Because the calathea is a tropical plant, it appreciates moist soil and will become thirsty between waterings in these soil conditions. 

• If the roots of your calathea are severely damaged by root rot, or if they are injured from you digging or tilling too close to them, the remaining healthy roots might not be enough to supply the entire plant with water and nutrients. This also leaves the plant underwatered, which can manifest as browning leaf tips. 

• Likewise, if your calathea is rootbound, the roots will be so constricted that it will be difficult for water to reach the lower parts of the pot. If only the roots close to the top can get water, the bottom roots will dry out and become dehydrated.

• Still, the most likely cause of underwatering is neglecting to water your plant when you need to. You might not even be aware that you are underwatering it. For example, you may be watering it every five days during the winter and the plant is doing well, but then you forget to adjust your watering schedule when summer comes around. In the spring and summer, the soil will dry out faster, so you will naturally have to water the plant more often.

An underwatered calathea will present with dry, curling, wilted leaves, potting mix that is so dry that it crumbles in your hands, and browning of the leaf tips or even the entire leaf.

If you were able to spot the early signs of underwatering, you can just water the plant’s soil generously from above. Soak it until you can see water flowing through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, thus ensuring that all the roots have access to water.

If your plant has been deprived of water for too long, however, the soil can be so dry and compact that it has become hydrophobic, or water repellant. In this case, no matter how much water you pour over the soil, it will never seep in, instead just spilling over the edge of the pot or down the insides.

If this is the case, bottom-watering is your next step. To do this, place the pot in a shallow basin filled with about three inches of room-temperature water and leave it there for 10 to 15 minutes. The thirsty roots and soil will absorb the water through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. 

After 10 to 15 minutes, remove the pot and place it on a drying rack to let the excess water drain for a few hours before returning the plant to its usual spot.

Repeat this bottom-watering technique three to four more times, each time allowing the top two inches of soil in the pot to dry out first. After the fourth cycle, you should notice signs of recovery in your calathea and can revert to regular watering.

To avoid underwatering your plant in the future, make sure you use a potting mix that retains moisture well, while still allowing excess water to drain easily. A mixture of regular potting soil and well-draining potting mix is a good start.

If your calathea is rootbound, repot it in a larger container, or reuse the same container but prune away a significant portion of the root ball.

If a large portion of the roots have been injured or damaged, you can help them recover by removing one-quarter of the plant’s foliage so that the roots do not have to work as hard to provide for so much foliage.

Low humidity

If you keep this tropical plant in an environment with low humidity, the lack of moisture in the atmosphere can cause its leaf tips to turn brown.

When growing a calathea in your home, your aim should be to simulate the growing conditions it would have in its natural habitat. Calatheas love high humidity, so if you live in a dry climate, there is a good chance that its leaves will dry out too quickly; hence the browning tips.

The longer the plant is kept in these low humidity conditions, the drier the leaves will become, eventually curling and wilting. This can even kill the plant, eventually.

If you think your calathea is drying out from low humidity, there are measures you can take to keep it happy. 

First, you could place the plant in the bathroom or kitchen, because these are the most humid rooms in any house.

You can also place the plant’s pot on top of a tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates, it will moisten the air around the plant.

If you have other tropical houseplants that enjoy humid conditions, you can group them together with your calathea so that they all create a microclimate around each other.

Finally, if you have the means, you can take the easy route of purchasing a humidifier. This will automatically regulate the humidity levels in the room where you keep your plant, so that you do not have to worry about it drying out.

Too much sunlight

Calatheas, like most tropical plants, have evolved to grow best under bright, indirect light. When these plants are in their natural habitat, they grow close to the ground and the only light that reaches them is the dappled light that filters through the tree canopy.

If you place your calathea under direct sunlight for too many hours a day, the leaves will scorch and burn, initially presenting with yellowing tips and turning brown over time.

Your plant can get sunburned even indoors, so do not be complacent. If you place it near a south- or west-facing window, it is likely to suffer sun damage because these windows get full afternoon sun, which is when the light is at its hottest and most harmful.

If the leaf tips of your calathea are browning from too much sunlight, transfer it to a shadier spot immediately. If you keep it outdoors, choose a shady spot under a large tree or on the eastern side of your house.

If your calathea is an indoor plant, place it next to a north- or east-facing window, because these windows let in bright, gentle morning sunlight while remaining in the shade the whole afternoon.

If the only windows in your home let in very harsh light, you can still place the plant near them, but it would be a good idea to hang a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the light.

Cold temperatures

Calatheas like warm temperatures similar to those of their tropical habitat. Keep the temperature between 70 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit in the room where your plant is kept.

Calatheas are very sensitive to the cold and will get seriously damaged if exposed to temperatures of 55 degrees Fahrenheit or lower for too long.

Air-conditioning vents, cold drafts and outdoor frost can all cause a sudden temperature drop around the plant, and the stress and cold damage will manifest as browning leaf tips and edges.

The only way to prevent cold temperatures from browning your plant’s leaf tips is by keeping the plant’s preferred temperature constant, moving it away from air-conditioning vents and drafty doors or windows, and remembering to bring it indoors before the winter frost.

Conclusion

Calathea is a genus of tropical houseplants native to Brazil. It has dark green, oval leaves run through with unique stripes and veins that come in a variety of colors depending on the species.

The calathea is quite sensitive to any growing conditions that are drastically different from its natural habitat, but if you manage to simulate the environment of a Brazilian tropical rainforest, your plant will thrive.

One of the most common problems encountered by calathea owners is the browning of their plants’ leaf tips. The possible causes of this discoloration are too much fertilizer, poor water quality, incorrect watering, low humidity, too much sunlight, and cold temperatures.

Identifying the exact cause of the browning leaf tips is the first and most important step in your calathea’s recovery.

Image: istockphoto.com / Firn

The nerve plant, or Fittonia, is a popular indoor houseplant suitable for small pots, hanging baskets and terrariums. It has dark green leaves with white, red, green, or pink veins, depending on the variety. 

Fittonia is not the easiest plant to grow and care for, so research is important to make sure that you provide all of its requirements. Its natural habitat is tropical rainforests, which means it is accustomed to quite specific living conditions that may be difficult to emulate in your home. 

A common problem encountered by nerve plant owners is legginess of their plant; the possible causes of this are lack of light, seasonal changes, inadequate pruning, overfertilization, or simply the plant’s natural growth.

In this article, we will discuss each of these causes and what you can do to remedy them. So, if you are currently experiencing this problem and want to learn more, just keep reading.

Why is my nerve plant leggy?

Lack of light

Nerve plants will begin to develop leggy growth if they do not receive enough sunlight. This is more commonly observed in plants that are grown indoors.

You can tell that poor lighting is the cause of your plant’s legginess if the plant is also growing in a particular direction, rather than growing straight upward and symmetrically. It does this if it is only getting light from one side, as opposed to all sides getting equal amounts of light.

Plants cannot survive without light – it is a vital component in their process of photosynthesis. Thus, if a plant is getting very little light, in an act of self preservation it will literally stretch towards the closest source of light, hence the legginess. The lengthening of the plant’s stem will not harm the plant per se, but the continued lack of light will eventually kill it.

If your nerve plant has become leggy due to insufficient light, do not overcompensate by placing it under direct sunlight immediately. This will scorch its leaves and cause even more problems. These plants prefer indirect light, so you need to transfer your plant from its current, low light conditions to a spot where it can get the bright but indirect light it needs.

You could place it outdoors under the shade of a large tree – the dappled sunlight that filters through the leaves will simulate the light in its natural habitat. 

Alternatively, if you keep the plant indoors, place it next to a north- or east-facing window. These windows let in bright, gentle sunlight in the morning, but are in the shade during the afternoon when the sunlight is harshest.

Within a few days of relocating your leggy nerve plant, it will start growing straighter. It will also help to rotate it by 45 degrees every three or four days, in the same direction, to ensure that all sides of the plant get their time in the sun.

Seasonal changes

Your nerve plant is more likely to produce leggy growth during the winter months. This ties in with what was discussed in the previous section: there is less natural light available during the winter, hence the potential for leggy growth.

Temperature is another consideration, because this tropical plant will struggle a little in the colder fall and winter temperatures.

If your nerve plant’s legginess is caused by the low light and cold temperatures of fall or winter, you can help it out by using a grow light. Expose it to this light for five to six hours a day when natural sunlight is scarce, and make sure that the temperature in the room where you keep the plant is between 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Leave the leggy growth until the spring, and when the weather is warmer you can prune it off until you are satisfied with the shape of the plant. Pruning is best done during the warmer months because that is the plant’s active growth period, so it will have an easier time recovering from the pruning.

Inadequate pruning

The nerve plant is a proficient grower, and any legginess can be quite obvious because its leaves tend to grow only on the tops of the stems. This means that leggy stems can be completely bare, which is not the most aesthetically pleasing look for any plant.

If you do not like these long, bare stems and prefer a bushier nerve plant, just prune the stems down to the height you would like the leaves to be. Use a sterile knife or scissors to do this, so that you avoid introducing any foreign matter that could cause an infection.

After a few days, you will see new growth at the cut end of the stem and your plant will look fuller and denser in no time.

If you do not want to throw away the cuttings, you can use them to propagate the plant.

Overfertilization

Giving your nerve plant too much fertilizer will encourage it to grow a lot faster than normal, which is not good for its overall health and will lead to leggy growth. Its leaves will grow even more sparsely and the plant will look less full.

Overfertilization can also cause soil toxicity if the excess fertilizer causes a buildup of mineral salts around the plant’s roots. This can lead to serious problems, such as root burn and even death.

Use a diluted liquid fertilizer once a month during the plant’s growing season, and cut this back to once every two months during the dormant months.

If you think you have been giving your nerve plant too much fertilizer, flush the soil in the pot with water. Use a volume of water about five times that of the pot, and pour it through the soil. Repeat this step four times at 30-minute intervals. After the last cycle, let the excess water drain out for a few hours before returning the plant to its usual spot.

It is a good idea to make a habit of flushing the plant’s soil. Do it every six months as a precautionary measure, especially if you fertilize your plant on a regular basis.

Natural growth

Remember that nerve plants naturally have a tendency to grow a little leggier than some other plants. This is not due to any problem with their environment or your care routine; it is simply the way these plants grow. 

Nerve plant care

Light requirements

Nerve plants typically grow as a groundcover in their natural habitat in the tropical rainforests. That means they stay low to the ground and are constantly under the shade of tall trees. When growing this plant in your home, try to simulate these conditions by only exposing it to bright, indirect, dappled light.

Place it next to a north- or east-facing window for the ideal light source. If you live in a place where natural light can be scarce in the winter, do not be afraid to use a grow light to supplement your plant’s lighting needs.

Never place the plant under direct sunlight outdoors or directly underneath a grow light. Its leaves will get scorched in both cases.

Watering requirements

Because it is a tropical plant, your nerve plant will need to be watered more often than most other plants. It likes to have constant access to moisture, but not so much that its roots get wet feet and are at risk of root rot.

The time between waterings is not a fixed number of days; it is subject to change depending on factors like weather, season and local climate.

The easiest way to tell if your nerve plant needs to be watered is by feeling the top inch of soil in the pot. If the soil is dry, water the plant, but if it is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

Use room temperature water for your plant, because water that is too warm or too cold can shock it and damage the roots. Pour the water evenly over the soil so that all of the roots have access to moisture.

Let any excess water drain out of the pot before placing the plant back in its usual spot.

Temperature requirements

Ironically, although the nerve plant is native to the tropics, it does not do very well in hot temperatures. Remember that these plants grow close to the ground in the middle of the rainforest. This area is shady and cool because sunlight cannot reach the forest floor due to the dense tree canopy.

Nerve plants do best in temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If you do not have a thermometer, watch out for signs of temperature stress in your plant.

If the leaves and the soil seem to be drying up quickly, it might mean that your plant is exposed to temperatures that are too hot, such as from a heater or a fireplace.

If the leaves are drooping despite you doing everything else correctly, the plant might be under an air-conditioning vent or in the path of a cold draft that has entered your home through a crack in the window or door jamb.

Humidity

The nerve plant will dry out and wither if it is deprived of humidity even for a short period of time. This plant evolved to thrive in very humid tropical rainforests, and you will need to simulate this in your home if you want your plant to remain healthy.

You can mist the plant’s leaves with water from a spray bottle if the air is especially dry, but this effect is temporary and you might not always remember to mist your plant. Moreover, water droplets on the leaves can encourage the growth of fungi, so it can be a risky practice as well.

Perhaps a better alternative is a water pebble tray. Place the plant’s pot on top of the pebble tray and, as the water evaporates, it will moisten the air around the plant. Or, if you have other plants that enjoy humidity, you can place your nerve plant next to them so that together they can create a microclimate around themselves.

The bathroom and the kitchen are the two most humid rooms in a house, so placing your plant in either room can be helpful. Just make sure, if you choose the bathroom, that it still gets adequate light there.

Finally, if you have the means, you can buy a humidifier that will automatically regulate the humidity around your plant.

Potting and soil requirements

Nerve plants like a potting mix that is well-draining, able to hold some moisture, and is rich in organic components.

African violet potting mix, which is a peat-based mixture, has moisture retention properties while containing plenty of organic matter and draining excess water efficiently.

If your potting mix is too dense and holds too much water, you can add perlite or coarse sand to improve its drainage.

The pot that you choose must have drainage holes at the bottom, so that any excess water in the soil can easily drain out, thus preventing overwatering. If you place the plant on a drip tray, do not forget to empty the tray so there is never any standing water that could soak back into the soil.

Repotting is usually done every one to two years, to change the soil before it becomes depleted of nutrients. This may sound too frequent, but as the nerve plant is grown in small pots, it is not a particularly taxing process.

Fertilizer requirements

During the warmer months, fertilize your plant once a month using a diluted liquid fertilizer. Do this between waterings so that you can flush out any excess fertilizer when you water the plant, thereby preventing any buildup of mineral salts that can harm the plant’s roots.

During the winter months, you can forego fertilization altogether, but if you want to continue, do so only every two months. The nerve plant is dormant during winter and not actively growing, so the nutrients in the soil will not get used up very quickly.

Pruning your nerve plant

As they mature, nerve plants can develop long, bare stems with sparse leaves. Depending on your preference, you can cut back these longer stems or allow the plant to grow naturally.

If you want a dense and lush plant, cut off the ends of the longer stems until most are the same length. New leaves will sprout from the cut ends, giving the plant a fuller look.

If you do not want the plant to spread sideways as it grows, unpot it and prune off some of its roots before replanting it in fresh potting mix.

Pests

The nerve plant is not especially prone to pest infestation, but it can still be attacked by common pests such as gnats, aphids, spider mites and mealybugs.

These pests damage your plant by feeding on the sap from its leaves and stems. A few pests may not deal noticeable damage, but if you let the infestation go unchecked, the plant can eventually die from a sizable pest population.

You can get rid of many pests by spraying the plant with a stream of water to knock them off the foliage. Or, apply neem oil or rubbing alcohol onto a cotton pad and wipe down the affected parts of the plant with that. Repeat this method every three days until all of the pests are eradicated.

Conclusion

The nerve plant, or Fittonia, is a beautiful tropical houseplant that has dark green leaves with white, red, green, or pink veins. It is a great choice to grow in a terrarium or a hanging basket, because it grows to the sides and spills over the lip of the container.

One of the most common problems encountered by nerve plant owners is when their plant becomes leggy. This legginess can stem from a lack of light, seasonal changes, inadequate pruning, overfertilization, or simply the plant’s natural growth.

Figuring out the exact cause of the problem is the first step in resolving it and returning your plant to full health.

Image: istockphoto.com / Anastasia Babkina

The nerve plant plant, or Fittonia, is a perennial evergreen that has dark green leaves with white, green, pink or red veins, depending on the variety. It is a trailing plant and is often grown in a terrarium.

Fittonia is native to South America and does not do well in cold temperatures; if you live in a cold climate, your best option is to keep it as an indoor plant. It is also not the easiest to care for, so it might not be the best starter plant for beginner gardeners.

One of the most common problems encountered by nerve plant owners is when their plant starts drooping. This usually indicates a change in the plant’s living conditions that is causing it stress.

The possible causes of a drooping nerve plant plant include too much sunlight, incorrect soil, not enough water, too much water, low humidity, incorrect fertilization, and pests.

In this article, we will discuss each of these causes and what you can do to fix them.

Why is my nerve plant drooping?

Too much sunlight

Nerve plants are notoriously finicky when it comes to their light requirements. Your plant may be suffering from scorching if it has been exposed to too much sunlight, in which case its leaves may also be shriveled and dry. Direct sunlight will also cause the soil to dry out faster, necessitating more frequent watering.

This is a tropical plant that grows in the shade of tree canopies, meaning that it receives a lot of bright, indirect light. When you grow it at home, it is best to try to simulate this kind of light to keep your plant happy and healthy.

Nerve plants do well in north- or east-facing windows, because these typically provide the kind of indirect light that helps them thrive. If the only windows in your home are letting in harsh light, you can still place the plant there, but hang a sheer curtain over the window first to diffuse the intensity of the light.

Also do not make the mistake of keeping the plant in a poorly-lit area. If you have a colored variety and you keep it in the dark for an extended period of time, you may notice that the color fades. Too much shade can turn the colored areas white, and if it is a variety with green leaves and white veins, too much shade may cause the leaves to turn almost completely green.

If you live in a place where natural light is scarce for a few months of the year, you can use LED grow lights to supplement your plant’s light.

Incorrect soil

Nerve plants need soil that retains a lot of moisture, but that also drains excess water well. Soil composed primarily of organic matter is likely to retain a little too much water, and could thus become waterlogged. This can cause the plant to droop, and can also lead to a variety of diseases including root rot. To avoid this, ensure that you use a sufficiently well-draining soil mix.

An ideal soil mix for nerve plants is a one-to-one mix of peat, coarse sand or perlite, and organic matter. Peat retains moisture while remaining light and well aerated; coarse sand or perlite aids drainage and aeration; and compost provides nutrition while also helping to retain some moisture. Nonetheless, almost any houseplant potting mix will suffice for this plant. Commercial mixes are typically formulated to have good moisture retention while also providing adequate drainage and aeration.

Also make sure that your plant’s container has enough drainage holes to prevent any possibility of water sitting stagnant in the soil.

Not enough water

The most common reason for a nerve plant to droop is underwatering. In severe cases, you will notice its leaves becoming crispy, too. This plant’s roots require constant moisture, so it is important to provide it with enough water to maintain its lush foliage.

Water the plant when the soil’s surface begins to dry out just a little bit. Soak the soil thoroughly until water runs freely from the bottom of the container, and make sure that all of the excess water has drained from the pot.

It is important to note that your plant’s water requirements will vary, depending on several factors such as the plant’s size, pot size, and underlying growing conditions.

During the summer, when the weather is warm and your plant is growing at a faster pace, you may need to check on it more frequently than in the winter, to ensure that it does not dry out completely.

Another good idea is to use tepid water for your plant, as this will avoid any shock to the roots. Some people report that watering their plants with extremely cold water has negative effects.

Too much water

While nerve plants do not tolerate dry soil, it is equally important to remember that too much water will also be detrimental. As much as their roots enjoy moisture, they will not tolerate being submerged in water for too long.

Overwatering will eventually cause the roots to rot, and the plant’s leaves will begin to turn yellow and droop as a result. Always remember that your nerve plant prefers slightly moist soil rather than soggy soil.

Root rot is a condition wherein the plant’s roots drown and die due to prolonged exposure to soggy soil. The dead roots may also attract bacteria and fungi in the soil, which will cause the rot to become more aggressive and spread faster to the rest of the plant.

The most effective way to keep root rot at bay is to water your plant only when the top layer of soil becomes dry. Many people give their plants far more water than they actually require, so remember that control is key.

After watering, make sure to allow any excess water to drain from the pot, and check to see that water does not accumulate at the bottom of the drip tray or in an outer decorative pot, as this can also waterlog the roots.

Another reason your plant can become overwatered is if you use a pot that is way too large for the plant’s current size. In this case, a larger volume of soil will remain wet for a longer time than necessary after you water your plant, thus increasing the risk of root rot.

If you suspect root rot in your nerve plant, you will have to unpot it and inspect the roots. If there are brown or black roots, they are rotten and should be pruned off. Use a sterile pair of scissors to remove all the rotten sections until only healthy, white roots remain.

Lay the plant on a flat surface to air-dry for several hours before repotting it in a pot that has adequate drainage holes, using fresh, well-draining potting mix.

Low humidity

If the leaves of your nerve plant are withering and drooping quickly, this could be a sign that the plant is not receiving enough humidity. Leaf curling and brown tips and edges are other signs of low humidity.

Nerve plants have high humidity requirements, and levels lower than 40 percent will frequently cause problems for them. Drooping is especially common during the winter months, when homes are heated by central heating that dries out the air.

To keep track of the humidity levels in your home, you can use a digital hygrometer. Place the hygrometer near the plant and it will record the current humidity level as well as the lowest and highest levels over a predetermined period. You can then decide what measures to take to raise the humidity around the plant, if necessary, and there are several ways to do this.

If you have other humidity-loving plants, group them together so that together they create a microclimate in the space around them.

You can also place the plant’s pot on top of a tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates from the tray, it will moisten the plant’s leaves as well as the soil in the pot.

A very quick and easy way to increase the humidity is with the help of a humidifier. These do require a small amount of maintenance, but they are extremely effective.

Finally, you can opt to grow your nerve plant in a terrarium, where the semi-enclosed space and the presence of other plants will increase the humidity inside it.

Incorrect fertilization

If you do not fertilize your nerve plant correctly, it will start to droop, lose its luster and appear sickly. Overfertilizing will cause the foliage to burn and may even prove fatal.

Nerve plants rarely have problems due to under-fertilization, because most potting mixes contain nutrients to begin with, and nerve plants do not have high nutrient requirements.

You can fertilize your nerve plant once a month during spring and summer, using a balanced houseplant fertilizer. To be on the safe side, dilute the solution to half the recommended strength.

Fertilizer can accumulate in the soil over time, and you may notice mineral salts appearing on the surface of the soil and your plant beginning to look sickly as a result of this buildup. Remove excess fertilizer by flushing the soil with plenty of water every few months. If you are in any doubt, you can repot your plant in fresh potting soil.

Avoid fertilizing your nerve plant during the autumn and winter months, as it grows much more slowly and requires fewer nutrients at this time of year.

Pests

Nerve plants, like the majority of indoor plants, are susceptible to common houseplant pests such as fungus gnats, aphids, scale insects, and mealybugs. A severe infestation can prove fatal. 

Nerve plants are thought to be particularly susceptible to aphid infestations, so you should inspect your plant regularly for signs of pests. Check the tops and undersides of the leaves, as well as the soil, for any signs of disease.

If you notice pests on your plant, isolate it from the rest of your houseplants as soon as possible to prevent the bugs from spreading to other plants. For the same reason, if you purchase a new houseplant, keep it separate from your other plants for two weeks after bringing it home to ensure that no pests have made their way into your home.

Remove any badly damaged foliage from an infested plant by pruning it off with sterile scissors. You can then use rubbing alcohol or neem oil to kill the remaining pests on your plant. Place the alcohol or neem oil on a cotton pad and wipe down the affected areas. Repeat this every three days until you are sure that all of the pests are gone.

Nerve plant plant care

Light

The nerve plant naturally grows in the bright shade of tropical forests, so it prefers indoor conditions that are similar to this. The bright, indirect sunlight provided by north-facing windows is ideal, but it will also flourish under fluorescent lighting.

Soil

Nerve plants thrive in standard potting soil that has been amended with peat moss. The soil should be able to retain some moisture while also draining excess water efficiently.

Water

The nerve plant is quite sensitive to both underwatering and overwatering. Be vigilant about your watering habits and be sure to adjust them according to changes in the weather, season and climate.

The easiest way to determine whether your plant needs to be watered is to feel the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the soil is dry, water the plant, but if it is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

Temperature and humidity

Nerve plants thrive in temperatures around 70 degrees Fahrenheit, but can tolerate temperatures ranging from the low 60s to the low 80s. When it comes to humidity, they prefer moist conditions similar to those found in rainforests. Misting them on a regular basis will help to ensure that they do not dry out. It may also be beneficial to use a humidifier if you live in a dry climate, or during the dry winter months. Alternatively, a terrarium is a naturally moist environment that is ideal for this kind of plant.

Fertilizer

In the growing season, feed your plant once a month with a diluted liquid fertilizer formulated for exotic plants. A well-balanced 5-5-5 fertilizer diluted to half strength is ideal. Be careful not to give the plant too much fertilizer, because this can cause damage to the roots.

During the winter months, stop fertilizing the plant altogether.

Conclusion

The nerve plant is a trailing houseplant characterized by dark green leaves with white or colored veins. It is a perfect plant to keep indoors, either in a pot or a terrarium.

This is not the easiest plant to care for, because it can be quite sensitive to sudden changes in its living conditions. One of the most common problems encountered by nerve plant owners is when their plant starts to droop, and the most common causes of this are too much sunlight, incorrect soil, not enough water, too much water, low humidity, incorrect fertilization, and pests.

Hopefully, this article has helped you identify the cause of your nerve plant’s drooping so that you can remedy the problem and return your plant to full health.

Image: istockphoto.com / Airubon

The satin pothos is a low-maintenance vining houseplant that is very easy to grow. It is a tropical plant and does not do well in cold climates, so it is better off grown as an indoor plant in regions with four seasons.

The satin pothos is different from other pothos plants in that its leaves are dotted with a silvery variegation that make them appear to shimmer. This is one of the reasons this plant is so popular – it adds a pop of color and beauty to any room you keep it in.

The plant can be grown alongside a trellis or a pole for it to climb as it grows, or you can let it trail as a groundcover. Another option is to plant it in a hanging pot or basket and let the foliage spill over the edges.

Despite being very low-maintenance, the satin pothos does have its share of problems, one of the most common being yellowing leaves. This discoloration is due to an environmental factor that is stressing the plant, and the most likely causes are underwatering, overwatering, too much sunlight, not enough light, overfertilization, temperature extremes, low humidity, nutrient deficiency, pests, and natural aging.

In this article, we will discuss each of the causes of yellowing satin pothos leaves, as well as what you can do to resolve each issue. So, if you are currently experiencing this problem and wish to learn more about it, just keep reading.

Why are my satin pothos leaves turning yellow?

Not enough water 

Satin pothos’ natural habitat is tropical, and it must have access to sufficient water in order to carry out its physiological processes. Water and sunlight are two of the most important factors in photosynthesis, which is how the plant produces food.

When the soil becomes dry, the plant begins to conserve nutrients and energy, and this will be reflected in the leaves as they become yellow and limp after prolonged drought stress.

Their wilting and drooping is caused by an excessive loss of water, while the discoloration is due to nutrient deficiency. Because of the lack of resources during times of drought, the plant sacrifices its leaves in order to keep the stems and roots alive until the next rainfall (or watering), hence the yellowing and falling leaves.

If you think your plant is underwatered, water it immediately. Soak all of the soil in the pot generously until you can see the excess water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom.

The best way to avoid underwatering your plant is by knowing accurately when it needs watering. Check the soil’s moisture content by feeling the top two inches of soil. If they are dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Too much water

Overwatering is one of the most common causes of yellowing leaves on your satin pothos. The problem occurs as a result of poor drainage, which causes the soil in the pot to become waterlogged.

The roots of the plant will drown and start to rot if the soil is not allowed to dry out between waterings. Thus compromised, they will have difficulty absorbing water and nutrients from the soil, and the plant will slowly stop flourishing. If the problem is not addressed in time, it will start turning yellow and may eventually die.

To avoid overwatering your plant, give the soil time to dry out between waterings. As mentioned above, stick your finger into the soil to gauge its moisture level: if the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait a few days before checking again.

Also make sure that the plant’s pot has sufficient drainage holes at the bottom so that any excess water can easily flow out.

If you suspect that a significant portion of your plant’s roots may have rotted, unpot the plant and examine the roots to determine the extent of the problem. Prune away the rotten roots with sterile scissors, leaving the healthy ones alone. Repot the plant in a new container filled with fresh, well-draining soil. 

Too much sunlight

Your satin pothos will flourish in areas with bright, indirect light. This filtered light is adequate for the plant to perform photosynthesis. If it is exposed to too much direct sunlight, its leaves and stems may get scorched, and will then turn yellow and wilt.

Avoid placing the plant right next to a window, if possible. Keep it in a room that receives adequate natural sunlight that does not directly hit the plant. If the window in this room is letting in too much light, you can place a sheer curtain over it to diffuse the intensity.

If your plant has yellowing leaves due to overexposure to sunlight, simply move it to a spot that receives more indirect light. Your sunburnt plant will eventually recover and adjust to its new lighting conditions.

Not enough light

Placing your plant in a dark room can also cause yellowing of the leaves and the stems, because it will not receive sufficient light to conduct photosynthesis. This problem is frequently associated with smaller leaves and leggy or stunted growth, and is most common during the winter months when the sunlight is weaker and more limited.

To fix the problem, start by moving your plant closer to the window. If it is winter, you may be able to get away with placing it right next to the window, because the direct sunlight will not be as intense as during the summer.

If this level of light still does not seem enough to keep your plant happy, try supplementing it using a grow light.

Too much fertilizer

Pothos plants do not require a lot of food if they are grown in a good-quality potting medium, but many growers still like to fertilize their plants to stimulate growth. However, excessive fertilization can cause the plant to wilt and yellow due to an accumulation of mineral salts around the root system.

If you wish to fertilize your plant, do so approximately every two to three months, using a high-quality, well-balanced houseplant fertilizer.

If you suspect you may have overfertilized your plant, flush the soil thoroughly with water, several times, to get rid of any mineral salts that have accumulated. If the damage to the plant is severe, you may have to repot the plant and replace the soil.

Temperature extremes

Pothos plants thrive in temperatures ranging from 70 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Any temperature below 50 degrees Fahrenheit or above 90 degrees Fahrenheit will cause your plant to start yellowing. 

It will also be affected by sudden temperature fluctuations, as well as hot or cold drafts; for example, from heating vents, air conditioners, or gaps around windows and doors during winter time.

Choose a spot in your home where your plant will not be subjected to any extreme temperature fluctuations or drafts, and place it there.

Low humidity

Even if you are confident that you have nailed your watering techniques, low humidity could cause your plant’s leaves to yellow. If this is the cause, one of the most common clues is dry leaf edges before the entire leaf turns yellow.

There are some simple methods to increase the humidity in the room where you keep your plant. First, you can mist the leaves with a spray bottle a few times a week to keep them looking fresh. This also helps to get rid of any dust that may have accumulated on the leaves. Do this only in the mornings to allow enough time for the moisture to evaporate off the leaves before the afternoon sun comes out, as it can scorch wet leaves. Furthermore, if the leaves are still damp when the temperature drops at night, it increases the likelihood of leaf rot.

Another way to increase the humidity around your plant is by placing the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates from the tray, it will moisten the air around the plant.

If you are looking for a quick fix, you can rinse the leaves with water in your shower. This will also wash off any dust, as well as pests that may have been hiding there without your knowledge. Be careful not to damage the leaves or vines, though, while the plant is under the shower.

Keeping the plant in the bathroom or the kitchen also exposes it to more humidity than it would get in any other part of the house, and if you have other houseplants that like high humidity, you can group your satin pothos with them so that they create a microclimate around each other.

If you are concerned that the lack of humidity may become a serious problem, it may be best to invest in a humidifier. This is the most reliable way to increase the humidity in your home. A humidifier will automatically regulate the humidity in the room, requiring less effort on your part.

Lack of nutrients

A potting mix that contains the correct balance of trace elements is essential to help your satin pothos thrive. If you grow your plant in soil that is deficient in nitrogen, you can expect its leaves to start yellowing.

If you suspect nitrogen deficiency is the problem with your satin pothos, try applying a nitrogen-rich fertilizer.

Pests

A pest infestation can also cause yellowing leaves on your plant. This is a rare occurrence, yet still plausible. As the uninvited guests suck on the leaves, the plant will become more and more stressed and the leaves will turn yellow and fall off.

The majority of pests are visible to the human eye if you look closely or use a magnifying glass, so you can identify the problem by inspecting the leaves. Take a good, close look at the undersides of the leaves, because this is often where the pests hide.

If you identify an infestation, it is very important to isolate your plant to prevent the pests from spreading to your other, healthy plants. Prune away the most severely infested leaves and vines in order to reduce the overall population of insects and to prevent the infestation from spreading. After that, give your plant a thorough wash in the sink and treat it with rubbing alcohol or neem oil. Place the alcohol or neem oil on a cotton pad and wipe down the affected areas on the plant, repeating the process every three to four days until you are certain that all of the pests have been eradicated.

Natural aging of the plant

The yellowing of old foliage may be nothing more than the natural aging process of your satin pothos. It is normal for old leaves to turn yellow and fall off to make way for new growth.

Examine the plant to determine which leaves are turning yellow and falling off. If it is due to aging, usually only the leaves nearest the bottom of the plant will be affected.

The shedding of old foliage reduces the competition for nutrients and energy. There is nothing you need to do if this is the cause of the leaves’ yellowing; this is a completely natural process.

Conclusion

The satin pothos is a beautiful vining houseplant with heart-shaped, silver-flecked leaves. It is a tropical plant and is low-maintenance and easy to grow.

One of the most common problems encountered by satin pothos owners is the yellowing of their plant’s leaves due to one or more environmental factors that are stressing the plant. The most probable causes of this discoloration are underwatering, overwatering, too much sunlight, not enough light, too much fertilizer, temperature extremes, low humidity, lack of nutrients, pests, and natural aging.

The sooner the cause of the problem is identified, the faster the issue can be resolved and the plant saved from further damage.

Image: istockphoto.com / Benjamin Toegel

The maidenhair fern is native to North America and is one of the most popular ferns to be kept as a houseplant. It has thin black stems that produce fan-shaped leaves which are much smaller than those of most other ferns. Along with its compact size, this makes it an easy fern to grow indoors.

The maidenhair fern typically takes three or more years before it can be considered fully grown, and because it is not the hardiest of plants, it cannot be grown just anywhere outdoors.

One of the most common problems encountered by maidenhair fern owners is when their plants’ leaves turn brown, which is due to an environmental factor causing the plant stress.

The possible causes of this discoloration are temperature extremes, too much sunlight, not enough water, low humidity, incorrect soil, too much fertilizer, overcrowding, and the natural aging of the plant.

In this article, we will discuss each of these causes and what you can do to resolve them. So, if you are experiencing a similar problem and you need some guidance, just keep reading.

Why are the leaves on my maidenhair fern turning brown?

Temperature extremes

Hotspots are a common cause of brown leaves on maidenhair ferns. This occurs when your plant is located right next to a window, where the sun’s rays can dramatically increase the air temperature around the plant. If your maidenhair fern is growing too close to a radiator or heating vent, this can also result in hotspots and browning of the leaves.

Pick up a digital thermometer to keep track of temperature changes throughout the day; this will help you determine whether your plant’s brown leaves are the result of extreme temperatures.

To fix leaf browning caused by temperature extremes, all you need to do is relocate your maidenhair fern to a place in your home where the temperatures are more stable. The plant will then not dry out as quickly and the leaves should stop turning brown.

Too much sunlight

The maidenhair fern is a tropical plant with a fern-like appearance, and it prefers diffused light in the daytime. If subjected to direct sunlight, it will develop brown leaves and, if not relocated soon enough, it can die.

Maidenhair ferns can be grown in semi-shade below trees, or in a cool environment either indoors or out in the yard or garden. If you keep your plant indoors, place it next to an east-facing window. If this is not possible and the only window available lets in harsh light, hang a sheer curtain over the window before placing the plant on the windowsill. Rotate the pot a few degrees every five days so that all sides of the fern get their share of light and the plant grows symmetrically.

If you have just moved your plant to a shadier spot to remedy its browning leaves, also check the moisture of the soil in the pot: it may have dried out faster than usual if it was over-exposed to sunlight. If the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Not enough water

Another factor that can contribute to brown leaves is repeated underwatering. Because their stems and leaves are so delicate, maidenhair ferns require consistent moisture in their soil and will struggle if the potting mix becomes too dry. You need to be extremely vigilant about keeping up with their watering schedule, as their leaves can start browning very quickly.

If your maidenhair fern is suffering from a lack of water, rather than watering it generously once a week, slowly reintroduce water to the plant. Water it once a day for a week, and it should be able to recover from the dehydration.

Low humidity

A lack of humidity is usually the first thing to look for if your maidenhair fern develops brown leaves. Because the leaves are so fragile, they are more sensitive to low humidity than most other houseplants.

In the winter, when heating and reduced ventilation cause the air in our homes to become extremely dry, maidenhair ferns can have a difficult time surviving. If your plant’s leaves turn brown for this reason, do not worry; there are some very simple and inexpensive solutions that will instantly restore their freshness.

A daily misting of the leaves with water will keep them from becoming dry. Do this first thing in the morning so that the water can evaporate off the leaves throughout the day, before the temperature begins to drop in the evening. The presence of moisture in the leaves when the temperature drops can cause them to rot, which is best avoided.

Showering your maidenhair fern is another simple way to instantly increase the humidity around it and prevent its leaves from turning brown. In addition to getting rid of dust and potential pests that may be on your plant, try washing it down with water every few months, regardless of whether or not its leaves are brown. However, avoid using extremely hot or cold water when you do this, because that will shock the plant and can cause its leaves to burn. Furthermore, the water pressure should be low, because these plants have extremely delicate leaves and stems.

Keeping your plant fern in your kitchen or bathroom is a good idea, because these are the most humid rooms of a house. The steam produced from showering and cooking keeps the humidity higher than in other parts of the house.

If you have the means, you can also purchase a humidifier. This is the simplest, most convenient way to maintain a consistent humidity level around your maidenhair fern and keep its leaves from browning.

Incorrect soil

If your plant develops brown leaves, it is possible that soil quality is a factor. A slightly acidic soil that is loose, airy, yet still able to retain some moisture, is what maidenhair ferns prefer. Added media such as composted soil and peat can be used to maintain the soil’s slight acidity and water retention properties.

It is also important not to plant your maidenhair fern too deep in the soil, and there must be drainage holes at the bottom of its pot. Good drainage is essential so that if you pour too much water into the soil, any excess will simply flow out of the drainage holes. This keeps the soil from becoming waterlogged and soggy.

Too much fertilizer

You should only fertilize your plant once a month, and only during the growing season. Do not feed it during its dormant season. If you are fertilizing your plant more frequently than this, or if you are not diluting the fertilizer, this could be the reason its leaves are turning brown.

If you suspect that overfertilization is the reason for your plant’s brown leaves, you may need to flush the soil with water. Take your plant to your sink and pour water generously over all of the soil in the pot. You need to repeat this flushing process four times, at intervals of 10 to 15 minutes, each time using a volume of water four times the volume of the plant’s pot.

Overcrowding

If a maidenhair fern’s roots become overcrowded in their current container, the plant is likely to die unless you act promptly. This plant should be repotted every couple of years to ensure that it continues to thrive. If necessary, divide it by cutting between its fleshy roots, known as rhizomes, ensuring that you keep an equal number of leaves on each section that you separate.

Overcrowding occurs when a plant’s roots completely fill the pot. They will then start growing out of the drainage holes or over the top of the soil, and water will drain directly through the pot and out of the drain holes instead of soaking into the soil.

If you believe your fern is overcrowded, transplant it to a larger pot or divide it in the spring, just before new growth begins. 

Natural aging 

If your maidenhair fern develops a few brown leaves here and there, do not worry; this is completely normal. Your plant is simply getting rid of some of its older leaves so that it can focus on growing new, healthy leaves.

Since this is a naturally occurring process, there is nothing you need to do except to continue caring for the plant as usual. If you find the brown leaves distracting, you can remove them one by one using your clean fingers.

Maidenhair fern care

Light requirements

Maidenhair ferns grow in a forest environment where they are mostly shaded by a canopy of trees and receive only a small amount of direct sunlight on bright, sunny days. If you want to successfully grow this fern indoors, try to replicate these conditions by placing it in a location in your home that receives only indirect sunlight. 

Avoid using direct sunlight or harsh lighting for your maidenhair fern, because its delicate leaves are prone to burning. A lack of light, on the other hand, results in poor growth and yellowing fronds. Make an effort to find that perfect spot that receives indirect morning or afternoon sunlight, such as a north-facing window.

Soil requirements

Maidenhair ferns prefer a moist but well-draining potting mix. As previously stated, water is extremely important for this plant, so to help create the ideal environment, incorporate moss or organic matter such as compost into the soil to aid the retention of water.

Water requirements

To ensure that your thirsty maidenhair fern thrives, make sure that you water it every day or, at least, every other day. This plant likes its soil to be moist at all times but be careful not to give it too much water, because it can still become overwatered despite its love for moisture. Keep an eye out for yellow leaves, which can occur as a result of overwatering. Never allow the plant’s roots to stand in waterlogged soil; water it only when the top inch of soil is dry to the touch to maintain the degree of moisture the plant prefers.

Temperature and humidity requirements

Keep your maidenhair fern in a room where the temperature is between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. It likes humidity, and will struggle where the air is dry. If you have the means, it may be a good idea to buy a humidifier to regulate the humidity in the room where you keep your plant.

Conclusion

The Maidenhair fern is a beautiful plant native to North America. It has delicate, fan-shaped leaves that grow on thin, black stems.

Because of its compact size and delicate foliage, the maidenhair fern makes a great indoor plant. Also, it is slow-growing, so it does not need to be repotted very often.

One of the most common problems in maidenhair ferns is when their leaves turn brown. The most probable causes of this are temperature extremes, too much sunlight, not enough water, low humidity, incorrect soil, too much fertilizer, overcrowding, and natural aging.

The sooner you are able to determine the exact cause of the browning leaves, the faster you can remedy the issue and return your plant to full health.

Image: istockphoto.com / Puripat penpun

The rattlesnake plant, or Goeppertia insignis, is a tropical houseplant native to the Brazilian rainforests. It is called the rattlesnake plant because its leaves point upward in the evening but droop downward in the daytime, mimicking the movement of a rattlesnake.

The leaves of this plant have a variegated pattern of different shades of green, while the undersides of the leaves are a purplish-red hue. Their edges are typically wavy, further adding to the plant’s aesthetic.

This plant is not the easiest to care for, so beginners may have some difficulty growing it.

One of the most common problems an indoor gardener may encounter with the plant is the  leaves turning brown. This is due to an environmental factor causing the plant stress, and in order to remedy the problem, you will need to establish exactly which factor that is.

The most probable causes of browning rattlesnake plant leaves include low humidity, insufficient water, too much fertilizer, pests, and the plant’s natural aging process.

In this article, we will discuss each of these possible causes, as well as what you can do to remedy the problem. So, if you are experiencing this issue with your own rattlesnake plant, read on to learn more about it.

Why are the leaves of my rattlesnake plant turning brown?

Low humidity

Because rattlesnake plants are native to the Brazilian rainforests, they prefer a higher level of humidity than most houseplants. Ideally, they should have a humidity level of at least 50 percent. Any lower than that, and your plant will start to manifest signs of stress.

There are several signs that will help confirm that your plant is suffering due to low humidity. The most common of these is the appearance of brown tips on the plant’s leaves, with the discoloration gradually spreading throughout the leaf.

The leaves may also turn yellow, droop, and become crisp after prolonged exposure to low humidity.

Remedy

If you think your rattlesnake plant’s leaves are turning brown because of low humidity, you can use a hygrometer to measure the humidity in your home. 

Alternatively, try the ice cube method: place three ice cubes in a glass and fill the glass with water. Stir the water, then wait five minutes. If no visible moisture forms on the glass, this means the air in the room is extremely dry.

There are numerous ways to increase the room’s humidity if necessary. Misting your rattlesnake plant will temporarily moisten its foliage, but if the air is especially dry where you live, you might have to do this multiple times a day.

If  you are an avid plant collector, you can group all of your humidity-loving plants together so that they create a microclimate around each other.

You can also use a water pebble tray. Place the plant’s pot on top of a tray filled with pebbles and water; as the water evaporates from the tray, it will moisten the air around the plant.

Using a humidifier is the most effective and convenient method of increasing the humidity in a room. It can automatically regulate the humidity without saturating the air with too much moisture. If you choose this method, keep your rattlesnake plant and all of your other humidity-loving plants in the same room so that you do not have to buy multiple humidifiers.

Not enough water

If you have been neglecting to water your rattlesnake plant and the soil in its pot has dried out too much, it will suffer the symptoms of underwatering. If its leaves have turned brown and are also drooping, curling, and dry, it is most likely underwatered.

Rattlesnake plants generally require weekly watering to thrive. However, depending on the environmental conditions and the size of the plant, this frequency may vary.

Remedy

If your plant is showing signs of underwatering, check the soil’s moisture content before doing anything else.

Poke a hole in the soil with your finger; if it feels dry to the touch and no dirt sticks to your finger as you pull it out, the plant is dehydrated.

Depending on how long your soil has been dry, your treatment approach may differ slightly.

If you are a few days behind on your watering, all you have to do is give your rattlesnake plant a good soaking.

If, on the other hand, it has been a longer time since you last watered the plant, the soil may have become hydrophobic. This means that it is so dry that it is unable to absorb water from above; any water poured into the pot will simply be deflected and will drain out of the pot without coming anywhere near the plant’s dehydrated roots.

To rehydrate hydrophobic soil, you need to water from the bottom. Place the plant’s pot in a shallow basin filled with three inches of water, and leave it there to soak for 10 to 15 minutes.

The thirsty soil will absorb the water through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

After 10 to 15 minutes, remove the pot from the basin and allow any excess water to drain out before returning the plant to its usual spot. After three to four watering cycles, the plant should start to show signs of recovery.

Too much fertilizer

The rattlesnake plant can be fertilized once a month during its growing season. Fertilization is not recommended during the fall and winter, because the plant is not actively growing during these months, so it will not be using up the nutrients and minerals in its soil. If you add fertilizer at this time, it will likely cause a build-up of mineral salts that can cause soil toxicity and root burn. 

Root burn affects the roots’ ability to absorb water and nutrients from the soil, and this causes the plant’s foliage to turn brown, curl and dry out. The weakened plant will also become more vulnerable to diseases and pest infestations.

Remedy

If your rattlesnake plant is overfertilized, flushing the soil with water can help clear the mineral salt build-up.

Place the plant in the kitchen sink or in the shower and water the soil until you see excess water flowing out of the pot’s drainage holes. The volume of water you use to flush the soil should be roughly four times the volume of the plant’s pot.

After 15 minutes, pour the same volume of water into the soil again. Repeat this process every 15 minutes for a total of four cycles. After the last cycle, place the plant on a drying rack to allow all of the excess water to drain overnight.

Even if you are correctly fertilizing your plant, flushing the soil every six months as a precautionary measure can be beneficial in the long term.

Pests

If you have only recently brought your rattlesnake plant home from the store, it is possible that the browning of its leaves could be due to pests already living on the plant.

Pests such as mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites, and aphids feed on the sap in the tissues of the plant, and brown spots will appear on the areas where the pests have fed. Over time, the brown spots will begin to spread across the leaf until the entire leaf becomes brown.

Spider mites are the most common pests to infest rattlesnake plants, and they can cause significant damage to the foliage. They leave tell-tale white webbing between the plant’s leaves and stems. 

If you suspect that brown spots on your plant are caused by spider mites, you should inspect 

the undersides of the leaves. These bugs are white or reddish-brown in color, which makes  them easy to spot against the foliage if you look closely.

Remedy

The first step in pest eradication and control is to quarantine your infected plant and keep it far away from your healthy plants.

Remove the brown and damaged leaves using sterile pruning shears or scissors. There may be pest eggs on the damaged leaves you have removed, so be sure to dispose of the trimmings properly.

You can remove and kill the remaining pests by placing the plant in the shower and letting a strong stream of water wash them off.

If there are still pests left on the plant after removing it from the shower, put some neem oil or rubbing alcohol on a cotton pad and wipe down the affected areas with that. Repeat this treatment every three days until you are sure that all the pests have been eradicated.

Natural aging

Rattlesnake plants’ leaves turn yellow and eventually brown as they age, even with the best possible care and growing conditions.

During the course of its development and growth, the plant will shed some of its older leaves in order to make room for new growth. This is completely normal and is part of  the plant’s life cycle.

As long as the number of leaves that fall off the plant is not significant and there are no other signs of illness, there is little reason to be concerned.

Rattlesnake plant care

Light requirements

The best light for this plant is filtered light, as it would get in its natural habitat. If you want to put your rattlesnake plant near a window, choose one that does not let in a lot of direct afternoon sunlight, or use drapes to diffuse the strong light. A bright spot in a well-lit room away from direct sunlight is the best choice.

Soil requirements

When it comes to soil, it is important that it drains efficiently but is still able to retain some moisture. A light, sandy soil or a potting mix comprising two parts peat moss and one part perlite will work well. These plants can tolerate a slightly acidic or neutral pH, but alkaline soils should be avoided.

Water requirements

During the summer, when your rattlesnake plant is experiencing the most growth, it will require more frequent watering to keep its soil or potting mix moist. During the winter, allow the top layer of soil to dry out before watering the plant again.

Temperature and humidity requirements

Keep the temperature around your plant between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit to keep it happy. If it is exposed to temperatures hotter than 75 degrees for an extended period of time, the leaves will wilt and turn brown, and the plant will eventually die.

Also keep the plant away from air conditioning and heating systems to avoid exposing it to hot and cold drafts and dry air.

If you live in a dry climate, you can use a humidifier to regulate the humidity around your rattlesnake plant.

Fertilizer requirements

During the growing season in the spring and summer, your rattlesnake plant will appreciate a monthly feeding. The use of a well-balanced liquid fertilizer encourages the development of healthy foliage, but do not overfertilize the plant as this can cause soil toxicity and root burn.

Pests

The thick leaves of your rattlesnake plant may serve as a breeding ground for pests. Aphids, mealybugs, and spider mites are among the usual suspects to watch out for. Some pests can be found underneath the leaves, but they are small so you will need to look carefully. Treat infestations as soon as possible with rubbing alcohol or neem oil, or simply wash the insects off the leaves with a soft cloth dipped in soapy water.

Conclusion

The rattlesnake plant gets its name from its leaves that point straight upward in the evening and droop back down in the morning, similar to the movement of a rattlesnake. This plant is native to the rainforests of Brazil and can be a bit sensitive to unfavorable conditions, especially if they are significantly different to those in its natural habitat.

One of the most common problems encountered by owners of rattlesnake plants is when their plants’ leaves turn brown, which is due to one or more environmental factors causing the plant stress.

The possible causes of browning rattlesnake plant leaves are low humidity, not enough water, too much fertilizer, pests and the natural aging process of the plant.

Image: istockphoto.com / chayuth parasignha

Monstera plants are extremely popular in the United States, loved for their beautiful leaves which are split into patterns that give them a truly unique look.

In fact, these plants are so loved that the image of the leaf has become a staple of interior design, such as wallpaper, soft furnishings, and artwork.

Monstera plants are native to tropical rainforests, which means they have a specific set of preferences when it comes to their ideal living conditions.

One of the most common problems encountered by monstera owners is when their plants’ leaves turn brown. This is an indication that one or more environmental factors are causing plant stress, and you will have to determine the exact cause in order to fix the problem.

The most common causes of browning monstera leaves are not enough water, too much water, too much sunlight, temperature changes, fungal diseases, low humidity, too much fertilizer, transplant stress, and damage to the plant.

If you are currently experiencing this problem with your own monstera and want to learn how to resolve the problem, keep reading.

Why are my monstera’s leaves turning brown?

Not enough water

Thanks to its natural ability to climb and grow on tree trunks, the monstera can withstand periods without rain. Other mechanisms, such as its aerial roots, aid in the collection of moisture from the surrounding environment.

However, since soil nutrients are water-soluble, water is also an essential component of the plant’s nutrient uptake. Following the absorption of nutrients by the root system, the xylem tissue of the plant transports those nutrients to other parts of the plant.

Without water, this entire process would be impossible and the plant would be unable to carry on its normal physiological processes. In your monstera, this can cause cells in the plant’s leaves to die, making them more vulnerable to pests and diseases. 

Browning and curling monstera leaves are common signs of soil dehydration. In this case, the potting soil will be completely dry, and the pot will feel much lighter than normal. The leaves may also be drooping.

A thorough soak in water is necessary if your monstera has been chronically underwatered. Place the pot in a sink half-filled with water and allow the soil to soak up the water through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. 

Another method is to thoroughly water the pot and watch to see if the water drains through the drainage holes at the bottom. Continue to water the soil until it is completely saturated, and then only water the plant again once the top two inches of soil have dried out.

Too much water

If you notice dark brown spots on the leaves of your monstera, it is likely that you have overwatered it. Approximately 80 percent of all monstera problems are caused by overwatering, which occurs because growers have difficulty correctly estimating the precise water requirements of their plants.

Most people make the mistake of sticking to a rigid watering schedule, rather than paying attention to their plants and checking the condition of their soil. The amount of water required is determined by a number of environmental factors, which can change according to the time of year and the climate where you live.

Monsteras are not great fans of being forced to sit in wet soil. To avoid overwatering, use pots with drainage holes to ensure good drainage and chunky soil that is light and airy.

If your plant is overwatered for too long, it can develop root rot. The compromised roots will be less able to absorb nutrients and moisture from the soil, which can cause the plant to become dehydrated, resulting in browning leaves or leaf edges.

A severe case of root rot can kill your plant if left untreated.

If you suspect root rot in your monstera, you will have to remove it from its pot to check the roots. Once the plant is unpotted, remove as much soil as you can from the roots, as gently as possible – overwatered roots will be fragile and can get damaged very easily.

Inspect all of the roots and look for sections that have turned brown or black. These roots are rotten and you will have to remove them. Use a sterile knife or pruning shears to do this, until only the healthy, white roots remain.

Lay the plant on a dry surface to allow the roots to air-dry for a few hours, and half-fill a new pot with a fresh potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more potting mix. Then, place your plant in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light and good air circulation.

A simple solution to avoid overwatering your monstera in the future is to always check the soil before watering it. If you usually water your plant on a weekly basis but you find the soil is still moist on watering day, just skip the watering for that week.

Too much sunlight

Bright but indirect sunlight is ideal for your monstera. If exposed to direct sunlight, it can become sunburnt.

Plants grown in a southern room are the most likely to get sunburnt. The intense heat causes the moisture in the leaves to transpire too rapidly, drying them out. This leads to browning leaf tips initially, and the rest of the leaf eventually, the longer the plant is kept in these harsh lighting conditions.

It is not necessary to remove the brown, sunburnt leaves; they will not regenerate, but you can prune them off if you wish to maintain your monstera’s green appearance.

Place your plant near a north- or east-facing window to give it the best lighting throughout the day. If the only windows in your home let in harsh light, keep the plant five to six feet away from the window or hang a sheer curtain to help diffuse the light’s intensity.

Artificial lighting can serve as a great alternative for your monstera if you happen to live in a place where sunlight is scarce during the colder months.

Temperature changes

Monsteras are tropical plants that are accustomed to warmer climates. If you live in a place with cold winters, you will need to keep your plant comfortable in temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

A monstera that is exposed to sudden temperature changes, whether hotter or colder, can develop brown leaves due to temperature stress. The longer the plant is kept in either temperature extreme, the more damage it will suffer.

Keep your monstera away from radiators or heating vents in your home, because the heat and warm drafts can dry it out quickly. Likewise, air conditioning vents and cold drafts that filter through window and door cracks can also dry it out.

If you think your monstera’s leaves are turning brown because of temperature changes, move it to a space with a more stable temperature. Even plants that are well-adjusted to temperature changes outdoors still need to be taken indoors before the frost starts.

Leaves that are damaged from temperature stress will not revert to their vibrant green color, so if their presence bothers you, prune them off using sterile pruning shears.

Fungal diseases

Fungal diseases can also turn the leaves of your monstera brown.

One example is anthracnose, which is a fungal disease that attacks via open wounds on the plant’s surface. An infected monstera’s leaves will turn yellow and eventually brown.

Another fungal disease is eyespot, caused by the Spilocaea oleagina fungus. The first symptom of eyespot in monsteras is the presence of brown spots on the leaves that have yellow borders. There may also be reddish, white, or yellow spots on the leaves.

If you think that the browning of your monstera’s leaves is due to a fungal infection, prune off the affected leaves using sterile pruning shears.

If a leaf only has a few spots, you can forgo pruning it and treat it instead with baking soda spray. To make this, mix a teaspoon of baking soda into a quart of water and spray this solution on the affected leaves.

To prevent fungal diseases, avoid overwatering your plant and make sure the humidity around it is not too high. Fungi favor a wet, humid environment, and depriving them of this is key to disease prevention.

Low humidity

Monsteras like more humidity than most houseplants. If you live in a climate with low humidity and where the air is dry, this might be why your monstera’s leaves are turning brown. In dry climates, the plant’s leaves lose moisture more quickly and will easily turn brown because of this.

When a monstera is dehydrated because of low humidity, the symptoms will be similar to those of an underwatered plant: the edges and tips of the leaves will curl up and turn brown.

Ideally, you should try to keep the humidity in the plant’s room at around 50 to 60 percent.

If you think that the brown leaves on your monstera are due to low humidity, there are some measures you can take to help it out.

First, you can mist the plant’s leaves with water every once in a while. When done correctly, misting can be an easy solution to the problem, but it can be tricky to perfect because overdoing it can lead to fungal growth.

You can also place the plant in a humid part of the house, such as the bathroom. The damp environment of the shower instantly makes this space more humid.

You can also place the plant’s pot over a tray filled with pebbles and water, so that as the water evaporates, it can moisten the leaves as well as the soil in the plant’s pot.

If you have other plants that like humidity, try placing these close to the monstera so that they can all create a microclimate around each other.

Lastly, if you have the means, you can buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in the room where you keep your monstera.

Too much fertilizer

Overfertilization can also cause brown monstera leaves.

Too much fertilizer in the soil will cause damaging mineral salts to form around the plant’s roots. This prevents your plant from effectively absorbing nutrients and water from the soil, and the result is symptoms such as yellowing or browning leaves.

To correct overfertilization, use a large amount of water to flush the soil and remove the excess fertilizer and mineral salts. It is best to use distilled water or rainwater to do this. Keep pouring water into the pot until all of the soil is soaked, and then wait for the water to drain out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Repeat the process four more times to make sure that most of the fertilizer has been flushed out.

Flush the plant’s soil again when the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch. You are basically combining watering and flushing, so make sure not to flush the soil before the plant actually needs to be watered. Keep flushing the soil for as long as it takes for the plant to make a full recovery.

After this, avoid fertilizing your monstera for three months to give it enough time to use up any fertilizer that might still be in the soil.

Transplant stress

Monstera leaves can also turn brown because of transplant stress. This typically happens when the plant has just been brought home from the store.

Remember that the plant has been growing in the store’s nursery for months and has become accustomed to that specific set of living conditions. The moment you take the plant out of the store, it is immediately exposed to different temperatures, humidity levels, and light intensities. This is stressful for the plant, and it will need a few days to adjust to its new environment. A stressed monstera will display its discomfort through the drooping, yellowing, or browning of its leaves.

The best thing you can do in this situation is to try to simulate the plant’s ideal living conditions in your home. This will make the transition a lot easier and it should be able to bounce back to its normal vibrancy in a matter of weeks.

Damage to the plant

Physical damage to your monstera can also cause its leaves to turn brown. It may be damaged through improper handling during transport or repotting; its stems and leaves can break or tear if you are not careful.

Your pets can also damage the plant while playing near it or by intentionally destroying it out of boredom or curiosity. The same can be said about small children that may be drawn to the monstera’s foliage.

Exercise caution whenever you need to move your monstera. Try to limit physically handling the plant unless necessary, especially when it is quite young.

If you have small children or pets, keeping the plant out of their reach is not only for the plant’s safety but for that of your children and pets. Monsteras are mildly toxic to both humans and animals, so maintaining a safe distance is important.

If your monstera has broken a stem below a node, you can place this broken section in a glass of water and wait for new roots to grow from the node. You will be able to grow a whole new plant with it. If the stem breaks above a node, you cannot use it for propagation, but could still use the stem and leaf as a part of a flower arrangement in a vase.

Conclusion

Monsteras are some of the most popular houseplants in the United States, thanks to their beautiful, large leaves, patterned with uniquely pretty slits and fenestrations. They are native to tropical climates and therefore have a preferred set of living conditions that could make it difficult to grow them in a different climate.

One of the most common problems that monstera owners encounter is when the leaves of their plants turn brown. This is an indication that there is at least one environmental factor causing plant stress.

The most common causes of browning monstera leaves are insufficient watering, too much water, too much sunlight, temperature changes, fungal diseases, low humidity, too much fertilizer, transplant stress, and damage to the plant. The sooner you can pinpoint which of these is the cause of your plant’s discolored leaves, the sooner you can nurse it back to full health.

Image: istockphoto.com / twinsterphoto

Calathea Dottie is a popular tropical houseplant with dark green, oval-shaped leaves that turn more purple as the plant becomes more mature. There is a pink ring in the middle of each leaf that stands out from the deep green background, and this unique characteristic is one of the reasons this houseplant has become so popular.

In this article, we will discuss the general cultural care of a Calathea Dottie, so if you are planning to add one to your collection, keep reading to learn more about it.

Calathea Dottie care

Light requirements

Calathea Dottie prefers bright but indirect light. Excessive light can cause its markings to fade, and can also cause leaf curling and browning. Too much shade, on the other hand, will result in the markings failing to develop properly in the first place, if at all.

If you keep the plant indoors, place it next to the north or east-facing window because these let in a gentler light. If the only available windows in your home are letting in harsh light, hang a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the light’s intensity before placing your plant there.

If you live in a place where sunlight is scarce during the winter, you might have to use a grow light for your Calathea Dottie. If, while using the grow light, you notice changes similar to sun damage, you are probably keeping the light too close to the plant.

Soil requirements

The soil in your Calathea Dottie’s pot should always be slightly moist, but never completely wet. If the soil dries out completely, this is not good for the plant, and you may notice its leaves and stems beginning to droop. This means it is dehydrated and must be watered as soon as possible.

A mixture of potting soil, charcoal, orchid bark, perlite, and moss is ideal for growing a Calathea. This mixture makes a potting medium that is sufficiently well-draining to let any excess water flow out with ease, lessening the chances of harmful overwatering.

The pot you use should have drainage holes at the bottom so that even if you accidentally overwater the plant, the excess water will simply flow out and not stagnate at the bottom of the pot.

Watering requirements

It is recommended to water your Calathea Dottie once a week, but this will vary depending on its environment, including the amount of light it receives, the local weather, and the time of year.

Calathea Dottie prefers moist but not wet soil, so water it when the top inch of soil is completely dry. To quickly determine the moisture level in the soil, insert two fingers into the soil, up to an inch deep. If all of the soil still feels damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

The best water to use for any houseplant is rainwater because it does not contain the minerals that tap water does and it is also free, as opposed to distilled water that you might have to purchase. If you do not have access to rainwater or distilled water, just let tap water sit out overnight to allow the chlorine and other chemicals to dissipate, after which the water should be safe enough to use on your plant.

Water your plant more frequently during the spring and summer months, and less frequently during the winter months, because the soil dries out faster in warmer weather.

Temperature and humidity requirements

Exposure to sudden swings in temperature, or to temperature extremes, can damage your Calathea Dottie.

For example, if you heat your home throughout the day in the winter but turn off the heat at night, this sudden change may cause your plant to become stressed. Try to keep the plant in a room where the temperature is always between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

Calathea Dottie is a tropical plant from South and Central America, so to help it survive in a less humid North American climate, you might have to take some measures to help it out.

You can place the plant’s pot on top of a pebble tray filled with water so that as the water from the tray evaporates, it will moisten the plant’s leaves, as well as the soil in the pot. 

You can also keep the plant in one of the more humid rooms in your homes, such as the bathroom or the kitchen.

If you have other plants that like high humidity, place them next to your Calathea so together they can all create a microclimate around themselves.

Another option is to purchase a humidifier that will benefit a number of tropical houseplants. This will automatically regulate the humidity in the room where your plant is kept.

Fertilizer requirements

Fertilize your Calathea Dottie during its peak growth period, which is during the spring, summer, and beginning of the fall season. Avoid fertilizing it during the winter months because there will be little or no growth during this time, and your plant will not require additional nutrients.

Unused fertilizer in the soil can cause soil toxicity and root burn, which can severely damage the plant’s roots.

You can help flush out any excess fertilizer by pouring water through the soil until all of the soil is drenched and the excess water has drained out through the pot’s drainage holes. Repeat this four more times and let the dripping stop completely before placing the plant back in its usual spot.

If you need to flush the soil, do it at a time when the plant needs watering so that you do the flushing and the watering simultaneously. 

Pests and diseases

Fungus gnats can be a problem for your Calathea because they prefer a highly humid environment, just like the plant does. Despite causing no significant harm, they are unsightly and unpleasant to be around. Neem oil can be applied to the plant’s leaves to act as a natural deterrent.

Aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, and scale insects are other common pests of your Calathea Dottie. You can use neem oil or insecticidal soap to eradicate them.

Calatheas are also prone to bacterial or fungal infections because of their high humidity requirements.

Pseudomonas leaf spot is a serious disease that will leave you with no choice but to destroy your Calathea Dottie because there is currently no treatment for this bacterial infection. 

Root rot, caused by fungi that attack the roots of an overwatered Calathea Dottie, can turn the plant’s leaves yellow and stunt its growth. If you suspect root rot, remove the plant from its pot and examine the roots for brown or black root sections. These rotten roots must be removed, leaving only healthy white roots on the plant.

Dispose of the contaminated soil properly and clean the pot with soap and water. Fill the pot with fresh, well-draining soil and replant the Calathea Dottie in the middle. If you were able to remove all of the rotten roots, your plant should make a full recovery within a few weeks. 

Propagation

Water your Calathea Dottie the day before you intend to propagate it, to reduce stress and to ensure that it is well-hydrated.

The new pots should have adequate drainage holes and be big enough to accommodate the root balls of the divided sections of the parent plant. Prepare the new pots by filling them a third of the way with a well-draining potting mix.

Tip your parent Calathea plant on its side and slide it out of the pot with gentle pressure.

Gently remove as much soil as you can from the roots so that you can see the divisions easily. The natural divisions in the rootball will make it easy to separate the roots at these points. Patiently work the roots loosely with your fingers, and as you divide the plant, try your best not to break any of the roots.

Position the roots of the offspring plants into their new pots and fill the pots with more soil until all the roots are covered.

Place the new plants in a spot that gets bright, indirect light, and you can now begin caring for them as you do the parent plant.

Conclusion

Calathea Dottie is a beautiful houseplant that has dark green leaves with pink markings and purple undersides. This unique and distinct leaf coloration is one of the main reasons this plant has gained such popularity as a houseplant.

Calathea Dottie is not a particularly difficult plant to care for. It needs bright, indirect light, water when the top inch of soil is dry, well-draining soil, a temperature between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, higher-than-normal humidity, and fertilizer when it is actively growing.

Propagate this plant by separating the parent plant’s root ball into its naturally-divided sections and placing the offspring plants in new pots. You can then care for them as you would a fully-grown Calathea Dottie.

Image: istockphoto.com / Francisco Herrera

Schefflera is a genus of tropical plants also known as the umbrella plant or umbrella tree. It gets its common name from the way its leaves droop outward from a central stalk, making it appear like the plant has a bunch of umbrellas hanging from it.

Because these are tropical plants native to parts of Asia and Australia, they do not do well in colder climates. They can still be grown outdoors, however, provided you take them indoors before the first frost.

One of the most common problems encountered by Schefflera owners is when their plants’ leaves turn brown, which usually means there is an environmental factor causing the plant stress.

The most probable causes of browning Schefflera leaves are not enough water, too much water, poor drainage, low humidity, mineral buildup in the soil, overfertilization, too much sunlight, and pests.

In this article, we will discuss all these different causes, as well as how to fix each one. So, if you are currently struggling with this problem and wish to learn more, just keep reading.

Why are my Schefflera’s leaves turning brown?

Not enough water

Insufficient water can be detrimental to any plant. Although it will not die if you forget to water it occasionally, consistent underwatering will affect its health in the long run.

If you notice your Schefflera’s older leaves turning brown, there is a good chance that it is due to underwatering – the plant will prioritize new, healthy growth over older leaves when it is dehydrated.

If the plant looks dry, touch the soil in the pot; if most of the soil feels dry, simply water it generously. Keep watering until you see excess water flowing from the pot’s drainage holes.

Keep in mind, however, that you must not overcompensate by watering the plant more often than necessary, as that will lead to overwatering, which is even more damaging to the plant.

The best way to check if your Schefflera does need to be watered is by touching the top two inches of soil with your fingers. If the soil is dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Too much water

If the browning leaves on your Schefflera are also feeling somewhat mushy, overwatering is the likeliest cause.

Overwatering causes the main root system to rot, which ultimately damages the entire plant. When the roots cannot dry out between waterings, they will drown in the waterlogged soil. They then become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens, like bacteria and fungi, that cause root rot.

The plant will be unable to obtain nutrients from the soil due to its compromised roots; it will become unstable and its leaves will droop, turn brown and eventually fall off.

If you think your Schefflera is overwatered, refrain from adding any more water to the soil. Place the plant in a sunny spot with good air circulation to help the soil dry out faster, and do not water the plant again until the soil has dried out.

If you suspect root rot, unpot the plant carefully and wash off as much soil as you can from the roots. Inspect them for sections that have turned brown or black; these are rotten and will need to be removed. Use sterile scissors to prune away these rotten sections until only healthy, white roots remain.

Let the roots air-dry while you prepare the pot. You can reuse the old pot, but discard the old contaminated soil and wash the pot with soap and water. If the old pot does not have drainage holes, use a new one that does.

Fill the pot with fresh, well-draining soil, place the plant in the middle and cover the roots with more soil as needed.

Prevent overwatering in the future by knowing when your plant needs water. To do this, touch the top two inches of soil and, if the soil is dry, you can water the plant. If it is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Poor drainage

Closely related to overwatering is the problem of poor drainage. This could be due to the soil or the choice of pot. 

Water will flow more easily through the soil if you add a small amount of perlite to the mix. 

Adding a few small stones or pebbles to the bottom of your pots is another simple step that ensures the drainage holes are not clogged with soil or other loose debris.

Although clay or terracotta pots can be a little more expensive and breakable than plastic containers, the benefits of using them go far beyond their aesthetic appeal. Because the clay from which they are made is permeable, some of the moisture in your soil will be able to evaporate through the sides of the pot.

Plastic pots retain all of the moisture poured into them, but they can still be used if they have adequate drainage holes. You can even poke or drill some extra holes yourself. Drainage holes allow excess water in the soil to escape and help lessen the chances of overwatering.

Low humidity

Low humidity can contribute to the development of brown leaves on your Schefflera. 

In the absence of sufficient humidity in the air, the leaves may become limp, droop and turn dry, brown, and crispy.

Increasing the humidity around your Schefflera can be done in a number of ways, including:

• Mist the plant with water a couple of times per week. The water should be fresh and at room temperature so the plant does not get temperature shock.
• Place the Schefflera pot over a water pebble tray, so that as the water evaporates, it moistens the air around the plant.
• Place your Schefflera in the bathroom or kitchen, as these are the most humid rooms in a house.
• Use a humidifier to maintain a consistent humidity level in the room where your plant is kept. You can set it on a timer to run on a set schedule, and some even have a built-in humidity monitor that automatically adjusts to maintain the desired humidity level.

Mineral buildup in the soil

If the tips of your Schefflera’s leaves are beginning to turn brown, the plant might be experiencing the effects of a mineral salt buildup in the soil.

Sodium, chlorine, fluoride, and other minerals found in tap water can accumulate in the soil over time to form these mineral salts. The buildup can damage the roots and affect their ability to absorb water and nutrients. Eventually, the plant will weaken and the leaves will turn brown from poor health.

To minimize the presence of these minerals in the soil, use distilled or rainwater on your Schefflera. If you do not have access to either option, you can still use tap water, but leave it to stand in a covered container overnight to let the minerals dissipate.

Overfertilization

Your Schefflera does not require regular fertilization and will thrive even if it is not fed during its growing season.

If you do decide to fertilize it, however, do so no more than once a year, during the active growing season. Any more often is likely to damage the roots due to a mineral salt buildup, as discussed above.

Fix an overfertilized Schefflera by flushing its soil with water, which gets rid of the mineral salts as well as any excess fertilizer that the plant has not used up.

Pour water into the soil continuously until you can see it flowing out of the pot’s drainage holes. Let the excess water finish dripping, and then repeat the flushing process four more times.

Flush the soil like this once a week until the plant shows signs of recovery.

Too much sunlight

A Schefflera that receives excessive sunlight will also have browning leaves. 

This happens when the light is strong enough to cause the moisture in the leaves to evaporate faster than the plant can replenish it.

Schefflera thrive in medium to bright, indirect sunlight, but they can also tolerate bright direct sunlight. The amount of light they need varies depending on the season, humidity levels, and temperature, so it is best to move your plant to a shadier location during the spring or the beginning of the summer, such as under a large tree or on your porch.

Unfortunately, any brown sunburnt leaves will not return to their original green color, so if their presence bothers you, just prune them off.

Pests

Healthy Schefflera plants are highly resistant to pests, but if your plant has already been weakened by some other issue, you should be on the lookout for pest infestations.

Specific bugs, such as spider mites and mealybugs, will feed on the nutrients and moisture in your plant’s leaves, causing the leaves to become dry and discolored.

Pests reproduce and multiply quickly if not controlled. Eradicate them as soon as possible by dabbing them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or neem oil. Repeat this treatment every three days until all of the pests are gone.

Conclusion

The Schefflera, or umbrella plant, is a popular houseplant with leaves that hang downward off a central stalk, just like an umbrella. It is a tropical plant native to parts of Asia and Australia and is a relatively low-maintenance plant to care for.

One of the most common problems encountered by Schefflera owners is when their plants’ leaves turn brown. The most common causes of this are underwatering, overwatering, poor drainage, low humidity, mineral buildup in the soil, overfertilization, too much sunlight, and pests.

Image: istockphoto.com / soniabonet

The lacy tree philodendron, or Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum, is a tropical houseplant native to South America. It is characterized by large, deeply-lobed leaves that give it an almost prehistoric look. In ideal conditions, these leaves can grow up to five feet long!

It can cost a lot to buy a new lacy tree philodendron from a store, so knowing how to properly propagate it at home can be a valuable skill.

In this article, we will discuss exactly how to propagate a lacy tree philodendron, so if you are ready to grow your collection, just keep reading!

Lacy tree philodendron propagation

Propagation of the lacy tree philodendron is quite straightforward, using stem cuttings taken from the parent plant. Fortunately, this plant takes well to propagation, so even beginners will be able to do it without any problem.

Make sure that your parent plant is healthy and that it has several stems that are mature enough for cutting.

There are two ways to proceed with propagation: you can either propagate in soil or in water.

Soil propagation

Take a new pot and fill it halfway with a mixture of peat moss and sand; it should be at least two inches deep. Ensure that the organic matter is distributed evenly over the bottom of the pot.

Pour water over this mix until it flows out of the bottom of the pot, and make sure that the drainage holes are functioning properly.

Examine the stems of your lacy tree philodendron individually to see which stems have at least two nodes. Select one of these and remove it from the parent plant using sterile pruning shears. It is important that the cutting has at least two nodes, as these are where the new roots will sprout from.

Place the cut stem into the new pot by pushing it down into the soil. The nodes should be completely below the surface once you are done. Once you have successfully planted the cutting, water the soil in the pot generously.

In order to provide your cutting with a warm, moist environment in which to grow, cover it in a clear plastic bag. Do this after saturating the soil, so that the plastic locks in moisture and prevents it from drying out. Then, place your new plant where it will receive bright but indirect sunlight to ensure that it thrives.

Lightly dig around the base of the stem once or twice a week to check for new root growth. It can take anywhere from three weeks to a month for the roots to fully develop. Once they have developed nicely, you can transplant the cutting to a new container filled with more potting mix.

To achieve the best results, try to do your propagate during the spring and summer months because this is the plant’s active growing season. The pleasant weather is more conducive for plant growth and increases the chances of successful propagation.

Water propagation

For this method, make a clean cut below a node on your chosen stem. Each cutting should have two to three leaves and a couple of nodes at the time of pruning.

Place the fresh cutting in a container of tepid water, with the nodes below the surface, and place the container in an area that receives bright, indirect light. Check the cutting regularly, and make sure that none of the leaves are touching the water, as this could cause them to rot and ruin your propagation attempt.

Every week, change the water to keep it fresh. Murky or smelly water means that bacteria have begun to reproduce there, which may be harmful to your cutting.

After a couple of weeks, you should see the formation of small roots sprouting from the nodes. When the roots are one to two inches long, it is time to transfer the cutting to a pot with soil.

You can then start caring for the plant the same way you would a regular lacy tree philodendron.

Conclusion

The lacy tree philodendron is a tropical houseplant with large, lobed, prehistoric-looking leaves. These leaves can grow up to five feet long in ideal conditions.

This plant is native to the tropical regions of South America, but can easily be grown indoors in North America. Furthermore, it can be propagated really easily using stem cuttings. 

When choosing a stem to cut off, make sure to include at least two nodes. You can then choose to plant the cutting directly into the soil, or you can let it root in a glass of water first before planting it in the soil.

Image: istockphoto.com / Damocean

The satin pothos, or Scindapsus pictus, is a tropical evergreen vining houseplant related to pothos plants (Epipremnum aureum), and is one of the easiest houseplants to grow and care for

The visible difference between the satin pothos and other pothos is the variegation on the leaves. The satin pothos has heart-shaped leaves with silvery gray splotches that give them an iridescent look.

One of the most common problems encountered by satin pothos owners is when their plants’ leaves start to curl, indicating stress caused by one or more changes in the plant’s environment.

The most common causes of curling satin pothos leaves are underwatering, too much fertilizer, temperature changes, poor water quality, incorrect lighting, pests, and low humidity.

This article will discuss each of these causes and what you can do to resolve them. So, if you are having this problem with your own satin pothos, read on to learn how to fix it.

Why are the leaves of my satin pothos curling?

Underwatering

Underwatering is one of the most common causes of curling leaves on your satin pothos, and it can be easily prevented.

Water helps to keep the plant’s cells turgid and thus to preserve its structure. When the plant is dehydrated, its cells shrink, and if it is deprived of moisture for too long, its leaves will curl, wilt, and eventually die.

Plants do not need water just for the hydration it provides; water also acts as a vessel to transport nutrients and minerals from the soil to the roots of the plant. Thus, it is a lack of water as well as essential nutrients which double up to cause the curling and drying of the plant’s leaves.

If you notice curling in some of your satin pothos’ leaves, take it as your cue to check the moisture in the soil. Stick your finger into the soil and, if the soil near the bottom of the pot is dry, you might have forgotten to water your satin pothos by several days.

Water the plant immediately by soaking the soil until the excess flows out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Avoid underwatering your satin pothos again by regularly checking the soil’s moisture. If the top two inches are dry to the touch, water the plant; if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Too much fertilizer

If the satin pothos receives an excessive amount of nutrients, its leaves will begin to curl. Many people are too eager when it comes to fertilizing their plants, and ironically this overfeeding causes poor plant growth. Too much unused fertilizer turns into mineral salts in the soil, and this buildup causes soil toxicity and root burn.

Signs of an overfed satin pothos include smaller leaves, discolored foliage in a darker shade of green or yellow, and downward-curling leaf tips.

You can remedy overfertilization by flushing the soil to get rid of the excess fertilizer. Pour water into the soil until all of it is soaked and water is flowing out of the drainage holes. Wait for it to stop dripping and repeat the process again four times, making sure to allow the water to finish dripping between each cycle.

Flush the soil every couple of days until the plant has fully recovered. If, despite flushing multiple times, there is no sign of recovery, you might have to repot your plant in fresh soil.

Keep your satin pothos’ foliage and variegation looking its best by feeding it just once a month from spring to fall, with small amounts of well-diluted fertilizer.

Temperature changes

Temperature stress can also cause leaf curling in your satin pothos. When the plant is exposed to too much heat, its leaves will curl inward.

Pothos plants thrive best in temperatures between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything below or above this range will stress your plant, so try to keep it in an area where the temperature is consistent and easily controlled.

Direct sunlight should also be avoided, as it can cause leaf burn. Keep the plant in a spot that gets bright but indirect light, such as near a north- or east-facing window.

Also keep it away from heating or air conditioning vents, because the hot and cold drafts will dry out the foliage.

If you keep your plant outdoors, remember to bring it inside before the temperature drops significantly at the start of autumn.

Poor water quality

Another cause of curling leaves in your satin pothos is giving it only tap water. Tap water contains high concentrations of chlorine, sodium, and fluoride, which attach themselves to the soil when exposed to sunlight.

Over time, these substances form harmful salts around the roots, interfering with effective water and nutrient absorption. Without water and nutrients, the plant weakens, its leaves wilt and curl, and its growth is stunted.

Water your satin pothos with rain water or filtered water instead, since these do not contain chlorine, sodium, or fluoride. If you do not have access to filtered water, collect tap water and let it stand for 24 hours in a sealed container. The chlorine and fluoride will dissipate from the water and it can then be safely used on your houseplants.

Incorrect lighting

The curling of your plant’s leaves can also be due to incorrect lighting.

Pay attention to the direction in which the leaves are curling to determine whether it is getting too much or not enough light.

Too much light exposure is characterized by inward or downward curling leaves, while insufficient light will have leaves curling upward and in the direction of the nearest light source.

If your satin pothos is getting too much light, move it to a spot where it only gets bright, indirect light. If all the windows in your home let in harsh light, hang a sheer curtain over them to diffuse the intensity.

Conversely, if your satin pothos is not getting enough light, move it to a sunnier spot to resolve the problem.

You will know when the plant is receiving the proper level of light when its leaves remain uncurled, flat, and face upwards.

Pests

Pests can feed on your satin pothos and suck the juice from its foliage. This dries out the leaves and you may notice inward curling as a result.

The satin pothos is more susceptible than other pothos plants to mealybugs and spider mites. Signs of a pest infestation include brown or black spots on the leaves and vines, small webs from spider mites, and the presence of the pests themselves.

If you spot an infestation, move the plant to a different part of the house immediately to quarantine it and prevent any possible spread to your other plants.

Wipe down the plant with a cotton pad soaked in rubbing alcohol or neem oil. This treatment kills the pests and may prevent an infestation from returning. Repeat the treatment every three days until you are certain that all the pests have been eradicated.

As a preventative measure, check your satin pothos regularly for pests and clean the leaves occasionally with rubbing alcohol to keep them at bay.

Low humidity

The satin pothos is a tropical plant that enjoys humidity. If you live in a dry climate, the moisture in the plant’s leaves will evaporate at a faster rate and the leaves can therefore dry out very quickly. The drying leaves will start to curl, and this can only be resolved by increasing the humidity around the plant. 

Mist the plant with water when its leaves show signs of dehydration. Only do this during the day, so that the water droplets evaporate from the leaves’ surface before the temperature drops in the evening, otherwise, you risk encouraging fungal growth.

Group your humidity-loving plants with your satin pothos so that, as a group, they raise the humidity level around themselves. 

You can also place a water pebble tray under the plant’s pot so that as the water evaporates from the tray, it moistens the air around the plant.

Finally, if you have the means, you can buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in the room where you keep your plant.

Conclusion

The satin pothos is a beautiful, low-maintenance, tropical-vining houseplant native to Southeast Asia. 

Despite this plant being very easy to grow and care for, there are certain environmental factors that can cause its leaves to curl, which is an indication of stress. The most probable causes of this problem are underwatering, too much fertilizer, temperature changes, poor water quality, incorrect lighting, pests, and low humidity. The sooner you can identify which factor is causing the problem, the sooner you can get your satin pothos on the road to full recovery.

Image: istockphoto.com / Firn

The fiddle leaf fig, or Ficus lyrata, is a tree that can be grown as a houseplant. It has become hugely popular the world over for its large leaves that grow from thin trunks. It is often a floor plant, because it can reach heights of over 10 feet tall.

The fiddle leaf fig is native to the tropical regions of Africa and its care requirements can be challenging when grown in a different climate. One of the most common problems encountered by owners of fiddle leaf fig plants is when their leaves start to droop. Such drooping is an indication that the plant is stressed due to an environmental factor that needs addressing.

The most common causes of drooping fiddle leaf fig leaves are not enough water, too much water, not enough sunlight, under-fertilization, recent repotting, low humidity, transplant stress, chemical burns, or just normal leaf development.

In this article, we will discuss each of these causes and how to fix them. So, if you are experiencing the same problem with your own fiddle leaf fig and you wish to learn more, just keep on reading.

Why are the leaves on my fiddle leaf fig drooping?

Not enough water

If you are not giving your fiddle leaf fig the right amount of water at the right time, it will become underwatered and its leaves will droop and lose their vibrancy.

Plants need water not only for hydration, but also as a vessel to transport water-soluble minerals and nutrients from the soil into the roots. Thus, if there is no water in the soil, the plant will also be deprived of essential nutrients, which is another reason for its leaves to droop.

If you think your fiddle leaf fig is underwatered, water it immediately. Soak all of the soil in the pot until the excess water is flowing through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. 

Avoid underwatering again in the future by keeping an eye on the moisture in the soil. The best way to do this is to press your finger into the top layers of soil. If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Too much water

Overwatering happens if a plant is given too much water each time you water it, if it is watered more often than necessary, if it is planted in poorly-draining soil or a pot with no drainage holes, or if you do not adjust your watering habits to changes in the weather, season or climate.

An overwatered fiddle leaf fig will have droopy leaves because, when its roots are constantly standing in waterlogged soil, they become oxygen-deprived and lose the ability to properly absorb nutrients and minerals from the soil.

The plant will therefore weaken and its leaves will start to droop.

If the plant is overwatered for long periods of time, root rot is likely to follow. This happens when the roots essentially drown in the soggy soil, and once dead, become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens like fungi and bacteria. The pathogens make the rot more aggressive, and it will eventually spread to the entire plant and possibly kill it.

A fiddle leaf fig with root rot will have yellow or brown leaves, and the foliage will feel soft and mushy to the touch. This is because the excess water in the soil has nowhere to go, and will continue to be absorbed by the plant until its cells burst from the overload.

If you think you are overwatering your fiddle leaf fig, stop watering it immediately and place it in a sunnier spot with good air circulation to allow the soil in the pot to dry out faster.

If you suspect root rot, you have to remove the plant from its pot. Gently wash off as much soil as you can from the roots and inspect them for sections that have turned brown or black. These roots are rotten; remove them using a sterile pair of scissors until only healthy, white roots remain.

After removing the rotten roots, place the plant on a dry surface to allow the roots to air-dry for a few hours, while you prepare a new pot by filling it two-thirds with fresh potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot, cover the roots with soil, and water it until you see excess water flowing out of the drainage holes.

Place the plant in a spot where it can get lots of bright, indirect light.

The best way to avoid overwatering in the future, as with underwatering, is to check the moisture in the soil before giving the plant any water. If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

Not enough sunlight

Another reason your fiddle leaf fig’s leaves may droop is due to insufficient light. This plant likes bright, indirect sunlight, which is what it gets in its natural habitat.

The fiddle leaf fig’s leaves will become droopy when there is a lack of sunlight because they need the light in order to photosynthesize. The inability to photosynthesize will mean the plant cannot produce the chlorophyll it needs for energy, hence the drooping.

If a plant gets insufficient light for too long, it will also become etiolated, meaning that it grows in the direction of the nearest source of light, out of desperation. This leaning or stretching toward the light source causes it to grow asymmetrically, which in itself does not harm the plant, but continued light deprivation can be fatal for it. No light means no energy and no food for the plant.

If your plant is getting plenty of bright, indirect light, yet its leaves are still drooping, check if the leaves are dusty. The large leaves use their surface area to receive light, and dust can obstruct much of the light from reaching the leaf. It is therefore a good idea to wipe the dust from the leaves every once in a while.

If you think your fiddle leaf fig is not getting sufficient light, transfer it to a sunnier spot. The ideal is a north- or east-facing window, which lets in gentler light. If the only available window lets in harsh light, hang a sheer curtain over it to lessen the light’s intensity.

If you live in a place where light is scarce during the winter, you can help your plant by using a grow light.

under-fertilization

If your fiddle leaf fig has not been repotted in a long time, its drooping leaves might be due to a lack of nutrients in the soil.

Over time, and the older the plant gets, the more nutrients and minerals it will absorb from the soil, and these substances need to be replenished.

Give your plant fertilizer once a month during its active growing period during the spring and summer. In the fall and winter, only fertilize it every three months as it will not be actively growing at that time.

Keep in mind that overfertilization can cause a buildup of minerals in the soil, which leads to soil toxicity and root burn.

If you think you have given your plant too much fertilizer, you can flush the excess minerals out of the soil by letting large amounts of water flow through the potting medium. Soak the soil until you see the excess water running out of the drainage holes of the bottom of the pot, and repeat this four more times to remove the bulk of the excess fertilizer in the soil.

Flush the soil every few days until your fiddle leaf fig has fully recovered.

Recent repotting

An indoor fiddle leaf fig will occasionally need to be repotted in a bigger pot when it has outgrown its current one. It is not healthy to keep the plant in a pot that is too small for it, because the roots will start to grow around themselves which can cause complications.

In especially bad cases, water poured into the soil will no longer reach the roots at the bottom of the pot because the root mass has become too dense.

The new pot should not be too big, however, because a larger pot needs more soil to fill it. More soil means more moisture is retained, and thus overwatering and root rot are more likely to happen.

After repotting the plant, its leaves might droop. This is not a cause for concern; it is the plant’s stress response to the repotting process. Its roots have been pulled out of the soil and transferred to a new pot and soil, so naturally they will need some time to adjust to their new environment.

Give the plant some time to recover and continue caring for it as you always have. Within a few days, it should make a full recovery.

Low humidity

The fiddle leaf fig is native to the tropical regions of Africa, where it flourishes in the high humidity of the jungle. Thus, if the humidity where you keep your plant is low, one of its symptoms will be drooping leaves.

Try to maintain a humidity level between 40 and 60 percent at all times.

You can help your plant out by misting its leaves every once in a while, or place its pot on top of a tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates, it will moisten the plant’s leaves, as well as the soil in the pot.

You can also place the plant in one of the more humid rooms in your house, such as the kitchen or the bathroom.

If you have other plants in your home that also enjoy high humidity, place them close to your fiddle leaf fig so they can all create a microclimate around each other.

Finally, if you have the means, you can buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity around your plant.

Transplant stress

Another reason your fiddle leaf fig’s leaves might droop is if it has not yet adjusted to being in a new environment. If you have just brought it home from the store, for example, chances are it is still acclimatizing to the living conditions in your home.

Remember that the plant has been growing in a nursery where the living conditions are controlled and close to ideal. The moment it leaves the store, it is exposed to different temperatures, lighting and humidity. These sudden changes can be overwhelming for the plant, and this stress will manifest as droopy leaves, wilting, and even the yellowing or browning of the leaves.

This is called transplant stress and is completely normal.

Provide your plant with living conditions that are as close to ideal as possible, and give it time to adjust to its new surroundings. After a few weeks, it should have acclimatized and made a full recovery.

Chemical burns

One of the least likely causes of drooping fiddle leaf fig leaves is chemical burns, but it should be considered if all other causes have been ruled out.

Chemical burns are typically caused by concentrated pesticides applied to the plant’s foliage. To avoid these burns, use organic pesticides or home remedies rather than commercial pesticides that contain strong chemicals that might damage your plant.

If none of the organic pest control measures work, use a commercial pesticide sparingly and do not place the plant directly under sunlight after applying it.

Normal leaf development

Drooping leaves on your fiddle leaf fig might also be completely normal.

When new leaves first appear, they are weak and soft and can appear to be drooping. Over the next couple of weeks, they will become more rigid and start to look more like the plant’s mature leaves.

Also, the plant’s younger stems might have a hard time supporting such large leaves.

If this is the reason for your drooping leaves, it is nothing to worry about; it is just part of the plant’s normal leaf development.

Conclusion

The fiddle leaf fig is a popular houseplant with large, vibrantly green, fiddle-shaped leaves.

This plant is native to the tropical regions of Africa, which can make them challenging to grow in a North American climate.

One of the most common problems reported by fiddle leaf fig owners is drooping leaves, which is an indication that the plant is stressed by some or other factor in its environment. 

The most common causes of drooping fiddle leaf fig leaves are not enough water, too much water, not enough sunlight, under-fertilization, recent repotting, low humidity, transplant stress, chemical burns, or just normal leaf development.

Image: istockphoto.com / yaoinlove

The polka dot plant, or Hypoestes phyllostachya, is a popular houseplant native to Madagascar that is known for its beautifully-colored, variegated leaves.

These plants usually have pink leaves with green spots, hence their name. Other color varieties are red, white and purple. The colors can either be mottled or spotted, and the more noticeable the contrast with the deep green background color, the more striking the foliage looks.

They are usually grown as annual plants, and therefore replaced every year. This makes propagation vital in the growing process in order to continue having it in your collection every season.

In this article, we will discuss the different ways to propagate a polka dot plant. So, if you are planning on getting one of these plants and wish to learn more about proper propagation, just keep on reading.

Why would I want to propagate my polka dot plant?

Knowing how to propagate a polka dot plant is useful because the process gives you more of the same plant, essentially for free. Thus, propagating your plant allows you to increase the size of your plant collection without having to spend any money.

You can also give the new plants away as gifts to friends and family.

Furthermore, propagation can save a polka dot plant from complete death if it has been overwatered, overfertilized, or otherwise mistreated. This is done by taking the remaining healthy stems and propagating them to create new, healthy plants before it is too late.

Polka dot plants can grow quite quickly given the proper conditions, and can easily outgrow their container. Pruning them is an excellent way to control their growth, and the trimmings can be used for propagation so they will not go to waste.

How to propagate your polka dot plant

Propagation using stem cuttings

This is the most common way of propagating polka dot plants, because it is the simpler method of the two. You can grow a lot of new plants just by taking a few small cuttings. 

The part of the plant that you choose to cut should be healthy, to increase your chances of success. Avoid cutting stems with any signs of disease or pests, because these will be passed on to the new plant that grows from the cutting, if the cutting even survives.

The most important thing to include in any cutting is a node. Without this, you will have almost no chance of getting it to grow. A node is the joint of the stem from which a leaf sprouts; in the case of propagation, it is where the roots will develop.

Use a clean pair of scissors to cut off one or more stems from the plant. At least two or three nodes should be present on each cutting, so that there are a few good places for roots to grow from.

Fill a clear container with tepid water and put your cuttings in the water, making sure that the bottom third is submerged. If you submerge any more than that, the chances of rot increase.

Keep the leaves above the water so that they do not rot.

Put the container in a spot that gets bright but indirect light; intense light will damage the cuttings and stop them from growing.

While waiting for your cuttings to root, keep an eye on the water and change it as soon as it becomes murky or starts to smell. The murkiness and smell is bacteria in the water that can be detrimental to the development of the cuttings.

Fortunately, polka dot plant cuttings are very quick to grow roots, so you should be able to see two small roots coming out of the node within a few days. There is also a chance that some cuttings will sprout sooner than others. 

Once the new roots are a few inches long, the cuttings are ready to be planted in a pot of soil. The roots will be very delicate, so do not worry if some break when you plant them, but be careful that they do not completely fall apart.

Use a good quality potting mix for the cuttings, or plant them back in the parent plant’s pot to make it look fuller.

Propagation using division

It is important to note that this method is only effective if your polka dot plant is quite bushy; otherwise, your plants may appear straggly.

This method is great if you do not want to wait for new roots and leaves to grow and prefer to have multiple plants right away.

In the division method, you will separate the different offshoots of the parent plant from one another. Polka dot plant offshoots are easy to divide and this step will not be challenging, even for beginners.

The first step is to carefully lift your plant out of its pot. To avoid damaging the leaves, do not pull on them; instead, shimmy the plant out of the pot slowly and gently.

To untangle the roots, cut a few here and there while pulling the offshoots apart. Each offshoot should have roots attached – examine the roots on each one for rotten sections.

The number of new plants you want depends on you and on the size of the parent plant you choose.

Plant the offshoots in individual pots using fresh potting mix. Do not use soil from the parent plant’s pot, as it might be contaminated with bacteria or fungi.

Unlike cuttings, new polka dot plants acquired through division can immediately be cared for like fully-grown plants.

Conclusion

Polka dot plants are popular houseplants that have vibrantly-colored leaves perfect to perk up any living space.

This plant is native to Madagascar and is relatively low-maintenance – even propagating it is easy. You can either use stem cuttings to grow new plants, or divide the parent plant into offshoots and grow multiple plants instantly without waiting as long as with the stem cutting method.

Knowing how to properly propagate a plant is a useful skill because it is a way of getting new plants for free. In the case of the polka dot plant, which is an annual, it can also ensure that you continue to have it in your garden every year.

Image: istockphoto.com / Akchamczuk

Ferns are an interesting group of plants, comprising more than 10,000 different species, that do not reproduce via seed as other plants do. Instead of sexual reproduction through pollination, ferns have spores that are found on the undersides of their leaves, or fronds.

The size of ferns can range from small plants that grow well indoors, to those that are almost as tall as a tree. But, although they may vary in shape and size, their preferred living conditions are generally quite similar.

One of the most common problems encountered by fern owners is when the leaves of their plants start to turn brown. The most common causes of this discoloration are too much light, watering issues, humidity problems, excessive fertilizer application, and pot size.

In this article, we will discuss each of these causes and how you can resolve them. So, if you are currently facing this problem with your own fern and wish to learn more, just keep reading.

Why are my fern’s leaves turning brown?

Too much light

In their natural habitat, ferns grow under a forest canopy where they receive filtered light or complete shade.

They are not adapted to tolerate full sun exposure, so if your fern is exposed to too much sunlight, its leaves – or fronds – will lose moisture at a faster rate than its roots can absorb it, causing the leaves to dehydrate and turn brown and crispy.

Excessive sunlight may also reduce the humidity around your fern, as well as raising the temperature to an unfavorably high degree, both of which can contribute to the fronds turning brown and dying back.

Always keep your fern in an area that gets filtered light or shade to ensure that it remains healthy.

Remove any brown, sun-damaged fronds to help stimulate new, healthy, green growth on your plant.

Watering issues

If you notice that your fern is turning brown, one of the first things you should check is whether you are watering it too much or not enough.

Ferns like their soil to be moist but not soggy most of the time. Having completely dry soil can be stressful, so try not to let it reach this stage.

Because of their bushy shape, some types of ferns can be quite difficult to water. Try to get as close to the center of the plant as you can, so that you give it a thorough watering every time. A watering can with a long spout is very helpful – even for a very bushy fern, you should be able to direct the water exactly where you want it to go, thanks to the long spout.

Because ferns are so finicky when it comes to watering, people frequently make mistakes with them. In an attempt not to let the soil dry out, it is easy to overwater the plant instead. If you think your fern may be turning brown due to overwatering, reduce your watering frequency and keep an eye on the results to know whether this was the problem.

Humidity problems

Low humidity can cause ferns to turn brown and dry out quickly. These plants need high humidity levels to thrive, and lower levels will affect their lush, green fronds.

If you live in an arid climate, that does not mean you cannot grow ferns; there are a variety of artificial methods to increase the humidity in the room where you keep your plant.

Purchasing a small humidifier is the easiest solution. To ensure that your ferns get the humidity it needs, simply place a humidifier in the same room.

If you do not have access to a humidifier, try misting your fern on a regular basis. However, depending on how low the humidity level is in your home, this may not be sufficient to keep the fern healthy and green.

You can try placing it in areas of your home where the humidity levels are higher, such as the bathroom or the kitchen. You can also place its pot on a tray filled with water and pebbles; as the water evaporates from the tray, it will moisten the air around the plant.

Excessive fertilizer application

The use of fertilizer on ferns is permissible and, when done correctly, can support the plant’s strength and health. However, it is possible to overdo things and use more fertilizer than necessary, especially if you are a beginner.

If you give your fern too much fertilizer, the roots may become burned and the leaves will turn brown and dry out. It is therefore important to exercise caution when fertilizing your plants. 

Many houseplant fertilizers come with dosage instructions that are either too much or too strong for ferns, so it is safer to reduce the recommended strength by half. This should allow you to see some benefits without having to be concerned about the consequences of over-fertilizing.

Fertilize your fern once a month during the spring and summer, but stop completely during the fall and winter.

Pot size

Fern leaves will turn brown if the plant’s pot is too small and the roots are crowded inside it. If a fern is kept in a too-small pot for a long time, its roots will also deplete the potting soil of nutrients, and the root system will become so extensive that it consumes more water than the soil can hold.

Furthermore, small pots dry out much faster than large pots, because they contain less soil and have a lower capacity to hold moisture. The combination of less soil and more roots will result in dehydration, which is why the foliage turns brown and withers.

Your fern will do best in a pot that is as wide as it is deep; this is most suitable for a fern’s shallow but wide root system.

The best material for the pot is glazed clay, because this is a porous material that allows the soil to dry out more evenly. In contrast to impermeable plastic pots, which leave plants more susceptible to root rot and other problems, a porous pot is far less likely to cause these problems.

The pot also has to have drainage holes at the base to allow excess water to drain after watering.

High temperatures

If the temperature rises above 80 degrees Fahrenheit, your indoor fern will start to turn brown.

Ferns prefer temperatures in the 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit range, but they are able to tolerate temperatures beyond that range better than some other plants. Under hotter conditions, they will start to lose more moisture from their leaves than they can store in their roots.

In the cold winter months, when indoor heating is on and temperatures can rise significantly in the evenings, the high temperatures can become a problem and the temperature fluctuations can stress your fern.

To keep it happy, place your indoor fern in a room where the temperature is 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. The bathroom is usually the best place because it has naturally higher humidity and generally cooler temperatures than the rest of the house.

Remove any brown foliage, because it will not recover. Pruning the brown leaves encourages the growth of new, healthy, green leaves.

Conclusion

Ferns are some of the most interesting plants you can keep in your home. Unlike other plants, they reproduce by spreading their spores in their surroundings.

These plants are quite low maintenance and easy to grow, but that does not mean they do not have their fair share of problems. One of the most common problems reported by fern owners is when the leaves of their plants turn brown.

The probable causes of browning fern leaves are too much light, watering issues, humidity problems, excessive fertilization, and incorrect pot size. The sooner you can identify the precise cause of your plant’s discolored foliage, the sooner you can take action and return it to full health.

Image: istockphoto.com / Ewa Saks

Devil’s ivy is one of the most popular houseplants in the world. It is a vining plant that originated in Southeast Asia, and is also called a pothos plant, although it is not technically part of the pothos family. The most popular variety is the golden pothos, whose off-white, yellow, and green marbled patterns make it unique among houseplants.

Devil’s ivy is a favorite among plant enthusiasts because of how low-maintenance it is. It requires very little care and attention and is also very easy to propagate.

In this article, we will dive deeper into the proper cultural care of a devil’s ivy plant. So, if you are planning to add one of these to your collection, keep reading to learn more about them.

Devil’s ivy plant care

Devil’s ivy vines do not cling naturally to trellises and support like actual ivy does, but they can be trained to wind around them, giving the appearance of twining. Some specimens can grow up to 30 feet long as indoor plants, though most are kept at a much shorter and more aesthetically pleasing length. In the event that you decide to allow your plant to grow into a long vine, it can be secured on hooks so that it can trail along walls and over window frames. To prevent your vines from becoming a tangled mess, shake them out every now and then to keep them from twisting around one another.

Light requirements

Indoors, devil’s ivy prefers bright but indirect light. If exposed to insufficient light, variegated plants may lose their leaf pattern and revert to having only green foliage. The variegation is usually restored once the plant is moved to brighter conditions. 

If you are growing your plant in a place where natural light is scarce, you can help it out by using a grow light so that it still gets the light that it needs every day.

The sudden appearance of pale-looking leaves indicates that the plant is receiving too much sunlight. If this happens, transfer your plant to a spot where it can get more diffused light to keep the leaves from getting scorched.

Soil requirements

Devil’s ivy plants do well in any type of potting soil, as long as it drains well. They can also thrive in soil ranging from neutral to acidic pH.

Make sure that your chosen pot has drainage holes at the bottom so that any excess water in the soil can simply flow out, thereby decreasing the chances of overwatering.

Water requirements

Devil’s ivy prefers its soil to dry out completely between waterings; its roots will rot if they are left in a constantly moist environment. You will know your plant is overwatered if there are black spots on the stems nearest to the soil. This could mean that the roots have already rotted and soon the rest of the plant will, too. 

To avoid overwatering, only water the plant when the top two inches of soil have dried out.

Conversely, if the plant has been without water for too long, it will begin to droop and wilt and the edges of its leaves will curl and turn brown. In order to avoid such dehydration, check the moisture in the plant’s soil regularly by touching it.

If the top two inches of soil are dry, you may water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking the soil again.

Temperature and humidity requirements

Devil’s ivy thrives in temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It can survive outdoors, but be mindful to take it indoors once the temperature starts to drop in the fall. Then, keep the plant inside the house until spring when it can be taken back outside in the warmer weather.

This plant loves high humidity, so placing it in a humid area of your homes, such as the kitchen or bathroom, will benefit it. You can also place it next to other humidity-loving plants so that they create a microclimate around each other.

A pebble tray filled with water can also be helpful when it comes to keeping the humidity raised. Place the plant on top of the pebble tray and, as the water evaporates from the tray, it will moisten the leaves and the soil in the pot.

Devil’s ivy is more tolerant of low humidity than other tropical plants, so you may not need to purchase a humidifier unless the humidity where you live is particularly low.

Fertilizer requirements

Devil’s ivy does not require frequent feeding. However, if its potting soil is low in nutrients, you can supplement the plant’s needs by feeding it once – or possibly up to twice – per month with any balanced houseplant fertilizer.

Just make sure that you do not overfeed your plant because this can lead to soil toxicity and root burn.

Diseases and pests

Common diseases that can affect the devil’s ivy are caused by bacteria or fungi. Root rot and leaf spots can even kill the plant if not resolved in time.

The best way to prevent pathogens from taking over your plant is by avoiding overwatering: root rot is more likely to occur when the roots are damaged and weakened, and fungi thrive in damp environments.

Devil’s ivy is susceptible to a variety of pests, but infestations are extremely rare. 

Mealybugs and spider mites are among the pests that are most commonly observed.

When you first see signs of an infestation, move the affected plant to a different part of the house to quarantine it from your other plants.

To get rid of the pests, you can place the plant under the shower and let a steady stream of water knock them off.

Alternatively, a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol or neem oil will easily kill and eradicate the pests when the affected areas are treated. Repeat the application of rubbing alcohol or neem oil every three days until you are sure that all of the pests are gone. 

Devil’s ivy propagation

When propagating your devil’s ivy, you will need a pair of sterile scissors, clear glass containers, water, pots and well-draining potting soil.

From your parent plant, select a vine that has several nodes on it. Untangle the vine and lay it out on a flat surface, then cut it into individual cuttings, making sure that each cutting has at least one node. It is important to retain the nodes because this is where the new roots will grow.

You can also root the whole stem, but this can take a long time and often results in a plant that is difficult to transplant into the ground after spending a long time in the water.

Fill your containers halfway with water and submerge the cuttings so that the cut ends are completely submerged in the water. Do not submerge any leaves.

Place the containers in a warm, bright location and wait for them to establish roots. Check on them every couple of days, and replace the water when it starts to smell or become murky. 

Keep the devil’s ivy cuttings submerged in water until they have at least one inch of root growth. Keep in mind that the longer the roots are submerged in water, the more difficult it will be for them to adapt to a new environment. Not all the cuttings will be ready at the same time, so you can plant those that are ready while letting the others grow out their roots a little longer.

Fill a pot about two-thirds of the way full with fresh potting soil. Take your cuttings and begin arranging them around the edges of the pot, adding more soil as needed to keep them in position and to completely cover the roots. Plant the next cuttings in the middle of the pot, and so on until all of the cuttings have been planted.

Place the pot in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light, and water it only when the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch.

Conclusion

Devil’s ivy is a beautiful vining houseplant that is low maintenance and a perfect starter plant for someone who is just getting into gardening.

This plant’s needs are fairly simple: indirect light, well-draining soil, water when the top two inches of soil are dry, temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, high humidity, and minimal feeding.

You can propagate your devil’s ivy using stem cuttings. Let the cuttings root in a glass of water and replant them as soon as their roots are an inch long.

Image: istockphoto.com / Robi_J

Asparagus fern is a common name used for several different species of plants belonging to the Asparagus genus. Even though they are different species, they share many of the same characteristics, such as their delicate, green, feather-like foliage that can make a living space feel as though it is in the middle of a forest.

Contrary to its name, the asparagus fern is not actually a fern but a perennial plant that is more closely related to the asparagus that we eat.

In their natural habitat, in South Africa, asparagus ferns are low-growing, spreading plants, but as they have grown in popularity worldwide, most people choose to plant them in hanging containers and let their foliage spill over the edges.

As with all houseplants, asparagus ferns suffer their share of problems, a common one being browning foliage. If your asparagus is turning brown, the most likely causes of the discoloration are underwatering, overwatering, low humidity, insufficient light, excessive light, temperature changes, or natural aging.

In this article, we will discuss the different causes of a browning asparagus plant, and what you can do to fix the problem.

Why is my asparagus fern turning brown?

Underwatering

The asparagus fern is tolerant of the occasional underwatering, but if you neglect to water it constantly, it can cause the plant to turn brown.

If it does not get the water it needs to survive, your asparagus fern will not only lose moisture from its cells; it will also become nutrient deficient. Plants need water to transport essential nutrients from the soil into their roots and throughout the rest of the plant. Thus, both the dehydration and the lack of nutrients will contribute to the weakening and browning of the plant’s foliage. If the issue is not resolved in time, the affected foliage will fall off and the plant may even die.

If you think that your asparagus fern has been underwatered, first confirm your suspicions before taking any measures to save the plant. Touch the top two inches of soil in the pot to feel if they are dry. If the soil is bone dry and crumbly, the plant is most likely dehydrated.

To fix your underwatered asparagus fern, it is best to water it from the bottom. Place the pot in a shallow basin filled with three inches of tepid water and leave it there for 10 to 15 minutes. The thirsty soil and roots will absorb the water through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

After 10 to 15 minutes, remove the pot from the basin and place it on a drying rack to allow the excess water to drain before placing the plant back in its usual spot.

Although it may be tempting, do not overcompensate for your underwatering. The plant is better off being eased back to full rehydration than overly soaked with water from the outset. Remember that the roots are probably weak and stressed from being deprived of water for so long, so the last thing they need is to be overwhelmed with a deluge.

For seven days, give the plant a little water, gradually increasing the volume each day. After the seventh day, the soil should be appropriately moist and you can then return to your regular watering schedule.

The best way to avoid underwatering in the future is to check the soil regularly. If the top two inches of soil are dry, that is your cue to water the plant; if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again. 

Overwatering

While underwatering is bad for your asparagus fern, overwatering can have even more damaging consequences, starting with browning foliage.

When the plant’s soil is constantly waterlogged, the roots will never get to dry out between waterings. This means they will not have access to oxygen, which is as vital to them as it is to us, and they will eventually drown. It goes without saying that dead roots will not absorb water and nutrients from the soil, with dire repercussions for the entire plant.

Once the roots are dead and decomposing from root rot, the foliage will follow by turning brown and drooping.

If you manage to catch the overwatering in its early stages, all you will need to do is to stop watering the plant and place it somewhere sunny, with good airflow. The heat from the sunlight and the air circulation will help dry out the soil in the pot as fast as possible.

If you suspect the plant has already developed root rot, you will need to unpot it and wash the soil from its roots to inspect them. Do this gently, so as not to do any more damage to the already fragile roots.

Inspect all of the roots closely, looking for sections that have turned brown or black. These roots are rotten; remove them using a sterile pair of scissors, until only the healthy, white roots remain. If there is any brown foliage, remove that, too.

Let the plant’s roots air-dry on a flat surface for a few hours after pruning them. Once they have dried, choose a new pot with drainage holes and fill it halfway with fresh, well-draining potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots completely with more soil.

Do not water the plant immediately after repotting it; wait a week to give the roots enough time to recover from the trauma of repotting.

Avoid overwatering your asparagus fern in the future by knowing when it actually needs to be watered. Using the same method as to avoid underwatering, touch the top two inches of soil in the pot to check whether they are dry before you water your plant. If the soil is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking the moisture level again.

Low humidity

If you keep your asparagus fern indoors, the air may be a bit too dry for it. This can cause its foliage to dry out faster than it should, resulting in browning.

The dry indoor air is usually due to air-conditioning or central heating. If the plant is exposed to this low humidity for a prolonged period, its needles will start to fall off.

To give your plant a little more humidity, you can mist the foliage with water from a spray bottle a few times a week. This will help alleviate the dryness of its foliage. Mist it in the early morning, so that the water droplets have time to dry out over the course of the day. If you mist it at night, the foliage might remain wet until morning, which increases the chances of fungal growth and rotting.

Another method you can try is to place the plant’s pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates from the tray, it will moisten the air around it.

You can also keep your plant in the kitchen or the bathroom, as these are the most humid rooms in your house.

If you have other humidity-loving plants, place the asparagus fern close to them so that together they can create a microclimate around each other.

Finally, if you have the means, you can purchase a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

Insufficient light

If your asparagus fern is kept in low light conditions, this can also cause it to turn brown.

Plants need light in order to photosynthesize – the process by which they create their own food and energy. Photosynthesis also allows plants to create more chlorophyll, which is the pigment that gives plants their green color.

So, if your asparagus fern is too far away from a window or other light source, it will start to become paler in color, weaken, and develop stunted growth. Eventually, its foliage will droop and turn brown from the lack of necessary resources.

If your asparagus fern is turning brown because of insufficient light, you can fix the problem by moving the plant closer to a light source. Ideally, place it near a north- or east-facing window, because these let in bright, gentle light in the morning, while being in the shade for the afternoon.

If you live in a place where sunlight is scarce in the winter time, you can use a grow light as an alternative until spring arrives and the sunlight is sufficient again.

Excessive light

The asparagus fern needs bright, indirect light, and direct sunlight can scorch its foliage and turn it brown. The intense light and heat of full sun will dry out the foliage in a matter of hours, especially during the summer. If you do not resolve this problem in time, the plant’s needles will start to fall out.

If you suspect that overexposure to sunlight is the reason your asparagus fern is turning brown, move it to a shadier spot immediately. If it is outdoors, move it under a large tree so it is only exposed to the dappled sunlight that filters through the tree’s branches.

If you keep the plant indoors, move it a little further away from the closest window, or try hanging a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the light’s intensity.

You can cut off the burnt foliage with sterile scissors if you find it aesthetically unappealing. Otherwise, just wait for it to fall off over time.

Usually, a sun damaged plant will also be dehydrated, because the sun’s heat will dry out the soil very quickly, too. Check the moisture in your plant’s soil and water it if needed, as you would an underwatered asparagus fern.

Temperature changes

The asparagus fern is native to South Africa, so it likes its temperature fairly warm – ideally between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. If you expose it to temperatures lower than 55 degrees for extended periods of time, either by leaving it out in the winter cold, placing it under an air-conditioning vent, or keeping it near a drafty door or window, the low temperature will stress and shock the plant and its foliage will turn brown.

Being in a cold room also makes the soil dry out more slowly, which can increase the risk of overwatering and root rot.

If you think that temperature changes are causing the browning of your asparagus fern, try using a thermometer to monitor the temperature in the room where you keep your plant. Keep it away from air-conditioning vents and drafty doors and windows, and if you keep it outdoors, make sure to bring it in before the frost starts.

Natural aging

If you have ruled out all of the other possible reasons for your asparagus fern turning brown, it might simply be the plant’s natural aging process.

Like all plants, the asparagus fern sheds its old foliage to make room for new growth. It has limited resources, so it will naturally get rid of its older foliage to focus its energy on growing new leaves.

You can tell when the browning is due to natural aging, because it will be the leaves nearest the base of the plant that are turning brown. Often the browning happens just one leaf at a time, as opposed to all the other causes, where almost all of the foliage turns brown at the same time.

There is nothing you need to do in this situation, since the plant is probably completely healthy. If the brown foliage bothers you and you cannot wait for it to fall off on its own, you can always prune it off with sterile scissors.

Conclusion

The asparagus fern is a perennial plant native to South Africa that has extremely delicate, feather-like foliage. It is actually not a fern at all, despite its name, and is more closely related to edible asparagus than to ferns.

When grown indoors, this plant gives your living space the feel of a forest. It is often grown in hanging containers, because its branches spill so beautifully over the edges.

As with all plants, however, the asparagus fern is prone to certain problems, one of which is browning foliage. The possible causes of this are underwatering, overwatering, low humidity, insufficient light, excessive light, temperature changes, and natural aging.

Once you have established exactly which of these is causing your asparagus fern to turn brown, you will be able to take the correct measure to restore it to health as soon as possible.

Image: istockphoto.com / GOLFX

Calathea orbifolia is one of the largest calathea species, and is native to Bolivia in South America.

This plant has large, round, dark green leaves with silvery striped markings on their top sides.

Like most calatheas, its natural habitat is the tropical rainforests. This means that when it is grown as a houseplant in the United States, certain adjustments and compromises need to be made in order to provide living conditions that will help it stay healthy and thrive.

One of the most common problems encountered by Calathea orbifolia owners is when their plant starts drooping.

The possible causes of this problem are too much water, not enough water, dust on the leaves, lack of humidity, the plant being rootbound, and transplant or repotting stress.

In this article, we will discuss each of these causes, as well as what you can do to remedy them.

Why is my Calathea orbifolia drooping?

Too much water

Overwatering is a common cause of drooping in this plant. This can happen from giving the plant too much water every time you water it, watering it too frequently, using poorly-draining soil and pots, or not adjusting your watering habits to changes in the weather, season or climate.

No matter the reason, all of these actions have the same result: your plant’s roots will be constantly standing in waterlogged soil.

When there is too much water in the soil, all of the air pockets are eliminated and the roots cannot absorb oxygen. They will therefore drown and die. Opportunistic pathogens will attack the decomposing roots, making the rot spread more aggressively until it consumes all of the roots.

The compromised roots lose their ability to transfer water and nutrients to the rest of the plant, and this lack of water and essential substances will weaken the plant and cause it to droop.

You can tell that a Calathea orbifolia is overwatered if its leaves are drooping and turning yellow. If you think this has happened with your plant, refrain from watering it immediately and move it to a sunnier spot with good airflow to help dry the soil out faster.

If you suspect root rot, remove the plant from its pot and wash the soil from its roots.

Inspect all of the roots, looking for sections that are brown or black in color. These roots are rotten; use a sterile pair of scissors to prune them off until only the healthy white roots remain.

Let the plant air-dry for a few hours before replanting it in fresh, well-draining potting mix in a pot with adequate drainage holes.

The best way to prevent overwatering in the future is by only watering the plant when the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch. If the soil is still damp, wait one or two days and then check it again.

Not enough water

Any situation that leads to your plant’s soil being completely depleted of moisture, such as neglecting to water it in time or using a potting mix that does not retain sufficient moisture, can cause the plant to dehydrate and droop.

Plants use water as a vessel to transport essential nutrients from the soil into their roots.

Thus, if the soil around the roots is dry, not only will the plant’s cells lose turgidity from the lack of moisture; it will also become nutrient-deficient.

The drooping of its leaves is the plant adapting to this lack of resources: it is choosing to sacrifice its leaves to save its stems and roots.

An underwatered Calathea orbifolia will present with dry, brown, crispy, curling leaves. The soil in the pot will be bone dry and crumbly. Try touching the soil through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot: if the soil down there is just as dry as the soil on the surface, then your Calathea orbifolia is definitely dehydrated.

If you were able to spot the early signs of underwatering, your remedy may be as simple as giving the soil a generous soak from above. Water the soil until excess water flows from the pot’s drainage holes.

However, if the soil is so dry that it has become hydrophobic, or water repellent, watering from above is not going to cut it. You will need to bottom water your plant. Place it in a shallow basin filled with three inches of water and leave it there for 10 to 15 minutes. This will allow the thirsty soil and roots to absorb water through the pot’s drainage holes.

After 10 to 15 minutes, remove the pot and place it on a drying rack to let the excess water drip out before returning the plant to its usual spot.

Repeat this bottom watering process for the next four watering cycles and your dehydrated plant should make a full recovery.

Dirty leaves

Because Calathea orbifolia has rather large leaves, dirt and dust can settle on their surfaces and affect the plant’s ability to transpire, even possibly increasing their temperature.

The plant will lose moisture much faster and its roots might not be able to absorb water fast enough to compensate, in which case the leaves will droop.

To prevent your plant’s leaves from drooping due to increased temperature and transpiration, you will need to clean the leaves regularly. Use a damp cloth to wipe them down once a week, or at least every two weeks.

Hold the leaf over your open palm as you wipe it; this will reduce the risk of injuring the stem.

Adding neem oil to the  damp cloth will help deter pests, so you can protect the plant at the same time as cleaning it.

Lack of humidity

Calathea orbifolia is a tropical plant that has evolved to flourish in the humid conditions of the South American rainforests. Its lush foliage is maintained by the high moisture content in its atmosphere.

If you live in a dry climate or if the plant is indoors during the winter when the air is quite dry, it will lose moisture faster than it should, and this will cause it to droop.

The signs of a Calathea orbifolia suffering from low humidity are very similar to the signs of underwatering. It will also present with brown, crispy, curling and drooping leaves.

To confirm that low humidity is the culprit, you can use a hygrometer to get an actual reading of the humidity level in the room where your plant is kept.

To help your plant, you will need to keep the room’s humidity level at 60 percent or higher.

To do this, you can place the pot on top of a tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates, the air around the plant will be moistened. 

You can also keep the plant in the kitchen or the bathroom, because these are the most humid rooms in a house. 

If you have other plants that also enjoy humidity, place your Calathea orbifolia next to them so that they create a microclimate around each other.

Finally, if you have the means, the easiest way to monitor and regulate the humidity around the plant is by using a humidifier.

The plant may be rootbound

If you do not repot your Calathea orbifolia for several years, its roots can get overgrown and fill the entire pot, growing in circles until they literally take on the shape of the pot.

When there is no more room for new roots to grow, they will start to displace more and more of the soil from the pot, so that the water you pour from above may not even make it down to the roots at the bottom.

Due to the general lack of water and nutrients, the plant’s leaves will begin to weaken and droop.

A rootbound Calathea orbifolia will initially look like it is simply underwatered, but if it also exhibits stunted growth and has roots growing out of the pot’s drainage holes, then it is most likely rootbound.

To confirm your suspicion, remove the plant from its pot and, if what you remove is mostly roots and little soil, your Calathea orbifolia has been rootbound for some time.

To save the plant, repot it in a bigger pot to accommodate all of its roots. Another alternative is to divide the plant carefully, making sure that each cutting has sufficient roots and stems. Plant these divided cuttings in their own pots and you have not only saved your plant, but you now have multiple Calathea orbifolia plants!

Transplant or repotting stress

When you transfer your plant from the ground into a pot, or when you repot it in a bigger pot, you are subjecting it to stress.

No matter how careful you are in removing the plant from its old potting medium, uprooting is a traumatic experience for any plant and there will always be damage to the roots – noticeable or otherwise.

If the damage to the roots is extensive, their ability to absorb water and nutrients can be affected. A significant loss of root function will mean that the remaining roots will need to work harder to provide moisture and nutrition to all of the plant’s foliage.

If the roots cannot fully support these needs, the plant will start to droop and lose its turgor.

The best you can do for a newly transplanted or repotted Calathea orbifolia is to give it the best possible care as it recovers. Be patient, and it will bounce back as soon as its roots have had time to heal and adjust to the new soil and pot.

Do not fertilize the plant immediately after repotting it, as the salts in the fertilizer can burn the roots and cause even more problems.

As long as you water the plant correctly and expose it to the right kind of light, it should make a full recovery within a month.

Conclusion

Calathea orbifolia is a beautiful tropical plant native to Bolivia. It has large, round, dark green leaves with silvery stripes running through them.

Drooping is one of the most common problems encountered when growing Calathea orbifolia as a houseplant. The possible causes of this include too much water, not enough water, dust on the leaves, lack of humidity, the plant being rootbound, and transplant or repotting stress.

The best way to avoid all of these problems is by doing your best to simulate the plant’s native living conditions in your own home. If you manage to do this, your Calathea orbifolia should always be healthy and thriving.

Image: istockphoto.com / Benoitbruchez

The arrowhead plant is native to Central and South America, but has gained popularity in the United States because of how easy it is to grow as a houseplant. It is a great choice for novice gardeners looking for an unchallenging first plant to care for.

This plant gets its name from the arrow-like shape of its younger leaves. This initial shape becomes more lobed as the leaf matures. The leaves come in various colors, depending on the species: they can be pink, light green, dark green or white.

One of the most common problems encountered by arrowhead plant owners is when their plants’ leaves turn brown. This is usually as a result of a change in the plant’s environment that is causing the plant stress.

The possible causes of browning arrowhead leaves are insufficient or too much water, too much sunlight, not enough light, low humidity, overfertilization, and incorrect soil.

In this article, we will discuss each of these causes and what you can do to fix them. So, if you are facing a similar issue and wish to learn more, just keep reading!

Why are my arrowhead plant’s leaves turning brown?

Not enough water

The arrowhead plant’s natural habitat is tropical rainforests, where it never runs out of moisture because the environment is so humid. Being adapted to such conditions, it cannot survive long periods without water, and almost immediately presents with symptoms of drought stress if you neglect to water it.

Plants need water not only for moisture, but because it acts as a vessel to transport nutrients from the soil into the roots. If the plant is deprived of these vital nutrients, it will start to weaken and droop. It will prioritize the health of its roots and sacrifice the leaves by cutting them off from the limited remaining resources. This is why the leaves of an underwatered plant turn brown and wilt.

If you do not water the plant in time, it will eventually die.

If you think your arrowhead plant is underwatered, give it a generous soak as soon as possible. Keep pouring water into the soil until you can see excess water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This means that all of the roots have had access to water.

Sometimes, the soil in the pot may have dried out so much that it becomes hydrophobic, or water-repellant. In this case, even if you pour water over the soil from above, the water will not be able to penetrate the soil and will instead spill over the edge or down the insides of the pot without reaching the plant’s roots.

If this is the case, bottom watering is the better option. Place the plant in a shallow basin filled with three inches of water, and leave it there for 10 to 15 minutes. The thirsty soil and roots will absorb the water through the pot’s drainage holes until the soil is saturated.

After 10 to 15 minutes, remove the plant from the basin and place it on a drying rack to allow the excess water to drip out for several hours. When there is no more water dripping out, you can return the plant to its usual spot.

Wait for the top two inches of soil to dry out; then repeat the bottom watering technique. Do this for another four watering cycles. The plant should show signs of recovery from drought stress after two to three weeks.

The best way to prevent underwatering is by knowing exactly when your plant actually needs watering. Do this by sticking your finger about two inches into the soil: if it is dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait a few days before checking again.

Too much water

Overwatering can arise from giving the plant too much water per watering, watering more often than necessary, using poorly-draining soil or pots, or not adjusting your watering habits to changes in the weather, season and climate.

Overwatering is a common problem in houseplants because many plant owners are a bit too enthusiastic when it comes to watering. They do not always realize how detrimental this practice can be. All of the scenarios mentioned above will result in the soil around the plant’s roots to become waterlogged.

Compromised roots can no longer function properly, and will not be able to absorb the required nutrients for the plant. This means the foliage will discolor and turn brown.

The roots of the arrowhead plant do like moist soil, but they also need to be able to dry out between waterings so that they can have access to oxygen. Constant submersion in water will drown and kill them.

Once dead, the roots will start to rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens like fungi and bacteria. These pathogens will make the rot spread more aggressively through the plant, until all of the roots and the rest of the plant are affected. If you are unable to catch root rot in time, the plant will eventually succumb to the disease.

If you think your arrowhead plant has been overwatered, refrain from watering it immediately and transfer it to a sunnier spot with good airflow. The warmth from the sunlight and the airflow will help to dry the soil out faster.

Do not water the plant again until the top two inches of soil are completely dry to the touch.

If you suspect root rot, you will need to remove the plant from its pot to confirm this. After unpotting it, wash off as much soil from the roots as you can. Do this gently, because the roots will be fragile and you do not want to cause them even more damage.

Inspect all the roots for black or brown sections – these are rotten and will have to be removed. Use a sterile knife or scissors to prune them away until only the healthy, white roots remain.

After pruning it, place the plant on a dry, flat surface to let the roots air-dry for a few hours.

Fill a new pot a third of the way with a well-draining potting mix, place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more potting mix.

Do not water the plant yet; wait at least one week before watering it to give the roots time to recover from the trauma of the pruning and repotting process.

Prevent overwatering in the future by developing better watering habits and using pots that have drainage holes at the bottom.

Too much sunlight

The arrowhead plant does not like being left under direct sunlight. It is native to tropical rainforests where it only gets the dappled sunlight that filters through the tree canopy.

If the plant is exposed to too much direct sunlight, its leaves will turn brown and wilt. This is because the higher-than-ideal temperature will speed the plant’s rate of transpiration, leaving the foliage depleted of moisture.

If your plant is getting too much direct light, transfer it to a shadier spot as soon as you can. If you keep it outdoors, place it under a large tree.

If indoors, transfer it to a north- or east-facing window, as these windows will let in bright, gentle sunlight in the morning, but shade in the afternoon when the sun is at its harshest.

If the only windows in your home are letting in harsh light, you can still place the arrowhead plant near them, but place a sheer curtain over the window first to diffuse the light.

You cannot reverse the browning of your plant’s leaves; the damage is permanent.

If the aesthetic of these leaves bothers you, you can prune them off using a sterile pair of scissors. If you do not mind them, then just leave them alone and they will fall off in their own time.

Not enough light

Some people may misunderstand the concept of indirect light and take it to mean that the plant should be kept in low light conditions at all times. This is not true, of course, and insufficient light can also be a reason for the plant’s leaves to turn brown.

If it is kept in a room with too little light, the plant will be unable to perform photosynthesis, which is a plant’s way of harnessing energy from the sun. The pigment, chlorophyll, absorbs light waves from sunlight and stores the energy in cells called chloroplasts until the plant needs to use it.

Thus, without light, the plant has no energy for its continued survival and will no longer be able to produce its own food. No new chlorophyll is produced, causing the plant’s leaves to become paler in color. The more depleted of resources the plant becomes, the weaker and droopier it will be. The older leaves will be the first to lose access to the dwindling resources, which is why they turn brown in color.

A plant deprived of light will also grow leggy as it stretches toward the nearest light source. The leggy stem will be much thinner and longer than normal, and its leaves also smaller than the others. This is the plant’s last-ditch effort to concentrate what little energy it has to grow toward the light, just to keep alive.

If you can see these long stems, your plant has been in poor lighting for a long time and you need to act fast to save it.

If the plant’s leaves are turning brown from insufficient light, find a north- or east-facing window in your home and place it there. If the soil is dry, water it generously. Remove the wilted, brown leaves with sterile if you want to.

Rotate the pot 45 degrees clockwise every four days so that all sides of the plant get some time in the light. This will help the plant grow straight and symmetrically.

Low humidity

Coming from the tropical rainforests, the arrowhead plant is used to a humid environment and will not grow well in a dry climate. The dry air sucks the moisture from its foliage, dehydrating and damaging it.

Low humidity can turn the tips of the arrowhead leaves brown. If this low humidity is constant, the leaves will start to shrivel and droop.

If you live in a drier climate, there are some measures you can take to increase the humidity around your arrowhead plant.

First, you can mist the plant’s leaves with water using a spray bottle. This is helpful, but its effects are very short-lived. Furthermore, the water droplets on the leaves can increase the risk of fungal growth, which is an even bigger problem.

Another good idea is to use a water pebble tray. Place the plant’s pot on top of the pebble tray and, as the water evaporates, it will moisten the leaves as well as the soil in the pot.

If you have other plants that enjoy humidity, place your arrowhead plant near them and let them create a microclimate around each other.

When it comes to the ideal placement in your home, the bathroom and the kitchen are two of the most humid rooms in the house. You can place your plant in either of those rooms, but do make sure that enough light gets into the chosen room.

If you have the means, you can buy a humidifier to easily regulate and maintain the humidity level in the room where the plant is kept. Having a device to keep the humidity between 40 and 60 percent is a blessing for a busy plant owner.

Too much fertilizer

Fertilizing your arrowhead plant can be beneficial if you want it to grow quickly. This is best done in the spring and summer, when the plant is actively growing, and once a month during this period should suffice.

In the colder months, fertilizer is not necessary because the plant is not actively growing, so the nutrients in the soil are more than enough during this time.

If you fertilize your arrowhead plant too much or too often, it can do severe damage to the plant. The excess, unused fertilizer in the soil will turn into mineral salts that will build up around the roots, resulting in soil toxicity and root burn. Root burn causes defective roots and the plant’s ability to absorb water and nutrients will be compromised. Its leaves will present with brown tips and edges and the roots will turn yellow or brown – quite different from their normal white color.

If you think that the browning of your plant’s leaves is due to overfertilization, you need to flush the soil with water to get rid of the buildup of mineral salts. Pour a volume of water into the soil that is equal to five times the volume of the pot. After flushing the soil, wait 30 minutes before repeating the process, and do this a total of four times at 30-minute intervals.

When you are done with the fourth flushing, leave the plant on a drying rack to let the excess water drip out for a few hours before placing it back in its usual spot.

Refrain from fertilizing the plant for a month after flushing while you observe its recovery.

If it does not look like it has improved even after flushing, you might need to repot it and replace the soil with fresh potting mix.

If you fertilize your plant regularly, you can incorporate flushing into your routine as a preventative measure. Flushing the soil once every six months should be enough.

If you use liquid houseplant fertilizer, dilute it to half-strength to be on the safe side.

Incorrect soil

The arrowhead plant likes soil that retains some moisture. Its roots should be in a moist, but not soggy, environment at all times. When it grows in its natural habitat, the ground is never completely dry and this should be simulated in the conditions you provide in your home.

If you use a potting mix that is too loose and drains too fast, the plant’s roots may not have enough moisture to last until the next time the plant gets watered.

In this case, the plant will present with symptoms of drought stress. It will become more and more dehydrated and soon the leaves will wither, dry up and turn brown.

If you are using the wrong soil for your arrowhead plant, you will need to replace it with a potting mix that contains more organic components. Try not to use soil that has too much coarse sand or perlite, because these components loosen the mix a bit too much.

Conclusion

The aptly-named arrowhead plant gets its name from the arrowhead-shape of its younger leaves. It is a popular houseplant originating from Central and South American tropical rainforests.

This low-maintenance plant has leaves that can be pink, light green, dark green or white, depending on the species. It is a great choice for novice gardeners who do not want a difficult plant to care for.

One of the most common problems encountered by arrowhead plant owners is the browning of their plants’ leaves. The possible causes of this are not enough or too much water, too much sunlight, not enough light, low humidity, overfertilization, and incorrect soil.

Correctly identifying the exact cause of the browning is the first step toward rectifying the problem and returning your plant to full health.

Image: istockphoto.com / Firn

The prickly pear cactus has more than one hundred different species across North and South America. These cacti are characterized by flat, club-shaped pads that have either small barbs or long spines, depending on the species.

With so many species of prickly pear cactus, you can even find some that can survive in USDA hardiness zone 4 regions.

Being a succulent, the prickly pear cactus can absorb and store a significant volume of water in its body for use in the event of drought. This means it can survive long periods without being watered, but the same attribute also makes it very susceptible to overwatering. Constant and prolonged overwatering can cause root rot and even death for these plants.

In this article, we will discuss the signs of an overwatered prickly pear cactus, as well as how you can remedy the situation and save your plant. If you are currently faced with this problem and need some guidance on how to proceed, then keep reading.

What are the signs of an overwatered prickly pear cactus?

Cacti are extremely low-maintenance and, because they have adapted to the desert climate, can survive on very small amounts of water. Thus, many people end up killing their cacti by being too generous with their watering.

Furthermore, an overwatered cactus can often plump up and appear to grow, giving the impression that it is happy and healthy, when in reality the roots have been damaged and the plant will soon show signs of distress.

It is critical to keep an eye out for signs of overwatering so that you can correct it as soon as possible. If the problem is caught early enough, it may just be a matter of reducing your watering to rescue your cactus from certain death.

The signs to look out for are discussed below.

Pale color

A cactus that has been overwatered may become dull green in color. It may also turn yellow as a result of chlorosis. Chlorosis is the yellowing of foliage due to a plant’s inability to produce chlorophyll, which is the pigment that gives plants their green color. If the plant’s roots are compromised and it is no longer able to absorb nutrients from the soil, its ability to photosynthesize and produce chlorophyll will be impacted, and it may also experience stunted growth.

Brown spots

Root rot can be identified by the presence of soft, brown spots on the body of the cactus. Root rot occurs when a cactus is left to sit in waterlogged soil for too long, causing the roots to deteriorate and rot. Due to the roots’ loss of function, the plant will be unable to absorb its required water and nutrients from the soil. Meanwhile, the rot in the roots will also start to spread through the rest of the plant, and the brown spots on the body of the cactus are a sign of this spread. 

Small black spots

Fungi thrive in warm, moist environments, and fungal growth is a frequent side effect of overwatering.

If you notice small, black, circular spots on your cactus, this could indicate the presence of a fungal infection. Other signs to look out for include discolored scabs, soft areas, and sunken spots.

Unpleasant smell

When a cactus is suffering from root rot, it will often emit an unpleasant, rotten smell, described by some as sulfurous or compost-like. This odor is caused by bacteria that grow in an oxygen-deprived environment, such as the bottom of a waterlogged pot.

Rotten roots

If you are concerned that you may have overwatered your plant, it is a good idea to inspect the roots for any signs of rot. Rotten roots will be brown or black in color and will feel soggy, whereas healthy roots are firm and white.

The extent to which the root rot has progressed will determine whether or not you will be able to save the plant.

How can I save my overwatered prickly pear cactus?

If there are no serious signs of overwatering, such as rot, all you need to do is to stop watering the plant for a few days and wait for the soil to dry out. If there is any standing water in the soil, allow it to drain away properly.

Do not water the plant again until the top two inches of soil have completely dried out, and make sure that excess water has a way to drain from the pot. 

If possible, make small holes in the soil around the roots with a pencil; this will allow more oxygen to reach the roots while also helping the soil to dry out faster.

If the cactus is situated near a humidifier or in a particularly humid room, you may need to move it. These plants do not like high humidity and this will only increase the chances of a fungal infection.

Move your plant to a spot where it will receive more sunlight and the best possible air circulation. This will help moisture evaporate faster from the soil and from the plant itself. A bright, sunny environment is ideal for cacti, which thrive in desert-like climates. A great place for your cactus is next to a south-facing window.

If your cactus is showing signs of damage, such as yellowing leaves or stunted growth, you will need to assess the extent of the damage. To do this, unpot the cactus and brush the soil away from its roots with a soft-bristled brush. 

If the majority of the roots are white, that means very minimal damage has been done. As long as the damage has not progressed too far, your plant should be able to make a complete recovery. Repot it using fresh, well-draining potting soil, and place it in a bright and sunny position to recover.

Repotting the prickly pear cactus

Fill your pot halfway with loose potting soil. Potting mixes designed specifically for cacti can be found in any garden supply store. Those that include coarse materials such as perlite will help aerate the soil and improve its drainage.

Taking care not to damage the roots, bury your cactus about an inch deep in the new soil and fill the pot with more soil as needed.

If any roots have turned brown or black, this indicates root rot. You will need to cut away the damaged roots to prevent the spread of infection and encourage the growth of new roots in their place.

Cut away the rotten portions with a sharp, sterilized knife. In the event that any rotten bits are left behind, the disease can still be spread throughout the plant.

Keep the cactus out of the soil to allow it to air-dry for a few days, until scabs have formed on the parts that you cut. Once the scabs have dried completely, it can be transferred to a clean pot filled with cactus potting mix, according to the steps outlined above.

A different procedure must be followed in the event that your cactus has a fungal infection, signs of which include small, discolored spots, mushy areas, and small sunken areas. If the fungal infection has spread to the roots of your cactus, it is possible that you will not be able to save it. In that case, your best option is to take a cutting from a healthy area of the dying plant, which will allow you to propagate a new plant.

It is important not to water your plant for the first week after repotting it, to give it time to recover from the transplant shock. 

It is also critical to allow the soil to dry out completely before watering it again; if this is not done, the cactus will continue to show signs of overwatering and will eventually die. Stick your finger one to two inches deep into the soil and check for moisture. If the top two inches of soil are completely dry, you can restart the watering process.

How can I avoid overwatering my prickly pear cactus?

Cacti are unique in that they can store water in their bodies, which makes them extremely easy to overwater.

As mentioned above, always allow the top two inches of soil to dry out completely before watering your plant again. It should never be allowed to sit in water for an extended period, as this will waterlog the roots and cause root rot. Ensure proper drainage for your plant, and empty the saucer if any water accumulates in it.

When the time comes to water your cactus, give it a proper soaking so that all the roots have access to water. Keep watering until you see water draining from the pot’s drainage holes; this will also help to flush out any salts that may have accumulated in the soil.

While it may appear to be a minor detail, the type of container that you use can have a significant impact on the health of your plant. Because they are porous and wick moisture away from the soil, unglazed ceramic pots and terracotta pots are a great choice for succulents. Plastic and fiberglass are not the best materials, as they are non-porous and retain more moisture in the soil. It is also best not to use a metal container, because metal heats up quickly and can cause the cactus to burn; it also does not drain very well.

Whatever material you choose, make sure that the planter has drainage holes in the bottom to allow excess water to drain properly.

The type of soil you use is also extremely important. In order for water to drain effectively, the soil needs to be well-draining. Choose a mix that is sandy, pebbly, and porous. Organic matter should also be present in the soil, because this will retain moisture for the roots without waterlogging them.

Conclusion

The prickly pear cactus is a succulent, and is thus able to store water in its body for use during dry spells. This feature allows the plant to survive long periods without rain or watering, but also makes it more susceptible than most to the effects of overwatering. 

The signs of an overwatered prickly pear cactus include a pale color, brown spots near the base of the plant, black spots on the skin, an unpleasant smell in the soil, and rotten roots.

If you think your prickly pear cactus has been overwatered, stop watering it immediately and allow the soil to dry out completely. If there are no noticeable signs of damage on the plant, this measure should be sufficient.

However, if you suspect root rot in your cactus, you will have to unpot it, discard the old soil, and remove the rotten roots before repotting it in fresh, well-draining soil in a pot that has drainage holes.

Avoid overwatering your plant in the future by only watering it when the top two inches of soil are completely dry.

Image: istockphoto.com / unkas_photo

Anthurium clarinervium is a gorgeous houseplant with large, heart-shaped leaves that are velvety to the touch. White veins create lines on the top side of the leaves, producing interesting shapes and patterns that add to the plant’s aesthetic and make it a dramatic centerpiece. 

The good news about Anthurium clarinervium is that, if you want to have more than one of them in your house, you do not necessarily have to buy more plants to achieve this: you can propagate your mature Anthurium clarinervium and essentially get new plants for free.

In this article, we will discuss the correct way to propagate Anthurium clarinervium, so if you want to learn more about this process, don’t stop reading!

Why should I propagate my Anthurium clarinervium?

Propagation is the most efficient way of getting plants for free. The new plants can make wonderful gifts for friends and family, or they can simply be used to expand your own plant collection.

You may also want to consider taking a cutting for propagation if you notice that the plant is beginning to look a little unhealthy and is at risk of dying. Propagating the healthy parts of the plant is a great way to save it if you have been unsuccessful in reviving the entire plant. In this case, it is important to ensure that you only use healthy parts of the plant, as propagating sections that are rotting or infested will only transfer the problems to your new plant.

When is the best time to propagate Anthurium clarinervium?

The beginning of spring is the ideal time for propagation. Make sure that any wintery, cold weather has passed so that your new plants can begin life in the warmer, brighter months of the year. This will encourage the development of healthier, stronger roots, as well as a speedier propagation process.

You will see very little growth  if you propagate your plant in the autumn or winter; moreover, there will be a higher chance of root or leaf rot. 

How to propagate Anthurium clarinervium

Before you begin the actual process of propagation, you need to collect all the materials you will be using.

Your mature Anthurium clarinervium parent plant should be healthy and hydrated. Prepare a pair of sharp scissors, some pots for the new plants, fresh potting soil, and water.

The only method of propagation that is truly successful for Anthurium clarinervium is by division of the mother plant. This plant grows from a central stem, rather than from nodes that develop along a main stem as some other plants do. This makes it all the more important to have a fully mature plant so that you can divide it easily into two or more plants.

You will need to find natural offshoots to divide from the mother plant, so the first step is to carefully remove it from its container. Hold on to the strongest stems as you carefully pull the plant out of the pot. Some roots may have become tangled in the drainage holes, in which case, gently untangle them rather than pulling on them, because they will snap if pulled too hard.

Once the plant has been safely removed from its container, loosen the potting mix from around the roots to make the division easier. You can do this by running your fingers through the roots to separate them.

Now, start looking for a section of the plant to divide. It should be easy to see whether there are offshoots for division; they will be completely separate from one another, and each one’s growth will emerge from the middle of its own section. Even if the sections do not separate immediately, you should be able to carefully pull them apart. If the roots are not detangling easily, you may need to trim them. 

If there are no offshoots and only one central section, you will have to slice your plant in half, making sure that each section has a good share of the overall root system to increase its chances of growing successfully.

The mother plant should be returned to its original pot, or a smaller one if you have removed a substantial amount of the plant. After that, you will need to decide whether you want to pot the new sections in potting mix or root them in water first.

For sections with mature roots, it is perfectly fine to plant them directly into newly-watered soil. Your new plants will need a fresh, high-quality potting mix to receive all of their required nutrients. Never reuse old soil because it can introduce bacteria and pests to your new plant.

If you think your offshoot’s roots require a little more time to establish themselves, you can place the divided section into water as a middle step. If you do this, you must ensure that you change the water as soon as it starts to look murky or if it is starting to smell. This will prevent the growth of any bacteria that could be harmful to the development of the young plant.

When the roots have grown several inches, you can go ahead and plant the offshoot in a pot.

Once your new plant is established in fresh potting mix, you can return to your regular maintenance routine.

Take care to avoid exposing the new plants to excessive direct sunlight, as this can cause damage to both the mature leaves and any new growth.

If the new sections were grown in water before being potted, keep their potting mix slightly more moist than usual for a few weeks after planting them. This is simply to help them acclimatize to growing in potting mix and avoid too much transplant shock.

Anthurium clarinervium plant care

Soil

Choosing the proper soil for your Anthurium clarinervium is extremely important. 

The soil must be loose and well-draining, because root rot and other conditions caused by excessive moisture are a real concern for these plants.

They also require acidic soil with a pH ranging from 5.5 to 6.5.

Orchid bark potting mixes are the best choice for these plants, because they contain the most nutrients. 

The pot you use for the plant is just as important as the soil, because no matter how well-draining the soil may be, if the pot has no drainage holes, water will still be retained inside the pot and the plant’s roots will become waterlogged.

Light

Your new plant’s lighting conditions can make or break it. Anthurium clarinervium is finicky and sensitive to its environment, and direct sunlight can cause your plant’s foliage to burn and scorch. It is extremely sensitive to the effects of the sun and heat.

This means that it should be kept away from windows that receive a lot of direct light, and also should not be placed directly under grow lights. 

The best option is filtered sunlight. If you have an east-facing window, place your plant there and it will get plenty of filtered sunlight. A window with a north-facing orientation will also suffice.

If you live in a place with little to no sunlight for a few months a year, you can supplement the plant’s light requirements with a grow light, but make sure that it is not too close to your plant.

Watering

Watering your Anthurium clarinervium is very similar to watering any other houseplants. You do not want to overwater it; nor do you want it to become dehydrated.

During the growing season, make sure that the soil around the plant is moist but not wet. In the warmer seasons, it will require more water than during colder months. Depending on factors like local climate and weather conditions, the plant will typically need watering about three times a week.

Outside of the growing season, you will not have to water your plant as frequently; the soil retains water more easily during the colder months. Thus, you will probably only need to water your plant about twice a month.

Temperature

The ideal temperature for Anthurium clarinervium varies depending on the time of year.

During its growing season, it likes temperatures between 65 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit, although it can survive in temperatures as high as 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

During the rest of the year, the plant can withstand temperatures as low as 55 degrees Fahrenheit. However, it should not be exposed to temperatures any lower than this, or it might freeze.

Humidity

Anthurium clarinervium thrives in humid environments. The humidity should be at least 60 percent or higher, with 80 percent being the ideal level.

This plant’s growth is accelerated by high humidity. Its leaves will become brighter and greener as the warm season progresses.

There are a couple of approaches you can take to ensure that your plant receives adequate humidity in your home. The simplest method is to place a humidifier in the same room as the plant. There is no work involved for you, and no significant upkeep.

If a humidifier is not a feasible option, you can use a water pebble tray. Just place the plant’s pot on top of the pebble tray and, as the water evaporates, it will moisten air around the plant as well as the soil in the pot.

You can also place your Anthurium clarinervium next to other humidity-loving plants. This way the plants will create a microclimate around each.

Fertilizer

These plants do not require nearly as much fertilization as the majority of other plants.

When the growing season begins, fertilize the plant every two months or so. For the rest of the year, fertilize it once every six months at the most.

Always use half-strength, indoor plant fertilizer on your Anthurium clarinervium. Ideally, the phosphorus concentration should be higher than that of all the other elements.

An Anthurium clarinervium that is fertilized too often may end up with a buildup of mineral salts in its soil, which can be problematic. Every three to four months, flush the soil around your plants with water to keep mineral salts from building up.

Conclusion

Anthurium clarinervium is a majestic houseplant that has large, heart-shaped leaves run through with white veins. The top side of the leaves have a velvety texture, adding to the plant’s luxurious and unique look and feel.

If your mature plant is not looking healthy, or if you just want to have more of the same plant, it helps to know how to propagate it. Propagation allows you to take a cutting from the original plant and grow a new one in case you are unable to save the parent plant.

Anthurium clarinervium also makes a great gift for friends and family, and propagating your parent plant means you can give someone a gift without spending any money at all.

Propagation of this plant is most successful by division of the rhizomes, or sections, of the parent plant. You can plant these rhizomes directly into fresh potting soil, since they already have substantial roots, but if you want to let the roots grow out a bit more first, you can let the section root in a container of water for a few weeks.

Either way, once you have planted your new Anthurium clarinervium in a pot, you can resume your usual care routine as you would for a mature plant.

Image: istockphoto.com / Firn

The autograph plant, or Clusia rosea, is a tropical plant native to the Caribbean. It has thick, dark green, leathery leaves that grow from horizontal branches attached to its stem. It gets its name from the fact that its leaves are so thick and tough that words or symbols can be carved into them.

Where the plant grows freely outside of its native area, it is considered an invasive species because of its propensity to grow on top of other plants and strangle them. However, because it is native to tropical climates, the autograph plant does not do well in cold weather, so it is mainly grown as an indoor plant in North America.

This is quite inexpensive to buy, but even so, you may enjoy the satisfaction of propagating it if you want to give one as a gift to a loved one or produce more of the same plant for yourself.

In this article, we will go into more detail about why and how to propagate this interesting plant. Read on to learn more! 

Why should I propagate my autograph plant?

One reason to propagate your autograph plant is if it is growing asymmetrically and you need to prune it back into shape. It may have become leggy due to insufficient light, it might be growing sideways, or perhaps it has simply got too large for the available space in your home. In these cases, pruning is the most effective method of maintaining the plant’s desired shape – and rather than discarding the cuttings, you can use them to grow yourself more autograph plants.

Alternatively, if your autograph plant is dying, you may find yourself with no choice but to propagate it or lose it completely. Try to diagnose and remedy the cause of the plant’s poor health first, but if things continue to deteriorate, you may need to propagate it in order to keep even a small portion of it alive.

In the latter case, you must ensure that you only propagate the healthy parts of the plant, because any problems or pests that are afflicting the unhealthy parts of your old plant will be transferred to your new plant, resulting in a failed propagation attempt.

Finally, the best reason to propagate your autograph plant is that you will get free new plants as a result of your efforts. Propagation is the most effective way to increase the number of plants in your home without having to spend any additional money. If you already have a large collection of plants, you can give the new plants as gifts to friends and family.

When is the best time to propagate my autograph plant?

When propagating plants through stem cuttings, the best time to take the cuttings is in the spring. This is because it takes time for your cutting to establish a completely new root system and new leaves. By starting in the spring or early summer, your plant will have a good few months of sunny, warm weather to support its new growth.

Propagating in the springtime also ensures that your mother plant has the best possible conditions in which to recover, as propagation can be a stressful experience.

How to propagate an autograph plant

Before starting the propagation process, gather the materials you will be using and make sure that your parent autograph plant is mature and healthy. Prepare a pair of sterile, sharp shears, new pots, fresh potting mix and water.

The most effective method of propagating your autograph plant is by taking stem cuttings. Although new plants can be grown from seeds, the success rate is extremely low if not done by professionals. Stem cuttings will work best if you have a mature autograph plant on your property from which to take the cuttings.

It is important to take the cuttings correctly. Select only healthy stems from the parent plant, because if you choose a part that is wilted, yellow, or dry, your chances of success are significantly lower.

Your plant’s maturity and your personal preference will determine whether you take one or more stem cuttings from it. This decision will have no effect on the propagation process.

Once you have selected a section of healthy stem, make a diagonal cut across the stem with shears or a knife. The diagonal orientation increases the surface area of the cut and encourages the growth of more roots.

The simplest method of propagation is to grow the cuttings directly in potting mix, as their roots grow fairly quickly once established. However, if you want to increase your success rate, you can let the cuttings root in a glass of water first.

To do this, carefully remove any leaves from the lower part of the cutting that may end up submerged in the water. Any leaves that come into contact with the water in the glass will begin to rot and spread bacteria, which will be detrimental to the development of your cutting’s roots.

Fill a glass halfway with fresh, room-temperature water and place the cutting in it. It is important not to use very cold or hot water, as this will shock the cutting and may affect your results.

A transparent container is preferred because it allows you to see the roots growing and identify any problems early on. Also avoid putting too much water in the glass, because that will increase the chances of stem rot.

Water quality is critical, so we recommend that you change the water every couple of days to ensure it remains fresh. This will keep it free of bacteria and help prevent it from becoming stagnant and smelly.

Now that your autograph plant cutting is happily submerged in the water, there is nothing to do except continue switching out the water when it becomes murky or smelly, and wait for the roots to start growing over the next few weeks.

Do not be concerned if it takes several weeks before you see roots, and keep your cutting submerged until the roots reach a length of one to two inches. At this point, the cutting is ready to be planted in a pot with soil.

Use a high-quality potting mix to ensure that your plant receives the proper balance of nutrients. For autograph plants, it is best to use a well-draining mix that contains perlite, which helps prevent any issues caused by accidental overwatering.

Once potted, you can continue to care for your new autograph plant in the same way as you care for the mother plant. Soon enough, it will be big enough for you to start the process all over again.

Autograph plant care

Light

The best light for this plant is direct sunlight, but it can also tolerate partial shade. When grown indoors as a houseplant, it will thrive in medium light levels with a little bit of shade on occasion.

It should not be kept in low light conditions for extended periods, because this can cause it to become leggy and stretched out due to etiolation. An etiolated plant is so desperate for light that it will literally start stretching toward the nearest light source. If the issue is not resolved in time, there is a risk that the plant will die.

If you live in a place where sunlight is scarce for a few months of the year, you might have to get a grow light to make sure that the plant gets the light that it needs every day.

Soil

The best soil for this plant is sandy, soft, loose, and well-draining. It should be fertile and packed with organic material. When growing autograph plants in pots, mix the potting mix with a small amount of orchid-specific growing medium before planting.

The pot you use for the plant should also have drainage holes at the bottom so that any excess water in the soil can simply flow out, thus reducing the chances of overwatering and root rot.

Water

In order for a young autograph plant to become fully established, it will need to be watered regularly for the first year or so. After that, you can reduce the watering frequency, though regular watering will help it grow more full. Although this species is fairly drought-tolerant, it is important not to allow the soil to become completely dry around it.

When grown as a houseplant, it will typically require watering once a week in the summer and around twice a month in the winter.

The easiest way to determine whether the plant needs to be watered is by poking your finger into the top two inches of soil. If the soil is dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Temperature and humidity

Because it cannot tolerate temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, this plant should only be kept outdoors if you live in a tropical climate. Indoors, the ideal temperature for the plant is between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

The autograph plant also prefers environments with high humidity, so try placing your indoor plant on a shallow gravel tray filled with water and mist it on a regular basis.

You can also keep the plant in your bathroom or kitchen, because these are two of the most humid rooms in a house. If you have other humidity-loving plants, group them together with your autograph plant so that they can all create a microclimate around each other.

Finally, if you have the means, you can also buy a humidifier to regulate the humidity in the room where you keep your plant

Fertilizer

Use three applications of fertilizer per year: in the spring, summer, and fall. Organic granular fertilizer is best. Alternatively, if you prefer to fertilize more frequently, use a diluted liquid fertilizer that is evenly balanced.

Be careful not to overfertilize your autograph plant; this can lead to soil toxicity and root burn which can considerably damage the roots and may even kill the plant.

If you think you have overfertilized your plant, flush the soil with rain water or distilled water to remove any buildup of salts that has formed. In chronic cases, you might be better off changing the plant’s soil entirely.

Conclusion

The autograph plant is a low-maintenance houseplant that is native to the Caribbean. It prefers tropical conditions, even when grown indoors.

The plant has thick, leathery, dark green leaves that can be carved into, hence the plant’s name.

Although it is possible to grow new autograph plants from seed, that method takes a very long time, while using stem cuttings for propagation is much faster and easier.

Take a few cuttings from your parent plant using a sterile pair of shears. You can plant the cutting directly in fresh potting mix or let it root in water first.

After a few weeks, the cutting should have roots that are several inches long and is then ready to be planted in soil. You can then start caring for the new plant as you would a mature autograph plant.

Image: istockphoto.com / passion4nature

The arrowhead plant is a vining or trailing plant that is native to South America and Mexico. Its aesthetic has gained it much popularity over recent years, especially as a hanging plant.

This plant gets its name from the shape of its leaves which, when young, emerge in the shape of an arrowhead. As the leaf matures, however, it becomes lobed. The color of the leaves also changes with maturity. During different stages, they can have bright pink, lime green, dark green, or even white hues.

Because the plant’s natural habitat is tropical, it does not do well in cold weather. If you live in an area with cold winters, you are better off growing it indoors.

One of the most common problems experienced by arrowhead plant owners is yellowing leaves on their plant. This change in color is due to an environmental factor causing the plant stress. Such factors include underwatering, overwatering, too much sunlight, poor lighting, lack of nutrients, incorrect soil pH, temperature changes, low humidity, pests, and natural aging.

In this article, we will discuss each of these possible causes of yellowing leaves and what you can do to fix each one. So, if you are facing a similar problem and wish to learn more, just keep on reading.

Why are the leaves on my arrowhead plant turning yellow?

Not enough water

If the leaves on your arrowhead plant are turning yellow, drying out, and becoming crispy, it is possible that you have not been giving it enough water. Consistent underwatering will cause your plant to dry out, turn yellow, and become very limp over time due to dehydration.

You will be able to tell that the plant is underwatered if you poke your finger two inches into the soil and you feel no dampness or moisture. 

If you suspect that your arrowhead’s yellow leaves are the result of underwatering, water the plant immediately. Keep pouring water over the soil until you are sure that all of the soil has been generously soaked; then let the excess water drain out through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot before placing the plant back in its usual spot.

Sometimes, if a plant has been dehydrated for too long, the soil becomes so dry and compact that it repels water, making it impossible to rehydrate the plant or the soil from the top. If this is the case, you will have to bottom-water your plant. To do this, place the pot in a shallow basin filled with about three inches of water. Leave the pot in the water for 10 to 15 minutes, so that the thirsty soil and roots can absorb the water through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. After 10 to 15 minutes, remove the pot from the basin and leave it on a rack to let the excess water drip out for a few hours. When all of the excess water has drained, you can replace the plant in its usual spot.

After three to four cycles of either top watering or bottom watering, you should see signs of recovery in your underwatered arrowhead plant.

Too much water

The most common reason arrowhead leaves turn yellow is from overwatering. This can happen as a result of giving the plant too much water every time you water it, watering it more often than necessary, using poorly-draining soil or pots, or not adjusting your watering habits to changes in the weather, season or climate.

If the soil around your plant retains too much water, it will become soggy and waterlogged, which is not a suitable environment for arrowhead plants: they prefer their soil to dry out a little between waterings. 

Constantly wet soil increases the risk of root rot. Furthermore, a compromised root system is unable to absorb the nutrients, minerals and water necessary for the plants’s healthy growth. When the roots are in trouble, yellowing of the plant’s leaves is a common symptom.

If you think your arrowhead plant is overwatered, stop watering it immediately and place it in a spot where it can get lots of bright, indirect light to help the soil dry out faster.

If you suspect root rot, you will have to remove the plant from its pot to check the roots. After unpotting it, shake or wash off as much soil from the roots as possible. Then, inspect the roots for sections that are brown or black; these are rotten and must be removed. Use a sterile pair of scissors to prune them away until only healthy, white roots remain.

Place the plant on a dry, flat surface and let the roots air-dry for a few hours.

Choose a new pot that has drainage holes at the bottom and fill it halfway with a well-draining potting mix. Place the plant in the pot and cover the roots with more soil.

To avoid overwatering in the future, always check the soil’s moisture level before watering the plant. To do this, poke your index finger into the soil, and if the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch, you can water the plant. If the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

Too much sunlight

When it comes to lighting requirements, arrowhead plants are extremely adaptable. For short periods, they can tolerate a variety of conditions. However, they do best with bright to moderate lighting, and their leaves can become scorched and yellow if exposed to direct sunlight for extended periods.

If you notice your arrowhead’s leaves turning yellow and suspect sun exposure to be the culprit, move the plant to a different, shadier location. Place it near a window that gets bright, indirect sunlight, rather than any direct light. An east-facing window is ideal.

If the only window available in your home lets in harsh light, you can still place your plant there, but hang a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the light’s intensity.

Poor lighting

Although the arrowhead plant prefers indirect light, this does not mean you can keep it in low light conditions for too long, either. Plants always need a light source because this is how they create food and energy for themselves to keep growing and surviving.

If you deprive the plant of its required light, its leaves will turn to a pale yellow color and become duller. It will also have stunted growth and the entire plant may start to droop.

A plant that does not get enough light can also become leggy as it starts to grow and lean in the direction of the nearest light source.

If you think your plant is not getting enough light, gradually expose it to more and more light every day in a sunnier spot. Make sure the plant still only gets indirect light, though, because you don’t want it to be scorched, either.

Rotate the plant 30 degrees every couple of days so that all sides get their fair share of light and the plant grows symmetrically.

Lack of nutrients

Arrowhead plants are only moderate feeders, and will develop stunning foliage if they receive the proper fertilizer and good care.

The yellowing of arrowhead plant leaves can be a sign of nutrient deficiency.

The plant needs nitrogen, magnesium, phosphorus, and other essential nutrients, all of which can be found in most commercially available houseplant fertilizers.

Fertilize your arrowhead plant once a month during its growing season, which is the spring and summer. It is best not to fertilize it during the fall and winter, as this is when the plant is dormant and does not need extra nutrients for new growth.

Soil pH

Arrowhead plants prefer slightly acidic soil. In alkaline soil, their roots will not be able to absorb iron very effectively, and iron is essential for photosynthesis and chlorophyll synthesis. Because chlorophyll is the pigment that gives plants their green color, if the plant cannot produce the pigment, its leaves will turn yellow.

pH aside, these plants like their soil fertile, breathable, and well-draining. They will lose their leaves if the soil has poor drainage or permeability, or if it is alkaline. Replace your plant’s soil every one to two years, and add ferrous sulfate to the soil to acidify it if it is too alkaline.

Temperature changes

Arrowhead plants grow naturally in subtropical and tropical environments. The good news is that they can also be grown in indoor environments as houseplants, but keep in mind that they are extremely sensitive to temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Aside from that, high temperatures can cause sunburn and yellowing leaves on these plants. In order to grow arrowheads successfully indoors, the room temperature should remain between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures below or above this ideal range will compromise the vibrant green colors of the foliage. 

You could invest in a digital thermometer to help you monitor the temperature in the room where you keep your plant. It is also important to keep it away from any source of heat, such as heating vents, to prevent the foliage from being burned.

Low humidity

The arrowhead plant likes humid conditions that simulate the warm, moist environment of its natural habitat. A high level of humidity in the room where it is kept will help keep any leaf problems at bay.

The plant’s leaf tips and edges will become yellow or brown if the humidity is too low. This is because dry air will remove the moisture from the leaves, leading to the discoloration. The leaves may droop and turn yellow on both sides before eventually turning brown.

If your climate is not very humid, mist the plant’s leaves two to three times per week so that they do not dry out as fast. It may be a good idea to keep the plant in the bathroom or kitchen, because these rooms are the most humid. Just be sure that, if you place it in the bathroom, it can still get the light that it needs.

You can also place the plant’s pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water, so that as the water evaporates from the tray, it moistens the air around the plant.

Finally, if you have the means, you can buy a humidifier to regulate the humidity in the room where you keep your plant.

Pests

Arrowhead plant leaves are highly susceptible to mealybugs and spider mites, which can cause significant damage. Pest infestations can also result in yellowing foliage.

Spider mites are well-known for sucking the sap from the cells of plants’ leaves. This depletes the leaves of nutrients and moisture. The yellowing is caused by the holes on the leaves left by the pests where they fed. 

Before you start to treat your plant for any infestation, move it to a different part of the house to keep it quarantined from your healthy plants.

A simple way to kill the pests is to use either neem oil or rubbing alcohol. Soak a cotton pad with either of these and wipe down the affected areas of the plant. Repeat the treatment every three days until you are sure that all of the pests have been removed.

Natural aging of the plant

If you have gone through all of the reasons above and none of them seem to apply to your arrowhead plant, it is possible that its yellowing leaves are simply due to natural aging.

It is completely normal for your plant to shed some of its older leaves as it concentrates on producing new growth over time. These older leaves will first turn yellow and then fall off the plant.

If the rate of yellowing is quite slow, it is nothing to be concerned about and is simply a normal part of the shedding process. Keep an eye on how frequently they are turning yellow, though, because if the rate accelerates, it may be necessary to inspect the plant once more for the issues discussed above.

Arrowhead plant care

Light

The arrowhead plant prefers bright, indirect light, and direct sunlight should be avoided. Because harsh rays can burn or bleach the delicate leaves of the plant, diffused light is the best option. Those with variegated color patterns can withstand a little more direct sunlight, whereas those with darker green foliage are better suited to partial shade.

Soil

Plant your arrowhead plant in a traditional, soil-based potting mix to give it a strong foundation. Because arrowhead plants are prone to root rot, you should make sure that whatever soil you use is well-draining. Additionally, consider planting it in a terracotta or clay pot to help wick away any excess moisture from the soil.

Water

Water your arrowhead plant on a regular basis during the spring and summer months, and reduce your watering frequency during the winter months. Allow the soil to dry out partially between waterings, but never let it dry completely. Similarly, the soil should never be soggy because this increases the chances of root rot which can kill the plant if not treated immediately.

Temperature and humidity

The arrowhead plant prefers warm, humid conditions consistent with its tropical habitat. As much as possible, try to keep the temperature around it above 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

While the plant can withstand average humidity, it will thrive if there is additional moisture in the air. Consider putting your plant in a part of your home where there is naturally higher humidity, like the bathroom or kitchen. You can also use other methods of increasing humidity such as a humidifier, or a water pebble tray beneath the plant’s pot.

Fertilizer

Support your plant’s growth by feeding it with houseplant fertilizer once a month during the spring and summer. During the winter, when the plant’s growth naturally slows, stop feeding it.

Conclusion

The arrowhead plant is a popular houseplant that is low-maintenance and easy to grow.

It is native to South America and Mexico, and prefers living conditions that simulate its tropical natural habitat.

This plant gets its name from the shape of its leaves when they are young, which resemble arrowheads; however, as the leaves mature they become more deeply lobed.

One of the most common problems encountered by arrowhead owners is when their plant’s leaves turn yellow. The possible causes of this are not enough water, too much water, too much sunlight, poor lighting, lack of nutrients, temperature changes, overfertilization, low humidity, pests, and natural aging.

The sooner the exact cause of the problem is determined, the faster the issue can be resolved and the plant can return to full health.

Image: istockphoto.com / Jamaludin Yusup

Philodendron Birkin is one of the most beautiful houseplants to have in your home. Its large, dark green leaves are delicately striped with white that becomes more apparent as the plant gets older.

The Birkin may not be the easiest plant to grow and care for, but its care is still pretty straightforward and, if you have at least some experience with houseplants, you should have no problem keeping it alive.

One of the common signs that a Philodendron Birkin is not feeling right is when the entire plant starts to look limp and droopy. This is most likely due to an environmental factor that is causing the plant significant stress, and the most probable culprits are low temperatures, not enough water, too much water, or disease.

In this article, we will discuss the different causes of a drooping Philodendron Birkin, and what you can do to remedy the problem and return your plant to good health.

Why is my Philodendron Birkin drooping?

Low temperatures

Philodendron Birkin is native to the tropics and therefore thrives in warm temperatures, making it unsuitable for homes where the indoor temperature is chilly. Although you may not be aware of cold air leaking through cracks in doors and windows, if your Birkin is right next to them, the constant stream of cold air from outside can cause serious shock and damage to the plant.

Keep your plant safe in the winter by insulating any windows or doors nearby.

During the summer, keep it away from air conditioning vents, because the cold air from these can also be harmful, despite the warm weather outside.

If you keep your Philodendron Birkin in a chilly room, it will be more susceptible to overwatering and root rot. Because the soil will take much longer to dry out, your plant will require water less often. Problems such as root rot are more likely to occur in these conditions, which is why you should exercise extra caution when caring for plants in the winter or in colder parts of your home.

The ideal room temperature for your Philodendron Birkin is between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Try not to expose the plant to temperatures lower or higher than that range and it is unlikely to droop due to temperature changes.

Not enough water

Drooping leaves on a Philodendron Birkin can also be caused by insufficient watering. Sometimes we all get a little caught up in other things we have going on in life, and before we know it, our plants have not been watered for weeks.

Consistent underwatering can result in a variety of problems, including the death of the plant if the issue is not addressed quickly. Even occasional underwatering can cause drooping leaves.

If the leaves are extremely dry and droopy, you should suspect underwatering to be the source of the problem. However, before increasing your watering frequency, remove the plant from the pot and feel how dry the potting mix is on your fingers. You want to make sure that underwatering is indeed the problem, otherwise you may end up inadvertently overwatering the plant.

Once you are certain that the soil is completely dry and underwatering has caused the drooping, you can begin to gradually reintroduce watering.

It is natural to want to drown the plant in water to compensate for all the time it has been without water, but doing so can actually cause more damage and more brown leaves. This is because plants are shocked by any sudden environmental change.

It is preferable, and most effective, to water your thirsty Philodendron Birkin in small amounts, once or twice daily, for a week.

You can return to your normal watering routine after a week or so, making sure to check the moisture in the soil on a regular basis to prevent the leaves from drooping again. 

It will be easier to keep track of moisture levels if you use a moisture meter, but if you do not have one, you can check the soil’s moisture by touching it with your fingers. If the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

Too much water

Overwatering is one of the most common reasons your Philodendron Birkin might droop. There are several ways you can overwater your plant: by giving it too much water every time you water it, watering it more often than you should, using poorly-draining soil or pots, or not adjusting your watering habits to changes in the weather, season or climate.

The leaves of an overwatered plant will be quite soft and mushy to the touch, because when the soil does not drain fast enough, the roots will continue to absorb water to the point that the cells in the leaves burst from the overload, hence their mushy texture.

Because the soil is unable to drain the excess water, the plant’s entire root system will begin to rot. A weakened root system means that the plant will be unable to absorb the nutrients it requires, and the roots will be unable to support the plant’s growth; hence, the stems and leaves begin to droop as a result.

If you are unable to catch the root rot in its early stages, things can turn from bad to worse in no time and your plant may even die.

If your Philodendron Birkin has been overwatered and is showing signs of drooping, simply stop watering it until the soil has completely dried out. Before watering it again, make sure that the top two inches of soil are completely dry.

If you suspect root rot, you will have to unpot the plant and gently remove as much soil as you can from the roots as you can. The roots will be very delicate at this point, and you do not want to damage them further by handling them carelessly.

Inspect all of the roots and, if there are sections that have turned brown or black, they will have to be pruned off as they are rotten. Remove all of the rotten foliage along with the rotten roots, making sure that only white, healthy roots remain.

Place the plant on a dry surface and allow the roots to air-dry for several hours.

Fill a new pot a third of the way with fresh, well-draining potting mix, place the plant in the middle of the pot, and add more soil to cover the roots.

You do not have to water the plant immediately after repotting it. It is best to wait at least a week before watering, so that the roots have enough time to recover from the trauma of repotting.

Avoid overwatering your plant in the future by checking the soil’s moisture to ensure that the top two inches of soil are dry before watering it.

Disease

If the stems of your Philodendron Birkin are drooping, a disease known as fire blight could be the culprit. In a short period of time, the disease can spread throughout the plant’s entire system. The Birkin’s leaves will become discolored and both the leaves and stems will start to droop. Aside from that, your plant will smell bad and have strange lesions on its stems.

If you catch the fire blight in time, you have a small window of opportunity to save the plant. Disinfect your pruning shears by dipping them in isopropyl alcohol, and then cut off any infected branches. In addition, you will need to heat-sterilize the soil.

When the disease first appears, you can also treat it with an antibiotic called streptomycin.

Philodendron Birkin care

Soil

Philodendron Birkin thrives in an aroid mix that includes peat, perlite, charcoal, orchid bark, and potting soil.

The soil should drain well but should not be too loose. It needs to keep the plant hydrated by retaining a certain amount of moisture, but excess water must be able to drain away from the roots to avoid wet feet.

The pot you use for the plant should have drainage holes at the bottom, also to ensure that any excess water can escape rather than accumulating around the plant’s roots.

Light

Philodendron Birkin thrives in bright, indirect light. The aim is to simulate the lighting conditions of the plant’s natural habitat, where it grows under a tropical tree canopy.

If the leaves are exposed to direct sunlight for an extended period of time, they will dry out, wilt and fall off.

However, too much shade can also be harmful to your Birkin. This can cause too much space to develop between the leaves as the stems grow longer in search of light, and this in turn will cause the stems to sag.

If you are going to place your plant on a window sill, make sure it faces east or west. Another option is to use artificial lighting, rather than hoping your plant gets enough sunlight on a window sill. It needs at least 12 hours of light per day, but never expose it to light for 24 hours at a time.

Watering

Avoid overwatering your plant, because waterlogged soil will drown its roots. As mentioned earlier, check the moisture in the soil by touching the top two inches to see if they are dry. Do not water the plant if the soil is still damp.

Adjust the amount of water and the frequency according to your local climate and weather conditions.

Temperature

Because it is a tropical plant, the Birkin thrives in a warm environment. During the day, a room temperature between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal, and at night, the temperature should be around 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Never allow the room’s temperature to fall below 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

Humidity

For tropical Philodendron Birkin, a humidity level of 60 percent or higher is ideal. It can survive in lower humidity, but will be healthier in a more humid environment.

If you live in a dry climate zone, you may need to take measures to increase the humidity around your plant. There are several ways to do this:

• Mist the plant with water in the mornings. 
• Fill a tray with pebbles and water, and place the plant’s pot on top of the tray. As the water evaporates, it will moisten the air around the plant.
• Place the plant in the bathroom or the kitchen, because those are the most humid rooms in a house.
• If you have other plants that like high humidity, place them near your Birkin so that they can all create a microclimate around each other.
• If you have the means, a humidifier can do the heavy lifting by automatically regulating the humidity in the room where you keep the plant.

Fertilizer

Fertilizer is the most important factor in growing a healthy Philodendron Birkin with large, attractive leaves. Once a week, fertilize your plant with a balanced liquid fertilizer.

Calcium and magnesium must be present in the fertilizer, as these are two of the most important micronutrients for philodendrons.

During the winter, reduce your fertilizing to once a month.

Conclusion

The Philodendron Birkin is one of the most attractive and eye-catching houseplants, thanks to its large green leaves with delicate white stripes.

This plant has a particular set of preferences when it comes to its living conditions, and if any of these factors are off, it can cause the plant to become stressed and start to droop.

The possible causes of a drooping Philodendron Birkin are low temperatures, not enough water, too much water, and disease.

The sooner you are able to identify the exact cause of your plant’s drooping, the faster you can treat it and return your plant to perfect health.

Image: istockphoto.com / Patcharamai Vutipapornkul

Stromanthe Triostar is a beautiful plant that belongs to the prayer plant family. Its leaves are variegated with shades of pink that contrast beautifully with their green background.

This plant is native to the Amazon rainforest in South America, which means that if you plan to grow it in the United States, you will have to try to simulate the living conditions of its natural habitat. It is not the most cold-hardy of plants, and might have to be grown exclusively indoors if you live in a place with four seasons.

Because of the plant’s delicate beauty, it has become a popular gift. The good news is that, if you already have your own, fully-grown Stromanthe Triostar, you can propagate it and give the new plants to friends and family – or you could just keep them for your own home!

In this article, we will discuss the correct way to propagate your Stromanthe Triostar, as well as the plant’s proper cultural care. So, if you want to learn more about propagation before giving it a try, just keep reading.

What are the reasons to propagate my Stromanthe Triostar?

There are various reasons you might want – or need – to propagate your Stromanthe Triostar.

The primary reason is simply to increase the number of plants without having to purchase new ones. Young Stromanthe Triostar plants make wonderful gifts for friends and family.

Another reason to propagate is if the plant has become too large for its container and you have to prune it. You can then save the prunings you have cut from the parent plant and use them for propagation.

Alternatively, if your Stromanthe Triostar is showing signs of distress or illness, you may find yourself with no choice but to propagate it before the plant dies. Check to make sure that the part of the plant you have chosen to propagate is in good health, because any problems will be passed on to the new, young plant.

When is the best time to propagate my Stromanthe Triostar?

Propagate your Stromanthe Triostar during the spring and summer months. This will ensure that your mother plant recovers quickly from the trauma of propagation.

It is not out of the question to propagate the plant in the winter, but the new plants will have a harder time growing new leaves because they are supposed to be dormant at that time of year. 

How to propagate Stromanthe Triostar

Before starting the process, gather the tools and materials you will need. Make sure you have a healthy, fully-grown Stromanthe Triostar plant, a pair of sterile scissors, new pots, fresh potting mix, and water.

Unlike most other houseplants, you can only propagate your Stromanthe Triostar by dividing the mother plant. It would be problematic to remove such a large chunk from a young plant, which is why it is important that the parent plant is fully mature. 

The advantage of the division method of propagation is that it has a high success rate and takes less time to complete. Your new plant will already have a well-developed root system, which makes it more resistant to disease and pests.

You will need to identify the various natural sections of your Stromanthe Triostar before dividing it. Carefully remove your plant from its pot, shaking off any excess potting mix that has accumulated around the root system.

Next, identify the various offshoots that have grown from the mother plant. They will each have a distinct root system, and growth will begin from the middle of each section.

Separate the various sections carefully with a divider. It is fine if you have to slice around the sections a little to separate them; just make sure that each section has a significant portion of the root system to aid in its successful propagation. During this stage, you have the option of selecting how many new plants you want to create. 

The parent plant should be replanted in its original pot, or in a smaller pot if its original size has been significantly reduced by the division. Plant it in fresh soil, as this will help to stabilize it and reduce the risk of root rot.

The next step is to choose whether to start your new plants in water first, or plant them directly in potting mix. The latter is a good option if their root systems are already quite strong. However, if you have damaged the roots during the division process or believe they are underdeveloped, you may want to start them off in fresh water for a few weeks before transplanting them into soil.

When potting into soil, use a high-quality potting mix to provide the right balance of nutrients and ensure that the plant survives. It is important to use new soil, rather than reusing soil from previous plants, because bacteria and pests can survive for a long time in old potting mix and can be passed on to your new Stromanthe Triostar.

As soon as you have potted your new Stromanthe Triostar plants, you can treat them as you would your other Stromanthe plants.

Stromanthe Triostar plant care

Light requirements

Tropical plants require lighting conditions similar to those that would be found in a tropical rainforest environment. Thus, placing your Stromanthe Triostar in a spot that gets dappled light will give it the best chance of flourishing.

Make sure it only gets indirect light, because its leaves can burn when exposed to excessive direct sunlight.

Dust the leaves of your plant from time to time, so that they are not obstructed from receiving adequate natural light.

Soil requirements

A well-draining, light and airy soil is essential for your Triostar. Although the soil should retain a degree of moisture, it should never be overly heavy. If your potting mix retains too much water, you might need to add ingredients to make it more loose and airy, such as perlite or vermiculite.

Make sure that the pot you are using for your plant has sufficient drainage holes at the bottom so that excess water can drain out easily. This will significantly reduce the chances of overwatering and root rot.

Water requirements

It is critical to ensure that your Triostar receives an adequate and consistent amount of water. If you do not do this correctly, the plant will quickly lose vitality. Keep it a little drier during the cooler months; try to allow only the top inch of soil to dry out before watering it again.

This plant can be picky about the quality and temperature of the water it receives. Because it is sensitive to the chemicals found in ordinary tap water, it is better to use distilled water or, if that is not available, spring water will also suffice. Make sure the water is not too cold, as this can shock the plant.

If you are watering your plant incorrectly, you will notice its leaves turning brown or yellow. Try to keep the soil constantly moist, but never soggy or waterlogged. Yellow leaves indicate that the soil has been overwatered and you will need to allow it to dry out before watering the plant again. Be patient, as this could take several weeks. If the soil around the plant refuses to dry out, it may be time to repot it in fresh soil.

Temperature and humidity requirements

As you might expect from a tropical plant, the Triostar thrives in a humid environment with warm temperatures. It grows best in temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Many people hang their triostar from their bathroom window to ensure adequate humidity. You can also place your plant in the kitchen, where the steam from cooking raises the humidity in the room. 

Other ways of increasing humidity for your plant include misting the leaves with water, or placing the plant’s pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water evaporates from the tray, it will moisten the air around the plant.

If you have other plants that enjoy humidity, you can group them together with your Stromanthe Triostar so that they can all create a microclimate around each other.

Finally if you have the means, you can buy a humidifier that will automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

Fertilizer requirements

Feeding your Triostar with a diluted, balanced fertilizer once or twice a week can help it thrive and produce more flowers. Make certain that the solution is not too strong, and that it is not applied too frequently, as this can cause root burn. If you choose organic fertilizer, it is less likely to be too strong, and you will not have to dilute it as much.

During the winter months when your plant is dormant, you do not need to fertilize it.

Pests

If the Stromanthe Triostar is kept in a place with low humidity, it will start to attract pests such as spider mites and aphids. These pests suck the sap from the plant’s leaves, leaving dark spots that can spread and damage the entire leaf as the infestation becomes bigger.

To get rid of pests, you can use a strong stream of water from a garden hose to knock them off the foliage of the plant. You can also use neem oil or rubbing alcohol: just apply a little of either on a cotton pad and wipe down the affected areas of the plant. Repeat this process every three to four days until you are sure that all of the pests have been eradicated.

Conclusion

The Stromanthe Triostar is a popular houseplant with beautiful pink and green variegated leaves. It is native to the Amazon rainforest and it thrives in humid, moist environments.

Because it is so attractive and compact, this plant is a great choice as a gift for the plant lover in your life. If you already have a mature Stromanthe Triostar at home, you can actually grow more by simple propagation.

This plant cannot be propagated using cuttings; it is only propagated by dividing the parent plant into sections and planting each of these in its own pot. You can either plant the separated sections directly into the soil or, if the roots are fragile or damaged, let the plants root some more in a glass of water before planting them in a pot.

Hopefully this article has taught you some of the basics of Stromanthe Triostar propagation, and you can now grow new Stromanthe plants whenever you need to.

Image: istockphoto.com / PeterEtchells

The schefflera plant is also called the umbrella plant because of the formation of its long, glossy, oval leaves: the way they droop gracefully from their stalk makes them resemble an opened umbrella.

This plant is native to Australia and southern Asia, and feels at home right next to your other tropical plants. They can be grown outdoors, but are only hardy to USDA zone 10.

One of the most common problems encountered by schefflera owners is yellowing of their plant’s leaves. This change in color is triggered by one or more environmental factors that are causing the plant stress.

The possible causes of yellowing leaves on a schefflera are too much sun exposure, too much water, low temperatures, low humidity, too much fertilizer, pests, and natural aging.

In this article, we will discuss each of these causes and what you can do to resolve them. So, if you are experiencing this problem with your schefflera, just keep reading to learn more.

Why are the leaves on my schefflera turning yellow?

Too much sun exposure

Sunburn is the most serious threat to delicate houseplants such as the schefflera: direct sunlight on the leaves can cause them to scorch and develop brownish spots.

Remedy

If you suspect that your plant is exposed to excessive direct sunlight, you should move it to a shadier spot as soon as possible. Remove it from near any window that receives direct sunlight, making sure that it is at least two to three feet away.

Too much sunlight can also dry out the soil in the plant’s pot, so if the soil looks and feels dry, be sure to water it. Trim away the affected leaves, with your hands or a sterile pair of scissors, to prevent further damage or simply to preserve the plant’s aesthetic.

To prevent yellowing leaves in the future, make sure that the plant does not get more than four hours of indirect light per day. If you keep it indoors, choose an east-facing window because this provides indirect light in the morning and is shady in the afternoon.

Once a month, rotate your plant to ensure that it grows evenly on all sides.

Too much water

Overwatering is another common cause of yellowing schefflera leaves. You can overwater a plant by watering it more often than necessary, giving it too much water per watering, using poorly-draining soil or a pot with no drainage holes, or not adjusting your watering habits to changes in the weather, season or climate.

An overwatered schefflera will end up sitting in soggy soil, which stresses the plant’s roots. 

The roots need to dry out between waterings so that they can absorb oxygen, without which the plant will die. They will also be unable to properly absorb nutrients when the soil is constantly waterlogged, and one of the first signs of a nutrient deficiency is yellowing leaves.

After too much time spent in waterlogged soil, the roots will drown and start to rot. They will also be vulnerable to opportunistic pathogens in the soil that will make the root rot spread more aggressively to the rest of the plant, until the entire plant is affected and may even die.

Remedy

If you think that your plant is overwatered, stop watering it until all of the soil has dried out. 

If you suspect that it has developed root rot, you will have to unpot it to check the roots. Remove as much soil as you can from the roots and inspect them closely. If there are brown and black sections, these are rotten; remove them with a sterile pair of scissors until only the healthy, white roots remain.

Half-fill a new pot that has drainage holes with well-draining potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more soil as needed.

Avoid overwatering your plant in the future by checking the moisture in the soil before you water it. Feel whether the top two inches of soil are dry and, if so, water the plant. If the soil is still damp, however, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Low temperatures

The schefflera plant grows best in a warm environment with temperatures ranging from 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures below 60 degrees will cause its growth to stall and result in yellowing leaves.

If the room where you keep the plant is air-conditioned, this cold air can cause the leaves to turn yellow. The same can happen if you leave the plant outside during the winter months, exposing it to freezing temperatures and cold drafts.

Remedy

If you suspect that the yellowing of your plant’s leaves is caused by low temperatures, look for a new spot for your plant where the temperature is stable and within the plant’s preferred range.

If you keep the plant outdoors, take it inside before the frost starts, and keep it there until spring.

The room where the plant is kept should have good ventilation and sufficient lighting.

Keep it away from doors or windows that lead outside, because the cold winter air can make its way through cracks in the doors and windows and this will affect your plant.

Low humidity

The Schefflera is a tropical plant, which means that it thrives in humid conditions. If it is kept in a room where the air is too dry, this can cause its leaves to yellow.

Dry air conditions can be due to the presence of a heater or a dehumidifier. These machines remove moisture from the air and will cause yellowing and drying of your plant’s leaves.

Remedy

If your schefflera’s leaves turn yellow because of low humidity, you will need to take some measures to adjust the humidity level.

You can mist the plant’s leaves with water every once in a while, or you could place the plant’s pot on a tray of pebbles filled with water. As the water evaporates, it will moisten the air around the plant.

If you have other houseplants that like humidity, you can place your schefflera next to them so that together they can create a microclimate around one another.

You can also keep the plant in your kitchen or bathroom, because those are the most humid rooms in the average house.

If you have the means, you can also buy a humidifier, which will automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept. This is ideal for plant owners that are always busy and might not remember to mist their plant or refill a water pebble tray.

Too much fertilizer

The schefflera only needs to be fertilized once a month during the growing season. In the fall and winter, fertilize it every other month, because it is not actively growing during this time and will not be using up as many nutrients and minerals from the soil.

Do not fertilize your plant more than necessary because this can lead to soil toxicity and root burn, symptoms of which include yellowing and browning of the plant’s leaves.

Remedy

If you think that the yellow leaves on your plant are due to overfertilization, you need to flush the soil out with water. Drench it until water starts flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, and continue in this fashion for about five minutes. Then, let any excess water drain out before placing the plant back in its usual spot.

Even if you fertilize your plant properly – just once a month – it can still be a good habit to flush the soil every six months to help prevent any buildup of mineral salts.

Pests

Even though pest infestation is rare in indoor schefflera plants, it is important to know which pests, specifically, cause yellowing leaves.

Pests and insects are natural predators of houseplants, and they can deplete them of nitrogen and moisture, leaving them with yellowing leaves. 

Some of the pests most commonly found on scheffleras are aphids, scale insects and spider mites.

Aphids suck the chlorophyll from the plant’s tissue, resulting in yellow mottling on the leaves.

Scale insects feed on leaves and fruits, and a heavy infestation can result in leaf yellowing and leaf drop.

Spider mites are common on outdoor plants during monsoon season, and yellow and brown spots on the leaves means that the infestation is severe.

Remedy

If your schefflera has a pest infestation, move it to a part of your house that is far away from your other plants. It needs to be quarantined so that the pests cannot spread to your healthy plants.

To remove aphids from leaves and stems, spray the plant with an aphid-control pesticide or wipe it down with rubbing alcohol.

Wipe spider mites and scale insects off the plant with warm soapy water on a paper towel.

Neem oil can also be used to eliminate and control pest infestations. Put some on a cotton pad and wipe down the affected areas of the plant with it.

It is a good habit to inspect your plant’s leaves and stems for pests every time you water it. This will allow you to catch any infestation in its early stages. The smaller the infestation, the easier it will be to contain and eradicate.

Natural aging of the plant

Older schefflera leaves will turn yellow on the underside before falling off to make way for new growth. This is part of the natural life cycle of the leaves.

Natural yellowing should not be a cause for concern, as long as there are only a couple of yellowing leaves per month.

However, if your plant is losing more than a few leaves per month, this could indicate the presence of a more serious problem.

Remedy

Prune away old and dying leaves, always beginning at the bottom and making your way to the top.

Maintaining the optimal living conditions for your plant will help to ensure that it ages naturally and not before its time.

Conclusion

The schefflera, or umbrella plant, is a beautiful houseplant with large, shiny leaves that droop gracefully in an umbrella formation. It is a relatively low-maintenance plant that does not need too much care and attention to thrive.

One of the most common problems in schefflera plants is the yellowing of their leaves. This is due to one or more environmental factors causing the plant stress.

The most probable causes of yellowing schefflera leaves are too much sun exposure, too much water, low temperatures, low humidity, too much fertilizer, pests, and natural aging.

Image: istockphoto.com / Bilal photos

The wandering Jew, or Tradescantia zebrina, is a popular, fast-growing houseplant with variegated silver and iridescent purple leaves growing abundantly from vining stems.

It is a low-maintenance plant native to Mexico and South America, and is commonly grown as ground cover because of the density of its foliage.

One of the most common problems encountered by owners of wandering Jew plants is when their plant turns brown. This color change is due to some environmental factor that is stressing the plant, and the most common of these are underwatering, low humidity, too much sun, and natural aging.

In this article, we will discuss each of these possible causes and what you can do to fix them. So, if you are experiencing this problem with your own wandering Jew, keep reading to learn more about it.

Why is my wandering Jew turning brown?

Underwatering

If your wandering Jew has developed dry, brown leaves, it might be underwatered.

You can tell that the plant is underwatered by checking the soil in its pot. If the soil is very dry and looks like it has shrunk, that means all of the moisture has been depleted.

If you think your wandering Jew is underwatered, you need to water it immediately by soaking all of the soil thoroughly until water starts to flow out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Sometimes, the soil has been dehydrated for so long that the top layer becomes hydrophobic and will repel any water that you pour on it. Instead of being absorbed by the soil, the water will just flow down the sides of the pot and out of the drainage holes, leaving the roots just as thirsty as before. If this is the case, try bottom-watering your plant. Place the pot in a shallow basin filled with three inches of water and leave it there for 10 to 15 minutes. The soil will slowly absorb the water through the holes at the bottom of the pot. After 10 to 15 minutes, remove the pot from the basin and allow it to drain on a rack before placing it back in its usual spot. Your wandering Jew should show signs of recovery after three to four watering cycles.

In order to avoid underwatering your plant in the future, you need to be able to tell when it wants to be watered. Touch the top two inches of soil in the pot and, if the soil is dry, water the plant. If the soil is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Low humidity

Wandering Jew plants prefer moderate levels of humidity and will struggle to thrive in homes with excessively dry air. If you live in a dry climate, your plant’s leaves may start to turn brown, starting from the tips and the edges and spreading to the rest of the leaf if the problem is not addressed.

In the winter, you should be especially cautious about dry air, because central heating and reduced ventilation will further reduce the humidity in your home, making it difficult for your wandering Jew to thrive.

There are some simple methods to increase the humidity in the room where you keep your plant, and to prevent its leaves from turning brown. Misting the plant’s leaves with water is one of the most straightforward methods of increasing the humidity around the plant, albeit only for a short period of time.

A water pebble tray can also be used. Place your wandering Jew on top of a tray filled with small pebbles. Fill the tray with water until the water reaches halfway up the pebbles. As the water evaporates from the tray, it will moisten the air around the plant. If the water in the tray starts to smell bad, just replace it with fresh water.

If you have other houseplants that also like moderate humidity, you can place them next to your wandering Jew so that they can all create a microclimate around each other.

The humidity in your kitchen and bathroom is generally higher than in the other rooms of your home, thanks to the steam from showering and cooking. Putting your plant in these rooms is an easy way to provide it with the moisture it needs. Just make sure that there is adequate lighting in the room, too.

If you have the means, you can also purchase a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity around the plant. This is a great option for those that are always busy and may not  have time to mist the plant or replace the water in a pebble tray.

Too much sun exposure

If your wandering Jew is exposed to bright, direct sunlight every day, you may notice yellow or brown patches appearing on the leaves. This probably means that the plant is being scorched by the intense sunlight. Wandering Jew plants prefer bright, indirect light, and even a few hours under full sunlight can result in significant sun damage.

If you think that your plant’s brown leaves are caused by excessive sun exposure, you will need to move it to a spot where it gets less intense light.

Also check whether the soil in the pot has dried out under the heat of the sun, and if so, water it generously. If you do not want to wait for the brown leaves to fall off on their own, you can prune them off to preserve the plant’s aesthetic.

Place the plant next to an east-facing window: these windows let in bright, indirect light in the morning and shade in the afternoon. 

If the only windows in your home let in harsh light, you can still keep your plant near them, but place a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the light’s intensity.

Natural aging

When it comes to losing leaves through aging, wandering Jews are a little different to many other houseplants. As they grow longer, wandering Jews struggle to maintain the health of their middle leaves, which are typically the oldest, and these middle leaves will begin to turn brown before falling off.

The best course of action is to prune the vines back to a point above the browning area and to propagate the healthy surviving stems. You can either replant the propagated vines in the same pot with the mother plant, or start over with a fresh wandering Jew in its own pot.

Wandering Jew plant care

Light  requirements

The wandering Jew requires plenty of bright, indirect light to maintain its leaves’ variegated colors. If the lighting is too dim, the colors on the leaves will start to fade.

Do not expose the plant to direct sunlight, because this can lead to leaf scorching.

If you live in a place where sunlight is scarce for a few months each year, you can help your plant out with a grow light.

Watering requirements

The wandering Jew can tolerate periods of drought better than some other plants, so you do not need to water it very often. To know whether the plant needs to be watered, poke your finger into the top two inches of soil. If the soil is dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

During the warmer months, the plant is actively growing and will require more frequent watering. In the winter, when its growth is much slower, it will naturally need less water.

Humidity  requirements

The wandering Jew plant likes moderate humidity, which is present inside most homes anyway. But, if you live in a particularly dry area, you may need to take certain measures to increase the humidity around your plant.

As mentioned above, you can mist the plant once in a while, use a water pebble tray, place the plant next to other humidity-loving plants, keep it in the kitchen or bathroom, or use a humidifier in the room.

Fertilizer requirements

Fertilize your wandering Jew only once or twice a year, at the most. If you give it fertilizer too frequently, the variegation on the leaves will fade. Over-fertilization can also lead to root burn and soil toxicity.

If you suspect that you have overfertilized your plant, flush the soil with water to remove any mineral salts that have built up around the roots. 

Temperature  requirements

Wandering Jews thrive in temperatures between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Provided the temperature around the plant does not get any lower than 50 degrees, the plant should still be happy.

Do not leave it outdoors in the frost, because such low temperatures will kill it. Keep the plant indoors until the start of spring, in stable room temperature and protected from the elements.

Conclusion

The wandering Jew plant, orTradescantia zebrina, is a fast-growing houseplant native to Mexico and parts of South America. It has beautiful, purple and silvery, variegated leaves.

This plant is typically grown as a groundcover, but it can be kept indoors as a houseplant because of its pretty foliage.

One of the most common problems encountered by owners of wandering Jew plants is when their plant starts turning brown. The most common causes of this change in color are insufficient watering, low humidity, too much sun exposure, and the plant’s natural aging process.

The sooner you can determine the exact cause of the problem, the faster you will resolve the issue and return your plant to full health.

Image: istockphoto.com / pixynook

Monstera plants are popular houseplants known for the signature splits, or fenestrations, in their leaves. The leaves are also typically large and vibrant green in color, adding to their aesthetic and making them a great centerpiece for any living space.

If these signature splits are not present on a monstera’s leaves, it may be a cause for concern for the plant’s owner. Their absence can be due to a few possible causes, such as not enough light, the time of year, incorrect watering, or the plant might just be too young at the time.

In this article, we will discuss each of these causes, and what you can do to resolve the issue. So, if you are facing a similar issue and you wish to learn more about it, just keep on reading.

Why do monstera leaves have splits?

To tolerate high winds

The monstera’s natural habitat is characterized by a lack of wind, thanks to the tall tree canopies that provide protection to the growth below.

However, monsteras are also invasive plants that can adapt and thrive in most environments. Thus, when growing in your home garden, for example, leaf splitting allows these plants to adapt more effectively to windy conditions, and protects them from being knocked over by strong gusts.

Sunlight is better absorbed

Sunlight is essential for the healthy growth of green plants. It is an ingredient in the production of their food and also improves the roots’ absorption of water from the soil.

The fenestrations in the monstera’s leaves allow them to spread out, increasing the surface area available to capture the scattered sun rays that penetrate the dense rainforest canopy. The holes also allow the sunlight to pass through the upper leaves and reach the lower leaves of the plant.

Reduced water accumulation on the leaves

The monstera’s natural habitat sees a lot of rain, which makes it a great place for the plant to live. The splits on its leaves help to keep the rain from accumulating on them and weighing them down and diverting the water to the nodes and root areas instead. 

Wet leaves are known to cause a great deal of trouble for a plant, including rotting, fungal growth, and bacterial diseases. 

Why do my monstera’s leaves have no splits?

Not enough light

Your monstera is likely suffering from lack of light if it is mature enough to have produced split leaves in the past, but has since stopped producing them. Monsteras can survive in low light conditions, but they will not thrive. The development of their infamous fenestrations requires several hours of bright, indirect light per day, for several weeks.

When it comes to positioning your monstera, an east- or south-facing window is the best choice, although a north-facing window will suffice if that is your only option. West-facing windows should be approached with caution because they receive a lot of direct sunlight in the afternoon, which may cause the leaves to wilt. Ideally, you want to find the right combination of light and shade, but not direct sunlight, as this will cause the leaves to burn. You can also use a light meter to determine how much sunlight your plant receives at different times of the day.

If your home does not have enough natural light, or if you do not have a suitable location for your monstera that is close to a window, there is an alternative solution. You can use a grow light to supplement the amount of light reaching your plant. These can be purchased as fixtures in their own right, but you can also purchase grow light bulbs to insert into a lamp that you already own.

Time of year

While monsteras’ growth is largely halted during the winter months, any new leaves that do emerge will have few, if any, holes in them. This is simply due to the difference in light levels between the darker months and the brighter months of the year. Do not be concerned if your monstera produces solid leaves, or even if it produces no new leaves at all, during the winter months. This is completely normal and it will begin to thrive again in the spring and summer if given the proper care.

If you are concerned that light levels are dropping too low in the winter, an LED grow light is a good option to supplement natural light levels, though it is not required in most cases.

Incorrect watering

While insufficient light is the most common reason for your monstera’s failure to produce split leaves, improper watering or fertilization may also be a contributing factor. While you should ensure that your monstera receives adequate irrigation so that the soil does not dry out for extended periods, you must also be aware that it will not tolerate sitting in soggy soil, either. 

You want to water your monstera when it is necessary, rather than when it is convenient, and to create an environment as close as possible to its natural habitat. Too much or too little water can be detrimental to its health and development, in which case it may never reach the level of maturity necessary to produce split leaves. 

There are a few things you can do to ensure that your monstera is getting the proper amount of water, such as using a self-watering pot. These pots are perfect for people who do not have a lot of time to spend caring for their plants, as you can set them up once and then forget about them. The use of a water monitor can also help you determine when to water your monstera.

Clay and terracotta pots are much better for the health of your plant than plastic pots, as they allow some of the moisture to evaporate through their walls. Plastic pots, because they are not porous, hold all of the moisture in the soil. 

When it comes to fertilizing the plant, only do so during the warmer growing period, as excessive fertilization during the winter months can stunt its growth.

The plant might just be too young at the moment

If you have a monstera that is only a few years old, do not be discouraged if the leaves do not have any fenestrations just yet. It can take up to two or three years for the plant to mature to the point where splits start appearing. Young monsteras have solid, heart-shaped leaves and thinner stems, while older plants have softer, rounder leaves. Just be patient and ensure that you are providing the proper care for your monstera, and it should begin to develop the distinctive splits when the time is right. 

Monstera plant care

Light requirements

This plant likes bright, indirect sunlight and temperatures that remain consistently between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Too much direct sunlight can cause foliage to burn. 

Monsteras can be grown in the full shade of deeply wooded areas or in the semi-shade of lightly wooded areas if grown outside in nature.

Soil requirements

A peat-based potting medium is best for your monstera to become established in a container. It can be grown outdoors in light sandy, medium loamy, and heavy clay soils with pH values ranging from acid to neutral; however, it grows best in well-draining, moderately moist soil.

Water requirements

During the growing season, water your plant once or twice a week, depending on how thirsty it is. Fill the container with water until the excess water drains through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Between waterings, allow the soil to dry out a little before watering again. During the fall and winter, the plant will only need a small amount of water. 

You can also use a spray bottle filled with demineralized water or rainwater to mist the plant’s foliage occasionally because monsteras prefer above-average humidity.

Fertilizer requirements

During the growing season, feed your plant every few weeks with a balanced liquid 20-20-20 fertilizer. Dissolve half a teaspoon of fertilizer in a gallon of water, and use this mixture instead of regular water when you water the plant. 

Conclusion

Monsteras are a popular genus of houseplants known for their huge, green, distinctively-fenestrated, or split, leaves.

The splits on the monstera’s leaves help the plant absorb more light, make it able to tolerate high winds and help direct rainwater away from the plant’s foliage and toward its roots for better absorption.

One of the most common problems encountered by monstera owners is when their plants’ leaves do not develop their signature splits. The most common reasons for this are not enough light, the time of year, incorrect watering, or the plant might be too young to develop fenestrations.

It is up to you to determine which of these causes is at play in the case of your plant so that you can take the necessary measures to fix the issue as soon as possible.

Image: istockphoto.com / Techa Tungateja

Alocasia Polly, or the African mask plant, is a popular houseplant known for its large, beautiful leaves that elevate the decor in any living space they grace. It is a tropical plant that can be grown both indoors and outdoors.

This plant has tuberous roots called rhizomes from which its humongous leaves grow, and separating some of these rhizomes from the parent plant is a way of propagating it. Knowing how to correctly propagate your Alocasia Polly will enable you to have more of the same plant at no extra cost. You can then keep these new plants for yourself, or give them away as gifts to your family and friends.

In this article, we are going to discuss how to propagate Alocasia Polly, so if you are interested to learn more about this process, just keep on reading.

How to propagate Alocasia Polly

Dividing the rhizomes

To begin, decide whether you will be using soil or water as your medium, and prepare your work area so that the plant’s roots are not exposed for any longer than necessary during the process.

Remove your Alocasia from its pot with care, shaking off any excess dirt as you go.

You can soak or spray the roots to remove any densely-packed soil that has built up around them.

Examine your plant and select a few healthy offshoots to separate from it. To ensure that the baby plants recover as quickly as possible, they should each have at least three leaves.

Remove the babies by gently separating their roots from those of the mother plant. In the event of tangles, a sterilized knife or scissors can be used to cut them apart.

Having separated all of the offshoots you intend to use, take a moment to inspect the root systems of both the mother plant and each of the plantlets for signs of disease.

Although now is an excellent time to prune away the sickly roots, it is important not to become overzealous and damage the healthy roots.

When dividing a plant, it is possible to end up with an offshoot that has only a few roots, or even none at all, as a result of an error. Fortunately, you can revive this offshoot by injecting it with a small amount of rooting hormone before transplanting it to a new medium. If using water propagation, you have the option of adding the hormone directly to the water.

While the plants are rerooting, keep an eye on them and make sure they are not disturbed. The process takes about four to six weeks, on average.

Alocasia soil propagation

Soil propagation is the most commonly used method of propagation today.

In order to avoid root rot, make sure the container you choose has good drainage, and use a good-quality soil mix.

We recommend a mixture of equal parts general potting mix, coco coir or peat, and sand or perlite for best results. This mixture ensures that the soil does not dry out too quickly or too slowly, while also providing a favorable environment for root growth.

Gently place the plantlet in its new pot, covering the roots with soil, and then moisten with a small amount of distilled water. The plantlet will likely experience transplant shock, and it will be several weeks before any new growth appears.

Place the pot in a location that receives bright, indirect light, and you will soon be enjoying some lush new alocasias in your home.

Alocasia water propagation

Water can be used as a temporary or permanent medium of propagation and is frequently used for plants that have lost their root systems during division or transplantation.

If there is any remaining soil, you will need to gently rinse it away. Use room temperature, and distilled water to minimize the risk of damage.

In order to view the roots, many people prefer to use a clear glass vase; however, a ceramic vase will also work for baby Alocasia’s new home.

Fill the vase halfway with room temperature, distilled water or rainwater, and carefully place the plantlet inside so that the roots are completely submerged.

Place the vase in a location that receives bright, indirect sunlight to avoid the growth of algae, and refill the vase with water as needed.

At the same time as feeding the mother plant, give your plantlets a thorough water change and mix in some liquid fertilizer to the freshwater.

Alocasia Polly care

Light requirements

Alocasias require a lot of bright, indirect light to thrive. They can survive in 80 percent shade, but prefer 60 percent shade, which will ensure the best growth and a rich, green shade on the leaves. Take care not to expose the plant to direct sunlight, which can cause the leaves to bleach or scorch if exposed for an extended period of time.

Soil requirements

This plant prefers potting soil that drains quickly and is well aerated. The ideal soil is one that is organic, loose, and contains a significant amount of peat moss. The addition of some sand or perlite will help to lighten the soil mixture if it is too heavy.

Water requirements

Maintain some soil moisture for your Alocasia, but keep in mind that it does not tolerate wet feet. If at all possible, water your plant first thing in the morning, from below, to avoid getting the leaves too waterlogged. During the winter, the plant requires a period of rest, so allow the soil to become almost completely dry between waterings during these months. That said, the plant may go dormant if the soil dries out completely.

Temperature and humidity requirements

Alocasia is a tropical plant and will go dormant or die if exposed to below-freezing temperatures. It prefers a climate similar to that of its native Southeast Asian home region, with temperatures ranging between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Furthermore, it thrives in environments with higher than average humidity. A good idea is to keep it in a typically humid room of your home, such as a bathroom, but you may also need to place the pot on a humidity tray filled with pebbles and water, or purchase a small space humidifier to keep the room humid and the plant healthy.

Fertilizer requirements

During its growing period, the Alocasia is a heavy feeder and responds well to applications of diluted, balanced fertilizer, such as urea. Starting in the spring, feed the plant every two weeks until the end of August, and restart the cycle at the beginning of the following spring. Occasionally, the plant’s leaves will turn yellow; if this occurs, try feeding it with a fertilizer that contains micronutrients, or sprinkling Epsom salts around the plant’s base once a month.

Conclusion

Alocasia Polly is a beautiful plant with large, striking leaves that make it a great addition to indoor decor.

It is a tropical plant and therefore has a specific set of care requirements that must be met as closely as possible in order to keep the plant happy.

This plant can be propagated by dividing some rhizomes from the parent plant. The procedure is quite simple and, if you are able to do it correctly, you can start with one Alocasia Polly plant and end up with multiple plants to keep for yourself or give to friends and family.

Image: istockphoto.com / Jamaludin Yusup

Pileas are a genus of over 600 tropical plants native to most parts of the world except Australia and New Zealand. The genus includes trailing varieties as well as those that grow upright and into more of a bush.

These plants are typically very easy to grow and care for, which is why they are often given as starter plants to those who are just beginning their plant collections. They are low-maintenance, require minimal attention, and can be grown both indoors and outdoors.

Depending on the variety, a pilea can have moss-like foliage, heart-shaped leaves, or even leaves shaped like swords. No matter the shape of the leaves, they are all susceptible to one of the most common problems encountered by pilea owners, which is the curling of the leaves.

Curling pilea leaves are the result of one or more environmental factors that are causing plant stress. The most common causes are too much water and poor drainage, not enough water, excessive light and heat, low light, low humidity, and crowded roots.

In this article, we will discuss each of these causes and what you can do to resolve them.

So, if you are currently experiencing this problem, keep reading to learn how to fix it.

Why are the leaves on my pilea curling?

Too much water and poor drainage

Changes in the water content of your plant’s leaves can cause a significant alteration in their shape. If you overwater your plant, the leaves will absorb more water than is necessary, resulting in the distortion of their normal flat shape and leaving them curled instead.

If you suspect that overwatering is the cause of your pilea’s curling leaves, look for other signs of overwatering, such as yellowing leaves, water pooling in the drip tray, or root rot.

Using a pot that is too large for the plant, or a pot with few or no drainage holes, also predisposes it to overwater. Other factors include planting in poorly-draining soil and growing your plant in cool, dimly-lit conditions which reduce the evaporation rate of moisture from the soil.

If your plant is overwatered, reduce the amount of water it receives, and always allow the top two inches of soil to dry out before watering it again.

Prolonged overwatering can lead to root rot, a condition that is extremely difficult to remedy. If you suspect that your plant may have root rot, you will need to unpot it and inspect the roots. If there are any that have turned brown or black, they are rotten and will have to be removed using sterile pruning shears.

After removing the rotten roots, repot the plant in fresh potting mix and make sure not to overwater it again to avoid the same problem going forward.

When it comes to soil drainage, you can easily increase it by mixing in a small amount of perlite; this will make it easier for water to flow through and out of the drainage holes in your pot, and will make your plant much happier. Adding a few small stones or pebbles to the bottom of the pot is another simple step that will ensure the drainage holes are never obstructed by soil or other loose debris.

In addition, we recommend using terracotta pots rather than plastic ones. Plastic is a non-porous material and thus prevents any moisture from escaping through the walls of the pot.

Not enough water

Underwatering is another problem that can cause your pilea’s leaves to curl and become distorted. When there is a lack of water, the leaves will curl in order to reduce their surface area, thus reducing water loss through transpiration.

Although we have mentioned that you should allow the top two inches of soil to dry out before watering your plant, you should also not let the soil dry out completely, otherwise, the plant will begin to wilt. Check on the plant every few days and water it when it is thirsty, rather than on a regular schedule.

It is also possible that inconsistent watering may contribute to leaf curling; this is more likely to result in a combination of upward- and downward-curling leaves. Water scarcity followed by an abundance causes the leaves to attempt to conserve water, only to absorb more water than necessary almost simultaneously. Repeated cycles of this can result in the leaves becoming noticeably deformed.

It has also been observed that pilea leaves can sometimes split if the plant is not watered consistently. As the leaf transitions from being curled upwards and dehydrated to being filled with water, its edges are subjected to significant strain and may even break off completely. Naturally, this will affect the plant’s aesthetic.

Excessive light and heat

Additionally, your pilea’s leaves may be curling as a result of receiving a little too much light or getting too hot. The ideal location is inside a bright room, possibly near an east-facing window if available.

To ensure that the air in the room is properly circulated, open the windows on a regular basis. This reduces the likelihood of hotspots developing around the plant. The ideal temperature range for a pilea is between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, so maintaining a consistent temperature should not be too difficult. You can always purchase a digital thermometer or a light meter to check the temperature and light levels for added peace of mind.

Low light conditions

One of the most common causes of outward leaf curl, also known as doming, is a lack of light. For the leaf to form this dome shape, the outer edges curl back as the center pushes forward. This is so that as much surface area as possible is exposed to the available light, in order to maximize photosynthesis potential.

If a pilea is kept in low light for an extended period of time, the leaves will develop significant outward curling. They will flatten out again over several weeks once the plant has been moved to a spot where it can get plenty of bright, indirect light.

It is important to note, however, that while your pilea likes a bright location, it should be kept away from direct sunlight, which can cause the leaves to scorch. Also remember that light levels fluctuate according to the season and weather outside, so you may need to move your plant several times throughout the year.

If you live in a place where natural sunlight is scarce for certain months of the year, you may need to invest in a grow light to support the plant’s requirements.

Low humidity

It is worth experimenting with increasing the humidity a little bit in your home if your air is typically dry. It is possible that this is causing the curling of your pilea’s leaves. 

When it comes to raising the humidity, there are a few really simple techniques you can use, such as spraying the leaves with a mist bottle every few days or placing the plant on a tray filled with water and some pebbles. You can also keep the plant in a room with high humidity, such as the kitchen or the bathroom. If you have other plants that like humidity, try grouping your pilea with them so that they can all create a microclimate around each other.

Probably the most straightforward method of increasing humidity is to purchase a humidifier. This is an inexpensive device that will automatically regulate the humidity around your plants.

If you are concerned about keeping track of the room’s humidity, you can also invest in a humidity monitor. 

Finally, make sure to keep your pilea as far away from air conditioning units as possible, as these produce extremely dry air that can dry them out.

Crowded roots

You should check your pilea for root crowding from time to time because it has the potential to cause a variety of problems. To check this, allow the soil to dry out for a couple of days after watering the plant, and then gently lift it out of its pot. If all you can see are roots, then overcrowding is likely the cause of your plant’s curling leaves. Pick up an appropriately sized pot and some more nutritious soil and gently comb through the roots with a chopstick to separate them a little before repotting your plant with a little more room to grow.

If you discover, having unpotted the plant, that some of the roots have turned brown and soft, you may be dealing with the much more serious problem of root rot, which can be fatal. If this is the case, remove all of the infected roots before repotting the plant and, if you have caught the rot in time, it should return to health.

Pilea plant care

Light requirements

The majority of pilea species prefer bright, indirect light. Avoid exposing them to direct summer sunlight, as this can cause the leaves to burn. A bright windowsill is an ideal location for indoor plants. Try to rotate the pot at least once a week; it might grow lopsided otherwise, as the shaded side of the plant stretches toward the sun. Pileas can withstand a degree of low light conditions, but their foliage will turn a darker green and become leggy as a result.

If you live in a place where natural sunlight is scarce at certain times of the year, you might need to get a grow light to support your plant’s light requirements.

Soil requirements

Pilea plants prefer a well-draining potting mix that is moderately rich in nutrients. Soggy soil can cause root rot, which can ultimately kill a plant. An African violet-specific potting mix, such as one made of peat moss with added leaf mold and perlite, is ideal.

Make sure that the pot you are using has drainage holes at the bottom to allow any excess water to flow out, rather than staying inside the pot. This will significantly decrease the chances of overwatering and root rot.

Watering requirements

Pileas require a moderate to high amount of water. When the top two inches of soil begin to dry out, water the plant immediately. If you notice the leaves drooping, this is an indication that the plant is thirsty. 

Remember that, in hot weather, you will most likely have to water your plant more frequently. Be sure to adjust your watering habits to changes in the weather, season and climate.

Temperature and humidity requirements

Generally speaking, pileas prefer temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and frost can be fatal to them. Temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for those kept indoors. Place your plant away from any vents that may blow extremely cold or hot air, as this can be damaging. 

Pileas thrive in environments with moderate to high humidity and can be grown in terrariums.

As we mentioned above, mist the leaves every once in a while, place the plant in a humid part of the house, use a water pebble tray, group it with other humidity-loving plants, or buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity around your plant.

Fertilizer requirements

When pileas are grown outdoors in their natural growing environment, it is rarely necessary to fertilize them. For those growing in containers, use a liquid houseplant fertilizer at half strength, once in the spring and once in the summer, depending on the climate.

Do not fertilize the plant in the winter when it is not actively growing; this can lead to an accumulation of unused minerals in the soil which causes soil toxicity and root burn.

If you think you may have overfertilized your plant, flush out the excess minerals by pouring water into the soil and letting it flow through, repeating the process several times.

Conclusion

Pileas are a genus of houseplants that are popular starter plants for novice gardeners because they are so easy to grow and care for.

These plants are native to all regions of the world except for Australia and New Zealand, and can be bushy or trailing, depending on the species. They grow well as both indoor or outdoor plants.

One of the most common problems encountered by pilea owners is curling leaves. This is a sign that an environmental factor is causing the plant stress, and you will need to determine the cause of the problem in order to resolve it as soon as possible.

The most common causes of curling pilea leaves are too much water and poor drainage, not enough water, excessive light and heat, low light, low humidity, and crowded roots.

Image: istockphoto.com / patnowa

Monstera plants are some of the most popular houseplants in the United States. They are coveted by plant lovers for their beautiful leaves that have holes, or fenestrations, that develop as the leaves mature. Some monsteras also have variegation on their leaves, which gives them striking and unique color patterns.

They are native to tropical climates and are accustomed to specific living conditions that you should be aware of before acquiring one of these plants.

Monsteras make great indoor plants, bringing an instant pop of color and life to any living space. However, a common problem encountered by monstera owners is when the plant starts to droop.

A droopy monstera is a sign that there is an environmental factor causing plant stress. Establishing exactly the cause of the problem is the first step toward returning it to health.

The most probable causes of droopy monstera leaves are too much or not enough light, underwatering, overwatering, pests, temperature changes, too much fertilizer, or humidity problems.

In this article, we will discuss each of these causes as well as how to fix them.

Why is my monstera droopy?

Too much or not enough light

If your monstera is placed in a spot where it gets too much sunlight, this can lead to drooping.

Some plant owners believe their plants will grow faster if placed in a sunny spot. This is not true, because monsteras are tropical plants that live under a canopy of trees in the rainforest and are only ever exposed to the dappled light that filters through this canopy.

Direct sunlight is not suitable for your monstera; the intense light and heat can cause the plant to dry out, weaken and become droopy.

Direct light can also cause the soil in the plant’s pot to dry out too quickly, which can lead to drought stress. This will also contribute to drooping.

However, even though your monstera wants nothing to do with intense, direct light, that does not mean you can keep it in constantly low-light conditions, either.

All plants need light – it is essential to the process of photosynthesis. Without light, the plant will not be able to produce chlorophyll, and its leaves will become pale and droopy.

A common indication that your monstera is lacking in light is when it starts to grow asymmetrically, in the direction of its nearest light source. This is called etiolation. The plant is so desperate for light that it will literally stretch toward the light by concentrating its limited resources into growing toward the nearest light source.

Etiolation does not harm the plant, but it does have an effect on its overall aesthetic. If you continue to deprive the plant of the light that it needs, it will slowly die from being unable to photosynthesize adequately.

If you think your monstera is drooping because it is getting too much light, transfer it to a shadier spot immediately. You can place it under a large tree or on your patio or porch.

Monsteras prefer bright, indirect light, so a spot where they can be in the shade for several hours a day is ideal. If the soil in the pot feels dry from being under the sun for too long, water it. Make sure to soak all of the soil in the pot to the point that the excess water flows out of the drainage holes at the bottom.

If, on the other hand, you think your plant is droopy because it is not getting enough light, transfer it to a spot where it can get more light. If you are keeping it indoors, place it next to a north- or east-facing window. These windows let in gentler light throughout the day. If the only window available lets in harsh light, you can still place the plant next to it, but you will have to place a sheer curtain over the window to reduce the intensity of the light.

If you live in a place where natural light is scarce for some months of the year, you can use a grow light as an alternative to support the plant’s light requirements.

Not enough water

Another reason your monstera might be droopy is that it is not getting as much water as it needs and is therefore drying out.

Monsteras are tropical plants, which means that they are accustomed to getting an abundance of rainwater in their natural habitat. While they are more forgiving of drying out than some other plants, that does not mean you can neglect to water them whenever you want to.

These plants need water not only to preserve the moisture content in their bodies; they also use water as a vessel to transport nutrients from the soil into their roots. If there is no water in the soil, your plant will be unable to absorb the important elements it needs to survive.

This is why it becomes droopy and weak when it is not watered sufficiently.

If the soil in the pot is dry to the touch, you should water your plant immediately. There are two ways of doing this: You can water from the top until all of the soil is soaked and you can see excess water draining from the bottom of the pot. This works well for plants whose soil has not dried out to the point where it becomes impenetrable to water. 

If, however, the monstera’s soil has dried out so much that the topsoil has become hydrophobic, you can try the soak method. Place the plant’s pot in a tray or basin with about two inches of water and leave it there for an hour. Allow the soil to absorb the water through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This is a better method for a plant in this condition because it ensures that the soil will get properly wet and all the roots will have access to water.

After soaking the plant for an hour, place the pot on a rack to allow the excess water to drain for a couple of minutes before returning the plant to its usual spot.

The best way to avoid underwatering is to know exactly when to water your monstera. There are many factors that can affect the speed at which the soil dries out, so the best way to work it out is by touching the soil with your fingers. If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

Too much water

Even though monsteras are tropical plants that like to be watered more often than most, they can still be badly damaged if they are overwatered for a long period of time.

There are plenty of factors that can lead to overwatering. You could be giving the plant more water than necessary each time you water it, watering it more often than necessary, using a poorly-draining potting medium or pot, or not adjusting your watering habits to changes in the weather, season, or climate.

When a monstera is overwatered, its leaves and vines can become soft and mushy, and the leaves will turn yellow or brown. The soft and mushy texture comes about because the water in the soil has nowhere to go, so the plant ends up absorbing water to the point that the cells in its tissues burst from the overload. This excess water also makes the leaves and vines heavier, thus contributing to droopiness.

The change in leaf color is most likely due to the roots becoming so damaged that they can no longer do their job of absorbing nutrients and minerals from the soil. This will make the plant weak and discolored from nutrient deficiency.

A serious consequence of overwatering is root rot. This is a condition caused by prolonged exposure of the roots to waterlogged soil so that they eventually suffocate and die. Plant roots need time between waterings to dry out and absorb oxygen; being in constantly wet soil inhibits this and will kill them.

The drowned and dead roots will start to rot and will be susceptible to opportunistic pathogens, such as fungi and bacteria, which can make them rot more aggressively and cause them to spread even faster to the rest of the plant. Before you know it, the entire plant will be affected by the rot and may die.

If you think that your monstera is drooping due to overwatering, stop watering it immediately and move it to a sunnier spot with good air circulation so that the soil can dry out quickly. Do not water the plant again until all of the soil has dried out.

If you suspect root rot, remove the plant from its pot and wash off as much soil as you can from the roots. The roots will be fragile, so it is important to be careful not to damage them during this process.

Once the roots are visible, inspect them all for sections that are brown or black in color; those are rotten and will have to be removed. Use a sterile knife or pair of scissors to cut off the rotten roots until only healthy, white roots remain.

Then, lay the plant on a dry surface to allow the roots to air-dry for a few hours, and fill a new pot halfway with a well-draining potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more potting medium.

Place the plant in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light, and good airflow, and do not water it again until the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch.

If you are keeping the plant outdoors, make sure that it does not get soaked by rain for days on end. If it has been raining for some time, take the plant onto your porch or patio to give it a break from all the water.

The only way to prevent overwatering in the future is by developing good watering habits, as discussed above, and understanding the needs of your monstera.

Pests

The presence of pests and insects on your monstera can also lead to its foliage becoming droopy. Most pests cause drooping foliage by feeding on the plant’s sap, essentially dehydrating the plant.

The larger the infestation, the more damage is inflicted; the plant’s growth can even become stunted by a pest infestation. Its leaves can also become deformed, and the areas where the insects have fed on the leaves will become discolored and might develop brown spots on their surfaces.

The presence of pests can also keep the plant from absorbing the moisture that it needs to remain healthy. The longer the pests are allowed to stay on your monstera untreated, the higher the possibility of the plant dying.

If you notice the leaves on your monstera drooping, take a closer look at the vines and the undersides of the leaves to check for the presence of pests. The earlier you can detect them, the smaller their population will be, and the easier they will be to control.

Before considering commercially available insecticides, you may want to try some organic pest control methods.

Place your plant in the shower and spray the leaves and vines with a steady stream of water to knock the pests off. The water will also wash off the honeydew that the insects secrete on the leaves, which attracts other insects. Make sure you dry the plant well after washing it, because moisture on the foliage if left for too long, can encourage the growth of fungi.

You can also use neem oil to kill the pests. Pour some neem oil onto a cotton pad and wipe the plant’s leaves and vines with it. Neem oil works by disrupting the circulatory system of pests, thereby killing them.

You can also apply the neem oil via a spray solution. Mix two tablespoons of neem oil into a spray bottle of water and spray this mixture on the affected areas of the plant. Repeat the application every three days until you are sure that all of the pests have been eradicated.

Another method is to spray the affected areas with rubbing alcohol. This can kill the pests while being gentle enough to the plant when applied sparingly.

Temperature changes

Your plant’s leaves cannot withstand drastic temperature fluctuations. If the temperature falls below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant will begin to show signs of stress, including droopy and brown leaves, and stunted growth.

Your monstera can be affected by cold temperatures due to your local climate, the season of the year, or current weather conditions. Cold wind from air conditioning or cold drafts coming in through cracks in windows and doors can also have a negative effect.

If the plant is kept in a room with cold temperatures, its soil will also slowly dry out and this can also contribute to drooping and curling leaves. Try to keep the room temperature between 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Too much fertilizer

It is wonderful to care for your plants, but excessive feeding is not beneficial for them. Overfertilization causes an excess of mineral salts in the soil, which could kill any beneficial microorganisms in the soil. While it may accelerate the growth of your monstera, the plant will be deprived of the nutrients it requires.

Increased feeding only attracts more problems, such as curling leaves, brown tips, brown blotches, root rot, fungal growth, and other issues.

Your monstera is a vigorous grower, so you can fertilize it every two weeks to once a month during the summer to provide the nutrients it needs to thrive. Fertilize every two months during the fall and winter.

To reduce the chances of overfertilization, try to use an organic fertilizer. If you choose to use a commercial fertilizer, dilute it to half-strength so that it is not as potent.

Humidity problems

Tropical plants are accustomed to high humidity levels in their natural habitat, and a lack of humidity will cause the luster of your monstera’s foliage to diminish.

It is not recommended to keep monsteras near vents, fireplaces, or drafty windows because the airflow and warmth will cause sudden changes in humidity around the plant. The monstera’s leaves will lose their moisture at an accelerated pace, resulting in drooping.

If your plant is displaying signs of stress due to low humidity, keep a humidifier close by to keep the humidity levels more consistent.

You can also group your plant with other houseplants so that they all create a microclimate around each other, or place the plant on top of a water pebble tray. As the water evaporates, it will add moisture to the air around the plant.

Conclusion

Monsteras are popular vining houseplants prized for their attractive, fenestrated leaves. They are tropical plants and therefore have a specific set of requirements when it comes to their living conditions.

One of the most common problems in monstera plants is drooping. If your monstera has become droopy, it is likely due to an environmental factor that is causing the plant stress.

The most common causes of a droopy monstera are too much light, underwatering, overwatering, pests, temperature changes, too much fertilizer, or humidity problems.

The sooner you are able to determine the cause of the drooping, the sooner you can apply the correct treatment measures to salvage your plant.

Image: istockphoto.com / Galina Burgart

Philodendron Birkin is a popular houseplant known for its beautiful, dark green leaves that have yellowish or cream-colored variegation. The lighter colors are spread across the leaves as if a paintbrush had been gently dragged across them.

Although this plant may look delicate, it is actually quite easy to grow and care for, as long as you have done your research regarding the specific cultural care it needs to survive and to thrive.

In this article, we will tackle everything there is to know about caring for this majestic plant, so if you are planning on adding a Philodendron Birkin to your collection, just keep reading.

Philodendron care

Watering requirements

A Philodendron Birkin should be watered once the top two inches of soil are completely dry, which is usually about once a week. It is important to avoid overwatering the plant so that the soil does not become waterlogged. Overwatering is a common problem for philodendrons, so the practice of waiting for the top two inches of soil to dry out is an easy way to keep from watering your plant when you do not actually need to.

To check the moisture level of the soil, stick your left index finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. Remove that finger from the soil and stick your right index finger into the same hole, also up to the second knuckle. Having removed your right index finger from the hole, look at the soil or dirt sticking to the finger. If the finger is dry with minimal soil on it, that means the top two inches of soil have dried out. If there is wet soil sticking to the tip of your finger, you may need to wait one or two more days before checking the soil again.

Try not to allow the soil to dry out too much below two inches from the surface, or you risk drying it out to the point that the plant becomes underwatered.

When you water this plant, make sure that all of the soil gets soaked. You will know this has been achieved when you see excess water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

It is important to actively adjust your watering techniques to changes in the weather, season and climate, as these factors affect the plant’s requirements.

Light requirements

Bright, indirect light is ideal for your Philodendron Birkin. You want to create a similar environment to the plant’s natural habitat, which is under a tropical forest canopy.

Leaves that are exposed to direct sunlight for an extended period of time will turn yellow or brown, curl up, wrinkle, and fall off. This is due to damage from the sun’s intense heat and light.

That said, your Birkin is equally vulnerable to the dangers of too much shade. This can cause the plant to become leggy, which will make the stems sag. The Philodendron Birkin, like all plants, needs light in order to survive. Light deprivation for prolonged periods will eventually kill the plant.

If you are growing your Philodendron Birkin indoors, place it next to a north- or east-facing window. These windows let in bright light in the morning, but will be shady by the afternoon when the sun is at its hottest.

If the only windows in your home let in harsh light, you can still place your plant near them, but place a curtain over the window to reduce the light’s intensity.

If you live in a place where sunlight is scarce for a few months each year, you can use a grow light on the plant for 12 hours per day, but make sure not to exceed that time.

Soil requirements

The Birkin’s soil should be well-draining but not too loose. It must also retain enough water to satisfy the plant’s moisture requirements.

Excess water must be able to drain easily to prevent the roots getting wet feet. Wet feet always result in root rot, which could mean the death of the plant.

Philodendron Birkin grows best in an aroid mix that contains peat moss, perlite, charcoal, orchid bark and potting soil.

Peat moss has a coarse and airy texture, and retains water due to this texture. Potting soil added into the mix can also help to retain some moisture to satiate the plant until its next watering. Perlite, charcoal and orchid bark will all promote good drainage and airflow, so that the roots are able to breathe and rot is prevented.

Temperature and humidity requirements

Because it is a tropical plant, the Birkin thrives in a warm, humid environment.

The best temperature for it is anywhere between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, which is roughly room temperature. At night, the temperature should be 60 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature of the room should never fall below 55 degrees Fahrenheit, as the plant does not do well in low temperatures for long periods.

With regard to humidity, it should be 60 percent or higher for a Philodendron Birkin. These plants thrive in high humidity, similar to the conditions in their natural habitat.

They can also survive in moderate humidity, but the closer to ideal the humidity is, the healthier the plant will be.

Humidity becomes a huge factor if you live in a dry climate. You can try keeping the plant in one of the more humid rooms in your house, like the bathroom or the kitchen.

Another popular method of creating humidity for indoor plants is to place your plant on top of a tray filled with pebbles and water. As the water in the tray evaporates, it will moisten the air around the plant.

If you have other plants that enjoy high humidity, you can group them together with your Philodendron and allow them all to create a microclimate around each other.

Finally, if you have the means, you can always use a humidifier. This device will automatically regulate the humidity in the room, so that you do not have to worry.

Fertilizer requirements

In order to have a healthy Philodendron Birkin with large, beautiful leaves, fertilizer is an absolute must. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer that contains calcium and magnesium, once a week, to keep your plant healthy. These are two of the most critical nutrients for Philodendrons’ growth.

During the winter months, you will only need to fertilize the plant once a month, at the most.

Potting requirements

The frequency of repotting your Philodendron Birkin will depend on the rate of the plant’s growth. A foolproof way to gauge whether or not your plant needs repotting is to look at the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. If you can see roots growing out of the holes, that means the plant has outgrown its pot. Some Birkins can live for up to a year in an overgrown pot, while others can even go on as long as two years.

When choosing a new pot, make sure that it is not significantly larger than the previous one. Your plant can become stressed if it is given too much space.

The day before you plan to repot it, water the Philodendron thoroughly. This reduces transplant stress while maintaining the structural integrity of the roots. Additionally, it makes unpotting the plant much simpler.

Prepare the new, slightly larger and well-draining pot ahead of time. Fill it with enough well-draining potting soil to cover the bottom of the pot and a little more to accommodate the root ball.

Take the Philodendron Birkin out of its old pot by turning the pot upside down and, while holding the plant’s base, gently wiggle the plant free from the soil. You can also use a trowel to dislodge it if it does not come out so easily.

After you have unpotted the plant, gently shake off the old soil from the root ball. Inspect the roots and see if there are sections that have turned brown or black. These roots are rotten and will have to be removed using a sterile knife or scissors.

If the root ball has become very tightly tangled, you might have to detangle it or cut away the parts that cannot be separated. This will aid the growth and development of new roots.

Place the plant in its new container and add more potting medium until all of the roots are covered, up to the base of the plant. Do not press down too hard on the soil because this plant prefers loose soil; you can suffocate your Philodendron Birkin by compacting the potting soil. 

Water the plant the following day and check for any signs of transplant shock. Water it again only after the top two inches of soil have dried out.

Conclusion

The Philodendron Birkin is a beautiful and popular houseplant whose dark green leaves have characteristic cream or yellow-colored variegation. While it may seem like a high-maintenance plant because of its appearance, it is actually quite easy to grow and care for.

The plant likes bright, indirect light, whether it is grown outdoors or indoors. It only needs to be watered when the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch, and it is important not to overwater it because this can lead to root rot.

Keep the temperature around your Birkin between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit in the daytime, and between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit at night. Being a tropical plant, it likes humidity, so make sure that you take the necessary measures to maintain sufficient humidity around it in your home.

This plant likes loose, airy soil that is still able to retain some water, and its pot should have drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to escape easily. It does not need to be repotted very often; you usually only need to do this every one or two years.

Image: istockphoto.com / Marina Meshcherskaia

Cacti differ from other plants, in that they do not have the typical leaf structure that one might deem necessary for photosynthesis to take place. With no leaves, you may wonder how cacti carry out photosynthesis, which is a crucial process by which plants produce food for their survival.

As it happens, cacti actually perform a different type of photosynthesis, known as crassulacean acid metabolism, or CAM. In CAM, the cactus’ stems and branches are where the photosynthesis takes place.

At night, the plant absorbs carbon dioxide and releases oxygen, while in the daytime it continues to release oxygen while also turning the carbon dioxide it has absorbed into sugar.

This type of photosynthesis is tailor-made for plants like cacti, because it allows them to do it without drying out under the intense heat of their natural habitat.

In this article we will discuss more about how cacti photosynthesize, and how this process differs from that of regular plants. To learn more about the process, just keep reading.

How do regular plants perform photosynthesis?

Chloroplasts are organelles inside a plant’s cells that store the energy the plant harnesses from the sun. They contain chlorophyll, which is the light-absorbing pigment that gives plants their green color, and this pigment gets energy from the sun’s light waves.

Photosynthesis happens in two stages. The first is the light-dependent stage, during which the chlorophyll absorbs light waves from the sun, and the light energy is converted into chemical energy. This process results in the formation of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate enzyme, or NADPH, and adenosine triphosphate molecules, or ATP.

Oxygen is then released at the end of the light-dependent stage as a by-product of the process.

Due to the production of NADPH and ATP during the light-dependent stage, the second stage of photosynthesis, or the Calvin cycle, can begin. This stage is not dependent on light. The plant absorbs water and carbon dioxide from the atmosphere and from the soil. Once inside the plant’s cells, the water molecules lose their electrons as they are oxidized, while the carbon dioxide molecules gain these electrons as they are reduced. This results in the production of oxygen, which the plant releases, and sugars from the carbon dioxide.

The sugars, specifically glucose, are then used to store energy.

How does crassulacean acid metabolism photosynthesis work?

Knowing how regular photosynthesis works is important in order to properly understand the difference between this and crassulacean acid metabolism photosynthesis, or CAM.

With one significant exception, CAM functions almost identically to regular photosynthesis. During the day, the stomata, or plant pores, remain closed in order to prevent the rapid evaporation of water from the plant. Consequently, carbon dioxide is absorbed and stored during the night, because this is the only time the stomata are open. Photosynthesis occurs during the day, and oxygen is released during the night.

What is the difference between regular photosynthesis and CAM?

Stomata are normally open during the day in order for plants to absorb carbon dioxide and release oxygen while performing photosynthesis, but this is not always the case.

Succulents have stomata as well, but they are found on the stems of the plants rather than on the leaves. They open their stomata at night in order to perform photosynthesis, because they would lose too much water if their stomata were open during the day. The environments in which cacti and other succulents thrive are simply too hot for them to survive if they were to keep their stomata open during the day. Their stored water would simply evaporate and the plant would dry out and die.

Cacti and other succulents had to adapt their basic survival processes to their harsh living conditions, hence they have their own way of photosynthesizing – CAM.

During the course of the night, a cactus opens its stomata and absorbs as much carbon dioxide as it can. Thanks to a complex chemical reaction, this carbon dioxide is stored in the form of malic acid.

During the day, the stomata will close and the cactus will continue to perform regular photosynthesis using the stored carbon dioxide, water, and sunlight. However, because its stomata are still closed, it is unable to release the oxygen that is produced as a byproduct of photosynthesis.

The cactus will therefore store the oxygen during the day and release it at night, once the sun has set and the stomata have reopened.

Why do cacti not have leaves?

It is possible that the absence of leaves from the physiological structure of cacti is due to evolution or adaptation.

Because cacti are native to some of the driest places on earth, with some of the most intense sunlight possible, any kind of regular leaves would end up sun damaged. Even if regular plants could shut their stomata and perform CAM, it still would not help them in the desert, because the hot sun would destroy their leaves in a matter of hours.

This is why the stomata of cacti are located on their thick stems and branches instead; they have evolved to handle the extreme temperatures of the desert while preventing most of the moisture stored in their bodies from evaporating.

The spines present on these plants, even if they do not look like much, also provide shade to the body of the cactus, especially when they are grouped in bundles. They also protect the cactus from animals, such as rodents and birds, that feed on its juicy flesh.

Conclusion

Cacti are succulents that do not have traditional-looking leaves, as one might expect from a plant that is able to perform photosynthesis.

Photosynthesis is the process by which plants turn light energy from the sun into chemical energy that they use for survival.

Plants, including cacti, use sunlight to convert water and carbon dioxide into energy-rich glucose and oxygen. The oxygen is then released into the atmosphere.

Cacti have a different method of photosynthesis, called crassulacean acid metabolism. This type of photosynthesis shares many similarities with regular photosynthesis, but the stomata, present on the stems and branches of the cactus, remain closed during the daytime so that the water stored in the plant does not evaporate under the intense heat and light of the desert.

The stomata open at night instead, so this is when cacti absorb carbon dioxide. They store it during the night and, when daylight comes, use it for photosynthesis. The oxygen produced during this photosynthesis will then be released at night, when the stomata open again.

Image: istockphoto.com / Techa Tungateja

The Philodendron Birkin is a very popular houseplant in the United States because of its beautiful foliage. It was once difficult to get hold of and thus quite expensive, but now that it is not quite as rare as it used to be, it has become more affordable.

The plant’s leaves are dark green in color, but what really sets it apart from other houseplants is its cream or yellow variegation that looks as if it was painted delicately onto the leaves with a paintbrush.

The Birkin is actually a mutation of the Philodendron Rojo Congo variety. But, even if the plant is not native to any part of the world, it still has the same preferences as other philodendrons when it comes to its living conditions.

The main reason this plant has become more widespread among avid collectors is that people have simply propagated the plant. Propagation is a way of multiplying the plant by using portions from a parent plant to grow new plants.

In this article, we will discuss more about Philodendron Birkin propagation, why propagation is important, and how to do this properly. So, if you are curious about how this process is performed and you want to learn more, just keep on reading.

Why should I propagate my Philodendron Birkin?

The main reason why you might want to propagate your philodendron is to have more of the same plant without having to pay for another one. You are basically getting more plants at no expense and you can even give the new plants away as gifts to friends and family.

If your Philodendron Birkin is getting too big and you are planning to prune it, do not waste the prunings – rather use them to grow new plants.

Pruning the plant actually helps to encourage thicker growth. During the winter, your Philodendron Birkin can sometimes grow stems that are leggy or scraggly because of the lack of natural light during that season. These longer stems do not hurt the plant, but they can make it look asymmetrical or lopsided, so you might want to remove them. If so, you can use these prunings to propagate your plant.

What do I need to prepare before I start the propagation process?

Before you start propagating your philodendron, you should prepare the following:

• Philodendron parent plant
• Pots
• Pruning shears or scissors, sterilized with rubbing alcohol
• Water
• Fresh, well-draining potting medium
• Plastic wrap

Philodendron Birkin propagation methods

Propagation using stem cuttings

Propagation using the plant’s stem cuttings is the easiest and most commonly used method for philodendrons.

Take the parent plant and choose a stem that looks healthy. This is important because you want to have the highest chance of successful propagation, and using an unhealthy stem is not a great start to the process.

Make sure that the stem you choose has at least one node on it, and make sure to cut the stem below the node so that it is included in the section you are removing. The node is the joint of the stem, which is where the roots of the cutting will grow from.

If your plant has grown so much that the stems also have air roots growing from them, this is even better. The cutting will be more mature and will grow much more easily because it literally already has roots present.

Using your sterile scissors or shears, cut the stem below the node, at a diagonal angle. It is important that your tools are sterile because you do not want any pathogens to make their way onto the open wound on the stem.

Before placing the cutting in water, remove the leaves from the lower half of it. There should be no leaves submerged in the water or even touching the water. If any leaves touch the water they will rot, which can impair the development of the cutting.

Fill a glass container with lukewarm water and place the cutting in the water. It is best to use filtered water or rainwater for this, as these water sources have little to no fluoride and chlorine content, which can harm the cutting. If you do not have access to rainwater or filtered water, you can leave tap water out on a counter for a day so that the minerals can dissipate.

The nodes on the cutting should be submerged in the water because this is where the roots are going to sprout from.

Place the glass container in a spot where the cutting can get lots of bright, indirect light. The light should not be direct because such intensity can cause the cutting to dry out and burn.

If natural light is scarce, you can use a grow light on the cuttings to encourage growth.

Make sure that you change the water in the container every couple of days, or as soon as it starts to get murky or smelly. The murkiness and the smell are an indication that there may be bacterial growth in the water, so you should change it as soon as possible to keep the cutting healthy.

Keep up this routine for several weeks as you let the roots sprout from the cutting. After several weeks, the roots should be a few inches long and you can then plant it in a regular pot.

Fill a pot with a well-draining potting medium and carefully place the cutting in the soil. Make sure that the new roots do not break or get damaged as you are planting it.

Going forward, you can care for your new Philodendron Birkin as you would a regular mature philodendron.

Propagation by division

Another method you can use to propagate your Philodendron Birkin is by division. This can be done if you see offsets, or pups, already growing from the sides of the parent plant.

This method is preferable if there are multiple offsets on the parent plant. If there are only one or two offsets, it might be better just to use stem cuttings while you wait for more offsets to grow.

Before starting the process, locate and identify the offsets on the parent plant. If you are sure that there are multiple offshoots, you need to remove the entire parent plant from its pot so that you can safely separate the offshoots and their roots from the main plant.

Be careful when removing it, and then gently remove as much soil from the roots as you can.

You can use your fingers to comb gently through the roots to dislodge any soil from the root ball. If there are root sections that are too tangled, you might need to cut them off rather than trying to separate them. Just make sure that, even if you remove the tangled roots, the different sections of the plant will still have their own roots once they have been divided.

Once you have established how you are going to section the plant, use shears to separate the sections. Do not just pull them apart, because you might end up causing more damage this way. Be patient and mindful of the plant as you carefully separate it into sections.

After you have separated the offshoots from the parent plant, you can replant the parent plant in its original pot.

If the offshoots that you have separated are a bit small, you might have to place them in a container of water first, as you would with stem cuttings. This way, the offshoots will have time to strengthen their roots before you plant them in the soil.

If the offshoots are big enough, you can plant them directly into a pot with fresh potting soil.

Once potted, you can continue caring for them as you would a mature plant.

Philodendron Birkin care

Light requirements

Philodendron Birkin thrives in bright, indirect light. Place your plant near a window to ensure it receives enough light to grow, but keep it out of direct sunlight to avoid scorched leaves.

The amount of variegation on the leaves of a Philodendron Birkin varies considerably, and those with more white leaves will require more light to thrive than those with predominantly green leaves.

Bear in mind that the light in your home changes throughout the year, and you may need to adjust the position of your plant to keep it out of direct sunlight in the summer and closer to a window in the winter.

Watering requirements

Philodendron Birkin prefers a somewhat moist soil that dries out slightly between waterings. It can usually tolerate drought better than overwatering, so check to see if your plant is truly thirsty before reaching for the watering can.

Allow the top two inches of soil to dry out completely before watering your Philodendron Birkin. Poke your finger into the soil to determine its dryness, and you can also lift the pot to get an idea of how wet the soil is based on the weight of the container.

When it is time to water your plant, thoroughly soak the soil to ensure that the entire root ball receives adequate water. Sometimes dry soil will repel water at first, so take your time and gradually add water until the soil is saturated.

Bottom watering is also an effective way to ensure that the soil is evenly watered, but it takes a little longer than top watering.

After watering, allow all excess water to drain through the drainage holes. I usually allow my plants to drain by the sink before relocating them to their normal location. Alternatively, remember to empty the drip tray or outer pot after a few minutes to prevent the roots from remaining submerged in water.

Soil requirements

The Birkin thrives in a well-draining, airy potting mix that retains sufficient moisture while allowing the majority of water to drain out of the bottom of the pot to avoid overwatering.

The potting mix should also be airy enough to prevent the soil from becoming compacted.

Humidity requirements

Because its leaves are waxy and thick, Philodendron Birkin is less fussy about humidity than other houseplants. However, if your home is particularly dry, you may notice brown tips and edges on the leaves.

Humidity levels above 40 percent are fine for your Philodendron Birkin, but 50 to 70 percent will make it more comfortable and may help it thrive.

Try one of these methods to keep your Philodendron’s humidity levels high:

• Group your plants together to increase transpiration and evaporation.
• Use a humidifier tray around your plants.
• Move your plant to a bathroom where the bath, shower, and taps will increase humidity.
• Use a humidifier to easily increase humidity.

Temperature requirements

As long as temperatures remain between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, your Philodendron Birkin will thrive. It typically ceases to grow at temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit and is susceptible to cold damage at temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

The primary source of temperature problems indoors is drafts. Drafts, both hot and cold, can be problematic. Browning of the leaves, particularly at the edges and tips, can be caused by hot drafts from radiators, heating vents, or fires. 

Cold, drafty windows or cooling vents can result in significant cold stress, causing a plant to wither or die.

Conclusion

Philodendron Birkin is a beautiful houseplant with dark green leaves and cream or yellow-colored variegation.

This plant is a mutation of the Philodendron Rojo Congo, which means that the Birkin cannot be found in the wild. Despite this, it shares most of the same preferences as other philodendrons when it comes to its growing conditions.

This plant used to be quite rare and expensive to procure, but over the years it has been propagated frequently enough that it has become fairly easy to get hold of one now.

If you want to propagate your own Philodendron Birkin so that you can give away the new plants to friends and family, or even sell them to other people, the good news is that it is not that complicated to do.

There are two ways you can propagate a Philodendron Birkin: by stem cutting or by division.

When using a stem cutting, choose a healthy stem that has at least one node or even some air roots, and be sure you are using sterile tools when taking the cutting. You will have to let the cuttings root in a glass of water for a few weeks before you can finally plant it in the soil.

As for the division method, this is only applicable when the parent plant has grown offshoots that have their own roots that you can easily separate from the parent plant.

You can plant the offshoots directly in a new pot with fresh soil and care for them as you would a mature plant.

Image: istockphoto.com / Jobrestful

Cacti are some of the most resilient and hardy plants on earth, known for their ability to survive extreme climates. But, while cacti may be able to tolerate a wide range of living conditions, that does not mean they will grow happily in just any conditions.

Like any other plant, the cactus has its own set of ideal cultural care requirements which, when followed, will result in the growth of a thriving and healthy cactus. Factors that need to be considered when growing a cactus include light, water, temperature and humidity.

Another factor to take into account is the pH level of the soil you choose for your cactus. The ideal pH range for this plant is between 5.0 and 7.0.

It may seem like a daunting task to monitor the soil pH of all your cacti, but there are actually easy ways to do this.

In this article, we will discuss the importance of monitoring and maintaining the ideal soil and water pH for the growth of a cactus.

Why is it important to monitor the pH level of my cactus’ soil?

The ideal pH range for your cactus is between 5.0 and 7.0.

Different species of cactus have different preferences when it comes to this, but they will all likely be within that range. You should read about your specific cactus species in order to correctly determine the pH it prefers.

Also keep in mind that the soil’s pH can be affected by the pH of the water you are using for the plant. Cacti like soil that is more on the acidic side, while most tap water is usually more alkaline. So, if you use only tap water on your cactus, it should come as no surprise that the acidic pH of your soil will start to become more alkaline over time.

You need to be careful if the pH of the soil around your cactus reaches 8.0 or higher, because this can affect the plant’s ability to absorb its required nutrients from the soil.

How can I tell if there is a pH imbalance in my cactus’ soil?

When a cactus has a pH imbalance, it may exhibit symptoms similar to those of other problems, such as sunburn or a mite infestation. You may observe yellowing on new growth, brown spots on the plant’s skin that look like sun damage, or the plant itself may begin to shrivel and wither.

These signs appear because certain elements in the soil become more or less available depending on the soil’s pH level. As a result, the cactus may not receive the proper amounts of the elements it requires, hence the noticeable changes in the appearance of the cactus.

If possible, using rainwater on your plants is the best option. Rainwater is naturally acidic, and it will help keep the pH of the soil at its optimal level and decrease the chances of a pH imbalance.

You can also use a pH meter to monitor the soil or the water. Knowing the pH of your water allows you to make any necessary adjustments before giving it to your cacti.

How to monitor the pH level of the soil

The pH levels of soil indicate how acidic or alkaline your soil is. A pH of 7.0 is neutral, acidic soil has a pH value less than 7.0, while a pH value greater than 7.0 means that the soil is alkaline.

pH soil test kits can tell you the pH levels of your soil almost immediately. Testing is done by mixing small samples of soil with a chemical to see how the indicator dye changes color according to the acidity level.

Acidic soil causes the testing solution to turn orange-yellow, neutral soil causes it to turn green, and alkaline soil causes it to turn dark green. To determine the acidity level, you compare the resulting color with the chart that comes with the test kit, which looks a little like a paint swatch card. This is all of the information you require to determine whether or not you need to adjust the soil conditions.

You can also use a pH meter. Simply insert the metallic probe into the soil and read the pH directly from the digital display on the machine.

Although pH soil testing can be done at any time of year, it is best to do so within three months after application of lime, fertilizer or organic matter to the soil, so that enough time has passed and the machine can produce accurate results.

What do pH soil test results mean?

A pH reading between 3.0 and 5.0 indicates that the soil is extremely acidic. It is easy for plant nutrients to be washed away, leaving the soil deficient in trace elements. Lime should be added to raise the pH above 5.0.

A pH reading between 5.1 and 6.0 indicates that you have acidic soil. You can grow your cactus at this level, but if you are unsure, you can add more lime.

A pH reading between 6.1 and 7.0 indicates that your soil is ideal for growing a wide variety of plants, including cacti, because it is moderately acidic and densely packed with nutrients. 

A pH reading between 7.1 and 8.0 indicates that your soil is alkaline, likely deficient in certain minerals such as phosphorus, iron, and manganese, and will require the addition of acidifying agents to correct its pH.

How to correct the soil pH level to suit your cactus’ requirements

Plants are unable to obtain their required nutrients from soil that is too acidic, but it is easy to alter the soil’s pH if you use the right combination of ingredients.

Lime can help to reduce acidity in the soil. Ground limestone is easy to spread, widely available at garden centers, and is the preferred method of repairing soil that has become too acidic over time.

If the soil is acidic, spread lime over the surface and work it into the soil to raise the pH and make it more alkaline. You will need to know your soil type in order to calculate how much lime to spread per square foot in order to bring the pH level down to the ideal figure of 6.5. As you add lime, continue monitoring the soil pH so you do not end up adding too much.

If the soil is alkaline, acidifying materials such as pine bark, compost, or sulphur can be added to lower the alkalinity of the soil while also improving its texture.

Conclusion

Cacti are some of the most resilient and hardy plants on earth, and have evolved to survive some of the most extreme living conditions.

Still, there are several factors you need to consider if you want your cactus to thrive. One of these factors is the pH of the soil you use for your plant. If the pH level of the soil is too high for it, this can leave it unable to absorb the nutrients that it needs from the soil.

The ideal pH level for a cactus is between 5.0 and 7.0, and you can measure and monitor this by using pH soil test kits or a pH soil tester.

Once you have determined the pH of the soil, and depending on whether it is too acidic or too alkaline, you can add the necessary substances to adjust it to the optimal pH of 6.5.

Image: istockphoto.com / Oat_Phawat