Audrey Woods

Cacti are hardy, drought-tolerant plants, perfect for novice gardeners looking to add to their low-maintenance collections. 

They come in all different shapes and sizes and are very easy to grow and care for. However, this does not mean that cacti do not have their share of common problems.

One of the most common problems observed by cactus owners is white spots appearing on the plant. If a cactus has white spots on it, the most probable reasons are fungal infections or pests.

In this article, we will discuss the common causes of white dots on a cactus and how to resolve each one. So, if you are experiencing this problem with your cactus and you wish to learn more, just keep on reading.

Why are there white dots on my cactus?

Fungal infection

The first possible reason your cactus has white dots on it is because of fungi. This is commonly observed in cacti that grow in damp or humid conditions.

Cacti are desert plants, used to growing in dry, arid environments, so if they are kept in a wet or humid environment they are completely out of their element. These conditions are also conducive to fungal growth.

Mold will start to grow on the surface of the cactus and, the longer the infection is left untreated, the more damaged the affected areas will become. The parts that are covered in mold or fungi will also feel soft.

White spots caused by fungal growth may not kill your cactus, but they do alter the aesthetic of the plant, causing yellowing of the affected areas and stunted growth.

Other than mold, white spots on the surface of a cactus can also be powdery mildew. Powdery mildew also develops in wet and humid conditions, and the more the mildew spreads, the more the foliage turns yellow and becomes deformed.

Remedy

If you suspect a fungal infection in your cactus, the first thing you need to do is to take the plant to a different room, away from your other plants. These infections are very contagious and quarantining the affected plant can avoid the spread of the fungus.

Use a sterile knife or pair of scissors to cut off the infected cactus parts. Dispose of these cuttings properly; you do not want to accidentally leave them near your other plants. Clean your gardening tools with rubbing alcohol after using them on the infected plant.

You can use a commercially available fungicide on your plant, but if you do not want to use chemicals, you can also spray it down with a neem oil solution.

Mix two tablespoons of neem oil into a spray bottle of water and spray the solution on the entire plant. Repeat the process once a week for as long as necessary until the cactus has recovered.

Pests

Pests that attack cacti can also be the source of white spots on your plant.

The most common bugs observed on cacti are scale insects and mealybugs.

At first glance, clusters of these insects will look like fuzz from mold. This fuzz is white and cottony, and it acts as a protective barrier for the pests.

Scale insects are covered in this white fuzz but they are actually brown-colored insects. They suck the sap from the body of the cactus, drying it out. These bite marks will also leave white or yellow spots on the surface of the cactus.

Mealybugs, on the other hand, are smaller than scale insects and also produce a white fuzz to hide under as they feed on the cactus’ juices.

Mealybugs take about two weeks to develop from egg to nymph, and after four weeks as nymphs they become mature mealybugs. It takes no time for these bugs to reproduce, and you might have a hard time catching the infestation in its early stages because they are so small.

If you do not keep a close eye on your cactus, the infestation can grow extensively and the foliage will become deformed and yellow.

Remedy

If you suspect that your cactus has pests, take it to a different part of the house immediately so that the infestation does not spread to your other plants.

This is especially true for mealybugs, which are not discerning when it comes to the plants they attack and consume. They will happily hop from one plant to another to feed on them.

You can spray the above mentioned neem oil solution on the infested cactus, or even use it as a preventative measure to protect it from mealybugs.

If the infestation is spreading very quickly, repotting the plant can help.

If you are able to catch the infestation in its early stages, you can use a pair of tweezers to literally pick the mealybugs from the plant one by one.

You can also use rubbing alcohol to kill the pests. Take a cotton ball, soak it in alcohol, and wipe down the cactus. This process may take some time because you have to actually look for the bugs to kill them with the alcohol. You should also be careful not to prick yourself on your cactus if it has spines.

Check the base of the plant near the soil, because pests like to hide from danger in the nooks and crannies there. If your cactus has leaves, check under them as well as in the leaf joints because these are a favorite hiding place for pests.

For mealybugs, remove the top layer of the soil in the pot because they may be hiding where they often lay their eggs, which is in this layer of soil. Discard this soil properly and do not reuse it for other plants.

If the white fuzz produced by these pests is on the roots, you might need to wash the roots with water and spray them with pesticide before replanting the cactus in a fresh potting mix.

Wipe the plant down with rubbing alcohol every day for a week to make sure that all the bugs are dead. Try not to miss a day, because it only takes these bugs a short time to effectively reproduce.

Another homemade insecticide you can use against scale insects and mealybugs is a solution of one tablespoon of mild dish soap to a liter of water.

Take your infested plant to the sink or the shower and apply the soap and water solution on the cactus. Rinse the soap off with water.

Do not let the water stay on the foliage. Dry the cactus with some paper towel and place it in a pest-free spot where it can get lots of light.

Repeat the soap-and-water process every three days until you can no longer see any bugs on the plant.

Another method of getting rid of mealybugs is by using beneficial insects such as lacewings and ladybugs. This is a good option for cacti that are grown outdoors.

These beneficial insects can be bought from breeders that specialize in them, and having them around can help take care of smaller infestations before they become full blown.

How long should I keep a cactus quarantined?

Just to be sure, keep the cactus in isolation for at least three weeks after completing the treatment. This gives you enough time to observe whether there are any more bugs remaining on the plant. It is possible for pests to hide for a few weeks and then come out of hiding to reproduce, so three weeks after treatment is a long enough period to catch any bugs that might have survived the treatment.

Conclusion

Cacti are low-maintenance houseplants that come in all shapes and sizes. They are great plants for novice gardeners who are scared of plants that require too much attention, because cacti can survive drought and neglect for weeks.

This does not mean that cacti are invincible, however. These plants have their share of problems, one of which is the appearance of white spots on their foliage.

The most probable causes of these white spots are fungal infections or pests.

You can treat fungal infections by cutting off the infected parts of the cactus and wiping it down with rubbing alcohol or spraying it with a neem oil solution.

For pests, you can use a soap and water solution, rubbing alcohol, neem oil solution or beneficial insects.

Image: istockphoto.com / Engin Ozber

Cacti are mostly known to be a rich green color, but they can also come in pink, yellow, orange or red, depending on the species. A cactus that has turned black, however, may signal a serious issue that should be addressed right away.

If your cactus has turned black, the most common culprit is often a bacterial or fungal infection. Often, such infections are irreversible and there is almost nothing you can do to save your plant.

However, if you are not ready to let your cactus go, you may still be able to save it, especially if you caught the disease in its early stages. Here, we will explain the most likely reasons your cactus has turned black, as well as what you can do to revive it.

Why has my cactus turned black

Root rot due to too much water

Healthy roots matter a lot to the health of your cactus. If the roots are damaged, it becomes difficult for the plant to absorb all the nutrients it needs to survive. Unfortunately, it is all too easy for a cactus’ roots to rot when it receives too much water.

Succulents like cacti are designed to thrive in the desert, where access to water is very limited. That is why these plants do not like to be watered very often. When the soil is too wet or soggy, then the roots will start to rot and cause your plant to turn soft and mushy. Soon, your cactus will struggle to absorb proper nutrition and oxygen, causing it to gradually turn black.

If overwatering is not the issue, then you may need to check the quality of your soil mix. In general, succulents prefer airy and well-draining soil. If your soil is too dense or has become compacted, it will be difficult for the water to drain and the soil will become soggy.

A container with no drainage holes can also hold too much water and soak the roots. Standing water, for any reason, is bad for succulents and can have the same effect as overwatering.

Drastic changes in temperature

Succulents are highly resilient and can survive unattended for a certain period of time. However, your cactus will not thrive in extremely cold climates, since it is more attuned to hot weather areas. Exposing it to such cold even for a few hours may cause it to start turning black.

The reason for this is that the plant’s surface tissue is highly sensitive to cold temperatures. This drastic drop in temperature will slowly kill the plant tissue, hence the appearance of black spots. 

Scale Insects

Pests, in general, are not great for succulents, particularly scale bugs as they can wreak havoc on your cactus. This type of pest causes damage to your plant by leaving behind a honeydew-like substance that can become a breeding ground for black sooty mold. If not dealt with right away, the mold can spread rapidly to the body of your cactus and turn it black.

Fortunately, there are effective ways to stop these pests from harming your plant. These solutions are discussed in detail in the next sections.

Crown rot

Crown rot on a cactus can be as dangerous as root rot. It is caused by a type of soil-borne fungus that can affect not just cacti but almost any type of plant, including trees, vegetable crops, and shrubs. Heavy and moist soil provides favorable conditions for this fungus to thrive, and although cacti prefer dry and airy soil, they are not totally immune to the disease.

The infection is almost always subtle in the beginning. A healthy-looking cactus may already harbor the infection undetected. The issue only becomes obvious when the cactus starts turning black, at which point the damage is often already too much.

Unfortunately, there is almost nothing you can do to save your cactus once it has caught the disease. You can try pruning the affected stems or transferring the cactus to fresh soil, but this is not always a guarantee that your plant will survive.

Bacterial necrosis

Bacterial-related diseases may also be responsible for turning your cactus black. Just like fungal disease, a bacterial infection can go unnoticed for some time until the damage is too far gone, manifesting as tissue discoloration on your plant.

Bacterial necrosis is one particular type of bacterial disease that only affects certain species of cactus, namely the cholla, barrel cactus, saguaro cactus, organ pipe cactus, and the prickly pear. So, if you are growing other houseplants, you need not worry about it spreading and can focus your attention on your cacti.

So what causes bacterial necrosis? The Erwinia species of bacteria trigger the onset of the disease, which enters the plant through branch and trunk wounds, which later develop into necrotic pockets. These pockets are composed of dead plant tissue and provide a breeding ground for the infection to spread throughout the cactus.

Some cacti, like the saguaro cactus, can develop cork-like, patchy spots on their skin in an attempt to heal themselves. However, these corky areas can further damage any healthy tissue remaining on the cactus, turning it black. This rotting tissue may also crack and release a dark brown fluid.

Fortunately, bacterial necrosis is treatable. The earlier you catch the disease, the higher the chance your cactus will survive.

Phyllosticta pad spotting

Phyllosticta pad spotting is a type of fungal disease that affects not only the cactus but also other common houseplants like orchids, aloes, and agaves. Your plants can become infected by these pathogens via air or water.

Once the infection starts, it can take at least six weeks to see visible symptoms. The disease will not make the cactus turn black; instead, it will develop purplish circular spots. If untreated, these spots will then transform into diamond shapes. The lesions will continue to grow until they are big enough to cover the entire cactus, making it appear black.

What you can do to save your cactus

Despite being highly resilient plants, cacti can still be susceptible to many issues, which may be due to environmental conditions or a lack of proper care. A cactus that has turned black is an obvious sign that your plant is crying for help. Depending on the problem, you might still be able to return your cactus to its former health with the appropriate solutions.

Do not overwater you plant

Overwatering is something that most succulents hate, as it cripples the plant’s root system, causing dehydration. Waterlogged soil not only hurts the roots but also creates a favorable environment for bacteria and fungi to grow.

So, if your cactus has turned black, it is best to check first for rotten roots. If that is the case, trim off the affected roots and transfer the cactus to a new pot with sufficient drainage holes. Also, make sure that the soil mix is light and well-draining. 

Avoid underwatering

Cacti are not totally zero-maintenance plants. Simply forgetting to water your plant for extended periods can cause the soil to become dry and crumbly. This will slowly kill the roots and prevent the plant from absorbing nutrients.

Before the soil completely dries out, make sure to water it to prevent dehydration. If the soil is too dry, give your plant less water but more regularly and see if it responds. If it does not recover, it is better to repot it in fresh soil.

Keep the cactus pads dry

Some owners may be tempted to mist their cacti as a way to hydrate their plants. However, this practice can create a perfect breeding ground for bacteria and fungi. Soil-borne fungi can spread to the stems and pads, causing the cactus to weaken and turn black.

To protect your plant from various diseases, make sure that the stem and pads are dry. Do not place the cactus near a water source or in areas with too much humidity. 

Keep your cactus warm during winter

If you are growing your cactus outdoors, never forget to take it inside before the cold arrives. A sudden drop in temperature can injure the skin of the cactus, even if it is exposed for just a few hours. 

If the cactus has already started turning black due to frost damage,  place it in a warm room with a temperature of 75 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Monitor it for a couple of days, and you should see the black spots start to disappear on their own.

Cut down on fertilizer

Too much fertilizer, especially those rich in nitrogen, can be bad for your cactus. Never be tempted to over-fertilize, especially during winter when the cactus is dormant. Just use a small amount to boost your plant during its growing season. 

Trim off any infected areas

Bacterial and fungal diseases, such as bacterial necrosis and crown rot, may be difficult to treat, especially if they have already spread throughout the body of your cactus.

But there may still be hope for your cactus if the lesions are only covering a small area. Simply cut away the infected parts with a sterilized knife. Make sure to remove more than what appears to be infected, to avoid any reinfection. Trimming off the infected parts is also highly recommended before applying any treatments. 

Monitor your plant to see if it responds well. If not, you may need to accept the fate of your cactus and start all over with fresh cuttings.

Treat fungal and bacterial infections

Bacterial and fungal diseases are treatable as long as you can catch them in their early stages. 

For bacterial necrosis, the only treatment may be to trim off the infected branches using a sharp, sterilized knife. However, the bacteria may still be present in the soil, so there is a chance that you might not save your plant. If your cactus has been black for some time, the damage might already be irreversible.

If fungal disease is the culprit, a fungicide treatment may be able to revive your cactus. Fungal treatments work wonders by penetrating deep into the plant tissue to kill the disease-causing fungi. These chemicals are mostly safe and may even help eradicate certain pests on the plant, too.

Some of the most effective fungicide sprays and treatments include:

• Southern Ag – Liquid Copper Fungicide – Fungicide
• BIOADVANCED 701287A 3-in-1 Insect, Disease, and Mite Control for Plants, 32-Ounce, Ready-to-Spray
• Bonide (BND148) – Infuse Systemic Disease Control, Fungicide Concentrate (16 oz) 

Use neem oil to remove pests

If you have noticed bugs feasting on your weakened cactus, you will want to get rid of them as soon as possible to prevent further damage. The best remedy for these pests is to apply to rub alcohol on the affected areas. Dip a cotton bud or q-tip into the alcohol and gently wipe off any bugs you see on the branches. Then spray the cactus with neem oil once weekly at night.

Lastly, do not forget to keep your infected cacti away from other plants to prevent the pests from spreading. With the right treatments, your cactus should be back to its normal, healthy condition in no time.

Final thoughts

A cactus turning black is the plant’s way of crying for help. If caught early, you might still be able to do something to revive the plant and prevent any further damage.

Hopefully, all of the solutions we have presented will help you save your cactus and enjoy it for a longer time. Prevention is still better than cure, though, so try to make sure that your cactus receives the appropriate care and attention.

Image: istockphoto.com / photonewman

The many varieties of hoya are some of the most popular houseplants in the world right now. They have beautifully-colored leaves and flowers that can inject life and vigor into any space they are in.

They are also low-maintenance and do not require that much attention to thrive in an indoor setting. That said, these plants do still have their share of problems to which they may be prone.

One of these problems is when the plant’s leaves turn yellow. If a hoya’s leaves turn yellow, it means there is an environmental factor causing the plant stress, which should be addressed immediately.

The possible causes of yellowing hoya leaves are incorrect watering, improper lighting, poor water quality, temperature changes, fertilizer problems, lack of nutrients, and pests.

In this article, we will discuss each of these causes and how they can be fixed.

If you are currently experiencing this problem and you wish to learn more, just keep on reading.

Why are my hoya’s leaves turning yellow?

1. Incorrect watering

Giving your hoya too much or too little water will result in the plant’s leaves turning yellow.

Hoyas are native to tropical places, so they are used to having access to water every couple of days and do not take well to drying out.

Underwatering can happen when the plant’s watering needs are neglected or if the plant is kept in a place where its soil dries out faster than it should. Not only does the plant need moisture from the water; plants also use water to transport minerals and nutrients from the soil into the roots. Without these minerals and nutrients, the plant will be unable to feed itself. This results in the yellowing, wilting, and drying of the leaves.

Overwatering is an even worse mistake to inflict on your plant because it has more permanent effects and can even lead to the plant’s death.

When the plant’s soil is constantly wet, the plant will keep absorbing water until the cells in its leaves and stems rupture from all the excess water. This will manifest as yellowing leaves.

Eventually, the leaves will become soft and mushy, which is a symptom of root rot.

Root rot is a condition caused by extended exposure of the roots to waterlogged soil. The roots will have no access to oxygen and will therefore drown and die. The dead roots will become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens in the soil, and these will help the rot spread more aggressively to the rest of the plant.

By the time the rot has reached the stems and the leaves, it is usually too late to save the plant and you might have to throw it away.

Remedy

If you suspect that your hoya is underwatered, all you need to do is water it immediately. Soak all the soil in the pot with water and keep watering until excess water starts flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

If, on the other hand, you think your hoya may be overwatered, stop watering it and let the soil dry out completely. If the overwatered plant’s leaves have started to become mushy near the base, it might have root rot and you will need to check the roots to be sure.

Remove the plant from its pot and wash off as much potting soil as you can without damaging the roots.

Inspect the roots closely, looking for sections that have turned brown or black. These roots are rotten and will have to be removed. Use a sterile pair of scissors to cut away the rotten roots until only healthy, white roots remain.

Then, lay the plant on a dry paper towel and let the roots air-dry for several hours.

Prepare a new pot that has drainage holes at the bottom and fill it two-thirds with fresh potting soil. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more potting soil.

The best way to prevent both underwatering and overwatering is to know exactly when to water your plant. You will know that your hoya needs watering if the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch. If the top two inches of soil are still damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

2. Poor water quality

Another reason your hoya’s leaves are turning yellow could be that the water you are giving it is not ideal.

Tap water contains minerals that accumulate over time and turn into mineral salts in the soil, which can have adverse effects on the plant.

One of the signs of built-up mineral salts in the plant’s pot is the yellowing of its leaves and dark spots appearing on the plant.

These minerals can inhibit photosynthesis, which leads to the discoloration that you see. If the plant cannot photosynthesize, it cannot feed itself and will become stunted and possibly even die.

Remedy

Refrain from using tap water on your plant because it might contain fluorine and chlorine.

If you have no other choice but tap water, place it in a container and let it stand for at least one day to let the chlorine evaporate from it.

If you have the means, install a filtration system that connects to your tap so that you can remove the minerals from the water.

Or, if you can, collect rainwater and use this to water your plant. You can also use melted snow.

Also, make sure that the water you give your plant is neither too hot nor too cold.

3. Temperature changes

Íf you place your hoya in a spot where the temperature is constantly changing and reaching extremes, this could lead to the yellowing of its leaves due to stress.

These plants like temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and if the temperature around them drops below 65 degrees for long periods, this will cause them problems. If you are keeping your plant outdoors in the frost, ice crystals will form in the plant tissue and will disrupt photosynthesis.

Meanwhile, if the temperature around the plant is too high, the normal processes of the plant will cease to function, and the plant will sustain rapid water loss.

Either extreme temperature can also result in shallow root growth and reduced rooting.

Remedy

To stop the yellowing of hoya leaves due to temperature changes, you just need to place the plant in a spot where the temperature is stable and is not constantly changing.

Your plant might do well on your windowsill during the warmer months, but you may need to transfer it in the winter because the drafts that pass through the cracks around your windows will dry the plant out.

Do not place the plant near a heater or a radiator, because these warm drafts will also dry out its leaves.

Ideally, place a thermometer in the room where you keep the plant so that you are always aware of the temperature, and transfer the plant if it becomes either too hot or too cold in the room.

4. Fertilizer problems

We fertilize our houseplants because we want to help them reach their full potential and to keep them happy.

Unfortunately, too much fertilizer can cause a build-up of excess minerals and nutrients in the soil, and this can cause root burn. A hoya with root burn can also exhibit yellowing leaves.

This is due to the changes in the soil’s pH which can affect the plant’s ability to absorb nutrients from the soil.

Too much fertilizer can also encourage plant growth with poor root structure.

In severe cases of overfertilization, the plant may even die.

Remedy

If you think the cause of your hoya’s yellowing leaves is overfertilization, refrain from fertilizing the plant immediately and flush the soil in the pot. Do this using an amount of water five times the volume of the plant’s pot. Let the excess water flow out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot before returning the plant to its usual spot.

In order to prevent overfertilization, do not fertilize the plant during the cold months. This is because the plant is not actively growing during these months.

Fertilize only in the spring and summer, which is the plant’s active growing season.

5. Lack of nutrients

If your hoya is not getting the nutrients that it needs to function properly, this can also lead to yellowing leaves.

Hoyas need magnesium, potassium, and nitrogen to live, and if there are low levels of these nutrients in the soil, this causes stunted growth and even deformity of the leaves.

Remedy

In order to fix a nutrient deficiency, you need to replace the nutrients your hoya is lacking.

This can be achieved by fertilizing it correctly, placing it where it can get lots of bright, indirect light, and watering it according to its requirements.

6. Pests

Another reason your hoya’s leaves are turning yellow could be a pest infestation.

The most common pests observed on hoya plants are scale insects, mites, mealybugs, aphids, moths, gnat, and thrips. The first three on the list are more common in indoor plants, while the last four are more often seen on outdoor plants.

These insects cause yellowing leaves when they bite into and suck the sap from the plant’s foliage. They also secrete honeydew on the leaves which encourages the growth of mold.

This mold can be thick and obstructive enough to inhibit photosynthesis, hence the further yellowing and wilting of the leaves.

The longer the infestation is left unchecked, the more stunted the plant will become, and it may eventually die.

Remedy

If you see any pests on your hoya, you need to remove them as soon as possible.

You can wipe the leaves down with a cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol. Make sure you wipe both sides of the leaf.

You can also place the plant in the shower and let the stream of water knock the pests off the leaves and stems.

If the infestation is large and the above methods do not work, you might have to remove the affected leaves and stems using a sterile pair of scissors. Dispose of the debris properly.

You can also spray an insecticide on the plant. Do this in the late afternoon so the wet leaves do not burn under the sun.

Alternatively, you can make a neem oil spray by mixing two tablespoons of neem oil into a spray bottle full of water and spraying the solution onto the affected areas.

Repeat your chosen treatment once a week for as long as necessary, until all of the pests are gone.

If there are too many pests and the damage is too severe, you might have to discard the plant and start anew. In this case, bury the plant in the ground. Never throw it in the compost because you might end up infecting your other plants.

Conclusion

Hoyas are popular, low-maintenance houseplants that have beautiful foliage and flowers that add color to any indoor space. They are great starter plants because they are relatively easy to care for.

One of the most common problems experienced by hoya owners is the yellowing of their plants’ leaves.

The most common causes of yellowing hoya leaves are incorrect watering, improper lighting, poor water quality, temperature changes, fertilizer problems, lack of nutrients, and pests.

Image: istockphoto.com / Giovani Dressler

The bunny ear cactus is one of the more popular indoor cacti, its adorable name pertaining to its distinctive shape.

This cactus is perfect for beginner collectors because it is easy to care for and makes a great addition to your interior decor.

One of the most common problems encountered by bunny ear cactus owners is when their plant turns white.

The possible causes of a bunny ear cactus turning white are insufficient sunlight, too much sunlight, corking, fungal infection, frost damage, too much fertilizer, improper watering and chemical exposure.

In this article, we will discuss each of the possible reasons your bunny ear cactus is turning white, and how to fix each one.

If you are currently having this problem and you wish to learn more, just keep reading.

Why is my bunny ear cactus turning white?

1. Not enough sunlight

One of the most common reasons for bunny ear cacti to turn white is that they are not getting as much light as they need every day.

Remember that cacti, like all plants, need light to be able to photosynthesize and create chlorophyll. If they do not get enough light, they will lack this green pigment which is why they will slowly turn white or gray.

Cacti come from some of the sunniest places on earth, so they are used to growing under lots of bright light. 

Remedy

To fix this issue, simply transfer your bunny ear cactus to a place where it can get more light.

If the plant is kept outdoors but under the shade of a large tree, move it to another spot where it can get direct sunlight for a few hours a day.

If you are keeping the plant indoors, place it near a south-facing window. Normally, these windows let in light that is too harsh for most plants, but since cacti are desert plants that do well in full sunlight, they will do just fine next to a south-facing window.

If you live in an apartment that does not get a lot of light, or if you live in a place where the winters are dark, the plant might not be able to get enough natural sunlight. In that case, you can help the plant out by buying a grow light. Although natural light is always best, a grow light is a great alternative in times of need.

2. Too much sunlight

Even though the bunny ear cactus can tolerate direct sunlight better than most plants, this does not mean it should sit constantly under bright, direct sunlight. This could cause it to become crispy and white due to the sun’s UV rays burning it. 

Too much sunlight also causes rapid water evaporation from all parts of the plant.

Remedy

If your bunny ear cactus is turning white due to sunburn, relocate it to a different location where it will not get direct light for quite so many hours of the day. 

As the plant recovers, also make sure you give it sufficient water to help rehydrate it.

3. The plant is corking

Corking is a natural occurrence in cacti. It happens when the cactus has reached a certain age and is large enough that it requires firmer support in order to grow any further. The tissue near the base of the plant becomes firm and bark-like, turning pale gray or white, and this discoloration can spread about halfway up the plant.

Remedy

This is a completely natural thing to happen to a cactus, but if you do not like how it looks, you can always cut away the affected parts or start anew with another plant altogether.

You can tell that the cactus is corking by touching the discolored area. If the spot feels firm, then it is most probably just corking, but if the area is soft and mushy, the discoloration is due to something completely different.

4. Fungal infection

Another reason your bunny ear cactus is turning white maybe because it has a fungal infection. In this case, the discoloration is a sign of cactus erythema.

A fungal infection can affect any part of the bunny ear cactus, but it typically starts near the base.

The longer the infection is left untreated, the more soft patches start appearing between the joints of the plant. The joints are where the plant’s delicate tissue is located and these parts are the most sensitive.

Remedy

Take the affected cactus to a different room, far away from your other plants.

To treat a fungal infection, remove the affected areas using a sterile knife and dispose of them properly, then treat the remaining plant with a fungicide to kill any fungi left on the plant.

Mist the plant daily with fungicide and make sure the room where it is kept has good air circulation.

While the cactus is being treated, it should still get lots of light.

Prevent fungal infections such as cactus erythema by placing the plant in a spot with lots of airflow and making sure that its soil is never waterlogged.

Standing water is a fungus’ favorite environment, so refrain from overwatering your plant so as not to encourage fungal growth.

5. Frost damage

As mentioned above, the bunny ear cactus is a desert plant and does not do well in cold climates.

An environment where temperatures can drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can be harsh for this plant. It may turn white when exposed to frost and if ice crystals form on its needles and body.

You may be able to save the cactus if the exposure was temporary and you were able to bring it indoors immediately, but if exposed to frost for an extended period of time, the plant may die.

Remedy

If your bunny ear cactus is turning white because of frost damage, move it indoors and water it while exposing it to warm air. This is to try and bring the cactus back to life in a warmer environment.

If there are any dead branches on the cactus, prune them away using a sterile knife. This will allow the growth of healthy new branches unhindered by the dead ones.

While the plant is recuperating from frost exposure, make sure it is still able to get the amount of light that it needs every day, but do not overexpose it to too much sunlight.

After a few weeks of care, the frost-damaged plant should make a full recovery.

Prevent frost damage on your bunny ear cactus by taking it indoors even before the frost has begun.

The plant should still be watered to remain hydrated because winter air can be quite drying, especially to the soil in the plant’s pot.

If the plant is in the ground, protect it by placing mulch over the root area and insulating the entire plant with straw and burlap.

6. Too much fertilizer

Giving your bunny ear cactus too much fertilizer can also cause it to turn white.

Cacti do not typically need to be fertilized, because they can get most of what they need from their potting mix.

If you really want to help your plant out, fertilize it only once a year. If you fertilize more than once a year, then this is likely to be the cause of your problem.

Remedy

If you think you are overfeeding your bunny ear cactus, stop fertilizing it immediately.

You can get rid of excess minerals and nutrients in the potting mix by flushing them out with water.

If you still want to fertilize your bunny ear cactus, do it once a year at half the suggested concentration on the packaging. But usually, as long as you are using a cactus or succulent soil mix, the plant will have everything it needs to thrive without extra feeding.

7. Improper watering

Both overwatering and underwatering can cause the bunny ear cactus to turn white. Because this plant is succulent, it is sensitive to too much water. Succulents are able to store water in their bodies for use in times of drought.

An overwatered bunny ear cactus will turn white as it wilts and as the excess moisture evaporates from its body.

An underwatered bunny ear cactus will also turn white as its spines and stems shrivel from dehydration. It will also start to droop and dry out.

Remedy

If you have overwatered your bunny ear cactus, stop watering it immediately and allow the plant and its roots to dry out in a warm location with lots of light. Do not leave it out in direct sunlight, however, as a recovering cactus will be quite sensitive.

An underwatered bunny ear cactus will have to be watered immediately and generously. Water the soil in the pot until the excess water starts dripping from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Place the plant back in a spot with good light and only water it again when necessary.

There is no set schedule to follow when it comes to watering a bunny ear cactus. Rather, touch the soil in the plant’s pot with your finger. If the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch, water the plant, but if the top two inches of soil are still damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

8. Chemical exposure

Exposing the bunny ear cactus to certain chemicals, like ammonia or bleach, can also cause it to turn white.

Ammonia and bleach can be found in most households and the plant can get exposed to them if you accidentally touch it after handling the chemicals, or if you use a container to water it that has been contaminated with the chemicals.

Remedy

If you think that chemicals may have caused your bunny ear cactus to turn white, place it outdoors in the daytime and only bring it inside at night.

The time the plant spends outdoors will allow it to detoxify and the natural sunlight will also encourage photosynthesis, which makes it easier for the plant to get rid of the chemicals.

Wash the plant’s surfaces with warm water and soap and make sure you rinse it off well. This will help remove any chemical residues from the cactus.

Conclusion

The bunny ear cactus is a beautiful, low-maintenance cactus that has a distinctive shape, hence its name. It is a great starter plant for those that are just getting into cactus or succulent collecting.

One of the most common complaints among bunny ear cactus owners is that their plants are turning white.

The possible causes of this are insufficient sunlight, too much sunlight, corking, fungal infection, frost damage, too much fertilizer, improper watering, and chemical exposure.

The first step in fixing the problem is correctly identifying the cause so that the remedy will be straightforward and the issue resolved quickly.

Image: istockphoto.com / Emil Litov

An aptly-named plant, the string of hearts is a trailing vine with variegated and distinctly heart-shaped leaves that are at the crossroads of simplicity and elegance. However, certain factors at play could result in the yellowing of this plant’s beautiful foliage.

This Southern African native is succulent and shares in the common issues that plague others of its kind. The unwanted coloration is often seen in succulents that are overwatered, underwatered, overexposed to sunlight, or not in agreement with the ambient temperature.

Overwatering

The string of hearts requires well-draining, fertile soil to flourish. Enthusiastic succulent growers can, at times, be guilty of overzealous watering and, while this is done with the best intentions, much harm can come of it.

Ideally, these plants should receive a good amount of water which should drain well from the soil and out through the drainage holes at the base of the pot. An accumulation of water inside the pot will lead to root rot.

Root rot is a common outcome of overwatering. Soil that is too moist interferes with aeration and the roots are unable to take in oxygen and thus begin to rot. In addition, the excess moisture in the soil encourages the growth of fungi and bacteria that contribute to root rot.

As the roots can no longer absorb enough oxygen and nutrients, the plant begins to deteriorate and a clear indication of this is the foliage turning yellow. More than just aesthetically unpleasant, this symptom should compel you to take action and save your plant.

If you catch the problem before the root rot has set in, it is fairly simple. You will just have to hold back on watering your string of hearts and give the roots time to dry and recover from the excessive drink they had.

However, if there is already root rot, you have your work cut out for you. You will have to remove the plant from the pot and gently clean the roots. You can do this by washing them under running water.

The next step will be to prune away the affected roots. Additionally, you can treat the roots with a fungicide solution to eliminate any possible rot-causing pathogens. Repot the plant in fresh potting soil and, moving forward, only water it when the soil is dry. 

Underwatering

One of the most common reasons for the yellowing of leaves is underwatering. When the string of hearts’ water requirements are not met, it leads to dehydration which in turn manifests as the yellowing and wilting of the plant’s foliage. 

The “soak and dry” method is recommended as the best way to rehydrate your plant. This entails a generous watering of the plant, then refraining from watering again until the soil is dry. This would mitigate any watering-related harm to the plant as its requirements are met only when needed.

Overexposure to sunlight

The string of hearts requires bright, indirect sunlight to survive, and it cannot tolerate more than this. Direct sunlight can and will scorch its leaves. As the foliage is dried out by the sun, it will begin to turn yellow. Relocating the plant to a shadier area will save it from further sun damage.

Temperature

The string of hearts is native to Southern Africa, where temperatures are on the warmer end of the scale. When temperatures drop below 59 degrees Fahrenheit, the leaves will begin to turn yellow. Moving your plant indoors or into a greenhouse towards winter can prevent this.

Conclusion

The string of hearts is a beauty that requires a measure of care. If certain needs are not being met, its leaves will begin to turn yellow. Providing it with, by and large, the same conditions as in its natural environment will help it to flourish.

Image: istockphoto.com / Jobrestful

The mother of thousands plant, or Kalanchoe daigremontiana, is a unique succulent with an interesting look sure to catch the eye of any plant lover. 

Despite being very low-maintenance overall, this plant is susceptible to certain problems, one of the most common of which is drooping leaves.

If the leaves of your mother of thousands plant are drooping, it means that there is an environmental factor causing the plant stress. To fix the problem, you need to determine the exact cause so that you can be specific in your approach to fixing it.
In this article, we will discuss all of the possible causes of drooping mother of thousands leaves, and how to remedy each one. So, if you are currently encountering this problem and you want to learn more, just keep reading.

Why are my mother of thousands’ leaves drooping?

Not enough light

If the leaves of your mother of thousands are drooping or wilting, the most likely reason is that the plant is not getting as much light as it needs every day to thrive. 

Aside from drooping, this can also cause the plant’s stem to stretch and grow longer as it tries to grow in the direction of the closest light source. This is called etiolation, and does not necessarily harm your plant, although the elongated limbs will be thinner than normal and thus fragile and easier to break. The long limbs will also disrupt the overall symmetry of the plant, altering it aesthetically.

The mother of thousands likes anywhere between four to six hours of sunlight daily to avoid etiolation, and this can either be full or partial sunlight. 

To fix the problem of drooping leaves from insufficient light, simply move the plant to a spot where it will get the recommended number of sunlight hours each day.

If you keep the plant indoors, place it near a window that lets in lots of sunlight. If you live in a place where the winters can get quite gloomy and the plant will not have access to four hours of natural sunlight, you can always place it under a grow light. It will not know the difference between natural sunlight and a grow light; it is just light to the plant, no matter the source.

Overwatering

Another possible reason your mother of thousands’ leaves are drooping is due to overwatering.

This can stem from several causes. You may be giving the plant too much water every time you water it; you may be watering it more often than you should; you may not have adjusted your watering schedule according to changes in the weather or season; or the soil in the pot may not be sufficiently well-draining.

Any of these factors can lead to overwatering. Remember that the mother of thousands is a drought-tolerant succulent and can go several weeks without water, because it stores water in its leaves and stems to use during dry spells. 

This plant, when overwatered, will present with negative effects immediately, one of which is drooping leaves. The leaves will then turn yellow or brown and become soft and mushy.

An even more serious consequence of overwatering is root rot. This condition is the result of the plant’s roots standing in waterlogged soil for prolonged periods. Succulent roots need to be able to dry out between waterings so that they can absorb oxygen, which the plant needs to survive. If the roots are not able to dry properly between waterings, they will drown and die.

The dead roots will become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens such as fungi and bacteria, which will cause the rot to spread even more aggressively to the rest of the plant until the entire plant is affected and might die.

Remedy

If you think that your plant is overwatered, stop watering it immediately. If there are no obvious signs on the leaves aside from drooping, it might be enough to let the soil in the pot dry out completely and adjust your watering schedule going forward.

If you want to check the roots for rot, however, you can remove the plant from its pot and wash off as much soil as you can from the roots. Inspect the roots for parts that have turned brown or black; these roots are rotten and must be removed. Use a sterile knife to cut them off until only healthy, white roots remain.

Then, lay the plant on a dry paper towel and allow it to air dry for several hours.

Prepare a new pot and make sure it has drainage holes at the bottom. Fill it to about two thirds full with well-draining succulent potting mix and place the plant in the middle. Add more potting mix until all of the roots are covered.

You do not need to water the plant immediately; you should give the roots about a week to recover from the traumatic process of repotting.

After a week, water the soil only if the top two inches are dry to the touch. If the top two inches of soil are still damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

Transplant stress

Another reason your mother of thousands’ leaves are drooping could be transplant stress.

This stress can either be due to repotting or because you recently transferred the plant from one place to another.

If you have just brought the plant home with you from the store and you immediately place it in your outdoor garden, do not be surprised if the leaves become droopy over the next few days.

When the plant was growing in the nursery, it was living under ideal conditions. In your home, there are different lighting conditions, temperatures, humidity levels and watering schedules.

These changes in living conditions will cause the plant to become stressed, and this will present as drooping leaves.

Remedy

This is not something to worry about because, as the plant learns to adapt to its new surroundings, it will bounce back to normal. Just give it as close to ideal conditions as you can and it should be fine.

Why are my mother of thousands’ leaves curling?

Underwatering

The most common reason your plant’s leaves are curling is that it is not getting the amount of water it needs.

The leaves in this instance will be curling inwards and the plant will look dehydrated overall.

Succulents can survive well even if they are not given water for a few weeks, because they can store water in their leaves. However, that does not mean you can just forget about watering them all the time. They can still dry out completely and even die if they go without water for too long.

Remedy

Fortunately, it is much easier to fix an underwatered mother of thousands than it is to fix an overwatered one.

If you suspect that your plant has been underwatered, flood the dry soil in the pot immediately until you see excess water dripping from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Make sure all of the soil in the pot has been soaked so that all the roots can have access to water.

The curling leaves should perk back up a few hours after watering.

The best way to know whether your plant needs to be watered is to touch the soil in the pot. If the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch, water the plant, but if the soil is still slightly damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Pests

Another cause of curling mother of thousands leaves is a pest infestation.

The most commonly observed pests on the mother of thousands are scale bugs, aphids and mealybugs.

All of these bugs damage the plant and cause its leaves to curl when they feed on the sap from its leaves and stems.

A pest infestation becomes more apparent when there are brown patches or spots on the leaves. These are caused by the bites of the pests, where they suck the sap from the plant’s tissue.

Remedy

It may be tricky to catch an infestation in its early stages, because spotting just one or two bugs on your plant can be challenging. You may only really consider an infestation when the bug population is extensive and there is noticeable damage.

Move the infested plant to a different part of your house so that the pests do not spread to your other plants, and keep it separated until you are sure there are no pests left.

To get rid of the pests, you can either use a hose or a shower with a strong stream of water to knock them off the plant.

You can also put rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle and spray it directly on the bugs, or, if you have neem oil, mix two tablespoons of this into a spray bottle full of water and spray this solution directly on the bugs; it will kill them as well as their eggs.

No matter which method you use to eradicate the pests, repeat it once a week until all of the pests are gone.

In order to avoid full-blown infestations, make it a habit to check all of your plants for signs of pests every time you water them. The earlier in the infestation you catch the pests, the easier they will be to eradicate, saving you precious time and energy.

Why are the leaves on my mother of thousands dropping?

Most of the time, if you see the leaves on your mother of thousands dropping off, it is due to the natural life cycle of the plant.

In this case, the leaves drop off to make room for new, younger leaves, so do not worry if the leaves drop off one at a time, as this is a normal occurrence.

Mother of thousands care

The mother of thousands is relatively easy to care for, which is one of the reasons it is so popular. It is low-maintenance and can handle neglect for a few weeks and still survive.

This plant likes a potting mix that is well-draining and a pot with sufficient drainage holes to allow any excess water to flow out. Water the plant only when the soil in its pot is dry to the touch. 

The plant likes bright, indirect light, so keep it under the shade of a large tree, on your patio, or near a window if kept inside your house.

It likes to be in a dry area with low humidity and a temperature between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

If you want to propagate the plant, collect the plantlets that grow along the edges of the leaves or simply wait for them to drop off the leaf and self-root in the soil.

If you do not want any more of the plants and wish to control its growth, simply pick off the plantlets that have taken root around the mother plant.

Does the mother of thousands produce flowers?

Yes, the mother of thousands is a flowering succulent, but if you grow the plant indoors it might never bloom. An outdoor mother of thousands will produce clusters of small, pink flowers.

Is the mother of thousands toxic?

Yes, the mother of thousands is toxic to both cats and dogs, because it contains bufadienolides. If you plan on keeping the plant indoors, make sure you keep it in a high enough place that your pets or small children cannot reach it and accidentally ingest it.

The same can be said for keeping the plant outdoors. Place it in the center of your garden where it is out of your pets’ and children’s reach.

Is the mother of thousands an invasive plant?

Yes, this plant is fast-growing and can definitely be considered invasive. To help control its spread, pick off plantlets that grow at the sides of the mother plant so that they cannot grow into mature plants themselves.

Can I grow a mother of thousands in a terrarium?

Unfortunately, the mother of thousands does not make a good terrarium plant because it is quite invasive and will end up affecting the other plants in the terrarium.

This plant also releases a particular chemical that can negatively affect other plants near it and stunt their growth. Also, the terrarium setting is best for plants that like lots of humidity because the close proximity of the plants inside the terrarium creates a microclimate that the mother of thousands, which is a succulent, will not like.

Remember that succulents grow in some of the most arid places on earth, so they do much better in environments that are low in humidity.

Conclusion

The mother of thousands plant, or Kalanchoe daigremontiana, is a succulent with interesting looking leaves that can thrive as both an indoor or an outdoor plant.

One of the most common problems encountered by mother of thousands owners is drooping leaves. This is an indication that the plant is undergoing stress caused by an environmental factor, and the most common of these are not enough light, overwatering, and transplant stress.

The quickest way to fix the problem is to correctly identify the cause. The sooner you do this, the sooner you can treat the plant and the faster it will be able to bounce back to normal.

Image: istockphoto.com / photonewman

Peperomias are popular houseplants whose beautiful leaves can brighten up any interior space.

One of the most common problems encountered by Peperomia owners is the presence of brown spots on their plant’s foliage, which can greatly affect the overall aesthetic of the plant.

The most common causes of brown spots on a Peperomia are too much light, underwatering, overwatering, using the wrong kind of water, pests, diseases, temperature changes, humidity problems and fertilizer problems.

In this article, we will discuss more about each of these causes and how to remedy each one. So, if you are having the same problem and wish to learn more about it, just keep reading.

Identifying brown spots on Peperomias

The brown spots that indicate problems in a Peperomia do not have a uniform look. There are those that take up most of the leaf, while others are just tiny dots on the leaves’ surface.

The spots can appear on leaves that have gone soft and mushy, or on crispy and dry leaves.

The brown spots can also appear inflamed or raised on the surface of the leaves.

The spots can also appear on the stems of the plant, although they are most commonly observed on the leaves. 

Furthermore, if you do not see brown spots on the tops of the leaves, there may still be some present on the undersides.

Why are there brown spots on my Peperomia?

Too much light

Peperomias’ natural habitat is tropical rainforests. They grow on rotten wood or on the trunks of other trees and the only sunlight they get is that which penetrates the thick treetop canopy in the forest.

This dispersed light, then, is what Peperomia plants prefer when they are kept as houseplants.

If your Peperomia is grown outdoors or if it is placed near a window that lets in too much light, this can lead to its leaves getting scorched and the tips of the leaves will turn brown from sun damage.

Remedy

If too much sun exposure is what is causing brown spots on your Peperomia, you will need to transfer it to a different spot where it will only get indirect light.

If you keep the plant near a window, make sure that it is not a south-facing one because these windows generally let in too much light. If the only available window in your home is south-facing, you can try to diffuse the light by placing a sheer curtain over it.

Underwatering

Another cause of brown spots on Peperomia plants is when the plant does not get enough water.

The brown spots in this case are usually dried leaf-tips, and the leaves may also be drooping.

You can check whether your plant is underwatered by feeling the soil in the pot. Stick your finger about two inches deep into the soil. If the soil is dry at this depth, it means that the plant is probably not getting as much water as it needs.

Remedy

To fix this problem, water your plant immediately until you can see excess water dripping through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

In order to prevent underwatering your Peperomia in future, you need to be vigilant about its watering needs. Water it when the top inch of soil in the pot is dry to the touch, and never let the soil dry out beyond that.

Overwatering

If your plant gets more water than it needs, it can also lead to brown spots on the leaves. Overwatering can arise from giving the plant too much water every time you water it, watering it more frequently than you should, or not adjusting the watering schedule when the seasons change.

The cause of brown spots on an overwatered Peperomia is edema, which is a physiological occurrence caused by the plant taking in water faster than it can use it or get rid of.

Because of the water buildup, the pressure in the leaf tissue is increased. This causes the cells to rupture and brown spots are the result.

Another problem that stems from overwatering is root rot. This is a condition caused by the plant’s roots constantly standing in waterlogged soil, which eventually drowns them. The dead roots become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens, making the rot spread more aggressively to the rest of the plant until it eventually succumbs to the disease.

Remedy

The first thing you need to do if you suspect overwatering is to stop watering the plant immediately and allow the soil to dry out.

If you think your plant has root rot, you may also need to repot it.

To do this, remove the plant from its pot and wash off as much of the old potting soil as possible from the roots. Inspect the roots for sections that are brown or black; these are rotten and will need to be removed. Use a sterile knife to cut off the rotten roots until only the white, healthy roots remain.

Prepare a new pot that has drainage holes at the bottom and fill it with fresh potting soil. Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more soil.

Do not water the plant immediately, as the fresh potting soil should already be a bit moist.

You will know when you next need to water the plant by feeling the soil: if the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant.

Adjust the volume and the frequency of watering according to the climate where you live, the season of the year and the current weather conditions.

Using the wrong water

Another reason your plant has brown spots could be that you are using water that your plant does not like.

As we mentioned, this plant is native to tropical rainforests where there is abundant rainwater, and rainwater does not have a high mineral content like tap water does.

Peperomia plants are sensitive to the fluoride and chlorine in tap water, and if these minerals accumulate in the soil over time, it can lead to root burn which may present as brown spots on the plant’s foliage.

Remedy

The best and most affordable water to give your Peperomia is rainwater, but if you do not have access to rainwater, you can use purified or distilled water instead.

If you have no other choice but tap water, pour the water into a container and let it sit for 24 hours before using it to water the plant. This will give the fluoride and chlorine time to evaporate, and the water can then be used safely on your Peperomia and other houseplants.

Pests

Brown spots can also be caused by pests, and one of the most commonly observed pests on Peperomias is the spider mite.

This bug spins sticky webs all over your plant, and these are the tell-tale signs that you are dealing with this particular pest.

Spider mites pierce the plant’s leaves to suck the sap from them, and it is these bite marks that then become brown spots.

Remedy

The first step when treating a Peperomia for pests is to make sure you have quarantined it in a part of the house that is nowhere near your other plants, so that the infestation does not spread.

You can get rid of spider mites by washing the leaves with a steady stream of water that is strong enough to dislodge the pests.

Alternatively, you can just use a commercially available pesticide, which is effective but may not be a great option for those who do not like using chemical sprays for safety reasons.

Placing the plant under a running shower to simulate rainfall can also help wash away these bugs.

If you were able to catch the infestation in its early stages, you can simply wipe the spider mites off with a damp cloth.

Spraying rubbing alcohol directly on the mites can also be effective in killing them. 

Or, if you have neem oil at home, mix two tablespoons of this oil into a spray bottle of water, and spray the mites with the solution.

Whichever method you use, make sure you repeat the process once a week until all of the spider mites have been eradicated.

Disease

Disease can also be a cause of brown spots on your Peperomia. There are many diseases that can afflict the plant, and the sooner you can determine which one it is, the faster you will be able to treat it.

Peperomia diseases that cause brown spots include the following:

– Peperomia ringspot virus.

– A fungus known as Rhizoctonia leaf spot, which leaves mushy, dark-brown spots all over the plant.

– A fungus that leaves brown circles on the leaves is Phyllosticta leaf spot.

– Cercospora leaf spot is a fungus that causes raised brown or black spots on the underside of the leaves.

Remedy

If you suspect a disease to be the cause of the brown spots on your Peperomia plant, remove the infected leaves and stems using a sterile pair of scissors.

Make sure you dispose of these leaves properly so that they do not infect other plants.

Also ensure that all the plant’s healthy leaves are dry to discourage any further growth of fungi.

If you have a neem oil solution, spray the bottom of the leaves.

If it appears that every leaf on the plant is infected, you might be better off disposing of the entire plant and starting anew.

If you suspect a viral infection, you will unfortunately have to destroy the plant because there is no cure for viral diseases in Peperomias.

Temperature changes

Brown tips on the Peperomia’s leaves can be due to sudden temperature changes.

It could be that the interior of your home is too hot, or the plant is positioned too close to a heater or a radiator. The high temperatures will dry out the plant’s leaves very quickly, which is why they will turn brown.

Likewise, if you keep your Peperomia outdoors during the cold winters, or under air conditioners or in other spots in the house where it can get hit by cold drafts, this will also cause its leaves to turn brown.

Remedy

Whether the room where you keep your plant is too cold or too hot, the remedy is the same: move the plant to an area where the temperature is between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

If the plant is exposed to temperatures lower than 65 degrees or higher than 80 degrees for extended periods of time, it will experience temperature stress which is best avoided.

Make sure you keep the plant away from heaters, radiators, air conditioners and windows or doors that may let in cold drafts through their cracks.

Humidity problems

The Peperomia’s natural habitat is humid, so if you are keeping your plant somewhere that is too dry for it, its leaves will dry out and turn brown.

Peperomias generally do not need very high humidity, but this also depends on the species of Peperomia you have. Usually, the thicker the leaves of the Peperomia plant, the less sensitive it is to low humidity.

Remedy

If you live in a dry region, you might need to boost the humidity for your Peperomia.

The simplest way to provide humidity for the plant is to place it in a humid room in the house, such as the bathroom or the kitchen.

You can also mist the plant’s leaves once in a while to moisten them, or you can use a pebble tray. Place the pebble tray, filled with water, under the plant’s pot and as the water from the tray evaporates, it will moisten the leaves and the soil in the pot.

If you have other plants that enjoy a little humidity, place them close to the Peperomia so that they create a microclimate around each other.

Finally, if you have the means, you can also buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in your home.

Fertilizer problems

Peperomias do not really need to be fertilized. As long as the soil in their pot is rich enough, they will grow well. You can fertilize your plant if you want to give it a boost, but if you do this too much and too often, it can lead to a buildup of nutrients in the soil which can be toxic to the plant. Its roots will get root burn and this can also lead to the browning of its leaves.

Remedy

To fix a Peperomia that has been overfertilized, flush the soil with water to get rid of some of the nutrient buildup.

A Peperomia only ever needs to be fertilized three times a year at the most. You might need to dilute the concentration of the fertilizer compared with the package instructions.

Only fertilize the plant in its growing season, because this is when it will use the most nutrients from the soil.

You can also use organic fertilizer to lessen the possibility of root burn from mineral toxicity.

Conclusion

The Peperomia is one of the most popular houseplants because of its beautiful leaves and minimal care requirements.

One of the most common problems encountered by Peperomia owners is brown spots on the leaves and stems of the plant.

The most common causes of brown spots on Peperomia plants are too much light, underwatering, overwatering, using the wrong kind of water, pests, diseases, temperature changes, humidity problems and fertilizer problems.

Image: istockphoto.com / Muhammad Rayhan Haripriatna

Sedeverias are hybrids of Sedum and Echeveria species, and Sedeveria ‘Sorrento’ is a succulent coveted for its purplish leaves with green centers.

This succulent loves getting lots of direct sunlight and the colors of its leaves become a lot more vibrant and noticeable when it gets the amount of sunlight that it likes every day.

This plant is a great choice for people who are still starting their succulent collections and are looking for plants that are low-maintenance, easy to care for, adaptable to drought and moments of neglect, and easy to propagate.

In this article, we will discuss the care requirements of Sedeveria ‘Sorrento’, as well as how to properly propagate it.

Sedeveria ‘Sorrento’ care

Light requirements

Sedeveria ‘Sorrento’ can be grown as either an indoor or an outdoor plant, as long as it can get the light it needs. This succulent needs at least six hours of light every day for it to thrive.

The ideal is to grow this plant outdoors because it is happiest under full sun, and the more sun it gets, the more vibrant and beautiful it becomes.

If you have recently purchased your plant from a store or from a nursery where it was grown in a shadier environment, do not place it immediately in an open garden under direct sunlight. This can lead to the leaves getting sun-damaged.

You need to give the plant time to adjust to its new environment, so gradually give it more and more time in full sunlight every day. For a week, leave it out for an additional hour each day, until it has adapted to the intense light and it can then be left outside full time.

If you live in a place where the sunlight may be too intense and lasts for more than a few hours a day, you can place the plant under a tree or on your patio so that it gets a few hours each day in the shade and does not get sunburn.

If you live in an apartment or if you just prefer growing your succulents indoors, you can place the plant somewhere like a windowsill where it will get exposed to sunlight.

If your region has harsh winters and you need to take the plant indoors for the season, you can support its light requirements using a grow light. The grow light will act just as well as the sun in providing the plant with the light it needs to survive while the real thing is unavailable.

Water requirements

Sedeveria ‘Sorrento’ is a succulent and, like most succulents, can tolerate a certain level of drought because its leaves and body are able to store water.

The best way to know whether your Sedeveria needs to be watered is to touch the top two inches of soil in the plant’s pot. If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

There is no set schedule that you can simply follow when it comes to watering your plant, because we all live in different regions that have different climates, seasons and weather.

If you live where the climate is dry and arid, you will obviously water your plant more often than someone who lives in a place that is colder and has constant rain.

You will also have to adjust your watering depending on the season. Your plant’s soil will dry out faster during the summer than in the winter. 

The most important thing to remember is to let the soil dry out between waterings.

Never overwater your succulent, because this can have far more detrimental effects than underwatering.

One condition that can stem from overwatering is root rot. This happens when the soil in the plant’s pot is perpetually waterlogged, which blocks the roots’ access to oxygen and eventually drowns them. The dead roots will begin to rot and will attract opportunistic pathogens in the soil.

These pathogens will cause the rot to spread faster to the rest of the plant and may even lead to its death.

If you suspect that your plant is being overwatered, stop watering it immediately. Remove it from its pot and wash off as much of the soil as you can. Inspect the roots for any sections that are brown or black; these are rotten and will need to be removed. Use a sterile pair of scissors to cut them off until only white, healthy roots are left.

Then, lay the plant on a dry paper towel to air dry for a couple of hours. While you wait, prepare the new pot, which needs to have drainage holes at the bottom. Fill it two-thirds of the way with fresh potting mix, place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with the rest of the soil. Pat the soil around the roots to make the plant more stable.

You do not need to water the newly-repotted plant immediately. Wait at least a week before watering, so that it has fully recovered from the stress of repotting.

Soil requirements

The best kind of soil to use for your Sedeveria ‘Sorrento’ is a mix of succulent and cactus potting mix. These types of potting mixes are well-draining and airy, which are the qualities that succulents like.

You can make your own potting mix by adding coarse sand or perlite to regular potting soil.

Perlite lessens the soil’s ability to retain too much water, and provided your pot has drainage holes at the bottom, your plant will thus have no problem with overwatering.

Is Sedeveria ‘Sorrento’ hardy?

Sedeveria is one of the less cold-hardy succulents, and cannot grow in a zone lower than zone 10. Succulents that grow in zone 10 can only tolerate temperatures as low as 30 degrees Fahrenheit.

So, if you live in a place where the falls or winters can get quite cold, remember to take the plant indoors before the cold sets in. The temperature inside your house is more stable than outside during the colder months.

Inside the house, make sure you keep the plant away from air conditioners and do not position it near windows or doors that might let in cold drafts, as this can also blast the plant with lower temperatures that might affect it.

Pests and diseases

Succulents are not very prone to pest infestations unless they are being overwatered.

Excess water in the soil and in the leaves attracts insects because it provides a source of hydration and the rigid leaves and stems also provide shelter to these pests.

The most commonly observed pests on Sedeveria ‘Sorrento’ are mealybugs and scale insects.

Both of these insects will damage the succulent by feeding on the sap in its leaves and stems.

Unfortunately, while there are still only a few of these insects on the plant, it may be hard to spot them, and by the time the effects are noticeable, the infestation is already considerable.

One of the first signs of an infestation is a black, mold-like coating on the plant. The leaves will also feel sticky to the touch.

Scale insects have dome-shaped shells and look like cotton. Mealybugs are white, also resemble cotton and cluster in the veins of the leaves.

You can get rid of these pests by spraying them directly with rubbing alcohol, or you can make a solution of dish soap and water and spray the insects with this as well. Repeat the process once a week until all of the pests are gone.

The best way to avoid a pest infestation is to make sure not to overwater your plant. Make it a habit to inspect the underside of the leaves every time you water it, so that you can catch any infestation in its early stages.

Is Sedeveria ‘Sorrento’ toxic to humans or pets?

No, Sedeveria ‘Sorrento’ does not pose a threat to you, your children, or your pets, so it is safe to keep as an indoor plant.

Sedeveria ‘Sorrento’ propagation

The easiest method of propagation for Sedeveria ‘Sorrento’ is to use stem cuttings.

Choose a stem from your parent plant and make sure that it is healthy. Use a sterile knife or scissors to cut the stem off.

Let the cutting callous for 24 hours, and then place it two inches deep into a well-draining potting mix in a container that has drainage holes at the bottom.

Make sure that the cutting does not have any leaves buried in the soil, as these will rot and you do not want this to affect the growth of your cutting.

Place the container with the planted cutting in a spot where it can get lots of indirect light, and only water it when the soil in the container is dry.

Remember never to give the growing cutting full sunlight because it is fragile while rooting and could get sun damaged.

After a few weeks, the cutting should have sprouted roots. You can check whether they are well-established by tugging on the cutting. If you can feel resistance when you pull, that means that the roots are growing well and you can now transfer each new plant to its own pot

if you planted multiple cuttings. Going forward, you can care for the plants as you would any mature plant.

Conclusion

Sedeveria ‘Sorrento’ is a succulent hybrid of Sedum and Echeveria. It is popular for the purple hues of its leaves.

It is quite low-maintenance, as many succulents are, and it can be a great starter plant for someone who is just getting into succulents. It does not require a lot of care and attention in order to thrive. It is drought-tolerant and can be neglected for weeks and still survive.

Of course, we do not suggest that you test the plant’s limits. It is still best to care for it by providing its ideal living conditions.

Give the plant at least six hours of bright, indirect light every day, and water it only when the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch. If the top two inches of soil are still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

This plant likes airy, well-draining potting mix, and grows best in a pot that has drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to escape. This helps to avoid overwatering and root rot.

This plant is non-toxic to both humans and animals, and the best way to propagate it is using stem cuttings.

So, if you are looking for a succulent that is not only pretty but also easy to care for and propagate, then give Sedeveria ‘Sorrento’ a try – it might be just the plant you are looking for!

Image: istockphoto.com / ksushsh

Aloes are some of the most popular and low-maintenance succulents around. Their hardy nature and need for minimal care and attention, coupled with their beautiful shape and many medicinal benefits, is why they are widespread and included in most succulent collectors’ gardens.

One of the most common problems experienced by aloe owners is the plant turning red.

The most common causes of an aloe turning red are too much water, too much sunlight, temperature changes, too much fertilizer, lack of nutrients, incorrect potting mix, pests and disease.

In this article, we will discuss each of these causes and how to remedy each one. So, if you have an aloe that has suddenly turned red, keep reading to learn how to fix it.

Why is my aloe turning red?

1. Too much water

Too much water or overwatering is one of the most probable reasons your aloe is turning red. This may be due to you giving the plant too much water every time you water it, or watering it more frequently than you should. Another factor that could lead to overwatering is poor drainage due to the incorrect potting mix or a lack of drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Succulents, in general, do not need to be watered much because they can store plenty of water in their leaves to act as reserves in the event of a drought. They need proper soil drainage because their roots are sensitive to damage from standing in waterlogged soil.

Overwatering can be quite tricky to spot in its early stages because the signs of an overwatered aloe typically appear only when the plant has been overwatered for some time.

Signs that you have an overwatered aloe include colored spots that can appear red or brown on the plant’s leaves, and if the leaves feel soft and mushy to the touch.

The worst-case scenario for an overwatered aloe is root rot.

Root rot is a condition that can develop when the aloe has been overwatered for some time and its roots are constantly standing in soggy soil. The roots will drown because they are unable to get access to oxygen, which they need to survive. The dead roots will become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens, which will help spread the rot to the rest of the plant until the entire plant is compromised and could even die.

Remedy

If you suspect that overwatering may be the reason your aloe is turning red, stop watering it immediately.

You will need to get as much water and moisture out of the soil as you can, so that it can dry out completely.

If you think that the plant may have root rot, remove it from the pot and wash the soil from the roots. Do this gently, because the roots will be fragile in this condition.

Inspect all of the roots closely and check for any sections that have turned brown or black. These roots are rotten and will need to be removed. Use a sterile pair of scissors to cut the rotten roots away until only white, healthy roots remain.

Lay the plant on a dry paper towel and allow it to air dry for a couple of hours. When the roots are dry, you can plant the aloe in a pot that has drainage holes, using a new potting mix that is well-draining and airy.

You can even create your own drainage holes at the bottom of the pot with a drill. These holes, along with the well-draining soil, will let any excess water flow though so that it does not stagnate around the plant’s roots.

There are plenty of commercially-available succulent soil mixes in your local store. These contain substances such as perlite, pumice or coarse sand, that make the soil more porous.

Lastly, you will need to adjust your watering techniques to avoid further overwatering. The best way to determine whether your aloe needs to be watered is by touching the top two inches of soil with your fingers. If the soil is dry to the touch, water the plant, but if it is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

On average, an aloe typically needs to be watered every 10 days.

2. Too much sunlight

Your aloe could also be turning red because it is getting too much sunlight. The redness on the leaves may be sunburn.

If you live in a place with a very hot climate where your aloe is getting direct sunlight for most of the day, this puts your plant at a higher risk of getting sun damage.

There are some aloes that prefer indirect light and it may be best to keep them indoors near a window or on a patio or porch where they can get some shade for a few hours a day.

Your plant can also be sensitive to sunburn if you have recently moved it from a cold climate to a hotter climate. Remember that plants also need time to adjust to new surroundings, so make sure that you help it transition properly.

Remedy

Fortunately, fixing redness on a sunburnt aloe is as simple as limiting its exposure to the sun.

The moment you see the aloe turning red, move it immediately to a shadier area, such as under a large tree or on your patio. The plant still needs light to survive, so if you take it indoors, placing it near a window should be good enough while it recovers.

As we mentioned above, if you move the plant from a place with not much sunlight to a place with lots of sunlight, move it gradually by slowly increasing the number of minutes it spends under the sun every day, until it has acclimatized properly to its new surroundings.

3. Temperature changes

A change in the temperature around it can also cause aloe’s leaves to turn yellow or red.

If you leave the plant outdoors during the summer and fail to take it indoors as winter is starting, this can lead to leaf damage from stress due to environmental changes.

Remedy

If you live in a region where there is a big change in temperature between winter and summer, you need to be more vigilant about when you bring your plant indoors so as not to expose it to temperature extremes.

Remember that, whether you are bringing it in from the outdoors or taking it outdoors after keeping it indoors, it should be a slow transition.

If your aloe is an indoor plant, move it away from windows that let in too much light during hot summers. Choose a west-facing window and place the plant about a foot away so that it gets some shade.

4. Too much fertilizer

Another reason your aloe is turning red could be that you have given it too much fertilizer and salts may have built upon the top layer of the soil.

Minerals that are present in the soil are converted to chemical salts. These minerals include potassium, phosphorus, and nitrogen that the plant needs to survive.

If you give the plant mineral-heavy fertilizer, or if you fertilize it when it is not actively growing, you can cause a salt build-up in the soil which can cause root damage.

Remedy

If you see a build-up of salts on the soil, you need to scrape it off as soon as possible. You will then need to flush out as much of the excess nutrients and minerals from the soil as you can.

Water the soil in the pot with a volume of water equivalent to five times the volume of the pot in order to flush out the excess fertilizer in the soil.

The amount of light your plant gets should also factor into how often you fertilize your plant.

The more light a plant gets, the more it needs to be fertilized if you want it to thrive. This means that a plant that likes low light should only need to be fertilized once a year. Aloes will typically need fertilizing one to two times a year.

Tap water can also be a source of unwanted minerals for the plant. Try using rainwater or distilled water on your plant instead. If you do not have access to distilled water or rainwater, use an external water filter to remove the minerals in your tap water before you water your plant.

5. Lack of nutrients

As much as an excess of nutrients and minerals is detrimental to your aloe, so is a lack thereof.

Your aloe can also have red foliage if it does not have enough of the nutrients that it needs.

Yes, succulents are much less affected by this than other plants, but that does not mean they do not need the nutrients.

A lack of essential nutrients and minerals such as magnesium and nitrogen can lead to a lack of chlorophyll, and without chlorophyll, the aloe cannot create its own food to survive.

Remedy

Using the right kind of potting mix is usually enough to provide your aloe with what it needs. Potting mix that is specifically designed for succulents contains slow-release nutrients, which is ideal for your aloe.

6. Incorrect potting mix

We have already mentioned that it is very important to use the correct potting mix for your aloe. If you are using regular potting soil, this can negatively affect the plant and its leaves may turn red.

Remedy

The only way to fix this problem is to repot the plant as soon as you can.

You will need to ensure the plant is as happy as possible before you do something as stressful as repotting, so water it two days before you plan to repot it. This will also help soften the soil before you remove it from the pot.

Choose a potting mix specially designed for succulents or cacti. You can also make your own potting mix by combining three parts regular potting soil, one part perlite, and one part coarse sand. This mix will allow excess water to pass through easily and will make the soil airy and porous so that the roots can get the oxygen they need to survive.

7. Pests

Most succulents are unaffected by pests and are even often considered to be pest-resistant, but they still attract certain pests for which they provide water and shelter due to their rigid foliage.

The presence of these pests may also be the cause of the redness on your aloe’s leaves.

One of the most commonly observed insects on aloes is the mealybug. This bug uses its mouth to pierce through the plant’s tissue and feed on the sap. One or two of these insects may not cause noticeable damage, but the longer they are allowed to live on the plant, steadily increasing their population, the more obvious their damage will be.

Colonies of mealybugs look like red splotches at the base of the aloe.

Remedy

Remove the mealybugs by dislodging them with a steady stream of water or by spraying them with a solution of dish soap and water. Rubbing alcohol is also effective as a spray to eradicate mealybugs. Repeat the process once a week until there are no more bugs to be found.

Another insect that feeds on aloes is the scale insect, which also pierces the plant tissue to feed on the sap. You use the same methods described above to get rid of scale insects. Make sure to keep the infested plant in a different area away from your other plants so that the insects do not spread.

8. Disease

Mold and fungi can grow on your aloe and can also cause it to turn red or brown. The growth of these pathogens is due to the soil in the pot being unable to dry out completely between waterings.

Remedy

If you see white mold or fungi growing on the top layer of the soil, use an old spoon to scrape them off. This is the first step in removing them from the soil.

In order to keep mold or fungi from growing on the soil and possibly damaging the roots and foliage of your plant, allow the soil in the pot to dry out between waterings.

Remember that aloes are succulents that come from some of the driest and most arid places on earth, so they are more than adept at surviving drought. It is far better to err on the side of underwatering than overwatering these plants.

You can also let the plant get more light so that the soil dries out faster, and place it where there is good air circulation which will also help dry the soil out between waterings.

Before watering your plant, check that the top two inches of soil are dry.

Conclusion

Aloes are some of the most resilient and low-maintenance plants, so it takes a lot for them to become stressed and for this stress to manifest as red foliage.

The most common causes of an aloe turning red are too much water, too much sunlight, temperature changes, too much fertilizer, lack of nutrients, incorrect potting mix, pests and disease.

Figure out what exactly is causing your aloe to turn red and remedy it accordingly to get the plant back to normal and growing properly as soon as possible.

Image: istockphoto.com / Alberto Masnovo

Cacti are very unique-looking plants, so it is completely understandable that some people may struggle to identify whether it is a flower, a shrub, or a tree.

A cactus is not a flower, but a flowering plant that produces seeds. All cactus species produce flowers, although there are some species that have more prominent blooms than others.

In this article we will discuss the proper categorization of cacti, to make the subject clearer and less confusing.

If you are one of the many who often wonder how a cactus should be correctly identified, just keep reading.

Is a cactus a flower?

No, a cactus is not a flower, but it does produce flowers that sprout from areoles, which act kind of like branches.

Cacti are not considered trees, either, because they do not have hard, woody stems like trees do. Although it is possible for some cactus species to grow as tall as a tree in height, they have succulent stems that do not classify them as trees.

An example of a cactus that can grow up to 60 feet tall is the Pachycereus pringlei. Inversely, the Blossfeldia liliputana is a cactus species that measures less than an inch in height.

How would you classify a cactus?

A cactus is a succulent plant that grows spines on its body. There are over 1,700 species of cactus around the world and they are all classified as plants.

The term ‘plant’ is quite broad and encompasses herbs, grass, bushes, vines, shrubs, and trees.

What makes a cactus a plant?

The first characteristic that makes a cactus a plant is the presence of leaves (in some species), stems and roots, which all plants have in common.

The next characteristic is the cactus’ ability to photosynthesize. Unlike normal trees or other plants that use their leaves to photosynthesize, cacti have their stems and arms to do this job. Also unlike other plants, cacti do not absorb precious oxygen at night; instead, they continue to absorb carbon dioxide, which makes them great indoor plants.

Cacti are also able to produce seeds that they use to propagate themselves, as well as pups, or offsets, that sprout from the sides of the parent plant. The seeds can be collected from a cactus when the flowers have dried out.

Growing a cactus from a pup or a cutting is easier and takes less time, but it is still possible to grow one from seed, which is a characteristic it shares with other plants.

Do all cacti produce flowers?

Yes, all species of cacti have the ability to produce flowers. The question of when the cactus blooms will depend on the age and species of the plant and the care it is getting.

Some species will need decades before they reach maturity and are able to bloom. Other cacti refuse to bloom when they are not getting the light they require. Yet others base their blooming on whether the days or nights are longer.

It may be trickier to get a potted cactus to bloom because it is much harder to find the right combination of ideal light, fertilizer and water conditions to keep the plant happy.

1. Columnar cacti

For the columnar type of cactus, it can take decades before they start to bloom, especially if they were grown from seed.

If you want a columnar cactus to take less time before it blooms, you can take a cutting from an already-mature blooming cactus and propagate that. The mature cactus will also continue to bloom, even if you take a cutting from it.

The Saguaro cactus is one columnar cactus whose branch will, unfortunately, refuse to root if you plant it. This cactus typically takes 40 to 55 years before it flowers for the first time.

2. Round cacti

An example of a round cactus is the Mammillaria. This species takes between three and four years to bloom.

Some round cacti will also form small columns as they mature and this is where the white, green, yellow, pink, red or magenta flowers will sprout from.

Round cacti make great outdoor as well as indoor plants.

3. Short stem cacti

The hedgehog cactus is an example of a short stem cactus that, even when mature, will measure below two feet in height. This cactus will take up to five years before it starts producing red flowers during the spring. 

Another short stem cactus is the Easter lily cactus, which has red, magenta, lavender or white flowers.

Can you encourage a cactus to bloom?

Yes, you can help a cactus out to encourage it to bloom. It may be a bit tricky to do this, especially since a huge factor for blooming is the arid conditions cacti get in their natural habitats.

One thing you can do is to buy a cactus that is already blooming. If a cactus is blooming, it is likely to bloom again in the future. Examples of cacti that bloom easily are the dwarf cactus, Bolivian cactus, Easter cactus, Christmas cactus and spiny cactus.

Place your blooming cactus in an area where the temperature is correct for its requirements. You need to do what you can to make sure that your cactus blooms every year.

Most cacti bloom in the summer, but if you want yours to bloom earlier, in the spring, keep it at 50 degrees Fahrenheit all through the winter.

Another trick is to keep the plant outdoors where it gets lots of sunlight during its growing phase. When it gets direct sunlight, it is less likely to suffer from overwatering and root rot.

But, although it likes lots of sunlight, make sure you do not overexpose it either because this can lead to sunburn. Let it get a few hours of shade even when it is kept outdoors.

Also remember that although cacti may be fine with not being watered for a certain period of time, that does not mean you can just neglect their watering needs entirely.

Water your cactus when the soil in the pot is dry to the touch. As long as the soil is well-draining and the pot has drainage holes at the bottom, the chances of overwatering and root rot are low.

Also, adjust your watering schedule to the season and the current weather conditions. This will mean watering more frequently during the spring and summer, and less during the fall and winter.

When fertilizing your plant, only do so during its growing phase. There are commercially available fertilizers designed specifically for cacti, which are typically low in nitrogen and high in potassium. Fertilize your cactus every two weeks during its growing season. Never do so when it is dormant because that can lead to root burn from excess nutrients and minerals in the soil.

Conclusion

A cactus is not a flower; rather, it is a plant that produces flowers. Most cactus species take several years before they are mature enough to bloom.

If your cactus is not yet blooming, do not worry; it may just be too young and it might take a few more years of patience.

Cacti need very specific living conditions, depending on the species, to be triggered to start blooming. The best way to encourage your cactus to do this is to simulate, as best you can, the light, temperature, and watering conditions it might get in its natural habitat.

If you are providing your cactus with all its basic needs and ideal conditions, you just might be rewarded with beautiful red, magenta, yellow or white flowers, which can last anywhere from a few days to a few weeks.

Cacti may not produce as many flowers as often as other plants, but when they are perfectly content, they will bring a riot of color and life to your home or your outdoor garden.

Image: istockphoto.com / photos777

The snake plant is one of the world’s most popular succulents, and also one of the easiest to grow. It is quite difficult to kill, even when neglected.

However, they are still susceptible to problems if the neglect goes too far, and one such problem encountered by snake plant owners is the plant losing all of its roots.

The most probable reason your snake plant has no roots is that its roots have been damaged by overwatering and root rot.

In this article, we will discuss the reasons your snake plant has no roots, and what you can do to remedy the situation. So, if you are currently dealing with this very problem and you want to know how to save your snake plant, just keep reading.

The snake plant’s root system

Before we dive into the reasons your snake plant has no roots, let us first talk about the plant’s root system.

Snake plants have shallow roots called rhizomes. Let us say your snake plant is in a pot that is two feet tall: its roots will probably grow down about a foot deep into the pot. Snake plants are simply not deep-rooting succulents.

This plant prefers to grow its roots out to the side as opposed to growing them downward.

If you try to water your plant from the base of a tall pot, the plant will not be watered very effectively because the roots will not reach the water at the bottom of the pot.

The plant does not like to be dried out for long periods of time but also does not like its soil to be too wet. However, between the two evils, it would much prefer drying out than always being wet, because it will have a bigger chance of surviving.

The ideal watering schedule should be consistent and neither too dry nor too wet.

Why does my snake plant not have any roots?

The most likely reason your snake plant does not have roots is because they have rotted away due to overwatering and root rot.

The snake plant has long, pointy leaves that stand straight up which is what gives the plant its name. One of the first signs that there is something wrong with the plant’s roots is when the leaves are floppy instead of rigid and upright. Even if just a few leaves are floppy, this is enough to be a cause for concern when it comes to your snake plant.
Although these plants are hardy and can tolerate a certain level of neglect and mishandling, do try not to put your plant under undue stress. At some point, you will reach the plant’s limits and this could lead to its death. One of the ways a snake plant can get stressed is by overwatering.

An overwatered snake plant’s soil will be perpetually waterlogged, and this means that the roots will be standing in soggy soil and will be unable to dry out.

If the roots cannot dry out between waterings, they will not be able to absorb oxygen. Soggy soil does not allow oxygen to reach the roots and this will cause the roots to drown and die.

The dead roots will begin to rot, and the rot will attract opportunistic pathogens such as fungi and bacteria. These pathogens will cause the rot to spread faster throughout the roots and into the stems of the plant until eventually all of the roots are afflicted with rot.

When the rot reaches the leaves, this is when they turn mushy and floppy. The rot and all of the excess water flooding the soil is enough to ruin the structural integrity of the succulent’s leaves and, before you know it, the entire plant can be compromised and may even die.

The plant’s roots will disintegrate because of the root rot, leaving the plant with no roots.

What do I do if my snake plant has no roots?

Unfortunately, if you have reached the point where your snake plant has lost all of its roots, you can no longer save the entire plant.

Thankfully, there are other steps that you can take to continue the plant’s legacy by propagating the afflicted plant.

First, you need to remove the dead leaves from your plant. Use a sterile pair of scissors and remove the leaves carefully, one by one. As you remove them, inspect each one closely and remove sections that are brown or black because those sections are rotten. They will also feel soft and mushy to the touch. You will need to discard the rotten parts properly.

Once you have collected the remaining healthy-looking leaves from your snake plant, you now need to treat them for any possible fungal infection. Such infection can remain on the leaf and will go on to infect the new plant.

Lay the snake plant leaves on a dry paper towel, sprinkle some cinnamon over them, and leave it for 24 hours. Cinnamon is a natural antifungal substance and this is one of the easiest and most cost-effective ways to make sure that your snake plant leaves are not carrying any fungi.

While you are waiting for the cinnamon to work its magic, you can go ahead and prepare a soil mix for your new plants.

Mix one part perlite, one part peat moss, and about three parts regular potting soil. The peat moss will help keep the soil moist so that you do not need to water the plant as much.

The perlite will make the soil mix more porous and airy, thereby allowing the roots to dry out faster than normal and letting oxygen reach the roots to keep the plant happy.

Fill the new pot up to about two-thirds with the potting mix, and then place the leaf cuttings upright in the soil. Pat the soil around the leaf cuttings to make sure they are stable and will not easily fall over.

Now all you have to do is to be patient and wait for the leaf cuttings to grow. You can help your plants out by making sure they are getting their daily light requirements.

If you keep your snake plants indoors, place them next to a north-facing window because these let in lots of indirect light.

Only water the cuttings when the soil in the pot is dry to the touch. Poke your finger into the top two inches of the soil to check, and if it is dry, it is time to water the plant. If the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking again. Remember not to wait until all of the soil is bone dry; only wait until the top two inches are dry. Underwatering can also cause the newly-growing roots to shrivel up if you deprive them of water for too long.

If you are taking good care of your cuttings, they should be able to form roots after four to six weeks. If you want to check the roots’ integrity, give the plant a gentle tug. If there is resistance, that means that the plant has established roots and you can now start caring for it as you would a normal plant.

Conclusion

The most likely reason your snake plant has no roots is that it has been overwatered for too long and has developed root rot. Root rot can eat away most, if not all, of the roots, and this is why the roots have seemingly disappeared.

If your snake plant has lost its roots, you might not be able to salvage the entire plant, but you can still use any healthy leaves to propagate it and create new plants as replacements.

The best way to avoid losing the roots of your snake plant is to water it correctly. Avoid overwatering by making sure you only water it when the top two inches of soil in the pot are dry to the touch.

Image: istockphoto.com / SeventyFour

Kalanchoe tomentosa, or the panda plant, is a Madagascar native that flaunts gorgeous gray-green leaves bordered with chocolate-brown splotches. For certain reasons, however, you may find the beautiful foliage of your panda plant curling.

In this article, we will explore the known factors that contribute to this condition and how to remedy it. 

Panda plant leaves curling

There are three reasons the leaves of your panda plant may curl. The first is overwatering, the second is inadequate sunlight, and the third is unsuitable potting. These may individually or collectively result in your plant’s leaves curling.

When you observe the curling foliage, you can determine which of the three is the culprit. It would also help to better understand how these three factors affect succulents’ leaves, so a deeper dive is in order.

Overwatering

Overwatering is a common enough mistake, especially among those taking care of their very first succulent. Beginners are typically fastidious in their watering duties, but even the more adept can be guilty of this error.

Succulents do not need to be frequently watered. Being from arid natural habitats, they have evolved to make do with little water and retain moisture in their thick, fleshy leaves. While the succulent grower’s heart may be in the right place, the excess water in the pot is not.

Following the “soak and dry” method is recommended by experts when it comes to watering succulents. The trick is to water your panda plant very thoroughly, then wait more or less a week until the soil in the pot is dry before watering it again.

This method ensures that your panda plant gets its fill of water without any detrimental excess. Overwatering will also cause you more problems than just curling leaves. It could also lead to root rot and other fungal issues.

If your panda plant’s leaves are curling as a result of overwatering, simply refrain from watering it again until the soil is dry. If its roots are no longer constantly overwhelmed with water, the plant can slowly begin to recover and the leaves will uncurl.

Inadequate sunlight

Inadequate light for succulents is often associated with etiolation, the pathological condition whereby the leaves become elongated as they stretch towards a light source. But another sign of inadequate sunlight is the curling of the foliage.

Panda plants in particular require six hours of bright, indirect sunlight daily. The changing seasons, unsuitable placement indoors, or even a garden with too much shade, will prevent your plant from receiving its required daily dose of sunlight.

As the panda plant continues to receive inadequate sunlight, its foliage will curl more and more. Recognizing the issue early on and averting it will save you and the plant the trouble of curling leaves.

Once you have determined that your panda plant is getting less sunlight than it needs, transfer it to an area where it will be able to receive more light. As its requirements are satisfied, the foliage will begin to heal itself and uncurl.

Unsuitable potting

Your panda plant’s leaves may begin to curl if the proper potting requirements are not met. These include the use of the right size pot with enough drainage holes, as well as suitable potting soil.

As with other succulents, your panda plant needs enough room in its pot to grow and soil that drains well. These conditions are mandatory for it to thrive. Curling foliage is an indicator that these needs are not being met.

Repotting your panda plant in a large enough container filled with the right potting mix will do wonders for it. The proper distribution of water and nutrients throughout the pot will attenuate the curling and encourage healthy growth.

Conclusion

When a panda plant’s foliage curls, the reason is either overwatering, inadequate sunlight or unsuitable potting. Each of these factors can greatly impact a succulents’ health and growth. Fortunately, if the damage is not too far along, simple steps can be taken to remedy it.

Image: istockphoto.com / NancyAyumi

Cacti go through five stages of growth. These stages are germination, vegetative growth, flowering, pollination and fruit formation.

In this article, we will discuss each of the stages of cactus growth and how each stage affects the overall progression of a cactus’ life.

If you would like to learn more about the life cycle of a cactus, just keep reading.

The stages of cactus growth

Germination

The life cycle of a cactus begins with a dormant seed becoming a seedling. These seeds, which have been dormant for years, will only come out of dormancy when the conditions surrounding them are just right.

They require specific environmental stimuli to know the correct time to germinate; an example of such a stimulus is a change in the soil around the seed. Other conditions that could encourage a dormant cactus seed to germinate are changes in available light, changes in the moisture level of the soil, and changes in the environmental temperature.

The seeds of different cacti also have different requirements for the encouragement of germination.

The coating of the cactus seed will need to absorb enough water for it to break away before the plant can begin growing. Then, there are stored food reserves inside the seed itself that will need to be converted to chemicals that the seedling can absorb.

One more factor that needs to be present to ensure successful seed growth is oxygen. You can make sure a seed has oxygen by choosing soil that is porous and loose.

Keep the temperature around the seed at around 68 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit, which is the temperature required for them to properly germinate. Also remember no to overwater the seed once planted, because this can negatively affect its ability to germinate.

Vegetative growth

After the seed has germinated, the cactus will take some months to develop its basic shape, depending on the type of cactus it is. During this stage, you will witness the plant’s mature shape starting to become visible. There are even species of cactus that can take five to 10 years to reach the size and maturity required to begin the next stage of development, which is the flowering stage.

Flowering stage

The intensity of the light that a cactus gets, as well as the temperature around it while it grows, are the two most important factors that determine the growth of its flowers.

You can actually encourage flowering in cacti, even out of the blooming season, by imitating the desert-like conditions the plants like.

The best time for cacti to flower is during the summer, when it is easier to reach a temperature of around 50 degrees Fahrenheit which is the ideal for cactus flower growth.

If the temperature and sunlight outdoors get too intense and hot for your cactus, you can always transfer it to a shadier area where it will not get sunburnt.
Depending on the type of cactus, its flowers will grow from different parts of the plant. Some cacti produce flowers from stalks that grow separately from the body, while others have flowers growing directly from the body of the cactus.

Unfortunately, cactus flowers typically only last for a few days to two weeks at most.

At this stage, your cactus will want to be watered more often than usual because it is actively growing. Continue doing this until the end of summer. Taper your watering when fall and winter come around, because there should be enough water in the soil to keep the cactus well-hydrated.

Remember that cacti are drought-tolerant and they would rather be underwatered than overwatered. An overwatered cactus’ roots can drown and die if left to stand in waterlogged soil. The dead roots will be susceptible to opportunistic fungi and bacteria in the soil, and this can lead to root rot. The aggressive rot will travel up toward the rest of the plant until the entire plant succumbs.

In order to avoid overwatering and root rot, make sure the soil in the plant’s pot is well-draining and that the pot you are using has drainage holes at the bottom.

Pollination stage

It may be difficult to get your cactus pollinated, especially since its flowers do not last for very long.

You could try to encourage natural pollination by making sure there is another cactus also in bloom nearby. You would need to ensure that there are at least two of each kind of cactus near each other, that have been grown at roughly the same time so that they will also bloom at the same time.

The closer the two cacti are to each other, the more likely the pollination is to occur. Wind or rain can help to naturally pollinate your cacti, but it is also a great boost to your plants if there are pollinating insects present in your garden, such as beetles, wasps, butterflies or bees.

Fruit formation

Once pollination has been successful, the fruits of your cacti will start to develop. This starts with the formation of a berry with spines on it. The mature fruit of the prickly pear cactus also has spines. The colors of the fruits will depend on the species.

Cactus fruits have plenty of health benefits. They contain antioxidants that can help get rid of cholesterol in your body, they are great for the heart, and they also have anti-inflammatory properties. They are also great sources of magnesium, potassium, and vitamins C and E.

How fast does a cactus grow?

Most cacti grow quite slowly. After six months to a year, a cactus is only around the size of a marble. It will probably grow a couple of inches over three years, depending on the species that you have.

After the third year, a typical cactus will grow around an inch or so every year. This is not a hard and fast rule, of course, since there are also some species that can grow six or seven inches in a year.

A Ferocactus grows about an inch in height every year, while the golden barrel cactus only grows half an inch a year.

The Saguaro cactus, on the other hand, can grow as much as seven inches in a year, which is why it can reach over 70 feet if it lives for more than a hundred years.

Remember that cacti take their time to reach full maturity, so you must learn to be patient when growing one.

Why does a cactus grow slowly?

One of the reasons cacti grow so slowly is because they have adapted like this for survival. These plants grow in deserts where they do not know when the next rainfall will come, and where the climate is extreme.

Because of these conditions, cacti will prioritize survival over growth. They are built to overcome the odds just to have the chance to reproduce in the future. So, if they have to endure decades of difficult conditions just to be able to create more cacti, they will wait and simply survive.

Another reason they grow slowly is due to their lack of leaves. A typical plant has leaves which contain chlorophyll, which allows the plant to produce more energy faster, hence the faster growth.

Cacti, on the other hand, have very small leaves, known as scales or bracts, and they have areoles and spines that do not help with energy production. Normal leaves will not work on a cactus because they will only cause the plant to lose water faster in a desert setting.

Because of their lack of regular leaves, cacti will not grow at the pace of a tree that has hundreds of thousands of leaves on its branches.

Conclusion

The five stages of cactus growth are germination, vegetative growth, flowering, pollination and fruit formation.

The entire life cycle of a cactus can take as long as a hundred years, depending on the species, so if you plan to take on the responsibility of growing one, be prepared to wait decades for it to go through all five stages.

If you are patient and provide your cactus with ideal conditions, it may one day reward you with its beautiful flowers.

Image: istockphoto.com / nattanan726

The United States Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zone Map is used by farmers and gardeners to determine the average, or the range, of the annual minimum winter temperature of different regions of the country. This map is divided into 10-degree Fahrenheit zones.

The range of minimum average temperatures in zone 4 is -30 degrees Fahrenheit to -20 degrees Fahrenheit. Zone 4 regions include the interior of Alaska, so you can imagine just how cold zone 4 really is.

Interestingly, there are still succulents that are able to grow and thrive in these temperatures.

In this article, we will list and discuss these succulents, so if you are a succulent-lover living in a zone 4 region, read on to find out what to grow.

8 Best succulents for zone 4

1. Sedum spathulifolium

This Sedum species is also known as the broadleaf stonecrop and is coveted by gardeners and succulent collectors alike for its beautiful rosettes of leaves that grow on long stalks. Other cultivars of the plant may have flatter or rounder leaves.

This succulent is an evergreen perennial and is hardy to zone 4 climates.

It likes to be under the full or partial sun and to be watered only when the soil in the pot is dry to the touch.

It can reach a height of six inches and spread to about two feet wide.

2. Sedum matrona

This succulent is a great choice if you want one that has large blooms, huge growth, and is able to grow in cold climates.

Unlike other sedums that keep low to the ground, Sedum matrona grows more like a bush.

Like most of its family, this succulent is low-maintenance, can tolerate periods of drought, and can thrive despite receiving very little attention.

It blooms in the late summer and can encourage the presence of pollinating insects with its pink flowers.

Sedum matrona is hardy to zone 4 provided it gets lots of full sun for several hours a day.

It can grow to 30 inches high and 18 inches wide.

3. Sedum sichotense

The toothed rosettes of this Sedum give it a truly unique look, while the intense orange and red of its foliage give it a lot of personalities.

The foliage will start off more yellow but will turn green the closer summer gets.

When fall comes around, the leaves will turn red and become a deep burgundy in the winter.

If you want to add a pop of color even during the dreary winter months, this is definitely a succulent you need to add to your collection.

Sedum sichotense is hardy to zone 4 and loves getting full or partial sun throughout the day.

It reaches six inches high and 10 inches wide on average and typically becomes dormant during the winter.

4. Sempervivum tectorum

Otherwise known as hens and chicks, this is one of the hardiest succulents that can tolerate and even thrive in winter climates.

The leaves of this plant also form rosettes, and it makes a good ground cover for gardens and landscapes.

It gets its moniker from the fact that the mother plant resembles a mother hen, with its offsets growing out from its sides like little chicks.

If this plant does not get the amount of light that it needs every day, it might start to become leggy as it searches for more light.

It is easy to propagate: all you need to do is to take the offsets, or pups, and plant them in their own pots, and you have a new Sempervivum plant.

If you end up having too many of these plants, they also make good gifts for friends and neighbors.

This plant is hardy to zone 4 and grows best when given lots of sunlight. It can grow up to six inches high and two feet wide.

5. Sempervivum arachnoideum

Another Sempervivum, this variety is also called the cobweb houseleek. It gets its name because it produces cobweb-like hairs on its leaves. The more leaves the plant has, the more it seems as though a spider has actually spun its web across the foliage of the plant.

It has a very unique look that adds something interesting to your garden or your succulent collection.

This succulent is hardy to zone 4 and also likes to be placed where it can get full or partial sunlight. Fully-grown Sempervivum arachnoideum plants are typically three inches tall and four inches wide.

6. Opuntia

Opuntia compressa is also commonly known as the prickly pear cactus. This drought-tolerant plant is native to desert-like places but it can actually survive in zone 4 climates as well.

Opuntia compressa can actually be eaten, but be careful when handling both the plant and its fruit, because it does have spines that can lodge in your skin if you are not careful. 

The pads of the prickly pear can be cut off and used to propagate new plants after they have been calloused over. The pads are sold in grocery stores as food, but you can also buy them and try to grow a prickly pear for yourself.

The prickly pear is an evergreen perennial, but do not be alarmed if its pads become thinner during the winter because this is completely normal.

Ensure that the plant gets full sun and only water it when the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch.

7. Euphorbia myrsinites

The myrtle spurge is a flowering succulent that is hardy to zone 4 climates. It may not look like your typical succulent, but it is, and it is also considered a weed by some people. 

In some states, it is required to exterminate the plant because of its sap, which can be a skin irritant. The plant can also cause stomach upset if accidentally ingested.

It is so fast-growing that before you even know you have one, it could have already spread up to 15 feet.

If you live in a place where this is not considered invasive, you can grow it  in a pot so that you are able to enjoy its orange and yellow flowers.

This succulent is a herbaceous perennial and is evergreen in warm climates. It loves the heat and prefers being under the full sun.

8. Agave parryi

This hardy Agave species is perfect for places with harsh winters because it can still thrive and produce foliage despite the extreme conditions.

This variety is native to New Mexico and Arizona, so you know that it does well in either very hot or very cold climates.

Unfortunately, this plant dies after blooming, but as long as you keep its offsets or pups, you will have no problem making sure you have one of these plants at all times. It also takes the plant, on average, 25 to 50 years before its first bloom, so you will have it around for a quarter to half a century before it leaves you for greener pastures.

This Agave is slow-growing and is noticeably smaller than most Agave species.

Its foliage is blue and silver and its leaves have spiked tips that give the plant a look quite similar to that of an artichoke.

The flowers grow on the end of stalks that can be as tall as 20 feet. In the wild, clumps of Agave parryi will look absolutely stunning, with all of them producing large yellow flowers on their tall stalks.

This plant is an evergreen perennial and is hardy to zone 4.

Conclusion

The range of minimum average temperatures for zone 4 is -30 degrees Fahrenheit to -20 degrees Fahrenheit. Zone 4 hardiness regions include the interior of Alaska, so you can imagine just how cold zone 4 really is.

Despite the extremely low temperatures in zone 4, there are still succulents that are able to tolerate these conditions and can even thrive in them. 

These plants may be able to endure the cold, but make sure they are still getting the number of hours they need under full sun every day. Do not water them as long as their soil is still damp. When the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch, you can water them again.

These succulents come in all shapes and sizes, so it is up to you to mix and match the ones you like to create a beautiful display in your garden.

Cacti are succulent plants native to some of the most arid places on earth. They come in all shapes and sizes, and the smaller varieties make great indoor plants because they are low-maintenance and easy to care for.

A common problem experienced by cactus owners is when their cactus become squishy or soft to the touch.

The probable causes of this change in texture are fungal and bacterial infections, too much water, root rot, poor drainage, humidity, pests, and injury.

In this article, we will discuss each of these causes and how to resolve them. So, if you are currently struggling with this problem and want to learn more, then keep reading.

Why is my cactus squishy?

1. Fungi and bacteria

One of the reasons your cactus is squishy could be an infection caused by either a fungus or bacteria.

If aside from the squishiness, you also notice black spots on the body of the cactus, then it is most likely due to a fungal or bacterial disease.

The longer the disease goes untreated and the longer it is allowed to attack the body of the plant, the limper and softer the cactus will become.

Fungal infections on cacti are more likely to happen when the plant is overwatered, in high humidity conditions, or with poor air circulation.

Bacterial infections can come about when the pot or soil is contaminated, or if the water you are giving the plant is unclean.

Remedy

If you suspect your cactus is squishy because of either a fungal or bacterial infection, you need to treat it as soon as possible.

First, take the diseased plant away from your other plants. Prune off any rotting or dead parts of the plant so that the infection does not continue to spread. Also remove any debris in the pot that has fallen off of the diseased plant.

Spray the plant down with fungicide or bactericide that you can purchase in your local gardening store. If you do not want to use chemicals on your plant or around your house, you can make a neem oil solution by adding two tablespoons of neem oil to a spray bottle full of water.

Treat the plant every three days until you think it has recovered.

The plant will also need to be repotted. Remove it from its pot and wash off as much of the soil as possible from its roots. This soil is contaminated and will need to be replaced.

Wash the pot thoroughly with soap and water to disinfect it before using it again. Make sure the pot is completely dry, fill it with fresh succulent potting mix, and replant your cactus.

You can prevent fungal and bacterial infections by making sure the pot and the soil are always clean, watering the cactus properly, and providing the correct light and humidity for the plant.

2. Too much water

Arguably the most common reason your cactus is squishy is that you are giving it too much water.

Remember that cacti are desert plants that are used to living in dry places. Their bodies are designed to absorb and hold plenty of water to use in the event of a drought, and they do not need to be watered constantly.

If the plant’s soil is constantly wet, the roots will continue to absorb water from the soil until the excess water causes the cells in the plant tissue to burst. This affects the structure of the plant, making it limp, while the excess moisture makes it squishy.

Remedy

If you think your cactus is being overwatered, stop watering it immediately, and in the future only water the plant when the top two inches of soil are dry.

An overwatered cactus can go up to two weeks without needing water again, and for the soil to dry out.

Place the plant in a spot where it can get lots of sunlight to help the soil dry out faster. Make sure it gets good air circulation, such as near a door or window.

As long as you allow the soil to dry out, the plant should have no problem recovering from the overwatering.

3. Root rot

If a cactus is overwatered for extended periods, it can develop root rot.

Root rot is a condition that starts when the plant’s roots are constantly standing in wet soil, and are unable to dry out between waterings.

The roots will drown and die, and the dead roots will become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens which will make the rot spread more aggressively to the rest of the plant.

The squishy parts of the plant are a result of the rot spreading up the roots and into the rest of the cactus.

The cactus will also be unable to properly absorb water and nutrients because of its compromised roots, causing it to become weak and possibly even die.

Remedy

If you suspect that your cactus has root rot, you need to remove it from its pot. Wash away as much soil from the roots as possible, and do this gently because the roots will be very fragile in this condition.

Inspect the roots for brown and black sections. These are rotten and will have to be pruned off. Use a sterile knife or scissors to cut off the rotten roots, until only the healthy, white roots remain.

Place the plant on a dry paper towel to let the air of the root dry for several hours.

Prepare a new pot, ensuring that it has drainage holes, and fill it with fresh succulent potting mix.

Place the cactus in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with more potting mix.

Prevent future root rot by avoiding overwatering the plant and making sure that the soil and the pot have adequate drainage.
It is not guaranteed that your cactus will recover from root rot; it will depend on the severity of the damage. If you were able to catch the rot in its early stages, the plant will have a higher chance of making a full recovery.

4. Poor drainage

If your cactus does not have good drainage, it might also become squishy after some time.

Poor drainage, overwatering, and root rot usually go hand in hand when it comes to this problem.

Poor drainage leads to waterlogged soil, which leads to overwatering, which ultimately leads to root rot.

A cactus can have poor drainage if the pot is too small for the plant, or if the pot does not have any drainage holes at the bottom.

A small pot fills up with water quickly and, because there are no drainage holes, the excess water will not be able to flow out.

Poorly-draining potting mix can also hold onto water for too long and can lead to similar problems.

Remedy

If your cactus is squishy due to poor drainage, you might need to change your pot.

If the roots in the pot are forming a ball, it is an indication that the pot might be too small, and your new pot should be one size bigger.

Use a succulent potting mix that is airy and porous, and does not hold onto water for too long.

Also, make sure the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot are big enough. Use a drill if you need to add more holes or if you want to make the existing holes larger.

5. Humidity

Another possible reason your cactus is squishy is that you are keeping it in a very humid place.

Cacti are native to the desert, where the humidity is naturally low and the air is dry. If the cactus is in a humid environment, it will become limp and soft because of all the moisture in the air.

Humid environments also encourage the growth of fungi which, as we mentioned, can also cause cacti to become squishy.

Remedy

If you are keeping the cactus in a humid environment, transfer it immediately to a place where the humidity is lower.

Dry areas where the plant gets plenty of sunlight are perfect for a cactus.

If all the areas in your home are too humid for the plant, you can use a dehumidifier to lower the humidity in the room where you keep the plant.

Water your cactus less if it is in a humid environment. Wait until the top two inches of soil are completely dry to the touch before watering it again.

6. Pests

The most commonly observed insects on cacti are mealybugs and scale insects. Both of these pests will cause damage to the cactus by feeding on the sap in the plant’s tissue.

These insects also leave a substance called honeydew on the plant, which attracts other insects such as ants. These will cause even more damage to an already damaged plant.

The longer the infestation is left untreated, the more damage will be inflicted on the plant and the weaker it will become due to loss of water and nutrients.

Remedy

If you see pests on your cactus, get rid of them using a pesticide. If you do not want to use a chemical pesticide, you can also use neem oil, which is an organic pesticide. Mix two tablespoons of neem oil to a spray bottle full of water and spray the solution directly on the affected areas of the plant.

You can also dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol to manually remove the insects one by one, or use a stream of water from a hose to knock the insects off the foliage.

Repeat the processes as long as needed until you are sure that all the pests have been eradicated.

While you are treating your plant, keep it in another part of the house where it can be quarantined, so the pests do not spread to your other plants.

If there are parts of the plant that were heavily damaged by the insects, do not be afraid to cut those off with a sterile knife or scissors.

7. Injuries

If all of the causes listed above have been ruled out, then the squishiness of your cactus is most likely due to an untreated injury.

You might have dropped the plant, or it could have been hit by an object without your knowledge.

Pests can cause injuries, as can the animals living in your home.

No matter how small the injury, it can still become infected and this will lead to the plant rotting, hence the squishiness.

Remedy

If you are able to find the injury on your cactus, you need to treat it as soon as possible.

Use a bactericide or a fungicide to prevent bacteria or fungi from entering the plant through the injury.

If the injury looks fresh, you can just clean it with mild soap and water.

If the injury is significant, you might need to cut off the damaged part of the cactus in order to save it. Use a sterile knife or scissors to do this, so as not to contaminate the plant.

While the cactus is recovering from an injury, do not expose it to direct sunlight.

Conclusion

Cacti are wonderful and fascinating plants that come in all shapes and sizes. They are hardy and resilient plants that are low-maintenance and easy to care for.

One of the most common complaints cactus owners have is when their plant becomes squishy.

The probable reasons your cactus has gone squishy are fungal and bacterial problems, too much water, root rot, poor drainage, humidity, pests and injury.

Correctly identify the cause of your cactus’ squishiness and treatment can be administered promptly to save your plant.

Image: istockphoto.com / singkamc

Hoyas are very popular houseplants because of how low maintenance they are. Their beautiful vines, waxy leaves, and clusters of pretty flowers are some of the aesthetic reasons they make great indoor plants.

One of the most common problems encountered by hoya owners is when the plant’s leaves turn brown.

The causes of browning hoya leaves include too much sunlight, underwatering, overwatering, transplant stress, frost damage, too much or not enough nutrients, disease, and pests.

In this article, we will discuss these causes of browning hoya leaves, and how to remedy each one.

If you are experiencing this problem and wish to learn more, just keep reading.

Why are my hoya’s leaves turning brown?

Too much sunlight

One of the most common reasons a hoya’s leaves turn brown is that it is getting too much sunlight – specifically, direct sunlight.

When the plant’s leaves get too much direct sunlight for extended periods of time, it can cause the leaves to burn and become brown and crispy.

Hoyas prefer bright, indirect light. These plants typically grow on the ground, on rocky coastal landscapes, or on the trunks of trees as epiphytes. This means that they do not get a lot of direct light in their natural habitats. To keep these plants happy, you need to emulate the sunlight they might get in nature.

The moment you notice browning on the tips of your plant’s leaves, move it to a shadier spot immediately while you decide on a new spot for it to live.

If you are keeping your plant outdoors, keep it under the shade of a large tree or on a patio or porch where it will get shade for several hours a day.

If you keep your plant indoors, place it near an east- or west-facing window, as opposed to a south-facing window that might let in light that is too harsh. If the only windows in your home are letting in harsh light, you can diffuse it by placing a sheer curtain over the window.

However, just because the plant likes to be in the shade some of the time, this does not mean you can deprive it of light altogether. All plants need light to survive and thrive, and although you are afraid of burning your plant, remember that it still needs light to photosynthesize, so make sure it still gets its daily requirements.

If you live in a place with winters where natural light is scarce, you can help your plant out by buying a grow light. Plants cannot tell the difference between sunlight and artificial light, so they will do just fine in this scenario.

Underwatering

Another reason your hoya’s leaves are turning brown maybe that it is not getting the water it needs.

If you neglect to water the plant when you are supposed to, or if the plant is kept in a spot where it gets too much sunlight causing the soil to dry out quickly, or if you used soil that is too loose and does not hold moisture well, this can all lead to shriveled and brown leaves.

Plants need water not only to keep their leaves vibrant and healthy; it is also the vessel they use to carry nutrients from the soil into their roots. If there is no water in the soil, the plant will be deprived of nutrients as well as dehydrated.

Fortunately, underwatering is easy to fix. If you think your plant has not been getting as much water as it needs, all you need to do is to water it immediately.

Flood all of the soil in the pot with water until you can see excess water dripping from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Flooding the soil ensures that all of the roots can have access to water and will have a chance to recuperate.

The leaves that have turned brown from drying out cannot be returned to their original state, so if you do not like the aesthetic effect of the brown leaves, you can always cut them off using sterile scissors so that only healthy, green leaves remain.

The best way to avoid underwatering is to understand when to water the plant. To do this, you will need to check the soil by touching it. If the top two inches of soil are dry, that means the plant needs to be watered, but if the top two inches of soil are still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

Overwatering

If you give the plant too much water, this can lead to overwatering which will also cause its leaves to turn brown.

Overwatering can be due to giving the plant too much water every time you water it, or watering it more often than you need to. It could also be because the soil in the pot is too dense and retains moisture too well, the pot does not have drainage holes and the plant is standing in soggy soil, or you did not adjust your watering schedule according to changes in the weather or the season.

The leaves will turn brown because the plant will absorb too much water from the waterlogged soil, and the cells in the leaves will burst from the overwhelming water content. These ruptured cells will start as brown spots that will spread until the entire leaf is affected. This phenomenon is called edema and is an effect often observed in plants that have been overwatered for some time.

Hoyas can absorb a certain amount of moisture that they store in their leaves and stems for times of drought. This means that they do not need their soil to be constantly wet in order to be happy.

The roots also need to be able to dry out between watering because they can only absorb oxygen when they are dry. If a plant’s roots are perpetually standing in wet soil, they will be unable to get oxygen and could drown and die. This can lead to a serious consequence of overwatering, known as root rot.

Root rot is what happens when the roots drown in waterlogged soil. The roots will begin to rot, and this weakness will allow opportunistic pathogens to attack. These pathogens, which are fungi and bacteria, will make the rot more aggressive and soon it will spread to the rest of the plant and could even kill it.

You will know a plant has root rot if the leaves and stems have turned yellow or brown and feel soft and mushy to the touch, while the soil in the pot is constantly wet.

In order to save an overwatered hoya, you need to stop watering it immediately. Let the soil in the pot dry out before watering it again.

If you want to check whether your overwatered plant has root rot, you will need to remove it from the pot. Wash off as much soil as possible from the roots, as gently as you can. Inspect the roots closely for sections that are brown or black. These roots are rotten and will need to be removed.

Use a sterile pair of scissors to cut off the rotten roots until only healthy, white roots remain.

Then lay the plant on a dry paper towel to allow the roots to air dry for a few hours.

Prepare a new pot and make sure it has drainage holes at the bottom. These drainage holes will allow any excess water to flow out, rather than sitting stagnant in the pot.

Fill the new pot with fresh potting soil that is not too dense. Place the plant in the soil and cover the roots with more soil.

Do not water the plant after repotting it, in order to give the roots time to recover from the trauma of repotting.

Just like with underwatering, the best way to avoid overwatering is to know exactly when to water the plant. As mentioned above, check the soil by touching it. If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Transplant stress

Another reason hoya leaves turn brown is that they have either just been repotted or have just been moved from one place to another without having time to adjust.

This plant, in particular, does not take well to these kinds of changes and they will indicate their stress through wilting and browning leaves.

This can be so bad that their leaves can even start falling off.

When a plant is growing in a nursery, it is living in ideal conditions. The moment you take it home with you, you are exposing it to different temperatures, humidity, watering schedules and light.

These changes may not seem like much, but for a plant they can be quite drastic, which is why it can become stressed.

When you take a new hoya home, do not worry if it displays signs of stress; this is normal. The best you can do in this situation is to provide the plant with as close to ideal conditions as you realistically can, and it should be able to bounce back in a few weeks.

If you want to move an indoor hoya to the outdoors, this could also lead to transplant stress, so make sure you make the move gradually.

Place the plant outdoors for one hour on the first day, and then every day add 30 minutes to the time the plant spends outside. Continue this until the plant can tolerate spending the entire day outdoors, but it should still spend a considerable amount of time in the shade.

Frost damage

The hoya’s natural habitat is the tropics, so it is not the best at surviving cold climates.

When a hoya is exposed to frost, its leaves will be damaged. By the time they have thawed out, there will be brown spots on them.

This damage is irreversible, so you will need to remove the damaged leaves from the plant if you do not like seeing them.

Bring the plant in from the cold, especially if you live in a place that has severe winters.

When indoors, make sure that your plant is not placed anywhere near an air conditioner or in a spot near a door or window where it can get hit by cold drafts. These cold drafts can also cause the plant to dry out and turn brown.

Too much or not enough nutrients

If you give your hoya too much fertilizer, this can also cause its leaves to turn brown. Fertilizers contain salts that can suck up the moisture from the soil and dry out the plant.

Hoyas get plenty of nutrients from their potting soil, so they do not need to be fertilized often. If you think the plant is not growing well, then you can feed it, but only when it is necessary.

Not giving the plant enough nutrients, on the other hand, can also lead to the leaves turning brown. Hoyas need copper, manganese, zinc, iron, potassium, molybdenum, magnesium, phosphorus and nitrogen to survive.

The signs of nutrient deficiency can be noticed earlier on older leaves than on younger ones. This is because, when a plant does not have enough nutrients, it will prioritize its younger leaves because they need fewer resources to stay alive. The older leaves will essentially be sacrificed to make sure the younger leaves are kept alive for longer.

Disease

Diseases caused by fungi can also turn the hoya’s leaves brown.

Anthracnose infection, caused by the Colletotrichum fungus, leads to brown spots appearing on the leaves. The brown spots will have gray spores, and the condition typically affects hoyas that live in warm and humid places.

If you are not able to catch the infection in its earlier stages, the spores can spread to your other plants through the elements, insects or contaminated gardening tools.

If your plant has open wounds they are easier to infect, so try to keep the wounds clean and make sure you clean your tools before using them on another plant.

Another fungal disease that affects hoya plants is Septoria leaf spot. This disease is caused by the Septoria lycopersici fungus and also commonly affects tomato plants. This disease can cause brown spots with yellow halos, and the longer the disease is allowed to persist, the larger the spots become until they consume entire leaves.

Botrytis cinerea fungi can also cause the leaves to turn brown and mushy. The plant will rot as the leaves start to fall off. You will also see brown or black lesions on the plant’s stem.

Alternaria leaf spot is another fungal disease that affects not only hoyas, but many other vegetable and fruit plants as well. Brown spots will appear in the early stages of the disease and, as it becomes more serious, lesions will begin to appear on the stems. If the disease is left untreated, the plant will wither and die.

For hoyas that are grown in humid places, powdery mildew is a common problem. This is caused by different fungi and also affects plants other than hoyas. The disease will present as grayish-white powder on the leaves, and eventually, the leaves will turn yellow or brown.

The Erwinia carotovora bacteria causes a bacterial leaf spot on hoya plants, particularly those kept in warm and humid places which are conducive to bacterial growth. Yellow and brown spots will appear on the leaves, and there may also be blisters at the bottom of the leaves as the disease gets more serious.

If you think your plant is diseased, separate it from your other plants immediately. Keep it in quarantine while you treat it and until you are sure it is back to normal.

Use a fungicide on the plant, spraying it once a week for as long as needed.

You can also remove the affected leaves and stems. Make sure you dispose of the affected foliage properly, because they may be harboring spores that can spread to other plants.

Pests

The most common pests on hoyas are spider mites, scale insects, aphids, and mealybugs.

All of these insects feed on the sap in the leaves and stems of the plant. The bites on the foliage, where the insects suck the sap, will leave brown spots. The larger the pest population on your plant, the more noticeable these brown spots will be.

Unfortunately, it can be difficult to spot these tiny pests during the early stages of an infestation. As a precaution, you should inspect the plant for pests, including the bottom of its leaves, every time you water it.

You can get rid of these pests by separating the affected plant from your other plants to avoid spread, and then using a hose to knock the pests off with a strong stream of water.

You can also use an insecticide, but if you do not like using chemicals around your house, there are some home remedies you can try.

You can spray the pests directly with rubbing alcohol, which should be enough to kill them.

You can also mix two tablespoons of mild dish soap with water and use this solution as a spray.

Or, if you have neem oil, mix two tablespoons of oil into a spray bottle of water and spray the solution on the pests.

No matter which method you use, repeat it once a week for four weeks, extending for a few more weeks if needed.

Conclusion

Hoyas are popular houseplants because they are low maintenance and have beautiful foliage. These are tropical plants that may not do so well in places with proper winters.

One of the most common problems encountered by hoya owners is the leaves turning brown.

The most likely reasons your hoya’s leaves are turning brown are too much sunlight, underwatering, overwatering, transplant stress, frost damage, too much or not enough nutrients, disease, and pests.

In order to prevent the browning of a hoya’s leaves, start by choosing a healthy plant from the nursery. Acclimatize the new plant to your home by providing it with as close to ideal conditions as possible.

Use the right soil and pot for the plant, and only use sterile gardening tools. Remove any diseased or browning leaves from the plant and make sure you dispose of them properly.

Place the plant in a spot where it gets bright, indirect light and only water it when the top two inches of soil have dried out.

If you live in a place with winters, take the plant indoors before the frost starts, because this plant is sensitive to low temperatures.

Finally, make it a habit always to check the leaves and stems of your plant for signs of disease when you water it. This way, you will be able to catch any disease or pest infestation in its early stages.

Image: istockphoto.com / yilmazsavaskandag

The burro’s tail, also known as the donkey’s tail, is a succulent houseplant loved by many gardeners. This showstopper comes with a long stem plaited with thick, green, bead-like leaves, ideal as hanging decor for indoor walls.  

If you have fallen in love with this beauty, be warned in advance that it may not be very easy to grow, even though it is succulent. Occasionally you may see its beads falling off as part of its growth cycle, but even disturbing the leaves slightly may cause them to fall off due to the plant’s fragile nature. Frustrating as it may be, this situation is completely normal and harmless.

But what if your burro’s tail starts to lose more of its leaves, more frequently? In that case, it could be a cry for help. You may need to investigate several possible issues that can cause sudden leaf drop, and address the culprit promptly to save your plant.

Causes of falling beads

Unlike other succulents, the burro’s tail is generally a sensitive and fragile plant. Even strong winds or being moving around can cause some of its beads to fall off.

However, if you start noticing a large number of leaves falling frequently, then something must be wrong. As much as possible, you want to preserve the beauty of your burro’s tail, and understanding the problem behind the leaf drop may help you come up with the right solution to prevent it from losing even more beads.

Below, we have listed some of the most common causes of leaf drop in burro’s tail. 

1. Part of the natural life cycle

Even healthy burro’s tails are susceptible to losing their beads, because they are fragile by nature. Falling leaves may also be a sign of fresh growth, so if you notice your plant’s leaves suddenly dropping off, do check for any offsets forming beneath the plant. 

The infrequent dropping of beads may simply be part of your plant’s natural life cycle. If this is the case, there is no need to worry about your burro’s tail; you can just let it be.

2. Overwatering

Overwatering is the top enemy of most succulents, and the burro’s tail is no exception. 

The burro’s tail can store water in its stems and leaves, so there is no reason to give it more water than it actually needs. Moreover, too much water can cause the roots to rot and prevent the uptake of nutrients to your plant. Without healthy roots, it is almost impossible for your burro’s tail to survive.

Overwatering may also cause the soil to become soggy, encouraging the growth and spread of bacteria and fungi. Although succulents like the burro’s tail are highly resilient, watering them the wrong way may cause them to catch various diseases. 

3. Underwatering

Burros in general prefer dry soil and little water. However, bone-dry soil may also damage the plant’s root system and cause it to wither.

Again, a healthy root system is very important for your burro’s tail to thrive and stay intact. Even if it does not need a lot of watering, leaving it dry for a very long time may eventually cause it to lose its beads, as well as shorten its lifespan.

4. Using a pot or soil mix with poor drainage

A pot or soil with poor drainage can be as dangerous as overwatering. Without proper drainage, even a small amount of water can be enough to soak the soil and rot the roots. 

So, if you notice your burro’s tail losing its beads and becoming unhealthy overall, do check the soil quality and the container, as this can be the culprit. Dig deep and you may find that the bottom section of the soil is soggy and some of the roots have started to rot, even if the topsoil is completely dry.

5. Exposure to hot, direct sunlight

Succulents love the sunlight. But direct exposure to intense heat from the sun may have detrimental effects on your burro’s tail.

Partial exposure to sunlight should be sufficient for a burro’s tail to thrive. If you leave it under the hot sunlight, you may start to notice its stem-changing from blue-green to pale green, and eventually losing a majority of its leaves.

6. Using a container too small for the plant

A container too small for your burro’s tail can cause this fragile plant stress, and this can manifest as leaf drop.

Burro’s tails tend to grow bigger and heavier over time. As your plant reaches maturity, you will notice that its stem grows longer. It stands to reason, then, that your plant will need a larger and stronger container to allow it to thrive. Most gardening enthusiasts highly recommend a hanging basket or pot to give the plant enough space to grow longer.

How to stop your burro’s tail’s leaves from falling off

Unlike most succulents, the burro’s tail is a little challenging to grow. Its fragile nature requires your special care and attention. Even moving it to a new location or exposing it to a stressful environment can cause a large number of its leaves to drop. 

Fortunately, there are ways you can preserve the beauty of a plant. Hopefully, the tips below can help save your plant’s beads from falling further.

1. Give your plant partial sunlight

Contrary to what you may believe, some succulents, including the burro’s tail, only require partial sunlight to stay healthy. If you leave it exposed to direct sunlight, the intense heat may burn its stem and leaves.

If you prefer to grow your burro’s tail outdoors, make sure it is placed in a shaded area where it can receive just enough sunlight. You can also grow it indoors, as long as it has access to sunlight, such as a spot near a window.

2. Use a fast-draining soil mix

Burro’s tails grow better in a fast-draining medium. The soil should allow water to drain fast to avoid standing water and prevent root rot.

To ensure that your succulent grows well, consider using a soil mix formulated for cacti and other succulent plants. You can also mix your regular potting soil with perlite, pumice or horticultural-grade sand to achieve an airy soil texture.

3. Give the right amount of water

When it comes to watering your burro’s tail, moderation is key to keeping it strong and healthy. Give it too little and you will completely dry out the soil and damage the roots. Give it too much and the roots will start to root. Either way, can be damaging to your plant.

There is no right amount of water that works for all seasons, so make sure you continue to monitor your plant and adjust your watering accordingly. For example, you may need to give your burro’s tailless water when it is dormant during the winter. In growing seasons, meanwhile, you may need to hydrate it as soon as you notice the soil has dried out.

4. Get rid of pests

Nothing can be more annoying than seeing pests rummaging on your precious plants. Fortunately, the burro’s tail is less susceptible to pest infestations than many other plants, and if you ever do spot pests, they’re most likely aphids. These bugs are not difficult to control so you do not have to worry too much.

To stop the bugs from assaulting your plant, you can mix one-fifth of rubbing alcohol with four-fifths of water and spray the solution directly on the plant. It is also good to follow this up with neem oil spray to keep the pests at bay.

5. Protect your plant from extreme temperatures

Extreme temperatures such as cold or intense heat can be detrimental to any plant, especially the highly-sensitive burro’s tail. To keep its tail healthy and intact, it is recommended to keep it in an area where the temperature is 40 to 70° Fahrenheit. Monitor any color changes on its skin, as this can be an obvious sign of intolerance to extreme temperatures.

If you do notice your burro’s tail turning pale green, try transferring it to an area with more shade.

Final thoughts

Growing a burro’s tail can be different and a little challenging compared with other succulents. You may notice its leaves falling off despite all the love and care you give it. New gardeners might get easily frustrated, but with enough time and patience, you will be rewarded with a beautiful tail of braided beads hanging on your wall or in your rock garden.

Image: istockphoto.com / sirichai_ec2

The zebra plant, also known as Haworthia fasciata, is one of the most popular succulent house plants thanks to its pretty leaves with their signature white markings. It is also quite small, which makes it a great table plant. It is drought-tolerant and low-maintenance, so it is a good choice for beginner plant collectors.

One of the most common complaints zebra plant owners have is that their plant has started turning yellow. If this is the case, it means there is an environmental factor that is causing the plant stress, and this stress manifests as discoloration.

The most frequent causes of a yellowing zebra plant are overwatering, underwatering, or too much sun. In this article, we will discuss each of these causes and how to remedy them.

If you are experiencing something similar with your zebra plant and you wish to learn more, then keep reading.

Why is my zebra plant turning yellow?

1. Overwatering

One of the main causes of a yellowing zebra plant is overwatering. This can come about in several ways: you may be giving the plant too much water every time you water it, watering it more often than you need to, leaving it outdoors during the rainy season, using a poorly-draining potting mix and pot, or not adjusting your watering habits according to changes in the weather and season.

You will know that the zebra plant is getting too much water if the leaves have turned yellow or brown and they feel soft and mushy to the touch.

Remember that zebra plants are succulents, and succulents can absorb and store water in their leaves to withstand drought. This means that they do not need to be watered as often as most plants.

Zebra plants can also go dormant when they have absolutely no more water in their soil. They have completely adapted to the driest of circumstances and it is much easier to fix an underwatered zebra plant than an overwatered one.

Because these plants grow in some of the most arid places on earth, and the soil in their natural habitat is loose and gritty, they do not do well in regular potting soil that is too dense and retains moisture too well.

One of the most serious consequences of overwatering your plant is root rot. This condition is caused by leaving the plant’s roots to stand in waterlogged soil for extended periods. Succulents need their roots to dry out between waterings so that they can absorb oxygen, and overwatering will prevent this. The roots will drown and die.

The dead roots will become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens, such as fungi and bacteria, and these will make the rot spread more aggressively to the rest of the plant.

Eventually, the rot will reach the leaves and this can lead to the plant’s death.

Remedy

If you suspect that your zebra plant is overwatered, stop watering it immediately and place it in a spot where it can get lots of light. The light exposure will allow the soil to dry out faster. Let the soil in the pot dry out completely before watering the plant again.

If you think the plant has root rot, you need to take it out of the pot. Pull it out gently and wash off as much of the soil as you can from the roots. Be gentle as you do this, because the roots are quite fragile in this state.

Inspect all the roots closely and look for sections that have turned brown or black. These roots are rotten and will have to be removed. Use a sterile knife or scissors to cut off the rotten roots, leaving only healthy, white roots.

Lay the plant on a dry paper towel and allow the roots to dry out for a few hours.

Then prepare a new pot, making sure it has sufficient drainage holes at the bottom and filling it two-thirds of the way with a well-draining potting mix.

Place the plant in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with the rest of the soil. Do not water it immediately; give it at least a week to recover from the trauma of repotting.

Make sure the new pot is not too big. A big pot will need more soil to fill it, and more soil means more water will be retained. The more water is retained, the higher the chances of overwatering the plant.

If you keep the plant indoors and the pot is placed on a saucer, make sure you empty the saucer of any excess water that it catches.

The best way to prevent overwatering is to make sure you are replicating the watering cycle that your plant prefers. Only water it when the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch. If the top of the soil is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Also check the bottom of the pot regularly to ensure that there is no soil blocking the drainage holes.

2. Underwatering

Even though the zebra plant is succulent and does not need to be watered as much as other plants, that does not mean you can simply neglect it for extended periods.

The leaves of an underwatered zebra plant will also turn yellow and then brown. The longer they go without water, the drier and crisper the leaves will become.

If you notice the plant’s leaves turning yellow and then brown, with the leaves near the base becoming dry and crispy, your zebra plant may be suffering from drought stress.

If you are sure you have been watering the plant often enough and are wondering why it is showing signs of underwatering, it might be because you are watering it too lightly.

You need to soak all of the soil in the pot every time you water it, so that all of the roots get their fair share of moisture.

If you keep your zebra plant in a spot that gets a lot of wind or drafts, this can dry out the soil and the plant’s leaves quickly, which will cause the same signs of underwatering.

Remedy

If you think your plant is being underwatered, do not worry because this is very easy to remedy. All you need to do is to water the plant until all of the soil is soaked and excess water is dripping out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This is important because all of the roots in the soil should have access to the water.

Keep the plant in a spot where there is just enough circulation; not where it gets hit by drafts that will dry it out.

As always, the best way to prevent underwatering is by checking the soil in the pot. If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

After three waterings, your zebra plant should have bounced back to its normal healthy self. You just need to make sure you water it correctly from now on.

3. Too much sunlight

Another possible reason your zebra plant is turning yellow is that it is getting too much light.

Yes, zebra plants are succulents, but they actually prefer bright, indirect light as opposed to direct sunlight.

You can tell if a zebra plant is getting too much sunlight because the leaves will turn yellow or even red, but will not feel soft or mushy like those of an overwatered plant.

In their natural habitat, zebra plants grow in shaded areas where they only get bright, indirect light. Replicating that same situation in your home, then, is what is best for the plant.

Remedy

As we mentioned, zebra plants like bright, indirect light. So if you are keeping the plant outdoors, place it under a large tree, under a garden net, or on your porch. This way the plant can get the kind of light that it likes.

If you think it is getting too much light where it is currently placed, transfer it immediately.

If the only window in your home lets in too much light, you can always diffuse the harshness of the light with a sheer curtain.

After a couple of days in a shadier spot, your plant will likely look much better. Unfortunately, the foliage that has been sun-damaged will not revert to its original state, because it has literally burned from the sunlight. If you do not like how the sunburned leaves look, you can prune them off, or you can just wait for them to fall off in due time.

Conclusion

The zebra plant is one of the most popular succulent house plants because of how low-maintenance and compact it is. It is very easy to care for, which makes it a great starter plant.

One of the most common problems encountered by zebra plant owners is when their plant turns yellow. A yellowing zebra plant is undergoing some kind of environmental stress, and it is up to you to correctly identify the cause and fix the problem.

The most common causes of a yellowing zebra plant are overwatering, underwatering, and too much sunlight.

As long as you water your zebra plant correctly and place it in a spot where it gets only bright indirect light, you will have no problems maintaining its vibrant green and white colors.

Image: istockphoto.com / Junko

The United States Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zone Map is used by farmers and gardeners to determine the average, or the range, of the annual minimum winter temperature of different regions of the country. This map is divided into 10-degree Fahrenheit zones.

USDA hardiness zone 6 has a minimum average temperature, during the winter season, of -10 to 0 degrees Fahrenheit. This zone covers a large part of the United States, and several zone 6 regions have temperatures that can drop to -5 degrees Fahrenheit.

This zone typically experiences cold winters, with a mild to hot summer.

You might think that succulents can only grow in desert climates, but there are actually hardy succulents that can grow, and even thrive, in climates with cold winters. These succulents are used in landscaping and in rock gardens.

In this article, we will discuss the various succulents that do well in zone 6. So, if you live in a place included in USDA hardiness zone 6 and you would like to create an outdoor succulent display, then just keep reading.

7 Best succulents for zone 6

1. Yucca

The Yucca is a very easy succulent to grow and care for and can do well in zone 6. The Color Guard Yucca is the best variety for this zone and has variegated foliage which makes it stand out in any garden. It can grow in both rock gardens and in landscapes and goes great along with perennials outdoors or even in containers indoors.

This plant grows well under direct sunlight but can also tolerate partial shade for several hours a day. It can tolerate wind, heat, and even drought-like conditions because it is able to store water for times of drought.

If you live in a place with some wildlife, do not worry because deer and rabbits do not typically like eating this plant.

2. Ice plant

The ice plant, specifically the purple ice plant, is a kind of succulent that grows low on the ground, making it a good choice as a ground cover around your other plants. It produces flowers that look a lot like purple daisies, which gives the plant its signature striking and beautiful look. It blooms in the summer and you will be able to appreciate its beautiful flowers throughout the entire season.

The ice plant grows well in sandy soil or in rock gardens, and can grow to around four inches tall and a foot wide. It is hardy and can thrive in zone 6 regions.

If you were thinking that this plant got its name because of its hardy nature, this is not the case. It is called an ice plant because its foliage and flowers look glossy and reflective, as though they were covered in ice crystals.

Place the plant under full sunlight and only give it water when the soil in the pot has dried out completely. To be sure that it needs watering, touch the soil in the pot. If it is dry, water the plant, but if it is still damp, wait one or two days before checking the soil again. Being vigilant of the plant’s watering needs will keep it from becoming overwatered and save it from possible root rot.

3. Frosty Morn Sedum

Sedums are some of the most hardy succulents that can grow in cold climates such as those included in zone 6.

The Frosty Morn Sedum is one such variety, with markings on its leaves and pretty flowers.

This plant is very easy to grow and care for; there is not much you need to do to make it happy. It can even grow in a hardiness zone as low as 3, so it will have no problem growing in zone 6.

Keep your Frosty Morn Sedum in a spot where it can get lots of sun, and plant it in well-draining soil. If you give the plant all of its basic needs, it should have no problem thriving in this environment.

4. Sempervivum

Sempervivum is another family of succulents that grow well in zone 6. These succulents are beautifully symmetrical with their rosette formations, which is why they make great decorative plants.

The most popular Sempervivum variety is probably the hen and chicks. This plant gets its name because the mother plant produces tiny offsets, or pups, that make the plant look like a mother hen and its many little chicks surrounding it.

This plant is very easy to grow and care for and requires very little attention to thrive.

Zone 6 is completely fine for it, and it can even tolerate zone 3 if it needs to.

It will definitely add a pop of color to your zone 6 outdoor succulent gardens.

This Sempervivum likes to be planted in well-draining soil and placed in a spot where it can get lots of sunlight. It is tolerant of drought, but should ideally be watered when the soil in the pot becomes dry.

5. Sedum cauticola

Sedum cauticola is a slow-growing, spreading succulent that is quite colorful.

It will not take over your garden too aggressively, which is an annoying characteristic of many sedums.

This succulent has bluish-gray foliage with purple edges that will stand out nicely in your succulent garden. It does well in most types of soil, as long as the soil is well-draining, and it can be placed in areas with lots of sun since it is also drought-tolerant.

Lots of pollinating insects visit the Sedum cauticola during the late summer when it is in bloom. Its flowers are a lovely, eye-catching shade of reddish-pink.

6. Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow

Euphorbia Ascot Rainbow is a succulent that produces cream, green and lime-colored flowers at the end of winter and in early spring. 

The warmer the weather becomes, the more its foliage changes to greenish-grey.

Inversely, the closer the weather gets to the colder seasons, the more pinkish or reddish the succulent will become.

This is a succulent that can grow and thrive in hardiness zone 6, and can also grow easily in hot, dry conditions. 

Give this plant water only when the soil is dry, and place it in a part of the house or garden where it will get enough sunlight.

7. Opuntia humifusa

Opuntia humifusa is also called the low prickly pear, and is a clump-forming cactus that produces yellow flowers with red centers. The pads of this cactus are oval-shaped.

This plant is native to the eastern parts of the United States and is a staple in plenty of northern gardens, even in colder states such as Michigan and Illinois.

It is hardy and has no problem being placed in desert landscapes as well as in zone 6 gardens, so whether you want it for its beautiful blooms or its edible fruit and leaf pads, Opuntia humifusa is a great choice for you.

How should zone 6 succulents be cared for?

The specific care guidelines will depend on the type of succulent you are growing, although succulents are some of the simplest plants to grow.

Generally speaking, these succulents can grow and thrive even with little care and attention, and they will reward you with their beautiful aesthetic and flowers.

All of these succulents like the sun, so make sure you place them where they can get lots of bright sunlight for several hours a day.

Plant them in pots with drainage holes and never overwater them. Only give them water when their soil is dry to the touch. 

An overwatered succulent can get root rot, which is a condition caused by constantly soggy soil. The plant’s roots will be unable to get access to oxygen, which the plant needs to survive. Eventually, the roots will drown and die. 

The dead roots will then become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens, such as fungi and bacteria. These pathogens will cause the rot to spread even faster through the rest of the plant, and before you know it the entire plant will be affected and could die.

Always check that the pot’s drainage holes are sufficient because this is where any excess water will flow out.

When watering your succulents, make sure that you allow the soil to dry out first before watering it again.

If you have fast-growing succulents, do not be scared to prune them so that they do not take over your garden too quickly.

Conclusion

USDA hardiness zone 6 has a minimum average temperature, during the winter season, of -10 to 0 degrees Fahrenheit. There are several zone 6 regions whose temperatures can drop -5 degrees Fahrenheit, and this constitutes a large part of the United States.

There are many succulents that can adapt to zone 6 climates. Despite most being native to arid regions of the world, they can actually survive winter climates when they need to.

If you are living in a zone 6 area and you wish to start collecting and growing succulents, be sure only to plant succulents that can handle zone 6 climates so that they do not get stressed by the winter conditions.

Aloes are some of the most popular succulents in the world because of how hardy they are and how easy they are to grow and care for.

But while aloes are great low-maintenance starter plants, that does not mean they do not have their fair share of common problems.

One of the most common aloe problems is when they turn white.

The different causes of an aloe turning white include a lack of sunlight, too much sunlight, too much water, temperature changes, too many minerals, using the wrong kind of soil, and pests.

In this article, we will discuss all of the possible reasons your aloe plant is turning white, and what you can do to fix it.

So, if you are currently experiencing this problem and you wish to learn more, just keep reading.

Why is my aloe plant turning white?

Lack of sunlight

Aloes are succulents that are native to some of the driest, most arid places on earth, so they are used to getting plenty of bright, direct sunlight on a daily basis. In fact, they thrive in these environments.

If you are keeping your aloe indoors away from a window, or under the shade of a large tree that only allows dappled sunlight to pass through, your aloe will become weak and start to get paler in color.

The discoloration is often first observed in the center of the plant, and you may also notice the leaves growing longer and thinner as well. This is a phenomenon called etiolation, which happens when a plant gets so little light that it starts to concentrate its remaining resources on growing longer leaves to try to reach the nearest source of light.

Essentially, the plant is so desperate for light that it is physically reaching out to it.

Etiolation does not harm the plant, but it does change its overall aesthetic because it upsetsets the usual symmetry of the leaf rosette.

Aloes like to have six hours of sunlight every day, so if you keep your plant indoors, it is best to keep it near a window.

Remedy

If your plant is turning white because of a lack of sunlight, transfer it to a different location as soon as possible. Simply move it to where it will get at least six hours of sunlight every day. 

If you are keeping it indoors, move it to a north-east facing window. Refrain from placing it near a south-facing window because those tend to let in very harsh sunlight. If the only available windows in your home are letting in harsh light, you can place a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the light.

If you put the plant outdoors, you can place it on a porch or a patio so that it still gets a few hours of shade each day.

If you live in an apartment that does not get much natural light, or if you live in a place where sunlight is scarce during winter, this may also cause the plant to turn white, and you can help it out by using a grow light.

Plants cannot really differentiate between artificial light and natural light; it is all the same to them and both can keep them alive. Of course, natural sunlight is still best, but a grow light will do just fine as an alternative.

Too much light

If the white discoloration looks more like patches on the leaves, it might be because the plant is getting too much sunlight.

Yes, aloes do like to get some sunlight because this is how it is in their natural habitat, but that does not mean you can leave them under bright, direct sunlight the entire day.

Sunburn can be common in aloes that have spent their lives indoors and are suddenly transferred to the outdoors without being properly acclimatized.

The same can happen to a plant that was growing in a colder climate and is suddenly moved to a place with a significantly hotter climate.

Such drastic changes in light exposure can be too much for your aloe’s foliage, resulting in the white patches on its leaves.

Remedy

If you have been keeping the plant in a spot where it is getting too much sunlight, you need to transfer it to a shadier spot immediately.

Partial shade is ideal, so that the plant can still get the light it needs. Indoors near a window will work, to help the plant recover while also not depriving it of the light it needs to survive.

Remember not to place it near a south-facing window unless you place a sheer curtain over the window.

If you are planning to transfer an indoor plant to your outdoor garden, make the move gradual. On the first day, place the plant outdoors for one hour and then bring it back to its original spot. The following day, try leaving the plant outdoors for one-and-a-half hours. Continue adding a half hour every day to introduce the plant to the outdoors.

After a few weeks of acclimatizing the plant, it should have adjusted sufficiently to its new lighting conditions and you can then leave it outdoors for good without worrying about it.

Too much water

Another reason your aloe is turning white could be that it is overwatered. Overwatering can happen if you give the plant too much water every time you water it, if you water it more often than you need to, if the soil in the pot is too dense and poorly-draining, or if the pot you are using does not have drainage holes at the bottom.

Remember that aloes are succulents that are used to living in the driest environments, and they can absorb and store plenty of water in their leaves for use in the event of drought. This is why they do not need to be watered as often as other types of houseplants.

When an aloe is overwatered, its leaves will take in too much water and will start to become paler, eventually turning yellow, soft and mushy. The white spots may develop due to the ruptured cells in the leaves. The spots start out white, but become brown and will spread if the problem is not resolved in time.

Another serious consequence of overwatering is root rot. Root rot happens when the plant’s soil is constantly wet, so that the roots are never able to dry out properly. Plants’ roots need to be able to dry out between waterings so that they can have access to oxygen.

If the roots stand in wet soil for extended periods of time, they will drown and die, and the dead roots will be susceptible to opportunistic pathogens.

These pathogens, mostly fungi and bacteria, will infect the plant and make the rot spread more aggressively throughout the plant. This can lead to the death of your aloe if you are unable to catch the root rot in its early stages.

Remedy

If you think your aloe is overwatered, stop watering it immediately and let the soil dry out completely before you water it again.

If you want to check whether the plant has root rot, remove it from its pot and wash off as much of the old soil as you can. Inspect the roots and look for sections that have turned brown or black. These roots are rotten and will have to be removed.

Use a sterile pair of scissors to cut off the rotten roots until only healthy, white roots remain.

Place the plant on a dry paper towel to allow the roots to dry out for several hours.

Prepare a new pot that has sufficient drainage holes, fill it two-thirds of the way with well-draining succulent potting mix, place the plant in the middle of the pot, and cover the roots with the rest of the potting mix.

Make sure that none of the leaves get buried in the potting mix because they will decompose under the soil.

Avoid overwatering the plant by understanding when it needs water. You can tell this by touching the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking it again. There is no set number of days to wait before watering the plant, because factors like climate and season can affect its need for water.

Temperature changes

Another possible reason your aloe is turning white is due to changes in temperature.

If you are keeping your plant outdoors and the temperature suddenly dips below freezing, it can damage your plant.

Remedy

Unfortunately, leaves that are damaged by temperature changes are permanently discolored and will need to be removed. Before pruning the plant, take it inside the house where the temperature is more stable and constant. Use a sterile pair of scissors or a knife to remove the damaged leaves.

If you keep your plant outdoors, make sure you are monitoring the temperature so that you know when to take it inside. In this case, it is also important to gradually acclimatize the plant by slowly increasing the time it spends indoors every day, so that it does not get transplant stress.

And, as much as frost and cold weather can dry out and kill your plant, so can hot air. Do not keep your indoor plant near a radiator or a heater, because the hot air will dehydrate it.

Also keep it out of the path of air conditioners, because the cold air from these can also dry the plant out.

Do not place your indoor aloe near windows or doors, because these are another source of cold drafts that can dry the plant out.

Too many minerals

If you are fertilizing your aloe more than you need to, it can cause a buildup of salt on the top layer of the soil.

Potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen are essential to the life processes of the plant, but these minerals can become mineral salts due to chemical activity caused by soil microbes that can also come from the fertilizer.

The white buildup that you might have seen on top of the roots is the crusty salt buildup from too much fertilizer use.

Tap water can also be a source of unwanted minerals in the soil. It contains chlorine and fluoride.

A lack of nitrogen in the soil can also result in low chlorophyll, which is another reason your aloe may turn white.

Remedy

The first thing you need to do is to scrape off the salt buildup with your fingernails or with an old spoon.

To remove the built-up salt in the potting mix, the best thing to do is flush the soil with an amount of water five times the volume of your pot. This will wash out any excess minerals that might be in the soil.

The best way to avoid a salt build-up in the future is to fertilize the plant only when absolutely necessary. Succulents do not really need to be fertilized because all the nutrients they need are in their potting mix. Only fertilize your aloe if its growth is stunted and you want to help it out. Once a year in the spring is ideal, because this is when the plant is actively growing.

If you have access to rainwater, this is the best water to use on your plants, but if not, you can use filtered or distilled water.

Using the wrong kind of soil

If you have ruled out all the causes listed above and still do not know what is causing your aloe to turn white, the problem may be your potting mix.

Aloes, being succulents, do not do well in regular potting soil. They need to be planted in a succulent potting mix that is well-draining, airy and porous.

Remedy

The best thing to do in this case is to replace the potting mix.

Two days before you repot the plant, water the soil so that the plant is happy and the soil is loose and moist.

Remove the plant from the old pot and shake off the old potting soil. Inspect the roots and prune off any sections that have turned brown or black.

Repot the aloe in a pot that has drainage holes and use a succulent potting mix that is specially designed for these types of plants.

You can also make your own succulent mix by combining three parts regular potting soil with one part perlite and one part coarse sand.

Pests

Succulents do not normally attract pests, but if they are overwatered, bugs might take up residence on the plant because the damp soil is a source of drinking water for them and also a great place to reproduce.

The most common pests observed on aloes are spider mites, scale insects and mealybugs.

These bugs also feed on the sap inside the leaves of the plant, causing spots to appear on it. 

Some of these bugs also appear white from afar, especially when they are clustered together under the leaves.

Remedy

Before treating the plant, take it far away from your healthy plants. This will quarantine the plant and help avoid the spread of the pests.

You can use a strong stream of water from a garden hose to knock the pests off the plant, or you can spray them with rubbing alcohol or a mixture of water and neem oil.

Repeat the process once a week for as long as there are still pests on the plant.

Conclusion

Aloes are some of the most popular houseplants in the world because they are low-maintenance and very easy to grow and care for. They are extremely hardy and have very few problems, which makes them great starter plants.

One of the most common aloe problems is when they turn white.

The possible reasons your aloe is turning white include a lack of sunlight, too much sunlight, too much water, temperature changes, too many minerals, using the wrong kind of soil, or pests.

Image: istockphoto.com / Owner

You might assume that a cactus that is several feet tall must be older than another one that is only a few inches tall, but this is not a good way to estimate a cactus’ age.

Unlike a tree, which has annual rings that can tell you how old it is, cacti do not have this feature to help you tell their age.

The best you can do is rely on other factors to give you an estimate of a cactus’ age. These include the size and the height of the cactus relative to its species, the number of areoles, and the cactus’ growing conditions.

In this article, we will discuss how to accurately estimate the age of a cactus. If you have a cactus that has been in your family a long time and you want to know how old it is, keep reading and let us try to figure it out together.

Why does a cactus not have growth rings?

Cacti do not have growth rings because, unlike trees, they have tissue that stores water to help keep them alive. This surrounds bundles of vascular tissue found in the very center of the cactus.

The rings on trees are lignified vascular tissue that increment each year. Cacti do not have this, probably because of their dry living environments.

Trees in subtropical and temperate latitudes have more pronounced growth rings because the seasonal changes also cause a change in the trees’ speed of growth. This is because there is a big difference in water availability between the rainy and dry seasons, as well as the difference in temperature between winter and spring.

Trees grow more during the rainy season and significantly less over dry periods, and the contrast in cell wall thickness can be observed in the growth rings.

How to tell the age of a cactus

The water the cactus receives in its habitat 

One main factor that can help estimate the age of a cactus is the amount of precipitation it receives.

Some cacti that live in environments with lots of rain, like the prickly pear cactus, grow quite quickly and will outgrow their space in a fairly short time.

Compare those cacti to the ones that grow in deserts, where they only get around three inches of rain in a year. These water-deprived cacti can grow very slowly.

Size or height of the cactus

There are thousands of cactus species that are native to different parts of the world. Each of these has a different speed of growth.

Each cactus species needs to be studied for multiple years to correctly determine how much it grows in a year. 

Typically, the columnar type of cactus will grow more in a year than a barrel cactus. An example of a columnar cactus is the Saguaro Cactus, which can be around 16 feet when it is a hundred years old. A Golden Barrel Cactus, on the other hand, is only around eight feet tall at a hundred years old.

On the assumption that Saguaro Cacti grow around eight inches per year, a 78-foot-tall Saguaro Cactus would be around 150 years old.

The size and height of a cactus can be a good gauge for age, but there simply is not enough data to prove that this is an accurate method.

This method might be quite accurate for the Saguaro Cactus, but the same cannot necessarily be said for other cactus species.

The number of areoles on the cactus

Another method that some people use to determine the age of a cactus is the number of areoles on the plant.

An areole on a cactus is where its clusters of thorns grow from, and is also where flowers or even a new arm will sprout from.

Younger thorns less than a year old are red in color. These thorns will grow row by row, so that those at the top are younger than those found at the bottom.

The number of arms

This method is usually used for column-type cacti. Some people use the number of thorny arms branching from the cactus’ main stem to indicate the age of the cactus.

The Saguaro Cactus, for example, will not start to grow arms until it is at least 70 years old. As an estimate, a Saguaro Cactus that has one fully-grown arm is around 100 years old. When the cactus has multiple fully-grown arms and even flowers, it is typically assumed to be at least 150 years old.

Unfortunately, this method cannot be applied to cacti that do not grow arms. 

Can a cactus die from old age?

Cacti are very difficult to kill, which is also why they are one of the very few types of plants that can survive in the kinds of environments where they grow.

Some cacti that are estimated to be over 150 years old are not even considered fully-grown yet. These cacti can live to be over 200 years old.

Cacti are more likely to die due to damage from the elements or animals than from old age.

Conclusion

Accurately determining the age of a cactus can be difficult if you do not have access to high-end technology in a laboratory that specializes in these plants.

However, you can try estimating the age of a cactus by considering a few factors that can give you a ballpark estimate.

These factors include the amount of precipitation the cactus receives in a year, the size and height of the plant, the number of areoles, and the number of arms on the cactus.

These factors may not provide you with as close a guess as the rings on a tree might, but they are a good means of estimating the number of decades a cactus has been alive.

Image: istockphoto.com / Boyloso

One of the common problems encountered by cactus owners is when their succulents start to grow skinnier than normal.

 The reason this is happening to your cactus can either be that it is not getting the amount of light that it needs every day, or that it was unable to go into dormancy over the winter.

In this article, we will go deeper into the reasons your cactus is becoming skinny, how to remedy the situation, and what you can do to prevent this from happening.

If you are currently experiencing this problem and you wish to know more about it, then just keep reading.

Why is my cactus growing skinny?

The correct term to use when describing a skinny plant is etiolated, a condition wherein the cactus has started to become skinny and has also gotten paler.

The first and most probable reason for etiolation is that the cactus is not getting enough sunlight every day.

Remember that cacti are native to some of the hottest, driest and most arid regions of the world and they are adapted to being under the sun for many hours a day. Even though they can also grow well indoors, they need a certain amount of light in order to reach their full potential.

If your plant is deprived of the light that it needs, it will start to etiolate. Its stem will grow faster, and first that may seem like the plant is growing well and there is no cause for concern.

Unfortunately, however, this is actually a bad sign for your cactus, because the quick growth also means that the stem is growing skinny, pointy and pale. These are not qualities that you would want to see in a healthy cactus.

Etiolation commonly happens when a cactus has grown for several months or years outside your house and you transfer it indoors without giving it enough time to adjust to its new living conditions.

The cactus will use all of its remaining resources to grow long, thin stems in the direction of the closest source of light, just so it can continue surviving. These new stems will be so skinny that they may have the appearance of antennae growing at the ends of the cactus’ pads.

Another possible reason your cactus is growing skinny is due to temperature. If the temperature outside is starting to become quite warm, the plant will want to be exposed to more light as well, since winter is over and the plant will no longer be dormant.

If you fail to move the cactus outside despite the warmer weather, it will become etiolated and skinny, so make sure you keep a close eye on your cactus and take it outdoors to get more light even before winter officially ends. Do not wait for the plant to wake up from dormancy before moving it back outside.

Finally, the cactus may be growing skinny because it was not able to go dormant over winter.

This happens when you fail to change the way you care for it according to the season.

During the winter, bringing the cactus indoors is the right thing to do because the freezing temperatures may be enough to kill it. Also take care not to overwater your plants during winter, because a dormant cactus will barely need any water at all. If you still water it the way you do during the spring or summer, but you are not giving it the light it needs, it will fail to go dormant and this will also stunt its growth.

What is the right way to care for a dormant cactus indoors?

If you continue giving the plant water even during the winter, it will start growing thin stems. And, as we have learned, this is not great for your cactus.

The best thing to do is completely refrain from watering the cactus for a month to a month and a half during the winter, and place the plant in a cold spot where it can go into dormancy without any interference.

How to fix a skinny cactus

If you have a cactus that has already grown skinny, you will not be able to reverse the skinny growth and make them normal.

If you do not remove the skinny parts and just leave them be, your cactus could become top-heavy and fall over or snap in half once a normal stem has grown on top of the skinny stem. 

In order for the cactus not to snap in two, cut off the skinny stems and use them to propagate the plant. It is best to do this during the summer, when the plant is in its active growth phase and the newly propagated stems will grow fast and well.

After cutting the skinny stems off your cactus, move the plant outdoors so that it can start getting the sunlight it needs. If you live in an apartment, place the plant on a windowsill so it can still get as much light as possible while indoors.

While it is important that your plant gets the sunlight it needs, remember that too much light can cause sunburn, so be vigilant and do not overexpose your cactus.

In order for your cactus to get adequate light on all sides, rotate the plant every couple of days so that all sides get their time in the light.

If the light coming through your window is not enough, you can also buy a grow light to support your cactus with artificial light. Plants use artificial light in the same way they do natural sunlight, so do not worry about any ill effects on your cactus.

How to replant your broken cactus

If you were unable to catch your cactus before it broke, you can easily replant it.

Get the broken cactus piece and leave it in a shaded room for about a week at room temperature. After a week, the broken end will have become callused and you are now ready to replant it.

Prepare a new pot or container that will give the cactus a quarter of an inch of space between it and the edge of the pot. Make sure the pot has drainage holes at the bottom so that any excess water can easily flow out and reduce the chances of overwatering.

Fill the container about two-thirds with succulent soil and plant the cactus in the middle before filling the pot with the rest of the soil. Pat the soil down around the plant until it is stable.

How to care for your replanted cactus

The three factors that you need to remember when caring for a cactus are temperature, water and light. If you are not able to find the perfect balance of these three elements, it may lead to the death of your cactus, which is not what we want.

Place your newly-replanted cactus on the windowsill and allow it to sit there for two to four weeks without watering.

After two weeks, check the soil in the pot and, if it is dry to the touch, water the plant.

Do not water it again until it has established roots, which should take around two more weeks. You can check for roots by giving the cactus a gentle tug. If there is resistance to your tug, it means that the roots have grown nicely.

When it comes to watering your plant, adjust the volume and the frequency of watering according to the season and the current weather conditions where you live.

If the climate and weather are cold, you might want to lessen the frequency of watering because the soil will not dry out as quickly as in hotter climates.

Conclusion

Your cactus is growing skinny because it is etiolated, meaning it is not getting as much light as it needs, so it is growing long, skinny limbs to reach towards the closest source of light.

You can fix a skinny cactus by cutting off the skinny stems and using them to propagate the plant. Do not allow the skinny stems to continue growing, because this can lead to a broken succulent.

To avoid skinny succulents, make sure that your plants get all the light they need and that you are watering them correctly.

Image: istockphoto.com / greenleaf123

The most common reason your lithops are shriveling is that they are underwatered.

Signs that your lithops are underwatered include horizontal wrinkles across the plant and if it looks shriveled. Underwatering can be a result either of not giving your plants as much water as they need each time you water them, or leaving the plants out under the sun for too long so that the soil dries out too quickly.

Other reasons your lithops are shriveling may be overwatering, or simply because your plants are trying to grow new leaves.

In this article, we will discuss more the different reasons your lithops may be shriveling and how you can fix this. So, if you are experiencing this problem and wish to learn more about it, just keep on reading.

Why are my lithops shriveling?

Underwatering

Your lithops are most probably shriveling due to you underwatering them. You will be able to tell if you have underwatered your lithops because they will look shriveled and there will be horizontal wrinkles on the top of the plant. The wrinkles will look like waves drawn across the plant.

Underwatering can be a result of you not giving the plant the water that it needs or leaving it out under the sun for long periods, which causes the soil in the pot to dry out faster than the plant would like.

Succulents have the ability to store water in their leaves which they can use in the event of a drought. This means they can go weeks without water, but that does not mean you can simply neglect to water them entirely.

The ideal watering frequency for your lithops is not constant; you need to adjust it according to the climate where you live as well as the season of the year. Lithops will not need as much water during the fall and winter as they will during spring and summer. 

Temperatures are higher and the sun shines brighter during the spring and summer, which means that the plants’ soil will dry out much faster. Conversely, the cold weather during the fall and winter will allow the soil in the pot to stay damp for longer, so you will not need to water the plants as often. Lithops also become semi-dormant during the colder months and will not be actively growing, so they will not use up as much water.

Overwatering

Another reason your lithops are shriveling could be that you are overwatering them.

A healthy lithops plant will have plump, taut leaves, so if there are wrinkles and waves on the leaves, that means that there is something wrong with your plant that you will need to address before it becomes too serious.

As we mentioned above, an underwatered lithops plant has horizontal wrinkles on its leaves. An overwatered lithops, on the other hand, have vertical wrinkles on its leaves.

Yellowing leaves that are soft and mushy to the touch is the first and most obvious sign that you are overwatering your plant. This is a result of you not allowing the plant to dry out between waterings.

Another sign that your lithops are overwatered is when there are brown spots on the leaves. If you do not notice the yellowing of the leaves, the next sign will be brown spots due to edema. This can happen to most houseplants when they are overwatered, but since succulents are more sensitive to overwatering, it is more commonly observed in them.

Edema happens when there is too much water in the soil around the plant’s roots and the plant cannot help but keep absorbing the available moisture. This leads to the plant taking in more water than it can actually store in its leaves.

The roots keep drinking water that the plant cannot use up fast enough, and eventually the cells in the plant tissue run out of space and the membranes in the tissue burst, which is what creates the edematous brown spots on the lithops’ leaves.

Splitting is another sign of overwatering. Because of the overload of water in the leaf, the leaf can literally split as it tries to compensate for the large volume of water. The split in the leaf will look like a jagged cut on the surface.

One condition that can mean life or death for your lithops, and is also due to overwatering, is root rot.

Root rot happens when the soil in the plant’s pot is not allowed to dry out between waterings, and the waterlogged soil causes the plant’s roots to drown and die. The dead roots become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens like bacteria and fungi, and these will make the rot in the roots more aggressive until the entire plant is afflicted with rot.

If you do not catch root rot immediately, it can also cause the roots of your succulents to disintegrate. 

Remedy

If you suspect that your lithops are overwatered, the first thing you need to do is to immediately stop watering them.

Remove the plants from their old pot and wash off as much of the old soil as possible from the roots. Do this gently, as the roots can be fragile and easily damaged.

Inspect the roots and see if there are sections that have turned brown or black. These roots are rotten and will need to be pruned off with a sterile knife or scissors. Make sure that only healthy, white roots remain. Place the lithops on a dry paper towel and allow them to air dry for several hours.

Prepare a new pot that has drainage holes at the bottom, and fill it two-thirds of the way with a well-draining potting mix. Place your lithops in the middle of the pot and cover the roots with the rest of the potting mix.

If the new potting mix is still damp, do not water your newly-repotted lithops yet.

What is the correct way to water my lithops?

As mentioned above, be more vigilant about the water in the soil during the warmer months, because the soil will dry out more quickly in the heat.

The best way to know whether your plant needs to be watered is to feel the top of the soil.

If the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Make sure you only water the soil around the roots and never water your plants from above. Water can get caught between the leaves and this can lead to fungal growth that could negatively affect the plants.

If you are able to collect rainwater, that is the ideal type of water to use. If you do not have access to rainwater, you can use distilled or filtered water. Tap water contains minerals that will accumulate in the soil and could be detrimental to the roots’ health.

If you see leaves splitting on a plant, do not water it; the plant will simply use up the water from these damaged leaves to recover or to produce new leaves.

How much water should I give my lithops?

When the soil in your lithops’ pot is completely dry, give it a good drink. Bottom watering is a great option because it provides water directly to the roots so you do not risk getting water onto the plant’s leaves.

You will know that bottom watering is done when the moisture has reached the top level of the soil. Remove the pot from the water source immediately when you see moisture in the top layers of soil, and let any excess water drip out so that the soil does not retain it.

When top watering, you will know you have given the right amount of water when the excess water drains out of the bottom of the pot.

Is it normal for my lithops’ leaves to shrivel?

If you are sure that you are neither underwatering nor overwatering your lithops, then the shriveling may be due to another reason entirely.

Your lithops could be trying to grow new leaves. This is a definite possibility, especially if the shriveling happens during the plants’ growing period in the spring.

In this case, the old leaves on your lithops are shriveling to make space for the new leaves to grow into.

You have the option of removing the old leaves yourself, but be gentle about it. You can also just leave the old leaves to fall off on their own.

So, if it is the plant’s growing season and you know that your plant is being watered properly, then the leaves are most probably only falling off because they are getting old.

Conclusion

The most common reason your lithops’ leaves are shriveling is because of underwatering. If your plants are not getting the water they need, especially during the warmer months, their leaves will dry out, shrivel and develop horizontal wrinkles.

Other reasons your lithops might shrivel include overwatering, or the plants’ natural process of getting rid of older leaves to make room for new leaves.

Image: istockphoto.com / PitchyPix

Sedum Gold Moss is a great succulent for beginners who are just starting to expand their collection. This plant is hardy and low-maintenance, perfect for busy people or those who are afraid that caring for a plant is too much responsibility.

Succulents are resilient plants that can survive neglect and drought, so you should not be scared of growing these plants.

In this article, we will discuss how to care for Sedum Gold Moss, as well as how to properly propagate it. So, if you are thinking about adding this succulent to your collection and wish to learn more about it, just keep reading.

What is Sedum Gold Moss?

Sedum Gold Moss is also called Sedum acre or mossy stonecrop. It is a versatile succulent that grows well in gritty and sandy soil, making it a good choice for a rock garden.

This is a low-growing succulent that makes a great groundcover; it will simply tumble over rocks and other fixtures you might add to your garden.

Most gardeners agree that this plant is very simple to grow and care for, and it also looks great next to your other plants.

The leaves of Sedum Gold Moss are quite small and resemble spikes. The gold in its name is due to its flowerhead, which is covered with small, yellow star-shaped flowers when it blooms.

This succulent is native to New Zealand, Japan, North America and parts of Europe. As you can see, it is a hardy succulent that can tolerate colder climates.

Sedum Gold Moss: Care

Light requirements

If your Sedum Gold Moss gets a minimum of six hours of full sunlight every day, it will maintain a beautiful reddish-orange tint on its leaves.

This plant thrives outdoors under direct sunlight and it will not be as happy indoors, even if you have several grow lights around it. It will always favor actual sunlight.

Some people even place their Sedum Gold Moss on their roofs, where they can get blasted with unobstructed sunlight for the entire day. They are kept in this spot until the middle of autumn when they are taken indoors and placed near an east-facing window all the way through winter.

Even if the plant does enjoy full, direct sunlight, do not expose it immediately after bringing it home from the store or nursery. You need to gradually acclimatize the plant to more and more hours under the sun every day until eventually, you can leave it outdoors the whole time. Allow the plant to adjust slowly to its new environment because a failure to acclimatize it to sunlight can lead to sun-damaged foliage.

Soil requirements

Sedums like their soil to be well-draining so that it does not become waterlogged or soggy. A combination of brick chunks, river sand, gravel, and limestone would be gritty enough to satisfy these plants.

Loose soil, rather than dense or compact, and with non-organic components is best. If the potting mix includes even just a quarter of organic materials such as compost, mulch or peat, that should be fine.

Regular potting soil will not work for your Sedum Gold Moss; it is too dense and may have a high clay component. An easy way to check whether the soil is appropriate is simply to compress the soil in your fist: if it forms a clump, the soil may be too compact.

Sedums also like their soil more alkaline, but they seem adaptable enough to do fine with any pH level, as long as the soil is well-draining.

Water requirements

The amount of water your Sedum Gold Moss will need, as well as the frequency of watering, will depend on the plant’s current stage of life. Its requirements when it is a small, recently-propagated plant will be different from when it is a fully mature plant.

Remember that Sedums are succulents and they are able to withstand drought because of their ability to store water in their leaves and stems. What they are sensitive to, as are most succulents, is overwatering.

When your Sedum Gold Moss is around one or two years old, you can water it using the drench and dry method, which means that when the top two inches of soil are bone dry to the touch, you need to drench all of the soil in the pot to the point that excess water is flowing out through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. The number of days between waterings is irrelevant, as long as you check the dryness of the soil before watering.

During the summer this may be as often as twice a week, but in colder weather when the soil dries out much more slowly, you might only need to water it every two weeks. The drench and dry method are foolproof as long as the soil is well-draining and there are sufficient drainage holes in the pot.

If you have a fully-grown, properly mature Sedum Gold Moss growing in your rock garden, you do not really even need to water it. If it is growing outdoors and is sufficiently established, the plant will begin to grow as it pleases and will be more than capable of getting water from the ground and the rain. Of course, if you see that the soil has been dry for a little too long, you can still help the plant out by watering it, especially during the warmer months of the year.

Temperature requirements

Sedum Gold Moss, as with most Sedum varieties, is hardy and can tolerate temperature extremes, especially cold. It does quite well in warm climates as well, because of its ability to store water.

It can survive both high heat and temperatures as low as -30 degrees Fahrenheit. Even if you grow the plant in your outdoor garden and it gets buried in snow during the winter, it will be able to survive.

In fact, Sedum Gold Moss tends to show its most vibrant colors when it is subjected to temperature extremes. When the plant is in the snow throughout winter, its new sprouts in the spring will have some very interesting hues.

Fertilizer requirements

Sedum Gold Moss does not really need to be fertilized to thrive. If you do want to help the plant out with fertilizer, make sure you are using a fertilizer that is designed specifically for succulents. Fertilize the plant once a month, only during the growing season in early spring, and dilute the recommended concentration to about a fourth.

Do not fertilize the plant if it is less than a year old. It is best to make sure it is stable and its roots well established before you encourage a growth spurt.

Potting requirements

You can keep this plant in a pot or container, but it will thrive best if it is planted outdoors in a rock garden.

If you do want to plant it in a container, make sure it is not made of plastic because, as discussed, this plant likes its roots to dry out quickly between waterings and plastic containers lock moisture into the soil a little too well.

Use a container made of terracotta, for example, because this material allows water and moisture to escape much faster. Make sure the container has enough drainage holes at the bottom. If the holes are too big, the loose soil may start running out, so check that the holes are the right size to prevent this.

You can also place some broken terracotta pot pieces at the bottom of the pot around the drainage holes before you put any potting mix in.

How fast does Sedum Gold Moss grow?

This plant is called Gold Moss because it grows very similarly to how moss would grow: low to the ground and tangled up. It will actively cover the ground while growing to an average height of only four inches.

Because this plant does not grow tall, it grows sideways instead, and quickly, too. At around a year old, a Sedum Gold Moss plant can be around a foot in diameter.

How to propagate Sedum Gold Moss

Sedum Gold Moss takes quite well to propagation using seed, stem cuttings or fallen leaves. Out of all three methods, the easiest for beginners is using stem cuttings, because it has the highest success rate.

To propagate your Sedum Gold Moss, choose a stem from the plant that is sufficiently long and has aerial roots on it. Use a sterile pair of scissors to cut off two to three inches of the stem.

Leave the cutting to callus on a dry paper towel for a day. The thinner the stem, the faster it will callus.

The following day, stick the stem cuttings in moistened succulent potting mix. Potting mix that contains peat-sand or peat-perlite is best.

Water the soil where the cuttings are planted, enough to keep the potting mix always slightly moist.

After a couple of weeks, the plant will have established roots, which you can check by gently tugging on it. If there is noticeable resistance from the plant, the roots have grown in nicely and you can now start to increase the plant’s exposure to sunlight and to water it only when the soil’s top two inches are dry to the touch.

After three months, you can move the plant to a sunnier area, but just make sure you gradually introduce it to more and more sunlight so that it does not get burnt.

Do not propagate the plant during the fall or winter. Do so during the spring and summer when it is actively growing, because this will help it recover more quickly.

Conclusion

Sedum Gold Moss is a low-maintenance succulent that is hardy to cold temperatures and can also be resilient in warmer climates.

This plant is quite easy to grow and care for: it just wants to be grown outdoors where it can get plenty of light. Water the mature plant only when the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch.

Plant your Sedum Gold Moss in succulent soil that is well-draining, in a pot made of terracotta, so that any excess water will simply flow out and lessen the chances of overwatering.

Propagating the Sedum Gold Moss is very easy, especially if you use stem cuttings from a mother plant. Simply cut off a cutting and let it callus. The next day, plant the cutting in a new container, in well-draining soil and with drainage holes at the bottom of the container.

The cutting should grow new roots after a few weeks and you can then transfer them to a larger pot or into your outdoor garden. 

This plant is very beginner-friendly, so if you are looking for a low-maintenance plant that is easy to grow and care for, this might be the plant for you.

Image: istockphoto.com / GettyTim82

The most common reason your succulent is turning pink is that it is undergoing a certain level of stress. The stress that causes this change in color can be due to something as simple as neglecting to water the plant for a few days, or the plant getting a little more sunlight than it is used to.

Of course, there are stressors that can be harmful to your plant in the long run, especially if you do not resolve the problem in time.

In this article, we will discuss the various reasons your succulent is turning pink and how you can remedy it. So, if you are experiencing this problem and you wish to learn more, just keep reading.

Why is my succulent turning pink?

If your succulent turns pink, you might become quite worried, fearing that the plant may be dying.

Succulents turn pink as a response to stressors in their environment. Being some of the most hardy and resilient houseplants, it generally takes quite a lot to stress them enough to cause color changes in their foliage.

What you need to remember is that succulents adapt to their environments, and when there are sudden changes to any aspects of these environments or to their care, they will react, because they do not take well to sudden change.

The most common stressors that cause succulents to turn pink are too much sunlight, not enough sunlight, improper watering, root rot, changes in temperature, and nutrient deficiency.

Too much sunlight

One of the most common reasons your succulent may turn pink is that it is suddenly getting more light than it is used to, resulting in sunburn.

This sunburn will manifest as a pink color in the foliage. This often happens to succulents that have been indoors for months and are suddenly transferred to the outdoor garden. The intense light on the succulent’s leaves can come as quite a shock to the plant.

Another way your succulent can get sunburned is if it is placed too close to a glass window and the glass magnifies the sun’s rays before they hit the plant’s foliage. This is common for plants placed in south-facing windows.

Remedy

To fix this discoloration due to too much sunlight, transfer your plant to a different spot where it can only get indirect light for six hours a day, such as a patio or one foot away from a west-facing window.

If you are planning on transferring an indoor plant to your outdoor garden, gradually acclimatize the plant by steadily increasing the number of hours the plant stays under the sun every day. Continue the acclimatization until the plant has fully adapted to its new surroundings.

If you allow your succulent time to get used to more and more light over a few days, it will not get sun damaged and you should be able to retain its green color.

Not enough light

Another common cause of a succulent turning pink is when it does not get as much light as it needs every day.

Certain succulents, such as some cacti, produce anthocyanins when they are stressed from inadequate light. Anthocyanin is a purple pigment which, when mixed with the green chlorophyll pigment, will result in the pinkish color that you see on the plant’s leaves.

Remember that succulents need sunlight to thrive and to function normally. Without it, they cannot perform photosynthesis and thus cannot produce their own food.

Remedy

It is quite simple to fix the discoloration of a succulent that is not getting enough light. You just need to relocate it to a spot where it can get the bright, indirect light that it needs every day.

Overwatering

Another reason your succulent is turning pink is because it is receiving too much water.

This may be because you are giving it more water than it needs each time you water it, or because you are watering it more frequently than you need to. Either way, this leads to overwatering which will then lead to root rot.

Root rot is a condition resulting from the plant’s roots constantly standing in waterlogged soil, until they drown and die. The dead roots will begin to rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens such as fungi and bacteria. These pathogens will cause the rot to become more aggressive, until eventually the entire plant is affected and succumbs.

Signs that your plant is overwatered include the leaves turning yellow, pink, red and brown, and becoming soft and mushy to the touch.

Overwatering can also be due to the incorrect potting mix. Succulents like a potting mix that is porous and airy, to allow water and air to flow through it with ease. Also, if the pot you use has no drainage holes at the bottom, this can also cause excess water to stagnate and may lead to root rot.

Remedy

If you suspect that your succulent is turning pink due to overwatering, you must immediately stop watering your plant.

Remove the plant from its pot and wash off as much of the old soil as you can from the roots. Do this gently so you do not damage the fragile roots. Inspect all of the roots and, if there are any sections that have turned brown or black, prune them off using sterile scissors.

Then, lay the plant down on a dry paper towel and allow it to air-dry for several hours.

Prepare a new pot that has drainage holes at the bottom and fill it two-thirds with fresh potting mix that is specifically designed for succulents.

Place the plant in the middle of the soil and fill the pot the rest of the way with more potting mix. Tap the soil gently around the plant’s roots.

Do not water the soil; it will be slightly moist already. Wait at least a week before watering the newly-potted plant.

To avoid overwatering, check the top two inches of soil with your finger before you water your plant. If the soil is dry, water it, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

Underwatering

Underwatering may not be as destructive as overwatering, but it can definitely be a cause of your succulent turning pink.

When a succulent is not getting the water it needs, its foliage will turn pink, then purple, before finally turning brown. The leaves will dry out and become wrinkled and crispy.

Remedy

Fortunately, it is much easier to fix an underwatered succulent than an overwatered one. 

You will need to drench and dry the succulent to get it back to normal. When the soil in the plant’s pot is bone dry, water it five times with an amount of water equivalent to the volume of the plant’s pot.

After the soil has been drenched, do not water it again until the top two inches feel dry to the touch.

Regular watering of a succulent entails only watering it when the soil is dry. This will help you avoid both overwatering and underwatering your plant.

Changes in temperature

Another reason your succulent is turning pink may be that you are exposing it to a temperature significantly higher than it is used to.

This can be due to the plant getting direct, unfiltered sunlight, or being placed close to a radiator, or being in a spot where the heater hits it directly with warm air.

This heat stress will cause the plant to release anthocyanin which, as described above, is a purplish pigment that looks pink when mixed with the plant’s chlorophyll.

Too much heat can cause tissue damage to your succulent, and this damaged tissue will result in faulty photosynthesis and lead to further discoloration.

In the same way, placing the plant where it gets hit by cold air, such as near an air conditioner or near a door or window that lets in cold drafts, will also lead to temperature stress and cause pink discoloration.

Remedy

To fix any discoloration caused by temperature changes, simply transfer your plant to where it will not be exposed to too much heat or cold.

The best place to keep an indoor succulent is a room with a temperature between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Nutrient deficiency

Succulents can also turn pink when they are lacking certain nutrients that they need to function properly, such as phosphorus, nitrogen or magnesium.

For example, succulents need phosphorus to produce sugars and nucleic acids, which they use to supply themselves with energy.

Aside from turning pink, wilting and yellowing are also signs that indicate a nutrient deficiency.

If you take too long to repot your succulent, this can also lead to nutrient deficiency because at some point, the plant’s soil will become depleted of nutrients and minerals.

Conclusion

Your succulent is turning pink because there is an environmental stressor causing the plant to react, and the discoloration is its distress call.

The most common causes of a succulent turning pink are too much sunlight, not enough sunlight, improper watering, root rot, changes in temperature, and nutrient deficiency.

Even though succulents are considered to be some of the most hardy and resilient plants in the world, they still have their limits. When those limits are reached, they will respond accordingly and you will need to address the problem if you want to keep your plant healthy and happy.

Image: istockphoto.com / Natalia Spiridonova

The columns of the Acanthocereus tetragonus rise from the soil with the majesty of the towers and turrets they resemble. One look at this plant and it makes absolute sense that it goes by the name Fairy Castle Cactus. 

There may be times, however, when the Fairy Castle Cactus’ erect dignity gives way to drooping, leaving its caretaker wondering why. The same issues that plague other succulents, such as overwatering, inadequate light, unsuitable temperature, and pests, are likely to blame.

Overwatering

In their natural environment, succulents do not see too much rainfall. They are adapted to conditions in which they receive a good occasional drenching, and then nothing for some time. This should ideally be mimicked to ensure healthy growth. However, overwatering is quite common.

When succulents receive more water than they can absorb, it accumulates in the pot. The excess moisture prevents the soil from aerating, and this blocks the uptake of oxygen and nutrients by the roots, thus starving the leaves and causing them to droop.

Additionally, root rot may set in because the moist soil environment encourages fungi and bacteria to grow. This, too, prevents the roots from taking in oxygen and nutrients and the deprived leaves will droop.

To ensure that your Fairy Castle Cactus receives the right amount of water, follow the “soak and dry” method which basically simulates conditions in its natural environment. Give it a generous watering and then refrain from watering again until the soil in the pot has gone dry.

If your Fairy Castle Cactus is already overwatered, you may try to save it by removing it from its pot and allowing it to dry before repotting it in a fresh soil mix. If root rot has set in, however, there will be more for you to do.

Gently clean the roots under running water and prune away all parts of the root system that have been affected by rot. Also, prune some of the leaves to lessen the load on the newly-trimmed roots.

Soak the roots in a fungicide solution to eliminate any possible rot-causing fungi, then plant the Fairy Castle Cactus in a fresh soil mix. Moving forward, the “soak and dry” method should be adhered to when watering the succulents.

Inadequate sunlight

Succulents that do not receive their sunlight requirements undergo a pathological condition known as etiolation, in which the leaves become elongated as the sunlight-deprived plant tries to stretch toward a light source.

In some cases, the succulents merely appear longer and “leggy.” But in others, the stretched-out leaves are too weak and begin to droop. Giving your Fairy Castle Cactus adequate sunlight is very important, especially since the leaves cannot revert to their former size once stretched.

That said, there is still hope for your Fairy Castle Cactus. Pruning the elongated leaves or propagating and starting over with new batches are both options. But for either, see to it that the plants’ lighting needs are met. 

Temperature

The Fairy Castle Cactus is native to Brazil and does not do very well in lower temperatures. Downwards of thirty degrees, the effects on the plant will be apparent, such as the drooping of leaves. To prevent this, keep your plant indoors or in a greenhouse during the colder months.

Mealybugs

Pests may also be the culprits behind the drooping leaves of a Fairy Castle Cactus. Mealybugs, in particular, will take all the nutrients for themselves, leaving the plant deprived and dehydrated, and with drooping leaves as a result.

To determine whether you are dealing with mealybugs, inspect the leaves of your Fairy Castle Cactus for white, cottony spots on the surface of the leaves. When you have located them, take a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol and wipe away the mealy bugs.

Spraying the leaves with neem oil is recommended to discourage the mealybugs from returning. It is also advisable to put some distance between your Fairy Castle Cactus and other plants as mealybugs are quite the jumpers and could easily leap to a neighboring pot.

Conclusion

The Fairy Castle Cactus is a succulent popular for its majestic, storybook appearance. However, if your standard of care dips, it can quickly reflect in the plant’s drooping foliage. This succulent is fairly easy to care for, though, and satisfying its needs will ensure the preservation of its lovely aesthetic.

Image: istockphoto.com / victor alfonso arguello martinez

Out of all the cactus species in the world, only a select few are considered edible for humans.

One of the most popular cactus species used in Mexican and some Central and South American cuisines is the prickly pear cactus.

Aside from its edible fruit, the prickly pear cactus’ pads, or nopales, are also used in many Mexican delicacies.

Cactus pads have a mildly sour or bitter taste, quite similar to certain vegetables like green beans or asparagus. Their fruit, on the other hand, is quite sweet, even when eaten raw.

In this article, we will discuss more what a cactus tastes like, whether all cacti can be eaten, and how cactus is usually prepared when used in food.

If you wish to learn more about this topic, just keep on reading.

Is it safe to eat cactus?

Yes, it is safe to eat cacti, but not all parts of them can be eaten uncooked. Furthermore, some parts can have an unpleasant taste, so even if they can technically be eaten without making you sick, you will probably not want to eat them anyway.

What types of cacti are safe to eat?

Different types of cacti work for different types of dishes, and how they are eaten will depend on the availability of the species in that area.

Common cacti that are eaten include the dragon fruit cactus, which has bright pink fruits that taste like melons when eaten raw. 

Another cactus whose fruits and pads are both used in Mexican cuisine is the prickly pear cactus.

The organ pipe cactus is a large cactus variety that is eaten both raw and cooked, while the Peruvian apple cactus has fruit that is similar in texture and taste to normal apples.

The barrel cactus has edible fruits that look a bit like baby pineapples.

Are any cacti poisonous when eaten?

When it comes to the fruit of different types of cacti, all of them are safe to eat. The question should rather be whether all cactus fruits are tasty. Although they are all considered fruit, some of them may taste very bitter and unpleasant.

As for the pads, or nopales, try to stick only to the pads of the prickly pear cactus, because that variety has been eaten by the people of Mexico and Central and South America for hundreds of years.

There are cactus species whose pads can make you very sick, so if you are feeling adventurous and willing to give cactus a try, make sure you buy your nopales from a reputable source such as your local Mexican store. Do not go into the wild and forage them yourself, because you might end up grabbing the wrong type of cactus.

What does cactus taste like?

The edible cactus varieties, such as the prickly pear, have a mild flavor that is somewhat sour. The idea of eating cactus may seem quite strange at first but the flavor is actually unobtrusive and should not be overwhelming at all. The taste is quite similar to okra, asparagus or green beans.

The texture of the cactus will depend on the preparation of the dish. When eaten raw, it is crisp and has a coating similar to the gelatinous coating of okra or tomato. There will always be a bit of a slimy texture to cactus flesh, and this is normal. Some methods of preparation can reduce the sliminess, but you might have difficulty removing that texture completely.

Can you eat cactus raw?

Yes, some types of cactus can be eaten raw and this has been practiced by many Mexican and South American people for centuries.

Even if cactus pads are typically eaten cooked, the pads of the prickly pear cactus can be eaten raw.

If you want more tender cactus preparation, cooking the pads will soften the tough outer skin, making them easier on those with sensitive stomachs.

Where can edible cactus be found?

Most grocery stores carry canned nopales, but if yours does not, try looking at your local Mexican or South American grocery stores.

Fresh nopales can be found in local farmer’s markets and in specialty grocery stores.

You can also forage in the wild for fresh cactus but only do this with someone who has vast experience in identifying and foraging wild cacti.

What are the benefits of eating cactus?

The nopales of the most commonly eaten cactus, the prickly pear, are used widely in Latin American cuisine and often served with eggs or incorporated into salads because of their many health benefits.

This cactus is rich in phytonutrients and can also help to lower sugar and cholesterol levels. This is due to the pectin and fiber content of the cactus, which removes cholesterol from the blood while controlling the sugar in the body by slowing the digestion of carbohydrates. This is incredibly helpful for those with diabetes or high blood glucose levels.

Aside from these benefits, cacti also provide calcium, iron, sodium, magnesium, potassium, and vitamins A and C.

How can cactus be eaten?

There are many different ways to prepare cactus for eating. They can also be seasoned to make them more palatable. It might seem strange at first, but the more you prepare and eat cactus, the easier and more natural it will become.

You can use prickly pear cactus shoots as a vegetable. These nopales do not have stem parts that might be tough like some other vegetables do.

If there are still spines on the nopales, scrape them off using a knife. Keep scraping until the dark areas from where the spines grew are completely gone. You might want to wear gloves when you do this so you do not get pricked.

After you have removed the spines and the dark spots, wash the nopales thoroughly in water, and you can then cook them however you want to. They are typically boiled in water or grilled, then chopped into smaller pieces, and incorporated into salads, fajitas, tacos, quesadillas, sauces, or used as a garnish on other dishes.

You can also eat the nopales raw, but the slightly sour or bitter taste may not be for everyone.

The blandest flavor of the prickly pear cactus nopales will go really well with the flavors of tropical fruits, tortillas, tomatoes, sweet peppers, chives, salsa, oregano, onions, lime, lemon, eggs, corn, cilantro, chilis, and cheese.

Another way to prepare cactus is to make candy. Cactus candy is made from the water-retaining stem of the Ferocactus and the Echinocactus. These cactus varieties contain a lot of water and make great candies. They have been used to make sweet treats even by the Native Americans.

This is done by first removing the thorns from the cactus and then cutting the cactus ribs lengthwise. The bottom is then cut off and the cactus is cut into strips and then into even smaller pieces. This process happens at the site of harvest because the cactus pieces are much easier to transport than the entire cactus.

They are then cooked into candy, drained, and are ready to be eaten.

Lastly, the cactus can also be consumed as a beverage. There are drinks made from cacti that are quite popular in Europe. Cacti are not traditionally made into beverages in Latin American cuisine and are more of a novelty beverage that is sold to the general public.

Conclusion

Cactus pads have a mild, sour or bitter taste when eaten, similar to the taste of green beans, asparagus or okra. Most cactus pads have a slimy texture, especially when eaten raw, so if you have a problem with that mouth-feel, you might prefer the cactus pad boiled or grilled first before incorporating it into your food.

Cactus fruits usually have a sweet taste that resembles a watermelon.

Eating cactus has plenty of health benefits: it can help lower both cholesterol and sugar levels in the body. Cactus also contains lots of fiber and vitamins.

Cactus pads are prepared either like a vegetable that you can mix into salads, sauces and other Latin American dishes or as candy that children will love.

You can get edible cactus at your local Mexican stores. You can also forage them from the wild yourself, but you need to be with people who know how to identify edible cacti so that you do not end up eating one that might make you sick.

If you have an adventurous palate, give cactus a try – you might like it!

Image: istockphoto.com / LarisaBlinova

The United States Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zone Map is used by farmers and gardeners to determine the average, or the range, of the annual minimum winter temperature of different regions of the country. This map is divided into 10-degree Fahrenheit zones.

USDA hardiness zone 7 has a minimum average temperature of 0 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit.

It has two subzones: 7a, with a minimum temperature of 0 to 5 degrees Fahrenheit, and 7b, with a minimum temperature of 5 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit.

Zone 7 hardiness areas typically have mild winter temperatures, and about 28 states have parts included in zone 7. These states include Virginia, New Mexico, Oregon, Texas and Oklahoma.

In this article, we will be listing and discussing succulents that can thrive in hardiness zone 7. So, if you live in one of these areas, keep reading to find out the best succulents for your garden.

Can succulents survive in zone 7?

Yes, there are definitely succulents that can survive in hardiness zone 7. These succulents are often described as hardy because of their ability to tolerate a wide range of temperature changes and different environmental conditions. It will certainly take a hardy plant to survive 0 degree Fahrenheit winter temperatures!

Succulents are some of the easiest plants to grow when you want a diverse aesthetic mix, be it as part of your landscape, in a purely succulent garden, or an addition to your regular outdoor garden. But this will only work if you know exactly which succulents will thrive in your part of the country. Growing plants that might not end up surviving in your hardiness zone is just a waste of time and money, so be smart when choosing which ones to include in your collection.

Fortunately, there are a lot of succulents that grow well in zone 7. The many different climates included in this zone allow for a range of possible options.

These succulents are low-maintenance and will grow well as long as they are planted in well-draining soil and allowed to get the light that they need on a daily basis.

They are perfect succulents for beginner gardeners.

8 Best succulents for zone 7

1. Agave

Agaves have large leaves with sharp, pointed tips. They are hardy and resilient and grow very well in zone 7. They make great additions to cactus, succulent or rock gardens.

Agaves are best planted in the spring or early autumn. They are slow-growing plants that may take several years after maturing before they start flowering.

Mature plants, when they do flower, produce flower stalks that grow up from the center of the plant. Their flowers are bell-shaped and come in white, green and yellow.

Make sure to plant your agave in well-draining soil, in a spot where it can get lots of full sunlight. These plants only need to be watered when the soil in the pot is dry to the touch. If the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

2. Sempervivum

Another succulent that grows well in zone 7 is the Sempervivum. These succulents are hardy and can tolerate both drought conditions and extreme temperature changes. The most familiar variety to you is probably the hen and chicks, but there are many other sempervivums that grow well in zone 7.

These succulents come in a wide array of colors and sizes, so gardeners can mix and match them to create a pleasing combination of appearances and textures in their landscapes and gardens.

These plants are low-maintenance and fine with getting very little attention for extended periods of time. Although they can adapt to most soil types, they grow best in well-draining soil in a sunny location.

3. Spurge

The Spurge group of succulents is one of the most extensive and diverse plant genuses, with thousands of species. These succulents have unique-looking and attention-grabbing leaves and are fast growers that can take over a garden in no time.

Examples of spurges that can be grown in hardiness zone 7 are the Helena’s Blush, Glacier Blue, Excalibur, Cypress, Bonfire, and Blue Haze spurges.

The growing conditions that these plants prefer will depend on the variety of spurge you are growing, but generally spurge plants like well-draining soil and lots of full sunlight.

Make sure you do not give your spurge too much water; only water it when the soil is dry to the touch. The plant’s roots should never be allowed to stand in perpetually soggy soil for extended periods because this can lead to root rot which may end up killing the plant.

4. Yucca

The Yucca genus includes species that are hardy enough to tolerate winter temperatures in zone 7 areas.

These plants are low-maintenance, just like most succulents, and they can thrive despite getting very little attention for extended periods. 

Yuccas have lantern-shaped flowers that grow on tall spikes. They grow well in dry rock gardens in hot climates and do best in sandy soil under full sun.

Examples of yuccas that grow and thrive in zone 7 are the curved leaf yucca, small soapweed yucca, banana yucca, blue yucca, Adam’s needle yucca, and whale’s tongue yucca.

5. Orostachys

Another succulent group that grows well in zone 7 is Orostachys. These succulents have spiral leaves that are arranged to look almost like a blooming flower.

They can easily be mistaken for Aeonium plants.

Orostachys grow best in well-draining soil, in a spot with lots of full sunlight. They can even grow in low-nutrient soil, as long as the soil still has good drainage.

They should only be watered once the soil has dried out between waterings, to ensure that they do not get overwatered, which can cause root rot. This is a condition caused by constantly wet soil, which prevents the root from accessing oxygen and causes them to drown. The resulting rot in the dead roots can spread to the rest of the plant, eventually killing it.

6. Jovibarba

Jovibarba succulents have fleshy leaves that grow in a rosette formation. They are often confused with hens and chicks succulents because they look quite similar.

These hardy succulents can adapt well to the temperature changes often observed in zone 7 climates.

They like good drainage and should be protected from the elements, such as strong winds and storms. They grow well in spots where they can get lots of sunlight and are tolerant of short periods of drought.

Water this plant only when the soil in the pot is dry to the touch, to avoid overwatering and possible root rot.

7. Delosperma

Delospermas, or ice plants, are low-growing plants that make a great ground cover in landscapes and gardens. They produce brightly-colored, daisy-like flowers during the summer. 

Delospermas like to grow in well-draining soil and should be placed in spots where they can get between six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day.

Two varieties that can grow in zone 7 are the Starburst ice plant, which grows to three inches tall and a foot and a half wide, and Cooper’s ice plant, which can grow to six inches tall and two feet wide. Both produce purple flowers.

8. Sedum

These plants also called stonecrop succulents, work great in landscapes. There is a wide variety of sedums, and they come in all sizes and colors.

These plants are tolerant of drought and can grow in rocky or sandy soil with exposure to direct sunlight.

Several Sedum varieties will survive in zone 7, because they are low-maintenance and can thrive despite changes in temperature and climate.

One sedum that does well in zone 7 is Sedum album ‘Murale’, or white stonecrop. It is a low-growing succulent that reaches three inches in height and can spread to nine inches wide. It has white flowers that bloom during the spring and summer.

Another variety is the chocolate drop sedum, which can grow up to a foot tall and one and a half feet wide. It has pink flowers in the summertime and brown or dark green leaves.

Conclusion

USDA hardiness zone 7 has a minimum average temperature of 0 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit.

It has two subzones: 7a, with a minimum temperature of 0 to 5 degrees Fahrenheit, and 7b, with a minimum temperature of 5 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit.

Zone 7 hardiness areas typically have mild winter temperatures. Around 28 states have parts included in zone 7, including Virginia, New Mexico, Oregon, Texas and Oklahoma.

There are plenty of choices for zone 7 in the succulent groups listed above. These succulents can handle the temperature swings in this zone and are also some of the easiest plants to grow and care for.

These plants should be placed in areas where they can get lots of sunlight throughout the day, and only need to be watered when the soil in the pot has dried out. As long as you provide these plants with their basic needs, they should have no problem thriving in hardiness zone 7.

The United States Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zone Map is used by farmers and gardeners to determine the average, or the range, of the annual minimum winter temperature of different regions of the country. This map is divided into 10-degree Fahrenheit zones.

USDA hardiness zone 8 has an annual minimum temperature of 10 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. It has two subzones, zone 8a, and zone 8b.

Zone 8a’s minimum temperature is 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, while zone 8b’s minimum temperature is 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit.

Temperatures may reach freezing in this zone, but this is not so frequent and does not happen for extended durations.

Hardiness zone 8 regions include the Pacific Northwest, Georgia, some parts of Florida and Texas.

In this article, we will be listing some succulents that can thrive in hardiness zone 8, so if you live in one of these regions and you wish to learn more about them, just keep reading.

7 best succulents for zone 8

1. Ice plant

The ice plant, or Delosperma cooperi, is a resilient, hardy succulent that will thrive in zone 8. It is a relatively fast-growing evergreen that produces purple, daisy-like flowers.

This plant starts blooming early in its season and will continue to bloom until the first frost appears.

The ice plant can actually grow anywhere between hardiness zones 6 to 10.

This fast-growing succulent is very popular amongst plant collectors and gardeners

because it requires very little care and attention to be able to grow well.

It does not need too much water and it can tolerate drought because of the water stored in its succulent leaves.

2. Sempervivum

Sempervivums are also known as houseleeks, and are some of the most versatile and flexible succulents when it comes to the different environments they can tolerate.

They can deal with freezing temperatures, but also do well in warm climates.

These succulents are some of the quintessential zone 8 succulents, and they have very quaint and lovely flowers, to boot.

One of the most popular Sempervivum species is the hens and chicks. This plant gets its name from the way the parent plant sprouts pups, or offsets, that look like identical, miniature versions of itself. They are very easy to propagate and will quickly become a ground cover in your garden thanks to this characteristic.

These succulents are hardy all the way to zone 3, so their versatility when it comes to growing conditions cannot be understated.

3. Opuntia

This succulent is also called the prickly pear cactus. Surprisingly, it can actually do well all the way down to hardiness zone 3, but will thrive nevertheless in zone 8.

Like most succulents, Opuntia is low-maintenance and will not need much care and attention in order to thrive. It does well in sandy soil and likes lots of sun. Because it is a succulent that is native to the desert, it is tolerant of drought-like conditions and can store plenty of water in its leaves and body.

4. Sedum

This family of succulents is so vast and extensive that it comes in all manner of sizes and colors. One of the characteristics that they all have in common, though, is the rosette formation of their leaves. This rosette looks almost too perfect and symmetrical to be real, which can make the succulent appear fake or plastic. This also makes them the perfect plants to use for decor, especially indoors.

They are so easy to grow and can quickly take over large portions of your garden if you leave them alone.

With regard to the variety of sizes, the Autumn Joy, for example, can grow as tall as a person’s knee, while other varieties can be so tiny that they can grow in a small pot on your study table. These smaller sedums are great for ground cover, or you can also place them in hanging containers.

Sedums are fine with being neglected more than most regular plants, and they thrive in hardiness zone 8.

As long as you plant your sedum in well-draining soil and ensure that it gets lots of sunlight, you do not really need to do much aside from the occasional watering. 

Just make sure that you only water it when the soil in the pot is dry to the touch. It is important that these plants do not get overwatered, because that can lead to root rot which could kill the plant.

5. Claret cup cactus

The claret cup cactus is a succulent that grows well in the loose, gravelly soil of the desert. It loves hot, arid climates, which makes it a great choice for zone 8 regions.

This plant only needs to be watered when the soil in its pot is dry to the touch. It is very easy to overwater it, so be vigilant about this, as overwatering can lead to root rot.

Root rot happens when the plant is so overwatered that the soil in the pot is perpetually wet. The wet soil will drown the plant’s roots, and they will be unable to absorb oxygen. They will start to rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens, which will help the root rot to spread even faster to the rest of the plant until the entire plant is affected and eventually dies. 

Because succulents store water in their leaves and bodies, most of them are more susceptible to root rot than the average plant.

6. Kalanchoe

The Kalanchoe genus is composed of flowering succulents that come in a variety of colors, sizes and shapes. Over the past couple of years, they have become one of the most popular types of succulents collected as houseplants.

These succulents are low-maintenance and easy to grow and care for, because they are drought-tolerant and can go for weeks without being watered.

They can also tolerate frost, which is why they do quite well in moderate zone 8 climates.

Make sure these plants can get the sunlight that they need to remain healthy and that they have good drainage. Use well-draining succulent soil that is airy and porous. Also make sure the plant’s pot has drainage holes at the bottom so that any excess water will simply flow through the soil and out of the holes, thus reducing the chances of overwatering and root rot.

7. Lewisia

Lewisia is a small succulent with green, fleshy leaves, and is low-maintenance and easy to care for.

These plants are hardy to zone 3, so they can be grown in a wide array of different climates and temperatures.

The plants of the Lewisia genus need good drainage for healthy roots, and they need to get lots of sunlight in order to thrive.

They do not actually need to be fertilized to thrive; they will do just fine even in poor soils that are not exactly rich in nutrients.

They are, however, quite sensitive to overwatering, so make sure you check the soil in the pot before watering it. Touch the top two inches of soil with your finger, and if the soil is dry to the touch, water the plant. If the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Make sure the soil is well-draining and that the pot has sufficient drainage holes.

Conclusion

USDA hardiness zone 8 has an annual minimum temperature of 10 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. It is divided into two subzones, zone 8a and zone 8b, whose minimum temperatures are 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit and 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, respectively.

Zone 8 succulents are able to adapt to various weather and climate conditions.

The only thing that they are sensitive to is overwatering. This includes poorly-draining soil, insufficient sunlight, and too much water given.

If you are growing a zone 8 succulent, make sure your soil is well-draining and that the plant gets plenty of sunlight. Also, allow the soil in the pot to dry out between waterings.

The temperature in zone 8 very rarely gets below freezing, allowing a wide variety of succulents to grow well in these areas. As long as you choose plants that can thrive in zone 8 regions, you will have no problem growing them if you provide for their basic needs.

Succulents do not necessarily prefer being crowded over having plenty of space around them. However, what is true is that succulents do not mind being crowded in a container, as long as their basic needs are still met.

Growing different kinds of succulents in one container can be a great way to arrange a display to place indoors as a part of your decor, but remember that you should only plant succulents with similar requirements in the same container so that you do not have to worry about differences in their care and maintenance.

In this article, we will discuss more whether succulents like to be crowded, and the critical points you need to be aware of when growing multiple succulents in a single container.

Do succulents like to be crowded?

Succulents do not mind being crowded in a container, as long as the combination of succulents that you group together all have compatible water, sunlight, and nutritional needs.

You should also be using a succulent soil mix that all of the succulents like, and being vigilant about checking for pests and diseases because these problems can spread quickly in a crowded succulent display.

When you plant multiple succulents in one container and you see lots of pups and offsets popping up, that means that the succulents are happy and they do not have any problem being crowded in the container.

After two years, the container is probably going to be so crowded that you will need to remove the offsets or pups and transfer them to another container where they can start their own crowd.

A container that is too crowded will run into problems at some point, so make sure you remove some of the succulents before this happens.

What are the factors to consider when growing multiple succulents in one container?

The most important thing to remember when planting different succulents in one container is to choose succulents that have the same environmental and maintenance needs so that their growth requirements are similar.

1. Choose succulents that have the same light requirements

In this set-up, you cannot place a succulent that needs lots of direct light next to a succulent that prefers the shade, because if you place the container under full sun, the latter succulent will burn very easily. Conversely, if you place the container in a shady area, the succulent that prefers full sun is going to become leggy because it is not getting all the light that it needs.

Choose succulents that all like full sun, or choose succulents that all like the shade if you want your succulent display to succeed.

2. Choose succulents that have the same water needs

In the same way, the succulents that you plan to plant together should also have the same water requirements.

If a succulent likes to be watered every week, pairing it with a succulent that prefers water every two weeks is going to be a recipe for disaster.

While one succulent likes its soil to be a bit moist at all times, the other succulent will get overwatered and might get root rot and die.

3. There should be enough space for fast-growing succulents

If the succulents that you plan on grouping together are all fast-growing species, make sure you do not crowd the container from the very beginning. Plant the succulents with around one or two inches of space between them so that there is space for them to grow into and the container does not become crowded too quickly.

It is best to choose succulent species that grow at roughly the same rate so that no one succulent grows much faster than the others.

4. Pick the correct container

The container or pot that you use for your succulent display should have drainage holes at the bottom and it should also be big enough to hold all of the succulents you plan to include. The perfect size container should have enough space for the roots of all the succulents to grow into.

The material of the container should also be taken into consideration. A clay or terracotta pot will let more air pass through and will allow excess water to drain out quite well, but you may need to water the plants more often in a pot made of these materials. A plastic container will hold water in the soil for a longer time, so you will not need to water the plants as often, but the plants will also be more prone to overwatering because of this material.

5. Choose the correct potting medium

The potting medium that you use should be one that all the plants like. It should be well-draining but also be able to hold onto just the right amount of moisture that will keep the succulents correctly hydrated.

Incorporate some nutrient-rich substrates to help promote growth in your succulents.

If the potting medium is not sufficiently well-draining, you can add scoria, pumice or perlite to improve the drainage.

6. Take the shapes and sizes of the succulents into account

There are thousands of different succulents, ranging from those that are only a few inches tall to those that can be several feet tall.

Some succulents form rosettes while others grow in columns or even round shapes.

When you are arranging your succulents in the pot, make sure that they will create a beautiful aesthetic when they all start growing close to each other.

Do not place succulents that are too tall next to succulents that are very short, because the tall succulents could obscure the light and the short succulents may end up not getting enough light, which can affect their growth.

What are the benefits of crowding succulents in one container?

Crowding succulents does have its benefits. The main and most obvious benefit when growing succulents this way is the aesthetic of the display, especially if you choose succulents that look great together.

This method of growing succulents is a great option for people that live in small spaces like apartments and condominiums. You get to care for an abundance of plants while not taking up too much space in your crowded home.

Growing your succulents in the same container can also save you the effort of having to lift individual pots from one place to another when you wish to move the plants around your house. 

It can also keep their growth at a slower pace, which is great for people who like smaller succulents.

Remember that you are still going to have to repot some of the succulents if they become too crowded in the future. You do not want to reach a point where the plants become rootbound because this can lead to a host of problems.

What are the downsides of crowding succulents in a single container?

The main downside of arranging your succulents in a single container is that pests and diseases can spread like wildfire through your entire arrangement, due to the fact that the leaves of one succulent will be touching the leaves of four other succulents around it.

A container that has plenty of succulents in it will also need to be watered frequently because the soil will dry out quickly as all the plants use up the water. All the roots crowding in the container will be competing to drink from one source, so keeping them all well-hydrated can be a chore and you might need to pay more attention to this aspect.

As we mentioned above, it will only take the succulents two years, at most, to fill all of the space in the container before it gets too overcrowded. If you let the succulents go on being crowded for longer than you should, the roots may become tangled and you will have a difficult time separating the individual succulents.

In a very crowded container, you might not even be able to check the soil very easily, and you could also end up overwatering it which can lead to root rot and possibly kill your succulents.

Conclusion

Succulents do not mind being crowded in a single container as long as the needs of all the plants in the group are similar, so you do not have to cater to different growing requirements in one pot.

When grouping multiple succulents together in the same container, make sure they all have the same light and water requirements and make sure each plant has enough space to grow into. Every two years, check whether the plants have become rootbound and repot the offsets and pups so that the container does not become overcrowded.

Planting different succulents in one container is great for people who live in small spaces because you get to grow assorted plants without taking up too much space in your home.

Image: istockphoto.com / jonnysek

The United States Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zone Map is used by farmers and gardeners to determine the average, or the range, of the annual minimum winter temperature of different regions of the country. This map is divided into 10-degree Fahrenheit zones.

Succulents that thrive in hardiness zone 9 do well in dry climates that have long summers and high temperatures. These plants can tolerate cold temperatures between 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit.

States in the U. S. that typically belong to this hardiness zone are Arizona, Florida and California.

In this article, we will discuss some of the succulents that can thrive in hardiness zone 9, so if you want to know what these plants are, then keep reading.

Best succulents for zone 9

1. Aeonium

Aeoniums comprise over 30 different species that have waxy or glossy leaves that grow in a rosette.

These succulents can be as small as a few inches wide, or as large as several feet wide, depending on the variety.

They produce small, star-shaped flowers, arranged in clusters that grow from the middle of the rosette. It may take these plants up to five years before they start producing flowers. Most of these mature plants will die after blooming but do not worry because they will continue to produce shoots, or pups, even after the mother plant has died.

Aeoniums do best in a Mediterranean climate, meaning weather that is neither too hot nor too cold, and neither too dry nor too wet. In terms of US hardiness zones, they do best in zones 9 to 11.

Examples of aeoniums that do well in zone 9 are Aeonium Luteovariegatum, Kiwi, Suncup, Black rose, Lily Pad, Mardi Gras, and Sunburst.

2. Cactus

Cacti are slow-growing, blooming succulents, of which there are over a thousand varieties around the world. They come in a wide array of sizes and shapes; the smaller ones work best planted in pots and containers indoors, while the larger cacti that can reach several feet tall are better off planted outdoors where their size is not restricted by limited space.

During a cactus’ active growth period, it prefers temperatures that are on the higher end; anywhere between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. In the winter, meanwhile, they are fine with temperatures as low as 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Remember that, although deserts can get quite chilly during the evenings, you cannot just leave your cactus outside in the frost.

Examples of cacti that do well in hardiness zone 9 include the Echinopsis, Dwarf Chin, Golden Barrel, Pine Cone, Corn Cob, Hedgehog, Thimble and Powder Puff cacti.

3. Senecio

There are over 1,000 different types of Senecio all over the world. These species include expensive, highly-coveted garden perennials, as well as weed-like plants.

A hundred of these species are considered garden plants, or those that can be grown in pots or containers. Most of these plants are toxic to animals, so make sure you keep them out of your pet’s reach to be safe.

Many senecio varieties are used as ground covers because of the way they trail, while others resemble shrubs.

Senecio flowers grow in clusters on long stems and look like yellow daisies.

Senecios grow in hardiness zone 9 to 12. They are heat-tolerant and are fine with short periods of cold, but prolonged exposure may kill them.

Examples of senecios that do well in zone 9 are string of bananas, string of dolphins, string of pearls, Senecio haworthii, Senecio Silver Corral, blue chalk sticks and the candle plant.

4. Sempervivum

Sempervivum succulents like to grow in gritty, rocky soil, in hot, dry weather.

They are low-maintenance plants and can thrive in many different growing conditions.

The leaves of these succulents grow in a rosette formation and come in a variety of colors and sizes. They like to grow low to the ground and to get lots of sun.

Make sure you plant them in a well-draining soil mix so that they do not become overwatered.

Many sempervivum varieties produce flowers that are yellow, red, pink or green. 

These plants prefer a climate with temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperatures go any lower than 20 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant may stop growing or become semi-dormant, and could even die.

Examples of sempervivums that do well in zone 9 are Sempervivum Terracotta Baby, Corsair, Rita Jane, Greenii, Eddy and Fashion Diva.

5. Sedum

Sedum plants are drought-tolerant, low-maintenance, and come in a variety of colors and sizes. They can either grow low to the ground as cover, or they can be upright and form clumps that would make great borders in your garden.

These plants look great even into winter, but make sure that they always get enough light because otherwise they might become leggy. If this happens, you can always prune the leggy parts back.

There are some sedum varieties that may not do that well in zone 9, but generally speaking, these plants can tolerate a wide range of temperatures. Just make sure that the temperatures do not exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit, because then their leaves may get scorched.

Examples of sedums that do well in zone 9 are the Green Jelly Bean, Sunsparkler, Fuzzy Wuzzy, Sieboldii, Little Missy, Little Gem, White Diamond, Major and Minor sedums.

6. Kalanchoe

The Kalanchoe genus comprises more than one hundred plants. These plants thrive in arid environments and are some of the easiest-to-grow succulents, requiring very little care and attention.

They also have some very unique-looking foliage, which is another reason people love collecting them.

Kalanchoes are slow-growing plants that take about two to five years to fully mature.

Their leaves can come in white, yellow, pink and red. Make sure you give them enough light so that they are able to bloom regularly.

These plants are toxic to dogs and cats, so make sure to keep them out of your pets’ reach to keep them safe.

Examples of kalanchoe varieties that do well in hardiness zone 9 are Kalanchoe manginii, porphyro calyx, beharensis and pinnata.

7. Echeveria

Echeverias are some of the most popular succulents the world over. Their leaves form a beautiful, symmetrical rosette shape which makes them a great choice for decor.

They can be a few inches tall, or up to a foot tall, and are great outdoor and indoor plants.

Echeverias like bright environments that are dry most of the time, and they are fine with being neglected for short periods.

They do not do well in cold temperatures, and even simple exposure to cold drafts can be enough to affect their growth.

If you are growing your echeveria indoors, the typical room temperature and humidity inside most homes is good enough for these plants.

In zone 9 areas, you can grow echeverias outside with minimal problems, but if you live in a place where the winters are particularly brutal, the plants may be better off in a pot that you can take indoors when the freeze threatens.

Examples of echeverias that do well in zone 9 are Echeveria Blue Fairy, White Rose, Minima, Gray Curl,Topsy Turvy, Culibra, Violet Queen and Black Prince.

8. Crassula

Crassulas are very popular because of how low-maintenance and easy to grow they are. They come in a variety of textures and shapes and can be grown both indoors and outdoors.

The most popular crassula plant is Crassula ovata, or the jade plant. These plants are slow-growers that can be toxic to animals. Make sure you keep the plant away from your pets’ reach as it can be detrimental to their health if ingested.

You can grow crassulas outdoors in hardiness zone 9 areas, but if you live in an area where winters can go below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, your crassulas may be better off planted in containers or pots and simply brought indoors when the frost comes.

There may be varieties of crassulas that can survive short periods of cold weather, but too much cold weather can kill them.

Examples of crassulas that do well in zone 9 are the Pagoda Village, Giant Watch Chain, Ruffle Jade, Hummel’s Sunset, Springtime, Gollum Jade, Tiger Jade and Devil’s Horns.

9. Cotyledon

These shrub-like succulents have over two dozen different varieties and produce tubular flowers.

They thrive in warm, dry climates, but they are able to tolerate a certain level of cold; just not extended exposure to low temperatures because this can lead to the death of the plant.

If you live in a place where winters can go below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, plant your cotyledon in a container or a pot so that you can easily transfer it indoors when the need arises. 

These plants are toxic to animals, so make sure you keep them away from your pets for their safety.

Cotyledon species that do well in hardiness zone 9 are the Gray Sticks, Pig’s Ear, Cotyledon pendens, and the Bear’s Paw.

Conclusion

Plants that thrive in hardiness zone 9 are those that do well in long, dry summers with high temperatures. These succulents can also tolerate cold temperatures between 20 and 30 degrees Fahrenheit.

Any of the succulents listed above can be mixed and matched to be grown either indoors or outdoors if you live in a region included in zone 9. It is completely up to you how you design your garden, because there is an abundance of succulent types that can thrive in this climate. 

The United States Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zone Map is used by farmers and gardeners to determine the average, or the range, of the annual minimum winter temperature of different regions of the country. This map is divided into 10-degree Fahrenheit zones

Plants that are hardy to zone 10 are those that can withstand a minimum temperature of 30 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

In this article, we will discuss 10 of the best succulents that can thrive in these environments, to help you understand exactly what you can plant in your outdoor and indoor gardens.

10 best succulents for zone 10

1. Cactus

Cacti are some of the hardiest succulents around. They are able to store water in their bodies and use this to survive extended periods of drought.

They can grow in most climates around the world; many different cacti can be found in North America and East Africa, for example, and not just desert climates.

Some cacti have even been found in cold climates, as well as some in rainforests.

This resilience is one of the reasons these plants have become so popular among home gardeners.

They also come in different shapes and sizes, so gardeners have many options when it comes to adding these plants to their collections.

Examples of cacti that do well in hardiness zone 10 are the Golden Barrel, Peanut, Lady Finger, Dwarf Chin, Powder Puff, Thimble and Christmas cacti.

2. Aeonium

Aeonium succulents include more than 30 different species and typically have waxy or glossy leaves that grow in a rosette formation.

The leaves are often rounded and are arranged so symmetrically that the plants are frequently mistaken for fakes. The leaf color can be green, red, yellow, or white.

These plants grow star-shaped flowers in clusters at the center of the rosettes.

In warmer climates, aeoniums grow well directly in the ground, but they are just fine planted in containers or pots as well.

In colder climates, it is best to bring them indoors in their pots when winter comes around.

Examples of aeoniums that do well in hardiness zone 10 are Aeonium Black Rose, Kiwi, Lily Pad, Mardi Gras, Suncup and Sunburst.

3. Echeveria

Echeverias also grow in rosette formation and come in a variety of colors and sizes that you can choose from.

They produce flowers that are either red-orange, yellow-tipped or pink.

Echeverias are faster-growing succulents than most, which is why they make great ground cover for gardens.

These plants thrive in hot, dry conditions and do not do that well in cold temperatures for extended periods.

In hardiness zone 10 they can be planted directly in the ground, but if you live in colder places, they might be better off in pots or containers so they can be easily brought indoors during the winter.

Examples of Echeveria varieties that do well in zone 10 are the Painted Nodusula, Black Prince, Topsy turvy, Black Knight, Raindrops, White Rose, Blue Sky and Lipstick echeverias.

4. Sedum 

Sedums come in an extensive array of shapes, sizes and colors.

They are also known as stonecrop succulents, and they can withstand long periods of drought thanks to their fleshy leaves that can absorb and store water.

These plants produce star-like flowers that bloom during the late growing season.

The best time to plant sedums is in late spring. They grow moderately fast, depending on the variety you have.

There are some sedums that may not grow well in hardiness zone 10, but generally speaking, these plants are tolerant of a wide range of temperatures.

Examples of sedums that do well in zone 10 are the Donkey’s Tail, California Sunset, Little Gem, FireStorm, Jelly Bean and Major sedums.

5. Senecio

There are over 1,000 Senecio varieties all over the world, and 100 of these are succulents.

These succulents are typically grown in outdoor gardens in warmer climates, and in containers in colder climates.

They are considered toxic to animals, so make sure you keep them out of your pets’ reach for their safety.

Most senecios thrive anywhere between hardiness zones 9 to 12, as many of them are heat tolerant. However, extended exposure to cold temperatures is not advisable as this can easily cause the plant to go mushy and die.

Senecio varieties that thrive in Zone 10 are the pickle plant, the candle plant, vertical leaf senecio, ruby necklace, swizzle sticks and blue chalk sticks.

6. Crassula

Crassulas comprise a genus of over 200 species. The most popular member of this genus is probably Crassula ovata, or the jade plant.

Crassulas can either look like small trees or grow like shrubs, and they can be woody or herbaceous.

These plants are slow-growers that can be grown both indoors and outdoors. They can be toxic to pets, so keep them out of reach for your pet’s safety.

Crassulas can be grown outdoors in hardiness zones 9 to 12. If you live in a region where the winters can get quite cold, then they may be better off as houseplants.

A mild frost is okay for some varieties, but extended exposures to temperatures lower than 30 degrees Fahrenheit may be enough to kill the plants.

Crassulas that thrive in hardiness zone 10 include the Shark Tooth, Camp Fire, Baby Necklace, Silver Springtime, Gollum Jade, Moonglow, Falcata and Tiger’s Jaw crassulas.

7. Aloe

Aloes are some of the most popular succulents grown around the world. The gel contained in their leaves has medicinal benefits, such as a skin salve for minor burns and wounds.

While Aloe vera is the most popular, there are actually more than 300 aloe species. The leaves of these plants grow from the base and form a rosette, and it takes most aloes four years to reach full maturity as they are relatively fast-growing succulents.

Aloes grow best between 50 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They can probably tolerate short periods of frost, but need to be taken indoors if the cold weather is expected to go on for extended periods.

Aloe varieties that do well in zone 10 are the Aloe polyphylla, Aloe aculeata, climbing Aloe, and the shortleaf Aloe.

8. Sempervivum

Sempervivums are another type of succulents that requires very little care and attention to grow. They are hardy plants whose leaves also grow in a beautiful, symmetrical rosette formation.

These are slow-growing succulents that tend to remain green throughout the year, even in colder climates. They can grow in poor conditions and do well in a wide range of temperatures. 

They do best between 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and if they are exposed to temperatures lower than 30 degrees Fahrenheit for extended periods, they may die or go into a semi-dormant state.

Examples of sempervivums that do well in zone 10 are the Fashion Diva, Greenii, Killer and Terracotta Baby sempervivums.

9. Cotyledon

Cotyledons are native to the southern parts of Africa, and there are over two dozen species of these shrub-like succulents. Most members of this genus have tubular flowers and globular seeds.

These plants are toxic when consumed, so make sure you keep them far out of the reach of small children and pets.

If you live in a climate that typically has below-freezing temperatures, you might need to take these plants indoors during the winter. Remember that these plants are not frost-tolerant and could die when left out in the cold.

There are species of cotyledon that can handle extreme heat better than others.

Examples of cotyledons that do well in zone 10 include the bear’s paw plant, Cotyledon pendens, pig’s ear plant, and the Gray Sticks cotyledon.

10. Kalanchoe

The kalanchoe genus includes over 100 species of plants. These have become quite popular because they are low-maintenance and have unique-looking leaves, as well as flowers that bloom repeatedly if exposed to the right amount of light.

Kalanchoes are slow-growing plants that may take anywhere between two and five years to reach full maturity. They can come in white, yellow, pink or red.

Remember that these plants can be toxic to dogs and cats, so make sure they are kept far away from your pets.

They thrive in temperatures between 55 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and can only really survive in zones 10 to 12.

They cannot tolerate temperatures below 30 degrees Fahrenheit, so if you live in a place with frosty temperatures, you may need to bring them in from the cold so that they do not die.

Examples of kalanchoes that do well in zone 10 are Kalanchoe panamensis, Lavender Scallops, Flapjacks, Chocolate Soldier and Mother of Thousands.

Conclusion

Beginner gardeners may have a hard time finding the right succulents to plant in their part of the country because the plants that they would like to own are not conducive to that region’s hardiness zone.

Zone 10 hardiness refers to plants that can withstand a minimum temperature of 30 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, and the plants listed in this article are great choices for both indoor and outdoor plants if you live in a zone 10 region. You can mix and match these plants to your heart’s desire to maximize the attractiveness of your garden.

The United States Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zone Map is used by farmers and gardeners to determine the average, or the range, of the annual minimum winter temperatures of different regions of the country. This map is divided into 10-degree Fahrenheit zones.

The USDA hardiness zone 5 has a minimum temperature range of -20 to -10 degrees Fahrenheit. These places typically experience a moderately cold winter and include the states of Pennsylvania, New York, New England, Idaho, and some parts of Alaska.

-20 to -10 degrees Fahrenheit is very cold, so you need to choose the right kind of plants if you want them to survive in these conditions.

In this article, we will discuss the different kinds of succulents that are hard enough to survive and thrive in zone 5. If you are currently living in an area that belongs in this zone and you are planning on growing succulents, just keep reading.

How does one know which succulents can survive in zone 5 and which cannot?

The USDA hardiness zone map is used to identify the types of plants that can grow in a specific area and whether they will be able to thrive in that area’s specific climate.

Some succulents are able to tolerate extremely cold conditions because they have lived in similar conditions in their natural habitat for hundreds or thousands of years.

There are other succulents that, although not as hardy as those that belong in zone 5, maybe grow in this climate by heavily mulching them so that their roots are protected from possible damage by the snow and the cold.

The hardiness zone of your plant can usually be found on its tag when you purchase it from the nursery or the store. If there is no such information attached to the plant, do not be afraid to ask the professional working in the store for their opinion and advice.

Zone 5 includes areas of Pennsylvania, New York, New England, Idaho and Alaska. These places can get quite chilly in the winter, so you must have succulents that can tolerate -10 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter.

You do not need to worry much about these succulents during the summer; they will do just fine and even thrive in warm temperatures.

7 Best succulents for Zone 5

1. Euphorbia myrsinites

This succulent is also called the myrtle spurge and it is identified by its bluish-green leaves that grow in a spiral. It produces beautiful yellow flowers that grow on yellow-colored bracts.

It is quite versatile and can grow in zones 5 to 9. Place it in a spot where it can get lots of sunlight and make sure that the soil is well-draining, sandy and gravelly.

This succulent is able to tolerate periods of drought and will not need to be watered as often as most plants.

Water the plant when the soil in the pot is dry to the touch. If the top two inches of soil are still damp, wait one or two days before checking again. This is done to avoid overwatering the plant, thus ensuring it does not get root rot.

2. Sempervivum tectorum

The Sempervivum genus is composed of numerous succulents that are hardy enough to survive in zone 5 conditions. In fact, some of the succulents in this group can even survive all the way to zone 3.

The most popular Sempervivum is probably the one more commonly known as hens and chicks.

Plant this succulent in well-draining soil and place it in an area where it can get lots of sunlight throughout the day. Before watering it, check the top two inches of soil with your finger and, if the soil is dry, water the plant. If it is still damp, wait one or two days before checking the soil again.

This plant is very easy to grow, both in containers or pots and in outdoor gardens.

It is called the hens and chicks Sempervivum because the mother plants grow little offsets, or pups, which make the plant look like a hen with its baby chicks around it.

It can survive in drought conditions and it can be used as a good ground cover for your rock garden or landscapes.

3. Delosperma

The Delosperma, or the ice plant, is a hardy succulent that is able to grow and thrive in zone 5 conditions.

It is called the ice plant not because of its ability to survive in cold temperatures, but because its foliage is covered in white flakes that make the plant look as if it is covered in ice crystals.

This plant can make a great and colorful addition to your landscapes and outdoor garden because of the bright purple, orange, yellow and red colors of its daisy-like flowers.

Place the plant in areas where it can get lots of bright sunlight and plant it in sandy soil that is well-draining.

This plant is able to tolerate drought and only needs to be watered when the soil around it is dry to the touch. This will ensure that you do not overwater the plant and possibly cause root rot.

4. Agave havardiana

This specific variety of Agave is also called Harvard’s Agave. It is an evergreen succulent with blue leaves.

This Agave is hardy enough to survive and thrive in zone 5 conditions, where it likes to grow under the full sun in well-draining soil.

It does not like to be watered too often because it is able to store plenty of water in its leaves and body. It can tolerate drought as well as very cold conditions.

5. Rosularia muratdaghensis

This succulent looks very similar to the hens and chicks Sempervivum because of the appearance of its rosettes.

It is a perennial succulent that has small, hairy rosettes formed by its leaves and yellow or creamy-white tubular flowers that grow on spikes. Its flowers bloom during the summer.

Rosularia muratdaghensis is hardy to the cold of zone 5, so you can grow it in your outdoor garden and landscapes.

Plant the succulent where it can get lots of sun as it grows, and use well-draining, sandy soil to ensure that the plant reaches its full potential.

It is tolerant of drought and needs very little care and attention to grow well.

6. Orostachys

This succulent is also called the Chinese dunce cap. It is an interesting-looking succulent with spires of silvery-lavender, cone-shaped rosettes.

It is a match for zones 5 to 10, which means it can adapt to a wide array of different temperatures and climates.

Growing this succulent is not very challenging because it does not require too much care and attention to grow well.

Plant it in sandy, well-draining soil and water it only when the top two inches of soil are completely dry to the touch.

7. Othonna

This succulent, especially the “Little Pickles” variety, is a slow-growing plant that has small, blue-green leaves resembling tiny pickles, hence its name.

Othonna can grow in hardiness zones 5 to 9.

This is a low-growing succulent that makes an amazing ground cover, and it will grow well in containers, rock gardens and even your outdoor landscapes.

It is able to tolerate drought and does not need to be watered that often. Water it only when the soil in the pot is dry to the touch.

Plant this succulent in a spot where it can get lots of sunlight and use well-draining soil to avoid overwatering and root rot.

How do I keep zone 5 succulents from dying in the freezing temperatures?

In order to ensure that your succulents do not die in zone 5 temperatures, you can try placing mulch around the root zone so that the soil is kept warm.

You can also grow the succulents in a microclimate in your garden, where there are lots of rocks to help conserve the heat. This helps even semi-hardy succulents to grow in cold climates.

You can also use a frost blanket to protect your plants from the cold.

If you feel the plant cannot handle the cold, you can always bring it indoors and keep it there until the temperature outside starts to become warmer.

Conclusion

The USDA hardiness zone 5 has a minimum temperature range of -20 to -10 degrees Fahrenheit, which is very cold, so you need to choose the right kind of plants if you want them to survive these conditions.

There are plenty of succulents that are still able to survive and thrive in zone 5 conditions, so if you really want to continue growing succulents despite living in a cold climate, you can definitely do so.

These succulents come in all different shapes, colors and sizes, so it is up to you to mix and match them as you like in your outdoor garden or landscape.

The important thing to keep in mind is that the succulents you choose should be placed where they can get lots of bright sunlight throughout the day. Also, only water them when the top two inches of their soil are dry to the touch. These rules are important because they help your plant avoid overwatering and possible root rot. 

Yes, activated charcoal is great for succulents because it absorbs any excess moisture in the soil so that the plant is less likely to become overwatered or get root rot.

When the soil in a succulent pot is allowed to dry out between waterings and has good airflow, it is less likely to harbor diseases and pests and the plant will remain healthy.

Activated charcoal can also help remove foul smells, toxins, and certain chemicals from the succulent soil.

In this article, we will discuss the type of charcoal you can use on your succulents, how to use it properly, and why it is great to use on your plants. So, if you are thinking about using activated charcoal on your succulents and you wish to learn more, just keep reading.

Is activated charcoal the same as normal charcoal?

Charcoal is a carbon material produced when organic carbon resources, such as coconut shells or wood, are burned in low oxygen at a high temperature.

Normal charcoal, such as that commonly used for grilling, still contains plenty of chemicals that are not great for succulent soil. If you use normal charcoal for your succulents, these chemicals will accumulate and have a negative effect on the plant.

You can still use briquettes of grilling charcoal for your plants, but only as fertilizer and they will not be as effective as activated charcoal.

Activated charcoal is normal charcoal that has been extremely burnt so that it becomes durable and porous. It has a higher absorbency rate than normal charcoal and can effectively bind to toxins and chemicals and eliminate them.

Is horticultural charcoal the same as activated charcoal?

Horticultural charcoal is also called inactive charcoal. It has many of the same properties as activated charcoal, but also a few differences.

Horticultural charcoal does not have air pockets quite as spongy as those in activated charcoal. Also, it does not absorb moisture, toxins or odors as well as activated charcoal.

Is activated charcoal good for succulents?

Activated charcoal, also called activated carbon, provides plenty of benefits for succulents. 

Succulents are more prone than most plants to overwatering and root rot. The latter is a condition that develops when the plant is constantly overwatered and its roots are always standing in soggy soil. A plant’s roots need to dry out between waterings so that they can absorb oxygen from the air, and this is not possible when the soil around them is always wet.

In this case, the roots will drown and die, and the dead roots will be susceptible to opportunistic pathogens such as fungi and bacteria. These pathogens will accelerate the spread of the rot through the rest of the plant until the whole succulent succumbs to the rot.

To avoid this from happening, you can mix activated charcoal into your potting mix, because it helps with the water drainage as well as promotes the succulent’s growth.

Succulents that are grown indoors may suffer even more from overwatering and it could cause their leaves to turn yellow and fall off. They are easier to overwater than their outdoor counterparts because they get less light and heat, as well as much less air circulation, so the soil will not dry out as fast as it would outside.

Another factor that can lead to overwatering is a lack of drainage holes at the bottom of the succulent pot. The drainage holes are there to let excess water flow out in the event that you accidentally overwater your plant.

Activated charcoal can help in this situation because it reduces the soil’s moisture retention by absorbing the moisture itself, leaving the plant to grow in well-draining, aerated soil.

What are some other benefits of activated charcoal?

Succulent soil mixes usually contain nickel, copper, iron and cobalt. These minerals can make the soil unbalanced and negatively affect the growth of your plant. Luckily, activated charcoal can absorb all of these minerals. 

Activated charcoal also improves root growth in succulents so that nutrient uptake is more efficient.

It also prevents foul smells from emanating from your plants. Potting soil contains plenty of organic substances that produce a foul odor as they decay, and using activated charcoal is very effective at eliminating these odors.

Activated charcoal can even prevent fungal infections from breaking out on your succulent, as well as prevent pests from attacking.

Fungi, pests, and insects are attracted to the moisture in overwatered succulents, so when you apply activated charcoal the moisture is removed and you will therefore deter pests and diseases.

How much-activated charcoal should be added to a succulent’s soil?

Be careful how you use activated charcoal in your succulent soil. If the climate and weather is drier and hotter, 10 percent activated charcoal to 90 percent succulent soil should be fine.

If you live in a place that is more humid and cold most of the time, you can increase the activated charcoal to around 40 percent.

Basically, when the moisture in the succulent environment is increased, the soil is going to need more absorption.

Generally, a great mix for a succulent would be one part activated charcoal to nine parts succulent soil mix that also contains pebbles, pumice and coarse sand.

Conclusion

Yes, activated charcoal is good for succulents because it can help keep the soil in the plants’ pots dry. Succulents thrive when their roots are allowed to dry out between waterings.

Activated charcoal also lessens the likelihood of fungal growth and pests, while improving the aeration in the soil.

It can also absorb toxins and chemicals from the soil that can negatively affect the growth of your plants.

There are countless benefits to the use of activated charcoal in your succulent soil, but in particular, if you constantly worry about the possibility of too much moisture in the soil, then definitely give activated charcoal a try.

Image: istockphoto.com / yokeetod

Yes, you should repot succulents when you buy them. 

The main reason for doing this is that most nurseries and stores that sell succulents grow them in soil that is not ideal for the plants.

The pot that the succulent comes in when you buy it is also typically too small for the plant’s current size and the roots will quickly run out of space to grow into.

You also need to replace both the soil and the pot in case they are harboring diseases or pests which could affect your other plants.

The best way to bring a new succulent home is to keep it inside a plastic bag at first, and only take it out when you are ready to replant it.

Keep reading to learn more about how to properly handle a newly-purchased succulent.

Why should you repot succulents when you buy them?

Just because the store where you bought the succulent sells these plants for a living, this does not necessarily mean that they care about the plants beyond selling them on.
Therefore, after buying succulents from a store or nursery, you should repot them as soon as possible for a number of reasons.

To check whether the soil is well-draining

The first reason you should repot a succulent after buying it is that you can never be sure whether the soil in the pot is sufficiently well-draining for the plant. Most nurseries just grow their succulents in dense, regular soil that retains way too much moisture.

To be sure, remove the plant from its old soil and replant it in well-draining soil that is specifically designed for succulents. For minimal effort, you will be ensuring that your new succulent is healthy and enjoys sustainable growth.

To inspect the roots

Another reason it is a good idea to repot a new succulent is because you then get a chance to inspect the condition of the plant’s roots.

Sometimes the plant may look healthy from the base up, but it could have had root problems for weeks.

Remember that succulents are native to the driest, most arid regions of the world and their fleshy leaves absorb and store water in case of dry spells. Thus, they only ever need to be watered when the soil in their pot is dry to the touch; any more than this is not healthy for their roots.

Root rot is one of the most common problems encountered by succulent owners. It is a condition that develops when the plant’s roots stand constantly in soggy soil that is never allowed to dry out, and the roots eventually drown and die.

The dead roots will become vulnerable to opportunistic fungi and bacteria, which will cause the rot to spread to the rest of the plant until it eventually dies.

When you repot your succulent, you get to see the state of the plant’s roots and can remove dead and rotten root sections, thereby saving your new plant from death by root rot.

To check for pests

Often the plant may look like it has no diseases or pests at first glance, but by repotting it you will be able to see any infestations that may be hidden in the soil.

There are certain insects that hide their larvae in the soil, so by simply replacing all of the soil in the old pot and disposing of the old soil properly, you can avoid a possible large-scale pest or disease infestation.

If the pot has no drainage holes

Another reason it is imperative to repot a new succulent is if the old pot does not have drainage holes.

This is fairly typical of succulents that are sold in stores. The lack of drainage holes makes it difficult to water the plant because any excess water stays at the bottom of the pot with nowhere to go, increasing the risk of root rot.

The plant may have outgrown the pot

Replacing the pot is also important in case the roots are already too crowded in the small pot. A succulent whose roots have nowhere to go can become rootbound, and this can lead to stunted growth, wilted leaves and even death if you let it go on too long.

How to repot a newly-bought succulent

Repotting a newly-bought succulent is like repotting any succulent, but you need to be extra careful not to damage the roots and leaves of a baby succulent.

Remove the plant from the old pot

The first thing you need to do is get the plant out of its original pot. When picking a new pot, choose one that has large enough drainage holes. It should have at least one hole that is an inch wide. The more holes at the bottom of the pot, the better, though.

If you have your heart set on a particular pot that is made of a material that cannot be drilled through, you can still use that pot, but then you need to add a layer of rocks at the very bottom before you put in any soil.

To remove the plant from its old pot, try squeezing the pot to help loosen the soil. This might not always work if the roots are crowded, in which case use a small knife to loosen the soil from the sides of the pot.

Gently tug on the plant to release it from the old pot, but make sure you do this slowly so as to not damage the succulent.

If you are still having a hard time removing the plant, you could just cut the old pot if it is made of thin enough plastic. If the old pot is terracotta, breaking it to free the plant is an option.

Repot the plant

Once you have removed the plant from its original pot, brush as much of the old potting mix from the roots as you can without damaging them. If there are roots that look particularly fragile, rather just leave a little bit of dirt on them.

Inspect the roots for sections that have turned brown or black. These are rotten roots and you will have to prune them off using a sterile pair of scissors.

Make sure only the healthy roots are left, and then lay the plant down on a dry paper towel to air-dry for several hours.

Fill your new pot a third of the way with succulent soil. Adjust the volume of soil according to the size of the plant and how tall you want it to stand from the top of the pot.

Make a hole in the middle of the soil and place the plant in it. Then add more soil to cover all the roots, but do not add so much that it covers any of the plant’s lower leaves. Leaves that are buried under the soil can rot.

Gently pat down the soil around the base of the plant to help secure its position and to make sure it does not fall over.

Do not water the soil immediately after repotting, because the fresh soil you used should contain enough moisture. You also do not want the plant to get accidentally overwatered because it is already stressed from being transplanted.

Wait at least one week before watering your newly-repotted plant. Then, check the soil’s moisture by touching it with your finger. If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Conclusion

Yes, repotting your newly-bought succulents is a good idea because the soil in the pot could be poorly-draining, the pot may not have drainage holes, and the roots may be crowded in the current pot. Furthermore, you will be able to check the current state of the plant’s roots, and you can check for the presence of pests and diseases. 

Repotting a new succulent from the store is just like repotting any other succulent, except you might need to be even more gentle because these plants are not always grown in the best conditions and could have very fragile roots and leaves.

Once you have repotted your new succulent, it should adjust to its new environment in a matter of weeks and you can then care for it as you would your other succulents.

Image: istockphoto.com / joloei

Yes, succulents are great plants to have in your home or office, because they can indeed help to purify the air.

There are dozens of possible sources of harmful chemicals and toxins in our homes, including furniture, ovens, household cleaners, paint, varnishes, and tobacco smoke.

Succulents absorb these toxins from the air and allow the people living in the home to breathe cleaner air.

In this article, we will discuss not only the reasons that succulents are good for purifying the air but also the other health benefits they offer by merely existing.

If you wish to learn more about which specific succulents can purify the air so you can add them to your collection, then keep reading.

What makes toxins in indoor air so dangerous?

Indoor air can contain more than 800 different chemical and biological pollutants. These pollutants are invisible, and the most harmful ones are acetone, ammonia, chloroform, ethyl acetate, trichloroethylene, xylene, benzene, and formaldehyde.

These pollutants can easily trigger asthma attacks and allergic reactions, which can be life-or-death situations for a lot of people. Prolonged exposure to some of these pollutants has also been linked to increased risks of cancer.

These pollutants can come from ovens, carpets, paneling, furniture, fabrics, household cleaners, tobacco smoke, gas stoves, rubber, plastic, paints, and varnishes.

Ozone is one of the most serious contributors to indoor air pollution. It is a colorless gas that forms when oxygen reacts with chemicals. Seemingly benign machines in our homes, such as copy machines, ultraviolet lights, and laser printers, can create ozone.

It has only been in recent years that scientists have got definitive proof that certain plants can effectively remove toxins from enclosed spaces.

What are the symptoms of indoor air pollution?

In the early stages, indoor air pollution may not present with noticeable effects, but the longer the problem goes unresolved, the more serious the effects will be, so watch out for these symptoms that may suggest the presence of air toxins in your home.

Symptoms of exposure to indoor air toxins include coughing, asthma, allergies, itchy skin, dry skin, nausea, irritated eyes, irritated nose, irritated throat, headaches, and an inability to focus.

If you have any of these symptoms but they seemingly disappear the moment you leave your home or office, then there is a high possibility that you have indoor air pollution.

What are the best succulents for purifying air?

Snake plant

The snake plant is one of the most popular succulents in the world. This is because it is very easy to propagate and it is almost indestructible. It can tolerate poor living conditions and still thrive.

The snake plant can absorb toxins such as formaldehyde, toluene, xylene and benzene from the air. Place it in a spot where it gets indirect light and only water it when the soil in the pot is dry to the touch.

Not only will the snake plant purify the air in your home; it will also add a pop of color and beauty with its signature look.

Aloe

Aloes are a genus of flowering succulents, the Aloe vera variety being the most popular.

The Aloe is one of the top succulents when it comes to the ability to purify air. Some studies even claim that a single Aloe works just as well as several air purifiers.

Aloes can filter formaldehyde and benzene from the air. Not only this; they will also remove dust and carbon dioxide while providing oxygen.

Another health benefit of Aloes is that the gel inside their leaves can be used to treat cuts, burns and wounds.

Aloe vera’s leaves have a bright, beautiful, green color. They are thick and fleshy, because the plant stores water in them in case of drought. This plant is low-maintenance and very easy to propagate. All it needs is lots of sun, and water only when the soil in the pot is dry to the touch.

Corn plant

The corn plant has glossy green leaves with white or yellow stripes down the middle. It can reach up to 15 feet in ideal conditions, but when kept indoors, it will stay more compact, at five to eight feet. You can also always trim the plant down if you feel it has grown a little too tall for your liking.

The corn plant can remove formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethylene from the air.

It is relatively low-maintenance and can tolerate a certain level of neglect.

This plant is non-toxic to humans and animals and is safe to grow in your home. All it needs is some indirect light, and water only when the soil in its pot has dried out completely.

Janet Craig

The Janet Craig plant is another variety of Dracaena fragrans, the species to which the corn plant also belongs.

This plant can absorb benzene, formaldehyde, and trichloroethylene from the air in your home or office.

This hardy plant is very easy to grow and care for, and you can place it anywhere in your house to add a touch of color. Because it is not picky when it comes to lighting conditions, it will thrive just as well in a dreary office as it would in a bright patio.

Remember that these plants like humidity, so you might need to mist it once in a while, especially if the air is particularly dry.

Red-edged Dracaena

The red-edged Dracaena is also called the dragon tree. It has green leaves with reddish-purple edges. Some varieties also have green and red stripes with a white stripe down the center.

This is the Dracaena variety that is most effective at removing toxins from the air, and it can remove pollutants such as toluene, benzene, xylene and trichloroethylene. 

It is easy to care for and works well as a houseplant. Although it can grow quite tall, it is still a slow-growing plant, so you will not have to worry about having to trim it for at least a few years after taking it home.

This plant can tolerate drought and does not need to be watered that often.

Warneckii

The Warneckii is another variety of Dracaena fragrans, and was previously known as Dracaena deremensis.

This plant has greenish-gray leaves with white stripes. It is one of the shorter Dracaenas, reaching only around four feet in height.

It works very well as an indoor plant, not only because of its air-purifying abilities, but also because it is fine with growing in bright but indirect light.

Warneckiis like their soil to dry out between waterings, so make sure the soil is dry to the touch inside the plant’s pot before you water it.

What are the other health benefits of keeping succulents indoors?

Aside from purifying the air, certain succulents have other health benefits to offer.

Provide oxygen

One of the most obvious benefits of keeping succulents, or plants in general, is their ability to provide us with oxygen.

Unlike other plants that absorb oxygen at night, succulents continue to release oxygen through the night, just like they do in the daytime.

They are great plants to keep in your bedroom while you sleep because you will wake up in a room full of refreshed air each day. This can also help a lot with the quality of sleep you are getting.

Prevent illness

10 percent of the moisture in the atmosphere is water released by plants. Even in smaller quantities, like inside your home, they can improve the humidity which helps to prevent sore throats, coughs, colds, and dry skin.

There have been multiple studies that concluded that people were less likely to call in sick the more plants they had around them in their work area.

Helps with focus

Studies on both students and office workers have shown that when there is a plant in the room, brain capabilities, attentiveness and concentration are significantly improved.

A University of Michigan study even found that memory retention improved by almost 20 percent when plants were present in the room.

You can do this for your own bedroom or office cubicle. Choose succulents that are compact and will not take too much space on your table. This might be all that is missing from you getting that 4.0 average.

Faster recovery from illness

Kansas State University researchers conducted a study and found that patients in a hospital room with plants in it required less medication for pain, had lower heart rates and blood pressure and tended to experience less anxiety and fatigue.

Conclusion

Yes, some succulent species have the ability to absorb toxins from the air. Not only do they make great additions to the decor in your home, but they are also silently helping you and your family to become healthier by making sure the air you breathe is clean and free of toxins.

Examples of succulents that have great air-purifying capabilities are the snake plant, Aloe, corn plant, Janet Craig, red-edged Dracaena and Warneckii.

Keep these plants in your living room or bedroom to help you sleep better at night.

Image: istockphoto.com / kynny

Collecting succulents has become a very popular hobby over the past few years. This popularity is partly due to the fact that many of these plants are easy and inexpensive to procure.

People also love succulents because they are typically low-maintenance plants that do not need too much attention in order to thrive. Simply give them lots of sunlight and good drainage and they can pretty much take care of themselves.

Many succulents can be quite easy to propagate and are readily available in your local store or nursery, but there are some that are difficult to get hold of, and these types can be very expensive.

In this article, we will list some of the rarest and most expensive succulents in the world. If you want to learn more about these extraordinary succulent species, then keep reading.

16 Most expensive succulents

1. Conophytum subglobosum

This succulent is native to South Africa and is a small, flowering plant that grows in groups. It likes lots of full sunlight and only needs to be watered when the soil in the pot is dry to the touch. Allowing the soil to dry out properly between waterings helps to avoid overwatering the plant and risking root rot.

This plant is drought-tolerant because it can absorb and store water in its body for when water availability becomes scarce.

The price of this succulent depends on the size of the plant. It is moderately expensive, but if you are prepared to grow the plant from seeds, you might be able to save a significant amount of money as the seeds are cheaper.

2. Peyote

The Peyote is a succulent native to Mexico. It has become increasingly rare because it is highly coveted for its hallucinogenic properties. It has been classified as an illegal substance because of this, and the only legal way to consume it is by belonging to the Native American Church.

Peyote is so rare that getting one can cost a person anywhere between 400 and 500 dollars. This high price will most likely keep increasing the more endangered the succulent becomes.

The Peyote loves being in a spot where it can get lots of bright sunlight. These succulents are quite small and produce white and pink flowers if they are kept warm, as these conditions encourage growth.

3. Pachyphytum compactum

This is another succulent that is native to Mexico, as well as to Peru. It is hardy to zones 9 to 11, and is able to grow quite actively even during the winter. 

This small cactus species is also called the little jewels succulent and is relatively easy to identify because of its distinct patterns. 

Pachyphytum compactum may not be as expensive as some other succulents on this list, but they are still very hard to come by which is why you might have to pay a fair amount for one.

4. Ariocarpus trigonus

This is another succulent native to Mexico, that is hardy to zones 9 to 11.

It is also commonly known as the seven star cactus, and is one of the small cacti that can be found in the Mexican desert.

If you plan on buying this succulent, make sure that you live in a place where it will be able to get lots of sunlight.

This plant is endangered and can run you up anywhere between 50 to 120 dollars, depending on its size.

You can also grow this succulent in a container indoors, because it does fine in room temperature. Only water the plant when the soil in the pot is dry to the touch. In fact, it can survive even if you neglect to water it for up to a year.

5. Tephrocactus articulatus

This succulent, native to Argentina, is a flowering plant that can survive in hardiness zones 8 to 10. It is also known as the paper spine cactus. 

This cactus is also quite small, and produces pink, yellow or white flowers. It likes to be exposed to lots of direct sunlight and to be watered only when the soil in the pot is dry to the touch.

This is one of the most expensive succulents, costing up to 645 dollars a plant.

This is most likely because it is close to impossible to come across this succulent in the wild. The paper spine cactus that is the rarest is the black-spined type.

6. Euphorbia obesa

The Euphorbia obesa is also known as the baseball plant. Its aesthetic makes it a great choice for an indoor plant. 

It has a small, bulbous stem and produces small flowers when it is well cared-for. 

This plant likes to get lots of direct sunlight.

This succulent species is becoming endangered and is very rare to find, even in the wild. One plant can cost up to 50 dollars, which may not seem that expensive, but you will understand when you see how small the plant actually is.

7. Echeveria x imbricata

This succulent is actually a hybrid of Echeveria glauca and Echeveria metallica. It is native to Mexico and is hardy to zones 9 to 12.

This succulent can grow up to eight inches tall and makes a great indoor plant. It grows well in the shade as well as in sunnier areas.

It is lovely to look at because of the rosette formation of its leaves, which gives the plant a lovely symmetrical shape.

One Echeveria x imbricata plant can cost around 60 dollars.

8. Adromischus maculatus

The succulent, also known as calico hearts, is native to South Africa and is hardy to zones 9 to 11.

It is immediately recognizable because of its thick stems, and it likes bright sunlight and warm weather.

This succulent can grow to be over a foot tall and produces white and pink flowers from its branches.

It can be quite a challenge to find one of these plants, so they can cost around 45 dollars a piece.

9. Adromischus cooperi

This plant is also called the plover eggs succulent and it is native to South Africa. It is hardy to zones 9 to 11.

The plover eggs succulent is a slow-growing, diminutive succulent that only ever reaches four inches in height. 

It is not the most expensive succulent, but it is so rare that if you do get your hands on one, it will still cost a pretty penny.

10. Adromischus cristatus

This succulent is also known as the crinkle leaf plant and is native to South Africa. It is hardy to zone 9 to 10.

This is another small, low-maintenance plant that grows to about 17 inches high. The crinkle leaf plant needs to get six hours of sunlight a day and might need to be watered more often than most succulents. You can propagate this succulent using its leaves.

One crinkle leaf plant can cost around 30 dollars, but the price depends on the size of the plant when you buy it.

There are fewer and fewer crinkle leaf plants available on the market, which is why you might find them a bit expensive.

11. Faucaria tuberculosa

This succulent is also called the pebbled tiger jaws succulent. It is native to South Africa and is hardy to zones 9 to 11.

It has little bumps on its leaves that make them look like animal jaws with teeth, especially when looking at the plant from above.

This succulent may like to be watered more often than the typical succulent, but it is also able to tolerate higher temperatures. It grows actively during the spring and fall seasons.

The pebbled tiger jaws can run you up around 60 dollars a piece, because of how rare it has become in recent years.

12. Graptoveria

The Graptoveria forma cristata, also known as the Fred Ives succulent, is a hybrid between Echeveria gibbiflora and Graptopetalum paraguayense.

This succulent is native to Mexico and is hardy to zones 9 to 11. It can grow up to 24 inches in height and does not need to be watered until its soil has dried out completely between waterings.

It can grow well in both partial and full sunlight which is why it can make a great indoor plant as well.

This is a rare hybrid species of succulent, which is why it may be quite expensive.

13. Aloe haworthioides

This succulent is also known as the haworthia-leaved Aloe and is native to the island of Madagascar.

It is another small variety of succulent and is hardy to zone 9.

You can leave this plant under the sun for extended periods of time, but it can also be kept indoors since it is able to adapt to different lighting conditions.

This is a very exotic and rare succulent, which is why it can cost you around 1,200 dollars for one plant.

14. Haworthia cuspidata variegata

This succulent is native to South Africa and is hardy to zones 10 and 11. Also known as the star window plant, it has thick, fleshy leaves that grow in a rosette formation.

This succulent can also be kept indoors as it prefers only partial exposure to the sun.

It also does quite well when only provided with artificial light, so it will do just fine indoors under a grow light during the winter.

One star window plant can cost around 92 dollars because they are rare and hard to find.

15. Gymnocalycium mihanovichii

This low-maintenance succulent, native to South America, is also known as the moon cactus.

It is hardy to zones 11 and 12 and likes being under bright sunlight, but it will also do just fine in partial shade.

The moon cactus does not need a warm climate to thrive; it will continue to grow in moderate temperatures.

This succulent can cost around 995 dollars per plant because of its rarity.

16. Astrophytum asterias

This succulent is also known as the sand dollar cactus, because its shape is similar to that of a sand dollar. It is native to Texas and Mexico and is hardy to zones 8 and 9.

This is a slow-growing succulent that will grow best under the care of a patient owner. It likes lots of sunlight and can grow up to two inches high. It produces yellow flowers that grow from its thick stem in the spring.

A sand dollar cactus costs around 60 dollars because it is rare even in its native regions.

Conclusion

Succulent collecting is a wonderful hobby that anyone can pursue, because there are thousands of different plants to choose from. Finding rare ones, however, can be especially fulfilling. If you have amassed a large succulent collection and wish to add some rarer varieties, you can choose from the ones listed above, which are some of the rarest and most expensive succulents in the world.

Succulents are not only unique and beautiful; they can also be a source of pride and joy for you, your family and your friends to admire.

Despite being specially formulated for African violets, African violet soil is actually quite similar in characteristics to what ideal succulent soil would be.

African violet soil has relatively similar drainage and consistency as succulent soil.

It contains vermiculite, peat moss and perlite to make it well-draining, and slow-release nutrients which help prolong growth.

Succulents are native to some of the driest regions on earth and they can survive on very little water, so they get overwatered quite easily. The African violet soil has sufficient aeration and drainage to support this characteristic of succulents.

In this article, we will dive further into why you can use African violet soil for your succulents in a pinch. So, if you are considering doing this and wish to learn more, just keep reading.

What are the characteristics of succulent soil and African violet soil?

Succulent soil has a slightly to moderately acidic pH of about 4 to 6.5. It is light and fluffy with lots of air. Succulent soil also drains very well to allow the plant’s roots to dry out completely between waterings.

African violet soil has a pH of 6 to 6.5, and is also quite loose and porous. Water also drains well from this soil, since African violets are also prone to root rot.

What are the differences between African violet soil and regular potting soil?

Regular potting soil contains a lot of actual soil, which makes it retain water a little too well for either African violets or succulents.

African violet soil is usually a combination of 50 percent peat moss and 50 percent vermiculite and perlite. These additives reduce water retention and promote good air flow to the roots.

Regular potting soil contains a lot of nutrients, but it still needs to be replenished often.

The vermiculite in African violet soil improves the soil greatly, and the soil retains nutrients well. This is because nutrients are slow-released into African violet soil so that the plant always has a constant feed.

Vermiculite also helps anchor new roots, which is why African violet soil is a good choice to use for baby succulents.

How to repot succulents in African violet soil

Now that we know that succulents can grow in African violet soil, you can transplant your succulents.

First, you need to carefully remove the succulent from its old pot or container. You do this by tipping the container to one side while also holding the plant at its base.

Slowly turn the plant until it is pointing downwards and start tapping the bottom of the container.

If the plant does not dislodge from the container easily, you can use an old knife or a stick to help loosen the soil from the sides of the container.

You can also tug on it gently to help ease the plant out, but if you are having a really hard time getting it out, you may need to break the pot rather than risk damaging the plant’s roots.

When you have removed the plant from its pot, there will probably be clumps of dirt remaining on the root ball of the succulent which you will need to remove before you can replant it. You can do this by gently tapping on the roots, or you can brush it off.

Once you have removed as much dirt from the roots as you can, inspect them closely.

Look for any root segments that have turned brown or black; these sections are rotten and you will need to remove them. Use a sterile pair of scissors to prune away the rotten roots.

After the roots have been completely cleaned, lay the plant down on a paper towel and let the roots air-dry for several hours.

You do not need to place it under the sun; just let it dry out on a table.

When the plant’s roots have completely dried out, prepare a new pot that is one size bigger than the previous pot and fill it about two-thirds with African violet soil.

Place the succulent in the center and fill the pot all the way up with more soil so that all the roots are covered.

Only the roots should be buried and none of the leaves, because burying the leaves can cause them to rot.

Water the soil around the base of the succulent until it feels moist. Make sure not to overwater it because this can stress out the newly-transplanted succulent.

The next time you plan to water the soil, check it first by touching it. If the soil is dry to the touch, water the plant, but if it is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

What is a succulent’s ideal soil?

The best way to care for any plant is to simulate its natural habitat as best as you can. In nature, succulents grow in gritty soil that gets saturated when there is rainfall but will also dry out quickly when the sun comes back out.

Thus, the main characteristic of any ideal succulent soil is that it is well-draining. The succulent’s ability to absorb and store water in case of drought makes it very susceptible to root rot if kept in constantly wet soil.

There are several factors that dictate how long soil in a succulent’s pot remains wet. These include the amount of water you give, the amount of sunlight the plant gets, the airflow around the roots, and the structure of the soil.

This means that not all tips for succulent soil will work for all gardeners. If you are growing your succulents outdoors in a hot, windy climate, you may need soil that is denser than normal so that you do not have to water so frequently.

Indoor succulents will have less exposure to wind, so they will do better in grittier soil.

Make sure the pot you are using for your succulent has drainage holes at the bottom. If it does not, you can always drill some holes. These holes are so that any excess water that reaches the soil can simply flow out again, thus reducing the likelihood of overwatering and root rot.

Can I make my own succulent soil?

Yes, you can make your own succulent soil mix at home, which you can customize to your own plants’ needs.

To make a balanced succulent soil, mix one part organic materials to two parts mineral materials.

Organic materials you can choose from include coconut coir, compost, pine bark or regular potting soil.

Mineral materials include gravel, pumice, perlite or coarse sand.

You can mix and match any one from each group as long as you do not forget the one-to-two ratio.

Conclusion

Yes, you can use African violet soil for succulents, because it has most of the characteristics that succulents look for in a growing medium.

African violet soil is also loose and airy and it drains water well. It also contains additives that slow the release of nutrients so that you will not have to constantly fertilize your plant.

If you find yourself in a dilemma where the only option is to use African violet soil for your succulents, then you are in luck because it should work just fine.

When you transplant your succulent into the African violet soil, make sure the pot has drainage holes at the bottom so that even if you accidentally pour too much water into the pot, the excess will simply flow out through the bottom of the pot.

Image: istockphoto.com / Osobystist

Countless images of succulents growing in arid areas lend to the misconception that they require a lot of sunlight or, at the very least, can tolerate direct and prolonged exposure to it. But, while different types of succulents need different lighting conditions, all of them will get sun damaged after too much exposure to direct sunlight.

In this article, we will take a look at the different lighting conditions required by succulents to survive and thrive. 

How much sunlight do succulents need?

The sunlight needs of succulents may differ slightly according to the species. However, four to six hours of morning sunlight is the general recommendation. In the afternoons, when the intensity is higher, filtered or indirect sunlight is ideal.

A simple tip to remember is that green and gray succulents mostly do well in low light, while burgundy and darker-colored succulents require more sunlight. Having said that, it is still important to pay attention to whether your particular succulents’ needs are satisfied.

Succulents need to receive just the right amount of sunlight daily, and unhealthy growth or even death can result from too little or too much of it. Etiolation, browning and shriveling are all indicators that your succulents’ light requirements are not being met.

Too little

Understanding the lighting needs specific to a type of succulent is key to retaining its form and maintaining its overall health. Still, some succulent growers, especially novices, may get it wrong. 

When they do not receive sufficient sunlight, succulents undergo a process known as etiolation, in which the stems become elongated and spindly in the plants’ efforts to stretch towards a light source. 

The color of etiolated succulents also appears washed-out in contrast to the vibrance of those that receive adequate light. Fortunately, this discoloration can be corrected. However, the elongated stems will be permanent.

Because the etiolation process is irreversible, early detection and correction are imperative and it is important to know the early signs to look out for. If you notice that your succulents are beginning to stretch out and look discolored, simply move them to an area where they can receive more sunlight. This will effectively halt the etiolation. 

Too much

Even for hardy, light-loving succulents, there is such a thing as too much sunlight. Direct exposure over long periods results in damage that initially manifests as brown spots on the foliage. The worst-case scenario is the succulent shriveling up and dying. 

Some delicate types of succulents require less sunlight than others and are more prone to sunburn. Baby succulents, newly propagated succulents, and those that have been kept indoors also do not fare well in direct sunlight. 

Slowly acclimatizing succulents to direct sunlight will ensure that they receive their required exposure without getting scorched. Succulents also need protection and could use some shade, especially in the summer when the sunlight is most intense. 

Can succulents grow in artificial light?

Succulents can grow in artificial light provided that it meets their needs. Note that your regular lights do not emit the light spectrum that is necessary for plant growth. Artificial lights known as grow lights are specifically designed for this purpose.

There are succulents that are better suited as house plants than others, and those that require more sunlight will be more prone to etiolation if kept indoors. However, this pathological condition can be prevented with the use of grow lights.

Grow lights are also useful in the winter when the sunlight is less intense and the days are shorter. Your succulents may do just fine without them, but they will most certainly benefit from them as they ensure there is no dip in the daily dose of light.

Can succulents grow in shade?

Some succulents fare quite well with less sunlight and can grow in shade. In their natural environment, they get this shade from taller plants or boulders. These succulents generally have green or gray foliage and can be grown in shadier areas of the garden or indoors. 

Succulents are among the most popular houseplants, but some people find it a bit challenging to keep them healthy indoors. Opting for low-light succulents is the most practical solution; you can find examples of this type below.

Succulents that thrive in low light

1. Aloe

Succulents such as Aloe vera and others in this genus can thrive in low light conditions and indirect sunlight is usually sufficient for them.

2. Echeveria

Species of Echeveria, typically known for their rosettes, cannot tolerate the intensity of full sunlight and require low light or partial shade. 

3. Gasteria

Succulents of the genus Gasteria are a popular option for indoor plants as they do very well in low light conditions. When outdoors, they require protection from direct sunlight.

4. Haworthia

Haworthias are healthiest when grown in bright conditions. However, they cannot tolerate full sunlight and need protection. Consequently, they have adapted to low light conditions in which they can thrive.

5. Rhipsalis

The conditions in the rainforests to which Rhipsalis are native mean that they require indirect sunlight to thrive, making them ideal houseplants. 

Succulents that thrive in more sunlight

1. Aeonium

Aeoniums thrive in full sunlight, but succulents of this genus may still need some shade in the summer heat. 

2. Agave

Agave species require, as a minimum, the higher end of the succulent requirement of four to six hours of sunlight. 

3. Euphorbia

Like agaves, succulents of the genus Euphorbia require at least six hours of direct sunlight daily, but also benefit from some shade in the afternoons. 

4. Opuntia

Commonly known as the prickly pear cactus, the Opuntia genus is a desert cactus. As such, it thrives under full sunlight and should get no fewer than six hours of direct sunlight daily.

5. Senecio

The preferences of Senecios depend on the climate where they are grown. They generally require full sun; however, those growing in desert climates need bright but indirect sunlight.

Conclusion

In general, succulents need four to six hours of sunlight daily. This would ideally be morning sunlight. The intensity of the afternoon sun may cause scald for several varieties of succulents. 

See to it that your succulents receive the right amount of light exposure. Too much sunlight will result in sun damage that may begin as brown spots and progress to all-out shriveling, while too little sunlight will result in an irreversible pathological condition known as etiolation.

Some succulents thrive in full sunlight; others in low light conditions. The different light requirements of different varieties should be taken into consideration when planning for outdoor gardens or indoor houseplants. 

Image: istockphoto.com / kynny

Hummingbirds are great pollinators for plants of many types, and they also provide this service for succulents. 

If you have noticed hummingbirds coming into your garden, it would be a great idea to provide them with some succulents they might like.

In this article, we will discuss the various succulents that attract hummingbirds. If you plan to host hummingbirds in your garden and you want to learn more about which succulents are their favorites, just keep reading.

Why are hummingbirds attracted to succulents?

Some succulents have bright, tubular flowers held high on tall stems, and it is these that entice hummingbirds to feed from them. And, while feeding from the flowers, they are also pollinating the plants.

9 succulents that attract hummingbirds

1. Echeveria

Echeverias are beautiful flowering succulents that have tall flower stalks. The flowers produced by echeverias can be red, white, yellow, orange or pink.

The flower stalks are called inflorescences; they grow from the middle of the plant and can grow up to a foot tall.

Each inflorescence can have at least ten small flowers that open one after the other.

Echeveria flowers bloom during the late spring and early summer,  but there are some varieties that can bloom all the way into the fall.

Echeverias will continue blooming every year as long as they have good care and ideal living conditions.

2. Agave

Agave plants do not bloom as often as other succulents. It can take them years between blooms, but do not worry as this is normal.

Often, it takes an agave plant a decade before it even has its first bloom.

A mature plant will grow a stalk from its center, and this is where the flowers will bloom from. The stalk will continue growing until it gets quite tall. After a while, smaller branches will start to appear on the main stalk, and soon these will form clusters.

The clusters will house the flowers, which are rich in nectar. This nectar is what hummingbirds are attracted to, and while feeding on it they will pollinate the plant.

3. Aloe

Another succulent to have in your garden to attract hummingbirds is the aloe.

Aloes are low-maintenance, easy-to-care-for succulents that are able to tolerate poor light conditions and drought.

The aloe’s blooms grow from an inflorescence which grows from the center of its leaf rosettes.

It may take the plant until the age of four years before it can produce flowers, so do not be impatient if your aloes have no flowers yet; they might just be too young at the moment.

The aloe’s inflorescence will have tubular orange or yellow blooms dangling in a cluster from the top of the stalk.

Once all of the flowers have died and fallen off, you can just prune away the flower stalk.

4. Dudleya

Not all dudleya species produce flowers, but the ones that do make a great addition to your hummingbird-friendly garden.

One such variety is the chalk dudleya, which is a succulent native to Southern California.

The mature chalk dudleya has between one to five flower stalks that grow from between its basal leaves.

These stalks are covered with leafy bracts that may look alot like basal leaves.

The stalks will fork into three to six branches.

Hummingbird pollination works quite well for the bisexual flowers on the chalk dudleya.

5. Gasteria

Gasterias look quite similar to aloes, but their leaves typically have a rougher texture. 

They are native to South Africa and can tolerate low light conditions as well as drought.

Depending on the gasteria species, these succulents can have some very interesting colors and patterns on their leaves.

It is best to plant your gasteria in the spring so that it can thrive in conditions that are closer to what it would get in its natural habitat.

Mature gasterias will produce curved, tubular, red or pink flowers during the spring and winter, which will attract your local hummingbird population in no time.

6. Opuntia

There are over 200 species of opuntia and they are native to both North and South America.

Opuntias are very unique-looking succulents because their large, green segments are not actual leaves. Rather, they are stem segments, called cladodes, that store water.

Evolutionarily, the leaves have turned into spines to protect the plant from animals that might want to eat it.

The flowers on the opuntia are yellow and cup-shaped. They are very attractive to hummingbirds, not only because of their bright color but also because of their size, which is larger than most succulents’ flowers.

7. Pachyphytum

This is a genus of slow-growing succulents native to Mexico.

Their plump, fleshy leaves form loose rosettes that range in color from orange to purple to green.

The plant itself may be grape-shaped and is typically covered in a powdery coating called farina.

Pachyphytum produces greenish-white and deep red bell-shaped flowers during the spring and summer, which grow from spiky inflorescences.

8. Sinningia

The sinningia is a genus of succulents native to Brazil. They are relatively low-maintenance and can grow quickly. A plant that was sown in the spring can bloom later in the same year.

The plant will bloom from April to August, producing large, tubular, bright red flowers that hummingbirds will be easily attracted to.

9. Schlumbergera

The schlumbergera is more commonly known as the Christmas cactus.

It produces small, flat, round stem segments with serrations on both edges of the segment.

Once buds have started to form at the end of the segments, the blooms should start to appear after roughly 12 weeks. This often occurs around Christmas time, hence the name of the plant.

The flowers have a pink, pollen-bearing stamen, and this is what the hummingbird will come into contact with as it feeds on the flower, effectively pollinating the plant.

Conclusion

Hummingbirds are some of the most effective pollinators in the animal kingdom. They feed on the nectar of plants’ flowers, carrying away pollen that they then spread to other flowers.

Not only do hummingbirds like regular flowers; they also like feeding from the flowers of succulents. So, if you want more frequent visits from your hummingbird friends, choose a few succulents from our list above and you should have hummingbird sightings on the daily from now on.

Yes, succulents do attract pollinating insects such as bees, butterflies and moths. They also attract pollinating animals, such as bats and hummingbirds.

These pollinators love feeding from the flowers of succulents, just as they would from the flowers of any other plant. It is a great idea to add flowering succulents to your outdoor garden for your pollinator friends to come and enjoy.

In this article, we will discuss more about why pollinators are attracted to succulents and how you can use this to your advantage to have a better garden.

If you wish to learn more about pollinators and succulents, just keep reading.

Why are pollinators important for succulents?

Pollinators are important for succulents because they help create genetic diversity. This will benefit the species as this means the plant develops to acquire more successful traits.

We all know that planting a cutting from a mature plant is one of the easiest ways to reproduce a succulent, and this ability of succulents to propagate is fascinating.

Their ability to reproduce through broken leaves or limbs is an evolutionary adaptation and the plant’s response to damage from the elements such as wind, animals, falling branches and other things. Having thus adapted, whenever the plant is damaged and loses a leaf or a limb, it is just another opportunity for it to produce more copies of itself.

Unfortunately, this also means that the new plant will share exactly the same genetic makeup as its parent plant, so whatever unfavorable traits the parent plant had, the new plant will also have.

In order to correct these poor traits, sexual reproduction through pollination is still necessary, which is why pollinators will always be important to succulents.

Can a succulent get pollinated in other ways, aside from pollinators?

No. Unfortunately, succulents are not like other plants that can be pollinated by wind, water or even self-pollination.

Succulents rely on animal pollination because of how their flowers have evolved. The shape of their flowers have evolved according to their native pollinators, and their colors and scents have evolved specifically to attract certain types of pollinators over others. This is why different succulents from different regions of the world have very differently-shaped flowers.

The presence of these pollinators ensures the continuation and health of wild succulent populations.

When you plant succulents in your garden, make sure you have a large enough variety of flower colors to entice and attract all types of pollinators into your garden.

Are all types of pollinators available throughout the year?

Yes, these pollinators need to feed all year round, in the same way humans need food. And, while there are some butterfly species that migrate thousands of miles, most pollinators do not migrate and tend to stay close to their home.

Although most succulents bloom in the spring and summer, there are varieties that do bloom all the way through fall. 

When planting succulents in your garden, make sure you include succulents and plants that bloom at various times of the year so that there will always be flowers for the pollinators to feed on.

Which succulents attract which pollinators?

Bees

The United States alone has over 4,000 different bee species, and there are many thousands more in the rest of the world.

Most of the food consumed by humans is directly affected by bee pollination, which is why these insects are so important for the environment.

Adding succulents to your garden not only helps your garden but also your local bee population.

Succulents that attract bees are those that form bloom clusters, which bees find very attractive, such as aichryson, crassula, aeonium, delosperma, dudleya, echinocactus, pectinaria, sedum, sempervivum, stapella and senecio.

Butterflies

Butterflies love succulents that have long-lasting blooms, such as sempervivum and sedum.

Other succulent species loved by butterflies are aichryson, aeonium, calandrinia, crassula, jovibarba, opuntia and senecio.

Moths

Moths are nocturnal pollinators and are usually attracted to the paler blooms; not the vibrant ones that attract other pollinators.

Those succulents that prefer moths release a sweet scent to attract them.

Succulents that attract moths are sansevieria, agave, epiphyllum, cereus, and yucca.

Hummingbirds

Hummingbirds are adept at feeding on bright, tubular flowers that stand atop tall stalks.

There are several succulents that attract hummingbirds, including agave, aloe, echeveria, dudleya, gasteria, opuntia, pachyphytum, sinningia and schlumbergera.

Bats

Bats are also nocturnal pollinators for succulents. They are actually one of the primary pollinators of the agave plants that are used to make tequila.

When bats move among the blooms of the succulents, the fur on their faces collects a lot of pollen which they carry with them to other plants.

Aside from agave, bats are also attracted to cereus, hylocereus, yucca and saguaro.

What makes an effective pollinator garden?

When you are designing a pollinator garden, you need to take into account the needs of your visitors. There should be water and shelter available for these pollinators, as well as food for their young.

For example, if you have butterflies in your garden, allocate a portion of the garden as a foraging area for the caterpillars.

Use pesticides as little as possible and, if you absolutely need to, only spray during the night as this is when most pollinators are inactive.

You do not need a large garden to make pollinators happy. They will appreciate any flowers available. Even a single container of mixed succulents on a patio or balcony is welcoming enough for the occasional pollinating insect.

Pollinators add health, color, life and fertility to any garden, and it is only right that we thank them for their service by providing them with the plants they like the most.

Conclusion

Yes, succulents do attract pollinating insects such as bees, butterflies and moths, as well as pollinating animals like bats and hummingbirds. 

Their flowers have even evolved according to the types of pollinators that frequently come into contact with them. Which succulents you can grow to entice pollinators will depend on what type of pollinators live in your area.

Pollinators are essential members of the ecosystem because they facilitate the sexual reproduction of plants, which supports their genetic diversity and health.

Image: istockphoto.com / LagunaticPhoto