Audrey Woods

The desert is an inhospitable habitat for most plants – but not for cacti. With its elevated temperatures and prolonged drought season, you may wonder how cacti can survive such harsh environments. And, since the desert is dry almost all of the time, you might also start to question whether these succulents even have roots.

Cacti are drought-resilient, which means they can survive without water for months on end. That does not mean, however, that they do not have roots. Like any other plants, they rely heavily on their roots for survival.

The only difference between cacti and most normal plants is the nature of their root system. Cactus roots have their own unique capabilities that allow them to thrive even during prolonged dry spells. These roots are known for their impressive adaptations that aid the plant’s survival in extremely dry areas, as they have evolved to efficiently collect as much moisture as possible from the soil and the surrounding air. 

There are various types and shapes of cactus roots; if you are curious about what they look like underneath the soil, read on to learn more! 

What do cactus roots look like?

Different species of cacti can have different types of roots. Some have long, thin, hair-like roots that grow closer to the soil’s surface, while others have thick, long roots that grow further into the ground.

The thin root strands are more common during the rainy seasons, because these fibrous roots can easily collect rain water from the surface of the soil. However, these roots are short-lived and wither during the dry season.

On the other hand, thicker and longer roots can penetrate deep into the soil’s sublayers to collect as much moisture as possible. Most cacti have these roots as the primary backbone of their root system, but there are some that rely solely on their fibrous roots to survive.

Cactus roots fall into four different types – aerial roots, tap roots, lateral roots, and tuberous roots. Each type has its own unique features and purpose, described in more detail below. 

Types of cactus roots

Cacti can have one or a combination of several types of roots, each having their own purpose to aid survival in areas with limited water supply. These roots are:

1. Aerial roots

Aerial roots, or air roots, are the ones that grow along the plant’s stem. Not all succulents will have aerial roots; it is more common among species with stems, such as Sedums, Echeverias, and Christmas cacti. Moreover, these pink or white strands only grow when the succulent needs your attention.

First, your cactus may not be getting enough water from the soil, and if it is kept in a humid environment, it will start to collect water from the surrounding air instead. And, since succulents can only absorb water through roots, it will start growing these air roots in an effort to capture moisture and hydrate itself.

Second, succulents may send off aerial roots if they are stretching out to get enough sunlight. These desert plants thrive in areas with a lot of light, so if you keep your plant in low-light conditions, it will actively grow in search of a better light source. Having said that, it is also not advisable to place the plant under direct sunlight all day, as this might cause sun damage to the foliage.  

Although air roots can be unsightly, they usually are not a cause for serious concern. You may trim them off for aesthetic purposes, but you should consider this growth as a warning sign that your succulent is not getting the right amount of water or sunlight.

2. Tap roots

Tap roots are the plant’s primary and largest roots, formed for efficient water absorption. These long, thick roots are the first type of root that the plant develops right after germination. 

Tap roots grow downwards to reach the nutrients and moisture deep in the soil’s subsurface layers. Since the roots extend far into the soil, the cactus can easily access and store enough water to survive the extreme desert heat above-ground.

Aside from absorbing water and nutrients, tap roots are also used to support the cactus in the ground. Since the roots are so thick and deeply lodged in the soil, they become the succulent’s anchor and help keep it upright in the strong desert winds.

Over time, the tap roots will start to sprout lateral roots as it continues to grow longer and thicker. These roots serve as the succulent’s backbone and lasts throughout its life.

3. Lateral roots

The lateral roots are those that branch off from the tap roots, growing outward in all directions to capture more water quickly and efficiently. In fact, the majority of the cactus’ roots are lateral roots.

Lateral roots, also known as adventitious roots, play an important role in the succulent’s survival in the hot desert. Unlike the primary root, these widespread, thin, hair-like roots do not grow deep into the soil; they grow close to the surface to harvest rainwater and nutrients. 

When a rain shower occurs, the lateral roots can quickly absorb the rainwater from the soil’s surface. At this time, new lateral roots will develop to help the plant collect every last drop of water to be stored and keep the plant hydrated. Hence, lateral roots do not need to be thick and long to penetrate deep down into the soil. The more area they can cover, the more water they can collect. 

During the hot season, some of these lateral roots will wither away. Although they are short-lived, they can quickly branch out anew when the rainy season starts again. Some cactus species that have spreading lateral roots include the Melocactus, Gymnocalycium, and the golden barrel cactus.

4. Tuberous roots

Tuberous roots are common in succulents that grow in areas with rare precipitation. These thick, absorbent roots collect and store all the nutrients and moisture they can find in preparation for the drought season. Cacti with tuberous roots are extremely resilient desert plants, and can survive even months without any rainfall.

Some common cacti with tuberous roots are the Pediocactus and Lophophora.

Cactus root hairs

Cactus roots are highly adaptable to their environment and the available water sources.

When the soil starts to become wet with rain water, their existing roots start to rehydrate and form new, hair-like roots. These new roots spread widely to cover a greater surface area and ensure an adequate amount of water is collected. 

Since these cactus root hairs are very thin, they can easily dehydrate and wither, so when the dry season returns, they simply fall off. Surprisingly, this is not a loss for the plant; on the contrary, the death of its thin roots serves another important purpose for its survival. The withering of the roots prevents any moisture from being absorbed back into the soil, allowing the cactus to preserve more water during extreme drought.

Most of the cactus root hairs will only grow back once the rainy season starts again.

How deep can cactus roots grow?

The cactus’ root system is uniquely adapted to harness valuable water and survive the harsh climatic conditions of the desert. Depending on their type and purpose, cactus roots can be very thick and long to absorb moisture from deep within the soil, or they can be very thin and hair-like, allowing for quick collection of water during a rain shower.

Cactus roots can extend up to three or four feet into the ground, while growing up to three feet horizontally. This is the plant’s technique – to disperse its roots as deep and as wide as it can to collect an adequate amount of water and survive the prolonged drought season.

Can a cactus survive without roots?

Just like any other plant, cacti cannot live without their roots. These are a plant’s lifeline: through its roots, the cactus absorbs the nutrients and water that it needs to live. Without its roots, it will start to wither and die.

Since cacti are highly drought-resilient plants, they can survive temporarily – for a couple of weeks or months – without roots. With the exception of the moon cactus, most cacti without roots will eventually start growing new roots. High humidity and a sufficient water supply can help speed up the growth of these new roots.

The bottom line

Cacti do indeed have roots: they are the plants’ lifeline for survival in harsh environments like the desert. These plants’ powerful root systems are uniquely adapted to live in areas with limited water resources. Some cactus roots grow deep into the ground, while others grow shallow and laterally near the surface. 

Although cactus roots come in various shapes, thicknesses, and lengths, they all share the same purpose: to harvest enough nutrients and moisture from their environment to keep the plant alive in the harsh desert.

Image: istockphoto.com / maaram

Air roots, also known as aerial roots, are commonly found in orchid species that are epiphytic, meaning that they grow above the ground, such as on trunks of trees. These species of orchids, which grow in the rainforests in the tropics, do not root in the earth like terrestrial orchids.

Orchids that have air roots use their normal roots to attach themselves onto the side of a tree. They grow this way because they are trying to reach more light, since in the rainforests there is only stippled sunlight filtering through the tree canopy.

Air roots work by actively absorbing moisture and nutrients straight from the air around them. This is how the orchid can survive even without the traditional potting medium that most plants need for their resources.

One of the most common problems orchid owners encounter is when the air roots on their plants begin to shrivel.

Shriveled orchid air roots are a sign that an environmental factor is causing the plant stress, and you will have to figure out the cause of the problem before you can properly resolve it and save the plant.

The most common causes of shriveling orchid air roots are low humidity, not enough water, and too much water.

In this article, we will discuss each of these problems and how to fix them. So, if you are currently experiencing this problem and want to learn more, just keep reading.

Why are the air roots on my orchid shriveling?

Low humidity

The most likely reason your orchid’s air roots are shriveled is because you are keeping it in a room with very low humidity.

As we mentioned above, these orchids are native to tropical rainforests where the humidity is higher than other topographical regions on earth. They have evolved to use this high humidity to their advantage by developing the ability to absorb moisture from the air.

Orchids prefer humidity within a range of 40 to 70 percent in order to function properly. Anything lower than that for long periods of time will cause the air roots to dry out and shrivel.

If you suspect that your orchid’s air roots are shriveling due to low humidity, you will need to take some measures to raise the humidity around the plant.

If it appears to be dried out, try giving it a water bath for 20 minutes, using rain water or filtered water. Just make sure that the potting medium is able to drain well afterwards.

Once the air roots have turned a healthier green again after the quick bath, you will need to start some practices to aid with your plant’s humidity needs going forward, so that the air roots do not shrivel again.

You can keep a spray bottle of water at the ready to mist the roots once in a while, which will temporarily raise the humidity around the plant.

You could also use a pebble tray filled with water. Place the plant’s pot on top of the pebble tray and, as the water from the tray evaporates, it will add moisture to the air around the roots.

You can also choose to keep your orchid in one of the more humid rooms of your house, such as the bathroom or the kitchen. This is one of the simplest ways to keep an orchid happy without much effort.

Or, if you have other plants that also enjoy higher humidity, group the orchid together with them so that they can all create a microclimate around one another.

If you have the means, you can also buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

If you live in a place where the air can be quite dry, a hygrometer will help to monitor your home’s humidity. This way, you can always be aware of when you need to take measures to increase it.

Not enough water

When you grow orchids in your home, they are usually grown in containers where the regular roots are covered with orchid potting medium and the air roots are left to grow out to the sides. The plant is usually watered whenever the potting medium feels dry to the touch. If you neglect to water it for too long after the potting medium has dried out, this can lead to symptoms of underwatering, such as shriveled air roots.

The air roots of an underwatered orchid will also turn gray in color, which is a stark difference from the healthy green color of well-watered orchid roots.

Another sign of an underwatered orchid, aside from shriveled air roots, is when the leaves look pleated, curled, or, in extreme cases, dry and crispy.

If you think that your orchid’s shriveled air roots are due to underwatering, you need to water the plant immediately. You do not have to use any drastic methods; just water it the same way you normally would. Restarting your regular watering schedule should be enough to save the shriveled air roots.

In order to prevent underwatering your orchid again, you need to develop good watering habits. Typically, an orchid likes to be watered once a week, but there are plenty of factors that you need to consider when it comes to watering frequency, such as the weather, season and climate where you live, as well as the species of orchid and the potting medium it is in.

The best way to know whether your orchid needs to be watered is by feeling the potting medium with your fingers and looking at the plant’s roots.

If the roots look white or gray, that means your plant is dehydrated and you need to water it. Likewise, if the potting medium is dry to the touch, water the orchid, but if the potting medium is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Too much water

Another reason your orchid’s air roots may be shriveled is that the plant has been overwatered to the point that its roots have become compromised, or may even be dead.

Overwatering can come about from giving the plant too much water everytime you water it, watering it more often than you need to, using a potting medium that is too dense and compact for orchids, or not adjusting your watering habits according to changes in the weather, season or climate.

If you continue to overwater your orchid for a long time, it can lead to root rot. This is a condition caused by prolonged exposure of the plant’s roots to waterlogged potting medium, so that they are unable to dry out between waterings and cannot absorb oxygen.

Because the roots are always wet, this will encourage fungal growth, and will also attract other opportunistic pathogens such as bacteria.

The fungi and bacteria will cause the roots to rot and die, and over time they will become unable to function properly. The plant will thus be unable to absorb nutrients and water in order to provide for itself. This will affect the entire plant, including the air roots.

If the orchid is presenting signs that make you think that it is underwatered, yet after watering it the roots still remain gray or white, this is a sign that the problem could be root rot rather than underwatering.

If you think your orchid is overwatered, stop watering it immediately ang move it to a spot where it can get good air circulation. Do not water it again until you are sure that the potting medium has dried out.

If you suspect root rot to be the cause of the shriveling air roots, you will have to remove the plant from its pot  and inspect all of the roots. Rotten roots will be brown or black, and need to be cut off with a sterile knife or pruning shears. Rotten roots may also feel soft and mushy to the touch.

Remove all the affected roots as well as any air roots that have shriveled or dried out, until only the healthy roots remain. Do not worry about the roots that you removed; the plant will be more than capable of growing new air roots once it has recovered fully.

Place the orchid on a dry surface for the roots to air-dry for a few hours. While you wait, prepare a new container with fresh orchid potting medium. Place the orchid in the center of the container and cover the roots with more potting medium.

Place the pot in a spot where the plant can get bright, indirect light for most of the day, and where it is out of reach of warm or cold drafts.

Going forward, only water the plant when the potting medium is dry to the touch. The only way to prevent its roots from shriveling due to root rot is to avoid overwatering.

Orchid care

Light requirements

These plants do well in bright light, but they do not like direct late-afternoon sunlight. If you are keeping the orchid indoors, it is best to keep it next to a north or east-facing window because these are the windows that let in less intense light.

If the only windows available in your home are letting in harsh light, you can still place the plant near them, but hang a sheer curtain over the window first. The curtain will diffuse the intensity of the light so that the plant does not get burned.

If you live in a place where natural sunlight can be scarce for a few months of the year, you can use a grow light to help your plant get the light it needs. Natural light is, of course, the best choice, but artificial light is a good alternative if natural sunlight is unavailable.

Soil requirements

Ordinary potting soil or potting mix will not support the growth of orchids. As an alternative, you can purchase or make your own orchid medium, which may include a variety of unusual items such as moss or bark, cork, or even chunks of brick, all of which will allow the roots to breathe more easily. Your orchid will thrive in a slightly acidic environment created by the combination of the growing medium, water, and fertilizer.

The pot that you use for your orchid should also have drainage holes at the bottom to allow any excess water to simply flow out. This helps prevent overwatering and root rot by not allowing the water to be retained in the potting medium, which would leave the roots waterlogged.

Water requirements

Orchids require only a small amount of water. Their roots are highly specialized organs designed to absorb water very quickly; they require regular periods of drying in order to breathe, followed by periods of heavy watering.

During the summer months, give your orchid a thorough weekly watering. Allow the water to drench the roots and fill the pebble tray to the brim. I find it does not hurt to put the plant in the kitchen sink every once in a while and really soak it well. It will not die if you allow it to dry out afterward, so do not be concerned about that. It is possible for root rot to occur in orchids with overly wet roots, so this drying out period is necessary.

Conserve warmth for your plant in the winter and reduce your watering to once or twice a month, at the most. Mist it once or twice a week to keep it hydrated.

Temperature and humidity requirements

Tropical orchids like to have high humidity and good air circulation around their roots. Temperatures above 50 degrees but below 85 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for orchid growth.

If you can provide a mild, warm, and slightly humid environment for your orchids, their blooms will last longer. Do not place your orchid in an area where it will be exposed to cold drafts or direct sunlight, such as near heating vents or air conditioning. These delicate flowers are harmed by dry air, direct heat, and cold temperatures.

Fertilizer requirements

During the growing season, give your plant a weak solution of a powdered or liquid fertilizer once a week. During the winter, do not fertilize it.

Conclusion

Orchids have air roots that are distinctly different from the roots that grow down into the potting medium. These air roots are able to absorb water and nutrients directly from the air around them in order to feed the plant.

Air roots are present in epiphytic orchids that are native to tropical rainforests. These orchids grow on the trunks of trees so that they can get higher off the ground and reach the light that filters through the canopy of treetops in the rainforest.

One of the most common problems orchid growers observe in their plants is shriveled air roots.This is a sign that there is an environmental factor causing the plant stress, which will need to be resolved as soon as possible in order to save the plant.

The most common causes of shriveled orchid air roots are low humidity, not enough water, or too much water.

The sooner you are able to determine the cause of the problem, the sooner you will be able to take the necessary measures to save your plant.

Image: istockphoto.com / Gheorhge

Cacti have become some of the most popular houseplants over the years because of how low maintenance and resilient they are.

They also come in many different shapes and sizes that allow plant enthusiasts to choose which varieties suit them.

Cacti do not encounter as many problems as other houseplants, but that does not mean that they do not have their fair share of issues.

One of the most common symptoms observed on cacti is when they turn black. The most common reasons why your cactus is turning black are not enough water, too much water, disease and temperature changes.

In this article, we will discuss the different causes of a cactus turning black and what you can do to save it. So if you are having this problem and wish to learn more, just keep on reading.

Why is my cactus turning black?

Not enough water

A common misconception about cacti is that they do not need to be watered. This is certainly not true because it is a plant that needs a certain moisture level inside it to remain healthy.

Yes, cacti need watering much less than regular houseplants, but that does not mean that you can just neglect watering it all the time.

Cacti use water in the soil as a sort of vessel to absorb the nutrients and minerals from it. If there is no water in the soil around the roots, the cactus will not be able to get the substances that it needs to survive.

If you leave the plant underwatered for long enough, the plant will dry up and turn brown or black and then die completely.

You will know that your cactus is not getting enough water when the soil around the plant looks and feels bone-dry and if the plant itself looks limp and dried out.

If you think that your cactus is underwatered, water it immediately. Make sure that you soak all of the soil in the pot so that all of the roots of the cactus get their share of moisture.

In order to avoid underwatering again, you should know when to water the plant. You will know if the cactus needs to be watered if the top inch of soil in its pot is dry to the touch.

Too much water

Cacti are desert plants that have evolved over the years to develop characteristics that allow them to survive in these extreme conditions. One of these is the ability to absorb and store plenty of water in their stems. This water is what gets the plant through long dry spells in the desert.

Rainfall is scarce in the desert and the plant knows to capitalize on this to ensure its survival.

Because the plant can store a lot of water and use it effectively over a long period of time, it does not need to be watered as often as the regular houseplant.

In fact, overwatering is one of the most common mistakes cactus owners commit. This can be due to you giving the plant too much water every time you water it, giving the plant water more often than you need to, using a poorly-draining potting mix and pot or if you do not adjust your watering habits to changes in weather, season and climate.

An overwatered cactus will turn yellow and become mushy because it has been absorbing water from the soil continuously and the plant cannot use up the water fast enough.

Overwatering that is not corrected immediately can lead to a more serious condition called root rot.

Root rot happens when an overwatered cactus is left to sit in the waterlogged soil for long periods of time and the plant’s roots will drown and die. The dead roots will become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens and these pathogens are going to make the rot more aggressive until it spreads to the entire plant.

When the rot has consumed the entire cactus, it will turn black and cannot be saved.

If you think that your cactus is overwatered, stop watering it immediately and place it in a sunnier spot to allow the soil to dry out quicker.

If you suspect root rot, you will need to remove the plant from the pot. Once the plant has been removed, wash off as much of the old soil from the roots as you can. Do this gently because the roots are quite fragile at this point.

Inspect all of the roots and search for sections that have turned brown or black. These roots are rotten and will have to be removed. Use a sterile pair of scissors to remove the dead roots until only the white, healthy roots remain.

Place the plant on a dry surface to allow the roots to air dry for a few hours.

Prepare a new pot by filling it with fresh cactus potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more soil if you need to. Make sure that the pot has drainage holes at the bottom.

Place the plant in a sunny spot with good air circulation. Wait at least seven days before watering the cactus. Water the plant only when the soil in the pot is dry to the touch. If the soil is still a bit damp when you touch it, wait one or two days before checking the soil again.

Diseases

Crown rot

Crown rot is a fungus that lives in the soil and thrives in wet, heavy soil. It affects trees and shrubs. Cactuses, on the other hand, thrive in light, airy soil that dries quickly. However, this does not mean that your plant is immune to this fungal disease. When it comes to gardening, knowing the basics of crown rot is essential if you want to grow a healthy garden. Crown rot can affect almost any plant, shrub, tree, or vegetable patch, so knowing the basics of this disease is essential.

Initially, the soil will display symptoms that are similar to those of dry rot, which indicates that the cactus is suffering from crown rot. There may be other signs that go unnoticed until the affected areas become dark, tan, or brown in color. By this point, it is almost always too late to save your houseplant from certain death. This is why crown rot is so lethal because you may not even be aware that your plant has been infected with it until it is too late.

Once the fungus has established itself in the soil, it is virtually impossible to eradicate.

Once crown rot has progressed to the point where your cactus has become blackened, it is extremely difficult to reverse the situation. In conjunction with proper watering, fungicides can aid in the prevention of diseases; however, once a disease has taken hold, it is difficult to eradicate it permanently from the plant. As previously stated, crown rot begins in the soil, so you should consider repotting a cactus and replenishing the soil around it as a precaution.

Phyllosticta pad spotting

Infection with Phyllosticta pad spotting, also known as prickly pear leaf spot, is a fungal disease that affects the prickly pear cactus as well as other members of the Opuntia family. Cactus pads become infected with phyllosticta fungus after tiny spores from the fungus colonize them and cause lesions.

If your cactus plant has phyllosticta pad spotting, you should remove it from any other plants you own as soon as possible because the infection can spread very quickly between plants. In addition, you should carefully remove the infected pads from your prickly pear cactus in order to prevent the disease from spreading further.

Fortunately, the damage caused by this fungal disease is primarily cosmetic in nature and will not result in the death of your cactus plant. Prickly pears are most commonly affected by phyllosticta concava, which is also known as dry rot and is the most common cause of the disease.

When you have phyllosticta pad spotting, you will notice black circular lesions on your cactus’ skin that are 1 to 2 inches in diameter. This is one of the first symptoms you will notice. The dark colors are produced by reproductive structures known as pycnidia, which will release spores when the conditions change. When the conditions change, the spots will fall out of the cactus and leave a scar.

Bacterial necrosis

Bacterial necrosis is a type of fungal disease that affects the saguaro cactus plant. It is a fairly simple infection that rots the tissue of the plant and can be both smelly and life-threatening to the saguaro cactus if left untreated. If left untreated, the infection can spread throughout the plant and kill it.

It is possible to smell and feel the softness of the blackened spot on a Saguaro cactus when it is affected by bacterial necrosis in the first stage of this disease in the plant. It will eventually progress to the formation of dark lesions that exude an odorous fluid and the formation of necrotic pockets that will spread throughout the body. Necrotic pockets are pockets of dead plant tissue that, if left untreated, will kill your cactus plant if it is not removed. If you catch a saguaro cactus disease early enough, it will have an 80 percent chance of surviving.

You will also notice that the necrosis of the saguaro cactus develops a corky patch on the cactus. This is the plant’s attempt to heal itself, but any breach of the corked area will allow the bacteria to escape and infect your plant even more severely. The patch will be blackened to give it a more edgy appearance.

The only way to treat bacterial necrosis is to manually remove the infected area with a clean, sharp, sterilized knife, which is the only treatment available. However, because the bacteria can survive in the soil or ground, your cactus plant may not be completely saved.

Temperature changes

Cacti are desert plants, which mean that they do not do particularly well in cold weather. This is also why it is no surprise to experienced cactus growers to see problems pop up when winter rolls around.

The very biology of cactus plants will not survive, let alone flourish, in winter conditions. The tissues in the surface of the cactus will react negatively to the sudden drop in temperatures such as black spots on the skin and can even result in the death of the plant.

If you are growing your plant outdoors, make sure that you take it inside your house before the frost comes and do not allow it to spend long periods of time out in the cold. Try to keep the cactus in an environment with a temperature between 75 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

After keeping the plant indoors for a week, note the changes in the black spots on the plants and see if they have lessened in number or size.

If the spots do not go away or there are no changes, the spots may be because of a completely different cause.

Conclusion

Cacti are a diverse group of plants that come in all shapes and sizes. They have become some of the most popular houseplants because of the ease at which they are grown and cared for.

One of the most common problems encountered by cactus growers is when the plant suddenly turns black. No matter the variety of cactus, if any of them turn black, that means that there is something wrong with it that you need to resolve.

The most common causes of a cactus turning black are not enough water, too much water, disease and temperature changes.

The most important step in fixing this problem for your cactus is to correctly identify the cause of the blackening in the first place. The faster the cause is determined, the faster the treatment is administered and the faster the plant is going to be able to recover and flourish again.

Image: istockphoto.com / Boyloso

Cacti are some of the most resilient plants on the planet, and can survive the harshest of desert conditions on very little water and with constant exposure to extreme heat.

The reason these plants can survive so well in the desert is thanks to several adaptations of their roots, leaves and stems. All of these adaptations are aimed at minimizing water loss while also storing as much water as possible for use during times of drought.

In this article, we will discuss the properties of cacti that set them apart from other plants and give them the ability to survive in the desert. If you want to learn more about these fascinating features, then keep reading.

How do cacti survive in the desert?

There are thousands of cactus species, and they come in all shapes and sizes. Even so, they have a very particular look that sets them apart from other plants, both succulent- and non-succulent. They have been a feature of many cultures over thousands of years, to whom they are a source of food and even medicine.

In deserts all over the world, including in Australia, the Americas and Africa, cacti are visited by tourists who travel long distances just to be able to marvel at them. Certain species have been proven to be hundreds of years old, yet still they seem perfectly able to deal with the harsh elements of their surroundings.

These plants are able to survive in desert conditions thanks to specific properties and adaptations they have evolved over millennia. We will discuss these below.

Shallow roots

Rain does occur in the desert on occasion, and cacti have developed particularly shallow roots that can extract water from the top layers of soil, in case the rainwater does not penetrate very deep.

Additionally, the plant actually grows temporary roots when the soil becomes moist, with the goal of absorbing as much water as possible during that short period of rain. It can grow these roots in the space of about two hours! When the rains cease, the roots wither.

As well as being close to the surface to maximize water absorption, the roots also extend to cover a large area. Once they have absorbed the water, the roots transport it to the plant’s stems for storage.

Spines

Cacti lack true branches and leaves that other plants have. Instead, their leaves have been modified to become spines. Their branches have small bumps, called areoles, from which the spines sprout from the plant.

This raises the question: How can the plant photosynthesize in the absence of leaves? Well, unlike other plants, in cacti it is the stems, not the leaves, that perform photosynthesis. As a result, cacti do not need leaves in the same way that other plants do. Additionally, because the desert gets plenty of sunlight, the stems have constant and easy access to sunlight. 

The spines are critical in preventing water evaporation, as they are thicker and have less surface area than leaves. Summer causes the majority of desert shrubs to droop and cease photosynthesis. That is not the case with cacti: they can continue to produce food, which is why they stand tall even during the sweltering summer months.

The spines on a cactus also create a buffer around the plant, reducing air flow and thus water evaporation. During the hot desert summers, the moist air contained within this buffer plays an important role in preventing water from evaporating from the plant’s surface.

Another function of the spines is to collect water for the plant. The Atacama Desert in Chile is one of the driest deserts on the planet, but it is common for this desert to be blanketed in fog in the early hours of the morning. This heavy dew, referred to as “camanchaca” by the locals, settles on the spines, liquefies into water, and drips onto the ground beneath the plant. The water is then absorbed by the cactus’ roots, which helps hydrate the plant and keep it alive.

The spines have a grooved structure that enhances the efficiency of their water collection. 

Spines also provide the cactus with some shade, even though they look a bit small for this job. There is a reason for the dense population of needles on a cactus, with a single plant having literally thousands of them. This density is designed to cover as much surface area as possible, providing sufficient shade to prevent a certain amount of evaporation.

The spines can also protect the plant from predators that might harm it. The desert is teeming with herbivorous animals who would relish the opportunity to munch on the juicy flesh of a cactus, but its spines are sharp enough to pierce through skin, making them very effective at keeping these animals away.

Stem

The cactus’ stem has the ability to store a significant amount of water, which is why the plant can thrive in even the hottest desert conditions.

Photosynthesis is the process by which plants manufacture food, using carbon dioxide in conjunction with sunlight and water. The carbon dioxide is absorbed through pores called stomata, and while carbon dioxide is inhaled, oxygen is exhaled. During this process a significant amount of moisture is also lost. And, while moisture loss may not be a major concern for plants that receive regular rainfall, it is a different story for those that grow in the desert. 

Desert plants must conserve as much water as possible, and to accommodate this, they only perform photosynthesis at night. Their stomata only open at night when temperatures are cooler, resulting in reduced water loss during the day. The opening and closing of the stomata is as regular as clockwork: they close automatically at dawn and reopen automatically at night. This process of night-time photosynthesis is referred to as crassulacean acid metabolism in scientific circles.

The stomata on a cactus are also extremely small, and are located deep within the tissue rather than at the surface. Both of these factors help to reduce water loss.

The cactus’ stem has thicker skin than the leaves of a normal plant, making it an efficient water reservoir that can hold more water than regular leaves. 

Another special feature of a cactus’ stem is that it can expand to store more water. If you were to cut off the stem and examine the cross-section, you would see that it is shaped like an accordion, which can easily expand and contract. As the plant uses up its water reserves, its stems will continue to shrink, and will expand again when they absorb water from the next rainfall.

Skin

The surface of a cactus is covered with a thin layer of waxy skin that aids in the prevention of water evaporation.

In addition, this surface helps keep the cactus cool in hot weather. Without it, the plant would dry out in the extreme heat.

Short growing season

In contrast to most plants that grow continuously, the cactus has periods during which it does not actively grow. A large amount of water is required for growth, and this is scarce in the plant’s natural environment.

For this reason, cacti only grow for a short season before taking a break until the following growing season begins. It is no surprise, then, that cacti grow more slowly and live longer than most other plants.

Conclusion

Cacti are some of the most resilient, drought-tolerant plants in the world. They have evolved over millennia to develop characteristics that aid their survival in harsh desert conditions.

These plants’ unique capabilities are what sets them apart from other plants that grow in more temperate climates.

The reason that cacti can survive in the desert is because of their shallow roots that can absorb water quickly, spines that provide shade and protection, stems that can photosynthesize economically and store a lot of water, skin that helps keep moisture locked in, and a short growing season.

All of these amazing traits have, for many thousands of years, ensured the survival of cacti in the world’s harshest climates.

Image: istockphoto.com / DGHayes

No, the Christmas cactus is not poisonous to cats. Neither its leaves nor its flowers are harmful if ingested by your feline.

However, it is still probably not the best idea to let your pet eat the plant, so if you spot your cat chewing on it, try moving it out of reach – this will preserve the plant’s aesthetic as well.

In this article we will discuss the possible effects on your cat if it ingests Christmas cactus, and what you should do in this situation.

What is a Christmas cactus?

The Christmas cactus is a succulent plant native to South America, and it gets its name because it blooms right around the holidays. Its festive and timely flowers make it a popular Christmas gift, too.

This plant has stems that grow in an arch as it gets older, making it look almost crab-like. Its flowers can come in a variety of colors, including orange, peach, salmon, cream, purple, white, magenta, pink or red.

Another reason the plant is popular is for longevity. Provided its basic needs are met and the plant is happy, it can survive for decades.

Being a tropical plant, it likes bright, indirect light as it would get in its native habitat, and moist, well-draining potting mix that is neutral to acidic in pH.

It is only hardy to zones 10 to 12, which means it does not do well in cold temperatures. If you live in a place with cold winters, it is best to bring the plant indoors before the frost starts.

Why does my cat eat plants?

There are a variety of reasons our feline companions might get stuck into our plants.

One such reason is to rid their bodies of parasites. Big cats in the wild frequently eat plants to eliminate parasites from their systems, and although we provide our domestic cats with medication that does the job, they still have an ingrained instinct to self-medicate with plants.

There are a number of reasons, too, that cats enjoy munching on greenery. Both curiosity and boredom, for example, are always present in a cat’s life. They may also inadvertently ingest plant matter while interacting with plants that appeal to their sense of smell or touch.

Are Christmas cacti poisonous to cats?

According to the ASPCA, the Christmas cactus is not poisonous to cats, making it a safe plant to have around the house during the holiday season. However, chemicals applied to the plant during its growth, such as insecticides and fertilizers, may be harmful.

That said, the absence of any chemicals on the plant does not entirely rule out the possibility of negative consequences if your pet consumes it. Eating flowers or stems may cause digestive problems, vomiting, or diarrhea, even though they are not harmful to the body per se.

It is also possible that your cat has food sensitivities, which could result in an allergic reaction to certain substances.

Are there other holiday plants which are poisonous to cats?

While the Christmas cactus is not toxic to cats, there are other Christmas plants that are extremely harmful to your kitty.

If ingested, lilies are particularly lethal to cats. Even a few leaves can be fatal. If your cat has ingested this plant, you will notice vomiting and dehydration which, if left untreated, can result in kidney failure.

Mistletoe contains a number of compounds that are toxic to cats. If your cat consumes this plant, it may experience abdominal pain, vomiting, drooling, diarrhea, hallucinations, breathing difficulties, a sudden and sharp drop in blood pressure, seizure, and even death. This is one plant you should definitely avoid bringing into your home if you are a cat owner.

The fir Christmas tree can also be harmful to your cat. Not only does it contain oils that can cause excessive vomiting and irritate your pet’s mouth, but, when eaten, the needles can also puncture or obstruct the intestinal tract. And that’s not all. The water in which your tree is sitting may contain fertilizer, mold, and bacteria that could make your cat sick after just a few sips. If you have a Christmas tree, secure it so that your cat cannot get close to play.

And finally, winter cherry is a member of the nightshade family and is extremely toxic to animals. Consumption of this plant by your cat may cause digestive problems, diarrhea, respiratory depression, seizures, and shock.

Can I fix my broken Christmas cactus that my cat damaged?

Yes, you can fix your Christmas cactus if your cat has damaged it. If there are stems or leaves that have broken off, you can use them to propagate the plant.

You will first need to lay these stems or leaves on a dry surface and allow them to callus over for a few days. Then, fill a new pot with well-draining potting mix; preferably one that is made specifically for cacti or succulents. Plant the stems or leaves in the middle of the pot, moisten the soil, and place the pot in a spot that gets bright, indirect light, is nicely humid, and gets good air circulation.

Water the plant when the top two inches of soil in the pot become dry to the touch. Do not allow all of the soil to dry out because this can affect the development of the new roots.

After one to two months, the stem will have grown roots of a decent length. You can check on their development by tugging gently on the stem. If there is resistance, that means the roots are well-anchored and you can now care for the plant as you would a regular Christmas cactus.

How do I keep my cat away from my Christmas cactus?

Due to cats’ inherent curiosity, it can be quite challenging to keep a plant safe from them, especially if your cat has developed a liking for a particular plant.

As we have established, Christmas cacti are non-toxic to cats if ingested, but they can still cause possible problems to the cat, especially if too much is ingested.  This means it is still important to keep the plant out of reach of your cat.

The easiest way to keep your kitty’s grubby paws away from your Christmas cactus is simply to place it in a hard-to-reach area. If you have a tall shelf, you can place the plant on that, or you could choose to plant it in a hanging basket or planter that can be hung from the ceiling. Your can will probably be unable to reach the plant at this height.

Another measure you could take is to use a cat deterrent spray on your cactus to discourage him from messing with the plant. You can make a homemade version of a cat deterrent spray by mixing water and lemon juice. Just spray the mixture on the leaves so that they will have a sour taste when the cat bites them. Do not pour this mixture into the soil, though, because this is not good for the plant.

Something else you can do is to keep a spray bottle of water handy when you are sitting near the plant. If your cat starts getting too close to the plant, spray it with the water. This will train the cat to leave the plant alone, as it will associate the plant with getting sprayed with water.

Conclusion

No, the Christmas cactus is not poisonous to cats, but this does not mean you should let your cat eat it, because chemicals could have been used on the plant, such as insecticides or fertilizers, that may be harmful to cats.

The fiber content in the plant can also cause vomiting and diarrhea.

If your cat keeps trying to eat your Christmas cactus, it is best to place the plant in a spot that is out of the cat’s reach.

Image: istockphoto.com / wjarek

A healthy orchid’s leaves are typically smooth and rarely have any unusual texture. If the leaves on your orchid look shriveled, this usually means there is an environmental factor that is stressing the plant and will need resolving.

The sooner you are able to determine the cause of the problem, the faster you can address it and the sooner the plant will recover.

The most common causes of shriveled orchid leaves are too much water, not enough water, and low humidity.

In this article, we will discuss more about each of these problems and how to fix each of them. So, if you are currently experiencing this problem with your orchid, keep reading to learn more.

Why are my orchid’s leaves shriveling?

Too much water

If you give your plant too much water, its leaves can become shriveled due to the roots being compromised.

There are several ways your orchid can end up overwatered: You might be giving it too much water each time you water it, watering it more often than you need to, using a poorly-draining potting mix or pot, or not adjusting your watering habits to changes in the weather, season or climate.

If the potting mix around the orchid’s roots is too compact and dense, it will retain water a little too well and the orchid’s roots will be constantly exposed to moisture, which is not ideal for this plant. Many orchid plants are epiphytic, meaning their roots can actually absorb moisture directly from the air. 

With continued overwatering, the orchid can develop root rot. This is a condition caused by prolonged exposure of the roots to waterlogged soil or potting medium, so that they are never able to dry out and they eventually drown and die.

The dead roots will begin to rot, and will become susceptible to opportunistic soil-borne pathogens, such as fungi and bacteria, that will make the rot even more aggressive.

It will spread until all of the roots are affected, at which point the plant will no longer be able to absorb water and nutrients. This will cause the leaves to shrivel, and eventually the plant will succumb and die.

If you think your orchid is overwatered, you need to stop watering it immediately and transfer it to a spot with lots of light and good air circulation. This will help the potting mix dry out faster.

If you suspect root rot, you will need to remove the orchid from its pot so that you can inspect the roots. Be gentle as you unpot the plant, because the roots may be quite fragile in their current state.

Healthy roots are green in color, and firm when you touch them, while dead and rotten roots will be brown or black, and soft and mushy to the touch. Remove the rotten roots using a sterile pair of pruning scissors until only the healthy, green roots remain.

Prepare a new pot for the orchid by filling it with a fresh orchid potting mix. Plant the orchid in the new pot and water it very lightly. Do not water it again until the potting mix is dry to the touch.

Not enough water

The most logical cause of shriveled orchid leaves is probably underwatering. This is a safe assumption that is often the truth. If you do not give the orchid the water that it needs, it will not be able to maintain the smooth, plump appearance of its leaves.

Shriveled leaves on an underwatered plant are typically accompanied by shriveled roots and dry potting mix.

If an orchid is underwatered, it not only loses moisture; it will also be unable to absorb its required nutrients and minerals from the potting mix. Just like other plants, orchids use water as a vessel to transport these substances from the potting mix into the roots and throughout the plant.

This is why an underwatered plant becomes weak and flaccid.

If you suspect that your orchid is not getting enough water, you need to water it immediately and then keep an eye on the roots and foliage to see whether they are recovering well.

There is no set schedule that you can just follow when it comes to watering your orchid. It is best to check the condition of the roots and the potting mix every few days, so that you know exactly when it needs watering.

A good rule is to touch the potting medium in the pot and, if it feels dry, water the plant. If it still feels a little bit damp, rather wait a day or two and then check it again. That said, even if the top of the medium feels damp to the touch, it could be that the roots at the bottom of the pot have dried out. If that is the case, you can water the orchid.

Developing good watering habits is the best way to prevent any water-related problems for your plant. Also always remember to adjust your watering according to changes in the weather, season or climate.

Low humidity

Another reason your orchid’s leaves are shriveling may be that the humidity around the plant is too low. In such conditions, the rate at which water is transpired, or lost, is accelerated. The plant will struggle to maintain a healthy level of moisture in its body, and when it loses too much water too quickly, its leaves will start to shrivel.

Remember that most commercially-available orchids are native to tropical regions where the humidity is high, allowing their aerial roots to absorb moisture directly from the air. It is therefore best if you can maintain a humidity level of 40 to 70 percent around your plant.

If you live in a particularly dry climate, you might need to take measures to artificially raise the humidity in the space where you keep your orchid.

You can do this by misting the plant once in a while, or you could keep it in one of the more humid rooms of your house, such as the bathroom or the kitchen.

You can also use a pebble tray filled with water. Place the plant’s pot over the pebble tray and, as the water evaporates, it will moisten the air around the orchid.

If you have other plants that enjoy higher than normal humidity, you can group the orchid close to these plants and together they will create a microclimate around themselves.

If you have the means, a humidifier is a good way to automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

Finally, if the plant has become very shriveled due to low humidity, you can place a plastic bag over the top of it temporarily. This creates a greenhouse effect around the plant, making a very humid environment very quickly, and your orchid’s leaves should be plump again in no time. Of course, this will depend on the severity of the damage to the leaves. The less damage, the faster they will recover, and vice versa.

While you have the plant under the plastic bag, do not put it under direct sunlight or anywhere that gets too much of the sun’s heat. This will create too much heat inside the bag, and can harm the plant.

If you want to be extra vigilant about your humidity levels, you can purchase a humidity meter. It costs very little and gives you an accurate reading of the temperature and humidity in your home. It can also record the highest and lowest temperatures and humidity levels, so that you know the exact range of conditions that your plant goes through in a day.

Conclusion

When an orchid is healthy and happy, its leaves have an even, green color all over, and they are taut, plump and rubbery. If an orchid’s leaves are shriveling, this means there is something wrong with it.

Shriveled orchid leaves are a sign of stress caused by a change in the plant’s environment that is affecting its health. You will need to identify the cause of the stress in order to accurately and promptly rectify the problem.

The most common causes of shriveled orchid leaves are too much water, not enough water, and low humidity.

To avoid both overwatering and underwatering your orchid, you need to develop good watering habits. Before watering your plant, check the moisture in the potting medium by touching it. If the top of the potting medium is dry, water the plant, but if it is still a bit damp, wait one or two days and check again.

Most orchids are tropical plants that prefer higher humidity than the average houseplant. If you live in a place where the climate is particularly dry, you might need to artificially raise the humidity in the space where you keep your orchid.

Whatever the cause of the shriveled leaves, the sooner you can pinpoint it and take action, the sooner your plant will make a full recovery.

Image: istockphoto.com / Martysjahlushyk

The string of dolphins is a succulent plant popular for the dolphin-shaped leaves from which it gets its name. These uniquely shaped leaves grow on long tendrils, making the plant a great choice for a hanging pot.

One of the most common problems encountered by owners of this plant is when its normally plump and fleshy leaves start to shrivel.

This is usually due to improper care, and could be related to high temperatures, too much sunlight, insufficient water or too much water.

In this article, we will discuss each of these possible causes of a shriveling string of dolphins plant, and what you can do to fix the problem. So, if you are currently experiencing this problem and you wish to learn more, just keep reading.

String of dolphins shriveling – Causes

High temperature

The string of dolphins, despite being a succulent, cannot withstand temperatures higher than 85 degrees Fahrenheit. In high temperatures, the plant will suffer heat stress due to the increased evaporation rate, and the more water is lost from its leaves, the more shriveled they will become. If iit suffers extreme heat stress, the plant will also shed some leaves in order to reduce water loss.

If your plant is currently outside, the best thing to do is bring it indoors where the temperature is more stable. If you prefer to keep it outdoors, move it to a shadier spot or cover it with a shade cloth to help keep it cool. Another simple trick to avoid heat stress is to water your plant first thing in the morning every day during hot weather.

Too much sunlight

It is not only hot weather that causes heat stress; exposure to excessive sunlight can also damage the plant. Direct sunlight is not a favorite of the string of dolphins; it scorches and shrivels the plant’s fleshy leaves.

If you believe that your string of dolphins is shriveling as a result of direct sunlight, you should relocate it as soon as possible. Put it in a shady location where no direct sunlight will touch its foliage. For optimal growth, this plant requires six hours of medium, indirect sunlight per day, so a south-facing window is an ideal spot for it.

If the only window in your home lets in harsh light, you can still place the plant next to it, but first place a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the intensity of the light.

Not enough water

Although the string of dolphins is a succulent that does not need water that often, that does not mean that you can just neglect its watering needs altogether. The plant still needs water to survive, not only for moisture but because water acts as a vessel to transport nutrients and minerals from the soil. Without water in the soil, not only will the plant be dehydrated; it will also weaken due to a lack of essential nutrients.

When this plant does not receive enough water, it will attempt to conserve it by wrinkling its leaves. This decreases the leaves’ surface area, resulting in a reduced evaporation rate. If you notice very dry soil soil at the same time as the plant’s leaves are shriveling, then underwatering is most likely the cause of the problem.

Fortunately it is much easier to revive an underwatered plant than an overwatered one. All you need to do is thoroughly water your plant and place it in a spot where it can get medium levels of sunlight.

To prevent underwatering in the future, you need to develop better watering habits. There are many factors that can affect the rate at which the soil in the pot dries out, so you cannot just set a routine watering schedule. You are better off actually checking the moisture level in the soil by feeling it. Poke your finger into the soil and, if the top two inches of soil feel dry, water the plant. If the soil in the pot is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

Too much water

Another reason your string of dolphins is shriveling could be that it is getting too much water. Overwatering can be caused by giving the plant too much water each time you water it, watering it more often than necessary, using a poorly-draining potting mix or pot, or not adjusting your watering habits to changes in the weather, season or climate.

The string of dolphins is a succulent, which means it can absorb and retain water in its body, unlike regular houseplants. This gives it the ability to survive long periods without water, because it will simply use its own water stores.

For this reason, a string of dolphins does not actually need to be watered as much as other plants, and it is more prone to overwatering.

An overwatered string of dolphins will have yellow, shriveled leaves that feel soft and mushy to the touch. This is because the plant will continue to absorb the excess water in the soil until its cells become overloaded and burst. This is why the leaves might also feel slightly slimy when touched.

A serious consequence of continued overwatering is root rot. This is a condition caused by prolonged exposure of the roots to waterlogged soil, so that they are unable to dry out between waterings and eventually drown. The dead roots will start to rot and will be susceptible to opportunistic pathogens, such as fungi and bacteria, in the soil. These will make the rot more aggressive and cause it to spread faster to the rest of the plant. Eventually, the entire plant will be affected and may even die.

If you think your string of dolphins has been overwatered, you need to stop watering it immediately and place it somewhere warm and sunny so that the soil can dry out as fast as possible. Do remember that it should not receive too much direct sunlight, though.

If you suspect root rot, you will need to remove the plant from the pot to check. Wash off as much soil as you can from the roots, and do this gently because the roots will be fragile in this state.

Inspect all of the roots for sections that have turned brown or black; these are rotten and will have to be removed. Use a sterile pair of scissors to cut off the infected roots until only the healthy white parts remain.

Place the plant on a dry surface to allow the roots to air-dry while you fill a new pot with fresh potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more soil.

Water the soil thoroughly until you can see excess water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Finally, place the pot in a spot where the plant can get bright, indirect light and good air circulation.

Prevent overwatering and root rot by knowing how to tell when your plant needs to be watered. You can do this by touching the soil in the pot with your finger: If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant, but if not, wait one or two days before checking the soil again.

Also make sure that the pot you use has drainage holes at the bottom, and that the soil is not too dense, compact or heavy. All of these factors will help to ensure that not too much water is retained around the plant’s roots.

Other common string of dolphins problems

Drooping foliage

If your plant has droopy foliage but no other unusual symptoms, it usually means that it needs more humidity. To thrive indoors, the string of dolphins likes humidity levels of 40 to 50 percent. If the indoor humidity falls below 40 percent, you may need to take measures to artificially increase it.

One option is to mist the plant once in a while to moisten the air around it. You can also use a pebble tray filled with water, and place the plant on top of the tray so that as the water evaporates, it moistens the air around the plant.

Alternatively, you can place the plant in one of the more humid rooms of the house, such as the kitchen or the bathroom. If you have other plants that enjoy humidity, place them all together so they can create a microclimate around one another.

If you have the means, you can also buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in the room without you having to worry about it.

If your plant’s leaves are droopy as well as flaccid, it is likely desperate for more water. Simply water it thoroughly and place it in a shady spot to recover. 

Inadequate light exposure can also result in droopy foliage; in that case, the leaves will also be paler than normal.

Yellowing leaves with spots

The most obvious sign of a pest infestation is the presence of spots and yellowing on the leaves. Mealy bugs, spider mites, aphids, and scale insects are the most common pests that attack the string of dolphins. 

To eliminate these pests, spray the plant with a pesticide. You can make your own natural pesticide by diluting neem oil in water.

If the leaves are yellow but do not have any spots on them, then you are possibly either overwatering or underwatering your plant. Overexposure to sunlight can also cause yellowing leaves. 

String of dolphins care

Light

Although it is easily sunburned in direct sunlight outdoors, a string of dolphins thrives on at least six hours of sunlight per day when grown indoors.

While a south-facing window is ideal, it can also be grown indoors in medium light. If necessary, supplement with grow lights.

Soil

As is the case with the majority of succulents, the string of dolphins prefers well-draining soil. While commercially available cactus or succulent mixes are suitable for this plant, you can also make your own mix at home by combining two parts potting soil, one part pumice or perlite, and one part sand.

Water 

Because the string of dolphins can store water in its foliage, it is considered drought-tolerant and does not require frequent watering.

Allow sufficient time for the soil to dry out completely between waterings, and then water the plant thoroughly. This will help to avoid root rot. Reduce watering in the fall and winter, when the temperatures are lower and the plant is dormant.

Temperature and Humidity

When grown indoors, a string of dolphins thrives in average household temperatures and humidity levels. While these plants are not frost tolerant, they do tolerate cooler temperatures than the average succulent, and can withstand temperatures as low as 40 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter.

If you live in a cold climate, you do not need to be as cautious about placing your plant near cold or drafty windows as you would with, say, a string of pearls plant.

Fertilizer

The string of dolphins does not require regular fertilization, and excessive fertilizer can actually cause the leaves to lose their iconic dolphin shape. They can, however, benefit from a light feeding in the early spring to aid growth and blooming.

It is usually recommended to use an organic fertilizer such as worm compost, liquid kelp, or fish emulsion.

Conclusion

The string of dolphins is a beautiful succulent known for its unique, dolphin-shaped leaves.

One of the most common problems with this plant is when its normally plump and fleshy leaves become shriveled.

This is a sign that your plant is stressed due to some environmental factor, and you will need to establish exactly what this is in order to fix the problem promptly.

The most common reasons for a string of dolphins to shrivel are high temperatures, too much sunlight, too much water, or not enough water.

Image: istockphoto.com / Bilal photos

Etiolation in cacti is a process by which the plant becomes paler, its stems become unnaturally long and thin, and its growth becomes stunted.

This happens when the plant endures a lack of light for extended periods of time. Its limbs become long and thin because it has become desperate for any available light and is literally growing in the direction of the nearest light source. 

A cactus, like any plant, cannot survive without light; it needs it to photosynthesize.

In this article, we will discuss more about cactus etiolation, what you can do to fix the problem, and how to prevent it from happening in future.

What is cactus etiolation?

Etiolation is a plant’s response, or survival strategy, in the absence of sufficient light for prolonged periods of time.

Cacti live in some of the sunniest regions on earth and have adapted to flourish in these conditions. That means that if you are growing a cactus at home, the best light you can give it is the same bright light it would get in the wild.

If the cactus does not get the light that it needs, its growth will be affected.

Etiolation itself is not harmful to the plant, although it can affect the plant’s symmetry and aesthetic. The lack of light, on the other hand, is of great concern in this situation, and will need to be addressed promptly if you want to save your cactus.

Signs of cactus etiolation

Stunted growth

An etiolated cactus will not grow as well as one that gets all the light it needs. This is because, without light, it cannot photosynthesize properly, which is how a plant creates food for itself to grow.

The cactus will therefore be shorter and thinner than it should be.

Paler color

Another sign of etiolation is a loss of color in the plant. This is one of the first signs you might notice in your cactus. Chlorophyll is the green pigment that a plant produces through photosynthesis, and that is what gives plants their green color. The less chlorophyll there is, the less green the plant becomes, becoming more yellow or white instead.

Thinner growth at the top

A healthy cactus tends to have a rounder and thicker upper part. If you see pointy growth at the top of the plant, it could be due to etiolation. The new growth will look something like a pyramid because the plant is trying to grow longer, as fast as possible, using the remaining resources it has. Growing a thick stem will take too much of its energy, which it does not have in its current state.

The cactus is favoring one side

This is another tell-tale sign of etiolation. An etiolated cactus might lean to one side if the closest source of light is in that direction.

This happens even to cacti that do get light but are not rotated regularly. It is always best to place the plant in a spot where all sides can get exposure to the light, so that it grows straight and even.

Abnormal looking spines

An etiolated cactus will also have malformed spines. The spaces between the spines will start to become wider and wider, while each spine becomes shorter and thinner. The spines can even cease to grow altogether.

No blooms

Low light conditions and etiolation can also affect the cactus’ ability to produce flowers. This is because of the reduced resources and energy caused by the lack of light.

A cactus’ energy and resources become very depleted when it is etiolated, so the plant will concentrate what little stores it still has on survival, which it does by growing long, thin limbs to reach the nearest source of light. Flowers are not its priority in this situation.

Cactus etiolation – Causes

Low light conditions

The majority of cacti require a great deal of light. As a result, if they are grown indoors, their growth is stunted to some extent.

Cacti stretch out in search of better lighting conditions, so when they do not get enough light, they will lose their natural shape and become distorted.

For this reason, before you bring your succulents or cacti indoors, it is critical to understand their lighting requirements and position them where they can receive sufficient light.

Uneven lighting

Although the amount of light is important, the direction of the light also plays a role, because if there is only light coming from one angle, the cactus will try to orient itself toward that.

For example, they will stretch toward windows or other nearby light sources in order to get more light. Rotating the pot on a regular basis will help to prevent this from happening.

You should rotate the plant every few months if you keep it near a window; you can do this when you water them.

Cactus is unable to go dormant in the winter

Another common reason for etiolation in cacti is if they are not able to go into dormancy over winter. Your cactus will naturally hibernate if you live in a region where winters are long and cold, as is the case in many parts of the world.

If the plant cannot go dormant at the appropriate time, it will continue to grow in an unfavorable environment, and will become etiolated.

To prevent this from happening, you need to observe the plant’s dormancy period, and even force it to hibernate if necessary. To induce hibernation, stop fertilizing over winter, expose the plant to lower temperatures, and reduce your watering significantly.

When temperatures begin to fall in the northern hemisphere, in October and November, you can begin to make these changes that will help your cactus enter its hibernation state.

How to fix an etiolated cactus

When a cactus is etiolated, it is not possible to restore its aesthetic. You can, however, attempt to correct the growing conditions and make it more healthy going forward.

Reduce the amount of water you use

In response to excessive watering, cactus roots will spread outwards to reach the water, and away from nutrients. 

If you reduce your watering, you should see a better balance between root growth and nutrient absorption.

Increase the exposure to natural light

This is the most straightforward measure to correct etiolation in cacti. If your cactus has been in low light conditions for a while, you need to expose it gradually to more and more light each day, until it adapts to normal levels of light again. If you keep the plant near a window, make sure to rotate it every couple of weeks so that it grows evenly.

Take the cactus outdoors

In some cases, if a cactus has recently been relocated to an area with limited natural light, it may begin to show signs of etiolation.

In this case, it may be necessary to move the plant to a more suitable location.

If you do not have any outdoor space for it, move it to a sunnier spot or place it in front of a window that lets in lots of sunlight.

Increase the air circulation

It is possible for etiolation to occur due to insufficient air circulation around your plants.

Make sure that the foliage is not cramped against other plants or objects, as this will allow for better circulation around it.

Pruning and trimming

Etiolation can also be caused by damage to the plant’s foliage in certain circumstances.

The most effective way to deal with this is to remove any damaged parts as soon as possible, before they rot or become infected with bacteria. If you want to take preventative measures against future problems, you can use a fungicidal spray.

Trimming etiolated cacti is one of the most straightforward methods of treatment. If there is a section of the cactus that became thin from etiolation but has now started growing normally again, making the top part thicker and heavier, this can cause the thin section to snap or break. You might need to cut that section off at the thin part. Do not worry, though, because you can actually use that cut stem as a cutting to propagate the plant.

How to prevent cactus etiolation

It is possible to avoid etiolation if you take the necessary precautions. The most important point to keep in mind is that cacti are desert plants that require a lot of light.

Try to get the plant outside as much as possible if you live in an area with poor lighting. This will ensure that it receives adequate sunlight for photosynthesis.

Another way to prevent etiolation is to water the plant correctly – neither too much nor too little – while also ensuring that the plant’s skin does not come into contact with too much water.

Last but not least, it is critical to ensure that your cactus receives the nutrients that it requires.

If you feed your cactus properly and provide it with adequate light for photosynthesis, it will grow tall and strong, with healthy spines.

Conclusion

Cactus etiolation is a condition wherein the plant starts growing unnaturally long and thin stems and becomes pale, due to a lack of sunlight.

The plant has been in low light conditions for so long that it has become desperate for light to survive, so it uses all its remaining energy to stretch itself toward the closest source of light.

A cactus can also become etiolated if one side of the plant does not get as much light exposure as the other, or if it is not able to go dormant during the winter.

You can save an etiolated cactus by transferring it to a sunnier spot, giving it a little less water and good air circulation, and pruning it if necessary.

Prevent etiolation by making sure that your plant always gets the light it needs.

Image: istockphoto.com / Eduarda Brodbeck

Ivy is a popular plant that is typically used as a groundcover or made to grow up a trellis in the backyard. It is a low-maintenance plant that can grow well with minimal attention, while also adding a pop of life to your home.

One of the common problems encountered by ivy owners is when their plant’s leaves turn dry and crispy.

The most common reasons for this are too much water, too much fertilizer, insufficient light, low humidity, high temperatures, pests, or a buildup of minerals in the soil.

In this article, we will discuss each of these causes and how you can fix them. So, if you are having this problem with your ivy, keep reading to learn more.

Why are my ivy’s leaves turning dry and crispy?

Too much water

When you see dry, crispy ivy leaves, you might assume that this is due to a lack of water, which is a reasonable guess. But in the case of the ivy plant, these symptoms are most likely due to overwatering. Thus, your attempt to fix the issue by giving the ivy more water may, in fact, make the problem worse.

Ivy plants like their soil to be a little drier than most, and if you give them too much water it can cause root rot.

Root rot is a condition caused by prolonged exposure of the roots to waterlogged soil so that eventually they drown. The dead roots will start to rot and will be susceptible to soil-borne pathogens which will cause the rot to spread even faster until all of the roots succumb.

With no viable roots, the plant will no longer be able to absorb nutrients and moisture from the soil. This will affect the leaves, turning them brown and dry, especially around the edges.

To avoid dry and crispy leaves from overwatering, you need to let the soil around the plant’s roots dry out before you even think about watering it again. Touch the top two inches of soil in the pot: if the soil is dry, water the plant, but if it is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

Make sure that the pot you choose for your ivy has drainage holes at the bottom, and that they are not clogged with soil or pebbles. The drainage holes will let any excess water flow out and instead of stagnating around the plant’s roots.

Too much fertilizer

Although ivy planted in the garden does not require fertilizing, it is a good idea to feed a potted ivy plant with nitrogen-rich fertilizer to keep it healthy. However, timing is critical here, because too much fertilizer can cause a salt buildup in the potting mix and cause leaf scorch. The ivy leaves will turn brown, dry out, and become crunchy.

Spring, summer, and fall, when new growth is emerging, is the time to fertilize the plant. Do not fertilize it in winter, because this is when your ivy will be in its dormant phase and will not require as many nutrients as when it is actively growing.

Fertilize your plant once a month, using a liquid fertilizer.

Insufficient light

Regardless of whether you have a variegated or an all-green variety of ivy, it will grow in medium to bright light. Direct sunlight is not tolerated by any of the ivy varieties.

A young ivy plant requires extra care when it comes to light exposure. Avoid placing it near a bright, direct light source because it is prone to burning. It’s not a good idea to leave a young plant on a windowsill for the majority of the day.

Keep in mind that if you keep your indoor ivy in a poorly-lit location, its growth will slow. If it is too dark, your plant may eventually die.

Low humidity

Moderate humidity is ideal for ivy plants. They can thrive in the normal, lower levels of humidity found in most homes, but extremely dry air can cause the edges of their leaves to dry out and turn brown.

Also, avoid overcrowding your ivy plants in order to ensure that they receive adequate air circulation. You can keep ivy in the bathroom if you want to.

Additionally, purchasing a mister and placing it next to your plant is a good idea. Every time you pass, you can spray your plant with water to provide it with additional moisture.

Alternatively, the old-fashioned humidity tray method can be used; all you need is a saucer and some pebbles. Arrange the pebbles in the saucer, pour water around them, then place your potted ivy on top of the pebbles. The water will evaporate, increasing the humidity in the area surrounding your plant. 

High temperature

It is important to remember that ivy prefers temperatures in the cool to moderate range. This plant is native to Europe’s central and northern regions, where it flourishes in cool climates.

If your room temperature is too hot, it can be detrimental for your ivy. Try to keep the temperature between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, and 5 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit lower than that overnight.

You could consider placing your plant in a separate room, or in the kitchen, where it will be able to stay cooler.

Pest infestation

Although pest infestations are rare on outdoor ivy plants, they can occur. This generally happens for one of two reasons: your plant is either underwatered or it needs to be washed.

If the plant does not receive adequate water, it will become stressed and therefore weakened, which leaves it more vulnerable to pest infestations and diseases.

Moreover, if you do not give your plant a regular wash, dust and pests can accumulate on and behind the leaves.

Spider mites are the most common pests to attack ivy. They are tiny and black, and you can tell they are there by the small webs they leave under the leaves. Spider mites feed on the sap from the plant’s foliage, causing the leaves to turn brown and dry.

Washing your plant on a regular basis will help to keep pests away. All you need to do is place your plant in the shower and allow the water to run over it for a couple of minutes.

If you notice spider mites on your ivy, half-fill a spray bottle with warm water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid and spray this on your plant.

Keep the infested plant away from your other, healthy plants while you treat it, so that the pests do not spread.

Buildup of minerals

We have talked about the build-up of nutrients that can occur when you use an excessive amount of fertilizer. A similar situation occurs if you use tap water that contains a large number of mineral salts, which can cause an accumulation of salts in the soil.

A salt buildup in the soil can cause your plant’s leaf edges to burn, leaving them dry and crispy. 

Fortunately, you can easily resolve this situation. Replant your affected ivy in fresh potting soil and, from now on, only use distilled water to avoid further damage.

If you are able to collect rainwater, that is an even better alternative to distilled water; plus, it is free.

Conclusion

Ivy is a popular plant often grown as a groundcover or made to climb a trellis outside the house, but it can also be grown as an indoor plant.

It is low-maintenance and therefore perfect for those wanting a plant that does not need too much care and attention.

One of the most common problems encountered by ivy owners is dry, crispy leaves on their plants. The most common causes of this problem are too much water, too much fertilizer, insufficient light, low humidity, high temperatures, pests, or a buildup of minerals in the soil.

Image: istockphoto.com / izzzy71

Yes, Pilea is a succulent. It belongs to the Urticaceae family and is native to various tropical regions around the world, except for Australia and New Zealand.

Its leaves are thick and fleshy and can store water reserves for the plant to use in the event of a drought. It can thus survive warmer and drier climates than most houseplants, which makes it a great choice for beginner gardeners looking for resilient and low-maintenance plants.

In this article, we will discuss more about the pileas, their proper cultural care, and how to propagate them. So, if you are thinking of adding one to your collection, keep reading to learn more.

What is a pilea?

Pilea is a genus of perennial evergreen succulents comprising over 600 different species that are found all over the world.

The pilea varieties that are typically grown as houseplants are the smaller ones that are low-maintenance and easy to grow. They are a great starter plant for newbie gardeners who do not have a lot of experience with plants.

These plants are hardy to zones 9 to 11, so they need to be taken indoors before the frost starts or else they may die. You can take them back outdoors in the spring, when they are actively growing and the weather is pleasant enough.

Depending on the variety, a pilea may have heart-shaped leaves, mossy foliage, or even sword- or lance-shaped leaves. Its flowers, if and when it produces them, are cream or pink in color.

Is pilea a succulent?

Yes, pilea plants are considered succulents because they have fleshy leaves that can retain and store sufficient water for use in the event of a drought.

These plants are more able to survive warm and dry conditions than most regular houseplants, and do not need to be watered very often. In fact, they actually like their roots to dry out completely before being watered again.

Pilea plant care

Light requirements

The majority of pilea species like bright, indirect light. They do not do well under full sunlight; this can even burn the plant’s foliage.

These plants are tropical, and in their natural habitat they get only the dappled light that filters through the tree canopy above them.

If you think your pilea is getting too much light, you should move it to a shadier spot immediately. If you keep it outdoors, place it under a large tree, next to the side of your house, or on your porch or patio.

If you are growing the plant indoors, place it next to a window, preferably a north- or east-facing one, because these windows let in gentle light.

If the only windows in your home let in harsh light, you can still put the plant next to them, but you will probably have to diffuse the light with a sheer curtain.

Make sure you rotate the plant every couple of days so that all sides of it can get some time in the light.

Although this plant likes gentle light, that does not mean it will tolerate long periods in low light conditions. A plant that is not able to get the light that it needs will have pale and droopy leaves, and its growth will become stunted. The plant might also become leggy, or etiolated. Etiolation is a condition in which the plant’s stems literally grow in the direction of the nearest source of light, because the plant is so desperate for light to keep itself alive. The elongated stems do not actually hurt the plant, but they can affect its overall aesthetic.

If you keep the plant in a dark place for too long, you might kill it, so make sure it is kept where it can get the light that it needs. If you live in a place with little to no natural light for certain months of the year, you may need to buy a grow light to support it.

Water requirements

Pileas, like most succulents, do not require a lot of water because they can store water reserves in their foliage. Compared with regular houseplants, they are more than capable of surviving prolonged dry spells.

That said, if you keep your plant outdoors for long periods without rain, ensure that you water it when the soil has dried out, and saturate all of the soil so that all the roots get access to moisture.

An underwatered pilea will have yellow or brown leaves that have started to wilt. To remedy this, water the plant as soon as possible, and keep watering until you can see excess water draining out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Overwatering, on the other hand, is another common mistake made by plant owners. Excessive watering occurs when you give the plant too much water every time you water it, or when you water it more frequently than necessary. Other causes of overwatering include leaving the plant outside during rainy weather, using a pot with poor drainage, or failing to adjust your watering habits to the changing weather or season. The likelihood of overwatering is also greatly reduced if the soil around the roots is well-draining.

Overwatering causes the plant’s roots to be constantly submerged in waterlogged soil, preventing them from drying out sufficiently to absorb oxygen. The roots will drown and die as a result, and the dead roots will start to rot and become vulnerable to opportunistic pathogens such as fungi and bacteria. These pathogens will make the rot more aggressive and will cause it to spread faster to the rest of the plant. Once the rot has spread to the stems and leaves, it may be too late to save the plant.

You should stop watering your pilea as soon as you suspect it is overwatered. Place it in a sunny location to help the soil dry out faster.

If you suspect root rot, you will need to remove the plant from its pot to confirm this.

Having removed it from the pot, thoroughly rinse the roots to remove as much soil as you can. Because the roots are quite fragile at this point, proceed with caution.

Make a thorough inspection of all the roots, looking for any that have turned brown or black. These roots are rotten and will have to be pruned off and disposed of properly. This should be done with a sterile knife or scissors, leaving only the healthy white roots behind.

Place the plant on a dry paper towel to allow the roots to air-dry for a few hours after they have been pruned.

Fill a new pot two-thirds of the way with succulent potting mix and place the plant in the middle. Fill in the gaps around the roots with more soil, ensuring all of the roots are covered.

Water the soil until it is moist, then allow the excess water to drain out of the bottom of the pot.

Return the plant to its original location.

The most effective way to avoid both underwatering and overwatering is to develop good watering habits early on. You should only water the plant when the top two inches of soil in the pot feel dry to the touch. If the soil is still a little wet, it is best to wait one or two days before checking it again. 

Soil requirements

Pilea plants like well-draining soil that is moderately rich. Do not use soil that is too dense or heavy, because it will retain too much water and increase the chances of overwatering and root rot.

Use a peat-based succulent potting mix that includes leaf mold and perlite. Often, African violet soil mix works well for pilea plants.

The pot that you choose for your pilea should also have sufficient drainage holes at the bottom of the pot to allow any excess water to flow out easily. This will also help reduce the possibility of overwatering and root rot.

If there is a saucer beneath the pot to catch water, make sure that you empty it after watering the plant, because the standing water in the saucer can also make its way back into the soil and overwater the plant.

Temperature and humidity

Pilea plants like temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. If you are keeping the plant outdoors and the frost is about to set it, take the plant indoors.

Keep the indoor temperature between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit and the plant should be fine. Also keep it away from radiators or heater vents because this can quickly dry it out. The same goes for air conditioners and areas where cold drafts from doors and windows can reach the plant.

These plants are tropical, so they prefer their humidity higher than some other plants. If you live in a place where the humidity is low, you might have to take measures to help the plant out in this regard.

You can mist the plant with water every once in a while, or keep it in one of the more humid rooms in your home, like the bathroom or the kitchen.

You can also place the plant’s pot over a water pebble tray, and as the water in the pebble tray evaporates, it will add humidity to the air around the plant.

If you have other plants that enjoy high humidity, group them together with the pilea so they can create a microclimate around each other.

And finally, if you have the budget, you can also buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

Fertilizer requirements

If the plant is grown outdoors, you do not really need to fertilize it because it can get all its nutrients and minerals from the soil.

If you are growing the plant indoors in a pot and you have not repotted it for some time, you may need to feed it with a liquid fertilizer at half-strength. Do this only when the plant is actively growing, in the spring and summer.

Refrain from feeding the plant during the winter because it will not be able to use all the minerals in the soil, and this can cause a salt buildup that can burn the roots and damage the plant.

If you think you have given the plant too much fertilizer, you can flush the soil with water to get rid of the excess minerals.

Propagating pilea plants

The pilea plant grows offsets, or baby plants, at its base, so you can simply remove those and use them to propagate the plant. If your plant does not have offsets yet, it may be a bit young and you will have to wait until they sprout.

Use a sterile knife to cut an offset from the base of the plant, coming as close to the soil as you can.

Place the offset in a glass of water, making sure that the stem is submerged in the water. Avoid submerging any of the leaves, because this can cause them to rot. If you have to remove some of the leaves near the base of the stem, then do so.

Place the glass of water with the offset in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light. Change the water in the glass when it starts to get murky or smell unpleasant.

After two weeks, there should be some roots growing from the bottom of the stem.

Wait a few more weeks until the roots are about an inch long, and then transfer the plant to a pot filled with well-draining succulent soil. Make sure all of the roots are covered with soil.

You can now care for the plant the same way you would a regular plant. 

Pests

The most common pests seen on pilea plants are scale insects, mealybugs, spider mites and aphids.

These pests all damage the plant by sucking the sap from its foliage.

They will not go away on their own, and they can also reproduce quickly. They hide in the folds of the plant’s foliage as well as the soil.

When the plant has a significant infestation, the leaves will turn yellow and may start to droop.

Before treating your plant, you need to take it to another room and isolate it, so that the pests do not spread to your other, healthy plants.

You can try to remove the pests one by one, manually, but this is only really effective for small infestations that you have caught in the early stages.

For larger infestations, remove any leaves and stems that are too heavily-damaged. Those cannot be salvaged and you are better off just getting rid of them.

You can then use insecticidal soap to kill the insects, or wipe down the plant with a cotton ball soaked in neem oil.

Repeat your chosen method every three days until you are sure that all the insects are gone.

Conclusion

Yes, pilea plants are perennial evergreen succulents native to all continents except Australia and New Zealand.

They have fleshy leaves that can absorb and store water, and this allows them to survive longer periods of drought than most other plants.

These plants need bright, indirect light, water when their soil is dry, well-draining soil and pot, normal room temperature, high humidity, and fertilizer when they are actively growing.

They can be propagated using the offsets that sprout from the base of the plant.

Pileas are low-maintenance houseplants and a great choice for newbie gardeners.

Image: istockphoto.com / f.ield_of_vision

The string of turtles, or Peperomia prostrata, is a succulent that belongs to the Piperaceae family. This plant is native to Brazil where it grows in rainforests, but it also has no problem thriving as a houseplant.

The string of turtles is known for its unique leaf shape that makes it a perfect addition to a terrarium or a small garden. The leaves look like tiny turtle shells growing from a long vine. 

In this article, we will discuss more about the string of turtles succulent and its proper cultural care. So, if you are thinking about adding one of these to your collection, keep reading to learn more.

What is a string of turtles?

The string of turtles is a small, slow-growing, trailing plant that reaches full maturity at three to five years.

It is a great plant for people who live in apartments or condominiums, because it takes up very little space while adding a pop of color and life to your living area.

Its leaves feature attractive, multi-colored patterns that can cover their entire surface, but their colors will become more muted as the plant gets older. By the time it reaches full maturity, the leaf colors are usually a combination of dark and lighter green.

The plant can grow to about a foot long and four inches wide.

Is the string of turtles a succulent?

Yes, the string of turtles is a succulent, because its leaves are thick and fleshy and can store water for the plant to use in the event of a drought.

The plant can also tolerate hot, dry weather better than most houseplants. This is another characteristic of succulents, and makes them a great choice for people who want a low-maintenance plant that does not need to be watered too often.

String of turtles – Care

Light requirements

The string of turtles likes to get lots of light, but only the indirect kind. It does not do well under direct light because the intensity can damage its foliage and cause the leaves to turn brown and crispy.

If you think your plant is getting too much light, transfer it to a shadier area immediately. Also check the soil and, if it has completely dried out, water it.

If you are growing the plant indoors, place it near a north- or east-facing window because these windows let in the right kind of light for this plant. If the only window available in your home lets in harsh light, you can still place the plant next to it, but consider placing a sheer curtain over the window first, to diffuse the light’s intensity.

If you live in a place where natural light can be scarce for a few months of the year, you can also support the plant with a grow light. While natural light is always best, artificial light is a serviceable alternative.

Watering requirements

As with most succulents, the string of turtles requires less watering than most other houseplants because it can store water reserves in its leaves and stems.

Furthermore, it is important that its roots are allowed to dry out between waterings to enable them to absorb oxygen which is necessary for the plant’s survival.

You are overwatering your plant if you give it too much water each time you water it, if you water it more frequently than necessary, if the soil or container are poorly-draining, or if you do not adjust your watering habits to changes in the weather, season, or climate.

An overwatered string of turtles will have yellowing leaves that are soft and mushy to the touch. This is because the plant will continue to absorb excess water from the soil until its cells become overloaded and burst.

Root rot is a more serious consequence of overwatering. When the roots are not allowed to dry out between waterings, they eventually drown and die. The dead roots will start to rot and will be vulnerable to soil-borne pathogens such as fungi and bacteria, which will exacerbate the rot and accelerate its spread throughout the plant. If the leaves have turned brown and mushy, this usually indicates that the entire plant has succumbed to the rot and cannot be saved.

If you believe your plant has been overwatered, immediately stop watering it and allow the soil to dry completely before watering it again. You can also move the plant to a sunnier spot to allow the soil to dry out faster.

If you suspect root rot, you will need to remove the plant from its pot to confirm this. Remove as much soil as possible from the roots, and be gentle because the roots will be vulnerable in this state. Inspect the roots thoroughly for brown or blackened sections, which are rotten and must be removed.

Cut away the rotten roots with a sterile knife or scissors until only the healthy, white roots remain, and place the plant on a dry surface for a few hours to allow the roots to air-dry.

Fill a new pot halfway with succulent soil mix, place the plant in the center of the pot, and cover the roots with more soil.

Water the soil until it is thoroughly saturated and excess water can be seen dripping from the bottom of the pot. Move the plant to a spot that receives bright, indirect light.

If you underwater the plant, on the other hand, it will become dehydrated and will be unable to absorb nutrients and minerals from the soil. Simply because it is a succulent does not mean you can ignore its water requirements indefinitely.

If you believe the plant has become underwatered, water it immediately. Soak the soil completely until excess water drains out through the drainage holes. This is to ensure that all of the roots have had access to water.

Soil requirements

The string of turtles likes well-draining, airy soil. A peat-based succulent soil mix is ideal.

In its natural habitat, the rainforests of Brazil, the plant grows in loamy soil that is moist most of the time. It is best to try to simulate these conditions in your home, but also make sure that the soil is never soggy or waterlogged.

As mentioned above, waterlogged soil can cause overwatering and root rot.

If the soil is well-draining, any excess water can simply flow out and will not stagnate around the plant’s roots.

If you think that your soil is not sufficiently well-draining, you can mix in perlite and coarse sand.

Also try to keep the soil’s pH at around 5 to 7.

The pot that you use should also have drainage holes at the bottom, so that the water that drains through the soil can escape from the pot and not be reabsorbed.

Temperature requirements

Keep your string of turtles within a temperature range of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It is important to make sure the temperature never goes below 50 degrees for extended periods of time.

This plant is native to tropical rainforests, so it does not take well to cold temperatures. It is not frost hardy and can only survive in hardiness zones 10 to 12. If you live in a place with cold winters, be vigilant of temperature changes and take the plant indoors when necessary.

If it is left out in cold weather for a long time, its leaves and vines will wilt.

Humidity requirements

Because the plant is native to rainforests, it appreciates a bit more humidity than the typical succulent. The humidity level around the string of turtles should be at least 50 percent.

If you live in a place that is particularly dry, you might have to take measures to increase the humidity around the plant.

You can do this by misting the plant once in a while. It should be in a sunny spot when you mist it so that the leaves do not stay wet for too long, as that can lead to fungal growth.

You can also move the plant to one of the more humid parts of the house, such as the bathroom or the kitchen.

Alternatively, place the plant’s pot on top of a water pebble tray and, as the water evaporates, it will humidify the air around the plant.

If you have other plants that also enjoy humidity, you can place them near your string of turtles so that together they create a microclimate around themselves.

Finally, if you have the budget to purchase one, you can use a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity around the plant.

Pruning the string of turtles

Pruning the plant will usually focus on controlling its growth, especially if you prefer it to remain a certain size.

If the plant has become quite bushy, you can remove some of the tops of the stems. Use a sterile pair of pruning shears to do this.

Once in a while, remove any dead or damaged foliage. Try not to over prune the plant, though, because that could affect its lushness and growth.

Fertilizer requirements

When fertilizing the string of turtles, use a liquid fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Feed the plant every two weeks during its active growing season.

Occasional fertilization can help the plant retain the colors and patterns on its leaves.

In the summer, reduce the feeding to once a month, and in winter refrain from fertilizing the plant entirely.

Do not fertilize the plant more necessary, because this can lead to soil toxicity and root burn.

Propagating the string of turtles

Propagation of this plant is done best during the spring. You can use either leaf or stem cuttings to do this.

When choosing which stems to use for propagation, pick out those that are healthy and do not look damaged or dry.

Using a sterile pair of scissors, cut about five inches of vine.

Prepare a new pot with well-draining potting mix and lay the coiled vine on the top of the soil.

Make sure no parts of the vine or any of the leaves get covered in soil, because this can affect the plant’s ability to absorb light.

Place the pot in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light and water it to keep the soil moist, but never soggy.

You can also let the vine root in a glass of water first. Make sure to replace the water when it gets murky or when it starts to smell. After a few weeks, roots will appear and you can transfer it to a pot where to grow in the soil.

Growth

The string of turtles is a slow-growing plant that remains quite small throughout its life. Its growth comes mostly from the vines lengthening.

The plant can only reach about a foot in height, and it can take up to five years to reach this height.

If you want the plant to grow larger, refrain from pruning it and let it grow out.

The plant’s small leaves have veins that come in different colors, but they will turn silvery-white as the plant gets older.

Conclusion

Yes, the string of turtles is a succulent that belongs to the Piperaceae family. It gets its name from its tiny leaves that resemble miniature turtle shells. It is native to Brazil where it grows in the rainforests. 

Like all succulents, it has fleshy leaves that can absorb and retain water for use in times of drought. This means that it can tolerate longer periods without water than the average houseplant.

This plant likes bright, indirect light, and water only when its soil is dry to the touch. It should have a well-draining pot and soil, room temperature, moderate to high humidity, fertilizer twice a week during its growing season, and minimal pruning.

The plant can be propagated using stem cuttings; this is best done in March using the healthiest stems on the parent plant for a higher success rate.

The string of turtles is a slow-growing, diminutive houseplant, perfect for smaller living spaces. It is also low-maintenance and therefore perfect for novice gardeners.

Image: istockphoto.com / lisboktphoto

Yes, hoyas, of which there are more than 300 species, are succulents. They belong to the Asclepiadacae family and are native to Australia and Asia.

Like all succulents, hoyas have thick, fleshy leaves that absorb and retain water for the plant to use in the event of drought, or when the soil in its pot has dried out completely.

These plants produce flowers that form clusters, called umbels.

In this article, we will discuss more about hoya plants and their cultural care, as well as how to propagate them. So, if you want to learn more about them before taking one home, just keep on reading.

What is a hoya?

The hoya is a low-maintenance, tropical flowering plant native to Australia and Asia. It is a slow-growing plant that can be kept indoors or planted outside during the spring and summer.

Other names for this plant are honey plant, porcelain flower, Indian rope plant, wax flower, or wax plant.

A hoya plant can grow up to 20 feet tall, and its flowers can be black, white, burgundy, pink, orange or yellow.

These plants are hardy to zones 8 to 11, which means they are not the hardiest and will need to be taken indoors as winter starts.

Is a hoya a succulent?

Yes, hoyas are succulents. They have thick, fleshy leaves that absorb and store water which helps keep the plant alive in times of drought. They therefore do not need watering as often as most houseplants, and can also tolerate warmer climates.

Hoya plant care

Light requirements

Hoyas like bright, indirect light. They do not do well under full sunlight because such intense light can cause sun damage, which results in yellow or brown leaves with crispy edges.

If you think your hoya plant is getting too much light, transfer it to a shadier spot as soon as possible. Also check the soil and, if it is very dry, water the plant thoroughly.

Conversely, if the hoya does not get as much light as it needs, it will become pale and droopy and its growth will be stunted. It may also become leggy, or etiolated.

Etiolation is when a plant’s stem becomes elongated as it tries to grow in the direction of the nearest light source. This is the plant’s desperate attempt to get light so that it can continue to perform photosynthesis. If the plant is unable to photosynthesize due to a lack of light, it cannot create chlorophyll and will thus become weak.

If you think the plant is not getting enough light, transfer it to a sunnier spot. The leggy stem cannot be fixed, but it does not do the plant any harm. If you do not like how it looks, you can cut it off using sterile scissors.

If you keep the plant indoors, place it next to a north- or east-facing window. If the only windows in your home let in very harsh light, you can still place the plant near them but you may need to use a sheer curtain to diffuse the light’s intensity.

If you live in a place where there is little to no natural light for a few months of the year, you might have to get a grow light to help the plant out.

Watering requirements

Hoya plants, like most succulents, have thick, fleshy leaves that retain water for use during times of drought.

As a result, these plants require less watering than most other houseplants.

This also explains why they are extremely susceptible to overwatering. You can overwater your hoya by giving it too much water each time you water it, watering it more frequently than necessary, using poorly-draining soil or pots, or not adjusting your watering habits to changes in the weather, season, or climate.

An overwatered hoya plant will have yellowing, droopy leaves that feel soft and mushy to the touch. This is because the excess water in the soil has nowhere to go, so the plant ends up absorbing it to the point where the cells in its tissue literally burst from the overload. This is also why an overwatered plant might feel slimy.

Overwatering can also result in root rot. Root rot occurs when a plant’s roots have been exposed to waterlogged soil for extended periods, so that they are never able to dry out and they effectively drown. The roots will start to rot and become vulnerable to opportunistic pathogens like fungi and bacteria. These pathogens will exacerbate the rot, causing it to spread more rapidly throughout the plant. The rot will quickly spread to the leaves, at which point it may be too late to save the plant.

If you believe your plant is overwatered, stop watering it immediately and relocate it to a sunnier location to allow the soil to dry out as fast as possible.

If root rot is suspected, you may need to remove the plant from its pot to confirm this. Remove as much of the old soil as possible, and do this carefully as the roots will be delicate. Inspect all of the roots for brown or black areas; these are decaying and must be removed. Remove the rotten roots with sterile scissors until only the healthy, white roots remain.

Place the plant on a dry surface for a few hours to allow the roots to air-dry.

Fill a new pot halfway with succulent potting mix, place the plant in the center of the pot and cover the roots with more soil.

Thoroughly water the soil until you see excess water dripping from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Even though hoya plants are more drought-tolerant than most plants, this does not mean you can skip watering them whenever you want to. An underwatered hoya plant will have wilted and drooping leaves, as well as bone-dry soil in the pot.

To restore an underwatered hoya, simply water it immediately. Soak all of the soil to ensure that all the roots have had access to water.

The best way to ensure that your plant receives just the right amount of water is to develop good watering habits. If the top two inches of soil feel dry to the touch, it is time to water your hoya. If the soil remains slightly moist, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Soil requirements

Like most succulents, hoya plants like soil that is well-draining, loose and airy. They do not do well in soil that is heavy and dense, because it retains too much moisture, and too much moisture in the soil increases the likelihood of overwatering and root rot.

The soil should be loose enough that even if you accidentally give the plant too much water, the water will simply drain out.

The pot that you use for your hoya should also be well-draining. It should have sufficient drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to escape, which also helps prevent overwatering and root rot.

Temperature and humidity

Hoyas are tropical plants, so they do best if you can replicate similar conditions in your home. Usually the temperature and humidity conditions inside your house will be fine for the plant, so you do not have to do much.

If winter is about to start, remember to bring the plant indoors, because a hoya will die if left in the cold for too long. After all, these plants are only hardy to zones 8 to 11.

If you live in a place with a particularly dry climate, you might have to take measures to provide some extra humidity. You could keep the plant in the most humid parts of the house, such as the bathroom or kitchen. You can also place a pebble tray filled with water under the plant’s pot, and as the water evaporates it will moisten the air around the plant.

Another option is to group the plant with other humidity-loving plants so that they can all create a microclimate around each other.

Or, if you have the means, you can purchase a humidifier and use that to automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

Fertilizer requirements

Hoyas are fine with being fertilized monthly, using a fertilizer that contains potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen.

Your plant should not be fertilized more often than this, because if you give it too much fertilizer, it can cause a buildup of mineral salts and lead to soil toxicity.

Soil toxicity can cause root burn, which can damage the plant significantly.

If you think you have over-fertilized your plant, you might need to flush the soil with water to get rid of the excess minerals.

Pruning the hoya

Hoyas are slow growers so they do not really need regular pruning.

You can remove dead or dying stems or leaves from the plant as you see fit, to preserve its overall aesthetic.

How to propagate hoya plants using stem cuttings

When propagating your hoya using this method, cut off the lowest leaf from the stem of the parent plant using a sterile pair of scissors.

Fill a pot with succulent soil and water the soil until it is slightly moist, but not soggy.

Place the cutting in the soil, cut end down. Make sure you do not overwater the plant while it starts to grow new roots.

After four weeks, the cutting will have grown roots and you can check their progress by gently pulling on the cutting. If there is resistance, it means that the roots have anchored well and you can now care for the plant as you would a regular, mature hoya.

Pests and diseases

Common pests on hoya plants are spider mites, mealybugs and aphids. These pests all damage the plant in the same way: by sucking the sap from its foliage.

You can get rid of these pests by knocking them off the plant with a strong stream of water from a garden hose.

You can also kill them by wiping the affected plant parts with a cotton ball soaked in neem oil, or you can spray rubbing alcohol on the affected areas. 

Make sure that the infested plant is kept away from your other plants while you treat it, so that the pests do not spread.

The most common diseases in hoya plants are caused by fungi. One of these diseases is botrytis blight, and you will know that your plant has it if you see gray patches on the plant. Botrytis blight will cause the plant to rot and, if left untreated for a long time, can even kill it.

You can get rid of botrytis blight by using a fungicide. You might also have to repot the plant in order to get rid of the contaminated soil.

Conclusion

Yes, hoya plants are succulents that belong to the Asclepiadacae family. Other names for them are honey plant, porcelain flower, Indian rope plant, wax flower or wax plant. They produce an assortment of beautifully-colored flowers that grow in clusters, or umbels.

Like all succulents, the hoya has fleshy leaves that can store water for use in the event of drought.

This is not the most low-maintenance of succulents, but it also does not need too much attention.

It likes bright, indirect light, and should only be watered when the top layers of its soil have dried out. Give it well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes, warm temperatures, moderate humidity and fertilizer once a month.

You do not need to prune the hoya unless you want to remove dead or dying foliage to preserve its aesthetic.

The hoya can be propagated using stem cuttings from the parent plant.

Image: istockphoto.com / Fobo

Yes, the Sansevieria is a succulent that belongs to the Agavaceae family. These plants have long, sword-shaped leaves that are thick and fleshy and can retain water for the plant to use in the event of drought. This means they are able to survive in warm and dry weather better than most houseplants.

There are some Sansevieria varieties that are popular houseplants, like the snake plant, that people lovingly refer to as the “unkillable plant” because of its ability to survive the most extreme conditions and neglect. These plants are perfect for novice gardeners looking for varieties that are easy to care for.

In this article, we will discuss more about Sansevieria plants and their proper cultural care.

So, if you are thinking about adding one of these to your collection and want to learn more, just keep reading.

What is Sansevieria?

Sansevieria is a plant group consisting of over 60 species. Most of them are native to Africa and are adept at surviving in the hot, dry climate of that continent. These plants are low-maintenance, tolerant of low light conditions, and do not need to be watered often.

In fact, they are more sensitive to overwatering than anything else. 

Is Sansevieria a succulent?

Yes, the Sansevieria is a succulent that belongs to the Agavaceae family. Succulents typically come from hot, dry climates and have thick, fleshy leaves that are capable of absorbing and storing water for use in the event of drought.

Because this plant was designed to tolerate drought and hot climates, it does not do very well in cold temperatures.

Sansevieria care

Light requirements

The kind of light that Sansevierias like best is bright and indirect. If these plants get too much light, especially direct light, their leaves can burn and the edges will turn yellow or brown.

If you think your plant is getting too much light, transfer it to another spot where it can get shade for a few hours each day, and water it if the soil looks very dry.

Sansevierias can tolerate low light conditions, but it is still best for them to get lots of light because it makes their leaves more vibrant.

If the plant does not get as much light as it needs, it will become pale and droopy because it can no longer produce the chlorophyll needed for its survival. 

If you suspect this is the case with your plant, you need to transfer it to a sunnier spot so that it can start photosynthesizing adequately again.

If you are keeping the plant indoors, keep it near a north- or east-facing window because these windows let in the right kind of light. If the only available window in your home lets in light that is too intense, you can still keep the plant near it, but you should place a sheer curtain over the window first to diffuse the intensity of the light.

If you live in a place where there is little to no natural light for months at a time, you can help the plant out by using a grow light.

Watering requirements

The Sansevieria is typically watered once a month, or every four weeks.

If in doubt about whether or not to water your plant, it is best to check whether the soil in the pot has dried out completely. This can be accomplished by feeling for dryness in the top two or three inches of soil, and then checking the soil at the bottom of the pot via the drainage holes.

If the soil appears and feels dry, thoroughly water it until you see excess water draining out of the holes at the bottom of the pot. 

If there is a saucer beneath the pot that collects the dripping water, empty it after each watering. If you leave the water in the saucer, this can result in symptoms of overwatering.

Because the Sansevieria is a succulent, it is more susceptible to overwatering than to underwatering, and the damage sustained from excessive water is far greater than the minimal damage caused by underwatering.

The leaves of an overwatered plant will turn yellow, then brown, and will become soft and mushy to the touch. The more water they absorb as a result of the excess water in the soil, the heavier they will become, causing them to droop from the added weight.

If you do not resolve an overwatering issue quickly enough, the plant can develop root rot. This is a condition caused by prolonged exposure of the roots to waterlogged soil, so that they are unable to completely dry out between waterings. The roots will eventually drown, and will then be vulnerable to attack by fungi and bacteria in the soil. These pathogens will exacerbate the rot and accelerate its spread throughout the plant, potentially resulting in the plant’s death.

If you believe your plant is overwatered, immediately stop watering it and allow the soil to dry out completely. Try to place the plant in an area that receives plenty of light so that the light and heat can help the soil dry faster.

To determine whether the plant has root rot, you must remove it from the pot and inspect the roots.

After removing it from the pot, thoroughly wash the roots to remove any remaining soil. Proceed with caution, as the roots will be fragile in this state.

Inspect all of the roots, and if any have turned brown or black they are rotten and must be removed. Cut away these rotten roots with a sterile knife or scissors until only healthy, white roots remain.

Place the plant on a dry surface and allow the roots to air-dry for several hours.

Fill a new pot halfway with fresh succulent potting mix, place the plant in the center of the pot and cover the roots with more soil.

Place the plant in a spot that receives bright, indirect light.

Avoid both underwatering and overwatering your plant by developing good watering habits and understanding how to adjust them according to changes in the weather, season, and climate.

If you are able to collect rainwater, this is the most cost-effective and ideal type of water to give your plant. If not, you can use distilled or filtered water to ensure that no minerals from tap water make their way into the plant’s soil. While the effects of minerals in tap water may not be immediately noticeable, they accumulate over time and can result in a salt buildup which may be detrimental to the plant.

If all you have is tap water, fill a large container with it and let it stand for two days to allow the fluoride and chlorine to dissipate, after which you can safely use the water on the plant.

Make sure that the water you give the plant is lukewarm, because if it is either too hot or too cold, it could shock the plant.

Soil requirements

Sansevierias like to grow in soil that is well-draining, loose and airy. They grow in sandy soil in their natural habitat, so it is best if you can mimic that.

You could use commercially available cactus or succulent potting mix, but you can also make your own if you want to. To do this, use regular potting soil and add components that will make the soil more well-draining, such as perlite, pumice or coarse sand.

Well-draining soil lets any excess water flow right through, rather than sitting in the soil.

The pot you use is also important in keeping the plant happy and healthy. It must have drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to escape, thereby decreasing the chances of overwatering and root rot.

Temperature requirements

Keep the temperature around the plant between 60 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

This is pretty much the temperature in most homes, so this should not be a challenge. If the plant is grown outdoors and you live in a place where the winters can get quite cold, you should bring it inside when the outdoor temperature drops below 50 degrees Fahrenheit for long periods.

Humidity requirements

Even though the plant can survive in pretty much any level of humidity, be it completely dry air or the most humid room of the house such as the bathroom, it is best to keep it in an area where the humidity is stable at around 40 to 50 percent.

Just make sure that the plant is not kept in constantly high humidity with poor air circulation, because this environment can encourage fungal growth that will damage the leaves.

Fertilizer requirements

You only need to fertilize the sansevieria once a month, during the growing season. Use a fertilizer designed for succulents and only use it at half-strength.

The fertilizer should be low in nitrogen, and you should take care not to give the plant too much because this can lead to soil toxicity from a buildup of excess minerals.

Do not fertilize the plant during the winter, because this is when it requires the least nutrients and minerals from the soil.

If you think you may have given your plant too much fertilizer, you can flush the excess out of the soil with a lot of water.

Sansevieria propagation

The easiest and most common way to propagate a sansevieria is using leaf cuttings from the parent plant. This is the method most widely used by home gardeners.

To start, you need to choose a leaf from the parent plant that is healthy and vibrant in color.

Using a sharp pair of sterile scissors, cut the leaf at a 45-degree angle, about one inch above the base of the plant.

Place the cutting on a dry surface and cut the leaf into equal sections, each about two to three inches long.

So that you do not become confused about which ends of the cuttings are the tops and which are the bottoms, you can make markings on them. It is important that you place the bottom end of the cutting into the soil when you plant it.

After sectioning the leaf, place the newly-cut sections in a warm, dry place and leave them for five to seven days so that they can dry out and callus over.

After this time, the cut ends should have calluses and there should be white nodules on the ends, from which the new roots will sprout.

Prepare a large, one-gallon plastic container and fill it with succulent potting mix.

Water the potting mix until it is all soaked and the excess water has drained from the holes at the bottom of the container.

Insert the leaf cuttings into the soil so that about an inch of each one is buried under the soil.

There should be enough space between the cuttings that they are not crowded.

Place the container near a window that lets in bright, indirect light and allows good air circulation.

Water the cuttings once a week, or whenever the top inch of soil has dried out. Do not overwater them, because the roots can be affected by root rot no matter how small and young they are.

After four weeks, check on the progress of the root growth by gently digging around the base of the cutting and looking for roots. You can also gently tug on each cutting and, if you feel resistance, that means the roots have anchored well. You can then transfer the new Sansevieria plants to their own pots and care for them as you would a regular Sansevieria.

Pests

Mealybugs and spider mites are two commonly-observed pests on Sansevieria plants. Both of these pests damage the plant by sucking the sap from its leaves.

These pests are small and can be difficult to spot, so it is tricky to catch an infestation in its early stages. The bigger the population becomes, the more noticeable they are and the more damage they will inflict on your plant.

You can use a strong stream of water from a garden hose to knock the pests from the plant. If you only see one or two pests, you can also pick them off with your hands.

You can also spray rubbing alcohol directly onto them to kill them, or soak a cotton ball with neem oil and use that to wipe the affected areas on the plant.

If certain leaves are heavily infested or damaged, you may just have to cut them off and dispose of them properly.

While you are treating the plant for pests, it is best to keep it isolated from your other plants so that the pests do not spread.

Repeat your chosen treatment method every three days until you are sure that all of the pests have been eradicated.

Conclusion

Yes, Sansevieria plants are succulents that belong to the Agaveceae family. They have large, fleshy, sword-shaped leaves that can absorb and store water for use in the event of drought. Like most succulents, they can tolerate different and extreme living conditions that most other houseplants cannot.

They are low-maintenance, very easy to propagate, and perfect for people who are just getting started with gardening and want a resilient plant.

Give them bright, indirect light and water them when the soil is dry to the touch. They prefer well-draining soil, warm temperatures, moderate humidity and fertilizer only during the growing season.

Image: istockphoto.com / ByronOrtizA

Yes, the string of pearls, or Curio rowleyanus, is a succulent. It belongs to the Asteraceae family and is native to Africa.

It is a popular vining succulent houseplant that gets its name from the pea-shaped leaves on its trailing stems.

This plant is easy to propagate using stem cuttings, which you will have to do fairly often if you want to keep growing it, because it does not have the longest lifespan for a plant.

In this article, we will discuss more about this beautiful plant and its proper cultural care. So, if you want to add one of these to your collection and are keen to learn more about them, just keep on reading.

What is a string of pearls?

The string of pearls is a flowering plant that is often grown in a hanging basket to allow its vines to cascade over the edge and toward the floor. It has a unique look thanks to its tiny, orb-shaped leaves.

In its native Africa, the plant typically grows as a ground cover in desert-like environments.

It can be planted any time of the year, but it is best to do so during the warmer months.

It produces white flowers  in the spring that smell a lot like cinnamon.

This plant is toxic to both humans and animals, so make sure to keep it out of reach of your children and pets.

Is a string of pearls a succulent?

Yes, a string of pearls is a succulent. It has leaves that are able to absorb and retain water for the plant to use in the event of a drought.

This plant is native to some of the most arid regions of Africa, which means it is adept at surviving in conditions with very little water.

It can also tolerate heat better than most houseplants, thanks to its native habitat.

This plant is a great choice for novice gardeners or plant collectors that are looking for a low-maintenance, easy-to-grow plant.

String of pearls care

Light requirements

The string of pearls likes to be under bright, indirect light. It can tolerate direct light, but not for more than four hours a day. If the plant is under direct light for too long, it can get sun damaged and the leaves will turn brown and crispy.

If you are growing this plant outdoors, keep it under the shade of a large tree, near the side of the house, or on your patio or porch.

If you think your plant is getting too much light, transfer it to a shadier spot immediately and, if the soil in the pot looks dry, water it thoroughly.

Do not deprive the plant of light, either. A plant that gets insufficient light will have pale leaves that may drop off. Its growth may also become stunted.

If you think your plant is not getting enough light, move it to a sunnier spot.

You can place an indoor string of pearls next to a north- or east-facing window. If the only window available in your home lets in too much light, you can still place your plant next to it, but you might have to place a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the light.

If you live in a place where natural sunlight is scarce, you can also use a grow light to help the plant out. Place it under a fluorescent light for 12 to 16 hours a day.

Watering requirements

Because the string of pearls is a succulent, it does not need to be watered as often as most regular houseplants. Its leaves can store water that the plant will use if the soil dries out.

The biggest mistake most people make when growing a string of pearls is overwatering it. Overwatering can come about from giving the plant too much water every time you water it, watering it more often than necessary, using soil or a pot that is poorly-draining, or not adjusting your watering habits to changes in the weather, season or climate.

An overwatered string of pearls will have yellowing, droopy leaves that feel soft and mushy to the touch. This is because the plant has absorbed excess water from the soil, to the point that its overloaded cells have burst.

A serious consequence of overwatering is root rot. This is a condition caused by prolonged exposure of the roots to soggy soil, so that they eventually drown and die. The dead roots will then become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens such as fungi and bacteria in the soil, which can make the rot spread even more aggressively to the rest of the plant. Soon enough, the entire plant will succumb and you may not be able to save it.

If you think your plant is overwatered, stop watering it immediately and place it in a sunny spot to help the soil dry out faster.

If you suspect root rot, you will need to remove the plant from its pot to confirm this. Wash off as much soil from the roots as you can, and be gentle because the roots are fragile and can be easily damaged.

Inspect all of the roots and look for sections that have turned brown or black. These roots are rotten and will have to be removed. Use a sterile knife or pair of scissors to cut off the rotten roots until only the healthy, white roots remain.

Lay the plant on a dry surface to let the roots air-dry for several hours. 

Fill a new pot almost to the top with well-draining succulent soil. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more soil.

Water the plant thoroughly before placing it back in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light.

Just because the string of pearls is a succulent that does not need to be watered often, that does not mean you can just neglect to water it any time you want.

An underwatered string of pearls will have flat, dry-looking leaves. If you notice this, and if the soil in the pot is bone dry, the plant might be underwatered and will need to be watered as soon as possible. Soak all of the soil with water until you can see excess water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

The best way to prevent both overwatering and underwatering is by developing good watering habits. To know whether the plant needs to be watered, touch the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the soil is dry, water the plant, but if it is still damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

Soil requirements

Any kind of succulent soil mix will work for the string of pearls. Sandy, well-draining succulent soil is ideal of course, but if you only have regular potting soil, you can still use it as long as you add components that will make it well-draining, such as coarse sand, perlite or pumice.

Remember that this plant is very sensitive to overwatering and root rot, so the right potting mix is important.

The pot that you use should also have sufficient drainage holes at the bottom so that any excess water can easily flow out, thus decreasing the chances of overwatering and root rot.

Temperature and humidity requirements

Because of its natural habitat, the string of pearls likes warmer temperatures. Keep it in temperatures above 70 degrees Fahrenheit from spring to fall. During the winter, keep the temperature between 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Do not let the plant stay outdoors in temperatures below 50 degrees, because it does not do well in cold temperatures.

The plant’s native regions in Africa are dry and arid, so this means it does not like humidity. Refrain from keeping it in humid rooms such as the kitchen or bathroom, as too much humidity around this plant can encourage the growth of unwanted fungi.

Fertilizer requirements

The string of pearls grows actively during the spring and summer, so this is when it should be fertilized. Fertilization is best done when the plant is actually using the nutrients and minerals that you put into the soil.

If you fertilize the plant in the winter when it is dormant, this can lead to a buildup of mineral salts in the soil and cause toxicity. This can damage the roots and can even kill the plant from root burn.

If you do feed your plant, give it a water-soluble fertilizer, made specifically for succulents, every two weeks during the spring and summer.

Pruning the string of pearls

Pruning your string of pearls is only necessary if you want to remove dead leaves or stems that are affecting its aesthetic. You can also remove stems that have lost most, if not all, of their leaves. If the vines on the plant are getting too long for your liking, you can cut them back and use those cuttings to propagate the plant.

Pruning the plant also helps keep it looking full and bushy.

Propagating a string of pearls

The easiest way to propagate a string of pearls is using stem cuttings.

This plant does not have a long lifespan, so if you want to continue growing it for as long as possible, you will have to propagate it constantly.

Propagation is best done during the spring, summer or fall. 

Select some stems from the parent plant and cut them off using sterile scissors.

Make sure each cutting is four to five inches long and includes at least one node. The node is where the new roots will sprout from.

Remove any leaves near the base of the cuttings and leave the cuttings out in a warm, dry room with good air circulation so that the cut ends form a callus.

Prepare new pots with succulent soil, make a hole in the center of each using a chopstick, and insert each cutting at least an inch deep into a hole.

There should be no leaves buried in the soil or even touching it. If this happens, those leaves will rot and this can affect the growth of the cutting.

Place the pots in a spot where they can get bright, indirect light, and water the cuttings when the top inch of soil becomes dry. Take care not to overwater them.

After a few weeks, check for root growth by gently pulling on the cutting. If there is resistance, that means the roots have established well and you can now care for the plant the same way you would a regular plant.

Pests

The most common pests observed on the string of pearls are ants, mealybugs, gnats, whiteflies, mites and aphids.

These pests will typically attack a string of pearls that is already quite unhealthy.

If the plant is overwatered, getting insufficient light or too much humidity, or is overcrowded, it could be weakened and vulnerable to infestations. You will therefore need to address these underlying issues as well as the infestation itself.

You can get rid of the pests by applying neem oil or insecticidal soap to the affected areas of the plant.

Make sure to keep the plant quarantined in a different room of the house while you treat it, so that the pests cannot spread to your healthy plants. Repeat any pest control method every three days until you are sure that there are no more pests remaining.

It is best to check your plant for signs of pests every time you water it so that you can catch any infestation in its early stages.

Conclusion

Yes, the string of pearls is a succulent that is native to the desert-like regions of Africa. It has distinct pea-shaped leaves that grow on a vine that can be up to 15 feet long.

The plant’s fleshy leaves can absorb and retain plenty of water for use in the event of a drought, or if the soil in the plant’s pot has dried out completely.

This plant is more tolerant of heat than most houseplants, and is resilient enough to be kept both indoors and outdoors. Just make sure that you bring it indoors when the frost starts.

It is low-maintenance and easy to grow, but it does have a short lifespan. If you want to keep having it around, you will have to learn how to propagate it, and the easiest way to do this is using stem cuttings.

Image: istockphoto.com / Tatiana Buzmakova

The answer is yes and no. Peperomia plants are succulents and succulent-like plants that belong to the Piperaceae family. However, most peperomias are succulent-like, rather than actual succulents. They are native to Central America, South America, and the Caribbean, and are hardy to zones 10 to 12, meaning they are not the most resilient when it comes to cold temperatures.

Peperomias are very popular houseplants that are low-maintenance and easy to grow and care for.

In this article, we will discuss what exactly makes peperomia succulent-like, as well as its proper cultural care. If you want to learn more about this extensive category of plants before taking one home for yourself, just keep reading.

What is peperomia?

Peperomias are tropical plants native to Central and South America, as well as the Caribbean.

They have fleshy leaves with vibrant colors that make them a great addition to your interior decor, and they produce brown, green, or white blooms. There are so many different species of peperomia, and they come in so many sizes, leaf shapes, and colors, that you may not even think that two plants side by side is both peperomias.

These plants are slow-growing, low-maintenance houseplants that can be planted at any time of the year.

Is peperomia a succulent?

Yes and no. Peperomia is a large group of plants that consists of over 1,000 species, most of which are considered succulent-like, rather than true succulents.

To be considered a succulent, a plant needs to possess certain characteristics. It needs to have thick, fleshy leaves that can retain and store water for use in times of drought or water scarcity. This makes them drought-tolerant or drought-resistant, which is necessary as they are native to some of the driest places on earth.

Succulent-like peperomias can retain water in their foliage to a certain extent and can survive in dry conditions longer than the typical plant, but they will not be able to tolerate these dry conditions for as long as true succulents can.

Examples of peperomias that are true succulents are Peperomia ferreyrae, Peperomia graveolens and Peperomia clusiifolia.

Peperomia plant care

Light requirements

Peperomia plants like light bright but indirect light. They need bright light in order to keep their bright colors; morning light or filtered light is usually sufficient. If you put this plant outdoors in direct sunlight for extended periods of time, this can cause sun damage to the foliage.

If you think your peperomia is getting too much light, you need to transfer it to a shadier spot as soon as possible. Water it if it looks like the leaves and soil have dried out from too much light.

If the plant does not get enough light, it will become pale, the leaves will drop off and the growth of the plant will be stunted. This is because without sufficient light the plant cannot perform photosynthesis, by which it produces chlorophyll that gives plants their green color. It may also become leggy with insufficient light.

Legginess, or etiolation, is when the plant is so desperate for light that it starts to grow elongated limbs in the direction of the nearest light source. Etiolation does not harm the plant, but it does affect its symmetry which you might not like aesthetically.

If you think that your peperomia is not getting the light it needs, you need to transfer it to a sunnier spot. If you live somewhere that does not get much natural sunlight for certain months of the year, you might have to use a grow light to help the plant out. It will need 12 to 14 hours under the grow light every day.

If you keep the plant indoors, place it near north or east-facing window because these windows let in light that is not too harsh.

If the only windows in your home provide harsh light, you may need to diffuse the light’s intensity by placing a sheer curtain over the window.

Watering requirements

Peperomia plants have thick, fleshy leaves just like most succulents, so they are able to retain and store lots of water in their foliage for use during dry spells. This means that they will not need to be watered as often as some other houseplants.

This is also why this plant is very sensitive to overwatering. Overwatering can come about if you give the plant too much water every time you water it, if you water it too frequently, if you use soil and pots that are poorly-draining, or if you do not adjust your watering habits to changes in the weather, season or climate.

An overwatered peperomia will have yellowing, droopy leaves that feel soft and mushy to the touch. This is because the plant continues to absorb excess water from the soil until eventually the cells in its tissue literally burst from too much water. This is also why an overwatered plant might feel slimy.

Another effect of overwatering is root rot. Root rot is a condition caused by prolonged exposure of the roots to waterlogged soil so that they cannot dry out to absorb oxygen, and eventually drown. The dead roots will become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens such as fungi and bacteria, which will make the rot spread more aggressively to the rest of the plant. Soon, the rot will reach the leaves, by which time it may be too late to save the plant.

If you think your plant is overwatered, stop watering it immediately and place it in a sunnier spot so that the soil dries out faster.

If you suspect root rot, you might need to remove the plant from its pot to check the roots. Wash off as much soil as you can from the roots, and be gentle because the roots will be fragile. Inspect the roots closely for sections that have turned brown or black. These are rotten and will have to be removed. Use a sterile pair of scissors to prune them away until only the healthy, white roots remain.

Place the plant on a dry surface to let the roots air-dry for a few hours, and prepare a new pot by filling it two-thirds of the way with succulent potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more soil.

Water the soil thoroughly until you can see the excess water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, and return the plant to its normal spot.

The opposite of overwatering is underwatering, and even though peperomias can survive drought better than most plants, that does not mean you can neglect to water them any time you want.

An underwatered peperomia will have wilted, droopy leaves and the soil in the pot will be bone dry.

To fix this, you just need to water the plant immediately. Make sure to soak all of the soil in the pot properly, so that all the roots have adequate access to water.

The best way to make sure your peperomia is never over-or underwatered is to develop good watering habits. You will know the plant needs to be watered if the top two inches of soil in the pot are dry to the touch. If the soil is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Soil requirements

Some peperomia species are epiphytic. This means they do not actually need potting mix in the traditional sense; in fact, some of them can survive growing on the bark of a tree. This is because their roots can absorb water from the atmosphere.

For these plants, you should use a soil blend that is acidic, loose, and chunky, like an orchid potting medium.

You can also use regular potting soil, but then make sure that you add components to make it well-draining, such as perlite, peat moss, vermiculite or pumice. 

Aside from the potting mix, the pot that you choose should also have sufficient drainage. If the holes at the bottom of the pot are not big enough, you may have to drill around them to make them bigger, or you can just add more holes. The holes will allow excess water to escape, thereby decreasing the chances of overwatering and root rot.

Temperature and humidity requirements

Because of the plant’s natural habitat, it does not do particularly well in cold temperatures. Some outdoor peperomia plants are only hardy to zone 10 climates. This means they should not be exposed to temperatures below 30 degrees Fahrenheit, because such temperatures can damage them or even kill them.

Remember that peperomias are tropical plants that like warm weather, so if you are growing your plant outdoors, be mindful about taking it inside the house once the frost sets in.

These plants also like a bit more humidity than most houseplants, so if you live in a dry place with low humidity, help the plant out by placing it in a humid room, such as the kitchen or the bathroom. 

You could also place the plant on a pebble tray filled with water so that as the water evaporates, it will moisten the air around the plant.

Another alternative is to group the plant with other humidity-loving plants so that they can all form a microclimate around each other.

And, if you have the means, you can always just buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

Fertilizer requirements

You do not really need to fertilize peperomias because they typically get all their required nutrients and minerals from their soil.

But, if you want to help the plant out, use a water-soluble, succulent fertilizer and only apply it at half-strength.

If you notice problems with your peperomia, do not immediately assume it is due to poor nutrition. Check for any other possible, and more likely causes such as overwatering or too much light before considering poor nutrition.

If you give the plant fertilizer that it does not need, the excess minerals will cause a buildup of salts in the potting medium which can lead to soil toxicity and can severely damage the plant’s roots.

Remember that, when it comes to fertilizer, less is more.

Pruning the peperomia

Peperomias are slow-growing plants that are on the smaller side, so they rarely need to be pruned. Often the only pruning they warrant is if they become leggy or if you just do not like how a certain stem is growing.

Controlling and cutting back unruly stems and leaves can also encourage branching and can give the plant a fuller look.

You can use your hands to pinch off leaves or stems, but it is better to use a sterile pair of pruning shears to make the cuts more seamless.

Propagating peperomia plants

Although these plants can be propagated year-round, it is best to do it during springtime when the plant is actively growing. Fortunately, you can prune and propagate simultaneously: Use the pruned stems to propagate the plant.

Prepare a sterile pair of pruning shears, a small pot, some orchid mix or succulent mix, and a plastic bag.

Choose a leaf on the parent plant and cut it off with about an inch of stem.

Fill the pot with soil and place the cutting in the soil, cut-end down. 

Moisten the soil before placing the plastic bag over the top of the pot to trap some humidity.

Place the pot in a spot where it can get lots of bright, indirect light and water it often enough to make sure that the soil never dries out completely.

After a few weeks, check for root growth by gently pulling on the cutting. If there is resistance, that means that the roots are well-established and you can transfer the new plant to a bigger pot and care for it as you would a regular plant.

Does a peperomia plant bloom?

Yes, peperomia plants bloom, but they do so rarely when kept as houseplants.

Their flowers are either green, white or brown, and they look like spikes. You may not even realize that they are flowers, at first.

If you do not like the look of the flowers, you can always cut them off at the base. But, if you like their aesthetic, you can leave them to wither and fall off on their own.

They usually bloom during the summer, but if the conditions in your home are close enough to summer conditions outdoors, your plant may even produce flowers year-round.

Pests

The most commonly observed pests on peperomia plants are whiteflies, spider mites and mealybugs. These pests cause damage to the plant by feeding on the sap from its foliage.

You can use insecticide to get rid of them, but if you do not want to use chemicals on your plant or around your home, you can also use insecticidal soap to kill the pests.

Alternatively, you can wipe down the affected areas with a cotton swab dipped in neem oil, or spray rubbing alcohol on the affected areas of the plant.

Just make sure that, while you are treating the plant, you keep it isolated from your other healthy plants so that the pests do not spread.

Conclusion

There are so many peperomia species that some of them are considered succulents while others are just succulent-like. The difference between the two is that succulent-like peperomias are simply not as drought-tolerant as true succulents are.

They are still able to store water in their fleshy leaves, but they do not do that well in very hot climates.

Peperomias are low-maintenance houseplants and are easy to propagate using stem cuttings.

To keep them happy, just give them bright, indirect light, water when the soil is dry, a well-draining potting mix, temperatures above 30 degrees Fahrenheit, and a little humidity.

Image: istockphoto.com / Ake Dynamic

Yes, the string of hearts, or Ceropegia woodii, is succulent. It is native to South Africa, Eswatini, and Zimbabwe, and is named for its heart-shaped leaves that grow from trailing stems. The leaves are fleshy and can hold a significant amount of water that the plant can use in the event of drought.

This plant is also called the rosary vine or the sweetheart vine. It is low-maintenance and very easy to grow, and makes a great indoor plant, especially when placed high in a hanging basket. The stems will spill over the edge of the basket and create a beautiful, cascading waterfall of leaves.

In this article, we will discuss more about this succulent and its proper cultural care. So, if you are planning to add one of these to your collection and wish to learn more, just keep reading.

What is the string of hearts?

The string of hearts is a trailing plant that has characteristically delicate, heart-shaped leaves growing along a succulent vine.

It can grow to 12 feet in length if its ideal living conditions are met. Its leaves are a dark green color with pink, cream, or silver variegation, and its stems are usually purple.

Is the string of hearts succulent?

Yes, a string of hearts is a trailing succulent native to South Africa, Eswatini (formerly Swaziland), and Zimbabwe.

It has fleshy leaves that can store water for the plant to use during times of drought. Like many succulents, it is low-maintenance and requires very little attention to thrive.

It makes a great indoor plant and its beautiful, trailing vines look particularly attractive cascading from a hanging basket.

String of hearts care

Light requirements

The string of hearts likes bright light. It can be direct light, but only for a few hours a day. If the light is indirect, it is fine even for an entire day. If you want the colors of the leaves to stand out, direct light is always better, but the key is to make sure you are able to control it.

The best spot for the plant is where it can get direct light for half of the day, then shade during the afternoon. 

You can actually tell when a string of hearts is not getting enough light because the spaces between the leaves on the vine will become wider. The smaller the space between the leaves, the happier your plant is with the light it is getting. 

If you think the plant is not getting enough light, move it to a brighter spot such as next to a window.

If your plant gets too much light, on the other hand, this can lead to sun damage and the leaves may have dried tips. If you think your plant is getting too much light, move it to a shadier spot as soon as possible. Unfortunately, the burnt leaves cannot be salvaged, so you can just trim those off if you would rather not wait for them to fall off on their own.

If you live in a place where there is scarce natural light for a few months of the year, you can support the plant’s light requirements by placing it under a grow light.

Water requirements

Like most succulents, the string of hearts does not need to be watered as often as other, regular houseplants. This is because it can store water in its leaves, stems, and underground rhizomes for use when water is scarce.

The plant’s roots need to be able to dry out between waterings in order to absorb oxygen, so it is important not to overwater it. This can happen if you give the plant too much water each time you water it, water it more often than necessary, use a poorly-draining pot or soil, or do not adjust your watering habits to changes in the weather or season.

An overwatered string of hearts will have yellowing leaves that feel soft and mushy to the touch. This is because the plant has absorbed too much water from the soil, which eventually causes its cells to burst.

Another serious consequence of overwatering is root rot. Root rot occurs when the roots are not able to dry out between waterings, so they essentially drown and die. The dead roots become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens in the soil, such as fungi and bacteria, and these pathogens make the rot spread even more aggressively to the rest of the plant. If the leaves have turned brown and become mushy, this usually means that the rot has taken over the plant and there is little chance of saving it.

If you think your plant is overwatered, stop watering it immediately and allow the soil to dry out completely before watering it again. You can also move it to a sunnier spot to help the soil dry out faster.

If you suspect root rot, you will need to remove the plant from the pot to check the roots. Wash off as much soil from the roots as you can, and be gentle because they will be fragile in this state. Inspect the roots closely and look for sections that have turned brown or black. These are rotten and will have to be removed. Use a sterile knife or pair of scissors to cut off the rotten roots until only the healthy, white roots remain.

Place the plant on a dry surface to let the roots air-dry for a few hours, and prepare a new pot by filling it with succulent soil mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more soil as needed.

Water the soil until it is sufficiently soaked and you can see excess water dripping from the bottom of the pot, and then return the plant to a spot where it can get bright, indirect light.

Conversely, if you underwater the plant, you can dry it out and compromise its ability to absorb nutrients and minerals from the soil. Just because it is succulent, this does not mean you can entirely neglect its watering needs whenever you want to.

If you think the plant is underwatered, water it immediately. Soak all of the soil in the pot until you see water flowing from the drainage holes. This will ensure that all of the roots have access to water.

Soil requirements

For the string of hearts, the best soil to use is a succulent soil mix. Planting it in regular potting soil will not work because it is too dense and will retain too much water, which increases the chances of overwatering and root rot.

Succulent soil mix is usually just regular potting soil mixed with draining components such as pumice, perlite, or coir.

Aside from the soil, it is also important for the pot to have drainage holes at the bottom. Even if the soil is well-draining, if the water that drains to the bottom of the pot has nowhere to go, it will still end up sitting around the plant’s roots.

Temperature requirements

Because the string of hearts is native to hotter climates, it is used to temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Fortunately, this is the typical average temperature in most American households, so you should not have an issue growing the plant in your home.

If you grow the plant outdoors and you live in a place with frost or cold winters, make sure that you take the plant indoors the moment the temperature drops to 60 degrees Fahrenheit or lower.

This plant does not do well in cold temperatures for extended periods of time, so you will need to protect it from the cold or risk losing it.

Humidity requirements

The ideal humidity for a string of hearts is between 40 and 50 percent. The humidity in most households should be around this range, so you should not need to do anything to help it out in this regard.

If you live in a particularly dry climate, however, you might need to help the plant by placing it in a humid part of the house, like the bathroom or the kitchen. You can also place it next to other plants that like humidity so they can create a microclimate around each other.

If you have the means, you can always buy a humidifier that will automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

Fertilizer requirements

The only time to fertilize the string of hearts is during the spring and summer because this is when the plant is actively growing. Use a liquid fertilizer, and only at half-strength.

If you do not want to use a commercially available fertilizer, you can use worm castings as an alternative.

Refrain from fertilizing the plant in the winter because it will be dormant and will not be able to use all the extra nutrients that you put in the soil. The excess fertilizer will just cause soil toxicity that can damage the plant’s roots.

If you think you may have over-fertilized your plant, you will need to flush the soil with water to get rid of the salt buildup.

How to propagate the string of hearts

The easiest and most common method of propagation is by using cuttings from the plant. You can propagate these either in water or in soil.

Water propagation

Take some cuttings from the parent plant using sterile pruning shears.

Place the cuttings in a glass of water, making sure no leaves are touching the water. Contact with water can cause the leaves to rot.

Change the water in the glass once a week or when it starts to smell or become cloudy. This ensures that there is always fresh oxygen in the water.

After several weeks, you should see new roots growing from the cutting, and once the roots are a few inches long, you can transfer the cutting to a pot of succulent soil mix.

You can then care for the plant the same way you would a regular string of hearts.

Soil propagation

Cut some stems from your parent plant using sterile pruning shears.

In a container, place some well-draining succulent soil mix. Poke holes in the soil using a chopstick and stick the cutting into the holes. Make sure that no leaves are buried, or even close to the soil. Contact with the soil can cause the leaves to rot, which will affect the progress of the cutting.

Keep the soil moist by watering it lightly when it starts to get dry, but take care not to overwater it.

After three to four weeks, the cutting will have grown roots. You can check this by pulling gently on the cutting, and if there is resistance it means the roots are well-established. You can then transfer the cuttings to individual pots and care for them the same way you would a regular string of hearts.

Pests

Aphids

Aphids are one of the common pests that could attack your string of hearts. These insects damage the plant by feeding on the sap of the plant tissue. 

Aphids are very small, so you will have a very hard time spotting just a few individuals. They reproduce rapidly, however, and infestations can grow exponentially large in no time.

Once you spot these pests on your plant, you need to address the problem as soon as possible.

You can remove aphids by knocking them off the plant with a strong stream of water from a garden hose, or try dusting the plant with flour if the infestation is severe. This technique works by constipating the aphids and killing them.

Make sure that your plant is taken to a different room far away from your other, healthy plants to keep the aphids from spreading.

Scale insects

Scale insects are pests that have hard shell coverings. These insects typically stay in one place and do not move.

While they live on your plant and feed on its sap, they will also secrete a sticky substance called honeydew. This not only attracts even more insects to the plant; it also causes a black mold to grow on it.

Mold is usually the telltale sign that your plant has scale insects, as well as the plant looking sick and wilted.

You can either use neem oil or simple soap and water to get rid of the scale insects. Apply them directly to the insects and the affected areas of the plant. If you can see black mold, apply water and baking soda mixture to it. Make sure you wash off anything you apply before placing the plant back under any light source because it might burn the plant.

Mealybugs

Another pest that attacks the string of hearts is the mealybug. These insects also leave behind a sticky residue, and they usually look like fuzz or cotton on the plant.

These insects also feed on the plant’s foliage and the damage is more apparent the bigger their population becomes.

You can get rid of mealybugs by using diluted soap on the affected areas. You can also spray rubbing alcohol directly on the affected areas to kill the pests. Repeat the process every three days until you are sure that all of the mealybugs are dead, and keep the infested plant away from your other plants. 

Conclusion

Yes, the string of hearts is a succulent native to South Africa, Eswatini and Zimbabwe. It is also called the rosary vine or the sweetheart vine.

This plant is popular for its beautiful, heart-shaped leaves that grow from a long vine that reaches up to 12 feet in length.

This plant is very low-maintenance and makes a great indoor plant, especially when its purple-stemmed vines and vibrant leaves cascade from a hanging pot.

The string of hearts likes bright, indirect light. Water it when the soil is dry to the touch, keep it at regular room temperature with moderate humidity, and fertilize it only when it is actively growing.

You can propagate this plant using stem cuttings, either in water or in soil.

Image: istockphoto.com / skymoon13

Yes, the jade plant, or Crassula ovata, is a succulent that belongs to the Crassulaceae family, also known as the stonecrop family. It has thick, fleshy leaves that can store water for use in the event of a drought.

It is a popular houseplant because it is very low-maintenance and makes an attractive addition to your indoor decor.

In this article, we will discuss more about the jade plant and its proper cultural care. So, if you are thinking about adding this plant to your collection and wish to learn more about it, just keep reading.

What is a jade plant?

The jade plant has become one of the most popular houseplants, thanks to its beautiful foliage and how easy it is to grow.

It is often referred to as the money plant or the lucky plant because it is thought to bring good luck and fortune to any home where it is kept.

This plant is native to South Africa and Mozambique, but as long as you provide it with living conditions as close as possible to its natural habitat, it will grow almost anywhere.

Is a jade plant a succulent?

Yes, the jade plant is a succulent that belongs to the Crassulaceae family. Like all succulents, it can tolerate long periods without water because its leaves are thick and fleshy and are able to store water for use during dry spells.

This plant can also stand warmer conditions than the typical houseplant.

It is perfect for novice gardeners or first-time plant enthusiasts because it is so easy to grow and care for.

Jade plant care

Light requirements

The best kind of light for the jade plant is bright, indirect light. If you are growing it outdoors, the perfect location would be under the shade of a large tree, next to the side of a house, or on a patio or porch.

If you are keeping it indoors, place it next to west- or south-facing window, because these windows let in the right intensity and amount of light for the plant.

If you deprive the plant of its required light, it will become pale and its growth will be stunted. Plants need sunlight in order to produce chlorophyll, which is the natural pigment that gives them their green color. Thus, a lack of light causes their leaves to turn pale.

Too much direct sunlight, on the other hand, could lead to sunburn and damaged leaves. The tips of the leaves will dry out and turn brown. If you do not address this in time, the plant can become severely dehydrated and may even die.

If you live in a place where there is little natural sunlight at certain times of the year, you might have to place the plant under a grow light to help it out. The grow light should be able to emit at least 2,000 lumens per square foot. Make sure the plant gets 12 hours under the grow light and no more because this can also lead to leaf damage if overdone. Keep the plant six inches away from the light for the best effect.

Watering requirements

Like most succulents, jade plants do not need to be watered very often because their leaves store plenty of water for use during dry spells.

Water the plant when the soil in the pot is dry; do not water it unnecessarily as this can lead to overwatering.

An overwatered jade plant will have yellowish, droopy leaves that are soft and mushy to the touch. This is because the plant will continue to absorb excess water from the soil until its cells become overloaded and literally burst. This can also make the leaves feel slimy.

Another consequence of overwatering is root rot. This is a condition caused by prolonged periods of overwatering so that the roots are never able to dry out and become starved of oxygen, which the plant needs to survive. The roots will drown in the waterlogged soil, and the dead roots will be susceptible to opportunistic pathogens like fungi and bacteria.

These pathogens will make the rot spread more aggressively to the rest of the plant, and by the time the rot has reached the leaves, it usually means that the plant is too far gone and cannot be saved.

If you think your jade plant is overwatered, stop watering it immediately and transfer it to a sunnier spot where the soil can dry out faster. Do not water it again until the top two inches of soil are dry.

If you suspect root rot, you will have to remove the plant from its pot to confirm this. Wash off as much soil from the roots as you can, and be gentle about it because the roots will be fragile and can easily break.

Inspect all of the roots and look for sections that have turned brown or black. These roots are rotten and will need to be removed. Use a sterile pair of scissors to do this, until only the healthy, white roots remain.

Lay the plant on a dry surface to let the roots air-dry for a few hours. 

Fill a new pot two-thirds of the way with a well-draining potting mix, place the plant in the middle and cover the roots with more soil. Water the soil until you see excess water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Then, place the plant in a spot where it can get lots of bright, indirect light.

The opposite problem is underwatering, in which case your jade plant’s leaves will dry out and become wilted. Even though this plant can survive drought, that does not mean you can just neglect to water it anytime you want to.

If you think your jade plant is underwatered, you need to water it immediately. Soak all of the soil in the pot so that all the roots get adequate water. Going forward, water the plant when the top layers of soil in the pot have dried out. Do not wait for all of the soil to be bone dry before watering it.

If you can collect rainwater, that is the best and most economical choice for your jade plant. If this is not feasible, try to use distilled or filtered water. The water should be lukewarm; if it is either too warm or too cool, it can shock the roots.

When watering your jade plant, do not get any water on the leaves because this can encourage the growth of fungi which can cause rot.

Soil requirements

The jade plant will not survive in regular potting soil; it is too dense and heavy and retains too much moisture. These characteristics increase the chances of overwatering and root rot.

The best soil for a jade plant is a loose, airy, well-draining succulent soil mix. This soil mix will allow the plant’s roots to dry between waterings, without which they cannot absorb oxygen.

Aside from the soil, the plant’s pot should also have drainage holes at the bottom so that any excess water can easily escape and not stagnate in the soil.

Temperature requirements

Jade plants like temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, with 50 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit at night.

This plant will not survive for extended periods in temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. If you live in a place with cold winters, make sure that you take the plant indoors before the frost sets in.

Humidity requirements

Like most succulents, jade plants do not like humidity. If the humidity around the plant is too high, the plant will retain too much moisture and this can encourage fungal growth.

Dry air is best for the jade plant. Its natural habitat has low humidity, so try to simulate this when growing it in your home. Aim for a humidity level of 35 to 50 percent.

Fertilizer requirements

Succulents do not really need to be fertilized because they typically get all their required nutrients and minerals from the soil. If you do want to fertilize the plant, use a water-soluble fertilizer designed for succulents.

Fertilize the plant only during its growing season, from April to October. If you accidentally over-fertilize it, you can use water to flush the mineral buildup out of the soil.

Jade plant propagation

Fortunately, jade plants are easy to propagate, so you can have multiple jade plants in a very short time.

Propagation is best done during the spring or summer when the plant is actively growing so that it can recover faster from the process.

You can use either leaf or stem cuttings to propagate the jade plant, but it is easier and more successful with stem cuttings.

Choose a stem from the parent plant that is two to four inches long, and use a sterile pair of pruning shears to cut it off. Make sure the cutting has at least one node and two leaves on it. The nodes are where the roots will grow from, so it is crucial to include them.

Place the stem cutting on a dry surface in a warm area in your home, and leave it to heal for a week. A callus will form on the cut end; this will help encourage rooting and will also lessen the chances of rot on the cutting.

Prepare a new pot by filling it with well-draining succulent soil. Moisten it with some water and allow the excess water to drain out.

Poke a hole in the soil and plant the stem cutting in the hole. Make sure the cutting is standing upright and that at least one node is below the soil.

Place the plant in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light.

After a few weeks, check for root growth by gently pulling on the cutting. If you can feel resistance, that means the roots are well-established and you can now care for the plant the same way you would a regular jade plant.

Conclusion

Yes, the jade plant is succulent. It belongs to the Crassulaceae family and is native to Mozambique and South Africa.

It is one of the most popular houseplants, partly because of its beautiful foliage and also because it is thought to bring good fortune.

The jade plant is low-maintenance and a great starter plant for newbie gardeners.

It only needs bright, indirect light, infrequent watering, temperatures between 50 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, low humidity, well-draining soil and pot, and minimal fertilization.

You can propagate your jade plant easily, using leaves or stem cuttings.

Image: istockphoto.com / afe207

Yes, Agave is succulent. It belongs to the Asparagaceae family of succulents, which also includes the asparagus plant and yuccas. There are over 250 species of agave plants and they are popular as sources of medicine, beverages, and even food.

Agaves are native to North, Central, and South America, and are hardy to zones 5 to 11.

They are low-maintenance and tolerate a range of extreme living conditions, which is why they are often planted in outdoor gardens.

They have large, long leaves with pointy tips, and they produce long flower stalks from which white, yellow, or green flowers bloom.

In this article, we will discuss more agave plants and their proper cultural care. So, if you want to learn more about this fascinating plant, just keep reading.

What is an agave plant?

Agaves are popular both as houseplants and in gardens. They have thick, leathery leaves that grow in a rosette formation that can range in width from six inches to 20 feet, depending on the variety.

The texture, color, and shape of the leaves will also vary depending on the species, and the edges of the leaves feature sharp spines, or teeth.

When the plant is mature, a flower stalk will grow from the middle of the rosette, and from that stalk, flowers will sprout. The flower stalk usually towers high over the plant itself, reaching heights of up to 30 feet.

The flowers are tubular in shape and can be green, yellow or white.

If you decide to keep this plant indoors, make sure to keep it away from your pets because it is toxic to both cats and dogs.

Is agave a succulent?

Yes, agave plants are succulents. They belong to the Asparagaceae family of succulents and are native to some of the driest regions in the Americas. Their thick, fleshy leaves can absorb and store water for the plant to use in the event of a drought.

These plants are some of the most resilient and drought-tolerant plants on earth, and they can survive some of the most extreme living conditions without so much as a scratch.

Agave plant care

Light requirements

Agaves do well in and even prefer full sunlight. As we mentioned, they are from some of the hottest, driest landscapes in the world, and naturally, they will grow the best if you can simulate their natural habitat.

Give the plant six hours of full sunlight every day to keep it happy. If the only space available gets a little shade, that will not be a problem. However, if your plant does not get enough light, it will become paler as it can no longer produce chlorophyll at the required rate.

If you keep the plant indoors, keep it next to whichever window lets in the most light.

Do not exceed six hours of full sunlight, especially during the summer when the sun is at its hottest. While these plants can tolerate extreme heat, they can still get sun damaged and the tips of their leaves will turn brown and crispy.

If you think your agave is getting too much light, move it to a spot where it gets a bit more shade during the day. If the plant is indoors, you can place a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the intensity of the light the plant is receiving.

Water requirements

When the plant is fully mature, it is so drought-tolerant that it almost seems impervious to drying out.

If you get a reasonable amount of rainfall where you live, you do not actually need to water an outdoor agave; what it gets from the rain will be sufficient.

Younger plants will need to be watered more often because they are still growing.

If the plant does not get the water it needs, it will start to show signs of underwatering such as drying and wilting leaves. If you think your agave is underwatered, you need to water it immediately. Soak all of the soil in the pot so that all the roots get their fill of water.

Another common mistake is to overwater your agave, which can be harder to remedy than underwatering. Overwatering can come about from giving the plant too much water every time you water it, watering it more often than you need to, using poorly draining soil or a pot without drainage holes, or not adjusting your watering habits according to changes in the weather, season or climate.

An overwatered agave will have yellowing, droopy leaves that feel soft and mushy to the touch. This is because they have absorbed too much excess water from the soil, which eventually causes the cells in the plant tissue to burst. This can also make the leaves feel slimy.

A serious consequence of overwatering is root rot. This is a condition caused by prolonged exposure of the roots to waterlogged soil until they eventually drown and die. The dead roots start to rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens like fungi and bacteria in the soil. These pathogens make the rot spread more aggressively to the rest of the plant, and by the time it has reached the leaves, it is often impossible to salvage the plant. This is why it is important to be able to spot the signs of overwatering and catch it in its early stages.

If you think your agave is overwatered, stop watering it immediately and transfer it to a sunnier spot so that the soil can dry out faster.

If you want to check for root rot, remove the entire plant from its pot and wash off as much soil from the roots as you can. Do this gently, because the roots will be fragile in their compromised state. Look for root sections that have turned brown or black; these are rotten and will have to be removed. Use a sterile knife or scissors to prune them away until only healthy, white roots remain.

Place the plant on a dry surface to let the roots air-dry, and fill a new pot two-thirds of the way with fresh potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more potting mix.

Water the plant until the soil is moist but not soggy, and place it in a spot where it can get lots of light. 

The best way to avoid both overwatering and underwatering is by practicing good watering habits. Know when the plant actually needs water, rather than simply following a schedule. There are many factors that can affect the rate at which the plant’s soil dries out and you need to take all of these into account. It is always a good idea to check the moisture in the pot by touching the soil with your fingers. If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still a little damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Soil requirements

Even though the soil preference of agaves is sandy and rocky, they can tolerate many different kinds of soil as long as it is well-draining, loose, and airy.

If the soil is dense and compact, it can retain too much water and lead to overwatering and root rot.

When it comes to pH, agaves prefer their soil slightly acidic to neutral.
The pot you use should also have sufficient drainage holes so that any excess water can escape and not be retained by the soil. This reduces the chances of both overwatering and root rot.

The pot should also be the right size for the plant and not too big. A big pot means more potting mix is needed to fill it; more potting mix means more water will be retained, and more water increases the chances of the soil becoming waterlogged.

Temperature and humidity requirements

Agaves are hardy enough to grow in zones 8 to 9. There are even some outliers that can grow in hardiness zone 5, but those are few and far between.

They will always prefer climates that are warmer rather than colder, so if you live in a place that has cold winters, it is best to bring the plant indoors just before the frost starts, to a place where the temperature will be more stable.

When it comes to humidity, most agave species prefer lower humidity because they are native to dry regions. If the plant is subjected to high humidity for prolonged periods, this can lead to crown rot. Moisture and high humidity also promote the growth of unwanted fungi.

Do not keep the plant in the more humid rooms of your house, such as the bathroom or the kitchen. Also make sure that wherever the plant is placed, there is good air circulation so that any moisture on the foliage can easily dry out.

Fertilizer requirements

Agaves do not really need to be fertilized; they typically get their required minerals and nutrients from the soil around them.

However, if you want to help the plant reach its full potential and encourage flowering, you can fertilize it, but remember that many agave species actually die after flowering.

If you do give the plant fertilizer, do so only during the growing season, because this is when the plant will actually use up the extra nutrients and minerals you are giving it.

Do not feed the plant in the winter when it may be dormant. The unused fertilizer in the soil can cause a salt buildup, leading to soil toxicity that can harm the plant’s roots.

How to propagate agave plants

Fully-grown agave plants produce baby plants, or pups, at their base, and you can actually use these pups to propagate the plant. This is one of the easiest and cheapest ways to get new plants, while also helping the parent plant by keeping it from becoming overcrowded around the base.

The pups can be taken from the parent plant at any time, but it is generally best to wait until they are a few inches in diameter before using them for propagation.

Remove the pups from the parent plant by loosening the soil around them and identifying the root that connects the pup to the parent plant. Use a sterile knife or scissors to cut the connecting root, and make sure you do not cut any roots that you do not need to.

Pull the pup up gently from the soil, ensuring that it has all of its roots.

Place your collected pups on a dry surface that is sufficiently shaded and has good ventilation. This will help them form a callus at the spot where they were separated from the parent plant.

Prepare small pots or containers by filling them with well-draining succulent potting mix. Plant the pups in the pots and moisten the soil with some water, but do not overwater it. Place the pots in a spot where the pups can get lots of bright, indirect sunlight.

Water the pups only when the top inch of soil has dried out. After a few weeks, the plants should have well-established roots and you can then transfer them to bigger pots and start caring for them as you would a regular agave plant.

Pests

Agaves are typically quite resistant to pests, but there are certain insects that are still able to deal some damage to these plants.

One such pest is the snout weevil, which can actually make its way into the center of the plant and lay its eggs inside, basically causing the plant to collapse from the inside out.

Because the insect knows to hide in the center of the plant where you will have a difficult time spotting it, you will not be aware of its presence until it is too late to save the plant.

The best thing you can do at this point is to remove the plant and dispose of it properly so that the pests do not spread to your other, healthy plants.

Agave – common problems

Yellowing leaves

One of the most common problems observed in agaves is the leaves turning yellow. This can be due to several causes, but the most common ones are too much water and not enough sunlight.

To keep the leaves from turning yellow, refrain from overwatering the plant and make sure that you are not keeping it somewhere that does not get enough bright light.

Drooping leaves

If you notice the leaves drooping on your agave, this might be due to a snout weevil infestation.

Another cause of drooping leaves is root rot. Too much water in the soil around the roots can affect its uptake of nutrients and minerals, so the leaves become droopy.

To avoid drooping leaves, refrain from overwatering the plant and be watchful for possible snout weevil infestations.

Conclusion

Yes, the agave is succulent; it belongs to the same succulent family as the asparagus plant and the yucca. It has thick, fleshy leaves that can absorb and store water for use in the event of a drought.

Agaves are some of the most low-maintenance houseplants available and are also very easy to propagate.

Most agave species like full sunlight, water when the top two inches of their soil are dry to the touch, slightly acidic to neutral soil, warm temperatures, low humidity, and minimal fertilization.

Image: istockphoto.com / hanohiki

Yes, a kalanchoe is succulent. It has sturdy stems and fleshy leaves that are able to absorb and store water for use in the event of a drought.

Kalanchoes are native to Madagascar and tropical parts of Africa and produce white, yellow, purple, pink, or red bell-shaped flowers. Due to their attractive foliage and flowers, they have gained popularity as houseplants in the United States. They are also low-maintenance and very easy to grow, which makes them the ideal choice for novice succulent collectors.

In this article, we will learn more about kalanchoe and its proper cultural care. So, if you plan on adding one to your collection and you wish to learn more, just keep reading.

Is a Kalanchoe a succulent?

Yes, a kalanchoe is succulent because its fleshy leaves and stems can absorb and store water for use during dry spells. It is a slow-growing succulent that can take up to five years to reach full maturity, and its different varieties produce flowers in various shades, such as white, yellow, purple, pink or red.

Kalanchoe is actually a genus of succulents with over 100 different species. Not all of them are commonly grown as houseplants, though. Many of the species come from the island of Madagascar, and they have very long blooming periods compared with other succulents.

One of the reasons they are so popular is because of their interesting-looking leaves and vibrant flowers.

Some Kalanchoe species are also used for medicinal purposes in certain cultures.

Most of the common kalanchoe varieties are easy to procure from your local nursery or gardening stores.

It bears mentioning that this plant is toxic when ingested, so if you want to keep it indoors, make sure it is out of reach of your pets.

Kalanchoe plant care

Light requirements

The kalanchoe likes bright sunlight for six hours a day. It can also thrive in indirect light, but direct sunlight really brings out the vibrant colors on the edges of its leaves. That said, during the hottest months of the year, it is best to give the plant a few hours of shade each day so that it does not get sun damage.

If the plant does not get the light that it needs every day, its leaves will start to become pale. This is due to an inability to produce chlorophyll, which is the pigment that gives plants its green color and for which sunlight is necessary.

In the absence of sufficient light, the plant may also grow unnaturally long stems in an effort to reach the closest source of light. This is known as etiolation and does not really harm the plant, although the underlying lack of light will harm it in the long run.

If you think your kalanchoe is not getting as much light as it needs, transfers it to a sunnier spot as soon as you can.

If you are keeping the plant indoors and the only window available lets in harsh light, you can still place the plant next to it, but put a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the intensity of the light.

If your home does not get enough natural sunlight during the winter, you can help the plant out by placing it under a grow light.

Watering requirements

Kalanchoes, like all succulents, need less water than other houseplants.

When watering your plant, drench the soil until you see excess water flowing out of the holes at the bottom of the pot. Then, do not water it again until the top two inches of soil in the pot are dry to the touch.

If your kalanchoe is underwatered, its leaves will start to wilt and the stems will not be as sturdy as normal. You need to remember that, when a plant does not get enough water, it not only loses moisture; it also loses access to the nutrients and minerals in the soil. Plants use water as a vessel to transport essential substances from the soil into their roots, and without these nutrients, they become weak.

If you think your kalanchoe is not getting enough water, all you need to do is water it generously until all of the soil in the pot is soaked.

Overwatering your kalanchoe, on the other hand, is more damaging than underwatering because it can lead to root rot.

An overwatered plant’s roots are constantly exposed to soggy soil and are thus unable to dry out between waterings. The leaves and stems will keep absorbing water until their cells burst, which manifests as yellow, droopy leaves. The plant can also feel wet and slimy.

If you do not resolve to overwater in its early stages, it can also cause root rot.

Root rot is a more serious condition, caused by constant exposure of the roots to waterlogged soil until they drown and die. The dead roots will start to rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens such as fungi and bacteria in the soil. These pathogens will make the rot more aggressive, helping it spread faster to the rest of the plant.

If you are not able to catch the root rot in time, it will reach the leaves and crown and the plant might even die.

If you suspect your kalanchoe is overwatered, stop watering it immediately and place it where it can get plenty of light to help the soil dry out faster.

Let the soil dry out completely before watering it again.

If you want to check for root rot, you need to remove the plant from its pot and wash off as much soil as you can from the roots. Do this gently, because the roots will be quite fragile in their current state.

Inspect the roots for sections that have turned brown or black; those are rotten and will have to be removed. Use a sterile knife or scissors to cut off the rotten roots until only healthy, white roots remain.

Lay the plant on dry paper towels to allow the roots to air-dry for several hours, and prepare a new pot by filling it two-thirds of the way with fresh potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more soil.

Water the soil until it is moist and place the pot where the plant can get lots of bright, indirect light.

The best way to avoid both underwatering and overwatering is to develop good watering habits. This includes adjusting your watering schedule to changes in the weather, season, and climate.

Soil requirements

In its natural habitat in Madagascar, the plant grows in sandy soil near rocks and boulders.

This means that the best kind of potting mix for kalanchoes is well-draining and fertile. It should not be dense or compact.

Because the plant does poorly in heavy soil, regular potting soil is not ideal for it. There are plenty of commercially available succulent mixes that contain organic components that the plant will like.

If you want to make your own potting mix for the kalanchoe, you can do this by combining two parts of sand, one part of peat moss, one part of regular potting soil, and one part compost.

The soil should have a neutral pH, although the plant will likely do just fine in mildly alkaline or mildly acidic soil.

Make sure that the pot you use for this plant has drainage holes at the bottom so that any excess water in the soil will simply flow out, thus lessening the chances of overwatering and root rot.

Temperature requirements

Because the plant is native to Madagascar, it prefers warmer climates, but can also grow just fine in temperate climates. As long as you bring your outdoor kalanchoe indoors when the winter frost comes, it should be alright. Kalanchoes are only hardy to zones 9 to 11.

Keep the temperature around your plant at around 60 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature goes beyond this range for extended periods of time, you will need to move the plant to another room where the temperature is more stable.

The plant can die in cold temperatures, while very hot conditions can stunt its growth.

Humidity requirements

The kalanchoe is not that picky when it comes to humidity, so it should have no problem with the humidity levels in your home.

These plants grow in the dry, rocky, coastal areas of Madagascar where the humidity level can change in the blink of an eye, so they are more than capable of adjusting quickly to such changes.

As long as the plant has good air circulation around it to prevent fungal growth, it will thrive. Remember to check the leaves and stems occasionally for powdery mildew growth, which can be caused by excess humidity or poor air circulation.

Fertilizer requirements

Kalanchoes, and succulents in general, do not really need to be fertilized because they are not heavy feeders. If you are already using a potting mix that contains a substantial amount of organic matter, you will not need to fertilize the plant; it can get all the nutrients and minerals that it needs from the soil.

If you still want to fertilize the plant to help it reach its full potential, you can give it a balanced fertilizer once a month during its growing season. It is important only to fertilize it during the growing season because this is the only time it will actively use up nutrients and minerals from the soil.

If you fertilize the plant outside of the growing season, it can cause soil toxicity. The unused minerals in the soil will accumulate and cause a salt buildup, which can damage the plant’s roots.

Kalanchoe growth

Some kalanchoe species can reach up to four feet high if planted directly in the ground in an outdoor garden. Even those that are grown in pots can reach several feet in height because they have quite sturdy stems. 

The leaves of a kalanchoe are scallop-shaped with red edges that become more prominent when the plant gets lots of sunlight.

When the plant gets the appropriate amount of light every day, its leaves are a lighter green color and develop bulbils around the edges. Bulbils are actually baby plants that drop off the leaf and grow into new kalanchoes, which is one of the ways the plant can reproduce itself asexually.

If you simply allow your kalanchoe to drop its bulbils around itself, you will have a large area of your garden covered in kalanchoe plants in no time.

Pruning a kalanchoe

Kalanchoes do not need pruning because they tend to grow straight and upright, rarely spreading to the sides.

If you do want to tidy the plant up a bit, you can remove dead or damaged leaves. You can also remove spent flowers to encourage new growth. Make sure you use clean scissors or pruning shears so that there is no exchange of pathogens from one part of the plant to another.

If the plant has been in a low light situation and has grown an elongated stem, you can cut it off if you do not like the look of it, and use it to propagate the plant.

Kalanchoe propagation

You can use either leaf or stem cuttings to propagate the kalanchoe. When using a leaf, you just need to remove it from the parent plant without tearing or breaking it.

Place the leaf on a bed of moist potting mix in a well-draining container, and put it in a spot where it can get bright light. After a few weeks, you will see bulbils growing new roots, and each bulbil can grow into a new plant.

The method is pretty much the same when using stem cuttings. This may not be quite as easy as using leaves, but if you want the new plant to be larger in a shorter space of time, then stem cutting is the way to go.

Even if you do not actively propagate the plant, letting the bulbils drop off will propagate it anyway, so all you need to do is wait. Make sure not to cover any of the baby plants with soil, because this can cause them to rot.

How to get a kalanchoe to bloom

If you are able to provide the kalanchoe with its ideal living conditions, it will have no problem blooming the entire year, potentially.

The most important factor for the plant to bloom is to make sure that it gets the light it needs. This is around six to eight hours of bright light every day.

In the fall and winter months, the plant needs up to 14 hours of total darkness to trigger blooming, and this should continue for six weeks. When we say total darkness, we mean total darkness. Even the glow from a distant lamp or a streetlight across the street can break this cycle and affect the plant’s blooming.

It can be difficult to achieve total darkness, so you can also just place a blanket over the plant to simulate darkness.

If there are spent blooms on the plant, you can remove them or deadhead the flowers to prompt continual flowering.

Fertilizer that is high in phosphorus can also help with bud production.

Common kalanchoe problems

Pests

The most common pests on kalanchoes are spider mites and aphids. These insects damage the plant when they feed on the sap from its foliage.

Remove the pests by knocking them off the plant with a stream of water from a garden hose. You can also apply to rub alcohol or neem oil directly on the affected areas to kill the pests.

Make sure that the infested plant is away from your other healthy plants, to avoid any spread of the pests. Repeat your chosen treatment every three days until you are sure that all of the pests have been eradicated.

Even when there are no more pests to be found, keep the plant in quarantine for a couple more weeks to be safe.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is one of the most common problems on kalanchoes. If the plant is kept in a humid environment with poor air circulation, it is not uncommon to see this substance growing on the plant. It will look like white patches on the stems and the bottoms of the leaves.

To remove the mildew, spray some neem oil on the affected areas of the plant every three days until all of it has been cleared.

Conclusion

Yes, the kalanchoe is a succulent that is native to Madagascar and the tropical regions of Africa.

This succulent is a houseplant popular for its interesting-looking leaves, bell-shaped flowers that come in a variety of colors, and its overall low-maintenance requirements.

The plant likes bright, indirect light; well-draining, sandy soil; moderate humidity; temperatures not below those of hardiness zone 9 to 11; and fertilizer only during the growing season.

This is a very forgiving, resilient plant, and a great choice for newbie succulent collectors because of its minimal needs.

Image: istockphoto.com / Ivica Gulija

Yes, the Christmas cactus is succulent. Despite the plant’s name, however, it is not a desert plant and is not as drought-tolerant as other cacti.

Like most succulents, this plant’s leaves are thick and fleshy and can store water for use in the event of a drought. It is also a low-maintenance plant that does not need very much care and attention to thrive.

The most defining characteristic of this plant is its blooming time, which coincides with the holidays. This makes it a popular gift for that time of year.

In this article, we will discuss more about the Christmas cactus and its proper cultural care. So, if you are planning on adding this succulent to your collection and want to learn more about it, just keep reading.

What is a Christmas cactus?

The Christmas cactus, or Schlumbergera x buckleyi, is a festive plant that blooms from late November to early December.

It is native to the coastal mountains of Brazil, as well as Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro.

Because it is not a desert plant like most cacti, the Christmas cactus actually prefers more humid and moist conditions. This is because the weather in its natural habitat includes plenty of rain for many months of the year.

The Christmas cactus can even grow on mossy trees and rocks.

Is a Christmas cactus a succulent?

Yes, the Christmas cactus is succulent. It belongs to the Schlumbergera genus, which falls under the Cactaceae family.

It is native to Brazil and has thick, fleshy leaves that are able to store water for the plant to use when the soil it is planted in has lost all moisture. This means that the plant is capable of tolerating drought better than most plants.

Christmas cactus care

Light requirements

Even though this plant is called a cactus, when it comes to its light requirements, it actually does not like too much bright, direct sunlight.

It can be very sensitive to too much light and you may see symptoms of sun damage like the browning of its leaf tips or the stems turning red.

If the plant is not getting enough light, on the other hand, it will affect its ability to flower.

You need to give your Christmas cactus just the right amount of bright, indirect light.

If you are keeping the plant indoors, it is best to keep it next to north- or east-facing window, because these are the windows that let in a gentler light.

If the only windows available in your house are letting in too much harsh light, you can still place your plant next to them but you may need to place a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the light.

If you do not get enough natural light where you live, you can also support the plant with a grow light.

The Christmas cactus also has some very specific light requirements for when you want to increase its likelihood of blooming.

For this plant to start producing buds, it needs to get at least 12 hours of darkness every day, with a temperature between 55 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

If the temperature goes over 70 degrees, the plant should get 16 hours of darkness a day.

When we say darkness, we mean absolute darkness; even the light from a lamp or a streetlight across the street can ruin this cycle.

If it is impossible to find a spot that is 100% dark, you can simply cover the plant up to keep it in the dark.

Watering requirements

Compared with desert cacti, the Christmas cactus needs more hydration, more often.

It also needs water more often during the warmer months of spring and summer, because this is the plant’s growing season. In these seasons, you will need to water it every two or three days on average.

The best way to water your cactus is to wait until the soil in the pot has almost completely dried out. Do not be too enthusiastic about your watering, because you do not want to overwater it.

In order to check the moisture levels, stick your finger into the top two inches of soil. If the soil is dry to the touch, you can water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Unlike other succulents that do not like getting their leaves wet, the Christmas cactus likes the occasional misting. This will also help with its ability to flower.

During the colder seasons, you will need to water the plant lease often and with less water each time, because it is not growing actively and the soil will dry out more slowly in the cooler weather. 

When the flowers are starting to open, it is best to start increasing the volume of water again.

Underwatering is a common mistake with Christmas cacti. An underwatered Christmas cactus will have browning, wilted leaves because of the loss of moisture. Plants use water as a vessel to transport nutrients and minerals from the soil into the roots, so if there is no water in the soil, the plant will suffer from nutrient deficiency as well as dehydration.

If you think your Christmas cactus is underwatered, all you need to do is to water it thoroughly. Make sure that all of the soil in the pot is soaked and that you can see excess water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Another mistake is overwatering, and this is more serious than underwatering because it can kill the plant faster.

When the plant is overwatered, the leaves will turn yellow and start to droop. They will also feel soft and mushy to the touch because the excess water absorbed by the plant is essentially overloading its cells.

If the overwatering problem is not addressed immediately, it can lead to root rot. This is a condition caused by prolonged exposure of the roots to waterlogged soil so that they can never dry out between waterings.

Plants need their roots to dry out so that they can absorb oxygen. If they cannot absorb oxygen due to perpetually soggy soil, the roots will drown and start to rot. The rotting roots are then susceptible to opportunistic pathogens like fungi and bacteria, which will make the rot spread more aggressively from the roots to the rest of the plant. Once the rot has reached the stems and leaves, it might be too late to save the plant and you will be better off saving the few remaining healthy stems and leaves for propagation.

If you think your Christmas cactus is overwatered, you need to stop watering it immediately and move it to a spot where it can get lots of light so that the soil dries out faster.

If you suspect root rot, you will need to remove the plant from its pot and wash off as much soil as you can from the roots. Be gentle doing this because the roots are quite fragile in this state. Inspect the roots thoroughly for sections that have turned brown or black; these are rotten and will need to be removed. Use a sterile knife or scissors to cut off the rotten roots until only healthy, white roots remain.

Lay the plant on a dry surface to let the roots air-dry for several hours.

Prepare a new pot, ensuring that it has drainage holes, and fill it with succulent potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots well with more soil.

Then, return the plant back to a spot where it can get bright, indirect light.

Soil requirements

The Christmas cactus is able to grow on mossy tree trunks and rocks just as well as it can in potting mix. This is because the plant is epiphytic, meaning its roots can also live in the open air and can absorb moisture directly from the atmosphere.

This is also why the plant prefers high humidity, which helps it effectively absorb moisture from its surroundings. If you live in a place that is not that humid, you may need to compensate by watering the soil a bit more often.

However, although the plant likes moist soil, it should never be waterlogged because of the many negative effects of overwatering.

There are commercially available succulent soil mixes and you can make this even more well-draining by adding perlite or coarse sand to them. You can also make your own potting mix at home by combining regular potting soil, perlite, compost, and milled peat.

The pot that you use is also important in keeping the plant happy and healthy. Make sure it has drainage holes at the bottom to reduce the chances of overwatering and root rot.

Temperature requirements

The Christmas cactus is not as finicky about temperature as it is about humidity.

Although it is called a cactus, it does not really need hot temperatures to flourish.

Try to keep the plant between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, and between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit at night.

Humidity requirements

The Christmas cactus is native to very humid regions, so it should come as no surprise that it appreciates humid conditions.

The best way to keep the plant happy is to replicate its native humidity in the room where it is kept. It is important because, as we mentioned, the plant is epiphytic and can absorb moisture from the air around it.

Try to keep the humidity around the plant at around 50 to 60 percent. If the air is quite dry, you can also mist the plant every once in a while.

Another option is to use a water pebble tray. Place this below the plant’s pot and as the water evaporates, it will moisten the soil in the pot and the plant’s leaves. Just do not forget to refill the water in the pebble tray when it becomes empty.

You can also place the plant near other humidity-loving plants so that they can create a microclimate around each other, or keep it in one of the more humid rooms of your house, such as the bathroom or kitchen.

If you have the means, you can also buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity levels in the room.

Fertilizer requirements

Like most houseplants, the Christmas cactus needs to be fertilized because it cannot survive on the nutrients and minerals in the soil alone.

The plant will become weak and can literally break apart if it does not get the elements it needs to survive and thrive.

Use a water-soluble fertilizer at half-strength to help the plant bloom. Fertilizers that contain equal amounts of potassium, phosphorus, and nitrogen are best.

Fertilize the plant every three weeks from April to September. April is when the plant’s leaf growth starts.

Stop fertilizing at the end of September, because fertilizer can affect the growth of the flower buds. The buds will fall off and the plant might not have any flowers come Christmas time.

This is caused by a buildup of salts in the soil from fertilization after the plant has stopped actively growing for the year.

Christmas cactus growth

There are many factors that can affect the size that your mature Christmas cactus will reach. Typically, the plant will not grow really tall, but it does tend to spread horizontally.

It grows hanging branches from its sides that can reach over three feet long.

A lack of size is not indicative of poor health, provided you are caring for the plant properly.

Propagating the Christmas cactus

The easiest and most successful way to propagate the Christmas cactus is using cuttings.

First, you need to take some cuttings from the parent plant. Choose some y-shaped branch tips and cut below them using sterile scissors or pruning shears. 

Lay the cuttings on a dry surface and allow them to dry out for three days in a cool room. This stage is important so that a callus can form on the cut end of the cutting.

Prepare new pots with succulent potting mix. Make sure they have drainage holes at the bottom so that the soil can drain properly.

When the cuttings have been callused over, place each one in the soil with a quarter-inch of the cutting buried.

Place the pots where the cuttings can get lots of bright, indirect light, and water the cuttings only enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy.

After two weeks, the tips of the leaves will start growing and will turn red, indicating that roots have begun to grow.

You can check the root growth by gently tugging on the cutting; if you can feel resistance, it means that the roots have anchored nicely into the soil.

You can then care for the new plants as you would a regular Christmas cactus.

Conclusion

Yes, the Christmas cactus is succulent. It is native to Brazil and is one of the most festive houseplants you could own. Its fleshy leaves can absorb and store water, which the plant can use in the event of a drought.

Even though this plant is called a cactus, it does not actually do well in hot or dry conditions. It likes bright, indirect light; moist, well-draining soil; fertilizer from April to September; humid conditions and regular room temperature.

You can propagate your Christmas cactus using stem cuttings. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Ulianna

Yes, the ponytail palm is succulent. Despite its name, it is not a palm tree. It actually belongs to the Asparagaceae family of succulents, along with agaves, asparagus, and yucca plants.

It is called a palm because it has a thick central trunk and its leaves grow from the top and cascade downwards, which makes it resemble a mini palm tree.

Native to Mexico, this subtropical tree is typically found on cliffs and in mountainous areas where the soil is quite rocky.

It is one of the hardiest and most tolerant houseplants in the world, and because it is a slow grower, there is little to do for it in terms of maintenance.

In this article, we will learn more about the ponytail palm and its proper cultural care. So, if you want to learn more about this fascinating plant, just keep reading.

About the ponytail palm

The ponytail palm, or Beaucarnea recurvata, is flexible enough to be an indoor or outdoor plant. 

When it is allowed to grow in an outdoor garden with plenty of space, it can become as big as a full-sized tree. When grown indoors in a pot, it will have a stout stem from which the leaves will grow, and it might even look as if the leaves are growing directly from the ground.

In ideal growing conditions, the plant can reach heights of up to six feet.

Because it is a slow grower, it can take more than five years for a foot-tall ponytail palm to grow another foot in height.

It does not do well in cold temperatures; it is only hardy to zones 10 to 11, so make sure you take it indoors when the seasons start to change.

Is the ponytail palm succulent?

Yes, the ponytail palm is a succulent that belongs to the Asparagaceae family, which also includes other popular succulents like agaves and yuccas. Like most succulents, it has the ability to store water in its large trunk for use in the event of drought. This makes it able to grow in some of the driest conditions on earth, as it does not need that much water to survive.

Ponytail palm care

Light requirements

The ponytail palm is quite flexible when it comes to the light conditions it can tolerate. You can choose to plant it under full sunlight, partial shade or bright, indirect light.

As with most succulents, the ponytail palm will actually grow a little slower when it gets lots of sunlight. This is not necessarily bad for the plant, but if you want it to grow faster, then partial shade is probably best.

If you live in a place where the sun shines intensely, the plant’s leaves can suffer sun damage, so look out for signs of too much light, including browning leaf tips and wilting.

If you think your plant is getting too much sunlight, transfer it immediately to a shadier spot, such as under a large tree or near the side of a building where it can get a few hours in the shade each day.

The ponytail palm will probably do fine indoors with low light conditions, but this is not ideal in the long term. Its leaves will eventually become pale since the plant will no longer be able to photosynthesize effectively. This is why lots of sunlight is always better.

If you think your indoor plant is not getting enough light, transfer it to a sunnier spot such as right next to a window.

If you live in a place where natural sunlight may be scarce for a few months of the year, you might need to use a grow light to help keep the plant happy. Alternatively, you could just choose to grow succulents that actually like to live in low light conditions.

Soil requirements

A cactus or succulent potting mix should be sufficient for the ponytail palm, as it likes its potting mix to be well-draining. It grows in rocky soil in its natural habitat, so it is best to simulate that in your home setup.

Make sure that both your potting mix and your pot have good drainage so that the soil does not end up perpetually wet or soggy; the plant hates this. You can actually add coarse sand and perlite to the succulent or cactus mix to make it even more well-draining.

The pot needs to have sufficient holes at the bottom so that any excess water in the soil can easily flow out.

Watering requirements

The ponytail palm is a succulent that does not like to be watered too often, but that does not mean you can just neglect to water it whenever you feel like it. It is still a plant and it requires water to stay hydrated, as well as to transfer nutrients and minerals from the soil.

The water in the soil acts as a vessel for the roots to effectively absorb nutrients and minerals. So, when you underwater a plant, not only are you depriving it of moisture; you are also depriving it of the substances it needs to function properly.

If you think your plant is underwatered, water it immediately. Soak all of the soil in the pot with water until you can see the excess water dripping from the holes at the bottom of the pot.

Another common mistake made by ponytail palm owners is overwatering their plant. Overwatering can come about from giving the plant too much water every time you water it, watering it more often than you should, leaving it out in the rain for days on end, using potting mix or pots that have poor drainage, or not adjusting your watering habits to changes in the weather, season or climate.

You will know your ponytail palm is overwatered if the leaves are yellow and droopy; they may also feel soft and mushy to the touch.

A serious consequence of overwatering is root rot. This is a condition caused by prolonged exposure of the plant’s roots to waterlogged soil so that they cannot dry out in between waterings.

Because the roots are unable to dry out, they will drown and die. The dead roots will begin to rot and will become vulnerable to opportunistic pathogens such as fungi and bacteria. These pathogens will make the rot more aggressive and it will spread quickly to the rest of the plant, possibly even killing it.

If you think your ponytail palm is overwatered, stop watering it immediately and place it in a sunny spot so that the soil dries out faster.

If you want to check for root rot, you will have to remove the plant from its pot. Wash off as much soil as you can from the roots, and be gentle about it, because the roots could be fragile and easily damaged.

Inspect the roots for sections that have turned brown or black. These are rotten and will have to be removed. Use a sterile pair of scissors to do this until only the healthy, white roots remain.

Lay the plant on a dry surface to let the roots air-dry for a few hours, and fill a new pot two-thirds of the way with fresh potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more soil.

Water the soil until it is moist but not soggy, and place the plant where it can get bright, indirect light.

The best way to avoid both underwatering and overwatering is by developing good watering habits. You should always check the moisture in the soil before watering the plant. If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still a little damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

Temperature requirements

The ponytail palm is not that particular when it comes to temperature, especially if it is grown indoors. As long as the temperature in your house is at a comfortable level, the ponytail palm can adapt to it.

The temperature range that is ideal for the plant is between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

If you keep the plant outdoors and the temperature drops below 45 degrees, you will need to bring it into the house. It does not do well if exposed to these temperatures for extended periods of time.

The plant will also go dormant over winter, and in this state, it is best kept in temperatures between 50 and 55 degrees Fahrenheit.

Humidity requirements

The natural habitat of the ponytail palm is not humid, so the same goes for its preferred humidity levels when growing in your home.

It can grow in any spot in your house as long as there is ample light, even if the air in that room is quite dry.

Do not place it in the most humid parts of your house, such as the bathroom or the kitchen, because the humidity maybe a little too high for it there.

Fertilizer requirements

If you want to fertilize your ponytail palm to make it start blooming, then know that you do not need to do this.

The plant typically gets all the nutrients and minerals it needs from the soil in its pot.

Also, flowering in ponytail palms is quite rare, especially compared with other flowering succulents. If the plant does produce flowers, they will appear on yellow bracts that will grow from the top of the plant.

If you do want to help the plant reach its full potential, it is okay to fertilize it; just make sure the fertilizer is at half-strength so that it is not too concentrated.

Fertilize the plant once a month, only during its growing season.

Ponytail palm growth

Another name for this plant is the elephant tree, apparently because of the slow rate at which it grows. The size of your ponytail palm will depend on when it was planted and where it is growing.

A ponytail palm that is allowed to grow in the ground outdoors can grow to over 15 feet high, while an indoor potted ponytail palm will only reach a maximum height of around three feet.

So, if you want to keep the plant at a manageable size that can be transferred from room to room, you are better off planting it in a pot.

An indoor plant may not have as long a lifespan as one that is grown outdoors, but it still has quite a long life. Outdoor ponytail palms have been known to survive for hundreds of years.

How to propagate a ponytail palm

Propagating the ponytail palm through pup division is the easiest method, but you can only do this if your parent plant already has shoots that you can dig out from around its base.

Using a sterile knife, cut between the pups and the parent plant to separate them. The pups will most likely be around a few inches long.

Prepare new pots by filling them with fresh potting mix and placing the individual pups into the soil.

Water each new plant thoroughly and then place a plastic bag over each pot to trap the humidity around the pup.

Keep the growing pups in a warm room and misteach pup every few days, just enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy.

The pot you use for the pups should also have drainage holes at the bottom so that the excess water can flow out and your plants have less chance of being overwatered.

After a few weeks, you should see roots growing close to the surface of the soil and you can then transfer the new plants into larger pots if you would like to.

Pests

The ponytail palm is one of those plants that are not susceptible to pests, but that does not mean they are completely pest-resistant.

The most commonly observed pests on ponytail palms are scale insects, mealybugs, and spider mites.

You can typically see these pests and the damage they inflict on the leaves of the plant. You will see black or white spots, while spider mites will also leave webbing on the leaves.

If the infestation is not that extensive, you can get rid of the pests by knocking them off the plant with a steady stream of water from a garden hose.

You can also use insecticide, but if you do not want to use chemicals on your plant or around your house, you can spray rubbing alcohol on the affected areas on the plant.

Alternatively, you can wipe the affected areas with neem oil on a cotton swab.

Repeat your chosen method every three days until you are sure that all of the pests have been eradicated.

Before you perform any pest control treatment, take the infested plant away from your other healthy plants so that the infestation does not spread. Keep the plant in quarantine for several weeks until you are sure that no new pests have appeared, after which it is safe to take it back to where your other plants are.

Conclusion

Yes, the ponytail palm, or Beaucarnea recurvata, is succulent. It belongs to the Asparagaceae family of succulents. This plant grows in dry conditions and in rocky soil in its natural habitat, and it stores water in its trunk for use in the event of drought.

Only water this plant when the top two inches of soil in the pot are dry to the touch. It should be kept in a spot where it can get at least bright, indirect light for most of the day.

You do not need to fertilize the plant, but you can if you want to; just do so at half-strength.

The ponytail palm does not like humidity and should be kept in temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

If you just provide this plant with its most basic needs, it will be a happy part of your home for decades to come.

Image: istockphoto.com / RenataKa

Yes, purslane, or Portulaca oleracea, is a succulent native to Africa, Europe, the Middle East, India, and Australia. Like most succulents, it has thick leaves and stems that can absorb and store water for the plant to use in the event of a drought. This means it can tolerate long periods without watering than most regular plants.

Purslane is an annual succulent that is considered either a weed or a medicinal plant, depending on the time in history. It has been gaining popularity again recently for its nutritional benefits, such as its vitamin, mineral, and antioxidant content. The stems, flowers, and leaves of the plant can all be eaten.

Common purslane has leaves that resemble those of the jade plant: fleshy and oblong-shaped.

In this article, we will learn more about purslane and its proper cultural care. So, if you are planning on adding this plant to your succulent garden, or if you simply want to learn more about it, just keep reading.

What is Purslane?

The purslane plant is also known as pusley, fatweed, pigweed or hogweed. It is an annual flowering succulent that can grow to about nine inches tall and 12 inches wide.

It blooms during the early summer, continuing until the frost starts, and the flowers can be pink, red, yellow, orange, or white.

Purslane can tolerate cold temperatures up to hardiness zone 2.

It is edible both raw and cooked and is said to contain more beta carotene than a carrot.

Is purslane succulent?

Yes, purslane is a succulent native to Africa, Europe, the Middle East, India, and Australia. It has thick, fleshy, oblong-shaped leaves and juicy stems that store water for the plant to use in the event of drought.

Purslane plant care

Light requirements

Purslane prefers bright, direct sunlight, especially if you want it to produce flowers.  A plant that is kept indoors, where it does not get the light that it needs, will have a hard time producing blooms, and even if it does, they might not open due to the lack of light.

This plant likes six to eight hours of full sunlight every day, but if you live in a place where the sunlight is particularly harsh, it is still possible for it to get sun damage. In that case, you will notice the tips of the leaves turning yellow or brown and becoming crisp.

 If your plant is getting too much light, you might need to transfer it to another spot where it can get a little more shade every day.

A purslane plant that does not get as much light as it needs will have pale, droopy leaves and leggy stems. The latter is due to a process called etiolation, which is when the desperate plant focuses its energy on growing selected stems in the direction of the closest source of light so that it can continue to perform photosynthesis. 

If you think your plant is not getting enough light, transfer it to a spot where it can get at least six hours of sunlight a day.

If you live in an apartment, place it next to a window and make sure you turn it every few days so that all sides can get their fair share of time in the sun.

If you live where sunlight is scarce during winter, you might need to use a grow light to provide the plant with its lighting needs.

Watering requirements

Like most succulents, purslane does not need that much water because it can store a significant amount in its leaves and stems. It may not be as drought-tolerant as cacti, but it is more than capable of surviving dry spells when compared with regular houseplants.

Correct watering can also determine the success of the plant’s flowering; it does need its soil to be a bit moist at all times. As long as the soil is well-draining, your chances of overwatering will be greatly decreased.

If you keep the plant outdoors and are anticipating a long stretch without rainfall, water the plant well until all of the soil is soaked and all the roots have had adequate access to moisture.

An underwatered plant will have yellowing or browning leaves that are wilted. To resolve this, water the plant immediately. Keep watering the soil until you can see excess water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Another common mistake is overwatering the plant. This can happen if you give the plant too much water every time you water it if you water it more frequently than you need to, if you leave the plant outdoors during rainy weather, if the soil or the pot has poor drainage, or if you do not adjust your watering habits according to changes in the weather, season and climate.

Overwatering causes the plant’s roots to stand in waterlogged soil for prolonged periods so that they cannot dry out completely between waterings.

Plant roots need to dry out periodically in order to absorb oxygen; if they are in wet soil all the time, they will drown and begin to rot. The rotting roots will then be susceptible to opportunistic pathogens like fungi and bacteria, which will make the rot more aggressive and cause it to spread to the rest of the plant. Once the rot has reached the stems and leaves, it may be too late to save the plant.

If you think your purslane is overwatered, stop watering it immediately and place it in a sunny spot to help the soil dry out faster.

If you suspect that the plant has root rot, you will need to remove it from its pot. Wash off as much soil as you can from the roots, and be gentle as you do this because they will be quite fragile at this point.

Inspect all of the roots and look for sections that have turned brown or black. These roots are rotten and will have to be removed. Use a sterile knife or pair of scissors to do this until only the healthy, white roots remain.

Place the plant on dry paper towels to let the air of the root dry for a few hours.

Prepare a new pot by filling it two-thirds of the way with a fresh succulent potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more soil.

Water the repotted plant and let the excess water drain from the bottom of the pot before placing the plant back in its original spot.

The best way to avoid both underwatering and overwatering is by developing good watering habits. Water the plant when the top layer of soil is dry to the touch and the lower layers are slightly moist, but not wet. 

Soil requirements

Purslane likes to grow in rocky, sandy soil because this type of potting medium drains water well.

If you plan on planting the purslane in your outdoor garden, check the consistency of the soil first. Make sure it is not dense, like clay, because this means it will hold too much moisture and may cause overwatering and root rot.

If the soil in your garden is too dense and compact, it is better to plant the purslane in a container where you can use a well-draining potting mix.

You can make your regular potting soil more well-draining by incorporating perlite or coarse sand into it.

The pot that you use for your plant should have sufficient holes at the bottom so that even if you accidentally overwater the plant, the excess will simply flow out of the holes and will not stagnate in the pot.

Temperature and humidity requirements

This plant is adept at growing in hot and dry places, but it can still grow in cooler conditions as long as it is taken indoors when the frost arrives.

It grows best and fastest during the summer because the heat and the abundant light encourage the growth of both foliage and flowers.

Try not to keep the plant in the more humid rooms in your houses, such as the bathroom or the kitchen.

Fertilizer requirements

Like most succulents, purslane does not really need to be fertilized to thrive. Loose, rocky soil, which is what it knows best, does not hold so many nutrients and minerals, especially compared with regular potting soil that contains lots of organic material.

But, if you want to help your plant out, you can give it a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to promote healthy growth and for greater flowering success.

Fertilizing twice during the growing season is enough.

A fertilizer that is high in phosphorus is best when you want the plant to start flowering and produce plenty of flowers.

Pruning the purslane

Purslane does not really need to be pruned much, because it only ever reaches about six inches in height.

The ideal time of year to prune the plant, if you want to, is in the spring before any new stems and leaves start to grow. Make sure that the stems and leaves you choose to remove are the ones that look ill or are about to die and fall off anyway.

If there are parts of the plant that look too thick and dense, you can also thin those out.

Use a sterile pair of shears or scissors to prune the plant, so that no diseases are spread.

How to propagate purslane

The easiest way to propagate purslane is to use cuttings. These will root easily and there is a higher chance of success with this method.

Choose a mature purslane plant that has bloomed at least once in a season, and choose a healthy stem to make a four-inch cutting. Use a sterile knife or scissors to do this. There must be one or more nodes included in the cutting.

Remove the leaves and flowers from the lower half of the cutting and place the cutting on a dry surface for a couple of days to allow the cut end to callus over.

Prepare a new pot and fill it with a well-draining succulent soil mixture, ideally containing some sand, perlite, soil, and peat moss.

Bury about two inches of the cutting in the potting mix, cut side down.

You can place a plastic bag over the container so that some humidity is trapped around the growing succulent.

Place the container in a spot where the plant can get bright, indirect light and where the temperature is between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Water the cutting occasionally, so that the soil is always a bit moist but never soggy.

After two weeks, check the status of the root growth by pulling gently on the cutting and feeling for resistance. If there is resistance, that means the roots have grown in nicely and you can start caring for the plant as you would a regular purslane plant.

How to get your purslane to bloom

Sometimes getting the purslane to bloom can be a struggle. Even if it does produce flowers, you might feel the plant is not reaching its full blooming potential. The most likely culprit in these scenarios is too much water and perpetually soggy soil.

As mentioned above, purslane may like slightly moist soil, but it does not like too much water around its roots for long periods of time. Overwatering can cause the plant to cease blooming altogether.

To remedy the lack of blooms, resolve any overwatering issues first and this could make a world of difference when it comes to flower production.

Another reason your plant is not producing flowers could be that it is not getting the light that it needs. Even two hours of lost light can make the difference. This is why six to eight hours of sunlight is suggested for this plant; if you only give it four hours of sunlight every day, it might have very few buds, if any at all.

If your purslane is in your garden but still has no flowers, check the other plants around it, because there might be some that are too tall and are blocking the purslane’s light source.

Conclusion

Yes, purslane is a succulent that is native to Africa, Europe, the Middle East, India, and Australia.

The plant has succulent leaves and stems that can store extra water for the plant to use in the event of a drought.

This is a low-growing plant that produces colorful flowers; it is low-maintenance and very easy to propagate.

Purslane likes to get six to eight hours of sunlight every day, and this is vital if you want the plant to have lush leaves and produce lots of flowers. 

It likes its soil to be well-draining but slightly moist at all times, and as long as the temperature around it does not dip to frost levels, the plant should be fine. It does not really like humidity, so keep it away from humid parts of the house such as the bathroom and the kitchen.

You can easily propagate this plant using stem cuttings. This method is the easiest and will yield the most successful results.

If you want to increase your plant’s chances of blooming, give it all the light it needs every day and make sure not to overwater it.

Image: istockphoto.com / Annerieke Schuurman

Yes, the snake plant, or Sansevieria, or Dracaena trifasciata, is a succulent. It has long, thick leaves that can store water for the plant to use in the event of a drought.

The snake plant is one of the most popular succulents in the world, largely due to its reputation as “unkillable”; it can tolerate considerable neglect and still survive.

The unique shape of its leaves also makes the plant a great choice for both outdoor gardens or indoors as part of your home decor.

In this article, we will learn more about this fascinating succulent, so if you want to read up on it before adding it to your collection, just keep reading.

What is a snake plant?

The snake plant is a succulent native to the tropical regions of the African continent.

It is part of the Agave family and is also commonly known as the mother-in-law’s tongue.

The most noticeable physical characteristic of the snake plant is the shape of its leaves, which resemble swords; they stand straight and erect when the plant is healthy and well-hydrated.

This plant is one of the most low-maintenance succulents you can find: it can tolerate a wide range of temperatures, humidity levels, and light conditions. This makes it the perfect plant for a novice gardener to begin with.

Are snake plants succulents?

Yes, snake plants are succulents; they belong to the same family as agaves. They are able to absorb and store water in their large, fleshy leaves, for use in the event of drought – or when their owners neglect to water them for days or even weeks.

Snake plant care

Light requirements

As mentioned above, the snake plant is native to the tropics of Africa, which means that, despite being able to tolerate very warm climates, it grows best in bright, indirect light.

If you grow the plant outdoors under full sunlight, this can lead to sun damage.

If you notice parts of the leaves turning yellow or brown and becoming dry or even crispy, this could mean that the plant is getting a little too much light and you may need to transfer it to another spot where it can get more shade.

If you are keeping the plant indoors, keep it next to north- or east-facing window, because those windows let in weaker light.

If the only windows available in your home are south- or west-facing windows, the plant might get light that is a bit too harsh. You can still place your snake plant next to these windows, but you will need to place a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the light.

Water requirements

On average, the snake plant should be watered once every month, or every four weeks.

The important thing to remember, if you are ever unsure as to whether the plant needs water, is to check the dryness of the soil in the pot. You can do this by first checking the top layers of soil from the top, and then check the soil in the bottom of the pot through the drainage holes.

If the soil looks and feels dry, water all of it thoroughly until you can see excess water start to drain out of the holes at the bottom of the pot.

If there is a saucer below the pot that catches the dripping water, make sure you empty the saucer after every watering. If you leave water in the saucer, it can lead to signs of overwatering in the plant.

Because the snake plant is succulent, it is more susceptible to overwatering than underwatering. The damage incurred from getting too much water is incomparable to the minimal damage caused by underwatering.

An overwatered snake plant’s leaves will become yellow, then brown, and they will also become soft and mushy to the touch.

The leaves will absorb more and more water because of all the excess water in the soil; this will make them heavier, and they will start to droop from all the weight.

If you are unable to resolve the overwatering problem in its early stages, the plant may develop root rot. This is a condition caused by prolonged exposure of the roots to waterlogged soil, leaving them unable to dry out properly between waterings. The roots will drown and die, and will start to rot. They will also become vulnerable to fungi and bacteria living in the soil, which will make the rot spread more aggressively to the rest of the plant. Eventually, the rot can even kill the plant.

If you think your snake plant is overwatered, stop watering it immediately and let the soil dry out completely. Place it in a spot where it gets lots of light, so the light and warmth can also help to dry the soil out.

If you want to check for root rot, you will need to remove the plant from the pot so you can inspect the roots. Wash off as much soil as you can from the roots; be gentle about it, because the roots will be fragile in this state.

Inspect all of the roots and for sections that have turned brown or black. These roots are rotten and will need to be removed. Use a sterile knife or pair of scissors to prune them away until only healthy, white roots remain.

Lay the plant on a dry surface and let the roots air-dry for a few hours.

Prepare a new pot, with drainage holes, by filling it two-thirds of the way with fresh succulent potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot, cover the roots with soil, and place it in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light. 

Avoid both underwatering and overwatering by developing good watering habits and adjusting them according to changes in the weather, season, and climate.

If you are able to collect rainwater, that is the cheapest and most ideal type of water to give your snake plant. If not, try to use distilled or filtered water so that none of the minerals present in tap water make their way into the plant’s soil. The effects of the minerals in tap water may not be immediately noticeable, but over time the minerals will accumulate and this can lead to a salt build-up that is harmful to the plant’s roots.

If you only have tap water at your disposal, fill a large container with it and let the water stand for two days. This way, the fluoride and chlorine will dissipate and the water will be safe to use on the plant.

Make sure the temperature of the water is lukewarm. If you give the plant water that is too hot or too cold, it can get shocked which can lead to other problems.

Temperature requirements

The preferred temperature range for the snake plant is 60 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

If you keep it indoors, it should be able to tolerate any temperature in the house.

As long as you do not keep the plant outdoors in frost and cold below 50 degrees, it will be fine. The moment you notice the weather outside getting cold, make sure you take the plant indoors and only bring it back outside when spring arrives.

Humidity requirements

The perfect humidity level for the snake plant is somewhere between 40 and 50 percent.

The plant can tolerate a little dryness in the air around it, but it will also do just fine in humid rooms such as the kitchen or the bathroom.

As we mentioned earlier, this plant can endure a lot, and slight changes to the humidity will not have much of a negative effect on it.

Fertilizer requirements

Fertilizing this plant once a month during its active growing phase in the spring and summer is enough for it.

Use a balanced liquid fertilizer at half-strength; preferably one that is low in nitrogen. 

Refrain from feeding the plant in the winter because it does not need many nutrients or minerals in the winter when it is not actively growing. Also do not feed it when it has been recently repotted, because the fresh soil will still have plenty of nutrients for the plant to use.

Using too much fertilizer can cause soil toxicity, which can damage the roots. This can lead to the plant’s leaves drooping and falling off.

Snake plant growth

Snake plants can grow to heights of up to 12 feet tall, but this will depend on the variety you are growing. Some varieties can only reach an average height of five to six feet.

Snake plant propagation using leaf cuttings

The most common and easiest way to propagate your snake plant is by using leaf cuttings.

First, choose healthy leaves on the parent plant to use for the process. The parent plant has to be fully mature and the leaves that you plan on cutting should be thick ones.

Using sterile pruning shears or scissors, cut the leaf about one inch above the ground at a 45-degree angle. 

Lay the leaf on a flat surface so you can measure it and cut it into one- to three-inch sections. Make sure you mark which end of each section is the top and which end is the bottom.

Leave the sections on a dry surface with good air circulation and leave them for five to seven days so that they callus over.

After this time, check for white nodules on each section. The presence of these nodules indicates root production.

Place some succulent potting mix into a large plastic pot. If you want the mix to be more well-draining, you can also add coarse sand or perlite to it.

Pour five cups of water into the soil in the pot and let any excess water drain out through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Place the cuttings into the pot, making sure one-third of each cutting’s length is beneath the soil.

Do not crowd the cuttings close to one another; there should be a few inches of space between each cutting.

Place the container near a window where it can get lots of bright, indirect light and good air circulation.

Water the cuttings once a week and make sure that the top inch of the soil is moist.

Do not overwater them because this can promote fungal growth and even root rot.

After one month, check the progress of the roots by gently tugging on the cutting. If you feel resistance, that means that the roots are coming along nicely.

Once the roots are well-developed, you can transfer the cuttings to their own pots and care for the new plants as you would a mature snake plant.

Conclusion

The snake plant, or Sansevieria, is a succulent that belongs to the Agave family. It has long, sword-shaped leaves that grow to an average height of six feet. These leaves are thick and fleshy and can absorb and store water for use in the event of drought.

The snake plant is one of the most resilient, low-maintenance houseplants in the world, which makes it a great choice for novice gardeners.

It only needs to be watered once a month and prefers bright, indirect light. It does not really need lots of humidity and can adapt to most humidity conditions without a problem. As long as the plant is taken indoors when the temperature gets below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, it will be fine. 

Fertilize the plant once a month in the spring and summer when it is actively growing, and propagate it using leaf cuttings.

Image: istockphoto.com / JackF

The wandering Jew, or Tradescantia zebrina, is a succulent. It is native to Mexico, Central America, and South America, and is typically incorporated into a garden as a ground cover.

One of the main reasons this plant is so popular is because of its lovely foliage. Its leaves have deep purple-colored undersides, while the tops have greenish-blue or silvery-gray stripes.

Because it is native to tropical rainforests, it differs from most succulents in that it is better adapted to moist and shady places.

In this article, we will discuss more of this plant and how to properly care for it. So, if you want to learn more about it before adding it to your garden, just keep reading.

What is the wandering Jew?

The wandering Jew, or Tradescantia zebrina, is a succulent plant native to Mexico and parts of Central and South America. There are other Tradescantia species that are also called wandering Jew, but the zebrina variety is what the common name typically refers to.

This plant is low-maintenance and grows very fast, which is why it is often used as a ground cover in gardens. It is also grown as an indoor plant by many people, because of its beautiful foliage with zebra-like stripes.

Is the wandering Jew a succulent?

Yes, the wandering Jew is a succulent. Even though it is native to rainforests and prefers a more moist and shadier setting than most succulents, it still shares many succulent characteristics.

Its stems and leaves are fleshy and can store water for use in the event of drought. Although it likes moist soil, it is also quite sensitive to overwatering and can even get root rot if the problem is not resolved in time. We will discuss more about root rot later in this article.

Wandering Jew plant care

Light requirements

Most succulents like full sunlight, especially those that are native to hot, dry regions of the world. Even if you keep those succulents indoors, you still need to provide them with lots of light, be it right next to a window or by using grow lights to supplement their light requirements.

The wandering Jew, however, is native to rainforests and grows close to the ground, so it is used to getting only the dappled sunlight that filters through the forest tree canopy. It is best for the plant if you simulate this wherever you are growing it.

This means you should provide the plant with bright, indirect light. If you are growing it outdoors, make sure the plant is under the shade of a large tree or near the side of a building. This gives it several hours of shade throughout the day.

If you are growing the plant indoors, you can still place it near a window, as long as it is a north- or east-facing window. These windows let in the weakest light that will not burn your plant. If the only windows available in your home let in harsh light, you can diffuse the light with a sheer curtain.

Be observant of the plant’s reactions to the light it receives. If its leaves are turning yellow or brown and becoming crispy, it might be that the plant is getting too much light. Transfer it to a shadier spot as soon as possible.

 If the plant’s leaves are becoming pale and droopy, this could be because it is not getting as much light as it needs. It could also become leggy. In this case, transfer the plant to where it can get a little more light.

Watering requirements

The wandering Jew likes its soil a little moister than the typical succulent. This is because it is used to growing in the rainforest where the soil is perpetually moist, but never really waterlogged either.

An underwatered wandering Jew will have dry leaves, and soil in its pot will be bone-dry. A rainforest plant does not do well in such conditions.

If you think your plant is underwatered, water it immediately, making sure to soak all of the soil in the pot so that all the roots get their fair share of water.

An overwatered wandering Jew, on the other hand, will have droopy leaves that have turned yellow or brown. Instead of their usual rigid structure, the overwatered leaves will feel soft and mushy to the touch.

A serious consequence of overwatering is root rot. This is when the plant’s roots are left to stand in perpetually soggy soil and never given the chance to dry out between waterings.

In these conditions, the roots will drown and start to rot. The dead roots will become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens in the soil, such as fungi and bacteria. These pathogens will make the rot more aggressive and cause it to spread faster to the rest of the plant, possibly even leading to the plant’s death.

If you think your plant is overwatered, stop watering it and let the soil in the pot dry out completely. Place the plant in a sunny spot to help the soil and the roots dry out faster.

If you suspect root rot in your plant, you will need to remove it from the pot to check the roots. Gently wash the soil from the roots; they will be fragile in this state. Inspect the roots for sections that have turned brown or black. These are rotten and you should remove them with a sterile knife or pair of scissors, so that only healthy, white roots remain.

Lay the plant on dry paper towels to let the roots dry.

Choose a new pot that has drainage holes at the bottom and fill it two-thirds with fresh potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more soil.

Water the soil until it is properly moist, and return the plant to a spot where it can get bright, indirect light.

Soil requirements

Unlike most succulents, the wandering Jew can do well in slightly denser soil, as long as it is still able to drain the excess water.

Make sure that your pot also has sufficient drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to drain out easily if you happen to accidentally overwater the plant, or if the plant gets a little too much rain when kept outdoors.

Do not let the soil dry out completely, because the plant’s roots like the soil to be a bit moist at all times.

Temperature requirements

The wandering Jew can tolerate temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. If the plant is left outside in temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit for extended periods, this can have detrimental effects and may even lead to the plant’s death.

The ideal temperature for the plant is anywhere between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It is much easier to maintain this range when the plant is kept indoors, but as long as you remember to bring it indoors when the temperatures dip below 50 degrees, you will have no problem growing it outdoors, either.

Humidity requirements

Based on the native habitats of the wandering Jew, it is easy to deduce that this plant is a big fan of humidity.

It is important for it to get the same kind of humidity levels wherever it is grown. If the air is a little dry in your house, you can help the plant out by misting it every once in a while with some water.

You can also use a water pebble tray. Place the plant’s pot on top of this tray and, as the water evaporates, it will moisten the plant’s leaves and the soil inside the pot.

You can also group the plant near other humidity-loving plants, so that together they can create a microclimate around themselves.

Or, if you have the means, you can purchase a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity levels in the room, so that you do not have to worry about it.

Fertilizer requirements

You can fertilize your wandering Jew once a month during its growing season in the spring and summer. Refrain from feeding it during winter.

Do not start fertilizing the plant until two years after it was initially planted or repotted. This is because the fresh soil used when planting or repotting will have enough nutrients and minerals to provide for the plant, so it will not need fertilization for some time.

Repotting the wandering Jew

Just like other plants, the wandering Jew needs to be repotted when it gets too a little too big for its pot, and if its roots have started to grow out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

This plant does tend to grow fast; however, because its lifespan is only two or three years, you are not likely to end up repotting it too many times.

How to propagate the wandering Jew using stem cuttings

The parent plant from which you remove the cuttings should be very healthy and have several stems to choose from. Use a sterile knife or pair of scissors to cut off the stems, making sure that each cutting is at least three inches long.

Remove the leaves close to the base of the cutting. This is important because if you bury any leaves in the soil, they will rot and this is not healthy for the growing plant.

Place the cutting into a container of fresh potting soil that has been watered thoroughly beforehand.

You can place a plastic bag over the container to increase the humidity, but make sure you remove the plastic bag every time you water the cutting to let it breathe.

Place the container in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light.

After a few weeks, the cutting will have sprouted roots and they should be well-established. You can check this by giving the cutting a gentle tug. If you feel resistance, it means the roots are anchored in the soil and you can now transfer the plant to a bigger pot and care for it as you would a regular plant.

Does a wandering Jew produce flowers?

Yes, the wandering Jew produces flowers, but this is more likely to happen when the plant is grown outdoors. Indoor wandering Jews very rarely produce flowers, if at all.

How long is a wandering Jew’s lifespan?

You can expect this plant to live for an average of three years. Past three years, the plant’s quality of life will start to dramatically decrease and if you want to continue having it in your garden, you will need to propagate it.

Pests

The two most common pests observed on wandering Jew plants are spider mites and aphids. The bigger the infestation, the more damage these pests will cause, such as leaf drop.

Both of these pests feed on the sap from the foliage of the plant, and the places where they bite into the leaves will have little, dark brown spots. They also leave honeydew on the plant which is a tell-tale sign of their presence.

The honeydew can also attract other insects to the plant, which can then cause even more damage.

Aphids reproduce at a rapid rate and prefer dry, warm environments, so regular misting of the plant can help prevent them.

You can use a strong stream of water to knock the pests off your plant. Just make sure to keep the plant away from your other plants while you do this, because this can easily cause the pests to spread.

It can be a bit difficult to spot an infestation in its early stages; when the pests become noticeable, the infestation is probably full-blown.

You can also spray rubbing alcohol on the affected parts of the plant to kill the pests. Or, if you have neem oil, you can apply it directly on the affected areas with a cotton swab.

Repeat the process every three days until you are sure that all of the pests have been eradicated.

Conclusion

The wandering Jew, or Tradescantia zebrina, is a succulent. It is native to Mexico, Central America, and South America. It is a low-growing, low-maintenance plant that is used as ground cover in many gardens. These plants are popular due to the beautiful colors of their leaves and the fact that they grow very fast and can cover areas at a rapid rate.

To keep the wandering Jew happy, you need to provide it with bright, indirect light, just like it would get in the rainforests to which it is native.

The plant’s soil should be a little bit moist all the time, but never soggy.

The ideal temperature for this plant is between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

Fertilize it once a month during the spring and summer, and refrain from feeding it during the winter.

The common pests to watch out for are aphids and spider mites. Get rid of these pests by knocking them off the plant with a strong stream of water, spraying the plant with rubbing alcohol, or applying neem oil directly on the affected areas of the plant.

Image: istockphoto.com / Jamaludin Yusup

Yes, the ice plant, or Delosperma, is succulent. It is native to the African continent and prefers sandy, well-draining soil.

It is typically used as a perennial ground cover because it is quite hardy to cold weather, although this is not the reason for its moniker; rather, it gets its name because its foliage resembles ice crystals when they shimmer in the light.

In this article, we will discuss more about the ice plant and what makes it succulent, as well as its proper cultural care. So, if you want to add the ice plant to your garden and wish to learn more about it, just keep reading.

What is an ice plant?

The ice plant, or Delosperma, is a warm-weather perennial succulent that produces beautiful orange, yellow, purple, red, pink, bi-color, or tri-color flowers. Its foliage is fleshy, like that of most succulents, which means it is able to absorb and store water for use in the event of drought.

It is called an ice plant because of how the tiny hairs on its surface reflect light at certain angles, making them look like ice crystals.

The leaves become darker as the temperature gets colder, especially in areas with cold winters. If you live in a place with no winters and a warmer climate, the ice plant will be evergreen.

This plant is typically used as a spreading ground cover. It blooms in the springtime, continuing throughout the growing season.

The best time to plant it is in the middle of summer in cooler climates, while fall planting is best for those in warmer regions.

The plant can grow up to six inches high and 24 inches wide, at the most.

It can tolerate cold temperatures from hardiness zones 6 to 10.

Ice plant care

Light requirements

Ice plants can grow both indoors and outdoors, but wherever the plant is kept, it still has the same requirements; that is, full sunlight.

Your outdoor ice plant will probably not have any problem growing in your outdoor garden, because it will get exactly the light that it likes, but indoor plants might not. They may be able to grow in partial shade, but that does not mean they will be completely happy.

For an indoor ice plant, make sure you place it next to the sunniest window in your house. Try to get it as close to full sunlight as you can, despite being inside the house.

Also, make sure you rotate the plant every week so that all sides of it get their time in the sun.

If you live in a place where natural sunlight may be scarce for several months of the year, you might need to get a grow light to help the plant during the colder months.

Soil requirements

Ice plants do have a preference when it comes to soil type. They do not like heavy soils, such as clay, that are dense and compact; these retain too much moisture and can cause root rot, which we will discuss later in this article.

The ice plant likes soil that is loose and well-draining, with a neutral pH. The best soil mix for this plant is one that contains loam, gravel, and sand.

The container or pot that the ice plant is in should also have drainage holes at the bottom so that, even if you accidentally pour too much water in the soil, the excess water will simply flow out, lessening the risk of overwatering.

Water requirements

Ice plants, like most succulents, are tolerant – or even resistant – to drought. They can go for long periods without water because they can store water in their leaves for use during dry spells.

But, even though the plant can survive water neglect, that does not mean you can just forget to water it all the time. It can still suffer from the effects of underwatering, in which case it will dry out and turn brown from lack of water. Remember that a plant does not need water only for the moisture, but also because it uses water to transport nutrients and minerals from the soil into its roots.

Because the ice plant is succulent, it is more susceptible to damage from overwatering than underwatering. Overwatering can come about from giving the plant too much water every time you water it, watering it more often than you need to, using soil or a pot that has poor drainage, or not adjusting your watering habits to changes in the weather, season or climate.

An overwatered ice plant will have yellowing, mushy leaves which may start to droop. This is because the plant’s roots are standing in soggy soil and are thus unable to function properly.

Overwatering can also lead to a more serious problem, which is root rot.

Root rot is a condition caused by prolonged exposure of the roots to waterlogged soil, leaving them unable to dry out completely between waterings, and thus unable to absorb oxygen. If they cannot absorb oxygen due to the soggy soil, the roots will drown and start to rot.

The rot will attract opportunistic pathogens, such as fungi and bacteria in the soil. The pathogens will cause the rot to become more aggressive and spread even faster to the rest of the plant. By the time the rot has reached the leaves of the ice plant, there is a high possibility that the plant will die.

If you think that your ice plant is overwatered, stop watering it immediately and let the roots and soil dry out completely before watering it again.

If you suspect root rot, you will need to check the roots. Remove the plant from its pot and wash the soil from the roots. Inspect the roots closely and look for sections that have turned brown or black. Remove these rotten roots using a sterile knife or pair of scissors.

Then, let the roots air-dry on a dry surface for a few hours while you prepare a new pot. This should have drainage holes at the bottom, and be filled with a well-draining potting mix. Place the plant in the pot and cover the roots with more soil. Position the pot in a spot where the plant can get plenty of sunlight.

To fix an underwatered ice plant, on the other hand, all you need to do is to give the plant a good soak. It should bounce back after a few days.

The best way to avoid both overwatering and underwatering is to develop good watering habits. There is no set schedule to follow when it comes to watering your ice plant. Instead, the best way to tell when the plant needs water is by feeling the top two inches of the soil. If the soil is dry to the touch, water the plant, but if the soil is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking again. Learn to adjust the volume and frequency of watering according to changes in the weather, season, and climate.

Temperature requirements

The ice plant is quite hardy to cold temperatures and can even survive in hardiness zone 6, despite being native to a warm climate.

As long as the plant is not exposed for long periods to temperatures lower than 10 degrees Fahrenheit, it should be fine.

If you have harsh winters with temperatures that drop below freezing, you might have to take your outdoor ice plants into your house during those times.

The ideal temperature around the plant should be between 35 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Humidity requirements

Because the ice plant is native to dry regions in Africa, it does not do well in places with high humidity. High humidity also creates a favorable environment for fungal growth and may even increase the likelihood of root rot.

Refrain from placing your plant in parts of your house that are humid, such as the bathroom or the kitchen. Also keep it away from other plants that like humidity, because they might create a microclimate around the ice plant that it will not like.

Fertilizer requirements

The ice plant produces flowers that can be orange, pink or yellow; in fact. they can even be a mix of two or three different colors. For the plant to bloom properly, it will require nutrients that its soil may not be able to provide, so you might have to fertilize it.

Using a balanced fertilizer in the spring, when the plant is actively growing, will help your plant to produce flowers. But, if it is blooming fine without the aid of fertilizer, there is no need to feed it.

Ice plant growth

The ice plant is a shrub, so it does not really grow very large. It can reach about six feet high and 24 inches wide, and rarely any wider.

If you care for the plant well and provide it with ideal growing conditions, it can grow quickly and reach its full size after a month.

If you are growing the ice plant as a ground cover, do not be afraid of trimming it to suit your preferred height, size or shape.

Repotting the ice plant

As long as the plant is well cared for and the roots are healthy, it should not really need to be repotted. These plants stay small throughout their mature life and their roots rarely if ever, get crowded.

The only time the ice plant may need to be repotted is if it has root rot, in which case the soil and the pot will have to be replaced to salvage the plant.

How to propagate the ice plant using stem cuttings

With a sterile knife or scissors, cut a healthy stem from the parent plant that is two to four inches long.

Remove the leaves nearest the bottom of the cutting, leaving only two or three leaves at the top. This is so that no leaves are accidentally buried under the soil, which would cause them to rot.

Leave the cutting on a dry surface, preferably overnight, to let it callus and air-dry.

Prepare a small container with fresh succulent potting mix. Make sure the container has drainage holes at the bottom. Moisten the soil with some water before planting the cutting.

Push the bottom end of the cutting into the soil until it is about two inches deep.

Add more water if you need to until the soil is properly soaked. The cutting may need more water than a regular ice plant, but you should still be careful not to overwater it.

Place the container in a spot where it will get indirect sunlight only. The growing cutting is more sensitive to light than a mature ice plant, so protect it from too much sun or you risk giving it sun damage.

After a few weeks, check the roots’ integrity by tugging on the cutting. If you can feel resistance, it means that the roots are well-established and have anchored themselves in the soil.

You can now transfer the plant to another, bigger pot, and care for it as you would any regular ice plant.

Conclusion

Yes, the ice plant is succulent. It is a low-growing, low-maintenance, flowering succulent native to the African continent. It has fleshy leaves that can store water for use in times of drought.

This plant is hardy to zones 6 to 10, and as long as the outdoor temperatures do not drop below 10 degrees Fahrenheit, you can grow the ice plant as a ground cover in your outdoor garden.

This plant may be able to survive low light conditions, but it is best to avoid keeping it in the shade because it is much happier in full sunlight.

Water the plant water when the top two inches of soil around its roots are dry. Use soil that is loose and sandy, because this is what the plant knows in its natural habitat.

The ice plant does not like humidity, so do not keep it in your bathroom or kitchen.

You do not need to fertilize it unless the soil is lacking the nutrients that the plant needs to produce flowers.

This plant does not grow very big, so repotting is not necessary and is usually only done if the plant has root rot.

You can propagate your ice plant using stem cuttings.

Image: istockphoto.com / sakura bunn

No, the money tree, or Pachira aquatica, is not a succulent. It is a  tropical wetland tree native to the swamps of Central and South America.

It is commonly grown as a houseplant in the United States, where its stems are often braided together for a unique decor effect.

The fact that it is low-maintenance adds to the plant’s popularity; it is easy to care for and requires very little attention.

In this article, we discuss what makes the money tree different from a succulent. So, if you want to learn more about this plant before adding it to your collection, just keep reading.

Why is it called a money tree?

There are different theories and stories as to how Pachira aquatica got its common name: the money tree.

Some people say there was an unfortunate farmer who badly needed money and prayed to the gods for help. He saw this plant growing in his fields and took it home with him, whereupon he then experienced great fortune.

This story may or may not be true, but this reputation as a source of good luck has persisted for decades and even centuries.

This plant is native to countries in Central and South America, and gained worldwide popularity in the 1980s.

A man from Taiwan apparently decided to try braiding the plant’s trunks in the belief that it would bring good fortune to whoever it was gifted to. Taiwan has since turned the export of money trees into a million-dollar industry. The older the money tree, the more expensive it is.

The process of braiding the trunks can be a bit complicated and needs to be done while the plant is still young and flexible. Once the trunks have been braided successfully, they will continue to grow in this manner.

The plant has even found its way into the practice of feng shui. Experts suggest placing it in a particular spot in one’s home so that the chi, or energy, flows well through the room. For the same reason, they are often placed in offices and workplaces as well.

In Japanese culture, money trees are adorned with ribbons and ornaments that are typically red, because red symbolizes prosperity and also makes a great contrast against the lush green color of the plant’s leaves.

Is a money tree a succulent?

No, the money tree, or Pachira aquatica, is a tropical wetland tree native to the swamps of Central and South America. It does not need as much light as succulents do, and because it grows in the swamps, it can thrive in plenty of water, whereas a succulent is quite sensitive to excess water. The money tree belongs to the Malcaceae family, which consists of flowering plants.

How to plant the money tree

Because the money tree is a low-maintenance plant, it does not require much to survive and thrive. You just need to provide its basic soil, humidity, temperature and water requirements to keep the plant happy.

The money tree can only survive outdoors in hardiness zones 10 to 12, which means it cannot stand outdoor temperatures lower than 45 degrees Fahrenheit for extended periods of time. The ideal temperature for the plant is between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. If you live in a hardiness zone 9 or lower, you are better off growing your money tree indoors year-round.

If you keep the plant indoors, the perfect spot for it is one that is a bit humid and gets bright, indirect light.

If you plant the money tree outdoors, be prepared for it to become a full-sized tree that might need a bit of space to grow. If you want the plant to grow at its best, try to simulate the growing conditions of its natural habitat, the swamps. If you have a stream or a river on your property, planting the money tree near that is the way to go.

Your chosen planting site should also be away from strong winds.

Money trees can be grown from either seeds or cuttings. If you are growing from seed, plant the seed a quarter-inch deep in moist soil.

Money tree care requirements

Water and humidity requirements

Even though the money tree’s natural habitat is swamps, that does not mean you can just water it every day without checking the soil’s moisture levels. This plant is still susceptible to overwatering if you are not careful.

Yes, this plant grows in places where lots of water can accumulate in the soil around its roots, but the soil in its natural habitat also dries out periodically, allowing the roots to dry out as well. The correct way to water the money tree is to mimic this. Give the plant lots of water so that all of the soil is soaked and the roots get their fair share, but then let the soil dry out before even considering watering it again.

In an indoor setting where the conditions are more controlled, you might only need to water the plant three times a month, at most. But, if you live in a place where the humidity is low, the soil in the pot will dry out faster and you might need to water it more frequently.

If your money tree is outside, you will know when it needs watering by touching the soil around the plant’s roots. If the top three inches of soil are dry to the touch, water the plant, but if the soil is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

When it comes to humidity, remember that the plant is native to the tropics so it appreciates a bit of humidity. If the air is dry indoors where you keep the plant, you might need to invest in a good humidifier to regulate the humidity around it.

If you do not have space in your budget to buy a humidifier, you can also use a water pebble tray. Place the pot on top of this tray so that, as the water evaporates from the tray, it will moisten the soil in the pot as well as the plant’s leaves.

If you overwater your money tree, its leaves will turn yellow or brown, droop, and possibly even drop off. If this happens, stop watering the plant immediately and let the soil dry out completely. You can also place the plant in a sunnier spot so that the light and heat can help the soil dry out faster.

If you have been overwatering the plant for weeks or even months, you might need to check the roots for rot.

Root rot is a condition caused by prolonged exposure of the roots to waterlogged soil. If the roots are unable to dry out between waterings, they will drown and die. The dead roots will start to rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens in the soil. These pathogens will make the rot more aggressive and cause it to spread faster to the rest of the plant, until eventually the entire plant is affected, including the stems and leaves, and might even die.

If you suspect root rot, you will need to check the plant’s roots. Remove it from the pot and wash off as much soil as you can from the roots. Be gentle as you do this because the roots will be fragile in this state.

Inspect all the roots and check for parts that have turned brown or black. These are rotten and need to be pruned off using a sterile knife or pair of scissors until only the healthy, white roots remain.

Then, lay the plant on dry paper towels and let the roots air-dry for several hours.

Choose a new pot that has drainage holes at the bottom and fill it with well-draining potting soil. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more soil.

Place the plant in a spot with a bit of humidity and where it can get plenty of bright, indirect light.

Light and temperature requirements

As mentioned above, this plant prefers bright, indirect light, so if you are growing it outdoors, place it under the shade of a larger tree or near a structure that will provide it with some shade. This does not mean you should keep it in low-light conditions, as this can lead to the leaves turning pale and the stems becoming leggy, due to a condition called etiolation.

Finding the perfect balance of light will also prevent sun damage on the plant. If the foliage gets too much sun, it will burn, turn brown and fall off the plant. The bigger and more mature the plant becomes, the more tolerant of heat and light it will be.

If you are keeping the plant indoors, make sure that it is not placed near a window that lets in too much light. If the only window in your home lets in harsh light, you can diffuse the light by placing a sheer curtain over the window. Turn the plant every week so that all sides of it get their time in the light. This practice also keeps the plant symmetrical and will lessen the chances of etiolation.

When it comes to the plant’s preferred temperature, anywhere between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal. As long as it does not drop lower than 45 degrees Fahrenheit, your money tree will be completely fine.

Soil requirements

The money tree does not have many particulars when it comes to soil type, as long as the soil is well-draining.

Avoid compact and dense soil types like clay-based soils, but if that is all you have, try adding perlite and organic components like peat to improve the drainage.

If you can get your hands on loamy soil that contains peat, that would be best. The roots can survive a little waterlogging, as long as the water can drain out of the soil quickly.

Although the plant can survive in alkaline or acidic soils, the ideal soil pH is between 6.0 and 7.5, which is right around the neutral zone.

Fertilizer requirements

The best fertilizer to use on your money tree is high in nitrogen, and the best time to feed the plant is in the springtime. This is when it is actively growing and will need the most nutrients and minerals from the soil.

You can still feed the plant in the fall, but switch over to a fertilizer with a lower nitrogen content and more potassium.

If you think the fertilizer you are using is too strong, try diluting it to half-strength to avoid soil toxicity, which can damage your plant’s roots.

Refrain from fertilizing in the winter, because this is when the plant is least active in terms of growth, so feeding it will only lead to soil toxicity.

Repotting your money tree

When choosing a new pot for your money tree, it should only be one size bigger than the old pot, because a pot that is too big will hold too much soil. More soil in the pot means more water is retained, thus increasing the chances of overwatering.

The new pot should also have drainage holes at the bottom so that any excess water can easily flow out, lessening the chances of overwatering and root rot.

If you plan to repot your money tree, make sure you water it well the night before so that it is happy and the soil in the pot is looser and softer the following day.

Remove the plant gently from its old pot and shake or wash off as much soil as you can from the roots. Inspect the roots for rot and use a sterile knife or scissors to remove any rotten parts until only healthy roots remain.

Lay the plant on dry paper towels and allow the roots to air-dry for a few hours.

Place half of the new soil in the new pot and position the plant in the middle before covering the roots with the rest of the soil.

Press down gently on the soil around the roots to make sure the plant is stable. Do not apply too much force because this can make the soil too compact, which the plant does not like.

Water the soil until you can see excess water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. If any soil is dislodged or misplaced by the water, replace it with more soil.

Remember that repotting is a traumatic experience for the plant, so do not be surprised if you see signs of stress in the following days, such as leaves drooping or dropping. Just continue caring for the plant as usual and it should bounce back with no problem after a few weeks.

Pruning and braiding the money tree

If you are growing the money tree outdoors and it is full-size, you can prune off any dead leaves and stems to preserve its overall aesthetic.

If you like keeping the tree at a certain size or height, pruning will also help control its growth.

Most indoor money trees are braided, so they do not really need to be pruned as much. If you want to braid your money tree, it is best to start when the plant is still young, and when it has at least three stems to complete a braid.

Begin to braid the stems into one another without forcing them into angles and positions for which they are not sufficiently flexible. You can secure the stems in place with some twine to guide stubborn stems in the direction you want them to grow. Eventually, the stems will relax into the shape you prefer and you can continue the braiding process.

Money tree growing problems

The money tree’s leaves are where most of its growing problems stem from – no pun intended.

If you notice the leaves of your money tree turning yellow, this could be due to low humidity, or you may not be feeding the plant as often as it would like.

If the leaves are turning brown and crispy, underwatering is the most likely cause and you need to water the plant as soon as possible.

If the leaves are becoming pale, droopy, and soft to the touch, the plant is probably overwatered and could also be suffering from root rot.

Another sign of overwatering is the presence of mold on the top layer of the soil. Mold and fungi love growing in moist and dank conditions, and this is something you need to resolve immediately.

Pests

The most commonly-observed pests on money trees are mealybugs, scale insects and aphids. These insects are quite small and they all damage the plant in the same way, by sucking the sap from the plant’s leaves. This leaves brown spots on the surface of the leaves.

These pests also hide on the underside of the leaves and in the nooks and crannies of the stems, which makes discovering the infestation quite difficult, especially in its early stages.

You can either knock these pests off the plant with a strong stream of water, or apply neem oil directly to the affected areas so that the insects are killed immediately.

You can also use rubbing alcohol directly on the pests to kill them.

Make sure that you keep the affected plant in another room, far away from your other plants so that the pests do not spread.

Repeat your chosen treatment every three days until you are sure there are no longer any pests left on the plant. Keep the money tree in quarantine for two more weeks after you have removed all the pests in case you missed any pests or their eggs. This way you do not risk infesting your other plants.

Conclusion

The money tree is not succulent. It is a tropical wetland tree native to the swamps of Central and South America. It is called the money tree because many cultures believe that the presence of the plant in their home brings good fortune.

It is a low-maintenance plant that only needs indirect light. Let the soil around the plant’s roots dry out between waterings, keep the temperature between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, give it well-draining soil, and fertilize it during the spring and summer but never during the winter.

Prune the plant if you want it to stay a certain height or if the foliage is becoming unruly.

Image: istockphoto.com / Michael Gollop

No, the eucalyptus is not succulent. This genus consists of over 700 evergreen shrubs and trees that are native to parts of Southeast Asia and the Australian continent.

Some eucalyptus species can reach heights of up to 60 feet, but when they are kept in pots as houseplants, they can be maintained at a reasonable and manageable height of only a few feet tall.

These plants have reddish-brown bark that tends to peel off on the smaller branches, and bluish-green leaves that can look almost silvery.

One of the most distinct characteristics of eucalyptus is the menthol aroma it gives off when it is bruised.

In this article, we will discuss more about eucalyptus and how to grow it in your garden or your home. So, if you are planning on adding some eucalyptus to your collection or if you just want to learn more, then keep reading.

What is eucalyptus?

You are probably familiar with eucalyptus as an essential oil or as the favorite tree of the cuddly koala, but you have probably never encountered an actual eucalyptus in real life.

Eucalyptus plants belong to the Myrtaceae family, and there are over 700 different species of eucalyptus, ranging from shrubs to very tall trees.

Most of these 700 species are native to Australia and have become almost impervious to the wildfires that frequent Australian forests. These plants can be burned very badly after a wildfire, yet still survive and resprout as though nothing had happened.

They grow best in parts of the United States that have a similar climate to Australia. They have been known to grow well outdoors in California, but they will have difficulty growing in the Northern states because of the cold winters there. If you live in a place with very cold winters, you are better off growing this plant in a pot indoors.

Is eucalyptus a succulent?

No, eucalyptus plants are not succulents. Succulents are native to some of the driest areas in the world and are characterized by their ability to absorb and store water in their fleshy leaves and bodies for use in the event of drought.

Eucalyptus plants do not share this characteristic; they are actually evergreen shrubs and trees native to Australia and Southeast Asia.

They are similar to succulents in the sense that they do well in warmer weather and poorly in cold weather, but other than that they do not really share many similarities.

What are the most common types of eucalyptus to keep as houseplants?

The eucalyptus variety most commonly found in nurseries around the United States is the baby blue eucalyptus or Eucalyptus pulverulenta. 

This is usually used in bouquets and flower arrangements, and it is able to retain its signature scent for a long time. Sprigs of baby blue eucalyptus can last a long time in the water because its leaves have a waxy coating that prevents them from drying out too quickly.

Other commonly-seen eucalyptus varieties in local nurseries are the lemon bush eucalyptus and the silver dollar eucalyptus.

The lemon bush eucalyptus has a lemony scent that you might appreciate, while the silver dollar eucalyptus resembles the baby blue to the point that, in the eyes of a novice, they might be quite difficult to tell apart.

How do I plant a eucalyptus?

Before planting a eucalyptus, you should know the correct time to do this. If you are going to grow the eucalyptus from seed, you should plant the seeds two-and-a-half to three months before the last frost in spring.

If you live in a place with very cold winters, you can do this in your nursery or greenhouse, but make sure to transplant your eucalyptus the moment the frost has passed in the spring.

Picking the correct spot to plant your eucalyptus is also important. Make sure the planting site is a spot with good drainage, and where the plant will get plenty of sunlight.

Make sure you leave enough space around each potential plant that they do not crowd each other. There should also be no shrubs or trees around where the seedlings are going to grow, because these would obstruct their light. If you are growing the plant indoors, make sure it gets sufficient light by placing it next to a window or using a grow light.

If you want to grow more than one eucalyptus tree, you should allow eight feet of space between them, and if the seedlings come from a nursery, make sure you plant them as deep as they were when they were growing in their original pot.

You should not need to place a stake or any other support next to the plant as it grows.

Eucalyptus care

Light requirements

Eucalyptus plants like lots of bright light, which makes growing them indoors quite challenging. If you choose to grow your plant indoors, it is best to keep it in the sunniest spot in your house. If possible, it should get bright, direct sunlight outdoors for at least half a day. One upside of a eucalyptus that has become used to limited light is that it will be more tolerant of low light conditions than a plant that has grown outdoors all its life.

During the winter, when natural sunlight can be a bit scarce, you might have to get a grow light to help your plant out. Of course, natural light is still the best choice, but if it is not an option, artificial light will suffice.

Watering requirements

Eucalyptus plants are able to tolerate longer periods without water than the typical houseplant. The only plants that can do better than eucalyptus in drought conditions are succulents like cacti.

The watering needs of eucalyptus growing in the ground, in an outdoor garden, will naturally be different from those of eucalyptus growing in a pot indoors.

Potted plants will lose moisture from their soil faster than those in garden beds, which means you will need to water them more frequently.

No matter where the plant is, however, you still need to allow the soil around its roots to dry out between waterings.

In the spring, you will likely not have to water a potted eucalyptus every day, but during the hottest days of summer, check the plant’s soil every day in case the intense heat and light dry out the soil more quickly.

Always take into account the weather, season, and climate where you live.

Do not underwater your eucalyptus, because this can cause the leaves to dry out and become pale and shriveled, and even watering it will not save the dried-out leaves. These leaves are dead and you can either wait for them to fall off the plant or pick them off yourself.

If the rest of the plant is still green and healthy, you can expect it to make a full recovery. Just make sure you pay more attention to its watering needs going forward so that it does not happen again.

Another thing to avoid is overwatering. This plant likes moist soil, but it should never be soggy or waterlogged. If your eucalyptus is constantly standing in soggy soil, the roots can drown and die and this can lead to root rot.

Root rot is when the roots that have died from overwatering become susceptible to opportunistic fungal or bacterial pathogens in the soil. These pathogens can make them rot in the roots more aggressively and cause them to spread faster to the rest of the plant. Soon the rot will reach the stems and leaves, and the plant can die. 

To avoid overwatering, use a loose, well-draining potting mix for your plant. You can either use a potting mix or regular potting soil with fine moss or coco coir.

If you suspect root rot in your plant, you will need to repot it. Remove the plant from its old pot and wash off as much soil as you can from the roots. Be gentle while doing this, because the roots are very fragile in this state.

Inspect all of the roots and remove any that are brown or black, because those are rotten. Use a sterile knife or scissors to prune them off until only healthy, white roots remain.

Lay the plant on some dry paper towels to let the roots air-dry for a few hours. 

Prepare a new pot for the plant by filling it with a well-draining potting mix and place the plant in the middle. Cover the roots with the rest of the potting mix and place the plant where it can get lots of bright, direct light for several hours a day.

Avoid both overwatering and underwatering by making sure you only water the plant when the top two inches of soil around the roots are dry to the touch.

Adjust the volume and frequency of watering according to changes in the weather, season and climate.

Temperature requirements

The eucalyptus is only hardy to zones 8-11, which means it does not do well in places that have harsh winters. Temperatures lower than 32 degrees Fahrenheit for extended periods of time can be dangerous for the plant, and it is imperative that you take it indoors when you expect low temperatures to persist.

The temporary spot to which you move the plant should still have lots of light and should not be too dry. Make sure you place it near a bright window, or if that option is unavailable, purchase a grow light for the plant. If the room is too dry, you might need to mist the plant every day to increase the humidity around it. You can also keep it near other plants that like humidity, so that together they create a microclimate around each other. Another option is a water pebble tray: place the pebble tray filled with water under the plant’s pot and, as the water evaporates from the tray, it will moisten the soil in the pot as well as the plant’s leaves.

If you can afford to, you can always buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

Fertilizer 

The best time to fertilize the plant is during its growing season in the spring. Do this every other week to keep your plant happy and healthy. Use a fertilizer high in potassium but low in nitrogen and phosphorus. You should not fertilize the plant in the colder months; this can lead to soil toxicity because the plant is not actively growing and will not use up all the nutrients and minerals that you keep putting into the soil.

If the plant’s leaves are wilting and you do not know what is causing it, look back on how you have been fertilizing it, because this might be the reason. You can get rid of excess nutrients and minerals from the soil by flushing it out with water.

Pruning and repotting a eucalyptus plant

This plant grows quickly, so it does need to be pruned and repotted fairly often. Simply cut off the tips of the stems to control any unruly patches. Make sure the knife or scissors you use are sterile. You can also control unruliness by planting a stake in the middle of the pot to guide the plant’s growth in a certain direction.

Pruning and repotting is best done in the spring because this is when the plant is actively growing and it will recover faster from the trauma of this process.

Repotting usually needs to be done every couple of years. You need to use fresh soil and choose a new pot one size bigger than the old one. Do not use a pot that is too large, as it will need more soil to fill it. More soil means more moisture is retained, and this can increase the chances of overwatering and root rot.

Conclusion

No, eucalyptus plants are not succulents; they are evergreen shrubs and trees native to Australia and parts of Southeast Asia. They can tolerate drought to a certain extent, but not to the degree that succulents can.

They do not do well in cold temperatures, so they can only really grow as indoor plants in parts of the US that have harsh winters.

Eucalyptus plants like bright, direct light, water when the top two inches of soil are dry, temperatures higher than 32 degrees Fahrenheit, fertilizer during their active growing phase, pruning when the leaves and stems become unruly and repotting every couple of years when they become rootbound.

Image: istockphoto.com / Luis Echeverri Urrea

When watering a cactus, it is advisable to do so from the bottom rather than the top. Cacti are desert plants that are designed to get their moisture more from the soil below and not so much from above, and that means they are not used to getting their foliage wet. In fact, wetting the leaves of a cactus can encourage fungal growth which could lead to stem rot.

Bottom watering is a better method because it helps the cactus to develop stronger roots by encouraging them to grow and spread in the direction of the moisture. Overhead watering only really gets the top layers of the potting mix wet and does not always reach all of the roots.

In this article, we will discuss the proper way to water a cactus, so keep reading to learn more.

Do you water your cactus from the top or bottom?

Experts recommend that you water your cactus from the bottom, because top watering does not always properly saturate the soil and therefore may not reach all of the roots. If you pour water from the top, the water may trickle through the soil and convince you that the soil is properly wet, even if only the top layers of soil are getting any water. You might have been unknowingly underwatering your plant for weeks or months! 

Cacti need their potting mix to be completely soaked every time you water them so that all the roots can absorb sufficient water.

Watering from the bottom ensures that even the roots nearest the bottom of the pot get their fair share of water and, because all of the soil is well-soaked, you will not have to water the plant as often.

If you want to save time and water, you can place multiple plants to soak in the sink at the same time.

How do I water my cactus from the bottom?

The first thing is to get the timing right, because knowing exactly when to water your plant will avoid any problems related to over- or underwatering. It is best to first check the moisture level of the soil by sticking your finger about two inches into the top of the soil. If the soil in the pot feels dry, you need to water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Fill a large bowl or your sink with water, to a level that will reach about a third of the height of the plant’s pot. If there are pebbles and drainage rocks in the bottom of the pot, the water level should be a little higher to reach the soil.

If you are using cactus or succulent soil that has lots of draining components like perlite, you will need to give the plant more time in the water because this kind of potting medium does not absorb water as fast as regular soil.

The important thing is to have enough water in the sink that the plant is not underwatered.

Slowly lower the pot into the sink or bowl. If the plant is still in a grow pot, it might be too light and the plant could tip over in the water, in which case keep an eye on it for a few minutes to make sure the pot stays upright.

Once you are sure that the pot will not tip over, leave it in the water for 10 minutes and then check on the progress. You will know the soil has been sufficiently watered when the top layer of soil has become moist.

If, after 10 minutes, the top of the soil is still quite dry, remove the pot from the water and just water the top layers of the soil manually.

After 10 minutes of soaking, drain the remaining water from the sink or bowl and leave the plant to stand so that any excess water can drain out.

The best kind of water to use for your plant is filtered or distilled water. If you can avoid it, try not to use tap water because the chlorine in tap water can build up in the soil and damage the plant’s roots in the long run.

Bottom watering is best for small- to medium-sized cacti because their size makes them easy enough to move around and place in your sink.

How often do I need to water my cactus?

Even if you know how to properly water your cactus, it will still be for naught if you do not know how often you should be watering it.

Cacti are some of the most hardy and resilient houseplants and, because they can store water in their bodies, they can go several weeks without being watered. Despite not requiring frequent watering, however, you cannot neglect them willy-nilly. Cacti are also susceptible to the effects of underwatering if you leave it too long. If you can see that the potting medium is dry to the touch and if the cactus itself looks dry with brown or crisp leaf tips, it could be severely dehydrated.

One of the factors to take into account with regard to watering frequency is whether the cactus is in a pot or growing in the ground. Also take note of the amount of light it is getting, the temperature where the plant is kept, and the humidity level.

The most important thing to remember is never to let the soil become soggy or waterlogged. because a cactus will not survive for long in such conditions. The soil in the pot needs to be porous and loose enough that it drains well and quickly. 

Dense, compact soil will retain too much water and can lead to root rot, a condition caused by prolonged exposure of the plant’s roots to waterlogged soil. Cacti need their roots to be able to dry out between waterings, otherwise they cannot absorb oxygen and will drown and die. The dead roots will become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens, such as fungi and bacteria, which will cause the rot to spread even faster to the rest of the plant and may even kill it eventually.

How can I salvage an overwatered cactus?

If you think your cactus has been overwatered, you need to stop watering it immediately. Move it to a sunny spot where it can get lots of light and do not water it again until the soil in the pot has dried out completely.

If the cactus’ leaves have already turned pale yellow, and if some of them feel soft and mushy to the touch, you need to consider the possibility of root rot. To confirm this, you will have to uproot the plant. Remove it from its pot and wash off as much soil as you can from the roots. Do this gently, because the roots will be quite fragile in their current state.

After washing off the soil, inspect the roots closely for sections that have turned brown or black; these are rotten and will need to be removed. Use a sterile knife or pair of scissors to cut off the rotten roots, leaving only healthy, white roots behind. Then, lay the plant on a dry paper towel and let the roots air-dry for a few hours. 

Prepare a new pot that has drainage holes at the bottom and fill it two-thirds with well-draining potting mix. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more soil.

Do not water the plant yet; wait at least a week to give it time to recover from the trauma of repotting.

Conclusion

When watering your cactus, it is better to water the bottom than from the top.

Watering a cactus from the top will wet the foliage, which can encourage unwanted fungal and bacterial growth.

Water your plant from the bottom by placing the pot in a sink or bowl filled with water. The water will be absorbed through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot and the soil will be moistened from the bottom up.

Water your plant only when the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch. If the top layer of soil is still damp, wait one or two days and check it again.

Image: istockphoto.com / Sundaemorning

Orchids are popular houseplants that come in myriad varieties, with such a wide array of flowers that the average collector will never run out of options.

Watering these beauties has a reputation for being complicated and tricky, but as long as you understand the requirements of your specific variety, it will become easier as time goes by.

One of the most commonly asked questions by newbie orchid growers is whether you should water an orchid from the top or from the bottom.

The answer is both. Watering from either the top or the bottom is fine for an orchid, as long as you do it properly.

In this article, we will discuss the differences between these two watering techniques to help you figure out which one you prefer. So, if you wish to learn more about correctly watering your orchid, just keep on reading.

Do you water orchids from the top or the bottom?

An orchid can be watered either from the top or the bottom, as long as you do it correctly. Factors that will determine which method is best include the type of potting medium, temperature, humidity, and airflow.

Watering the orchid from the top

Watering your orchid with a stream of water from above is the simplest method. Take the plant and place it in your sink or shower, and either pour water onto the plant or turn on the faucet or shower to let the water stream into the plant’s pot until all of the potting medium is thoroughly soaked.

The temperature of the water is important; make sure it is lukewarm and not cold. Coldwater can shock your plant and damage it. Most orchids are native to warmer climates and are not naturally exposed to cold water.

After soaking the plant with water, allow any excess water to drain out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Watering from the top is best for orchids that are well-hydrated, so this method is great to use for normal watering situations. This method will also help clean the dust from the plant’s leaves and provide the aerial roots with moisture. The stream from the faucet or the shower can also be strong enough to knock off certain pests that may be lurking on the foliage.

After allowing the excess water to drain, you need to remove as much water as possible from the crown and leaves of the plant by turning it upside down and shaking it gently. This will dislodge any water that has collected in the leaves and crown that may otherwise cause rot. Crown rot can be caused by poor air circulation or stagnant water in the plant’s crown, both of which encourage the growth of rot-causing fungi.

If the plant is too big, or the pot is too heavy to turn upside down, you can also just blow on the plant to remove the water, or dry it gently with paper towels.

Make sure you place the plant in a spot where it can get lots of bright, indirect light and good air circulation.

Watering the orchid from below

Watering from below can also be used as your regular watering method. It is especially helpful if the potting medium has become very dry because you forgot to water it for a bit too long. Watering from the bottom will bring the water retention of the potting medium back to normal.

If the potting medium is either sphagnum moss or orchid bark and it becomes very dry, watering it from above might not be sufficient because it is difficult to get these materials properly wet after letting them dry out for too long.

To water from below, prepare a bowl of lukewarm water and place the orchid’s pot in the bowl. Leave it there for 15 to 30 minutes.

Contrary to popular belief, this will not cause your plant to rot. You are only leaving the plant in the water for half an hour as opposed to days, which is the time it would take to actually start developing rot.

If your orchid is very dry and dehydrated, you can even leave the pot to soak overnight. This can be repeated every week until you can see that the plant has completely recovered from dehydration.

Once the 30 minutes are done, take the plant from the bowl and let any excess water drain out before returning it to its original spot.

As long as you allow the orchid’s roots to dry out between waterings, watering it from below is completely fine and is a great option to consider.

Letting the rain water your orchid

During the warmer months, you can take your orchid outdoors and place it in a shady spot, like under a tree.

This way, the plant will be able to get fresh rainwater, which saves you the work of watering the plant. It will also get better air circulation outdoors, which it needs to grow well.

When the temperature drops to 55 or 60 degrees Fahrenheit, it can help trigger the plant’s blooming. Just keep in mind that, if the night-time temperature drops below 55 degrees Fahrenheit for an extended period of time, you may need to bring the plant back indoors.

If you keep your orchid in a smaller pot that you place inside a decorative pot without drainage holes, you will need to empty out the decorative pot after every rainfall so that the plant does not sit in excess water.

When do I water my orchid?

Ideally, you need to water your plant just as the roots or potting medium are about to dry out, but if you are not sure how to tell exactly when that is, a safer bet is just to wait for the potting medium to dry out completely. Remember that underwatering an orchid is better than overwatering it, because overwatering can cause rot which is the more serious problem.

It can be helpful to touch the sphagnum moss or orchid bark to feel whether it is still wet. If it is dry, water the plant, but if it is still even just a little bit damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

Another trick you can use to see if the orchid needs watering is to sharpen a pencil and stick the end into the potting medium. Wait a couple of minutes and remove the pencil. If the sharpened end of the pencil has darkened, that means that the potting medium still has some moisture and you do not need to water it yet. But, if the pencil is still the same color, it means the potting medium is dry and it is time to water the orchid.

If you do not have a pencil, bamboo or any wooden skewer will work just as well.

Also, be vigilant about the humidity where the plant is kept. If the humidity is low, the potting medium will dry out quickly and so will the aerial roots. In a humid environment, you will not need to water the orchid as often.

Can I use ice to water my orchid?

No, do not water your orchid with ice. As we mentioned, orchids are tropical plants and they do not like cold temperatures, including in the water that they are given.

As the ice melts, the cold water that reaches the roots may damage them.

Professional orchid growers do not use this technique, and they know a lot more about orchids than most of us do. 

If you leave a few ice cubes on top of the potting medium, it will not be enough to sufficiently moisten it. This method also encourages rot because the cold can kill the roots and leave them susceptible to pathogens that cause rot. It can even go as far as killing the entire plant if it is not treated immediately.

What are the most common orchid watering mistakes?

One of the most common watering mistakes made by orchid owners is giving the plant too much water. Orchids do not like their roots sitting in water for days on end; they need to dry out completely between waterings in order to absorb oxygen. Overwatering can lead to root rot, which can ultimately lead to the death of the orchid if not remedied in time.

Another mistake people often make when watering their orchid is doing so at night. Only water your orchid in the morning, because water given at night is more likely to stagnate in the plant’s growing tips and flower sheaths, and this can encourage the growth of fungi and bacteria.

When you water the plant in the morning, the sunlight helps to evaporate the water on the foliage so that it does not sit on the plant for too long. It is far preferable for the plant to be dry by the time evening comes.

Be observant of any changes in your orchid. In the growing season, if it is well-hydrated, it should have plump and fat pseudobulbs and its leaves close to the base should be thick.

If you are not sure whether your orchid needs water, it probably does not, so it is safer to hold off watering than to carelessly water it.

What are some factors that can affect orchid watering?

It may be intimidating to grow orchids as a beginner, but the longer you handle these plants, the easier it will become. You will develop a better instinct and sense of balance with regard to the plant’s growing requirements.

One of the main factors that affect the watering of your orchid is the potting medium that you use. If you are using bark nuggets, these tend to hold moisture for longer than clay pellets or charcoal. So, the longer the medium holds water, the less often you will need to water it.

In the same sense, if your orchid is mounted, it will be exposed to more air and will dry out much faster than a potted orchid.

There are thousands of species of orchids, and it is safe to assume that they all have different watering preferences, so it is important to research the type of orchid you are growing. If you are new to orchids, limit your collection to one or two species at first so that you do not become confused about how to water them.

The temperature of the room or the place where the orchid is kept is also important because higher temperatures will dry out the potting medium faster.

Orchids love fresh air because most species are epiphytic and have aerial roots that can absorb moisture from the atmosphere. Do not be afraid to expose your plant to some good airflow; as long as the wind is not too strong, the plant should be fine.

Conclusion

You can water your orchid both from the top and from the bottom. Watering from the top is the easier and most commonly used method of the two. Simply place the plant in the sink or shower and let the water flow through the leaves and into the potting medium until it is soaked. This method can also clean the dust off the leaves and knock off any pests. Make sure to let the excess water drip out and to shake or dry off any water that has pooled in the orchid’s foliage.

If watering from the bottom, place the plant’s pot in a bowl of water and the potting medium will absorb moisture through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Leave the plant in the water for about 30 minutes, after which let the excess water drain before returning the plant to its original spot.

Both methods are effective, but watering from the bottom is especially effective if the plant or the potting medium is very dehydrated.

You will know the orchid needs watering if the potting medium has dried out. Touch the potting medium with your fingers, and if the top two inches are dry to the touch, water the plant. If the potting medium is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

If you do not want to stick your finger into the potting medium, you can also poke it with a sharpened pencil or a wooden skewer; if the pencil or skewer darkens in color, that means the potting medium is still moist.

Image: istockphoto.com / Maryviolet