Audrey Woods

People who work nine-to-five jobs spend most of their week inside the office. And, if your house is a relaxing oasis with plenty of plants and greenery, why should your workplace be any different?

Plants bring a certain level of calm to any space they occupy. Some can even purify the air, which is a plus, especially considering the recycled air in the confines of an office.

One of the issues people face when bringing plants into the office is the lack of sunlight, but did you know that there are plants that can actually survive with very little light?

In this article, we will list the best plants for an office with no windows and very little natural light. So, if you are planning on adding a pop of color to your office but are not sure which plants will thrive, just keep reading.

9 best plants for office with no windows

1. Snake plant

The snake plant is often dubbed the unkillable plant because of its ability to tolerate conditions that most plants cannot. It can live through drought and low light conditions and still thrive, which is why it makes a great office plant.

This low-maintenance plant has tall, fleshy leaves that give it the signature appearance loved by plant enthusiasts, and it can make any office space brighter.

There are also plenty of variegated varieties of snake plant so you can have multiple plants without being redundant.

Snake plants will do just fine in an office with no windows; all you have to do is to make sure you let the soil in the pot dry out between waterings. To check this, simply touch the top two inches of soil in the plant’s pot to see if it is dry. If the soil is dry to the touch, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Another reason snake plants are a great choice is because they typically only need to be repotted every three to five years. They are also inexpensive and quite easy to procure.

2. Non-variegated monstera

The Monstera has become one of the most popular plants in recent years, with its image appearing all over sites like Pinterest and Instagram. These plants are definitely the “it” plants at the moment, and the non-variegated varieties can actually make great options for dimly-lit offices.

One such variety is the Monstera deliciosa, with its huge, lush leaves that bring a tropical touch to any space. This plant looks great in the corner of a room.

If you only want a Monstera to place atop your table, there are varieties that are small enough for that, too.

These plants grow quite slowly and only need to be watered once a week. They also only need to be repotted every two to three years.

There are many varieties of Monstera, and the non-variegated ones are plentiful and relatively affordable.

3. Pothos

The Pothos plant is another low-maintenance plant that can tolerate being kept in an office with no windows. Even when given little care and attention, it can thrive and grow quickly. It is also easy to propagate, so you can have an office filled with greenery in no time.

The non-variegated varieties of Pothos are the ones that do better in low light conditions. Variegated varieties can lose their cream or yellow variegation when they do not get enough light, so keeping them in an office for their color may all come to naught.

Water the plant every one to two weeks provided the top two inches of the soil in the pot are dry.

Because these plants grow quickly, they will need to be repotted more often than most plants, so you will need to be vigilant about that.

They are available in most stores and are not expensive at all, so getting hold of them will not be a problem.

3. Spider plant

The spider plant is so named because of how the leaves hanging off the plant resemble spiders. This plant also requires very minimal care and attention which makes it perfect for the office.

As with most plants on this list, you only need to water the spider plant when the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch. This plant does appreciate a little more humidity than most, so you might need to mist the leaves every once in a while to help it out.

This plant is a relatively fast grower so you will probably have to repot it at least every two years.

It is easy to find and will not cost much, because it is so easy to propagate and grow.

4. Prayer plant

If you want a little more color on your office plant, the prayer plant is a great choice for you. This plant’s colorful leaves will fold upwards and against each other, resembling a pair of hands in prayer, hence the plant’s name. This happens every night, or when the plant needs to be watered, or when the temperature is a little high.

Water the plant once a week and do not let the soil dry out completely because the plant appreciates slightly moist soil.

This plant does not grow that fast, but its growth can be sped up with fertilizer. Just remember not to fertilize the plant during the fall or winter when the plant is dormant.

5. Chinese evergreen

The Chinese evergreen is another plant that needs little help to grow. Its leaves also come in different color combinations, so you can have several Chinese evergreens in your office.

Not only can this plant tolerate low light; it can also handle low humidity and drought. So, if you happen to forget to water it for a few days, it should have no problem bouncing back.

Check the top two inches of soil before watering the plant, which should be every one to two weeks. Repotting is typically required every two years.

These plants are inexpensive and are available from most suppliers.

6. Peace lily

The peace lily is a beautiful flowering plant that does well in artificial light, which makes it a great office plant.

Just keep the soil in the plant’s pot slightly moist at all times and everything else should be easy, care-wise. It might need to be misted occasionally because it does like humidity more than most other plants. Fertilize it once a month during the growing season of spring and summer.

This plant is quite common so you should have no problem finding it. It may need to be repotted once a year, so watch out for signs of an overcrowded pot, such as stunted growth and wilting leaves.

7. Peperomia

The Peperomia is another tropical plant, sufficiently low-maintenance that even novice gardeners can grow it. There are many different varieties of Peperomia, and all of them can tolerate the artificial lighting inside offices.

Water the plant only when the soil in the pot has dried out in order to prevent overwatering. Watering is typically required every two weeks because the plant has fleshy leaves that can store plenty of water in case of drought.

Peperomia under artificial light will not grow as quickly as those under natural sunlight, so repotting is infrequent at every two to three years.

These plants are easy to find, both in physical stores and online.

9. Aloe vera

Aloe vera is succulent and is commonly thought to be a plant that enjoys plenty of sun, which is true. But did you know that Aloe vera actually does quite well even in an office with no windows?

As with all succulents, aloes are sensitive to overwatering, so make sure you only water your plant when the soil is completely dry. They have thick, fleshy leaves that can store plenty of water, so even if you forget to water the plant for a few weeks, it will be perfectly fine.

Aloe vera grows slowly, so you will not need to repot it very often. It is inexpensive and widespread, and you could get your hands on one today if you wanted to.

Conclusion

The myth that all plants need natural sunlight in order to thrive should be long forgotten. There is an abundance of plants of different shapes, sizes, and colors that can grow under the artificial lighting of an office with no windows.

These plants are usually low-maintenance and need very little care and attention, while still providing a dreary office with a much-needed punch of life and color to help get you and your co-workers through the working week.

We all know that plants need to be exposed to a certain amount of light in order to survive and thrive. Some plants, when kept in low light conditions for extended periods of time, will be negatively affected and may even die. This can be an issue for people who live in houses that do not get very much light for most of the year. Does this mean they cannot grow any plants inside their home? Of course not; it is just a matter of finding the plants that do not need much light to thrive.

In this article, we will discuss the various plants that do not need much sunlight, specifically the hanging varieties. So, if you are worried about your home being too dark and want to know which hanging plants you can grow, then keep reading.

Hanging plants that do not need sunlight

1. Sweetheart plant

The sweetheart plant is also known as the heartleaf philodendron. This plant grows very quickly and has heart-shaped leaves that make it one of the most sought-after houseplants.

It is also one of those hanging plants that generally prefer being indoors than outdoors because its leaves are sensitive to drying out if left under the sun for too long.

This plant does need to be watered as much as many others, and it can also withstand a wide range of temperatures.

The sweetheart plant can be placed near a window where it can get indirect light, but it can also tolerate low light. If you place it near a window and notice the foliage turning yellow, that could mean it is getting too much light and you may need to transfer it to a different spot.

This plant grows well in hanging baskets with its foliage spilling over the edge. Its leaves can grow to four inches long, while its stems can reach four feet long.

2. Pothos

Pothos are very popular hanging plants that can also tolerate low light conditions. These plants are low-maintenance and also provide the added benefit of being able to purify the air in your home.

There are many different pothos varieties, with different patterns of green, white and cream colorations on their leaves. They make great office or bathroom plants because they do not mind the dreary lighting in these rooms.

Do not worry about placing these plants on the windowsill; they will do just fine getting a few hours of direct light. Just make sure you do not place them under direct light all day.

Let your pothos climb a pole or a nearby structure so that it does not become leggy and so that it has something to cling onto as it grows.

3. Chinese evergreen

The Chinese evergreen is another plant that can be placed in a hanging basket and does not need a lot of light to survive.

The leaves of this plant have such lovely, festive colors that they can brighten any space. If you are looking for a more tropical feel, then this plant is the one for you.

Take note that the Chinese evergreen may only work as a hanging plant for the first few years of its life, because as it matures it can get quite big and may look awkward in a planter. Do not worry though, because you can simply repot it into a bigger container and place it on the floor or on a table, and it can still be kept indoors.

Chinese evergreens do not do well in bright light conditions, so avoid placing your plant near a window that lets in lots of light. Rather tuck it away in the darker corners of your living room and the plant should be completely fine.

4. Spider plant

One of the most popular hanging plants is the spider plant. This plant gets its name from the fact that its leaves hang out to the sides, making it look like a spider.

This plant is low-maintenance and will require very little of you when it comes to plant care.

Just like the pothos, spider plants also have air purifying properties which is always a plus for indoor plants.

Spider plants actually have no problem in places with lots of light, but they also do well in low light conditions. Because these plants have no specific preference when it comes to light, they can be placed in any part of the house, no matter the source of light.

They make beautiful hanging plants because their leaves hang over the sides of the pot or basket and lend a very jungly feel to your living space.

Refrain from placing the plant where it will get persistent bright, direct light because this can burn the foliage.

5. Peperomia

The peperomia is another plant that looks great in hanging pots or baskets, and it is also quite low-maintenance. These plants do not tend to become too big, which means they look great for long periods in a hanging basket with their small, patterned leaves.

There are many varieties of peperomia and you may need to adjust your care and maintenance according to the requirements of the specific type you have.

Most peperomias like a higher temperature and humidity than many other plants, so be sure to cater to those needs as best you can to keep your plant happy.

You can try keeping your hanging peperomia in your bathroom since that is one of the most humid parts of a house and the plant will be okay in the low light conditions of a bathroom.

Never leave your peperomia in a spot where it is constantly under bright, direct light because this can cause its foliage to burn.

6. English ivy

The English ivy, or the common ivy, is a climbing plant that also makes a good indoor hanging plant. The longer the stems and the more leaves the plant has, the more beautiful the cascading foliage will look hanging from the edges of the hanging pot or basket.

English ivy does not mind low light conditions and actually hates too much light.

Because its natural habitat is woodlands, it is safe to say it has thrived for millennia in dark forests.

Hang your English ivy in a basket in your living room and get ready for it to take over your space with its rapid growth. 

You can also place the basket on the floor and let the plant crawl along the ground to add personality and depth to your room’s decor.

7. Staghorn fern

Staghorn fern fronds grow long and curl outwards, which is how the plant got its name.

There is no problem with placing your staghorn fern in a spot where it gets light, but never place it directly under the sun because this can cause the foliage to burn.

The best outdoor spot for the plant is under the shade of a large tree, but since we are talking about indoor plants, the staghorn fern also does well in low-light conditions inside your house.

Even when the plant is indoors, try to keep it a few feet away from a window, especially one that lets in lots of light, because this can still bun the plant’s fronds.

The staghorn fern is often displayed by mounting it on a piece of wood so that it has something to hold onto on your wall. It is a very unique-looking plant that will certainly become something of a statement piece in your living room.

8. Prayer plant

The prayer plant is another option that can be placed in a hanging basket, and this is also a flowering plant. It enjoys a higher humidity level than many other plants and soil that is well-draining and airy.

This plant likes bright, indirect light, but can survive in low light conditions without a problem. Just watch out for prayer plant stems that are becoming leggy, as this could be etiolation, which means the light is so sparse that the plant has purposefully started growing longer in one direction in order to reach the closest source of light.

Etiolation does not really have any chronic effects on the plant, but it does cause it to lose its symmetry. If you notice some legginess in your prayer plant, you might need to move it to a sunnier spot in your house.

9. Anthurium

If you are looking for a hanging plant with more vibrant colors, the anthurium is a good choice for you. There are hundreds of different anthurium varieties and all of them produce flowers.

It might seem weird to place your anthurium in a hanging basket, but it will actually look very striking and will wow any guest that visits your home.

Anthuriums like well-draining soil and hate standing in waterlogged soil. If the soil in the pot is always wet, this can lead to overwatering and the plant could get root rot. Root rot is a condition where the plant’s roots drown in constantly soggy soil. The dead roots will become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens, and these pathogens will cause the rot to spread even faster to the rest of the plant until the entire plant succumbs and dies. The signs of an overwatered plant with root rot are drooping and yellowing leaves.

The perfect light for the anthurium is bright, indirect light. The plant may do fine in low light conditions, but it will be much happier if it gets a few hours of bright light each day. Depriving the plant of sunlight can also limit the number of blooms.

10. Fittonia

The fittonia is another great choice for a hanging plant that is able to survive in low light conditions. This plant is native to parts of South America. Its leaves are mostly green, but they can have variations of purple, red, pink, and yellow.

If not for a hanging basket, this plant is also a great choice for a terrarium.

Use well-draining soil for this plant, to reduce the chances of overwatering and root rot. Even though the plant does well in low light, depriving it of light can affect the vibrancy of the colors on its leaves. So, if you do not want its colors to dull, place it closer to some light.

Fittonias can grow up to 18 inches tall if they are thriving and happy, and the happier the plant, the more lush and beautiful it will become.

Conclusion

Plants need light in order to survive, but each type of plant has its own preferred amount and type of light.

There are plants that like bright, direct light, while others prefer much less light and make good indoor plants.

There are a plethora of hanging plants that can survive and thrive in low light conditions, provided all their other needs are met. These plants are great for homes where there is little to no sunlight for several months of a year because they can still grow with no issues despite getting very little light.

Any of the plants listed above will make a great hanging plant in your home; it is a matter of personal preference as to which one you would prefer.

The peace lily is one of the most popular houseplants, in part because of its luscious green leaves, but mainly thanks to signature white flowers.

But when your peace lily blooms, why is it that the flowers turn brown seemingly overnight?

The most common reason your peace lily’s flower has turned brown is either because it has aged, or you have not been caring for the plant correctly, or the plant is stressed.

In this article, we will discuss more the reasons your peace lily’s flowers are turning brown, and what you can do about it.

If you are having this problem with your peace lily and you wish to learn more, just keep reading.

Why is my peace lily’s flower turning brown?

Natural aging

If you are doing everything right to keep your peace lily healthy but the flower has turned brown regardless, it might just be the natural progression of the flower as it passes through the stages of its life.

Before a peace lily flower opens up, it is green in color. As it opens, it starts turning white, becoming whiter the more open it is. Over time, the spadix eventually turns green again.

This happens because the seed is settling and pollination is happening. It is possible that the green spadix will once again turn white, but it could also turn brown.

This is completely normal and is a part of the plant’s life cycle. When a peace lily spadix turns brown, it is most likely an indication that the flower is about to wither and die.

Incorrect plant care

The peace lily is not what you would consider a low-maintenance plant. It cannot tolerate too many changes to its preferred living conditions, and the best way to ensure that the plant lives as long as possible is to make sure you are providing it with the best possible conditions.

One possible reason your peace lily’s flower may turn brown is that the plant has been exposed to direct sunlight for extended periods of time. This plant prefers being kept indoors and would rather be in a spot where it gets indirect light. Do not place this plant exclusively in a low light setting either, however, because this can also lead to problems. Remember that this is a plant, and all plants need a certain amount of light in order to live. Stippled or spotted light is best for the peace lily and could be the answer to saving your flowers from turning brown.

You can try simulating these lighting conditions by placing the plant near an east-facing window. If the only available window in your home is letting in harsh light, you can try to diffuse the intensity of the light by placing a sheer curtain over the window.

Another factor that might explain the change in the flower’s color is a drastic change in temperature. Peace lilies are native to the tropical areas of the Americas and Asia, so they prefer temperatures of 70 degrees and higher. If you live in a place where the temperature can dip below 60 degrees, you will need to adjust the temperature around the plant to help it fend off the cold.

Peace lilies like a higher humidity level than many other plants, so if you are in an arid place, help your peace lily by misting it every once in a while or by using a water pebble tray. Place this tray under the peace lily’s pot and, as the water evaporates, it will moisten the soil in the pot as well as the plant’s foliage. You can also place the plant near other humidity-loving plants so that together they can create a microclimate. If you have the means, you can also just buy a humidifier which will automatically regulate the humidity around the plant without you having to worry about it.

Another reason your peace lily’s flower is turning brown may be too much fertilizer. An excess of nutrients in the soil can be bad for the plant and may cause root burn. Frequent use of tap water, and all the minerals in it, can also cause similar problems for the plant, so if you have access to filtered water, choose that instead.

Lastly, giving the plant too much water can also cause the flower to turn brown. Overwatering can lead to root rot, and one of the symptoms of root rot is the yellowing and browning of the plant’s foliage.

The plant is stressed

When a peace lily, or any plant for that matter, is stressed, this can manifest as the browning of the flowers.

Reasons your peace lily may become stressed include overcrowding of the roots in the pot due to infrequent repotting; underwatering; overwatering; incorrect soil; too much sunlight; and a lack of nutrients.

The first sign that your plant is stressed is the yellowing and wilting of its leaves. If both the leaves and the spadix are turning brown, this is a telltale sign that the plant is very stressed. It is up to you to figure out the exact cause of the stress and correct it as soon as possible so that the plant can recover.

How many days is a peace lily flower supposed to last?

The flower itself will typically stick around for about ten days, but the spadix can last up to a month, after which it will die.

Sometimes, when the flower and the spadix die, it is an indication that the entire plant is going to follow soon afterward, but that is not always the case. The average lifespan of a peace lily is three to five years. If your one-year-old peace lily’s spadix has browned, do not throw the entire plant away because it still has a few years left to live and you will regret your rash decision.

Simply remove the brown spadix using a pair of sterilized scissors. Refrain from snapping off the dead spadix or flower, because you might end up damaging the plant without meaning to.

Conclusion

The most common reasons your peace lily flower may turn brown are natural aging, improper plant care, and stress.

It is possible that the browning flower and spadix are indicative of the plant’s impending death, but if the plant is still relatively young and the spadix and flower turn brown, just remove them using sterilized scissors, because the plant still has several years of life left. The spadix can still grow again and the plant will still be able to produce flowers.

The best you can do, as a peace lily owner, to keep the flower from turning brown is to make sure you are providing the plant with its ideal living conditions. Do not place it under direct light; rather place it in a spot where it only gets indirect light. Water it only when the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch, in order to avoid overwatering and root rot. Do not fertilize the plant too often and ideally give it filtered water, to prevent chemical or mineral buildup in the soil which can cause root burn.

If you are ensuring the happiness of your peace lily by providing all its needs, you are less likely to see browning flowers unless it is just part of the plant’s normal life cycle.

Image: istockphoto.com /  izzzy71

With the multitude of available avenues to procure plants nowadays, it may seem unnecessary even to attempt to grow your own plants from seed. However, there is a special sense of fulfillment and achievement when the full-grown plant you are admiring in front of you was once a seed that you yourself nurtured a few months before.

You do not need to challenge yourself excessively by attempting to grow a difficult plant from the outset. Rather, why not try some plants that are easy to grow and work your way up the difficulty scale?

In this article, we will list some of the easiest seeds to grow in a small, indoor garden. We will include both flowering plants and some vegetables. So, if you are thinking about starting an indoor garden and are looking for plants to include, then keep reading.

13 Easiest seeds to grow indoors

1. Coleus

The coleus plant is a popular indoor houseplant with leaves that come in a variety of color combinations. Its luscious pink, green and purple colors are even more pronounced when they are not under direct sunlight, which means they do well as indoor plants.

You can choose from a multitude of coleus varieties, but the process of growing them from seed will be virtually the same for all.

Fill your chosen container with starting soil and add the coleus seeds to it. Make sure the soil is always moist but never soggy, and keep the container in a room where the temperature is constantly between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. The seedlings should start appearing around two to three weeks after planting the seeds.

When the seedlings start to appear, transfer the container to a spot where they can get a little more light so they can continue to grow. A spot next to a window should be fine. If you planted the seeds in the fall or winter when light is scarce, you can help the seedlings out by buying a grow light.

2. Asparagus fern

Also known as Sprenger’s asparagus, this plant is actually neither of its namesakes. It is a plant native to South Africa and is a great little addition to any indoor garden.

You can buy the seeds as they are, but you can also use the seed inside the asparagus fern berry. Just remember to wear protective gloves when handling these berries because they can be an irritant on the skin.

If you are taking the seeds from the berries, cut the berries open with a small knife to easily remove the seeds. Once removed, let them dry out and then scarify them using some sandpaper. This will jumpstart the germination process.

Take your container and fill it about one third with starting soil, then place the seeds in the soil. Cover the seeds with what is left of the soil, moisten the soil a bit, and cover it with some plastic film wrap.

Keep the container at room temperature and the seedlings should start to appear after three to four weeks. Then, move the container to a spot where it can get more sunlight.

3. English ivy

The English ivy is a fast-growing plant that can reach substantial lengths if you allow it to grow unhindered. This is the perfect plant for someone who may be impatient and eager to see results as soon as possible.

Once you have got hold of your English ivy seeds, do not be too eager to plant them immediately. You will need to keep the seeds in your refrigerator for one to two months. After they have chilled in your fridge for that time, take them out and dump them into a bowl of water. Make sure the water in the bowl stays at room temperature and keep the seeds there until the following morning. This entire process will ensure that the seeds germinate faster.

In a shallow container, add about a quarter-inch layer of starting soil and place the seeds on top, making sure they are not buried underneath the soil. Moisten the soil and keep it that way until the plants start to grow.

4. African violet

If you want to add a flowering plant to your indoor garden, you can never go wrong with an African violet. There are over 20 different species of African violet for you to choose from, so you can plant several different kinds for a mix of colors and hues.

You can, of course, grow new African violets from cuttings, but growing them from seed is also completely doable.

The best medium for this plant is a mixture of milled coconut, perlite and peat moss. Moisten the potting mix before putting it in the container, then place the seeds in the mix and cover the container with plastic wrap. The plastic wrap is there in order to maintain the level of humidity required by the seeds to germinate.

Place the container at least 10 inches below a grow light for around 12 to 14 hours a day.

Once the seedlings are two inches wide, you can transfer each one to its own individual pot.

5. Peace lily

Another great choice of flowering plant for your indoor garden is the peace lily. The white flowers produced by this plant are one of its most appealing traits. While it is perfectly possible to grow this plant from any stage of its life, growing it from seed and eventually seeing the flowers just might feel a little more fulfilling.

When preparing the soil to plant the seeds, make sure you are not using too little or too much soil. Base the amount of soil on the size of the seeds, making sure there is enough to lightly cover them. Moisten the soil with a little water.

After a few weeks, the seeds will start to soften and turn yellow as they mature further.

Do not expect the plant to produce flowers in the same year; the peace lily can take several years before it starts to bloom.

6. Cactus

Cacti, and other succulents for that matter, are good plants to add to your indoor garden because of how low-maintenance they are.

You can always use a piece of cactus cut from a mature plant to grow a new cactus, but you can also grow a cactus from a seed.

There are close to 2,000 species of cactus, so it is entirely up to you what kind you want to grow in your garden. Cacti come in all shapes and sizes that can be mixed and matched with your existing plants.

Choose the cactus you want to grow and plant the seeds in starter soil with a little compost. The compost should preferably have some moisture and grit in it. Push the seeds a little way into the soil and compost mixture. You can also mix in some perlite or vermiculite before placing plastic wrap over the container and placing it in a warm room.

After a couple of weeks, the seedlings should start appearing and you can then remove the plastic film. If the potting mix looks dry, add just a little water to moisten it again.

When the seedlings start turning into cacti, you can plant each one in its own pot.

7. Lithops

The Lithops succulent, also called the living stone, is one of the more unique-looking succulents you can add to your indoor garden. Mature lithops plants look like bunches of rocks, and they come in an assortment of colors and shapes.

Prepare the potting mix for your lithops by adding one part perlite to one part regular potting soil. Moisten the potting mix and place it in a pot, then place the seeds on top of the potting mix and cover them with a layer or fine sand about an eighth of an inch thick.

Make sure the soil is never fully dry while waiting for the seeds to germinate. Place some plastic wrap over the container to maintain humidity.

The temperature where the pot is kept should be between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The germination of the lithops seeds can take several weeks to a few months. Only remove the plastic wrap when the seedlings appear. Wait until a year after you planted the seeds before transferring the seedlings into individual pots.

8. Cat grass

One of the easiest plants to grow in an indoor garden, which also has added benefits for your pets, is cat grass.

Cat grass is native to Europe, Asia and Africa, and gets its name because cats love to nibble on it. It can lift their mood and can also make them feel better if they have an upset stomach.

Poke drainage holes at the bottom of a shallow container, and fill the container about three-quarters with potting soil. Moisten the soil and sprinkle the seeds onto it. Place the container in a spot where it gets lots of bright, indirect light and where the temperature is around 50 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Place plastic wrap over the container.

You will notice new growth as soon as a few days after planting the seeds. Remove the plastic wrap and transfer the container to an even sunnier spot. Before long, the cat grass will have grown several inches and you can now offer it to your cat to eat or play with.

9. Cauliflower

Cauliflower can be grown from seed and, because it takes the vegetable a long time to mature, you can start the growing process in your indoor garden before transferring it to your outdoor vegetable garden.

Plant the seeds in your indoor garden at least a month before your spring planting date. When the seeds germinate and turn into seedlings, they will be just in time to be transferred to your outdoor garden.

There are different varieties of cauliflower, so you can choose different colors to make your garden both pretty and multifunctional.

10. Brussels sprouts

As with cauliflowers, Brussels sprouts also take their sweet time between germination and mature vegetables. Start the planting process a month before you plan to transfer them to your outdoor garden with all your other vegetables.

If you live in an area where there are cold winters and you happen to plant your Brussels sprouts close to winter, make sure you protect your crop from the cold.

11. Tomatoes

A popular plant to grow in your indoor garden is the tomato. Not only are these easy to grow; they are important ingredients for a multitude of dishes. There are different kinds of tomatoes, so choose the variety that you enjoy cooking and eating so that your gardening efforts will not be in vain.
Sow the tomato seeds one-and-a-half months to two months before the estimated last frost.

Only plant the seedlings in your outdoor garden when there is no frost left on the ground outside.

12. Watermelon

Make sure you do not damage or disturb the seedlings’ roots when you transplant them, as this could affect the plants’ growth over the long term.

Remember that there are many different kinds of watermelon, so you can get creative with the types you would like to include in your indoor garden.

13. Basil

Growing herbs indoors is a great way to maximize both the space in your garden as well as the effort you put into planting these seeds.

Basil is a very versatile herb that can be incorporated in a lot of different dishes, so it is almost a no-brainer to grow your own basil plant.

There are different types of basil; do not be afraid to experiment with other varieties aside from the typical green basil.

Basil does not do well in the cold, so it is better to let the plant germinate indoors. Plant the seeds at least a month before you plan to transfer them to the outdoor garden.

Conclusion

If you live in a small house, or if you have an outdoor garden but still wish to grow a few plants indoors, one of your options is to start from seed and reap the bounties after a few months.

There are plenty of plants that can be grown from seed, but there are only a handful that will ensure success for inexperienced gardeners. These include some decorative plants, flowers and even vegetables. 

With the proper research and sufficient motivation to grow your own plants, there is nothing  that can stop you from becoming the kind of green thumb you have always wanted to be. So, go and buy those seeds from the store and get started on your indoor garden tomorrow!

For people who have limited space in their living areas but still want to be able to grow numerous plants, their best choice will be smaller plants that do not need drainage in order to survive and thrive.

These types of plants are usually low-maintenance and require the barest minimum of care to grow, yet they will still be able to add just the right amount of life and brightness to your home.

In this article, we will discuss nine plants that you can keep in pots or baskets without drainage holes and are also compact enough to place on tables or hang from your ceiling. So, if you are looking for suggestions for this kind of plant, just keep reading.

9 Small Plants That Do Not Need Drainage

1. Snake plant

The snake plant is often considered the most indestructible houseplant because of its ability to withstand both drought and overwatering. This plant is extremely low-maintenance and a great choice as a gift for people who are just starting to get into plants as a hobby, because it requires very little care.

Snake plants are also small enough to keep indoors and are usually displayed in a pot on the floor. It has dark green leaves with white stripes, growing vertically out of the ground, making the plant look very much like its reptilian namesake.

Simply place this plant’s pot in a spot where it can get ample light, and water it once a month during the warmer months and once every two months during the colder months. To avoid overwatering, only water the plant if the top two inches of soil in the pot are dry to the touch.

2. Spider plant

The spider plant is another low-maintenance plant that does not need drainage to thrive. These plants are typically placed in baskets and hung from the ceiling, so that their dangling leaves can spill over the edges of the basket.

They can be kept indoors as long as they can get bright, indirect light, so that their soil can dry out quickly despite the container not having drainage holes at the bottom.

Like snake plants, spider plants can also tolerate a certain degree of drought and a little excess water from time to time.

3. Pothos

Pothos plants have gained a lot of popularity recently, thanks to their aesthetically-pleasing leaves that come in a variety of combinations of green and cream colors. They make great hanging plants because their vines droop beautifully over the sides of the pot.

Pothos are also known for their air-purifying qualities which make them the perfect plant to keep indoors. They are also very easy to grow and care for. You can keep this plant in low light conditions and you will only need to water it when the soil has dried out.

You can allow the plant to grow longer up a pole or any other structure, but if you want to keep it small, you can also prune off the trailing vines and propagate them.

4. Aloe vera

Succulents are a great choice if you want small plants that do well in pots without drainage. These plants are native to very arid regions; they like their soil to dry out completely between waterings and they like more sun than most other plants.

Aloe vera plants are small enough to keep in a pretty pot on a table top. They also have plenty of medicinal attributes that make their presence in your home an advantage. For example you can break off a leaf and rub it on a minor burn to soothe it.

The aloe’s fleshy leaves store plenty of water in case of drought, so you only need to water this plant very rarely. This makes it a great choice for busy people who do not have a lot of time for plants but still love the presence of some greenery in their home.

Just remember not to overwater the aloe vera; only water it when the top two inches of soil are dry. An overwatered aloe vera can develop root rot and could die.

5. Lucky bamboo

Lucky bamboo is a popular houseplant because of its signature look. Its stalks can also be manipulated to create whatever shape you want, and it can be grown both in water and in soil. As with most small plants that do not need drainage, the lucky bamboo only needs to be watered when the top two inches of soil in its pot are dry to the touch.

Lucky bamboo prefers indirect light, and typically does not need that much care or attention to thrive.

Plant your lucky bamboo in a pot or container that does not have drainage holes, water it only when necessary, and you should not have to worry about overwatering it.

6. Oleander

The oleander plant can get quite big if planted in the ground outside, but it can actually be a small indoor plant if you keep it in a pot. This plant can endure being in standing water for short periods of time, which is why it makes a good choice when you are looking for a plant that does not need drainage. 

It is native to south Asia and produces very colorful flowers, making it a great floor plant.

This plant grows quite well even without any drainage, as long as you water it only when the soil is dry to the touch. Once a week should be enough. Make sure you do not water it more often than you need to, to avoid overwatering and possible root rot.

7. Chinese evergreen

The chinese evergreen can grow fairly large in the ground, but a pot will restrict the plant’s growth, making it a good choice of houseplant. It’s leaves are green with brown and white edges.

This plant does not need drainage because it uses up the water in the soil quite quickly. Simply water the plant when the top two inches of soil feel dry to the touch. Try not to water it more than it needs, because this can lead to overwatering and possible root rot.

If you accidentally give the plant more water than you meant to, you can always just tip the pot to one side to get rid of the excess water.

8. Echeveria

Another popular, pint-sized succulent is the echeveria. Plenty of people have echeverias in tiny pots on their office desks, because they are low-maintenance and bring a pop of color and life to a drab workplace or living space.

You can plant your echeveria in a pot with no drainage holes, making sure that you only water it when the soil is completely dry. Remember that this plant is native to dry, arid desert conditions and its fleshy leaves store plenty of water for times of drought, so it does not need to be watered very often.

9. Coleus

The coleus plant is an evergreen that comes in a variety of colors and color combinations. It is a relatively low-maintenance plant that requires very little attention while providing your living space with a much-needed pop of color.

Coleus plants are semi-succulents, meaning their stems are able to store a significant amount of water, so you do not need to water them that often.

Place your plant in a spot where it can get lots of bright, indirect light so that the soil in the pot can dry out quickly despite the pot not having any drainage holes.

Remember only to water the plant when the top two inches of soil in the pot are dry to the touch. This practice is an important factor in avoiding overwatering.

Conclusion

For people who do not have a lot of space for plants in their homes, and who are too busy to devote much time to said plants, the perfect plant is one that is small enough to tuck into a corner or to place on top of a table, and that does not necessarily need drainage.

There is an abundance of choices when it comes to these types of plants. The most important thing to remember is not to overwater the plant; in other words, not to give it water when you do not need to. As long as you let the soil in the pot dry out between waterings, these plants will have no issue thriving in pots without drainage.

The snake plant is one of the most popular houseplants, not only because of its signature look, but because it is often touted as indestructible: it can survive any weather extremes and even the most novice of plant owners can grow it.

One question that beginner snake plant owners ask is whether or not these plants actually need drainage holes in the bottom of their pots.

The answer to this question is: not necessarily. You can definitely grow a snake plant in a pot or container that does not have drainage holes, but you need to be diligent about how you water it.

In this article, we will discuss more about why a snake plant can be grown in a pot with no drainage holes, and whether or not this is a good choice. So, if you are thinking about getting a snake plant and want to know more about what type of pot is best for it, then keep reading.

Are drainage holes really important for plants?

Yes, for most plants that are kept in pots or containers, it is important to have drainage holes at the bottom of the container. The holes are there to reduce the chances of the plant becoming overwatered, by allowing any excess water to flow out of the holes rather than standing inside the pot for long periods of time.

Without drainage holes, the soil becomes waterlogged and will be unable to dry out sufficiently for the plant’s requirements. Remember that a plant’s roots need to have access to oxygen in order to survive, and if the soil is perpetually soggy, no oxygen will be able to reach the roots.

Another reason that water should be allowed to flow easily through the soil and out the drainage holes is to help flush out any build-up of chemicals or excess nutrients that might burn the roots.

What problems can arise if my plant’s pot does not have drainage holes?

• Lack of oxygen for the roots

Aside from absorbing carbon dioxide from the air to provide oxygen for us to breathe, plants actually also absorb oxygen through their leaves and roots. Plants need oxygen to survive, just like we do, so if their roots are constantly waterlogged they are at risk of suffocation and drowning.

You will know your plant is not getting enough oxygen if it is not growing as fast as normal and its leaves are yellowing.

A lack of oxygen is also a precursor to root rot, so if you suspect oxygen deprivation, it is quite possible that your plant has root rot, too.

• Root rot

As mentioned above, oxygen deprivation and root rot typically go hand in hand. When a plant is overwatered, its roots stand in soggy soil for long periods and are unlikely ever to dry out enough to get access to oxygen. The roots will drown in the wet soil and die. Once dead, they will become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens, such as fungi of the Rhizoctonia, Fusarium, Phytophthora and Pythium families. Fungi love dank and dark conditions, where they can thrive and attack the compromised roots of plants. The fungi will cause the rot in the dead roots to spread upwards towards the rest of the plant, until eventually the entire plant dies.

You will know your plant has root rot if its leaves are drooping, curling and turning yellow. Unfortunately, these signs are not specific to root rot, which is why it is quite difficult to catch root rot in its early stages. The condition is usually discovered accidentally while the plant is being repotted. For this reason, it is important to inspect your plant’s roots closely whenever you repot it, to make sure you can address the problem as early as possible.

• The plant may get root burn

Another problem that may occur in a pot without drainage holes is the accumulation of chemicals in the soil. These chemicals will have nowhere to go due to the absence of adequate drainage.

This is especially common in plants that are grown in pots with no drainage holes and are frequently fertilized and watered with tap water. In the beginning, tap water and fertilizer may only bring in trace amounts of nutrients and chemicals, but over time these substances will build up around your plant’s roots and cause root burn. Symptoms of this condition include stunted growth and browning of the leaves.

• The plant’s roots will become weak

This problem is connected to those mentioned above, because when a snake plant’s roots are surrounded by soggy soil, they will not thrive and will never be healthy. Weak and unhealthy plants will not be able to effectively absorb water and nutrients. This will become a chronic problem that will eventually affect the entire plant and could lead to its demise.

A snake plant with a weak root system will have droopy leaves, which will start to drop off one by one.

What can I do about a snake plant with poor drainage?

If your snake plant appears to have one or more of the problems discussed above, you will need to act quickly to save it.

In order to correct problems related to poor drainage, you need to remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as you can, as gently as possible. Inspect the roots to check for any brown or black sections. If you find any brown or black roots, cut them off using a sterilized pair of scissors, as these are rotten or dying.

Wash off any chemical build-up on the roots with water, and leave the plant out to air dry the roots before repotting it.

When the roots are dry, place the plant in a pot with a well-draining potting mix. You can replace a third of the potting soil with perlite or vermiculite to help improve the drainage.

If you feel that the soggy soil was caused by the absence of drainage holes, you may be better off using a pot that has holes to make things easier going forward.

If the new soil is still damp, you do not need to water it immediately after replanting. Wait until the top two inches of soil have dried out completely before watering the plant again.

How can I successfully grow a snake plant in a pot without drainage holes?

Add pebbles or gravel to the bottom of the pot

Pebbles and gravel can act as a buffer or platform for the plant, so that the excess water can drain into the bottom of the pot without making the soil soggy.

The layer at the bottom of the pot should be around two inches deep so that the plants do not touch the bottom of the pot.

You may be tempted to use broken pieces of your old pots to place at the bottom, in lieu of pebbles or gravel, but refrain from using those because there could be some big pieces that might catch water and add to the waterlogging problem.

Mix charcoal into the plant’s potting mix

Charcoal is very effective at absorbing excess moisture, so when added to the potting mix, it will hold onto excess water in the soil.

Use activated charcoal by layering it with the potting soil. Place a layer of charcoal first, then a layer of potting soil, then charcoal again, and so on.

Vermiculite and perlite

Another option is to mix volcanic rock like vermiculite or perlite into the potting mix. Like charcoal, these rocks are also effective absorbers of water.

You do not need to worry about these rocks obstructing the flow of oxygen to the roots; they are quite porous and air will have no problem passing through them.

Replace a third of the potting mix with either rock, and repot the snake plant like normal.

Use an appropriately-sized pot

Do not use a pot that is too large for your plant, because a large pot will hold more excess water which will take longer to evaporate.

Make sure the plant is in a spot where it gets lots of light and a temperature of 60 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Repotting your snake plant once a year is probably best if it is in a pot without drainage holes, because you can then check the condition of the roots every year in order to avoid root rot and other problems.

The proper way to water a snake plant in a pot without drainage holes

It is definitely trickier to water a snake plant that is grown in a pot without drainage holes, but you will find it easier over time.

Snake plants are very drought-tolerant, so you will not actually need to water your plant that often anyway.

In terms of frequency, it is usually enough to water the plant once a month in the warmer months, while once every two months is best for the colder months.

Before you water your plant, touch the top two inches of soil. If the soil is dry to the touch, you can water the plant, but if it is still slightly damp, wait one or two more days before checking it again.

You can use a spray bottle to water the soil, so that you do not accidentally pour in too much water that you cannot remove.

If you do accidentally pour too much water into the pot, try tipping the plant to one side to get rid of the excess water before the soil completely absorbs it all.

Conclusion

Snake plants can live with or without drainage holes in their pots. It really is more down to the preference of the plant owner whether or not they want to use a pot without drainage holes.

If you do want to use a pot without drainage holes, you just need to be vigilant at spotting the signs of overwatering. You do not want the plant’s roots to be deprived of oxygen or for the plant to get root rot. Add a layer of pebbles or gravel to the bottom of the pot, place alternating layers of charcoal with the potting mix, or add vermiculite or perlite to the soil. These added ingredients can either separate the excess water away from the roots, or they can literally soak up the excess water from the soggy soil so that the roots can dry out faster between waterings.

Control the amount and frequency of watering, check that the top two inches of soil are dry before giving the plant any more water, use a spray bottle to water the plant in small, controllable amounts, and dump out any excess water if you accidentally pour too much in.

Place the plant in a spot where it can get lots of bright, indirect light that can help the soil dry out quickly between waterings, and make sure that the temperature around the plant is between 60 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit to help the soil dry out as well.

Image: istockphoto.com /  Natalia SERDYUK

Philodendron xanadu and Philodendron selloum are both tropical plants with large, green leaves that make for great decorative houseplants. Native to South America, they are both relatively low maintenance while bringing plenty of life and vigor into any space in your home or office.

At first, you may think these two plants are the same, but on closer inspection they actually have several differences.

The most obvious differences between the two are in their appearance. The leaves of the Philodendron xanadu are flat, rather than wavy, and because of this the plant may take up more space due to its width.

Philodendron selloum leaves, on the other hand, are shaped more like spears and tend to grow upwards, much like a tree. Its leaves are also wavier and less flat.

In this article, we will discuss more about the differences between these two plants, so if you are looking to learn more about either or both of them, just keep reading.

Philodendron xanadu

This plant originated from Brazil as the Winterbourn philodendron. The name ‘xanadu’ was bestowed upon it in Australia in 1988, when it was gaining popularity in that country.

Also known as Thaumatophyllum xanadu, it is a perennial that can be grown both indoors and outdoors. Its leaves grow out to the sides and it can measure up to seven feet wide when grown outdoors. Grown indoors, however, it will grow significantly smaller.

This plant is widespread in Australia, South Africa and the warmer states of the United States, such as Florida.

Philodendron selloum

The Philodendron selloum is a popular houseplant that can now be found in most parts of the United States. It is often called the tree philodendron because of how the leaves grow upwards, giving the plant a look quite similar to that of a tree.

This plant is also native to South America and has been observed to grow up to 15 feet tall in the wild.

Philodendron xanadu vs Philodendron selloum

Plant structure

The Philodendron xanadu is the smaller plant of the two. It grows in a bunched-up manner and will only reach a height of five feet, on average. Because it grows sideways, it can grow to be seven feet wide, but if it grows too big or wide for you, you can always just prune it. Make sure you use clippers and wear gloves when doing so.

The Philodendron selloum is much bigger than the xanadu, especially if it gets its ideal amounts of sunlight, water and fertilizer. It can grow up to 12 feet high and 15 feet in width. This is why it is often called the tree philodendron; it can literally grow as tall as a tree. If you are worried that your indoor Philodendron xanadu will get too big for your living room, do not fret as the plant’s growth will not be as fast as those grown outdoors.

Leaves

Both plants have lobed leaves that are a deep green in color. Due to the lobing and the ends of the leaves stretching out, they resemble droopy fingers.

The Philodendron xanadu’s symmetrical leaves are the glossier of the two, and can grow to 16 inches long and 12 inches wide. The leaves are not arranged in a particular order on the plant; they grow from seemingly random spots on the stem.

The Philodendron selloum’s leaves can grow to a whopping five feet in length, and may be the biggest leaves in the whole Philodendron family. They are connected to the trunk by smooth stems, and are arranged in a spiral pattern along the plant’s trunk.

Soil

The Philodendron xanadu likes its potting mix to be well-draining. A great combination would be regular potting mix with perlite, peat and compost.

The Philodendron selloum, on the other hand, likes its potting mix to be alkaline rich, and retain moisture well. This does not mean that the plant’s soil should be sopping wet at all times; it simply means that the soil should remain damp for a few days to continuously provide the plant with moisture. Perpetually wet soil will lead to overwatering, and possibly even to root rot and other diseases.

What are the similarities between Philodendron xanadu and Philodendron selloum?

Growth pattern

Both of these plants should be rotated in place every couple of weeks to make sure that each side of the plant gets its time in the sunlight. This is especially true for plants that are kept indoors. 

If you keep your plant in a spot where it does not get enough light, it will start to become leggy, meaning it will start to grow in the direction of the light, rather than growing symmetrically. This is a plant’s way of surviving. The change in the plant’s symmetry is not harmful in any way, but it does affect the overall aesthetic of the plant. You might also notice aerial roots starting to grow from the plant as a means of escaping the pot and anchoring itself on anything that is closer to the light.

Avoid legginess by rotating the plant and making sure that it is close enough to a generous source of light.

If there is little to no sunlight coming in through the windows during the fall or winter, you might have to invest in some grow lights to help your plants out.

Bloom

Neither plant produces any flowers when kept predominantly indoors; they only produce luscious green leaves.

If you have an older Philodendron, you might have seen a ‘flower’ on the plant once, but that is actually what botanists call a spathe. This spathe is red in color and is not a flower but a protective covering over the spadix.

The spadix opens for two days, and this is when insects such as beetles or bees pollinate it. However, because a spadix appears very rarely and only opens for two days, it may be difficult for the plant to actually reproduce this way.

Light requirements

These plants will not do well under bright, direct light. You need to replicate the light that these plants get in their natural habitat, which is the rainforest. Plants on the rainforest floor or those growing on the trunks of trees only get the stippled sunlight that makes its way through the forest’s tree canopy.

Direct sunlight can easily burn the leaves on these plants because of their large surface area. If you plan to keep your plant outdoors, opt to place it under a large tree or under any shade that will protect it from the harsh daylight. You will know your plant is getting too much light if the leaves are looking lighter than normal, since the sunlight has bleached them.

Remember that, even if the plant is kept in a shady spot, it will still grow towards the light and could become leggy, so do not forget to rotate the pot every couple of weeks.

Do not be afraid to move your plants around and use trial and error to ascertain which spot in your home is best for them.

Humidity and temperature

Because both these plants are native to South America, they enjoy a temperature of 65 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit, as well as higher-than-normal humidity of over 50%.

If you live in a place where the air is dry most of the time, you might need to buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity around the plant. If the humidity is a little low only during the summer, you can help the plant by misting it once in a while or by placing a water pebble tray underneath its pot. The water in the pebble tray will evaporate and add moisture to the soil in the pot as well as to the foliage.

Refrain from placing the plant in spots such as under an air conditioner or near a heater, as the cold and warm air can quickly dry it out. Also avoid placing it in spots where cold and warm drafts pass through, for the same reason.

Watering requirements

Philodendron plants are low maintenance and all you really need to do is simulate the living conditions of their natural habitats.

Make sure you do not overwater either plant and that their pots have sufficient drainage holes to allow excess water to flow out, rather than stagnating in the soil around their roots. Overwatering can lead to root rot, which is when the roots drown in soggy soil and start to rot. The rot will make its way into the rest of the plant until the entire plant is affected and dies.

The best way to know when to water your plant is by touching the top two inches of soil. If the soil is dry to the touch, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again. Usually, the plant will need watering once a week in warmer months and once every two weeks during the colder months.

Fertilizer requirements

Any houseplant fertilizer is fine to use on either plant. Make sure you only fertilize them in the spring and summer, when they are actively growing and in need of nutrients. Do not feed the plants during the fall or winter, because they are going into dormancy and will not consume all the nutrients in the fertilizer, which could lead to soil toxicity.

A good indication that either plant is in need of fertilization is when the leaves become a much lighter shade of green than normal.

Diseases and pests

Both the Philodendron xanadu and selloum are susceptible to certain fungal diseases, as well as blight caused by bacteria, which presents as dark blotches on the leaves.

Both plants are also host to the same pests, such as mealybugs, aphids and spider mites. You can use a neem oil spray to get rid of these pests. Make your own spray by mixing one gallon of warm water with two tablespoons of mild dish soap and two tablespoons of neem oil. Place the solution in a garden sprayer and spray the tops and undersides of the plant’s leaves until they are drenched. Do this during the late afternoon, once a week, for as long as needed.

Are these plants toxic?

Yes, both the Philodendron xanadu and selloum are toxic to humans and animals. When ingested, it can cause difficulty breathing, and if the plant’s sap gets onto your skin, it can lead to irritation. Make sure you are wearing protective gloves when pruning, trimming or repotting these plants. Wash the gloves as well as any tools you used so that the sap is removed.

Keep the plant out of reach, especially if you have pets or small children, so that they cannot accidentally eat or touch the plant.

Conclusion

The Philodendron xanadu and Philodendron selloum are large houseplants that have become popular because of their large, beautiful leaves. Both are low maintenance and quite easy to find.

The most obvious differences between the two plants are in their appearance. The xanadu is the smaller of the two; it does not grow tall, but instead grows outwards, thus occupying a lot of space. The selloum’s leaves grow upwards like a tree, and it can reach up to 15 feet tall.

The leaves on the xanadu are flatter and not as wavy, while the selloum’s leaves are spear-shaped and wavier. Xanadus like well-draining potting mix, while selloums like potting mix that is alkaline rich.

In terms of care, these two plants are virtually the same. They have the same temperature, humidity, sunlight, water and fertilization requirements.

Remember that both plants are toxic to humans and pets, so keep them out of reach of both.

They are intriguing and beautiful houseplants, but just make sure you are careful when handling them because their sap can be an irritant to the skin.

Image: istockphoto.com / Bilal photos

Spider plants do not necessarily need drainage. Planting a spider plant in a pot or container without drainage holes can certainly work, but so can using a container that does have drainage holes.

The difference is that when you use a pot without drainage, it is more difficult for the soil in the pot to dry out completely between waterings, which is necessary for the plant’s roots to have access to oxygen. Using a pot with drainage holes will significantly reduce the chances of overwatering the plant, because the holes allow excess water to flow out through the holes at the bottom of the pot. However, some people understandably prefer a pot without drainage holes, especially if the plant is indoors.

It is also possible to enhance the soil’s drainage in the pot using other materials, without necessarily needing holes.

In this article, we will discuss the reasons that drainage is important for your spider plant, as well as how to properly water a spider plant in a pot or container without drainage holes. So, if you are keen to learn more about this topic, then keep reading.

Can a spider plant grow in a pot with no drainage holes?

Yes, it is definitely possible for a spider plant to grow, and even thrive, in a pot or container that does not have drainage holes. Spider plants are more tolerant of water standing in their soil than most plants, so if you have your heart set on using a certain pot that does not have holes at the bottom, the spider plant is a great choice.

You just need to be aware of the plant’s water needs. You cannot just water it any time you like, because if you do not allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings, this can lead to overwatering, which can then lead to a host of other problems that might ultimately kill your plant.

What are some problems that can arise if a spider plant is overwatered?

Chemical buildup

One of the problems that can occur if you plant your spider plant in a pot without drainage holes is a buildup of chemicals, nutrients and minerals in the soil around the plant’s roots.

These substances come from the tap water that you give the plant and from the fertilizer you use. They will keep accumulating around the plant over time, but this will happen faster if they cannot be flushed out through drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

These chemicals, minerals and nutrients can cause root burn and may be detrimental to the growth of the plant.

If you still want to use a pot that has no drainage holes, you can avoid this kind of buildup by repotting the plant periodically and replacing the soil in the pot with fresh soil.

Overwatering and root rot

The biggest potential problem when using a pot with no drainage holes is overwatering and subsequent root rot.

As we mentioned above, if using a pot without drainage holes, you should let the soil in the pot dry out completely before watering the plant again. If you are unable to do this, the soil around the plant’s roots will be constantly wet, which constitutes overwatering.

When a spider plant is overwatered, the plant’s roots will be standing constantly in soil that is waterlogged and soggy. Soggy soil around the roots means that the plant will not be able to absorb oxygen. Plants need to be able to absorb oxygen in the same way they need to absorb carbon dioxide, in order to survive. Thus, if the plant cannot get access to oxygen, it will essentially drown in the waterlogged soil. 

The dead roots will then become vulnerable to opportunistic pathogens such as fungi, and will develop root rot. The root rot will spread quickly up towards the rest of the plant until the entire plant is affected and eventually dies.

Unfortunately, root rot is something that is difficult to catch in its early stages. The moment you spot symptoms such as stunted growth or drooping and yellowing leaves, it usually means the rot has taken hold of most of the plant and the chances of saving it are slim to none.

In most cases where a plant is saved from root rot, it is usually due to the owner spotting the early signs while repotting the plant.

What can I do if my spider plant’s pot does not have holes?

Make holes in the pot yourself

If the pot you are already using does not have holes, but you like it so much that you still wish to use it, you can always add holes at the bottom of the pot. Just make sure that the material the pot is made from will not break or split if you make holes in it.

Use a secret pot hidden inside the current pot 

If there is a particular pot that you really want to use, but you also want the plant’s soil to be able to drain properly, you can always plant your spider plant in a smaller pot that does have drainage holes, and place this inside the prettier pot that does not have holes. The outer pot can then function as a decorative pot, rather than a functional one.

Add pebbles, gravel or charcoal to the soil

Add a layer of pebbles or charcoal at the very bottom of the pot before adding the potting soil on top of it. This layer at the bottom will act as a catcher of excess water from the soil, while also keeping the plant’s roots away from any excess water. This way, the soil itself will not be constantly waterlogged and will be able to dry out completely before the next watering.

You can also mix charcoal into the potting soil to help absorb excess moisture. Be sure to use activated charcoal and not the kind used for barbecues. When incorporating the charcoal, first place a layer at the bottom of the pot, then add a layer of potting soil on top of that, then add another layer of charcoal, and so on, until the pot is filled. Charcoal is very effective at absorbing excess moisture from the soil, thus allowing the soil to dry out quickly between waterings and reducing the risk of overwatering.

What other plants can be grown in pots with no drainage holes?

If you are still a beginner and have not quite mastered the balance of correctly watering your plants, your best bet is to use pots or containers that do have drainage holes. However, if you prefer the look of containers that do not have drainage holes, you might be better off choosing plants that can thrive in these types of containers.

Here are some examples of plants that do well in pots without drainage holes:

• Chinese evergreen

These plants are quite resilient when it comes to sitting in soil that is slightly overwatered. Yes, they can still be affected by too much water, but as long as the water is not constantly spilling over the top of the soil, they should be fine. Just remember always to check the soil in the plant’s pot before watering it again; if the soil is still damp, wait a few more days before checking it again.

• Pothos

Pothos make great hanging plants, especially indoors. Their vining leaves spill from the edges of a hanging basket, giving a fresher look and feel to any living space.

As long as your pothos’ basket is hung in a spot where it can get lots of bright, indirect light, the soil in the pot should be able to dry out fast enough between waterings that you will not have to deal with overwatering and possible root rot.

• Snake plant

The snake plant is often described as unkillable or indestructible, because apparently it takes a lot to kill it. It is both drought-resistant and tolerant of  the occasional overwatering.

These plants do well in pots with no drainage holes because they so seldom need water.

In the warmer months, they only need to be watered once a month, and even less frequently during the colder months.

This plant requires very little actual care; you can leave it in your beautiful pot without drainage holes for weeks at a time and it should be perfectly fine.

Conclusion

Spider plants do not necessarily need drainage and can be planted in pots without drainage holes. As long as you do not overwater your plant and allow the soil to dry out completely in between waterings, it can thrive even if its container has no drainage holes at the bottom.

If you want to use a pot with no drainage holes but still reduce the risk of overwatering, you can either place pebbles, gravel or charcoal along with the soil in the pot to help keep the soil dry, or you can use a smaller pot with drainage holes and place that inside the pot without drainage holes.

Image: istockphoto.com /  Pratchaya

Monstera esqueleto and Monstera adansonii are two of the most popular varieties of the Monstera genus. These two plants share a lot of similarities, especially at first glance, which is why they often get mistaken for each other. If you take a closer look at the two, however, you will realize that they are actually quite different. Their leaves have different perforations, textures and colors.

In this article, we will discuss more about the differences of these two plants, as well as some of their similarities. So, if you wish to learn more about either or both plants, just keep reading.

Monstera esqueleto vs Monstera adansonii

Leaves

One of the most obvious differences between these plants is the size of their leaves. The esqueleto has bigger leaves than the adansonii. They can measure up to 20 inches long and 12 inches wide, while the adansonii’s leaves are around 15 inches long and 9 inches wide.

Like other Monstera varieties, the allure of these plants is largely due to the placement of the perforations, or holes, in the leaves. The perforations add a certain mystique and give the leaves a delicate look despite their size. These perforations are not just present for an aesthetic purpose, though. Some scientists theorize that they are an evolutionary change developed by the plants over time to adapt to the rain and strong winds they face on a daily basis in their natural habitat, the rainforest. These holes do not appear immediately when the leaves are young; they become more and more prominent the older the leaves and the plant become.

Both these varieties have perforations, but the esqueleto’s are bigger and more abundant. The holes run from the center of the leaf to the tip.

The adansonii has smaller, thinner holes, usually in the shape of an ellipse or a thin circle. The holes are often narrow and unbroken.

Aside from the leaf size and the difference in the perforations, the color of the two plants’ leaves can also help you tell them apart. The esqueleto is the lighter shade of green between the two, and even has a yellowish tinge. Its leaves are thicker with a glossy finish, and will feel waxy and leathery to the touch.

The adansonii’s leaves are a deeper, richer shade of green and also have a waxy texture when touched.

Growing patterns

Just like other Monsteras, these plants are climbers and grow as a vine, meaning they grow as a continuous stem, sprouting aerial roots in the process and finding structures nearby to which to anchor themselves. Because they do not have to form thick stems or stalks, they can use most of their nutrients and resources on extending the vine, which is why they grow quite quickly.

Of the two plants, the adansonii is the more aggressive viner, so it is the better choice for those looking for a variety they can display as a drooping vine. It grows well and looks beautiful in hanging baskets and pots, or over a trellis.

If either plant seems to be growing a little slower than normal, you might need to repot it. Check the roots to see if they have become crowded in the pot, because this is a common cause of stunted and slowed growth. One of the first signs that your plant needs repotting is if you can see roots growing out of the drainage holes of the pot. That means that new roots literally no longer have any space in the pot.

Price difference

Of the two varieties, the esqueleto is the more expensive, selling for as much as 200 dollars, although the price is dependent on the size and the age of the plant. This is because the esqueleto is rarer than the adansonii.

If you are shopping for Monstera plants online and you are unsure whether the plant you see in the picture is an adansonii or an esqueleto, base your judgement on the price of the plant. Adansoniis are less expensive and do not normally sell for more than a hundred dollars.

Monstera esqueleto and Monstera adansonii: Similarities

Stem

Both Monstera esqueleto and Monstera adansonii have the same stem structure. The entire plant grows in a single long stem, or vine, which sprouts aerial roots that keep finding a structure to anchor onto.

Both plants’ stems are thick and green, and they do not produce stolons. If either of your plants grows a stolon, you might be growing a completely different variety of Monstera.

Nodes will grow along the vine, and this is where new roots will grow out from if you propagate the plant.

Petiole

The petiole is the structure that holds the leaf onto the vine, and looks like a small stem. On Monstera plants, the petioles are thin and slender.

The petioles on both these varieties are quite similar and have a smooth texture.

Roots

As mentioned above, both plants have aerial roots growing along the vine, and these roots are what will cling to structures as the plant seeks to anchor itself. Having aerial roots is one of the reasons Monstera plants are so resilient, because they can adapt to growing either on the ground or on the sides of trees and other plants.

Light requirements

Both plants are native to the rainforests of Central and South America, so the best kind of light to give them is to simulate the light they might get in their natural habitat. They grow on the ground and up the trunks and stems of other plants, and the light that reaches them is the stippled sunlight that gets through the forest’s tree canopy.

If you are growing either plant in your home, it is best to place it in a spot where it can get lots of bright, indirect light. Do not place it directly under the sun because this may cause the leaves to scorch and burn.

An east-facing window in your home is ideal, because this way the plant is just exposed to sunlight for a few hours a day and will be in a shadier position for other hours. If the only window in your home is letting in too much light, you can place a sheer curtain over it to diffuse the intensity.

During the fall and winter months, when there is little to no sunlight, you may need to buy grow lights to help your plant.

Watering requirements

Watering a plant may seem easy enough, but there are actually a lot of considerations you need to take into account in order to do it properly. Water the plant enough that the soil never completely dries out, but make sure you do not water it so frequently that it drowns.

Overwatering is a definite possibility when growing either of these plants, and it can lead to root rot. Root rot is a condition that develops when the plant’s roots are constantly standing in wet soil. The roots will drown, and opportunistic pathogens will then attack the dead roots and exacerbate the spread of the rot to the rest of the plant. Eventually, if left unchecked, the entire plant will die.

The best way to avoid overwatering or underwatering your plants is to know exactly when to water them. You can do this by touching the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the soil is dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Adjust your watering habits according to the climate where you live, the current weather and the season. Reduce the frequency and the amount of water during the colder months, and increase the frequency during the warmer months.

Soil and pot requirements

Both plants prefer a potting mix that is airy and well-draining. This is so that, if you accidentally overwater the plant, the excess water can simply drain out of the soil.

The pot you use should also have drainage holes at the bottom and should be made of a porous material such as terracotta or clay. Refrain from using a pot made of plastic or steel.

Temperature and humidity

Keep these plants in an area where the temperature is between 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Remember that they are from the rainforest, so they do not do well in cold weather. If the temperature outdoors is starting to dip below 65 degrees, you should bring your plant indoors, where the temperature is more stable.

Because they are from the rainforest, these plants like a higher humidity than most other houseplants. If you live in a dry, arid place, you can help the plant out by placing it in the bathroom, which is one of the most humid rooms in a house. You can also mist the plant’s leaves every once in a while, or place a water pebble tray under the plant’s pot. When the water in the tray evaporates, it will moisten the soil in the pot as well as the plant’s foliage. If you have the budget, you can also buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in the room, so you do not have to worry about it.

Conclusion

The Monstera esqueleto and Monstera adansonii both belong to the same genus: Monstera. They are often mistaken for each other, but they actually have some very obvious differences when you look more closely. The esqueleto has bigger leaves and its perforations are more pronounced, while the adansonii has slightly smaller leaves with less pronounced perforations, and a deeper green color.

The esqueleto is the rarer variety of the two, which is why it can run you a few hundred bucks when you buy one.

Image: istockphoto.com / indah nurul wardani

The bird of paradise plant, or Strelitzia reginae, is an evergreen plant native to South Africa. It is also called the “banana tree” because of the close resemblance of its leaves to those of the banana plant.

One of the main reasons the bird of paradise is so popular among plant owners is its uniquely-shaped orange flowers that look like the actual bird of paradise, hence the plant’s name.

A broken bird of paradise stem is one of the most common problems encountered by plant owners. The plant’s stalk can break because of a nutrient deficiency, lack of water, incorrect handling or repotting of the plant, shock, rot, insufficient sunlight or strong winds, among other reasons.

In this article, we will discuss the different causes of a broken bird of paradise stalk and how to prevent this from happening. We will also discuss how to mend a broken bird of paradise stalk.

If you are currently experiencing this problem or you simply wish to learn more about broken bird of paradise stalks, just keep reading.

What are the causes of a broken bird of paradise stalk?

• Nutrient deficiency

One of the most common reasons your bird of paradise plant’s stalk might break is if it does not have enough nitrogen or potassium, both of which the plant needs to stay healthy.

A lack of essential nutrients leads to weakened stems, stunted growth and deterioration of the plant’s tissues.

In order to avoid nutrient deficiencies in your bird of paradise, apply a fertilizer every couple of months. A good choice of fertilizer is chicken manure, because it is organic and is a slow-release type of fertilizer.

Making sure the plant does not lack nutrients starts from the moment you plant your bird of paradise. Use a potting mix that is rich in nutrients so that the plant will have plenty to absorb as it grows.

• Insufficient sunlight

A lack of sunlight is not the direct cause of the plant’s stalk breaking. Rather, the stalk breaks because the plant tends to grow in the direction of the closest source of light when it is kept in low light conditions.

This is called etiolation, and it causes the stalks of the plant to lengthen more than normal. Because the stalk becomes so long, it becomes more vulnerable to breakage.

Avoid bird of paradise stalks breaking due to etiolation by making sure the plant gets plenty of sunlight. Ideally, it should be kept outdoors under direct sunlight, but if you live in an apartment where the only source of light is through a window, keep the plant right next to it. If there is little to no sunlight reaching the plant during the fall or winter, you can buy grow lights to help your plant out. These lights will provide the light your plant needs to survive, and will thus prevent etiolation.

• Not enough water

Plants need water to survive, and water also helps with the bird of paradise’s flexibility. A bird of paradise that does not get enough water will become dry, wilted and weak. The thin and weakened stalk will be very susceptible to breakage.

This does not mean you should overwater your plant, however. Overwatering can lead to a multitude of problems such as root rot and other diseases.

In order to avoid a broken stalk due to lack of water, make sure you are watering your plant sufficiently. The soil in the plant’s pot should be well-draining but able to hold onto some moisture. Check the plant’s soil regularly to make sure it never dries out completely.

• Fungal problems

Fungal diseases can also result in the plant’s stalk weakening and breaking. Fungi such as Pythium, Fusarium and Rhizoctonia can cause the plant’s stem to rot. They can also disrupt the transfer of nutrients throughout the plant, which will affect its overall health.

These fungal infections come about when the plant is overwatered and its roots and foliage are constantly exposed to moisture. The plant’s compromised stalk will weaken and will eventually break.

If you are able to catch the rot early, while it is still in the roots, you can cure it by cutting off the affected sections of roots and treating the remaining healthy roots with fungicide.

Avoid overwatering your plant and prune off all affected foliage before it spreads to the rest of the plant.

• Weather changes

If your bird of paradise is kept outdoors and a storm or strong winds pass through, no matter how sturdy and healthy the plant is, it will still be powerless against the elements.

If you live in a place where storms happen frequently, it is better to keep the plant on a porch or a patio so that it is protected on two sides.

If you live in a place where storms and strong winds only happen occasionally, you can just move the plant indoors when necessary.

• Improper handling and repotting of the plant

Because the bird of paradise can grow quite big, moving the plant to and fro can lead to the stems getting bent or the plant getting dropped, and this can cause the stalk to break.

Furthermore, because the plant is so unique looking, you or your family and friends may be tempted to keep touching it. If the plant is repeatedly touched, this can lead to structural damage.

When multiple bird of paradise plants are placed next to each other with little space in between, the congestion can also cause incidental damage to the plant.

When handling the plant, such as when you are moving or repotting it, be careful and ask for help if necessary, so that you can maneuver the plant with ease.

• Transplant shock

When your new bird of paradise plant has just been brought home from the store or the nursery, do not be surprised if a few stems break in the first couple of days, because the plant is still adjusting to its new home.

When the plant is grown in the nursery, it is living in ideal conditions. The moment you take it out, it is exposed to new temperatures, light and humidity. All these changes can overwhelm the plant and this can take quite a toll on its overall health.

A plant in this situation will be weaker than normal and this can lead to possible stalk breakage.

There is really not much you can do in this situation except to wait for the plant to adjust to its new surroundings and do your best to simulate the living conditions of its natural habitat. After a few days or weeks, the plant should be perfectly fine and you can continue caring for it the way you would a well-adjusted bird of paradise.

How to fix a broken bird of paradise stalk

The first method of fixing a broken bird of paradise stalk begins with an inspection of the extent of the damage. Prepare around six inches of tape and begin to wrap it around the broken part of the stalk in order to keep it straight. Make sure the tape is tightly wound on the stalk so that the plant heals faster. Keep the tape on the plant for up to a month; only remove it when the plant looks like it has recovered.

Another method to mend a broken bird of paradise stalk is to place a bamboo splint on either side of the broken stalk and secure the splints with tomato ties or pantyhose. Leave the splints on for about two weeks until you notice that the stalk has started to stand on its own again. Over time, the plant will be able to hold itself up without the splints.

These methods are not one hundred percent effective; sometimes the damage is too much and the plant might not be able to recover. In that case, you are probably better off starting from scratch with a new plant.

Conclusion

The bird of paradise is a beautiful, exotic plant known for its large leaves and uniquely shaped flowers.

One of the most common problems encountered by bird of paradise owners is a broken stalk.

The most common causes of a broken stalk in this plant are nutrient deficiency, lack of water, incorrect handling or repotting of the plant, shock, rot, insufficient sunlight and strong winds.

As long as you keep your plant healthy, keep it away from the elements and handle it properly, you will not need to worry about a broken bird of paradise stalk.

Image: istockphoto.com / Cavan Images

Philodendrons of all varieties have become some of the most popular houseplants in recent years, thanks to their beautiful foliage and how easy they are to grow and care for.

Because some Philodendron varieties look very similar to each other, most people have a difficult time differentiating them. Two of the varieties that are quite tricky to distinguish from one another are pedatum and ‘Florida’.

The Philodendron pedatum is actually a parent plant of the ‘Florida’, which is why they bear so many similarities. Both plants are climbers with lobed leaves, but the Philodendron ‘Florida’ is more compact and its leaves are paler and variegated.

In this article, we will discuss both the differences and the similarities between these two plants, so if you wish to learn more about either or both plants, then keep reading.

Philodendron pedatum and Philodendron ‘Florida’: Differences

Leaves

One of the main reasons Philodendrons are so popular is because of their lobed leaves. The changes that young leaves go through as they mature also keeps the owner guessing and makes these plants even more intriguing.

The Philodendron pedatum has leaves that change shape throughout the lifespan of the plant. Their leaves can start out oval-shaped and, as they mature, become the signature lobed leaves. These leaves are typically eight inches long, but they can reach a foot long in ideal conditions.

Philodendron ‘Florida’ leaves are smaller in size, and have less variety or changes in shape from young to mature. Some leaves may have shallow indentations while others may have longer lobes, but they generally maintain the same shape over the plant’s lifespan.

The amount of light to which the plants are exposed can also have an effect on the shape of their leaves. The more light the plant gets, the fewer indentations and the broader the leaf.

The more obvious difference when looking at the leaves of these two Philodendrons is their colors.

The Philodendron pedatum’s large leaves are much greener and its petioles are smoother. There is hardly any variegation on the pedatum’s leaves, and the color is generally consistent over the plant’s lifetime.

The leaves of the Philodendron ‘Florida’ are much paler in color and variegation is common. They start out lighter while they are young and darken over time. This is a trait of the ‘Florida’ variety that makes it so special for plant collectors. There are even sub-varieties of the ‘Florida’ that start out with white leaves that turn a bright green as they mature. The petioles of this variety are rougher and are a reddish color.

Bloom

Like all Philodendrons, neither the pedatum nor the ‘Florida’ variety flower in the traditional sense but, on the rare occasion, they do produce spathes. The Philodendron pedatum produces brown or cream spathes, while the Philodendron ‘Florida’ produces purple spathes.

Structure

The Philodendron pedatum prefers to spread as it grows. If the plant is placed in an area where it gets lots of light, the leaves will be broad and spread out like a fan from the body of the plant.

The Philodendron ‘Florida’, on the other hand, is a lot more compact and does not spread out as much. The leaves are arranged in a tighter cluster which gives the plant a denser look.

Both of these plants are climbers, so they can go as high as their supporting structure allows them. However, the ‘Florida’ usually stops growing vertically when it reaches about eight feet, while the pedatum can grow over ten feet high as long as there is a structure it can latch onto.

Philodendron pedatum and Philodendron ‘’Florida’: Similarities

These two plants share plenty of similarities because the Philodendron ‘Florida’ is a hybrid created by pairing Philodendron pedatum with Philodendron squamiferum.

Many of the care and growth requirements for the two plants are the same, so much so that you can simply place them right next to each other and care for them in exactly the same way.

Growth pattern

As mentioned above, both these plants are climbers as long as a structure is provided. If you have the space, you can make the plant trail or creep, but if you want to save space, a moss pole should be a sufficient structure for the plant to cling onto and climb.

Water

Despite the rainforests being their natural habitat, these plants do not like their soil to be persistently soggy. Like most plants, if the soil in their pot is always wet, they can become overwatered and eventually develop root rot. Root rot is when the roots of the plant drown in constantly-wet soil. The dead roots will begin to rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens which, in turn, make the rot travel faster to the rest of the plant. If you are unable to catch the rot in its early stages, it may be too late to save the plant and it will die.

These plants, on average, only need to be watered once a week during the warmer months and as seldom as once every two weeks during the cooler months.

The best way to know whether your plant needs to be watered is by touching the top two inches of the soil. If the soil is dry to the touch, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Light

The best lighting you can provide for your Philodendron plants is to simulate the light they would get in their natural habitat. In the rainforest, these plants would grow on the ground and up trees or other plants, which means that their light would be the stippled sunlight that filters through the canopy of tall trees. Place the plant in a spot where it gets bright, indirect light for several hours, followed by shade for the next couple of hours.

Do not leave the plant in a spot where it gets light all day, because it may become scorched and sunburnt. If you keep it near a window, make sure you rotate the plant every three weeks so that each side has its time in the light. This practice also prevents the plant from becoming leggy.

Soil

Because these plants are climbers, they are epiphytic, which means they prefer a looser potting mix that allows plenty of airflow. They do well in potting mixes that do not contain soil and only have coconut coir, orchid bark and peat moss.

As long as the potting mix is well-draining and includes sufficient organic matter, that should do the trick. Just make sure that, although the mix is well-draining, some moisture can still be retained.

Fertilizer

Use a fertilizer high in nitrogen, at half-strength. These plants appreciate regular feeding, especially during their growth phase in the spring and summer. Refrain from fertilizing the plants in the fall and winter because they will start going into dormancy at this time and will not need the added nutrients. Fertilizer in the soil during the fall and winter might even cause soil toxicity, and thus do more harm than good.

Diseases and pests

Both plants can get leaf spot and blight, but as long as you are vigilant and are able to remove the affected foliage in its early stages, these diseases should be easy to control. 

Common houseplant pests can also attack Philodendron pedatum and Philodendron ‘Florida’, including thrips, spider mites and mealybugs. 

You can make a cheap neem oil spray at home to effectively eradicate these pests. Mix two tablespoons of dish soap and two tablespoons of neem oil into a gallon of warm water. Transfer the solution to a garden sprayer and spray the tops and undersides of all the leaves. Do this in the late afternoon, once a week, until all the pests are gone.

Are these plants toxic?

Yes, Philodendrons are toxic to humans and animals when ingested. This can cause nausea and vomiting. If you have small children or inquisitive pets, keep these plants out of their reach.

When handling the plant, wear gloves to protect your hands from the sap as it can be an irritant. Make sure to wash the gloves and any tools you use afterwards.

Conclusion

The Philodendron pedatum and Philodendron ‘Florida’ have plenty of similarities because the latter is a hybrid of the former with Philodendron squamiferum.

The main difference between these two plants is that the pedatum grows taller than the ‘Florida’, and its leaves are blue-green while those of the ‘Florida’ can range from pale to green and have variegation. The pedatum’s spathes are cream white, and those of the ‘Florida’ are purple in color.

Despite those differences, the two plants have almost identical care instructions, with the same light, water, soil and fertilizer requirements. They also suffer from the same diseases and pests.

Both plants are toxic to humans and animals and should be kept out of reach of children and pets.

Image: istockphoto.com / butterandnoodles

The Rhaphidophora tetrasperma and the Monstera deliciosa get mistaken for each other so frequently that the former even has the nickname “mini Monstera”. The confusion is probably due to their very similar looking leaves, both of which have splits. This characteristic is also one of the reasons that both plants have become sought-out houseplants, especially the Monstera.

Despite their similarities in appearance, these two plants are actually completely different species. In this article, we will dive deeper into these differences, as well as the similarities between the two plants. So, if you would like to learn more about either or both plants, then keep reading.

Rhaphidophora tetrasperma vs Monstera deliciosa

Price and availability

The Monstera deliciosa is the rarer plant of the two and is more expensive than the Rhaphidospora tetrasperma, at almost twice the price. Moreover, some Monstera deliciosa plants are more expensive than others due to their size and variegation.

If you are looking for a Monstera, make sure you are not purchasing a mini Monstera, because that is just another name for the Rhaphidophora tetrasperma.

Leaves

Even if these two plants have similar looking, heart-shaped leaves with splits, upon closer inspection it is quite easy to point out the differences.

The Rhaphidophora’s leaves are smaller, are a dull green color, and do not grow more than a foot in length. The Rhaphidophora’s leaves also do not have the distinct holes in the middle of the leaf like those of the Monstera.

The Monstera, true to its name, has much larger leaves that can grow to two feet long. These leaves have a glossy finish and are a darker shade of green. Aside from the splits on the leaves that look like those on the Rhaphidophora, they also have holes in the middle of their leaves that the other plant does not have.

When both plants are still young, it might be more confusing to tell them apart by their leaves because young Rhaphidophora leaves have more prominent splits and holes, while young Monstera leaves do not.

Growth pattern

Both of these plants grow fast in ideal conditions, but the Rhaphidophora grows faster than the Monstera. Place them near a structure they can climb as they grow, such as a moss pole.

Water requirements

Because the Rhaphidophora is the faster growing plant of the two, that also means it consumes water at a faster rate. The soil in the plant’s pot will dry out quickly and it needs watering more frequently than the Monstera. Water the Rhaphidophora every five to seven days during the spring and summer and as little as once a month during the colder months.

Monstera deliciosa plants need to be watered once a week in the warmer months and once a month during the colder months.

Make sure you are not overwatering either plant, because this can lead to a host of problems including root rot. Root rot is a condition that develops when the plant’s roots drown in perpetually soggy soil. The dead roots will start to rot and become vulnerable to opportunistic pathogens, and these pathogens will cause the rot to spread even faster to the rest of the plant, possibly even causing it to die.

The best way to avoid overwatering and know exactly when to water your plant is by touching the top two inches of soil. If the soil is dry to the touch, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Fertilizer requirements

Neither of these plants really needs to be fertilized, but you can feed them a small amount to help them out, especially during the growing season.

Be careful when fertilizing the Rhaphidophora, since its delicate roots can get burned by the fertilizer if you give it too much. Choose an organic fertilizer to reduce the chance of fertilizer burn.

Fertilize your Monstera with a liquid fertilizer twice a month during the spring and summer.

Refrain from fertilizing either plant during the fall and winter, since this is the time of year when the plants grow the least, meaning the nutrients already present in the soil will be enough to sustain them. The addition of fertilizer at this time might do more harm than good.

Repotting the plant

As we mentioned, the Rhaphidophora is the faster grower, so it will need to be repotted more often than the Monstera.

When repotting the Rhaphidophora, discard the old soil and choose a new pot that is one size bigger than the old one. Upon removing the plant from its old pot, shake the soil from the roots and inspect them. If there are any brown or black roots, use a sterile pair of scissors to cut them off, because those roots may be rotten. Make sure the bottom of the new pot has drainage holes and that the new soil is well-draining and airy. Do not water the plant immediately after repotting; instead, wait one or two weeks before watering it.

There is little difference in the repotting process for the Rhaphidophora and the Monstera. The one big difference is that the Monstera only needs to be repotted every two to three years, because it does not grow as fast as the Rhaphidophora.

Rhaphidophora tetrasperma and Monstera deliciosa: Similarities

Temperature and humidity requirements

Both plants like a temperature between 60 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit because they are native to tropical regions.

They cannot tolerate frost, so if the temperature dips below 60 degrees for extended periods of time, move your outdoor plants inside where the temperature is easier to control.

Both plants also enjoy a higher level of humidity than most other houseplants. A constant humidity level of 50 to 60 percent is ideal. Even though they can tolerate slight changes in humidity, try not to expose them to dry air that much.

If you live somewhere that is arid and dry, you might need to help your plant out by misting its leaves every once in a while or by placing it close to humidity-loving plants so that they can all create a microenvironment around each other. You can also place a water pebble tray under the plant’s pot so that, as the water from the tray evaporates, it will moisten the soil in the pot as well as the plant’s foliage.

Finally, if you have the means, you can buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity level in the room.

Light requirements

Both plants enjoy lots of bright, indirect light in their natural habitats, so the best thing to do is try to simulate this kind of lighting as best you can. Do not place the plants under direct sunlight or close to a window that lets in too much light. An east-facing window should suffice if you plan to keep the plant indoors. If the only windows in your apartment are letting in too much light, you can dissipate the intensity by placing a sheer curtain over them.

 If you keep the plant outdoors, place it under the shade of a large tree so that only stippled sunlight can reach it. Too much sunlight can cause its beautiful leaves to burn.

If there is little to no light during the winter where you live, you might need to buy some grow lights to support your plant. Light is a necessity for these plants to survive, and a lack thereof can cause their vibrant green color to become pale.

Soil requirements

These plants prefer an airy, well-draining potting mix that is still able to retain some moisture.

A mix that could work well for both plants is a peat-based potting mix with some orchid bark.

Both plants are climbers and will have aerial roots wanting to wrap themselves around a sturdy structure. You can place the plant next to a small trellis to give it something to climb, but a moss pole should also work just fine.

Pruning the plant

Because both plants are relatively fast growers, pruning will be a constant in the care of these plants. If you find your plant has grown too long, do not be afraid to cut off some sections. Provided those sections have aerial roots, you can also propagate them.

Pruning also helps in maintaining the aesthetic of your plant. If there are leaves or new growth that make the plant look unruly, you can simply cut them off.

It is also necessary to prune off dead and rotten roots when you repot the plant, as this will prevent the spread of disease.

Pests

Both plants are vulnerable to common houseplant pests such as thrips, spider mites, mealybugs and aphids.

You can get rid of these pests by wiping the leaves down with a cotton ball soaked with alcohol.

You can also make your own neem oil spray at home. Simply mix a gallon of warm water with two tablespoons of dish soap and two tablespoons of neem oil. Transfer the solution to a garden sprayer and soak the tops and undersides of the plant’s leaves. Do this in the late afternoon, once a week, for as long as needed.

Are these plants toxic to humans and animals?

Yes, these plants contain calcium oxalate crystals that can be toxic to humans and animals. Ingestion can cause nausea, diarrhea and vomiting, so if you have small children or inquisitive pets, keep these plants out of their reach to be safe.

Conclusion

Despite looking quite similar at first glance, the Rhaphidophora tetrasperma and Monstera deliciosa are completely different species of plant.

The Monstera’s leaves are much larger and have distinct holes in the middle. They are also more glossy and a deeper shade of green with variegation, compared to the dull green leaves of the Rhaphidophora.

The Monstera is more expensive and harder to procure.

The Rhaphidophora needs watering more often than the Monstera and grows much faster, which is also why it needs to be repotted more frequently.

Despite all the differences, these two plants have a lot of similarities when it comes to their general care.

Both plants are great additions to any plant lover’s collection, so whether you prefer the understated Rhaphidophora or the flashier Monstera, your living space will be all the brighter with them around.

Image: istockphoto.com / bgton

The Ficus elastica ‘Tineke’ and Ficus elastica ‘Ruby’ are both varieties of the rubber tree, Ficus elastica. Due to their low-maintenance requirements and their beautifully colored leaves, they have become some of the most popular houseplants in recent years. 

Because both plants are derived from the same parent tree, they share plenty of similarities and are often mistaken for each other.

The most glaring difference between these two plants is the colors of their leaves. The leaves of the ‘Tineke’ are a combination of white and green, while the ‘Ruby’ has a reddish blush on its leaves.

In this article, we will discuss both the differences and the similarities between these two Ficus plants. If you want to know more about either or both plants, then keep reading.

Ficus elastica ‘Tineke’ vs Ficus elastica ‘Ruby’

Sheath

Both plants have a sheath that covers their new leaves. These sheaths shoot out from the plant’s central stalk and look like flowers at first glance, but in fact they are not. 

The sheath of the ‘Tineke’ is green in color with a slight pinkish hue, while that of the ‘Ruby’ comes in shades of pink and red, true to the plant’s name.

Color of the leaves

As mentioned above, the most glaring difference between these two plants at first glance is the difference in color.

The leaves of the ‘Tineke’ are light to dark green, with pink and whitish veins. The pink tinge will fade over time, and mature leaves usually just have green and white as their primary colors.

The ‘Ruby’ also has white and green variegation, but the presence of pink and red on the leaves is much more prominent and vibrant. The red tinge is most noticeable on younger leaves.

When a ‘Tineke’ has a lot of young leaves, the pink tinge may be more apparent, which is one of the reasons it gets mistaken for a ‘Ruby’. Remember that, for the Ficus to be considered a ‘Ruby’, it really has to have vibrant red and pink hues on its leaves and sheaths.

Confusion is also possible when the ‘Ruby’ is kept in low-light conditions. When the ‘Ruby’ does not get enough light, the vibrant red and pink on its foliage will become paler and fade. You can easily correct this by moving the ‘Ruby’ to a spot where it gets more bright light. If there is little to no natural light during the winter, you can help the plant out by purchasing grow lights.

Availability

Both Ficus elastica ‘Tineke’ and Ficus elastica ‘Ruby’ plants have exploded in popularity in the past few years. This means you can now get your hands on either plant quite easily, the ‘Tineke’ more so than the ‘Ruby’ because this variety has been around much longer.

The ‘Ruby’ may be slightly more expensive than the ‘Tineke’, because it is a little rarer and also has a more striking and unique look.

Ficus elastica ‘Tineke’ and Ficus elastica ‘Ruby’: Similarities

Leaves

Aside from the difference in the color, everything else is the same about these plants’ leaves. They have the same oval shape with a pointy end, and they have the same waxy texture when touched. The leaves can grow as long as a foot. 

The sap in the plants’ leaves and stem is called latex, and this substance acts as first aid for the plant. It can plug up any holes or wounds in the event of damage by an insect or infection. Do not touch the latex, because it can be an irritant when it comes into contact with skin.

Growth pattern

Ficus elastica plants come from countries in South Asia and are accustomed to growing under lots of sun and rain.

Both plants, in ideal conditions, can grow up to two feet in a single growing season. Rubber trees have been known to reach a hundred feet tall. Do not worry about your indoor ficus becoming a hundred feet tall, though. As long as it is planted in a pot, its growth should be much slower than in its natural habitat.

If you allow the plant to grow without pruning it, it should grow on a single stem. If you prune some leaves off, however, new branches might grow from the pruning site, which is how you can make the plant fill out and look more dense. If you prefer the single-stem look on your ficus, simply refrain from pruning it.

Temperature requirements

Both plants like their ambient temperature to be between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature can dip below 60 degrees, but not for extended periods of time. Because these plants are native to South Asia, they do not tolerate frost. Bring them indoors during the fall and winter to protect them from the cold.

If keeping it indoors, do not place the plant under an air conditioner or near a heater. The cold and warm air significantly affects the temperature around the plant and can also dry out its foliage.

Light requirements

Even though the ficus can survive in low light conditions, they will make the plant quite sad. Ficus elastica plants get plenty of light in their natural habitat, so it is best to try to simulate these conditions at home. The colors on the leaves will become even more vibrant and deep if the plant gets the right amount and type of light.

Place the plant in a spot where it gets bright, indirect light. The longer the plant is kept in dark conditions, the more the variegation will fade and the leaves will become entirely green.

Six hours each day in bright, indirect light should do the trick; also make sure you rotate the pot every three weeks so that all sides of the plant get their time under the sun.

Water requirements

These plants like their soil damp but not soggy. To achieve this, use a well-draining potting mix so that any excess water in the soil will simply drain away.

The frequency of watering will depend on several factors such as the weather, the season and the humidity where you live. Someone who lives in a dry, arid place with little to no rain will have to water their ficus more often than someone who lives in a place with cold winters and plenty of rainfall.

Make sure you take these factors into consideration, because you do not want to overwater your plant. Overwatering can lead to root rot and a host of other problems. Root rot is a condition that arises when the soil around the plant’s roots is always soggy, causing the roots to drown. The dead roots become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens that make the rot spread faster to the rest of the plant, until the entire plant is affected and dies.

The best way to know whether your plant needs to be watered is by touching the top two inches of the soil. If the soil is dry to the touch, water the plant, but if the soil is damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Repotting the plant

A potted Ficus elastica is slow-growing and will only need to be repotted every two to three years. These plants are fine with being a little rootbound.

When repotting your plant, change the soil and replace the pot with one that is just one size bigger. Use a terracotta or clay pot as opposed to a plastic or steel pot. Terracotta and clay pots allow better flow of water and air. Also make sure the pot has drainage holes at the bottom.

Fertilizer

Fertilize the plant once a month during its growing season in the spring and summer. Refrain from fertilizing in the fall and winter, because the plant’s growth will slow at this time and it will not be able to consume all the nutrients provided by the fertilizer. If the unused nutrients stay in the soil for long periods, this can lead to soil toxicity.

Conclusion

Ficus elastica ‘Tineke’ and Ficus elastica ‘Ruby’ are both derived from the Ficus elastica, or rubber tree. The most obvious difference between the two varieties is the color of their leaves. While both plants have green and white leaves, the ‘Tineke’ only has slight pinkish tinges on its leaves and sheaths, while the ‘Ruby’ has more vibrant pink and red hues.

The ‘Tineke’ is a little easier to procure and a bit cheaper than the ‘Ruby’, but they are both popular enough that you should be able to get hold of either plant relatively easily.

When it comes to the general care and growth of the two plants, they are virtually identical.

Whichever variety you end up choosing, you can never go wrong, as either will brighten up any room.

Image: istockphoto.com / Olga Gubskaya

Both the Hoya Krimson Queen and the Hoya Krimson Princess are variants of the Hoya carnosa plant.

They are often mistaken for each other because their leaves are similarly-shaped, despite having different colors. The Hoya Krimson Queen’s leaves have green centers surrounded by white margins, while the Hoya Krimson Princess’ leaves have creamy-white centers with green margins. The Queen also has a brown stem while the Princess has a pinkish stem.

In this article, we will dive deeper into the differences and similarities between these two Hoya carnosa variants, so if you wish to learn more about either or both plants, then keep reading.

Why is it important to be able to tell these two plants apart?

Despite both varieties being derived from the same plant, the Hoya carnosa, the two have different water, light and fertilizer requirements. If you mistake one plant for the other, you might be caring for it incorrectly and this can lead to the plant’s demise. Differentiating the two may be tricky in the beginning, but the longer you are exposed to the plants, the easier it will become.

Hoya Krimson Queen and Hoya Krimson Princess: Differences

Rate of growth

With regards to the growth rate of these plants, the Krimson Princess is slower than the Krimson Queen because, as studies have shown, the Krimson Princess’ leaves have less chlorophyll than those of the Krimson Queen. Less chlorophyll means less food is produced for the plant, hence slower growth.

The Krimson Queen generally has to be repotted often or propagated frequently, thanks to the abundant chlorophyll in its green leaves.

Plant stem

The stem of the Krimson Queen is long, winding and brown in color.

The Krimson Princess’ stem, on the other hand, is pinkish.

Flowers

The flowers on both plants can look very similar when you view them side by side, but a closer look will show that there are indeed differences.

The Krimson Queen’s flowers tend to be pink all the way through, while the Krimson Princess’ flowers, while also pink, have a reddish center.

Leaves

Both plants have strikingly beautiful leaves that make them great decorative houseplants. As mentioned above, the most obvious difference in the plants’ appearance can be seen in their leaves.

The Krimson Queen’s leaves grow up to two inches long and are cordate-shaped, while the Krimson Princess’ leaves grow to one to one-and-a-half inches long and are much thicker.

The Krimson Queen has smooth, waxy leaves, while the Krimson Princess’ leaves are much waxier and more textured.

The Krimson Queen’s leaves are a mixture of white and pink, with green variegation. The center of the leaf is predominantly green, while the white and pink colors stay mostly on the edges. Younger leaves tend to contain more pink and white, and the older they become, the more the green starts to show. The Krimson Princess, meanwhile, will have the creamy-white color in the center of the leaf, with green outlines.

Plant structure

The Krimson Queen can grow up to seven feet long in indoor conditions, and up to 25 feet long in the wild. This difference in length is due to the fact that the plant can get plenty of sunlight outdoors, allowing for plentiful chlorophyll production and hence growth.

The Krimson Princess grows a lot more slowly than the Krimson Queen, and it will only grow to four feet long indoors and 18 feet in the wild. If you wish to grow either plant longer and to their potential, try placing them outside so they are exposed to more sunlight for longer periods of time.

Difference in growing requirements

Sunlight

Both plants appreciate plentiful indirect light, since they stem from a plant that is native to tropical conditions. If you want to keep your plant indoors, place it near an east-facing window.

Even if both plants do like some sunlight, the Krimson Princess needs much more exposure than the Krimson Queen.

Water

The Krimson Queen’s leaves are thinner than those of the Krimson Princess, which means the latter can absorb and store more water. This is why it only needs to be watered every seven to ten days. The Krimson Queen’s thinner leaves mean it will need to be watered as often as three times a week. The best way to know if either plant needs to be watered is by touching the soil in the pot. If the soil is dry to the touch, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp to the touch, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Fertilizer

Hoya plants, in general, do not need to be fertilized much, but if you have to, the Krimson Queen appreciates fertilizer that contains phosphorus and potassium. The Krimson Princess prefers a diluted liquid fertilizer, because too much fertilizer can have some adverse effects.

Remember to choose organic fertilizers as opposed to synthetic ones, and refrain from fertilizing either plant during the fall or winter because they do not consume nutrients as quickly during cold weather.

Hoya Krimson Queen and Hoya Krimson Princess: Similarities

Since both of these plants are variants of the Hoya carnosa, they have more similarities than differences.

Temperature requirements

Both plants prefer conditions with temperatures between 60 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit. As we discussed, these are tropical plants and they will not do well in frost. Try not to expose them to temperatures lower than 60 degrees Fahrenheit, as this may affect their blooms later on.

As long as the indoor temperature where the plants are kept during winter is between 60 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit, they will be just fine.

Blooming season

The two plants may have differences in the look and structure of their blooms, but their flowers do appear at around the same time.

Bloom in either plant is rare, occurring every two to three years on average, so do not be surprised if flowers do not appear annually; this is completely normal.

Humidity requirements

Because both the Krimson Queen and the Krimson Princess are tropical plants, they enjoy higher humidity than most other houseplants. Keep the humidity level around both plants at 70 to 80 percent if you want flowering to be consistent every flowering season.

In particularly low-humidity places or seasons, you can help the plant by using a humidity tray. Place the tray, filled with water and pebbles, under the pot and allow the water to evaporate directly into the plant’s soil and foliage to keep it from drying out.

You can also mist the plant’s leaves every once in a while, but note that misting the leaves can lead to fungal growth, so do so sparingly and only when needed.

If your budget allows, you can also purchase a humidifier to control the humidity around the plant automatically.

Soil requirements

Both the Krimson Queen and Krimson Princess like to be planted in soil that drains well. A great combination would be a regular potting mix with one part perlite and two parts peat moss. It should absorb just enough moisture, while preventing the stagnation of water around the roots to reduce the chances of bacterial and fungal diseases.

Another potting mix combination you could try is orchid bark, coconut coir and pumice. This mix allows good air flow and drains water well.

Repotting

Both plants can be repotted at least once a year or up to twice a year, depending on the speed of their growth. Remember to use fresh potting mix every time the plant is repotted, to replenish the nutrients. Also check that the pot is draining well.

Refrain from planting these plants in solid, non-porous materials such as steel or plastic pots. Use terracotta or clay pots, because they let both water and air pass through more easily than steel or plastic. Oxygen can easily penetrate both pot and soil to reach the plant’s roots, to keep the plant alive and happy.

Pruning

These plants may need to be repotted often, but pruning does not seem to be needed as much. Necessary pruning can be done when you want to propagate the plant. While repotting the plant, inspect all the roots closely and remove any parts that have turned brown or black and look rotten. This will control any root rot and other infections.

If there are sections of the plant’s shoots or leaves that look infected or unhealthy, you are better off pruning those off, too. This will avoid the risk of infection spreading to the rest of the plant, or to other plants nearby.

Conclusion

The main differences between the Hoya Krimson Queen and the Hoya Krimson Princess are immediately apparent in their appearance.

The Krimson Queen typically grows taller and faster, and has thinner leaves with a green center and a white or pink outline.

The Krimson Princess does not grow quite as tall or fast due to its leaves having a mostly creamy-white center with a green outline, hence less chlorophyll.

The Krimson Queen needs more frequent watering because it has thinner leaves. It also prefers fertilizer that is high in potassium and phosphorus.

The Krimson Princess generally only needs to be watered once a week, because its leaves can absorb and store lots of water. It prefers diluted fertilizer, and needs more sunlight than the Krimson Queen because it has much less chlorophyll in its leaves.

Both plants like to be planted in a well-draining potting mix, and prefer a room temperature of 65 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit, high humidity, frequent repotting and almost no pruning.

Image: istockphoto.com / winbio

Neem oil is a commonly used pesticide for garden plants. It is inexpensive and readily available, and is effective against aphids, mites and several types of fungi.

While neem oil is a popular choice of pesticide, it is important to know how to apply it properly to your plants, because spraying too much, or too frequently, can lead to unwanted damage to the plant.

An ideal ratio is one gallon of water to two tablespoons of mild dish soap to two tablespoons of neem oil, which should be enough to get rid of any unwanted pests on your plants.

In this article, we will learn more about the correct mixture of a neem oil plant spray and how to apply it to your plants. So, if you are considering using this substance in your garden and wish to learn more about it, just keep reading.

What is neem oil?

Neem oil is extracted from the seeds of the neem tree, which is native to India. This substance has been used in traditional medicine for centuries, and has gained popularity as a biopesticide because it is non-toxic to humans, unlike most commercially available pesticides. While ready-to-use, premixed neem oil spray can be bought at a store, it is very easy to mix your own spray at home using 100% pure neem oil, and this will also save you some money.

Is neem oil toxic to animals?

No. As mentioned above, neem oil is non-toxic to humans, and the same is true for most animals, including pets and any wildlife that may find its way into your garden.

You are only going to be using a small amount of neem oil in your spray mixture, and this low concentration will not harm you or your pets. Even if you or your pet do ingest a significant amount of neem oil accidentally, it is non-carcinogenic and will have no long-term effects.

Fortunately, neem oil is also non-toxic to beneficial insects such as butterflies, spiders, ladybugs and bees, as long as they are only exposed to it after the plant has been sprayed. Try not to spray the neem oil mixture directly onto these insects.

Do note that exposure to high concentrations of neem oil can be slightly toxic to amphibians and fish, so make sure to keep those pets away while you are handling neem oil.

Is neem oil effective against all kinds of pests?

While neem oil is effective for most commonly observed houseplant pests, it is not a universal pesticide. For example, it cannot get rid of caterpillars that feed on the leaves of plants, and it is also limited regarding the types of fungi it can eradicate.

Neem oil is most effective against insects that have softer exoskeletons, such as white flies, scale insects, mealybugs, spider mites, thrips and aphids. The oil covers the insect’s body and either kills them immediately or disrupts their feeding and reproductive capabilities.

Neem oil contains the compound azadirachtin, and it is this that effectively interferes with insects’ mating, egg-laying, molting and feeding.

How to mix neem oil for plants

1. Before making your neem oil spray mixture for your plants, you will need to prepare two tablespoons of mild dish soap, two tablespoons of neem oil, one gallon of warm water, and a container big enough to hold all of those ingredients. You can wear gloves if you would like to, but they are not necessary.
2. Pour the water and the dish soap into the container. The dish soap is going to act as the emulsifying agent. Remember that water and oil do not mix, so the soap will help the other two ingredients incorporate better. Mix the water and dish soap thoroughly. This combination by itself is already a good pesticide against insects with soft exoskeletons, but adding neem oil will make it even more effective.
3. After mixing the water and dish soap, add the two tablespoons of neem oil little by little while continuously agitating the solution. When all of the oil has been added, take some time to ensure it has been blended well.
4. Pour the neem oil mixture into a garden sprayer and apply it to the tops and undersides of all your plants’ leaves. You can wear gloves if you do not want any drops of the oil getting onto your hands. This can be a useful precaution, especially for people who might have an allergic reaction to the oil.

Can I use this spray mixture on all my plants?

No. Neem oil spray can be too harsh for seedlings, because they are so delicate. Wait until the plant is at least two months old before exposing it to neem oil. You might have to reduce the neem oil to one tablespoon for younger plants and only use the two tablespoons in the full recipe for mature plants.

What time of day is best to spray the neem oil mixture?

The ideal time of day to spray your plant with the neem oil mixture is just as the sun is about to set. The first reason is that if you apply the mixture when the sun is still high, the presence of the spray on the leaves can lead to sunburn. Another reason to wait until the late afternoon is that, at this point, the beneficial insects are probably tucked away and will be better protected from being directly hit by the solution. This way, only the pests are significantly affected and the solution will have the entire night to work its magic.

How often should I spray my plants with the neem oil mixture?

You must not spray your plants any more frequently than once a week. There is no lasting effect, but there also does not seem to be any noticeable difference in effectiveness between spraying once a week or spraying more often.

As to how many weeks you should continue applying the neem oil mixture, this is dependent on the situation. Make sure you check the plant every week before you spray it to check whether the application is necessary. If the plant looks completely pest-free, then you are free to discontinue spraying it.

Tips for neem oil use

• Remember not to add too much neem oil to your mixture, as increased concentrations can lead to sunburn.

• Wait until the plant is at least two months old before spraying it with the mixture.

• Make a new batch of neem oil mixture on the day of intended use, because stored, old mixture will have a different consistency and will be difficult to spray. Only prepare a batch big enough for you to finish on the day.

• You can use a hand soap that contains peppermint extract as added insect repellant. Some insects instinctively shy away from the smell of peppermint.

• Neem oil is also effective against some fungi, so you can try using it on your trees – especially those afflicted with powdery mildew.

Conclusion

Neem oil is an inexpensive, readily-available, non-toxic pesticide that can eradicate most soft-skinned pests and some fungi.

While commercially available neem oil sprays are an option, it is cheaper to make your own mixture at home. Mix one gallon of water with two tablespoons of dish soap and two tablespoons of neem oil. Mix the solution thoroughly before transferring it to a sprayer.

Spray the solution once a week for as long as needed. Make sure you spray your plants during the late afternoon so that the leaves do not burn under the hot sun.

Image: istockphoto.com / Ninetechno

Citrus trees are a genus of flowering trees and shrubs that belong to the family Rutaceae. Native to Australia and Asia, they have glossy, oval-shaped leaves and bear edible fruits including lemon, sweet orange, tangerine, grapefruit, and lime, among others. Like most plants, these trees are also susceptible to certain diseases and infections, as well as the effects of poor cultural care, any or all of which could lead to the plant’s death unless treated promptly.

Why is my citrus tree dying? 

Over- or underwatering

Overwatering your citrus tree could lead to root rot because constantly waterlogged soil prevents air circulation around the roots, and the roots are therefore unable to absorb oxygen. The leaves will turn pale green or yellow and may curl or drop off. Meanwhile, rotting roots will appear brown or black and will feel mushy, as opposed to healthy roots which are firm and pale. The best way to save your plant from root rot is to repot it in a new, clean pot, using fresh soil, because the old pot and soil will be infected with pathogens. 

Underwatering, on the other hand, can leave your plant dehydrated, resulting in dry, crisp leaves which will eventually fall off. Keep the roots cool and help the soil retain moisture by mulching around the base of the tree. However, make sure the mulch does not touch the tree directly, as it could introduce diseases. 

Incorrect growing conditions

Citrus trees are more likely to die if their soil or their pot has inadequate drainage. Effectively, poor drainage causes overwatering, because the soil retains moisture for too long, which drowns the roots. The plant may develop dull leaves, weak branches, slow or stunted growth, and premature fruit drop. Move the tree to an elevated spot with loose or loamy soil, or plant it in a raised bed.  Gravity assists the drainage of excess water from the soil while still allowing the soil to retain a degree of moisture.

Potted citrus trees should have sufficient drainage holes in the pot, and well-draining soil. If the soil retains too much water, repot the tree in new and appropriate soil. The tree should be placed in an area where it can get sunlight for at least six hours daily. 

Lack of nutrients 

If your citrus tree is developing yellow leaves that eventually fall off, this could be an indication of a nitrogen deficiency. If not addressed in time, this could lead to the complete loss of the tree’s leaves, and even death. Nitrogen is important for foliage growth and the overall health of trees. However, too much nitrogen could also harm the plant, because it can burn the roots. 

Provide a good balance of nutrients by using a fertilizer that contains nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium at a ratio of 2:1:1. A good choice for citrus trees is a 6-3-3 fertilizer.

Pests or diseases 

Root rot, which is a fungal disease, is common among citrus trees and is usually caused by overwatering. Once the roots have become compromised by the excess moisture, they are susceptible to pathogens in the soil, which attack the roots and cause the rot to spread faster throughout the plant. To have a chance at saving your tree, you need to catch the rot before it has affected the entire tree and remove its damaged and rotten roots before replanting it in fresh, sterile soil.

There are also several pests that can ravage citrus trees and suck the sap from their tissue. This will weaken the tree, resulting in discolored leaves that eventually fall off. It is easier to deal with a pest infestation in its early stages, so make a habit of checking for pests every time you water your tree, and eliminate any infestations before they become severe.

How to save a dying citrus tree

Pinpoint the possible causes or problems.

To successfully save your dying citrus tree, you will need to determine the most probable cause of its declining health. Identify the specific symptoms your tree is displaying, cross-check these with the most common problems encountered by citrus trees, and see if you can match them with any specific issue or cause. It might be useful to consult your local nursery for help in determining the cause of the problem, and for advice regarding the best solution.

Test the solutions.  

After identifying the most likely solutions, start testing them. Begin with the least invasive, such as adjusting your watering schedule, and work your way up to the most invasive, such as repotting the tree. Testing each possible solution will help to determine the most effective one.

Essential tips for saving your dying citrus tree 

To help your plant bounce back to optimal health, provide it with the best possible growing conditions. Give it at least one to two inches of compost every one or two months; this is one of the best sources of nutrients for your citrus tree. Also, apply fertilizer before every growing season. Citrus trees are heavy feeders and they need nutrients to thrive and bear fruit.

Check that your tree is getting the correct levels of sunlight. Citrus trees thrive in sunny areas, so placing them somewhere next to a sunny, south-facing wall will be ideal. 

Can I save my citrus tree if it has lost all its leaves?

To check whether a citrus tree with no leaves can still be revived, cut off a small branch to inspect the inside. If you can see a wet, green inner surface, it means the tree is still alive and can be saved with the correct care and attention. 

Conclusion 

Citrus trees are widely cultivated for their edible fruits, which are popular in every nation worldwide. Like most plants, they are prone to diseases and the effects of poor cultural care, and in these cases may manifest symptoms such as wilting or discolored leaves and unhealthy root systems. You can save your dying citrus tree by identifying the probable cause of its declining health and then applying the available solutions, starting with the least invasive, such as adjusting your watering techniques. If this less invasive solution does not help the tree, you will need to take further measures, such as repotting it in a new pot with fresh soil and possibly even pruning the root system.

Image: istockphoto.com / Olga Ostapenko

The shamrock gets its name due to the shape of its leaves, which resemble those of a clover. In the Gaelic language, the word ‘seamróg’ means ‘little clover.’ These plants have become quite popular among plant enthusiasts and are kept as houseplants because they are relatively low-maintenance and they bloom during the winter.

Your shamrock will need occasional repotting, and the most common reason is that it has outgrown its old pot. If you do not repot it in time, it can become rootbound, which can cause a host of problems for the plant.

In this article, we will discuss the reasons your shamrock may need to be repotted, when you should repot it, and how to correctly do this.

So, if you are thinking about repotting your shamrock but need to learn more about it before jumping in, just keep reading.

When and how often should you repot a shamrock?

The best time to repot your shamrock is when it is just about to come out of dormancy. This is because it is best for the plant to undergo a stressful event when it is just about to start actively growing. In its active growth phase, the plant will recover much faster from the repotting process.

The shamrock can go dormant several times a year, so it is all about timing.

Typically, you should only need to repot your shamrock once a year. It is fine with being slightly rootbound and this frequency of repotting should suffice without it becoming a chore for you.

Why do you need to repot your shamrock?

The most important and common reason a shamrock plant needs repotting is when it has outgrown its pot. These plants are fast growers, especially when they are younger.

A shamrock that has outgrown its pot will become rootbound, which is when the roots are so crowded within the pot that they no longer have space to grow into. You will see roots growing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, and they will displace the soil in the pot until there is very little soil left. The roots will wrap around the root ball until it forms a solid root mass that even water cannot penetrate. This can lead to root rot when the inner roots can no longer dry out completely between waterings. The rot starts when the roots die from being constantly wet, and they become susceptible to pathogens in the soil that exacerbate the rot, causing it to spread faster to the rest of the plant.

Sometimes there is so little soil left that no water is retained, and the plant ends up thirsty or even dehydrated.

Another reason to repot the plant is to replace the soil. Over time, the soil in the plant’s pot will become depleted of essential minerals and nutrients, and the only way to replenish them is by using fresh soil. Poorly-draining soil will also need replacing with a potting medium that is well-draining so that any excess water can flow easily through it and out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

How to choose the right pot for your shamrock

When it comes to choosing the new pot, the most important factor is size. Make sure that the new pot is only one size, or two inches in diameter, bigger than the old one. It may be tempting to buy a pot five times bigger because you think it will save you time and money, but this will not benefit the plant. A large pot means more soil will be needed to fill it, and the more soil is in the pot, the more water is retained. The more water in the pot, the higher the chances of the plant becoming overwatered and getting root rot.

Choose a pot made of clay or terracotta. Avoid plastic or metal containers because they are too dense and will not allow the roots to dry out sufficiently between waterings. Clay and terracotta are porous enough to let water and air pass through to reach the soil and the roots.

Make sure the new pot has drainage holes at the bottom, also to avoid overwatering.

How to choose the right soil for your shamrock

The shamrock is not that particular about the kind of soil it needs. It is completely fine growing in regular potting soil, as long as it is not too dense or compact. The soil should retain enough water to keep the plant happy, but it should also dry fast enough that it does not cause the plant to become overwatered.

If you think that your soil is too heavy and dense, you can make it looser and better-draining by adding either perlite or coarse sand. The addition of the coarse sand or perlite will allow air and water to reach the roots more easily than when it is just pure soil.

How to repot a shamrock

The night before repotting the plant, water it generously so that the soil is loose and the plant is well-hydrated and happy.

The next morning, remove the plant from its old pot. Lay the plant and pot on one side and, while holding the pot, gently pull on the plant until it slides out. If the plant seems to be stuck in the pot, use an old knife or spatula to loosen the sides of the soil from the edges of the pot. If the plant still will not budge, you might need to break the pot. However you do it, try to inflict as little damage as possible to the plant’s roots and foliage.

After removing the plant from the pot, massage or shake off as much soil as you can from the roots. If you need to use water to wash the soil off, do so.

Once the roots are exposed, inspect them all and look out for parts that are brown, black, soft and mushy. These are rotten and you will need to remove them. Use a sterilized knife or scissors to cut off all the damaged roots.

When all the damaged roots have been removed, prepare the new pot by filling it to a third of the way up with fresh soil. Place the plant’s root ball in the middle and then fill in it with new soil until the soil sits around an inch below the rim of the pot.

Water the plant and place it in a spot where it can get lots of bright, indirect light.

Conclusion

The shamrock is an alluring and intriguing plant whose leaves resemble those of a clover. It is a relatively low-maintenance plant and only really needs repotting when its roots have outgrown the pot. You will know your plant has outgrown its pot when there are roots growing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, or roots are displacing the soil and appearing above the rim of the pot.

Repot your shamrock by removing it from its old pot, getting rid of the old soil, inspecting the roots and removing damaged roots, and planting the shamrock in a new pot filled with fresh, new soil.

Water the plant after repotting and place it where it can get lots of bright, indirect light.

Image: istockphoto.com / imacoconut

The string of pearls plant does not need to be repotted very often because it is not a very fast-growing plant, but it also cannot be considered slow-growing.

When the plant’s roots have become crowded inside the pot and this is affecting the entire plant, it may be rootbound, which means you really need to replace the pot with a larger one that will give the plant more space to grow into.

In this article, we will discuss the reasons and the signs that your string of pearls needs repotting, and how to properly perform this process.

If you have a string of pearls and are thinking about repotting it, keep reading to learn more about the process.

Why does a string of pearls need to be repotted?

Before we dive into the process of repotting the plant, let us first discuss the situations in which the plant would need to be repotted.

One of the most common reasons a plant needs to be repotted is that it is rootbound.

In its natural habitat, a plant grows in the ground and its roots have unlimited space to spread sideways. Its potential for growth is unrestricted. Compare that to a string of pearls grown in a container or pot, where the space for the roots is limited. After a few years, the new roots will have nowhere to go and will end up wrapping around themselves until they become one large, tangled root ball.

If the plant is rootbound, this can affect the overall health of the plant. The growth will be slow or stunted and there will not be enough soil, and therefore nutrients, for the plant’s needs.

The roots will end up occupying so much space in the pot that they may even cause the pot to break. The roots will start to grow out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, and may even displace so much soil that they become visible above the pot, too.

Because there is so little soil left, the water and nutrients that the soil should retain for the plant will be significantly reduced, and eventually the plant will weaken and even die.

Even though the plant’s root system is typically shallow, that does not mean it prefers smaller pots. Later in this article, we will discuss the correct pot for your string of pearls.

Signs of a rootbound string of pearls

The following are signs that are visible above the soil, or outside the pot. 

If the plant looks dehydrated despite you watering it correctly, or if you can see roots growing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, these are signs that your plant is possibly rootbound.

If the plant’s growth has slowed down considerably or halted altogether in the past few weeks, this can also be attributed to the plant being rootbound.

The pearls on the plant will also start to shrivel and turn yellow, and water will drain from the pot faster than usual, letting the soil dry out faster, too.

To confirm your diagnosis of a rootbound plant, you will need to remove the plant from the pot so you can inspect the roots more closely.

How to check a string of pearl’s roots

Pull all of the plant’s stems to one side so that they do not get in the way of you checking the roots.

Remove the plant from its pot as gently and slowly as possible so that the least amount of damage is done to the plant and its roots. If you are having a difficult time getting the plant out of the pot, run an old knife around the edge of the soil on the inside of the pot to loosen it.

Once you have removed the plant from the pot, check all the roots for signs of being rootbound. These signs include the roots being tangled and consuming most of the space in the pot. 

If the roots have only just begun wrapping themselves around the main root ball, that means that the problem is still in its early stages. However, if the roots have matted around the root ball and there is very little soil left in the pot and in the root mass itself, then the plant is severely rootbound. In this case, you need to repot it as soon as possible.

You can fix a rootbound string of pearls either by repotting it or by propagating it.

How to repot a string of pearls

This plant does not need to be repotted as frequently as most plants, but if you are convinced that the plant is rootbound, repotting it will be necessary.

The best pot to choose is one size larger than the old pot, to give the roots more space to grow into. Remember not to jump the gun and choose a pot that is too large. A large pot means more soil is needed to fill it, and more soil means more water is retained. When more water is retained, the plant is at a higher risk of becoming overwatered and getting root rot.

Use fresh potting soil to replenish the plant’s nutrient supply. Healthy soil also makes the transfer of water and nutrients from the soil much smoother.

Before you start the repotting process, prepare the new pot, the fresh soil, and a sterilized knife or pair of scissors for trimming.

Gently remove the plant from its old pot, making sure that the plant and its roots are not damaged in the process. Shake off as much of the old soil from the roots as gently but as effectively as you can. If there are any dry or dead roots, cut them off using the knife or the scissors, so that only healthy roots remain.

Fill the new pot about a third of the way with fresh soil. Place the plant in the new pot and start filling the gaps around the roots, making sure there are no air pockets in the soil.

Water the plant immediately after repotting.

How to propagate a string of pearls

Another solution to resolving a rootbound string of pearls is to propagate it, especially if it has become quite bulky and thick. If you do not want the plant to get any bigger than it currently is, this is a good way of dealing with it, because you will be dividing it into two smaller plants.

Take your selected cuttings from the parent plant using sterilized scissors. You can leave these cuttings out for a few days with no problem.

Fill the new pots with fresh potting soil – preferably a succulent mix.

Place the cuttings in the soil, making sure that the nodes are buried.

After a few weeks, the cuttings will establish their own roots and you will have multiple strings of pearls as opposed to one plant that is becoming crowded in its pot.

What is the best soil and pot to use for a string of pearls?

The wrong kind of soil can cause problems for your string of pearls, which is why it is imperative that you use the correct soil when repotting the plant. If you use the ideal soil, the plant will be provided with its essential nutrients and minerals, as well as appropriate drainage to keep it healthy and happy. 

This plant likes soil that drains well, because it is a succulent and likes its soil to dry out between waterings. Succulents have fleshy leaves and stems that can store a lot of water for use during droughts, and they really do not like their roots standing in waterlogged soil for days on end.

Use a succulent or cactus mix that you can buy at your local gardening store. If your local store does not stock such a mix, you can also make your own, using components that will create a well-draining soil mix that your string of pearls will like. Just mix two parts regular potting soil with one part perlite and one part grit or coarse sand. The soil provides the plant with nutrients while the perlite and grit provide the drainage properties.

As mentioned above, choose a new pot that is only one size bigger than the old one, because using a larger pot can lead to overwatering and root rot.

Choose a pot made of clay or terracotta. Refrain from using plastic or metal containers because those materials do not promote good aeration and may suffocate the plant. They also do not let water seep through them, encouraging possible overwatering.

When is the best time to repot a string of pearls?

This plant does not need to be repotted as often as other plants; in fact, you should refrain from repotting it too frequently because repotting is a stressful experience for the plant and it needs to be completely healthy to recover properly.

Keeping an eye on the plant’s roots is enough to know whether or not it needs to be repotted. It only really needs this when it is rootbound.

Repotting is best done during the spring or summer, because this is when the plant is actively growing. If you repot it during the winter when it is dormant, it will have a harder time recovering from the trauma of repotting.

Conclusion

Repot your string of pearls when the plant is getting too big for its old pot or container. This plant does not grow very fast, so you only really need to repot it when it becomes rootbound.

A rootbound string of pearls will have stunted growth and roots growing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

You can remedy a rootbound string of pearls either by repotting the entire plant in a bigger pot, or by propagating it by division.

Repot the plant by removing it from the old pot, trimming any dead roots and foliage, and planting it in a new pot with adequate drainage holes, using fresh succulent or cactus mix. Water the plant after repotting it.

Make sure the new pot is one size larger than the old one so that the plant’s roots have plenty of space to grow into.

Propagating can reduce the size and thickness of the plant by removing some cuttings and planting them in their own small pots, so that they can grow into their own individual plants.

Image: istockphoto.com / Tatyana Consaul

The fiddle leaf fig has really gained popularity as a houseplant in the U.S. over recent years. Its huge, elegant leaves add dramatic decor to any living space.

These plants can be tricky to care for, because they actually do not do as well indoors as they would as outdoor plants. That does not mean they cannot be kept indoors, of course, but there are specific rules that should be followed to keep them happy indoors.

One of the most common problems encountered by fiddle leaf fig owners is root rot. This is when the plant’s roots are constantly surrounded by soggy soil, and they die and start to rot due to pathogens in the soil. The rot will spread from the roots to the rest of the plant, and can kill it if not caught early enough.

In this article, we will discuss the causes of root rot in fiddle leaf figs and how to repot one with this condition. So, if you are currently having this problem and you want to learn more, just keep reading.

Signs of root rot in fiddle leaf fig

1. Algae on the soil

In fiddle leaf figs with root rot, it is not uncommon to see algae or mold growing around the base of the plant. Note that mold and algae love environments that are perpetually moist, so if you have been consistently overwatering your plant, these are the ideal conditions for them, and most likely also root rot.

2. Leaves turning brown

One of the first signs you will notice is the browning of the plant’s leaves. At first, the browning will be small spots, but the longer you allow the overwatering and root rot to continue, the more these spots will spread, until entire leaves have turned brown or even black.

3. Drooping stems

Another sign of root rot in fiddle leaf figs is drooping stems. This sign may not be as obvious at the start, because the weight of the large leaves naturally causes the stems to droop a bit, but if the stems appear to be drooping more than usual, this might point towards root rot.

4. Smelly soil

When the roots of the plant are beginning to rot, there will be an accompanying rotten smell. Healthy roots should not have this musty smell, and it is usually indicative of root rot that has been present for a while. If you cannot smell anything, that does not automatically eliminate the possibility of root rot, because it might still be in its early stages.

5. Soft, mushy, brown or black roots

The most damning and obvious sign that your fiddle leaf fig has root rot is when the roots have turned soft and mushy and are brown or black instead of white and firm. Roots that are afflicted with rot are essentially dead and decomposing, hence the change in texture and in color. The rotten smell will be amplified if you remove the plant from the pot to inspect it.

How to check a fiddle leaf fig’s roots

If you see one or more of the signs of root rot mentioned above and you want to confirm the diagnosis, you need to remove the plant from its pot so that you can examine the roots more closely.

Remove the plant gently from the pot, because the roots will be fragile and you do not want to lose more roots than necessary. Sometimes you can just slide the plant out with no problem; other times you will need to squeeze the pot to help the plant slide out.

After removing the plant from the pot, shake off as much of the old soil from the roots as you can. If you need to run the plant under the tap to clean off more soil, do so. Again, remember to be gentle so as not to break off any significant portions of root.

Now that the roots are visible without the soil, look for parts that are not white and firm. Rotten roots are brown or black and they feel soft and mushy when you touch them.

If such rotten roots are present and the soil seems to be waterlogged, you can safely deduce that your plant has root rot.

Causes of root rot in fiddle leaf figs

• Too much water

The most common cause of root rot in these plants is overwatering. Overwatering can occur due to various scenarios: You may be giving the plant more water than it needs each time you water it, you may be watering it more often than you should, you may be leaving it out in the rain, you have not adjusted your watering schedule to the change of season or weather, you are using a pot that does not have drainage holes, or you are using poorly-draining soil. Basically, all these situations will result in the plant’s roots standing in constantly waterlogged soil. The roots will drown because they are unable to dry out enough to get access to oxygen, and they will then begin to rot.

Avoiding overwatering is the most important factor in avoiding root rot, because they essentially go hand-in-hand. The trick is to only water your fiddle leaf fig when the top two inches of soil in the pot are dry to the touch. 

• The wrong soil

As mentioned above, using the wrong soil for your plant can also lead to overwatering. 

When soil is too dense or compact, the water will be trapped and will stay in the middle of the soil in the pot.

This plant likes soil that is well-draining. It should be airy and loose and allow air to flow freely through the soil and the roots, so that the roots can dry out between waterings and get the oxygen they need to survive.

The soil’s pH level should be somewhere between 5.0 and 6.0.

You can make your own soil mix by combining one part perlite to two parts regular potting soil. The perlite will make the soil more well-draining and porous.

• Poorly-draining pot

Even if the soil you are using is airy and well-draining, if the pot does not have drainage holes at the bottom, the water will have nowhere to go and will end up being reabsorbed by the soil anyway, making it waterlogged and causing root rot. The drainage holes also need to be large enough that chunks of soil cannot block them.

The material of the pot can also be an issue. If you are using a pot or container made of plastic or metal, the roots will not be able to dry out as fast because these materials are not porous. Air will also not be able to enter the pot very freely. Use a container made of either clay or terracotta, because these materials are porous and will let water seep through them if you pour too much into the soil.

Remember not to choose a pot that is too big for the plant. A big pot means more soil is needed to fill it, and more soil means more water will be retained, possibly leading to overwatering.

How to repot a fiddle leaf fig with root rot

Once you have confirmed that your fiddle leaf fig does have root rot, you will need to repot it as soon as possible.

You will first have to remove the plant from its current pot. Do this gently so that the roots are not damaged as you pull it out.

Shake or wash off as much of the old soil as you can from the roots, so you can inspect them more easily.

The healthy roots will be white and will feel firm when you touch them. If there are any roots that are brown or black and feel soft and mushy to the touch, those are rotten and you will need to remove them before repotting the plant.

Use a sterilized knife or scissors to cut off the affected roots. Make sure no rotten roots are left, because they can reinfect the plant. Even the smallest trace of rot needs to be removed.

Remove any damaged leaves as well, if you want to preserve the plant’s aesthetic.

After removing all the damaged roots and foliage, you are ready to repot the plant.

Choose a new pot, made of clay or terracotta, that has adequately-sized drainage holes at the bottom. Dispose of all of the old soil, because it is contaminated. If you want to reuse the old pot you can do so, but make sure you wash and disinfect it thoroughly so that all the pathogens are killed.

If the cause of overwatering and root rot is poorly-draining soil, you will need to amend your soil mix. Use one with components that will make the soil drain better, such as perlite or coarse sand. These materials are bigger and chunkier than soil particles and will allow air and water to move more freely around the plant’s roots.

Place the plant in the new pot and fill it in with the new soil mix. Do not pack the soil in, as this can make it too compact. It should just be loose and airy.

After repotting the plant, water it immediately so that it can start recovering.

How to care for a newly-repotted fiddle leaf fig

After repotting the plant, make sure you correct your watering techniques to avoid overwatering it again. As discussed earlier, overwatering and root rot go hand in hand, and the longer you overwater the plant, the more likely root rot will follow, which brings even more serious consequences.

Do not fertilize your fiddle leaf fig right after repotting it because it will still be recovering. Repotting is a stressful and traumatic process for the plant and it needs to recover completely before being subjected to the minerals found in fertilizers. You might think that fertilizing the plant will make it heal faster, but you could actually do it more harm than good. 

How to avoid root rot in your fiddle leaf fig

As already stated, the best way to avoid root rot is to avoid overwatering. You can do this by following proper watering techniques. There is no set schedule to follow when watering your fiddle leaf fig; rather, it is a matter of knowing when your plant needs to be watered. You will know this by touching the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the soil is dry, water the plant; if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Make sure the plant’s pot has sufficient drainage and that the drainage holes are not clogged with clumps of soil or roots.

You can also help aerate the soil, and hence allow it to dry faster, by poking holes in it with a chopstick or a wooden barbecue skewer.

Conclusion

Fiddle leaf figs are Instagram-popular plants thanks to their large, luscious leaves that boost the aesthetic of any indoor space. They are not the easiest plants to grow indoors, and typically do much better outdoors. However, as long as you provide your plant with the best possible cultural care, it should do just fine.

A fiddle leaf fig with root rot will have browning leaves, drooping stems, foul-smelling soil, algae and mold growing on the soil, and soft, mushy, brown or black roots.

If your fiddle leaf fig has root rot, you need to repot it immediately. Remove the plant from the old pot, wash off the soil, trim off any rotten roots, and plant it in a new pot with adequate drainage holes, using well-draining soil. Water the plant after repotting it to aid its recovery.

Avoid root rot by watering the plant only when the soil is dry, checking the drainage holes to make sure they are not clogged, using porous and airy soil, and aerating the soil by poking holes in it with a chopstick.

Image: istockphoto.com / Bogdan Kurylo

Dracaena is a genus of around 120 species of trees and succulent shrubs, common varieties of which include corn plants and dragon trees. The smaller species are sold as lucky bamboo plants, but they are not actually related to bamboo at all. Rather, this genus belongs to the family Asparagaceae. 

Like all plants, your dracaena will periodically outgrow its pot, and will need to be transferred to a larger pot. This prevents the roots becoming rootbound, and thus avoids slowed or stunted growth. It can also provide essential nutrients for the plant, because you will be replacing the potting mix at the same time as repotting. Over time, the plant’s soil becomes depleted of  nutrients, so fresh soil is also important for the plant’s overall health. In this article, we will explain how to repot your dracaena, as well as providing some tips on how to care for this plant, and details of some common species.

How to repot dracaena

First, you will need to prepare a pot and potting mix that are ideal for your dracaena. The pot should be one size larger than the previous one, to give the roots more space to grow. Do not choose a pot that is too large, however, as this could result in too much water being retained in the extra soil, which can lead to root rot.

Combine equal parts potting soil and vermiculite, mixing them well. Fill the pot halfway with this mix and water it thoroughly.

Next, remove the dracaena from its current pot. It will slide out easily if it is rootbound, because the roots will be circling the pot and holding the soil together in one mass. 

Use your fingers to tease the roots apart. This may take some time if the plant has become severely rootbound, but do not rush this, as you risk damaging the roots. Trim off any soft, damaged or dead roots and loosen the fatter ones. 

Position the plant in the new pot to assess the depth and add more soil to the base if necessary. Then, fill the spaces around the roots with the new soil mix, up to one inch below the pot’s rim. 

Water the plant until water flows out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Allow it to drain for 15 minutes and repeat the watering process. When the soil has settled, add more until the surface is back to one inch below the pot’s rim. 

Dracaena plant care 

These plants are prone to overwatering, just like most houseplants, so always plant them in pots that have drainage holes. Use a standard, well-draining potting mix and give it time to dry out between waterings.  Water the plants more often during spring and summer, which are the growing seasons, and less during fall and winter. Fertilize monthly during spring and summer. 

The plant’s lighting requirements will depend on the species. Varieties like D. fragrans and D. massangeana thrive in low light, but D. marginata prefers bright, indirect light. Direct sunlight could damage the leaves unless the plant has always grown in direct sun and is accustomed to it.

These plants do not need too much water, but when the soil dries out they should be given a good soak. Use filtered water, rainwater or distilled water, since they are sensitive to salts and minerals. They also prefer their soil on the dry side, because soil that is too moist promotes root rot and fungus. 

The ideal temperature for dracaenas is above 65 degrees Fahrenheit.  Sudden cold or frost could damage their leaves, so keep them away from drafts during the winter. These plants prefer higher humidity levels during summer or in forced-air environments. 

To reduce your plant’s size, cut off the top. New foliage will grow back at the top and the plant will have a fuller look. If the plant is not growing well, try moving it to a spot with more light. 

How to propagate dracaena

To propagate dracaena, take cuttings from plants that have grown too tall or leggy and root them in water. Be aware that rooting could take several months. Repot the cuttings when the roots have grown to an inch long. Multiple cuttings can be planted in one pot. 

Some plant owners have also rooted cuttings by laying them on soil and keeping the soil moist until roots develop. 

Where to grow dracaenas

Dracaenas do best in areas with bright, indirect sunlight, but some species can tolerate low or medium light. However, keep them away from excessive sunlight since this can cause sunburn. Also avoid areas with low humidity.  If you live in an area with lower-than-desired humidity, mist the plant’s leaves occasionally to boost the moisture around it, or place the plant’s pot in a shallow tray filled with pebbles and water. 

Popular species of dracaena 

1. Dracaena marginata 

This species is also known as the dragon tree, or Madagascar dragon tree. It is easy to maintain, but it may take three years to reach its mature height of four feet. The leaf variations within this species include dracaena magenta and marginata colorama. 

2. Dracaena marco

This species is usually grown as a houseplant, but it is also ideal for outdoors, especially if you are in a tropical or subtropical area. It can grow up to 25 feet tall, and produces greenish-white flowers that turn into orange berries during the summertime. 

3. Dracaena arborea

This species is best suited to the outdoors, especially in tropical areas. It does well in areas of partial shade to bright, direct sunlight. Although drought-tolerant, it should be watered regularly and needs well-draining soil. 

4. Dracaena fragrans / massangeana 

This is also known as a corn plant or mass cane, since the leaves resemble corn leaves. It does not need much water and thrives in low light conditions. This makes it ideal for office reception areas, malls, hallways and sunrooms. 

5. Dracaena reflexa

This species has varieties that include songs of Jamaica and songs of India plants. It has wider leaves than the marginata, with cream-colored margins. This plant occasionally produces small flowers. 

6. Dracaena deremensis Janet Craig 

This species has attractive, dark green leaves that grow in compact tufts. It is easy to grow and care for, and varieties include dracaena deremensis Lisa, dracaena deremensis Michiko, and dracaena deremensis Hawaiian sunshine.  

 Conclusion 

Dracaena plants are popular indoor plants that add aesthetic value to hallways, sunrooms, offices and homes. They will periodically outgrow their pots, like any plant, and will need repotting when this happens. You may also need to repot them to refresh their soil, which becomes depleted of nutrients over time.

To repot these plants, use a well-draining potting mix and a pot one size larger than the current pot, with adequate drainage holes. Trim off any damaged roots and loosen fatter and tangled ones, and water the plant well after repotting it. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Jamaludin Yusup

In recent years, the lucky bamboo plant has gained popularity the world over, even in non-Asian households. This is not only because it can be maneuvered into various formations, but also because it is a relatively easy plant to grow and care for.

Traditionally, this plant is presented as a gift to loved ones or friends as a token of good fortune and luck, hence its name. It also has air purifying properties, which is a quality that is especially appreciated in indoor plants.

Lucky bamboo is very versatile, even with regard to its growing medium. It can grow in soil, water, and even on rocks.

In this article, we will discuss how to repot your lucky bamboo plant in rocks, as well as why it is important to repot the plant in general.

If you are considering repotting your lucky bamboo in rocks, or if you simply want to learn more about repotting it, then keep reading.

Why is it important to repot your lucky bamboo?

A lucky bamboo plant needs repotting when its current growing conditions have become unfavorable. Often, replacing the potting medium and the container can help fix the problem.

The first reason your lucky bamboo may need to be repotted is to provide it with fresh growing medium that can provide it with its essential nutrients and minerals. Doing this will maintain the plant’s overall health.

Another time that repotting can be helpful is when you are trying to bring a pest infestation under control. If you think your lucky bamboo may be infested with aphids, termites, mealybugs or bamboo mites, you can repot it in fresh soil, alongside your other treatment measures, to prevent further damage and ensure that the plant’s growth is not stunted.

If your lucky bamboo is kept in a container that has become too small, you will need to repot it to a bigger container to give its roots more space to grow into. Remember that lucky bamboo grows very quickly, so it will not take very long for it to outgrow its container. The roots can become suffocated and a change of container and growing medium will be necessary for it to continue growing optimally.

Basically, your plant’s pot needs to increase in size along with the plant itself. Think of it like a child’s shoes. Children’s feet grow much faster than most parents anticipate, and they are constantly buying new shoes that are a size bigger than the old ones. The same is true for your plants, and it is important not to disregard their needs.

How to repot your lucky bamboo in rocks

Before repotting your lucky bamboo, there are several things you should have to hand. These include your new pots, some water, a dusting cloth or an old towel, and the rocks that you plan to use.

A lucky bamboo’s ability to grow well with little attention starts with proper potting, so it pays to give some time and attention to this process.

First, you will need to prepare a clean workspace to perform the repotting, and ensure that the knives or scissors you may need to trim the plant are sterilized, so that there is no risk of contamination. If you want to be extra careful about possible contamination, you can also wear gloves.

Wash the rocks with running water until all the soil and dirt have been removed. There might have been pathogens in this soil and dirt which could infect the lucky bamboo, which is why washing them is important. Then, rinse out the new pot and fill it to about one third with rocks. 

Next, place the pot under the tap and fill it with water until about halfway. If you have access to rainwater or filtered water, all the better. As much as possible, use water that contains neither chlorine nor fluoride. If your water does contain chlorine, place it in a container and leave it out for at least a day so that the chlorine evaporates before using it.

If a lucky bamboo plant is left for many weeks in water that contains fluoride and chlorine, it may die, so avoiding these is a must.

Once the new pot is prepared with the rocks and water, you can remove the lucky bamboo from its old pot. Do this as slowly and gently as possible so that minimal damage is done.

After removing the plant, check the stalks for any yellow parts, and check for dead or damaged roots. Remove any unhealthy looking stems and roots using your sterilized tools.

Next, place the lucky bamboo in the new pot so that the roots are almost touching the bottom of the pot. Rearrange the rocks if you need to make space for the plant, or to provide support so that the plant stays upright.

When the plant is secure, place the pot in an area where it can get lots of sunshine, but make sure it is not direct sunlight because that can burn the plant.

Check the water level every day to ensure that the water is always covering the rocks. The stalks of the plant do not need to be submerged; only the roots need to have contact with the water.

Change all of the water in the container once a week so that the container and the rocks can stay clean.

How to care for a lucky bamboo plant in rocks

1. Water

Unlike most plants, a lucky bamboo growing in rocks will not need to be watered because it is, of course, already growing in water. Just make sure that the water never gets any lower than the rocks so that the roots are not at risk of drying out.

The rocks help to make sure that the water is distributed evenly among all the plant’s roots.

Change the water in the pot every seven to ten days to avoid the growth of algae. During the winter you may only need to do this every ten to fifteen days.

Remember to use filtered water or rainwater. If you have to use tap water, leave it out in the sun for a day to let the chlorine evaporate before giving it to your plant.

2. Light

Lucky bamboo plants do not need direct light and will do just fine indoors. The leaves will burn if the plant is left under direct light, even for just a few hours.

Just place the plant in an area where it can get four hours of indirect sunlight every day.

In the winter, you can place it where it gets brighter light than normal, because the low temperatures can cause the plant’s leaf tissue to freeze if it does not stay warm enough.

If light is very scarce, you can also support the plant by placing it under a grow light.

3. Humidity

Lucky bamboo grows naturally in humid parts of the world, so it appreciates higher humidity than most plants. The good thing about growing the plant in rocks is that this setup is already quite humid, and provides almost perfect conditions around your humidity-loving plant.

4. Fertilizer

Since the plant already gets most of its nutrients from the rocks and the water in the pot, you rarely need to fertilize it. Feed it three times a year and no more, because too much feeding can do more harm than good.

Use a water-soluble fertilizer so that you can just add it to the plant’s water in the container.

5. Pests

The most commonly observed pests in lucky bamboo plants are mealybugs and spider mites. You can manually remove these pests, or you can use rubbing alcohol to wipe the plant down and kill the pests. If there are any pests on the rocks themselves, remove the rocks from the pot and clean them with soap. Make sure to wash the soap off properly before putting the rocks back in the pot.

Conclusion

Lucky bamboo plants can grow in soil, water, or even rocks. They are some of the most hardy plants, and need little attention provided they are given optimal growing conditions.

You will need to repot your lucky bamboo if its roots are crowded or if the plant itself is too big for the old pot.

To repot the plant in rocks, place clean rocks in the new pot, up to about a third of the way, and then fill the pot about halfway with filtered water or rainwater. Remove any damaged foliage or roots from the lucky bamboo before placing it in the new pot.

Change the water in the pot every seven to ten days in the summer and every ten to fifteen days during winter. Make sure the plant only gets indirect light, feed it only three times a year, and always keep an eye on the plant to know when it needs repotting again.

Image: istockphoto.com / josh-r

Kalanchoe plants are popular indoor plants, but can also be grown outdoors. These thick-leaved succulents have clusters of tiny, star-shaped flowers that combine to form a large, attractive bloom. Native to Madagascar and tropical Africa, they are considered low-maintenance and have few problems with disease or pests. However, like all plants, these succulents also need to be repotted periodically for optimal growth and health. This article will explain when your kalanchoe needs repotting, and how to do this.

How to repot kalanchoe

1. Ideally, you should repot your kalanchoe in late February or early March before it enters its active growing season and starts to bloom. 
2. Do not water your kalanchoe plant for at least two weeks before repotting so that the soil dries out completely.
3. When you are ready to repot the plant, loosen the roots by turning the plant upside down and tapping the bottom of the pot. Use the palm of your hand to support the root mass at the base  of the stem. Turn the pot back over and lift the plant out of the pot. 
4. Break up the soil and separate it from the root mass.
5. Mix a handful of peat with pro-mix potting soil. This will create a porous mix that easily drains moisture from around the roots, which is what these plants like.
6. Saturate the soil mixture, spread it on a flat surface and allow it to dry slightly. 
7. With a soil testing kit, test the soil’s pH and ensure that it is between 5.8 and 6.3. 
8. The new pot that you choose should be one size larger than the current container. Put some foam packing material in the bottom of the pot to aid aeration and drainage. 
9. Place half an inch of the soil mixture on top of the foam material and put the kalanchoe plant into the pot. There should be at least half an inch between the rim of the pot and the top of the root mass.
10. Finally, fill the spaces under and around the roots with soil. Water the plant and add more soil as required, until the soil level is one-eighth of an inch below the top of the pot. Place the pot in a sunny window where the plant can get at least six hours of sunlight per day. 

When to repot your kalanchoe

You should repot your kalanchoe plant at least every two years to provide it with fresh, new growing medium. This way, the plant’s growth will be better and it will be healthier overall. Even if the plant shows no obvious signs of problems or poor health, you should repot it nevertheless. Transferring the plant to a new potting medium ensures better growth in the years to come. 

If you are purchasing a kalanchoe plant, transfer it to a new container when you bring it home. These plants usually come in small black pots that absorb heat and are too small to provide enough growing space. Ideally, use clay or terracotta pots, and each time you buy new succulents transfer them to new containers within two weeks. 

If you notice signs of root rot in your plant, you will need to repot it as soon as possible. This will happen if you have been overwatering the plant, or if the soil or pot have inadequate drainage for excess water to escape. You will need to trim off the dead or damaged roots before transferring the plant to a new, sterile pot, using fresh, well-draining potting mix. 

If the potting mix starts to dry out very easily, this is another reason to repot your plant, using fresh potting medium. Although these plants prefer soil with good drainage, the soil still needs to retain moisture long enough for the roots to absorb it. The fresh medium should be a mix of perlite and soil at a 1:1 ratio for better drainage. 

You should also repot your succulents if they have become root-bound.  This happens when the roots have grown to the point that the pot is too small for them and they are cramped and becoming entangled. If the container no longer has sufficient space for the growing roots to spread, you need to transfer the plant to a bigger pot so that the roots can grow properly. 

Benefits of repotting your kalanchoe: 

• The plants will have improved health. 
• You will refresh the potting medium and get rid of the old, depleted medium. 
• You can trim off decayed or damaged roots. 

Conclusion 

Kalanchoe plants are grown both indoors and outdoors, and are popular for their star-shaped flowers and dark, glossy leaves. These succulents are easy to grow and suffer very few disease or pest problems. However, you still need to repot them periodically for optimal growth and to avoid them becoming rootbound. 

To do this, transfer the plant to a pot one size larger than its current container. Inspect the roots while the plant is out of the pot, and remove any dead or dying roots. Use fresh, pro-mix potting soil mixed with peat, water the newly-repotted plant, and place it near a window where it can get sunlight for at least six hours a day. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Valeriy_G

Pilea plants,  with the botanical name Pilea peperomioides and also known as Chinese money plants, are popular housewarming gifts and ideal for beginner plant growers. These perennial evergreen succulents are native to the Yunnan province of China, and are renowned for their bright green, coin-shaped leaves. They make relatively hardy and low-maintenance houseplants, but they will still need periodic repotting to stay healthy and grow well. This article will help you understand more about when and how to repot your Pilea. 

How to repot a Pilea plant

1. Prepare the new pot.

Prepare a new pot to which you will transfer your plant. Select a pot one size larger than the previous container, so that there is more space for the roots to grow. If the previous pot has a diameter of four inches, the new pots should be at least six inches in diameter. Terracotta pots are ideal for these plants, and you should soak the pot ahead of time so that it does not dry out the new potting soil. 

2. Put a base layer of soil into the pot. 

Before removing the plant from its current pot, put a base layer of fresh soil into the new pot. Do not add too much soil since, or the plant will not have space to fit. Opt for well-draining soil; you can also make your mixture by combining peat moss with a small amount of perlite, which is ideal for aeration and drainage. 

3. Give the plant a light watering in its current pot.

Before you remove the plant from its current pot, give it a light watering. This helps to keep the root ball together as you switch pots. Do not overwater the plant, however, to avoid unnecessary mess.

4. Remove the plant and trim the root ball. 

Use a trowel to remove the plant, being extra careful not to damage the roots. Prune the root ball before repotting the plant. This will get rid of some of the damaged roots, if any, and encourage new root growth once the roots are in the new pots. 

5. Repot the Pilea. 

Place the plant in its new pot and add more soil to fill in the spaces around it. Pat down the soil so it surrounds the plant well, but do not compact it. Give the plant a light watering but do not overwater it. 

Why should you repot your Pilea?

To give the plants room to grow. 

When Pilea plants grow taller and full, the root systems tend to grow beneath the soil’s surface.  By repotting them, you are giving them the space to grow.

It refreshes the soil.  

Potting soils are fortified with nutrients but they become depleted as time goes by. The soil may also become compacted over the years so it is best to repot them.

To prevent the plants from tipping over.  

Your Pilea plants will start to become top-heavy as they grow and may tip over. You should repot the plants at least every two years. Replanting the Pilea plants into larger pots with a heavier base prevents the plants from tipping over. 

To correct the ratio of soil to root in the pots. 

Pilea plants need to be repotted since if they are in the same pots for a long period they become more root than soil. Without enough soil, the plants will constantly dry out and have to be watered more often. 

When should you repot Pilea plants? 

You should repot your Pilea during the early spring, just before it enters the growing season, which is when it is in an active state of growth. If the roots are crowded in their current pot, growing becomes a challenge and may cause unnecessary stress to the plant. Although it is acceptable to repot the plant at any time during the year, stick to early spring for the best results. 

How often should you repot Pilea plants?

Repot these plants at least every two years. They do not have complex root systems, which means it is okay for them to stay in the same pot for at least two years. However, repot them sooner if you see roots growing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Also repot earlier if you notice any of the abovementioned signs that the plant needs repotting. 

Conclusion 

Pilea plants are appealing indoor succulents with bright green, coin-shaped leaves, and are native to the Yunnan province of China. While they are generally low-maintenance, you will still need to repot them at least every two years to refresh their soil and give their roots room to grow. To repot these plants, prepare new pots that are larger than the current ones and give the plants a light watering before beginning the process. Remove the plants from their current pots, trim the root balls, repot them in the new pots with fresh potting mix, and provide light watering to keep them hydrated while they recover.

Image: istockphoto.com / cerro_photography

The ZZ plant, or Zamioculcas zamiifolia, is native to some of the driest places on the African continent. It is a popular houseplant that has beautiful, dark green leaves and can tolerate both drought and low-light conditions. Because it typically only grows to three feet tall at the most, it makes a great indoor and even office plant.

ZZ plants do not like to be rootbound, so even though they do not grow into large plants, you still need to be aware of their need to be repotted periodically to avoid any rootbound issues.

Repotting the plant can also keep it healthy and happy by providing it with fresh soil and the space that the roots need to grow freely.

In this article, we will discuss more about how to repot a ZZ plant, why repotting is important, and when to do it.

If you are thinking about repotting your ZZ plant and want to learn more about the process, just keep reading.

Rootbound ZZ plant

ZZ plants do not like being rootbound because the resultant confined space keeps their roots from being able to grow properly and affects their overall growth.

As the plant matures and grows bigger, it will naturally develop more and bigger roots, causing the soil in the pot to become displaced until the inside of the pot holds more roots than soil. The roots will also start to become tangled in the pot and, due to both entanglement and lack of soil, the plant will be unable to absorb the water and nutrients it needs to survive.

When the root mass is left to become even bigger and more entwined, it will also become difficult for water to drain through the roots, and this could lead to root rot. Root rot happens when the water in the pot is unable to properly drain from the soil or the roots, leaving the plant standing in stagnant water for long periods. Because the roots do not get the chance to dry out completely, they will drown and die. The dead roots will become more susceptible to opportunistic fungi or bacteria, which will then cause the rot to become more aggressive. The rot will travel from the roots to the stems and leaves, until the entire plant is affected.

Another downside to a rootbound plant is dehydration. This happens when the pot contains mostly roots and very little soil. Soil helps to retain water, so if there is no soil, no water is retained and the plant quickly becomes thirsty and dehydrated. Because of the lack of soil, the plant is also deprived of essential nutrients.

If you have not been vigilant of the state of your ZZ plant, you will start to notice signs that it is rootbound, such as the yellowing, browning and wilting of its foliage. If you see any of these signs, try to remember when you last repotted your plant and consider the possibility of it being rootbound.

How can I tell if my ZZ plant needs to be repotted?

For beginner gardeners or plant collectors, spotting a rootbound ZZ plant can be difficult. To make sure the plant really is rootbound, you will need to look at the parts of the plant above the soil as well as those under the soil.

Look at the plant’s leaves. A healthy ZZ plant has waxy, dark green leaves. A rootbound plant will have yellow or brown leaves.

The growth of a rootbound ZZ plant is also slow or even stunted. Look at the soil at the base of the plant. In a rootbound plant, the roots will become visible above the soil because there is no space in the pot. Roots will also start to grow out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, for the same reason.

The plant will look dehydrated, and you will notice that the soil dries out very quickly after watering.

The plant’s pot may even crack because of the massive root ball inside.

Check the plant’s roots by laying the pot down on one side and using an old knife to loosen the soil from the sides of the pot. Once the soil is loose, you can pull the plant out with ease. If, even after loosening the soil from the pot, the plant refuses to budge, you might have to break the pot. Do what you need to so that the entire plant can be removed intact with as little damage to the roots as possible.

Once the entire root mass is exposed, you can examine it closely and determine the severity of the situation.

The plant is only slightly rootbound if the roots have only just started wrapping themselves around the root ball.

The plant is moderately rootbound when there are mats forming around the root ball.

The plant is severely rootbound when the mats around the root ball have become solid and there is very little soil left inside the pot.

A slightly rootbound plant can be returned to the same pot and repotted after another year, but a moderately or severely rootbound plant will need to be repotted in a larger pot.

When is the best time to repot a ZZ plant?

ZZ plants do not grow especially fast, but they are not considered slow growers either. They only need to be repotted every two to three years. If you are providing perfect cultural care for your plant, it will grow faster and will likely need to be repotted a bit more often.

Repotting is best done during early spring to early summer, because this is when the plant is just starting to grow actively. Remember that repotting is a stressful experience for a plant, so you will want it to be at its healthiest when repotting so that it can recover quickly. Avoid repotting the plant during the winter, because it is dormant and will not be able to recover as fast.

What pot and soil is best for ZZ plants?

When repotting a ZZ plant, you will need to replace the old soil with fresh soil that is appropriate for a recovering rootbound plant. Choosing the right size pot is also vital, because this can greatly affect the plant’s growth and health. Measure the old pot and make sure the new pot is two inches larger in diameter than the old one.

It may be tempting to purchase a pot that is more than one size larger than the old pot, but this will actually cause more harm than good. A larger pot means more soil is needed to fill the pot, and more soil means more water is retained around the plant’s roots. As we previously established, when the roots are left to sit in soggy soil for long periods of time, they are more prone to overwatering and root rot.

When choosing the potting medium for your ZZ plant, choose a mix that is able to retain water but also drains excess water effortlessly.

You can make your own potting mix by combining one part regular potting soil, one part perlite, one part succulent soil and some compost.

How to save a rootbound ZZ plant

If you have confirmed that your ZZ plant is indeed rootbound, you can either transfer the plant to a larger pot or you can divide it into several smaller ZZ plants.

One thing you need to be aware of when handling ZZ plants is that they produce calcium oxalate, which is a chemical they use to protect themselves. The calcium oxalate crystals are small and sharp and can cause a painful rash and irritation if you come into contact with them. Adults may not be severely affected by the chemical, but try to keep animals and small children away from the plant as they are at higher risk of being negatively affected.

It is best to wear gloves and a face mask when handling the plant, just to be safe.

How to repot a ZZ plant

Repotting a ZZ plant is one way to resolve its rootbound issue. When the plant is transferred to a bigger pot with new soil, the roots will have more space to grow into and more nutrients at their disposal.

If you have a new pot and fresh potting mix ready, you can proceed with repotting the plant.

The night before, water your plant thoroughly so that the plant is well-hydrated and the soil is loose. This simple step will make the repotting process even smoother.

The next day, take the plant to an area where you can make a mess. Lay the pot to one side and pull the plant out of the pot. If you struggle to get it loose, run an old knife between the soil and the edges of the pot to help loosen it.

Once you have successfully removed the plant, try to remove as much of the old soil from the root mass as you can. Remember to be gentle and cause the least possible damage to the roots.

After cleaning off the old soil, inspect the roots for any brown or black roots in the root mass. Remove these discolored and damaged roots using a sterilized knife or scissors. Also remove any brown or damaged leaves and stems.

Prepare the new pot by filling it to about a third of the way up with the fresh potting mix.

Place the plant in the new pot and fill in the gaps with more soil. Do not pack the soil, as you do not want it to become compact.

Place the plant in a spot where it can get plenty of bright, indirect light, water it, and you are done.

To avoid the plant becoming rootbound again, make sure you always look out for signs that point to this problem.

How to divide a rootbound ZZ plant

Another option to remedy a rootbound ZZ plant is to divide the plant into smaller plants. This saves the plant while also propagating it.

As with repotting, water the plant the night before you plan to divide it.

The next day, lay the plant’s pot on one side and gently slide the plant out of the pot.

To divide the plant, use a sterilized knife. Take note of the root bulbs and make sure each section has at least half a bulb.

Prepare the necessary number of new pots,place each section in a new pot and fill it with soil. 

Water all the new plants and place them where they can get bright, indirect light.

After several weeks, the new plants should be displaying new growth.

Conclusion

ZZ plants are drought- and low-light-tolerant plants that do well in most living conditions. Because they seem like such independent plants, it might be easy to forget to keep an eye on when they need repotting. 

ZZ plants typically need to be repotted every two to three years, but the only way to know for sure is by checking the plant’s roots. If the roots are starting to grow above the soil or out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, you need to remove the plant from its pot and inspect the roots.

If you are sure that the plant is rootbound, you need to either repot it in a pot one size larger than the old one, using fresh, well-draining soil, or you can divide the plant into several sections and plant each section in its own pot, which is essentially propagating your ZZ plant.

If you are able to repot or divide the plant correctly, you should see new growth in a matter of weeks.

Image: istockphoto.com / CCeliaPhoto

The bamboo plant is one of the easiest plants to care for in your garden, because it requires very little care and maintenance and also grows very fast.

One of the most common issues faced by bamboo owners is the speed at which the plant grows and the frequent need to repot it. You will know you need to repot your bamboo if the rhizomes have become so thick and chunky that when you water the plant, the water just runs off the top of the rhizome and does not penetrate the soil. The roots under the soil will therefore not have access to water, and this could cause serious consequences for the plant.

Repot your plant when the pot has become too small for the plant. This typically happens every one to two years. If you can see roots growing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, that means that the bamboo needs to be moved to a larger pot.

In this article, we will discuss more about the reasons you need to repot your bamboo plant, when to repot it, and how to do this.

If you have a bamboo plant that needs repotting, then keep reading to learn more about the process.

Why do you need to repot a bamboo plant?

A useful point to keep in mind is that in the wild, bamboo grows outward without the restrictions of a pot. Its roots and rhizomes have unlimited space in the soil around them to grow larger with no resistance. But, if you are growing bamboo in a pot, the plant will very quickly run out of space to grow. The roots will be affected in multiple ways when confined to a small pot, such as having difficulty getting the water they need to survive when there are more roots than soil in the pot.

The rhizomes can become so chunky that, when you water the plant, the water just splashes off the rhizome without even reaching the soil in the pot. No matter how much water you give the plant,none of it will reach the soil, leaving the bamboo plant underwatered.

You will know your bamboo is underwatered when the plant is unable to produce new leaves, and the few leaves that it does produce are noticeably smaller than normal.

To provide enough, but not too much, water for your plant, it is important to be able to tell when it actually needs watering. You can check this by touching the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the soil is dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

You can also tell whether the plant is rootbound by sticking your finger into the soil. If you struggle to get your finger into the soil, chances are that the roots have overtaken the soil in the pot.

When should I repot my bamboo plant?

There is no specific time of year to repot your bamboo. As long as the plant is healthy, you can repot it anytime.

If the plant is in a smaller pot, you will probably need to repot it once a year or every two years. When the rhizomes appear to have filled almost the entire pot, it is time to repot it.

If you are wondering whether the plant is ready to be repotted, look at the bottom of the pot. If there are roots growing out of the drainage holes, it is definitely time. If there are no roots coming out of the holes, repotting is not as urgent and you can possibly put it off for a month or two.

The best time to repot the bamboo is when the pot is about to fill with roots. This is the case if, when you remove the plant from the pot, the soil and roots hold together. Even if the soil and roots seem to be clumped together, there should not be any knotted roots, because those are bound, which means you are a little late in repotting.

A rootbound plant’s pot will noticeably bulge at the sides because of the limited space inside. If you keep the plant in a plastic pot, this will be even more obvious because of the plastic’s flexibility. The thick rhizomes are what push on the sides of the pot as the plant grows. The longer you keep the plant in a pot that is too small, the tighter the roots will become and the harder it will be to remove it from the pot.

If you planted your bamboo in a ceramic pot, the pot may simply shatter one day, without you having a clue that it was about to happen.

If your plant is severely rootbound, transferring it to a new pot will not be enough. You will need to untangle the roots and remove any dead and dying roots in order to make sure that it recovers. If this is the case, it is advisable to repot the plant when it is dormant, during the last weeks of fall and winter. This is so the plant is not actively growing and will not be as sensitive to the damage incurred by untangling its roots.

How to repot a bamboo plant

When repotting your bamboo plant, the first step is done the night before you plan on repotting. Make sure the plant is watered the night before and that the soil in the pot is sufficiently wet. The recent watering will also keep the plant happy as you perform the repotting procedure. Make sure that any excess water drains properly after watering.

Also ascertain before you start, whether you plan to transfer the whole plant to a bigger container, or whether you want to divide a rootbound bamboo plant into several plants.

If you are only planning to transfer the plant to a new container, it is fine if the soil and the roots in the pot are holding together as you pull it out. Do not worry about any old soil falling off the roots as you lift it out of the pot; you will be replacing it with new soil anyway.

If the plant is completely healthy and the roots are not tangled or bound, just transfer it to a pot that is one or two sizes larger than the old pot. Use a skewer or a stick to loosen the roots a bit and to remove any hardened soil. This will help the roots adapt more easily to their new soil.

Next, fill the pot with fresh potting soil and some good-quality organic compost. You can use mushroom compost or horse manure. Remember not to pack the soil, so that it stays loose and aerated. 

What if I am planning to divide and repot my bamboo plant?

If your bamboo plant is very rootbound, you will need to cut back the rhizomes so that the root ball can breathe.

Use a saw to cut off the bottom portion of the root mass. You can throw this bottom part away. With what is left of the root mass, move pieces gently to see where natural sections can be pulled apart from the mass. If you need to use the saw to separate the sections, do so.

Despite the sawing, try to keep the culms and roots intact, but if there are any root parts that are unhealthy or look old, it is better to remove and discard those as well.

Once you have the sections separated, place them in their own pots. Choose pots that are two or three sizes larger than what is appropriate for the plant, and fill the pots with potting soil and compost.

Because these divided cuttings have been through a more traumatic and rigorous process than an ordinary repotting, they will need more attention. Make sure you keep them from the cold during winter and never forget to give them water and shade as needed.

If you divided and repotted successfully, you should see new shoots by the time spring comes around.

Conclusion

Bamboo plants need to be repotted when their rhizomes have become so big that they are warping the old pot. The roots will also start to grow out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

There is no specific time of year to transplant a bamboo plant that has outgrown its old pot. As long as the plant is healthy, go ahead and transfer the plant to a new pot.

If the plant is severely rootbound, dividing and repotting is best done during fall or winter, when the plant is dormant.

Repot the bamboo by removing it from the old pot and shaking off the old soil. Remove any dead or dying roots before placing it in a new pot that is one or two sizes larger than the old one. Fill the new pot with new potting soil and some compost.

Remember that most bamboo plants need repotting every one or two years.

Image: istockphoto.com / doji1989

Many popular species of orchids are epiphytic plants, meaning that they grow on the trunks of trees in their natural habitat. They do not need traditional potting soil, because their roots are able to absorb moisture and nutrients from the air around them. The roots that grow from higher-up on the stem and not into the potting medium are called air roots, or aerial roots.

Although the number of air roots present on the plant is not an indication that the orchid needs repotting, it is still important to know how to properly repot an orchid that has air roots. It is imperative that no air roots are damaged during repotting, because this can affect the entire plant.

In this article, we will discuss the proper way to repot an orchid with multiple air roots, as well as some tips to ensure the process is successful. So, if you are thinking about repotting your orchid, keep reading to learn how.

Why are air roots important for orchids?

The natural habitat of most orchids is the rainforest. They live high up on the trunks of trees, their roots wrapping around the trunk to anchor themselves against the wind. They can also grow on rocks and smaller shrubs. Apart from the roots that anchor the plant, orchids also grow air roots. The anchoring roots can also absorb moisture and nutrients, but sometimes the orchid needs more, so it produces air roots that grow from higher up on the stem. These roots absorb moisture and nutrients from the rain and the air around them.

A common mistake beginner orchid owners make is cutting off the air roots because they do not like the way they make the plant look. This is a big no-no, because you are literally cutting off the plant’s lifeline. This could even cause your orchid to die.

The only reasonable situation where it makes sense to cut off an orchid’s air roots is if these roots are severely damaged or dead. The dead roots may be rotten, in which case they should be removed as soon as possible before the rot spreads to the rest of the plant. Use a sterilized knife or pruning shears to do this. Perfectly healthy air roots, however, should be left alone because your plant grew them for a reason.

Why is my orchid growing a lot of air roots?

One reason your orchid may be growing lots of air roots is if the roots that are buried in the potting medium are no longer absorbing sufficient nutrients and water because they are unhealthy. Growing air roots is the plant’s way of making up for the compromised roots in the potting medium.

Another reason your orchid is growing more air roots is that it does not feel properly secured to whatever it is attached to. The plant wants to feel stable, especially when it starts to bloom, because the weight of the flowers can make the entire plant lean to one side. The plant will sprout more air roots to balance itself so that it does not fall off the tree.

Should I bury all of my orchid’s roots in the potting medium?

No, you should not bury all of the orchid’s roots in the potting medium, because they serve different purposes for the plant, as stated above. If you bury all of the plant’s roots and if they all become rotten, the entire plant will be affected and is likely to die. Furthermore, air roots are not designed to be watered like the roots in the potting medium. They are more accustomed to absorbing moisture from the air and providing for the plant that way.

Buried orchid roots are more prone to rot because there is less air circulating in the potting medium and they are subjected to moist conditions on a regular basis.

How to repot orchids with air roots

There are some noticeable differences between the process of repotting an orchid and that of repotting other plants, but it is actually not that complicated, provided you follow certain specific requirements.

First, remove the orchid from its old spot. Be gentle to ensure you do not damage any of the roots in the pot or any of the air roots.

If, despite being careful, there are still some roots that get damaged, do not worry too much. This does happen, but do try nevertheless to keep damage to a minimum.

Remove as much of the old potting medium as you can from the roots and the pot. Discard the old potting medium, because it is not reusable. Gently remove the potting medium from between the roots with your fingers. You can also shake the roots so that the potting medium falls away.

Next, soak the plant’s roots in tepid water for 10 to 15 minutes. Soaking the roots in water will make the air roots more flexible and manageable. The water will also help to remove any small pieces of potting medium left on the roots that you were unable to remove previously.

Make sure that, while you are soaking the orchid, no water gets into the stem. This is important because letting water stagnate around the stem can cause rot. If you accidentally get water into the stem, make sure you dry it immediately with a paper towel.

By this time, the roots will be much easier to inspect, because most, if not all, are free of the old potting medium. If there are any brown or black and mushy roots, you will need to remove them using a sterilized knife or pruning shears. Remove any roots that look dead and dried out as well. The more green roots are left, the better the condition of the plant even before you decided to repot it. 

However, if most of the roots were mushy, brown or black, that means you have been doing something wrong in terms of the potting or watering of your orchid, and you will need to correct this going forward. Simply put, black and mushy roots are usually due to overwatering, while brown and dried roots mean that you have been underwatering the plant.

Once you have cleared off all of the dead and dying roots and are left with only healthy green ones, you can sterilize the remaining roots with 3% hydrogen peroxide. This is to kill any bacteria or fungi that may be on the surface of the roots. Do not use a stronger concentration of peroxide, because it might end up doing more damage than good to the plant.

After the orchid has been sterilized, it is time to repot it. If it still fits in the old pot, you can reuse this, but make sure you clean and sterilize it first.

If you are using a new pot, make sure that it has drainage holes and is only one to two sizes larger than the old pot. Using a pot that is far too large for the orchid is not good for it. More space in the pot means more potting medium is needed to make it snug, and more potting medium means more moisture is retained. This makes the plant more prone to overwatering and therefore root rot. If you can find them, clear pots are great for orchids, since they will give you a better view of the roots and you will always be aware of their state of health.

After choosing a pot, you now need to fill it with a potting medium. Start by positioning the plant in the middle of the pot. The air roots should not be buried in the potting medium because this is not what they were designed for. They should be allowed to simply grow out of the plant’s stem and remain exposed to the air. Air roots can rot when kept under the potting medium.

With the plant held in the middle of the pot, fill the spaces between the roots with potting medium and make sure the potting medium is snug but not tight or dense.

Use a potting mix that is made specifically for orchids. These mixes usually include coconut fiber, lava rocks, clay pellets, sphagnum moss and orchid bark.

Lastly, water the potting medium after repotting. Some people advise against watering the plant after repotting; either way is fine as long as the potting medium is well-draining and the pot has drainage holes.

Can I use potting soil for my orchid?

No, regular potting soil is way too dense for orchids. Because orchids are epiphytic, they like plenty of air circulating around their roots. Potting soil will end up suffocating the roots and kill the plant. Regular potting soil also holds onto water a lot longer than the orchid would like. Orchids want a potting mix that drains quickly, retaining only a little moisture for the roots. Basically, orchid potting mix does not work the same way as regular potting soil. Orchid potting mix is used mainly to hold the plant upright. Ideally, mounting is the best option for orchids, since they are more than capable of absorbing their water and nutrients from the air around them.

Conclusion

Orchids are epiphytic plants that grow naturally on the trunks of trees or on the sides of rocks. They have air roots that gather nutrients and water from the air around them, and these air roots should be handled with care as they play a very important role in the life of your precious orchids.

You will need to repot your orchid when its roots are severely damaged or when they have become crowded in their current pot.

Remove the plant from the old pot and wash off as much of the old potting medium as possible. Remove any brown, black or mushy roots, as these are dying or dead. Soak the roots with water to make them more flexible and easier to manage. Spray the healthy roots with 3% hydrogen peroxide before replanting the orchid in a pot with drainage holes, using a potting mix that is made specially for orchids. Water the plant after repotting it.

Image: istockphoto.com / Supersmario

The Christmas cactus is one of the most recognizable succulents. It gets its name from the fact that it actually blooms during the winter. An important distinction between this and other succulents is that the Christmas cactus appreciates more moisture and humidity than most.

These plants can live for a very long time, which makes them great gifts for loved ones. Their unique-looking foliage is another reason they have become such popular houseplants.

Because these plants are known to survive for decades, caring for one will inevitably include having to repot it.

In this article, we will discuss when a Christmas cactus needs repotting, how often you should do it, the right container and soil to use when repotting it, and the correct process to follow.

So, if you are wondering whether your Christmas cactus does need to be repotted and you want to learn more, keep reading.

Why do you need to repot a Christmas cactus?

Typically, repotting is necessary when the plant has outgrown its current pot.

Yes, as a mature plant, the Christmas cactus is fine with being a little rootbound. A plant becomes rootbound when there is little to no space in the pot for new roots to grow into, so that even the soil is displaced and there is more root than soil left in the pot. The plant is so desperate for space that the roots may even start growing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

A plant is considered slightly rootbound when the roots are only just starting to wrap themselves around the rootball. The problems arise when the plant becomes severely rootbound, which is when the roots have wrapped around the rootball so many times that they have all become one mass of roots.

You can tell that a plant is rootbound when its foliage is turning yellow and starting to droop. You will also notice that the plant’s soil dries out faster than normal. This is because there is very little soil left to actually retain any moisture, so the plant quickly becomes thirsty or dehydrated.

Because the new roots have nowhere to go and there is little soil to provide nutrients, the plant’s growth will slow drastically and may even become completely stunted.

Replacing the old pot with a new one that is a size larger can give the roots the space they need to grow into and become healthy and happy again.

Another reason your Christmas cactus needs repotting is if it has root rot. Root rot can develop when the roots at the very center of the root mass can no longer dry out and are consistently moist. Because they cannot dry out, they will drown and die, and these dead roots will start to rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens. The pathogens will make the rot more aggressive and cause it to spread to the rest of the plant much faster. When you repot your plant, you can check the condition of its roots and remove the rotten parts, which could potentially save the plant’s life.

Repotting your Christmas cactus will also allow you to replace the soil in the pot. Over time, the nutrients in the soil will become depleted because your plant is using them up, or because they get flushed out little by little every time you water the plant. Replacing the plant’s soil while repotting it will replenish all the plant’s much-needed nutrients and minerals.

When and how often does a Christmas cactus need repotting?

Unlike most plants that prefer to be repotted in the spring or summer, the Christmas cactus prefers to be repotted right after it has stopped blooming. The timing of this will depend on your individual plant, since not all Christmas cacti bloom at the same time. Some stop blooming in January, while others can stop blooming as late as March. No matter the date the plant stops blooming, what is most important is only to repot it after it has done so.

When it comes to how often the plant should be repotted, typically a mature Christmas cactus needs repotting every four years. If you do not want to risk making your plant severely rootbound, you can repot it earlier than four years. 

Just remember that you should also not repot it too often, because this can have negative effects, too. Christmas cacti will grow slower than normal if their pot is replaced more often than necessary. Repotting or transplanting is a traumatic and stressful process for any plant, so you need to find the perfect balance for your plant.

As we mentioned, this plant does not mind being slightly rootbound, and will often bloom more in this situation.

Mature plants may like to be repotted every four years, but when the plant is still young and is growing at a more rapid pace, it will need repotting roughly once a year. Do not worry, because this is something you will only have to do until the plant is established and fully grown.

What is the right kind of container for a Christmas cactus?

The most important factor when choosing a new pot for your Christmas cactus is the size. Choose a pot that is one size larger than the old pot, meaning the pot’s diameter is two inches bigger than the old one. It may seem logical and time-saving to simply buy a pot that is five sizes bigger, but this will only have negative effects on the plant. This is because a larger pot will have to be filled in with a lot more soil. More soil in the pot means more water will be retained, which means a greater risk of overwatering the plant and causing root rot.

The material of the pot should also be considered. Refrain from using plastic or steel pots, because these materials are too dense and will not allow the passage of air and water as easily as a pot made of clay. Remember that these plants like their roots to dry out a bit between waterings, and a clay pot can cater to that need. The pot also has to have drainage holes at the bottom because this is where the excess water will flow out if you inadvertently give the plant more water than it needs.

What is the right kind of soil for the Christmas cactus?

The best potting medium for a Christmas cactus is one that is loose and well-draining. The worst kind of potting medium is one that is dense, compact and poorly-draining.

These plants grow under other shrubs and even trees in their natural habitat. They can even grow on rocks, which means they prefer a potting medium that is loose and airy.

In the wild, these plants would utilize nutrients from leaves and other organic matter that fall around them. Thus, a peat-based potting medium is a great choice. Add two parts of that with one part coarse sand or perlite, and that should do just fine. If you do not have a peat-based medium, you can also add coarse sand to regular potting soil.

Another combination you could try is one part regular potting soil, one part cactus or succulent mix, and one part coco coir.

How to repot a Christmas cactus

Repotting a Christmas cactus is quite straightforward, but you will need to be extra gentle and careful when handling one that is rootbound, because the roots will be particularly fragile and prone to damage with any small movement.

Repotting starts with the removal of the plant from its old pot. Lay the pot on one side and slide the plant out by gently pulling on it. If the plant is rootbound, it may stick to the sides of the pot and not slide out so easily. In this case, run an old knife or spatula around the inside of the pot to loosen the soil and roots. If the plant still will not budge from the pot, you may have to break the pot.

Once the plant is out of its pot, remove as much as possible of the old soil from the roots by massaging the root mass gently. You can also wash the soil off with water if it has become too dry and compacted. Expose as much of the roots as possible because you will need to inspect them. If you see any roots that are brown or black and feel soft and mushy, these are rotten. Use a sterilized knife or pair of scissors to remove all the damaged roots, because they may be harboring pathogens that will infect the new soil.

Prepare the new pot by filling it a third of the way with your fresh potting medium. Place the plant’s rootball on top of the soil and start filling around the roots with more soil. Do this until the soil sits just an inch below the rim of the pot. Pat the soil, but do not pack it down – just enough to remove any air pockets. You can also do this by shaking the pot gently.

Water the plant moderately for two weeks so that the roots can recover well and to give it as much moisture as it needs. As usual, do not give the plant more water than it needs because this can lead to overwatering and root rot. You can revert to your usual watering schedule after three weeks.

Place the plant in a spot where it can get some indirect light. Remember that this plant is native to the jungles of Brazil, so it is used to getting lots of shade under the tree canopy. These lighting conditions will also help the plant acclimatize to the new soil and the new pot. You could place it under the shade of a large tree or on a patio where it is under the shade for most of the day.

After repotting the Christmas cactus

After a few weeks, the plant should be fully recovered and you can go back to caring for it like normal.

Knowing how to properly water your plant is the best way to avoid over- or underwatering. You will know it is time to water it by touching the soil in the pot. If the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch, you can water the plant, but if the soil is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

This plant loves moisture more than most cacti and other succulents, so it will appreciate being misted with water every once in a while. 

Do not place the plant under direct sunlight, because this can cause sun damage. The best kind of light for the plant is bright, indirect light.

Keep the plant in a spot where the temperature is around 65 degrees Fahrenheit. If the humidity in your home is low, you can help the plant out by placing it next to other plants that also love humidity so that they can create a microclimate around one another. You can also use a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity around your plant without you having to worry about it.

This plant does not really need to be fertilized, but if you want to help it out, you can give it a water-soluble formula during the spring and summer.

Conclusion

The Christmas cactus is one of the most unique houseplants because of the shape of its leaves and its affinity for humidity and moisture, which is unusual for succulents.

The plant can live for a very long time, so you will have to repot it several times over its lifetime.

You should do this when it has outgrown its old pot or when it has root rot.

The plant is typically repotted once a year when it is still young, but once it has matured, it will only need repotting once every four years.

Repot the plant when it has finished blooming. This can be anytime between January and March. Do not repot while it is in bloom, because this will affect its blooming capabilities.

Repotting starts with removing the plant from its old pot. Rinse the old soil from the roots so you can inspect them closely and remove any damaged roots using a sterilized knife or scissors. Place new soil in the new pot, which should be only one size larger than the old one, and position the plant in it. Cover the roots with the new soil and water the plant.

You can now care for the plant as you would normally.

Image: istockphoto.com / AllaR15

The Venus fly trap is quickly becoming one of the most popular houseplants, not just among carnivorous plant hobbyists but also among the general plant-collecting population. They are very interesting plants with a unique appearance and the ability to consume insects for their nutrients.

These plants have a reputation for being finicky, but if you are able to provide their specific preferred living conditions, they will have no problem growing in a pot. One of these conditions is that they should be repotted when they grow too big for their pot. 

In this article, we will discuss the appropriate time to repot your Venus fly trap, what pot and soil to use, and the correct process to follow. If you have a Venus fly trap and are thinking about repotting it, then keep reading to learn more.

When is the best time to repot a Venus fly trap?

Typically, the Venus fly trap needs repotting once a year so that its potting medium can be replaced. This is because the potting medium tends to become dense and compacted over time, making it difficult for the plant to produce new roots since they will be unable to penetrate the tough soil.

There is no strictly-prescribed time of year to repot your plant. If you feel that it needs to be repotted, go ahead and do so; the plant’s well-being is always most important. However, if you can wait it out, it is definitely more advisable to repot a Venus fly trap in the spring or summer, because this is when the plant is actively growing.

Repotting is a stressful and traumatic process for plants, so doing it when they are actively growing means they will recover much faster. This does not mean that the plant will not recover if it is repotted during the fall or winter, but its recovery will definitely not be as quick as if it had been repotted during the growing period.

One instance when repotting may be necessary as soon as possible is when you have recently purchased your plant from the store. The storekeepers may have been giving the plant water with a high mineral content, and these minerals can build up in the soil to the detriment of the plant. In fact, the best thing to do, if you can, is to collect rainwater and use it not only for your Venus fly trap, but all your other plants as well. If rain is scarce, use filtered or distilled water instead. The potting medium that the store provided for the Venus fly trap may also be the wrong kind, so check that too, in case you need to change it.

What is the right container for my Venus fly trap?

You might be wondering why Venus fly traps need to be repotted once a year when the actual plant hardly grows at all. Well, you need to remember that the parts of the plant above the soil comprise only half of the entire plant. The roots aso need space to grow into, so even if the plant does not look like it has grown much over the past year, the roots may have doubled in size without you knowing. Venus fly trap roots tend to grow deep instead of wide, so you will need a pot that is at least four inches deep. The Venus fly trap has rhizomes on its roots that must never sit in waterlogged soil, so if the pot is deep enough, the water will travel to the lower half of the pot and leave the rhizomes relatively dry and rot-free.

In terms of the pot’s width, just make sure the sides of the pot are at least two inches away from the rhizomes so that the latter can be properly insulated by the potting medium and not exposed directly to environmental changes in temperature.

What is the right potting medium for my Venus fly trap?

Making sure you choose the right potting medium is important when growing a Venus fly trap. These plants are used to acidic soil that is low in nutrients. Using regular potting soil can literally burn the plant. Prepare a suitable potting mix by combining one part perlite with one part peat moss. The perlite will retain just enough moisture for the plant’s preference, while the peat moss will keep the potting medium acidic.

How to repot a Venus fly trap

Before you remove the plant from its old pot, prepare the new pot. Place the perlite and peat moss potting medium in the new pot and moisten it with filtered water or rainwater.

Using your finger, create a hole in the middle of the potting medium. This will be where you place the plant later.

Now, carefully and gently remove the plant from the old pot. Handle the root mass with care and be mindful of the trap itself. Minimal damage to the plant is key. Do not trigger the plant’s trap because this will cause it to expend energy unnecessarily.

Once you have removed the plant from the pot, gently shake off as much of the old potting medium from the roots as you can. If there are multiple plants growing, you can separate them and plant each one in its own pot.

Place the plant in the new pot and cover the roots with more potting medium until all the roots are covered.

Lastly, water the potting medium thoroughly until you can see the excess water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Conclusion

Venus fly traps are one of the most fascinating houseplants to own. They have a reputation for being fussy, but as long as you give them the specific care they need, they will grow happily.

Repot your plant when its roots are overcrowded or when the soil has become compacted. This is typically about once a year.

Repot the plant by transferring it from its old pot to a new one at least four inches deep, and large enough that the edges of the pot are two inches away from the plant’s rhizomes. Make a suitable potting medium by mixing one part peat moss and one part perlite.

Water the plant generously after repotting, and you can then continue caring for it as normal. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Bogdan Lazar

Portulacaria afra plants are also called elephant bush, dwarf jade plant, spekboom and purslane tree. They have fleshy, glossy leaves and thick, woody stems, and they thrive in warm, draft-free areas with bright light. These perennial succulent shrubs are native to South Africa and can grow from six to 20 feet tall. Elephants are fond of eating these shrubs, hence the nickname, elephant bush. Despite being hardy and low-maintenance, they still have certain requirements in order to thrive, and there are some conditions that could cause their leaves to wrinkle. In this article, we will discuss what causes a portulacaria’s leaves to wrinkle, and how to remedy the problem. 

Wrinkled portulacaria afra leaves – Causes and fix 

1. Underwatering 

Portulacaria afra is a drought-tolerant plant, but if it is not watered for too long, its leaves become shriveled and wrinkled. This means that the water stores in the leaves have been depleted, causing the cells to shrink and giving the leaves their shriveled appearance. The shriveled foliage will be dull and will fall off easily. This is often observed when underwatering is combined with exposure to bright, direct sunlight for several hours daily, or if your area has a particularly hot and dry climate. 

Solution:

If it has been a while since you watered your plant, check the moisture level of the top few inches of soil. If it feels bone dry, your plants are underwatered and should be given a thorough soak as soon as possible. Water the plant until water trickles out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, so that you know the water has reached all of the roots. 

You can also water the plant from the bottom by placing the whole pot in a tub of water, so that water can be soaked up through the drainage hole for at least 30 minutes. Once the top of the soil feels damp, remove the plant from the water and let the excess water drain. This method is effective for severely dehydrated plants, and they can recover in a matter of days. 

You can also check out our earlier article on underwatered succulents for more details on this topic. 

2. Overwatering 

If you water your elephant bush too frequently, it could end up overwatered, which can cause root rot and death of the plant. This situation becomes aggravated in low light conditions and when the temperature is cooler. Other signs that indicate an overwatered plant are yellow, translucent leaves and brown and mushy stems. The leaves may also fall off easily and the soil will be soggy.

Solution:

Water the plants once every two weeks, and only if the top one or two inches of soil are completely dry. Water less during winter or in a low light environment, since in these conditions the soil takes longer to dry out. 

If the overwatering has gone on for some time, you may need to remove the affected plant from its pot and wash the soil off the roots to inspect them more closely for rot. Remove any dark brown or black roots that are rotten and mushy. Wash the scissors after use to avoid the spread of rot to other plants. Clean the pot with soap and warm water and fill it with fresh potting soil. Add gravel or perlite to increase the drainage and prevent water retention. Try to use terracotta pots and ensure that they have drainage holes. 

Trim off any damaged leaves and plant the elephant bush in the fresh soil. Place it in a location where there is good air flow and bright sun to help the soil dry out fast enough after watering. Reduce your watering going forward, and always make sure the top few inches of soil are dry before you water the plant again. 

Check out our earlier article on signs of overwatering succulents for a more detailed discussion about overwatering.

3. Too much sunlight

Wrinkled elephant bush leaves could also be due to overexposure to sunlight. Brown spots may appear on the leaves and the plant may also suffer from sunburn. This usually happens if your plant is placed outdoors during summer and exposed to bright light for too many hours per day. 

Solution:

Move the plant to areas where there is bright but indirect light. Avoid exposing it to the harsh afternoon sun during summer. 

Your Portulacaria afra should be properly watered to allow it to flourish and grow healthily. The frequency of watering will depend on factors such as your local climate and weather conditions, the season of the year, the pot size and soil type, and the humidity and ventilation around the plant. Ideally, it should be watered every one to two weeks in summer and every three to four weeks during winter. 

Check the top few inches of soil before you water the plant to ascertain whether it really does need watering. If so, soak the plant until water pours out of the drainage holes. Never let the roots sit in stagnant water or soggy soil and allow the top of the soil to dry completely before watering the plant again. 

Succulents like elephant bush plants prefer to be infrequently soaked. Do not mist them or allow their leaves to stay wet, as this could cause root rot. Select a well-draining succulent soil mix and add gravel or perlite for optimal drainage.

Conclusion 

Portulacaria afra plants are also called elephant bush or dwarf jade plants, and are popular as houseplants. They are native to South Africa and thrive in hot, desert-like areas. These plants may develop wrinkled leaves due to underwatering, overwatering or too much sunlight. To correct this problem, you need to give them a good soak until water trickles from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, and move them to an area with less direct sunlight if the cause of the wrinkling was overexposure to sunlight. 

Water the plants every one to two weeks during summer and every three to four weeks during winter. 

Image: istockphoto.com / soniabonet

Fiddle leaf figs, with the botanical name Ficus lyrata,  are native to Western and Central Africa. They belong to the mulberry and fig family, Moraceae, and can grow six feet or more in height. They are popular houseplants, despite being quite sensitive to environmental changes. These plants can take some time to adjust to a new home or new indoor conditions, and like most plants, are also prone to the effects of underwatering if their needs are neglected for too long. 

Underwatered fiddle leaf fig – Signs and how to revive 

Signs of an underwatered fiddle leaf fig 

A common sign of underwatering in these plants is curled leaves. You will notice brown spots on the edges of leaves and other parts, from top to bottom. Some of the leaves may appear healthy, but there may be a noticeable leaf drop, with leaves dropping from any part of the plant. The plant’s soil will be dry and hard, and may be shrinking and receding from the edge of the pot. 

How to revive an underwatered fiddle leaf fig 

To revive your underwatered fiddle leaf fig, you need to water it thoroughly, as soon as possible. Make sure that you give the soil a proper soaking so that all the soil is wet and all of the roots have had access to water. When you see watering flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, you will know that water has penetrated all the soil. 

However, because very dry soil is difficult for water to penetrate, you should also test the soil’s moisture by sticking your finger into the soil to make sure that it has, in fact, all been wet, and that the water has not simply flowed past the soil and out of the pot. If the soil is still dry, repeat the soaking process; you can also poke several holes in the soil with a chopstick or pencil to loosen it and make it more penetrable.

Going forward, water the plant at least once a week or when the top inch of soil is dry to the touch. Stick to a consistent watering schedule. Also prevent dry air by running a humidifier or misting the leaves with water every few days to increase the humidity around the plant.

Here are some other steps you can take if your fiddle leaf fig is drying out or dying: 

1. Leave the brown husks and brown, bare branches on the plant unless they are moldy. These hard covers are protecting the new growth, so do not prune them unnecessarily. New leaves will sprout during the spring. 
2. Do not expect the plant to bounce back easily. These plants are slow growers and they go dormant during winter. It may take a year before your fiddle leaf fig recovers fully. 
3. If the stem is shriveled but still hard and strong, the plant can still recover. Just give it ample time. 
4. Trim the brown outer leaf edges but do not pull off the leaves. 
5. Do not pull off any damaged buds, but keep an eye on these areas since there may be new growth. 
6. Water the plants weekly and make sure that any excess water can drain freely from the bottom of the pot. 
7. Avoid transplanting your plant until you see new growth, even if the pot is tight and roots are visible at the surface. 

Allow the plant to recover gradually and place it in an area where it gets indirect sunlight. Provide a room temperature of 60 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and do not leave the plants outdoors overnight, especially during cold weather. 

 Fiddle leaf fig plant care 

These plants can be tricky to care for. They prefer spots that are directly in front of windows with nothing to obstruct the incoming light. They need to be acclimatized slowly if exposed to sunlight, and will develop sunburn if they get too much sunlight. Exposure should be increased gradually for one to two weeks.  

The larger the plant and the more leaves it has, the more sunlight it will need to maintain the leaves and for new growth. If they are not receiving enough light, the leaves become droopy. During winter, natural light is scarce and the plant should be placed in front of windows, but out of the way of cold air from drafts. If the windows are drafty, place the plant two to three feet away from them.  

Fiddle leaf figs should be watered weekly. Wait until the top two to three inches of soil are dry before giving your plant a thorough watering. To prevent root rot, avoid letting water sit in the drip tray. Water in a circular motion to cover all the areas of the soil, so that the water can reach all the roots. 

Use room-temperature water; hot or frigidly cold water could result in shock, just as when the plant is exposed to extreme temperatures. 

These plants require general maintenance that includes habitual dusting. They have large leaves that need to be dusted regularly. An accumulation of dust particles can make it difficult for the plant to absorb sunlight and perform photosynthesis. If you dust the leaves, the plant will stay in better shape. 

Rotate the plant weekly to ensure that all sides are exposed evenly to light. To grow branches, cut off the topmost point of growth on the plant, which will cause it to stop growing directly upward and start to branch out sideways instead. 

Aerate the soil every couple of months to prevent it from becoming compacted. Compacted soil creates small soil pockets that water never reaches. Insert the aerator into the soil further than the roots, to avoid damaging them. Do this in various spots around the soil to keep the plant healthy. 

Do not overwhelm your plant with too many nutrients; less is always more. Use a slow-release pellet fertilizer in the spring and summer months and mix this into the top layer of the plant’s soil.

Conclusion 

Fiddle leaf figs have broad, shiny, deep green leaves which make them favorites among plant enthusiasts. They are popular indoor plants because they add great aesthetic value to any room, but like most plants, they are prone to the effects of underwatering. Underwatered fiddle leaf figs will have curled leaves, brown spots and dry soil.  

To revive your underwatered plant, soak its soil thoroughly with water to ensure that all of the roots have had access to moisture. Place it where it is not exposed to full sunlight for too long, and be patient as it may take some time to recover. Going forward, commit to a regular watering schedule to avoid further underwatering problems.  

Image: istockphoto.com / AnanR2107

Calathea plants, or prayer plants, have at least a dozen species and belong to the family Marantaceae. They are also called cathedral plants, peacock plants and zebra plants, and are often used to add to the aesthetic of homes and indoor offices. They are native to the Amazon jungles of South America. Like most plants, these tropical beauties need water to survive, and neglecting their needs for too long will see them succumb to the effects of underwatering. Read on to find out how to spot an underwatered calathea, as well as how to remedy the situation. 

Calathea underwatered – Signs and how to revive 

Signs of an underwatered calathea

Underwatered calatheas become droopy and their leaves will turn brown, or even crispy from dehydration. The leaves may also curl. Aside from underwatering, these signs could be seen in leaves subjected to low humidity, air conditioning or too much direct sun. 

How to revive your underwatered calathea plants 

1. Water the plants generously. 

Give the plants a good, thorough soaking, making sure that you can see excess water pouring out of the holes at the pot’s base. This is an indication that water has penetrated all of the soil and that all the roots have had access to moisture. 

2. Adjust your watering schedule appropriately.

Water your calatheas frequently enough that the soil feels moist but never saturated. The frequency of watering will vary according to your local climate and weather conditions, as well as the soil quality and size of the pot. Monitor the soil’s moisture consistently and water the plants just before the soil becomes completely dry. 

3. Keep the plants away from air conditioning drafts. 

Air currents can sap the moisture from your plants’ leaves and cause them to become crispy, so choose a spot for them that is out of the way of these and other warm or cold drafts. 

4. Mist the leaves every three days. 

These are tropical plants native to the jungle, so naturally they enjoy a degree of humidity. Mist their leaves more frequently if your home or your local climate is drier than the plant likes. You can also use a humidifier, or place the pot on a tray filled with water and pebbles, so that the evaporating water increases the humidity around the plant. 

5. Place the plants where they can get bright, indirect light. 

Calatheas that get bright but indirect light are able to maintain their variegated colors while avoiding leaf scorch from sunburn. This level of light will also prevent the leaves from dehydrating too fast under the sun’s heat. 

Avoid watering the plants too lightly, as this only moistens the top layer of the soil. If all of the soil is not penetrated, the roots will not be able to absorb any moisture, which means the plants will start to wilt and droop. Protect the plants from direct sunlight so that the leaves do not become scorched or discolored.

Calathea plant care

Calatheas are easy to care for and can be grown in planters or in the ground. These plants need bright, indirect sunlight to grow well, since these are the conditions of their natural habitat, which is the floor of jungles and forests. Direct sunlight could scorch their leaves and they could lose their vibrant colors.

When watering calatheas, use distilled or purified water. They prefer moist but not soggy soil; too much water could drown their roots, so water them  moderately.

Calatheas do not like cold temperatures, because they are tropical plants. They prefer temperatures of 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures outside of this range could cause damage such as curling leaves. These plants prefer humid areas, and are able to absorb moisture from the air via their wide leaves. 

Calatheas only need small amounts of fertilizer. Ideally, this should be a standard fertilizer applied during spring, summer and fall, which are the growth and flowering periods. 

These plants do not require much pruning, other than the removal of dead or discolored leaves.

Some calathea plant species:

• Calathea ornata
• Calathea roseopicta 
• Calathea lancifolia 
• Calathea rufibarba 
• Calathea orbifolia 
• Calathea makoyana

Calatheas can be slightly picky when it comes to their care and cultivation. You will need to maintain your indoor humidity and air temperature at the right levels. This will ensure beautiful, lush green plants that can brighten up homes, offices, lobbies, meeting rooms and any other indoor spaces.  

Conclusion 

Calatheas are popular indoor houseplants because of their unique, attractive foliage and the fact that they are low-maintenance. Nevertheless, they are prone to the effects of underwatering, common signs of which include curling leaves, droopy leaves, and discolored or crispy leaves. To revive your plants, water them thoroughly until water pours from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Keep them away from drafts and direct sunlight, and mist their leaves regularly. 

Image: istockphoto.com / MilaDrumeva

Bonsai is a set of practices used to shape a tree artistically. Specifically, Japanese bonsai attempts to produce pot- or container-grown miniature trees that imitate the shape and structure of real-size trees. Common tree types used for bonsai are ficus, cherry blossom, redwood, juniper and boxwood. Like any other plant, your bonsai is susceptible to the effects of underwatering if its cultural needs are not met. 

Underwatered bonsai tree – Signs and how to revive

Signs of an underwatered bonsai tree

Underwatered bonsai trees will develop wilted and dry leaves that become crispy over time and eventually drop off. Other common signs include curling leaves that turn brown at the tips, premature leaf drop, and leaf scorch.  

How to revive an underwatered bonsai tree

If you catch the underwatering before it has gone too far, you should be able to revive your bonsai. To do so, place the tree, in its container, in a basin or sink of water so that the water covers the entire pot. Leave it for at least five to 10 minutes so that the soil can become properly saturated. Once all of the soil has been wet and the roots have had access to sufficient water, remove the pot from the basin and allow any excess water to drain properly from the pot. This is important, as you do not want the tree’s roots to stand in waterlogged soil. Thereafter, check the bonsai tree daily and try to keep the soil damp, but not wet. 

Further steps to revive your underwatered or dying bonsai tree:

1. Trim off any dead parts of the tree.

Use sharp pruning shears to remove any dead, dried or wilted foliage, stems and branches. If you are trimming branches, cut them back all the way to the trunk. 

2. Trim off damaged or dead roots. 

If the tree has sustained considerable damage from underwatering, you may need to remove it from its pot to prune the roots and repot it. Check the root system thoroughly and use sharp shears to prune away any infected, wilted, or damaged roots, which should be cut back to the root mass. Only firm, white roots should remain; these are the healthy roots.

3. Inspect the cambium tissue.

The cambium is a layer of plant tissue, just beneath the bark, that is responsible for the secondary growth of stems and roots. Scratch away a small section of bark to check whether the cambium is green, which is an indication that the tree is alive and healthy. If this is the case, there is a good chance that your bonsai tree can recover from underwatering. 

4. Repot the bonsai tree.

If poor soil quality has contributed to the underwatering problem, you may need to repot your bonsai tree. Over time, soil can become depleted of nutrients; it could also be too well-draining, meaning that the roots do not get sufficient time to absorb water before the soil dries out again. Prepare your container and fresh potting soil of the correct type for your bonsai and repot the tree. Water it after repotting it, to settle the soil around the roots.

5. Amend your watering techniques. 

Water your bonsai tree regularly, but do remember to allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings, as the roots also need access to oxygen. Check the soil regularly and, if the top layer is dry to the touch, water your bonsai again. 

6. Place the bonsai tree in a partially shaded location.

Position the bonsai tree in a partially-shaded spot that gets at least four to six hours of sunlight daily. Choosing a well-ventilated area will also support its recovery, although it will not appreciate strong winds. During winter, place your bonsai tree in a south-facing window so that it can still get adequate light.

Allow your bonsai tree some time to recover and regenerate. It may take until the next growing season before it shows signs of a full recovery.

How long can a bonsai tree go without watering?

Bonsai trees are quite hardy when it comes to watering, and most of these trees can go without water for up to two or three weeks. They may suffer minor damage within such a period, but with a good soak and extra care, a bonsai tree can return to health after a few days. 

Bonsai tree care

A bonsai tree’s watering needs will depend on the local climate as well as the tree’s container, species and overall health. Do not let the soil dry out completely between waterings; the top layer of soil can be dry, but the lower levels should remain slightly damp. Keep in mind that, since bonsai trees are grown in shallow pots, their soil dries out faster than that of other house plants.  

Pruning is what keeps bonsai trees small, and indoor trees should be trimmed or pruned back whenever there are a couple of inches of new growth. Outdoor bonsai trees need to be pruned during the growing season of spring and summer. Remove broken branches and cut off any twigs that have more than four nodes. Shape the tree and improve its aesthetic by removing branches growing in the wrong direction and those that are too close to the base of the tree.

Average bonsai trees only need to be watered every two to three weeks during the spring and summer months, and somewhat less during the autumn and winter.

Conclusion 

Bonsai trees are widely popular for their aesthetic value, and they epitomize the superior standards of Japanese traditional arts. Tree varieties that are often made into bonsai trees include juniper, ficus and redwood.  Like most plants, bonsais are prone to underwatering – possibly even more so, because their pots are shallow and do not hold a lot of soil. Common signs of underwatering include wilted, curled or droopy leaves that become crisp over time and eventually fall off. To revive an underwatered bonsai tree, give it a proper soak in a basin of water for five to 10 minutes so that the moisture can reach through the entire root system. 

Image: istockphoto.com / SasinParaksa

The Chinese money plant, botanical name Pilea peperomioides, is a member of the stinging nettle family and a native of Yunnan Province, China. This renowned air-purifying plant has round, flat, dark green leaves that resemble pancakes. Other names for the plant include pancake plant,  UFO plant, lefse plant and missionary plant. Keep reading to learn exactly how, and why, you should repot your Chinese money plant.

How to repot a Chinese money plant

1. Choose the right container. 

Before you repot your Chinese money plant, you need to select a new pot of the correct material and the appropriate size, and ensure that it has drainage holes. If not, you can drill some so that excess water can flow easily out of the soil.  

Plastic, ceramic or terracotta pots are all fine, although terracotta helps to dry out the soil more quickly. If you are prone to overwatering your pilea plants, terracotta is the best option. Choose a pot size that is neither too small nor too big, but just the right size for your plant.  Ideally, it should be just slightly bigger than the plant’s current pot. 

2. Select the right potting soil.  

Chinese money plants do not like to be overwatered, so the ideal potting soil for them is fast-draining. These plants cannot tolerate sitting in soggy soil for any length of time. The recommended soil is a mix of cactus soil and succulent soil that is available commercially. You can also use any potting soil you have, and add in some perlite or pumice to improve the drainage. 

3. Remove the plant from its pot, taking care not to damage it. 

Water your pilea a few days before repotting it. This keeps the soil together and helps to slide the plant easily out of the old container. 

When you are ready to repot the plant, tip the pot over and slide the plant out while it is upside down. Do not pull at the plant. Use your free hand to support the central stem. If the plant will not budge, tap or squeeze the sides of the pot, or slide a knife around the inside edge of the pot before flipping and trying again. 

4. Repot your pilea plant with extreme care. 

Once you have prepared the correct container and potting soil and removed the plant, it is time to repot the plant. Put down some newspaper or cardboard, because this is a messy job, and ensure that you have to hand your new container and soil, and your pilea plant. To prepare the pot, place a coffee filter or burlap over the drainage hole at the bottom. This stops the soil from flowing out of the hole or blocking it. 

Having gently removed the plant from its old pot, examine the roots. Healthy roots are white and crisp, while unhealthy ones are brown, gray or black, and mushy to the touch. If any roots are damaged, you need to prune them back before you proceed. 

Run the plant’s roots under the tap to wash off as much soil as possible, and prune off damaged roots. Next, place some fast-draining potting soil in the bottom of the pot and place the plant on top of the new soil. Then scoop more soil, a cup at a time, around the plant until it has filled the container.  Do not bury the central stem too much, because you want to ensure that the leaves will have access to sunlight. 

Once the pot has been filled with the correct amount of soil, pat the soil down around the plant and water it until water flows out of the pot’s drainage holes. 

Once you have repotted your plant, place it back in its usual spot where it can receive bright, indirect light. Resume your regular watering schedule. There is no need to fertilize for at least three months, since the new potting soil should already be enriched with all the nutrients that your plant needs. 

 Why should you repot your Chinese money plant?

You should repot your pilea plant to give it room to grow. As it becomes taller, the root system beneath also becomes fuller, and will need more space to grow into. Repotting it will also refresh the soil, because after a few months to a year, the soil’s nutrients become depleted. 

Soil also becomes compacted over time, so to help the plant thrive you need to repot it periodically. The plant may also become top-heavy and tip over if it outgrows its pot. Repot the plant every year or so, in a container with a larger and heavier base to accommodate its growth. 

Repotting also corrects the root-to-soil ratio within the container, because plants that have been in the same pot for a long time end up with more roots than soil beneath the surface. Plants that do not have enough soil will constantly dry out and have to be watered more often. 

Conclusion 

Chinese money plants are popular houseplants, also known as pancake plants and missionary plants, among other names. They are great air purifiers and add aesthetic value to any room. They will need periodic repotting, just like any plants, because their roots will outgrow the pot and the soil will become depleted of nutrients.

To repot your plants, you need to prepare a new container of the correct size and material; terracotta is ideal to avoid soggy soil. Your potting soil should be fast-draining, since these plants do not like to be overwatered.  Gently transfer the plant to its new container, making sure to remove any unhealthy roots in the process. 

Image: istockphoto.com / patnowa

Cymbidium orchids, otherwise known as boat orchids, are native to Asia and Australia and can grow up to two feet tall. They have long, thin leaves and attractive blooms that come in white, yellow, pink or green. Like most plants, these orchids need to be repotted periodically if you want them to thrive. This article will dive deeper into how and why to repot your cymbidium orchid, so read on to learn more.

How to repot cymbidium orchids

To repot your cymbidium orchids, you will need to untangle and separate the mass of roots, which will be especially tricky if they have become overcrowded. You may need to use sharp pruning shears to separate some of them and make them more manageable. 

Next, remove any wilted or wrinkled roots and bulbs. To differentiate between healthy and dead roots, check their color and texture: Healthy roots are firm, vibrant and pale, while dead roots are brown and spongy. Cut out any dead bulbs so that you are left with a single row of old bulbs. Trim off the dead roots and shake off the debris. Also trim off any damaged leaves. 

Inspect the plant carefully for any insect or pest damage. You can help protect your orchids from pests by wiping the foliage with white oil or neem oil. 

Next, prepare your pot and make sure that it has very good drainage. If there are not enough holes, you can drill more – these plants have zero tolerance for soggy roots. 

Place the biggest clump in the center of the container and surround it with coarse orchid potting mix. Put the smaller clumps around it and fill with more orchid mix. Keep the bulbs just above the potting mix and the roots below. 

Water the orchid bulbs to settle and stabilize the fresh potting mix around the roots. Apply a wet orchid fertilizer and feed your orchid again during the late spring or summer, which is the growing period for its main foliage. 

When should you repot your cymbidium orchid?

Repot your cymbidium orchid when it has outgrown its container or if it has been in the same soil for at least two years. The best time to repot these plants is after their blooming has finished and right before the new growth begins. 

Cymbidium orchid care 

Cymbidiums thrive in temperate regions and grow in containers in any climate, but should be moved indoors at the first sign of frost. These plants are easily divided for repotting during spring and they grow quickly during the summer. The natural blooming season is winter, when the plants are placed indoors. Falling temperatures and reduced water usually trigger blooming. 

These plants prefer dappled sunlight during their growing season. If they are placed outdoors, do not put them in areas where there is direct sunlight as it could burn their foliage. Ideally, they should have a few hours of morning sunlight and shady afternoons. 

The leaves will be apple green if the lighting conditions are right. If the orchids have dark green leaves, it is likely that they are not receiving enough sunlight.

Cymbidiums are semi-terrestrial orchids and grow naturally in loamy soil. They will grow well when their potting mix is a rich, loose, organic one. The ideal combination is peat moss, fir bark, perlite and other loose organic materials.

Water the orchids regularly during the growing seasons, which are summer, fall and spring. Opt for pure water and steer clear of tap water, because an accumulation of mineral salts could cause damage such as leaf-tip dieback, which is when the tips of the leaves turn black and die. To get rid of a buildup of mineral salts, flush the potting mix with plenty of water. 

Reduce watering during the winter, but do not let the plant dry out completely. Keep the potting mix consistently and slightly damp. 

Cymbidium orchids are more cold-tolerant than many other orchid varieties. The larger varieties require an extended cold period to encourage blooms, while miniature varieties are not considered cold-weather dependent for blooming. These plants can withstand freezing temperatures, but frost could kill them. Inversely, they can survive the summer heat because they are suited to Asia’s temperate regions where day-to-night temperatures can vary greatly. 

These plants can tolerate high humidity but not very dry climates. An indoor humidity level up to 60% is ideal. To raise the humidity, place the plant on a tray filled with pebbles and water, ensuring that the bottom of the plant’s pot is not touching the water to avoid root rot. 

Conclusion 

Cymbidium orchids feature lovely blooms and are more cold-tolerant than other varieties, making them easier to grow in certain regions. Also known as boat orchids, they are native to Asia and Australia. Like most plants, they need to be repotted periodically to help them grow healthily. To repot these orchids, remove them from their previous containers, separate the roots and prune away any unhealthy ones. Use a coarse orchid potting mix in the new pot, and water the newly-repotted plant to stabilize the potting mix around the roots.

Image: istockphoto.com / joloei

Strawberry plants are sought-after for their sweet, edible fruit which is popular worldwide in desserts, pastries and preserves, as well as simply eaten fresh. These plants belong to the rose family, Rosaceae, and are native to the temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere and North America. They can be grown outdoors or indoors, but either way they will be susceptible to the effects of underwatering if you neglect them for too long.

Underwatered strawberry plant – Signs and how to revive 

Signs of an underwatered strawberry plant 

Underwatered strawberry plants become wilted due to the lack of moisture in their cells. For any plant to remain upright and to maintain the rigidity of its plant tissue, it needs to have a continuous supply of water. When the roots are unable to absorb any moisture from the soil, the rest of the plant will stop receiving water and nutrients, and its cells will dehydrate, becoming less ‘full’, which results in the limp appearance of the whole plant.

Other problems that cause wilting in strawberry plants:

• Low temperatures
• High salinity 
• Saturated soil 
• Disease or pest infestation

Underwatered strawberry plants may also turn brown from dehydration. When a leaf cannot replace its lost water, the plant tissue will die and the leaf will turn brown and, eventually, dry and crisp.

Other problems that cause strawberry plants to turn brown:

1. Incorrect watering technique

You need to hydrate your plants before 10 am or after 5 pm, especially if the temperature is hot outside. This is to ensure that the plants can absorb water without it evaporating.

Check the soil around the plants: if it is too moist, you may be overwatering, rather than underwatering. If the soil is very dry, however, you are probably not watering the plants enough. Try to aim for moist soil that is neither too dry nor too wet. 

2. Nitrogen deficiency

If your plants are turning yellow or brown despite being watered correctly, it could indicate a nitrogen deficiency. This happens in soil that has been overplanted, or in nitrogen-deficient soil. Provide the plants with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer to fix the problem easily. 

3. Diseases 

Strawberry plants may turn yellow or brown due to diseases like leaf spot, verticillium wilt, leaf blight and leaf scorch.

How to revive an underwatered strawberry plant

To revive underwatered strawberry plants, first confirm that the problem is indeed underwatering by pushing your index finger one to two inches into the soil. If it feels dry, the plants need water. Move the wilted plants out of the sun, place them in a sink or tray filled with water, and allow the soil to absorb the water through the drainage holes of the pots.  

If you are watering the plants from above, you can poke several holes in the soil’s surface to allow water to penetrate it more easily, because very dry soil can become a bit hydrophobic. Water the soil until it feels moist and until water flows out of the drainage holes if the plants are potted. If the soil is still feeling dry, wait at least 30 minutes to one hour and water the plant again. Repeat the process until the soil is properly moist. 

You can also mist the foliage with water to rejuvenate the plants quickly. Place the plants in an area where there is no full sunlight or heavy wind for the duration of their recovery.

How to water strawberry plants 

Strawberry plants need to be watered regularly, and should ideally receive an average of one to two inches of water per week. New plants can be given one inch of water weekly to establish growth. 

Water established plants with a shaker hose or through drip irrigation. Keep the hose at least two inches away from the plants and, during non-peak growing season, water at least twice weekly to keep the soil moist. Water earlier in the day as this allows the moisture to seep through the root system before it evaporates from the heat of the sun. 

To check whether the plants are receiving enough water, feel the top two inches of soil.  If the soil is moist at two inches deep, the plants have enough water. Do not overwater them, because they will then become prone to root rot. Improve the soil’s quality by mixing in a quality, well-draining potting mix. 

How are strawberries grown?

Strawberries of the common garden variety are small plants that stay at ground level. They do not become shrubs or bushes. These plants grow in sets of three and produce leafless stems from which the flowers and fruits grow. These fruits carry their seeds on the outside, unlike most plants that keep the seeds inside the fruit for better protection. 

Other problems you may encounter when growing strawberry plants: 

• Plants dying shortly after planting, due to transplant shock
• Plants dying due to crown rot
• Plants dying from frost damage
• Plants suffering from fungal diseases

Conclusion 

Strawberry plants are popular plants that can be grown both indoors and outdoors. They are sought-after worldwide for their sweet, edible fruits. Like most plants, they will be prone to the effects of underwatering if neglected for too long, and the most common signs of this are drooping and wilting. 

To revive underwatered strawberry plants, give them a good soak to allow all of the soil and roots to be saturated, and keep them away from direct sunlight to speed their recovery. You can also spray their foliage with water to help rejuvenate them.

Image: istockphoto.com / Mila Usmanova