Audrey Woods

Plumerias are small flowering trees that are native to Central America, Mexico, Brazil and Florida. They are also known as frangipani or lei flowers, and belong to the family Apocynaceae. They have large leaves and highly fragrant flowers which are used to make Hawaiian leis. These flowers can be pink, yellow, red or white. Plumerias are quite drought-tolerant but, like most plants, they are still prone to the effects of underwatering if neglected for too long. 

Underwatered plumeria – Signs and how to revive

Signs of an underwatered plumeria 

1. The plant becomes wilted. 

Wilting is a common sign in underwatered plants. When plumerias receive too little water they lose turgor, or the rigidity of their cells and plant tissue, resulting in an overall limp, wilted appearance. 

2. The soil is dry. 

Underwatered plants have dry soil around them. If the dry soil is accompanied by any other signs mentioned here, it is a clear indication that the plants need to be watered more frequently to stay hydrated and healthy. If dry soil is the only sign, then the underwatering has not become severe and you will be able to remedy it by simply watering the plant immediately.

3. The leaves are dry and brown. 

Underwatered plumerias develop dry leaves, starting from their tips and edges. The leaves will eventually turn brown and fall off the plant. This happens because the plant no longer has the resources to feed the leaves, and will concentrate its remaining moisture and energy on the parts most essential to its survival, rather than the leaves.

4. The plant’s growth has slowed. 

Underwatered plants tend to grow more slowly than they otherwise would. Any new leaf growth will likely also be smaller than its usual size. 

How to revive an underwatered plumeria 

• Water the plant.

Underwatered plants are dehydrated, and you need to water them as soon as possible to give them the best chance at recovery. Pour water into the soil until excess water runs freely from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. You can also use a hose to spray water on the stems and foliage. 

• Remove any dead leaves. 

Remove the dry and brown leaves so that the plant can focus its energy on new growth. Snip the leaves with a pair of shears or pinch them off with your fingertips. Dead leaves come off quite easily, especially plumeria leaves, because they are larger than those of many other plants. 

• Trim back the stems.

If the underwatering is severe, you may also need to trim back dead stems. Leave at least two inches of stem above the soil if most of the stems are already dead. If your plant is in a pot, you should also ideally repot it, and expect it to take a few weeks before it is fully revived.

• Assess the plant’s lighting conditions. 

To help revive your plumeria to optimal health, you should also check the amount of light it is receiving daily. Move the plant if necessary, so that it gets sufficient sunlight, but avoid giving it full sun all day while it is recovering.  

• Check whether the plant is getting ideal humidity levels.

If the plant is showing signs of wilting and shriveling, the humidity may be too low. If more humidity is needed, mist the plant regularly, place a pebble tray filled with water under the plant, or buy a humidifier to do the job for you.

Reasons plants need water:

1. To transport nutrients from the soil to the rest of the plant.
2. To maintain rigidity and the ability to stay upright. 
3. To avoid excess leaf or bud drop.
4. To photosynthesize. 
5. To stop flowers fading faster than usual. 

Factors that determine how often and how much you need to water your plumeria include your local climate and weather, soil conditions, and the size of the plant. 

Plumeria plant care

Plumerias are grown as small trees or ornamental shrubs. They prefer well-draining soil that is also quite acidic, and they need at least six hours of full sunlight per day. They are not cold-tolerant and should be protected from extremely cold temperatures. This means that in colder regions, they must be container-grown. 

You may also place container-grown plumerias on the ground and bring them indoors during cold weather. When the weather is warmer, you can always move the plants back outdoors. Use a well-draining potting mix or cactus mix if you are growing your plumerias in pots. Fertilize the plants at least every two to three weeks during the growing season. 

Reduce watering during the mid-fall season, and stop completely in winter when the plants enter dormancy. Once spring arrives, you can resume normal watering. At this time, also provide a high-phosphate fertilizer to encourage blooms. 

Conclusion 

Plumerias are also called frangipani or lei flowers, and are famous for their highly fragrant blooms. These tropical shrubs are fairly drought-tolerant, but are still prone to underwatering if you neglect them for too long. The most common signs of underwatered plumerias include wilting, dry and brown leaves, and slow growth. 

To revive your underwatered plumeria, give it a good and thorough watering so that excess water pours out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Trim off any dead leaves and stems, and check that you are providing adequate light and the correct humidity for the plant to make a full and speedy recovery. 

Image: istockphoto.com / silatip

Philodendrons, which belong to the Araceae family, are easy to grow and care for. They are popular indoor plants that adapt easily to indoor conditions, but also enjoy shady spots outdoors. However, despite being low-maintenance, philodendrons can still succumb to the effects of underwatering if neglected for long periods. 

Underwatered philodendron – Signs and how to revive 

Signs of an underwatered philodendron 

1. Wilting and crisp leaves

An underwatered plant will start to go limp and the leaves may become crisp. This indicates that not enough water remains in the plant’s cells. Plants have stoma, or pores, on the surface of their leaves, which allow air to enter the plant tissue. When there is a lack of water, the plants close these pores to halt evaporation, and this results in wilting. If the dehydration continues for some time, the total lack of moisture will cause the leaves to dry out and become crisp.

Plants may also wilt due to overwatering, too much sunlight, too much fertilizer, being rootbound, or due to diseases. 

2. Dry soil

The soil around an underwatered plant will be very dry. You can test the soil moisture by pushing a screwdriver into the ground. Wet soil is more easily penetrated than dry soil, so the harder it is to insert the screwdriver, the dryer the soil. The depth of penetration will also depend on the soil type, size of the screwdriver and your own strength.  

3. Slow growth

Plants that are underwatered are likely to have slowed or stunted growth due to the lack of not only water, but nutrients. A plant uses water to transport nutrients to its cells, so any drought conditions will also entail nutrient deficiencies. This condition could be temporary or permanent. If the plant is merely experiencing a low water supply, the growth may just be slowed for a short time. If the slowed growth is more permanent, you will notice that the new leaf growth is smaller than the usual leaves.

4. Discolored leaves

Underwatered philodendrons will develop yellowed and curled leaves. These leaves may also have dry edges. 

How to revive an underwatered philodendron 

• Check the topsoil and soak the plant.

Check whether the topsoil is dry to the touch, as this is a clear indication that the plant needs to be watered. The topsoil is the top two inches of soil around the plant. To give an underwatered plant a proper watering, you can water it from the bottom by putting it in a basin of water for about 30-45 minutes. The soil will absorb water through the holes at the bottom of the pot, and when you see that the topsoil has also become moist, you will know that the water has penetrated all of the soil. This means that all of the roots have had access to water.

• Move the plant to a shady spot.

Underwatered philodendrons should be moved away from bright windows to partially shaded areas. These plants do not do well when placed in direct sunlight for long periods, and even less so if they are underwatered. To allow your plant to bounce back to health as soon as possible, support it by providing it with indirect light so that it does not have to deal with further dehydration from sun exposure. 

• Amend your watering techniques.

When watering your philodendron, pour water directly over the soil so that all the roots are drenched and the soil becomes slightly moist. Water your plant in the morning rather than at night: this allows any excess water to drain out and the soil to dry from the sun’s warmth before nightfall. Water the plant less during winter, because this is when its growth is slower. To avoid overwatering, which is worse than underwatering, ensure that the top inch of potting soil is dry before watering the plant again. If you tend to underwater the plant despite your best intentions, keep track of your schedule by writing it down.

Philodendron plant care

Philodendrons thrive in areas with bright, indirect sunlight. Place them near windows where the sun’s rays cannot directly reach their foliage. If you notice the older leaves all turning yellow simultaneously, they could be getting too much light. Inversely, if the stems become leggy with several inches between the leaves, the plants may not be receiving enough light.

Make sure that the top inch of soil dries out between waterings. Check the soil by inserting your finger into it to assess the level of moisture. The plants may be getting either too much or not enough water if their leaves become droopy. Ideally, philodendrons should be watered every one to two weeks, but the rule of thumb remains: Before watering again, make sure that the top of the soil has dried out. 

Give your philodendrons a balanced liquid foliar fertilizer that contains macronutrients. Slow growth and a small leaf size are indications that your plants are not getting enough nutrients. Water your fertilized plants at least monthly during spring and summer and at least every eight weeks during fall and winter. A lack of nutrients, such as calcium and magnesium, could result in the younger leaves becoming unnaturally pale. 

Conclusion 

Philodendrons are popular indoor plants that are easy to grow and maintain. There are vining as well as non-climbing varieties, both of which, like most plants, are prone to underwatering. Common signs of underwatered philodendrons include wilted and discolored leaves, as well as slowed growth. To revive your underwatered plants, water them thoroughly to drench all of the soil, allow any excess water to drain away, and move the plants to a shady spot. To avoid underwatering in the future, you will need to revise your techniques and commit to a more regular watering schedule. 

Image: istockphoto.com / naramit

Echeverias are rose-shaped succulents that are part of the Crassulaceae family. These plants grow well in areas with desert-like conditions, being native to Mexico, Central America and northwestern South America. Their waxy leaves are usually blue-gray or gray-green in color, but can also be green or purple. These popular succulents, despite being drought-resistant, are also susceptible to the effects of underwatering if neglected for long periods.

Underwatered echeveria – Signs and how to revive 

Signs of underwatered echeveria 

Underwatered echeveria plants will have shriveled leaves and a wrinkled appearance because the water stores in their leaves are low. The plants will also look droopy and wilted due to severe dehydration. The leaves will also start turning brown and drying out, starting at the bottom of the plant. As the dehydration becomes more severe, the higher-up, younger leaves will also be affected. The dry leaves may also drop off the plant. This is because the plant is conserving its remaining water to ensure its survival, rather than prioritizing the health of the leaves. 

Underwatered plants will also have soft, flat, deflated leaves. The leaves lose their plumpness and firmness due to the depleted water stores in their cells. For the same reason, the plants will feel rubbery and will bend easily.

They may also grow aerial roots, which appear as white or pink tendrils growing from the stem above the soil. Succulents send out these aerial roots to absorb water from the air, and will be more prone to doing this when the soil is not providing the required amount of water. Plants in areas with high humidity tend to have aerial roots. 

Although succulents like echeveria plants store water in the tissue of their stems and leaves, they still need a certain amount of water to survive. These plants are highly adapted to dry conditions and can withstand drought, but if they do not get water after their stores have been depleted, they will succumb. 

How to revive underwatered echeveria

To revive an underwatered echeveria, use a watering can to pour water generously around the plant’s base. Once the soil has absorbed the water, pour more. Repeat these steps until water starts to drain out of the holes at the bottom of the pot. Allow all of this excess water to drain completely. 

The plant should look revived and feel firm again after a few days. If, after three or four days, the plant still does not feel firm but instead looks wrinkled, repeat the watering process. Resume your regular watering schedule once the plant has recovered, but water it slightly more frequently than you did before, to avoid repeating the underwatering problem. 

Nevertheless, always err on the side of underwatering rather than overwatering. If you have been watering every two weeks and your plant is looking shriveled, try switching to every 10 days.

Echeveria plant care 

Echeverias are low-maintenance plants, but they still need basic care. Plant them in well-draining soil that allows proper drainage. Perlite and coarse sand can be added to further improve drainage. These plants do well when planted in unglazed pots with drainage holes, as the clay or terracotta absorbs excess moisture and protects the roots in the event of overwatering. 

These plants require ample sunlight to develop properly, and they thrive in full sun. Ideally, they should get at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. If they lack exposure to sunlight, they may become elongated or leggy. Echeverias should also be moved outdoors during hot weather. 

These plants are very sensitive to overwatering, which could cause root rot and attract pests like mealybugs. Soak the soil thoroughly when watering, but allow it to dry completely before you water the plants again. 

Echeverias do well in desert-like conditions and are intolerant of cold temperatures. They should be grown in dry areas, because too much humidity could lead to root rot. The ideal temperature for these plants is 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

If your plant outgrows its original pot, you can repot it, but do not do this often. Gently remove the plant from the pot and clear the soil from around the roots before transferring it to a new, larger container with fresh soil mix. The best time to repot plants is in spring, which is the start of the growing season. 

Echeverias can be propagated by separating the offsets from the mother plant, or by using leaf cuttings.

Conclusion

Echeverias are low-maintenance, drought-resistant plants with waxy blue-gray, gray-green, green or purple leaves. These rosette-shaped succulents are also prone to the effects of underwatering if neglected for too long, and the most common signs are shriveled, wrinkled leaves that feel limp and rubbery. 

To revive an underwatered echeveria, water it thoroughly until excess water pours out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. If, after three or four days, the plant still looks dry and wilted, repeat the process. Going forward, adjust your watering schedule to avoid underwatering the plant again. 

Image: istockphoto.com / MAsummerbreak

Sempervivum plants are more commonly known as houseleeks, or hen and chicks. They are drought-resistant succulents that thrive in sunny areas, and are very easy to cultivate, making them popular indoors plants. They form attractive mats of tufted leaves in a rosette formation. Despite being succulents, these plants are still prone to the effects of underwatering if neglected for long periods. This article will help you learn how to spot an underwatered sempervivum and how to revive it.

Underwatered sempervivum – Signs and how to revive

Signs of underwatered sempervivum 

1. The leaves are shriveled.

An underwatered sempervivum will become shriveled and wrinkly, because the water stores in its leaves have been depleted. The plant will look droopy and wilted from this moisture loss. 

2. The leaves are dried up and brown. 

Another sign of an underwatered sempervivum is dry, brown leaves. The leaves at the bottom start to dry out first, and as the plant uses up more of its water stores, the higher-up, younger leaves will also start turning brown. The dried-out leaves may also drop off so that the plant can focus more water and energy on survival. 

3. The leaves have a flat, soft texture.

Underwatered sempervivum plants lose their firmness and plumpness, and the leaves become soft and flat instead. It looks almost as if the leaves are deflated – which they are, because their water stores are gone. 

How to revive an underwatered sempervivum

Fortunately, it is easier to revive an underwatered sempervivum than an overwatered one. To revive your underwatered plant, give it a thorough soaking with water. Drench all of the soil to ensure that all the roots have access to water. Allow the soil to dry, and then give it another good watering. 

You will need to review your watering schedule going forward. If you have been watering the plant routinely once a month, try increasing the watering to every two weeks and see what happens. It might take some trial and error before you find exactly the schedule your plant prefers, and this will also depend on your local climate and weather conditions. Just make sure you do not replace underwatering with overwatering, as this can lead to root rot. 

How to water sempervivums  

These plants like sandy, well-draining soil. Use pots with ample drainage holes, and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. It is better to water sempervivums deeply and infrequently, rather than little and often. Check the plants and soil regularly to make sure you are neither overwatering nor underwatering. 

Sempervivum plant care

Sempervivum plants can have glossy or matte leaves, and they come in a wide range of colors. Some species have bluish-pink leaves with magenta tips, while others have apple-green leaves with swirls of wooly hairs. The plants bloom on stalks, with star-shaped flowers in red, pink or yellow. Each rosette only blooms once. 

These plants can withstand a range of lighting conditions, from partial shade to bright sun. Outdoor plants should be acclimatized gradually to direct sunlight, to avoid sunburn. They can withstand intense heat but make sure not to expose them for too long. 

Sempervivums can survive despite infrequent but thorough watering, and will stay healthy if they are only watered once a month. If the weather gets colder, water your plant less so that the roots do not become soggy. 

These plants prefer porous, well-draining soil, just like other succulents. If your plant is in a pot, keep its roots dry and happy by using a conventional cactus mix. If it is planted in a garden bed, see to it that the soil is not too dense by adding coarse sand, gypsum or pumice. 

The easiest way to propagate this plant is to remove offsets from the parent plant. Cut off the stem connecting the two and replant the offset in porous soil. Newly-potted offsets need more frequent watering to establish their root systems. Once there is evident growth, you can revert to infrequent watering as you would for mature plants.

Sempervivums can tolerate a range of temperatures, but generally prefer an average temperature of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature becomes too low, the plant will go into a semi-dormant state and stop growing. 

Conclusion 

Sempervivums are popular indoor plants because of their unique and attractive appearance. They are low-maintenance succulents that are very easy to grow and propagate. Like most plants, however, they are prone to the effects of underwatering if neglected for too long. The most common signs of this are brown, shriveled and dried-up leaves. 

To revive an underwatered sempervivum, you need to give it a thorough soak in water, and increase your watering depth and frequency for several weeks until you see a response. Allow the soil to dry out before watering the plant again, otherwise you risk overwatering it instead.

Image: istockphoto.com / Mariel887

English ivy plants, with the scientific name Hedera helix, are woody, evergreen, perennial vines. Also known as common ivy or European ivy, they are fast growers and make a good ground cover. They can also cover walls, fences, trellises and trees. These plants are toxic to both humans and animals. Like most plants, English ivy will be susceptible to the effects of underwatering if its watering needs are neglected for too long. 

Underwatered English ivy – Signs and how to revive

Signs of underwatered English ivy 

1. The leaves turn yellow or brown. 

The leaves of an underwatered English ivy plant will turn yellow and eventually brown due to extreme dehydration. Water is used not only for hydration, but also to transport nutrients throughout the plant. This means that if the plant is deprived of water, it will also suffer from a nutrient deficiency, which can result in leaf discoloration. 

2. The leaves become dry and crispy.

This can be due to underwatering or from being grown under direct sunlight. The leaves will dry out and become crispy after a long period without water, but this can also happen due to being scorched by the sun. While these plants can tolerate some direct sun, too much could damage their foliage. Also keep in mind that plants in full sun will need more water than those in partial shade, as they will dehydrate faster from the heat of the sun. 

3. The plant wilts

If your plant is wilting, it is a sign that the root system has become compromised or is dying from drought stress. It is no longer able to transport water to the rest of the plant, resulting in wilting due to a lack of water in the plant tissue. If the roots are still alive, you may be able to save the plant. Remove it from the soil and check for roots that are firm and pale. If they are all shriveled and dry, they are probably dead and the plant cannot be saved.

How to revive underwatered English ivy

To revive your underwatered English ivy, you will need to water it thoroughly as soon as possible, and then adjust your watering schedule to one more suitable for the plant. If it is in a pot, you can stand the pot in a bath or basin of water for about 30-45 minutes to allow the soil to absorb the water from the bottom. When the top layer of soil starts to look moist, you can remove the pot from the water and allow any excess water to drain out.

The plant can take days or weeks to bounce back to health, depending on how severely underwatered it was. Try to keep it out of direct sunlight during this time to facilitate a faster recovery.

To avoid underwatering in the future, you will need to be more vigilant and try to achieve the ideal soil moisture balance for yoru English ivy. The correct schedule will depend on your local weather conditions and climate, but generally, a thorough soak at least once a week is ideal. This provides the plant with ample water while still allowing the soil to dry out a bit between waterings. 

If you live in a place with a dry climate or low humidity, you may need to water your English ivy a little more often. It is fine for the surface of the soil to feel dry, but ideally it should not dry out completely around the roots. Nor should there be too much water, as the roots should never be surrounded by boggy soil. If the plant is in a pot, water it until you see excess water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom, as this means that the water has reached all the roots. 

The plant’s pot should also be an appropriate size. Larger pots have more soil capacity and can therefore retain more moisture, which is useful when temperatures are high. A larger pot also prevents the roots from becoming pot-bound, and the extra soil provides more nutrients. However, a pot that is too large may retain too much water, which can cause overwatering, so do not go overboard when selecting a larger size.

Cut back any brown or dying plant parts to stimulate new growth. Leaves that have already turned brown are less likely to survive, and by pruning them away you will allow the plant to focus its resources on new, healthy growth and recovery. 

English ivy is a woodland climber that prefers partial sun, shade, or dappled light. To revive a shriveled and underwatered plant, move it to an area with bright, indirect light or a spot that gets morning sun and afternoon shade. If the plant has become accustomed to a certain spot and is then moved to a more sunny area, its leaves may look scorched and the plants might look as if it is dying. If you want to move your plant to a sunnier area, it is better to gradually expose it to more and more sunlight by moving it to a sunnier spot for just a few hours a day to begin with. This will help it adjust to the differing light levels better than if it is suddenly moved from shade to full sun. 

The sun will also increase the evaporation of water from the soil, as well as the loss of water from the leaves through transpiration. Monitor the plant to ensure that the soil does not become too dry, and increase the watering frequency accordingly.

English Ivy plant care

English ivy is a great ground cover for preventing soil erosion, especially on hillsides. It also does well when planted in baskets or containers where its vines can hang down. These perennials thrive in part to full shade, such as when planted under trees, and they have a dense growth habit. They prefer bright, indirect light during summer, but could tolerate direct light during the winter. 

This plant likes well-draining soil. Mulch can be used to help keep the soil moist in dry climates. Indoor plants grow well in loose, well-draining potting mix. 

When watering, always check the soil before watering your plant. It prefers to be slightly on the dry side, so allow the soil to dry out before watering again. Try to keep the soil moist but not soggy, and see to it that both the soil and the pot have good drainage. The roots should not be kept in standing water or in overly wet soil. 

English ivy likes temperatures of 45 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The leaves become dark green when temperatures are steady and humidity is medium to high. They do not like the winter cold or the high summer heat. 

Ideally, keep indoor plants at around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. However, some species do well even during winter. 

Fertilize the plants at least every two weeks during spring and summer, ideally with a 2-2-2 organic formula. Avoid fertilizing if the plant is stressed, such as during erratic or extreme weather or if the soil is very dry. 

Conclusion  

English ivy is a fast-growing evergreen perennial that has become popular as an indoor plant. Take some precautions when handling it, because it is toxic to humans and animals. 

If its watering needs are neglected for too long, your English ivy will start to succumb to the effects of underwatering. Signs of this include yellowing leaves which eventually turn brown, and shrivelled or scorched leaves. 

To revive your underwatered plant, give it a thorough soak immediately and at least once a week thereafter. This frequency will give the soil time to dry out a bit before the next watering, so that the roots also have access to oxygen. Also ensure that the plants’ pot is an appropriate size, and place it where it can get bright, indirect light. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Assja

Philodendrons are popular indoor plants that can also be kept outdoors in a shady area. These houseplants come in two main types: the vining and the non-climbing varieties. Vining philodendrons, such as the heartleaf philodendron, need supporting structures to climb on, while non-climbing varieties, such as lacy tree philodendrons, stand upright. Like all plants, your philodendron will need to be repotted periodically. This article will help you understand how to report a philodendron properly, as well as some other information about caring for this plant. 

How to repot a philodendron

A day before you plan to repot your plant, water it thoroughly. This will minimize the stress experienced by the plant and make the process easier.  Choose a new pot that is at least one to two inches larger than the current pot, and ensure that it has drainage holes. 

Next, cut back the philodendron to the desired length with a sharp knife or a pair of scissors. For plants that have stunted growth, prune to a height of four inches. Healthy plants do not require pruning before repotting. 

Put an inch of high-quality, well-drained potting soil at the bottom of the new pot. 

Remove the plant from the old pot using one hand to cradle the soil and root ball, and the other hand to slide off the container. Hold the plant upside down and tap the edge of the pot against a hard surface so that the root mass will slide out. 

Check the roots for any discoloration or disease. Healthy roots are pliable, and are a light tan or white color. Cut off any brittle or mushy roots and discard them properly. 

Make a few vertical cuts from top to bottom around the perimeter of the root ball if the plant is root-bound, as this will encourage new root growth. 

Shake the excess soil gently from the plant’s roots and place the root mass in the prepared pot. 

Fill the new pot one-half to three-quarters with fresh soil. Ideally, the soil you should use should be a mixture of one part peat moss, one part potting soil and one part perlite. Commercial potting soil is too dense for potted plants and compacts quickly when watered. 

Finally, water the plant thoroughly until excess water flows out from the bottom of the pot. 

Your plants are less likely to become root-bound if you repot them when necessary. Although they can tolerate being rootbound, it is not ideal for their overall well-being. Symptoms of a root-bound plant include yellow or brown leaves; it will also wilt faster than usual after watering. Repotting the plants regularly facilitates healthy new growth. 

When should you repot your philodendron?

Repot philodendrons during early spring, when they are coming out of dormancy. If you see roots coming out from the bottom of the container, you need to repot your plant. Also, if the plant needs to be watered more often than usual, it is an indication that it is root-bound and ready to be transferred to a larger pot. 

What type of soil do philodendrons prefer?

Philodendrons prefer loose, well-draining soil. The ideal potting soil for these plants is a mix of peat moss, perlite and soil. Peat moss holds moisture and releases it gradually to the roots. It also holds nutrients in the soil instead of them being washed away during watering. 

Meanwhile, perlite improves aeration and provides drainage. Ideally, use one part perlite, one part peat moss and one part potting soil for your plants.

Philodendron plant care

Philodendrons thrive in areas with bright, indirect sunlight. Choose a spot for your plants where the sun’s rays do not directly hit their foliage. If your plants have several leaves that are turning yellow, it could be an indication that they are exposed to too much light. Inversely, they are getting too little light if their stems are long and leggy with several inches between the leaves. 

Allow the top inch of the plants’ soil to dry out between waterings. Insert your finger into the soil to check the moisture level. The plants may be over- or underwatered if they have droopy leaves, but once you have corrected their watering schedule, they should recover quickly. 

Feed your plants with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer that contains macronutrients. Do this monthly during spring and summer, and every six to eight weeks in the fall and winter. If you notice that the leaves are small and the plants are growing slowly, it may be an indication that your plants are not getting enough fertilizer. 

Conclusion 

Philodendrons are popular houseplants that originated from tropical America. These plants can be either vining or non-climbing varieties, and thrive in areas where they can get bright, indirect sunlight. They will need periodic repotting, like most plants.

To repot your philodendron, water it thoroughly a day before transferring it to its new container. This will reduce the stress of repotting. Prune the plant to the desired length and trim away any damaged roots. Use well-draining soil for your plant and water it thoroughly in its new pot, until water flows out of the drainage holes. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Firn

Spider plants are a popular choice for beginner plant collectors, because they are low-maintenance and easy to care for and propagate. These plants can grow to become huge,  especially when provided with close-to-ideal living conditions.

Spider plants are fine with being a little rootbound, but you should never let your plant reach the point where there are more roots than soil inside the pot. If you let it get to this point, the roots may become damaged and even get root rot, because the drainage holes can get blocked by the roots and excess water will not be able to escape. Be sure to keep a regular eye on the plant and transplant it to a bigger container before this happens.

In this article, we will discuss the reasons for repotting a spider plant, and when and how to do this. So, if you are planning on repotting your spider plant, keep reading to find out more.

Why does my spider plant need to be repotted?

As mentioned above, you need to repot your spider plant before it becomes severely rootbound. You can check whether the plant is rootbound by removing it from the pot and checking the root mass. However, you can usually get a pretty clear idea that the plant is rootbound even without removing it from the pot. Signs of a rootbound plant include a dehydrated appearance, roots growing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, the soil in the pot drying out a lot faster than normal, and if the water that you have just poured into the soil drains out almost instantaneously. Looking at the leaves can also tell you whether the plant is rootbound: new leaves will be turning yellow, the leaves will droop, and the plant’s overall growth will become stunted.

If you notice these signs despite having provided the perfect care for your spider plant, the next step is to check the roots. Water the plant the night before you do this, so that the soil is quite moist the following day. Lay the plant’s pot on one side and try to pull the plant out of the pot gently, without using too much force.

If you struggle to dislodge the plant, use a knife to loosen the soil from the sides of the pot. Once you have done this, the plant will hopefully slide more easily out of the pot.

Inspect the root mass by gently removing as much of the potting soil as you can. Determine the severity of the rootbound situation. If the roots appear only to have started wrapping around the root ball, the plant is only slightly rootbound. If the roots have formed mats around the root ball, the plant is definitely rootbound. But, if the roots have formed a solid mass that seems to have taken over the entire space inside the pot and very little soil is left, then the plant is severely rootbound.

Remember that the plant is alright with being slightly rootbound, but try to repot it before it gets any worse than that.

Does a spider plant like being rootbound?

Even though a spider plant is usually fine with being slightly rootbound, that does not mean that it actually likes being rootbound – even just a little bit. Even this little bit can affect its general health in the long run.

When the plant’s pot is overtaken by roots, the absence of soil means that the plant gets less water and nutrients than normal. The plant is also unable to expand and grow its roots due to the limited space.

Compare a spider plant grown in a pot to one that is grown in the ground: A spider plant in the ground can grow to whatever size it likes with no restrictions, since the soil around its roots provides lots of nutrients and space. The plant’s growth is not hindered by the limited space of a pot. The plant in the ground is also able to grow a sturdy root structure that can support the size of its body with no problem.

A spider plant grown in a pot, on the other hand, will always have a limited supply of resources because of the limited volume of soil in the pot. The bigger the plant grows, the more roots it will grow and the more space it will take up in the pot, ultimately displacing the soil. The less soil is left in the pot, the less support the plant has. The nutrients become ever more depleted and the plant will also end up deprived of sufficient water.

The longer you keep the plant rootbound in a small pot, the more compromised it becomes. This will result in the wilting and drooping of the plant’s leaves and the stunting of its growth.

When should I repot my spider plant?

Ideally, you should repot your spider plant once every one to two years, because this is a fast-growing plant. Often, the plant will become slightly rootbound earlier than this, but it will take another year before the issue becomes serious.

It is also not advisable to be too eager about repotting; this is a very stressful process for the plant, so it should be limited to when it is actually necessary. Nevertheless, no matter how long it has been since the last time you repotted the plant, if it is showing signs of being severely rootbound, you need to repot it immediately.

Repot the spider plant during the spring or summer, when it is actively growing, so that it will make a faster recovery than during the winter when it is dormant.

How do I save a rootbound spider plant?

Once you have determined that your spider plant is indeed rootbound, you will have to repot the plant or split it into sections; that is, separate plants.

It is much easier to repot the whole plant, but if you want to keep the mother plant while having one or more new plants in other pots, then splitting is the way to go. This is also a great way to increase the number of spider plants in your collection.

How to repot a spider plant

When you repot a spider plant, you are basically transferring it to a new, larger pot that will give the roots more space to grow into. The fresh soil that you use in the pot will also replenish the nutrients that have been depleted over time in the old pot.

In order to repot the spider plant, first choose a new pot that is larger than the old one and will be able to accommodate the plant’s roots.

Water the plant the night before, so that the soil is properly moist and the plant is well-hydrated.

The next day, take the plant and lay the pot on its side, to make it easier to remove the plant. If the plant does not slide out of the pot easily, use an old knife to loosen the soil from the sides of the pot and then try removing the plant again.

Shake off as much of the old soil from the root mass as you can, so that you will be able to inspect the roots closely. Using a sterilized knife or pruning shears, cut off any black or brown, mushy or dry roots, because those are dying or already dead.

Discard all of the old soil in case it is harboring pathogens that can cause root rot.

Spray the roots with 3% hydrogen peroxide before placing the plant in the new pot and filling it with fresh soil. Do not pack the soil around the roots, because they prefer the soil to be loose and airy.

Water the plant after repotting and place it in a spot where it gets plenty of bright, indirect light. This way the plant can recover quickly from the stressful experience of repotting.

How to split a spider plant?

If you prefer to split the spider plant, you can end up with two to three more spider plants as opposed to just one.

The night before you do the splitting, water the plant so that it is well-hydrated and the soil is moist.

The following day, loosen the soil in the old pot with an old knife so that it is easier to remove the plant. Lay the pot on one side and pull the plant out of the pot.

Remove as much as possible of the old potting soil from the root mass by shaking it or poking the roots with a skewer. This is so you can inspect the roots more closely.

If there are any roots that have turned brown or black or are mushy, you will need to remove those by cutting them off with a sterilized knife or pruning shears.

Then, start sectioning the plant into two or three equal parts. Do this carefully, using the knife, with minimal cutting or damage so that the roots are kept as intact as possible.

Prepare the new pots, place the newly-sectioned plants into each pot, and then fill the pots with fresh potting soil.

Water the plants immediately after repotting and place them in an area where they can all get lots of bright, indirect light.

Remember not to continue with splitting if the plant does not appear 100% healthy. If that is the case, you are better off just repotting the entire plant.

Conclusion

Spider plants are popular plants because they are hardy and do not need much attention to grow big and healthy. As long as you provide this plant with its basic needs, it will do just fine.

Although these plants need repotting periodically, refrain from repotting your plant too often because this is a stressful process and the plant should be subjected to it as seldom as possible. You need to be vigilant in knowing exactly when your plant needs to be repotted.

If the plant’s roots are only slightly rootbound upon inspection, all you have to do is to replace the pot with one that is one to two sizes larger than the current one. However, if the plant’s roots are severely rootbound, you are better off splitting the plant so that all of the dying or dead roots can be properly removed. The sectioned plant will be divided into two or three plants, meaning that you are essentially propagating the spider plant.

Signs of a rootbound plant include stunted growth, droopy leaves, and roots growing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

The only parameter that should be followed with regard to repotting is to make sure that the plant is 100% healthy. Repotting or splitting is traumatic and stressful, so that plant should be healthy enough to recover before undergoing this process.

Image: istockphoto.com / Maryviolet

Peperomia plants are also called radiator plants, pepper elder, baby rubber plants, and shining bush. They have thick, fleshy leaves and are native to Mexico, Florida and the Caribbean. There are around 1,000 species of peperomia, and their leaves can be textured, variegated, marbled, heart-shaped, or tiny. These are low-maintenance, slow-growing plants, and like most plants, they are prone to the effects of underwatering if neglected for too long. 

Underwatered peperomia – Signs and how to revive 

Signs of an underwatered peperomia 

1. Dry, curling leaves 

The leaves of underwatered peperomias tend to become dry, crispy and curled from lack of water. Keep in mind that these symptoms could also be caused by low humidity or an infestation of pests such as spider mites or aphids. If pests are the culprit, use insecticidal soap or neem oil to eradicate them. 

2. Drooping leaves 

Underwatered plants will have drooping leaves, which, as above, is also due to dehydration. The leaves will wilt and the plant will eventually die if the situation is not remedied. You will need to act quickly so that the plant does not lose all its leaves, as this is how most neglected peperomias die.  

How to revive an underwatered peperomia 

Test the soil by pushing your fingers into it, up to about two or three inches. If the soil is dry to more than three inches below the surface, this is an indication that the plant has been dehydrated for a long time already. You will need to give your plant a thorough soaking to revive it. Put the pot in a sink or basin of room-temperature water and allow the soil to soak up the water for about 45 minutes. Once the soil is completely soaked, remove the plant from the basin and allow the excess water to drain thoroughly from the pot. 

If the soil has been underwatered for a very long time, it may have lost its ability to hold moisture and you will need to repot the plant. Use a well-draining, light and rich potting mix comprised of sand, perlite and gravel. 

Other common problems you may encounter with your peperomia: 

• Overwatering  
• Incorrect soil pH 
• Insufficient sunlight 
• Pest infestation 

Peperomia plant care

Peperomias are ideal plants for those who are new to gardening and plant-raising. They come in a range of colors and textures, and can tolerate neglect fairly well. They should be planted in pots with sufficient drainage holes, preferably in orchid mix, and placed in bright, indirect light. 

These plants prefer medium to bright light to maintain the color of their foliage. Filtered morning light is acceptable, as is 16 hours per day of artificial light. If they do not receive enough light, they will have fewer leaves, discoloration and leaf drop. Do not place them in full sun, as this could cause sunburn. 

Certain species grow in the wild, and may settle in tree bark. For your plants to survive, use a soil mix that imitates their natural habitat: it should be loose, chunky and acidic. Orchid potting medium is ideal, although regular potting soil is also suitable. Mix it with a handful of peat moss or vermiculite to achieve the right soil balance. 

Peperomias have fleshy leaves that allow them to survive for long periods without water.  Before watering your plants, allow the surface of the soil to dry out. It is better to underwater than overwater these plants since overwatering could lead to root rot and fungus gnat infestation, which is harder to deal with than underwatering. 

Peperomias should not be exposed to temperatures below 30 degrees Fahrenheit. They prefer a warm environment, especially during the summer months. To increase the humidity around them, place the plants on pebble trays filled with water, or buy a small humidifier to do the job for you. 

When it comes to fertilizing, less is always more. Some species can go without fertilizer entirely. Peperomias are slow-growing epiphytes and usually get their required nutrients from their potting media. 

Conclusion 

Peperomias are popular indoor plants because of their unique foliage and the fact that they are so low-maintenance. They can also clean certain toxins from the air. These plants can go long periods without water, but are still susceptible to the effects of underwatering if neglected for too long. The most common signs of underwatered peperomias are drooping, curling and dry leaves. 

To revive your underwatered plants, give them a thorough soak in a basin of water, allow the excess water to drain from the pots, and transfer them to an area where they get bright, indirect light. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Tessa57

Haworthia plants, with the botanical name Haworthia attenuata, are succulent houseplants with an attractive, stripy pattern on their leaves. They are also referred to as zebra plants, and are very easy to care for. They belong to the Asphodeloideae family, along with aloes and gasterias. These small succulents are native to South Africa and, while they are very low-maintenance, it is possible to underwater them if you neglect them for too long. 

Underwatered Haworthia – Signs and how to revive 

1. Shriveled, wrinkled leaves 

Underwatered Haworthias look shriveled, wrinkled and dry due to the lack of moisture in their leaves. 

2. Crisp, brown spots on the foliage 

Brown, crispy spots will develop on the plant’s foliage due to dehydration and a lack of nutrients, because nutrients are also transported through the plant via water. 

3. Closed-up leaves 

The leaves tend to close up when they are dehydrated, which is a common trait among rosette-forming succulents. 

4. Unhealthy root systems 

Underwatered Haworthias will have sickly-looking root systems that do not function well. The roots are dehydrated, which will affect their ability to provide water to the rest of the plant.

5. Rubbery leaves 

Underwatered succulents, including Haworthias, will have rubbery leaves that bend easily, while healthy, hydrated leaves should be firm and plump.

6. Aerial roots

Underwatered succulents may develop aerial roots that grow above the soil. This is an attempt to collect water from the air when the plant is not able to get its moisture from the soil. 

How to revive an underwatered Haworthia

• Water your Haworthia as you would normally. Do not give it too much water, as the plant could end up overwatered, which is a more dangerous condition for succulents than underwatering. An overwatered Haworthia will be far more difficult to revive. 
• Place the affected plant in the shade, or where there is no bright or intense sunlight. 
• Be patient with your plant; it could take a few days or weeks for it to bounce back. A big part of a plant’s recovery will depend on its overall health. 

Continue to water your plant thoroughly, giving it a good soak each time so that the water seeps through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Make sure you allow the soil to dry out between waterings, to avoid overwatering your Haworthia instead. After a few good, deep soaks, the plant should make a full recovery and bounce back to health. 

How to water Haworthias and other succulents

• Check the soil using the finger test. If the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch, it is time to water your plant. If the soil is still damp to the touch, wait a few days and then check it again. 
• Water the plants from the bottom instead of from above, to ensure that the roots receive ample water. 
• Water deeply but infrequently, and see to it that the excess water drains out of the bottom of the pot. 
• After deep watering, allow at least a week before you water the plant again. 
• Monitor your watering frequency and adjust as necessary, because every plant is different. The frequency also depends on the season, climate and weather where you are, as well as the soil conditions. 
• Start by watering once every two weeks, and transition to once a week if that is what the plant prefers. If the soil is still drying out too quickly, water the plant twice a week.

Haworthia plant care

Haworthias are adaptable succulents that thrive in areas with bright, indirect light. The full sun could make their leaves turn purple or brown.  Place them in a partially shaded spot to keep the leaves healthy, but avoid deep shade since that will make them lanky and discolored. 

Water the plants approximately once a week, especially during warm weather. Water deeply, and only water again once the soil has dried out. These plants will easily develop root rot if they are overwatered. Keep water out of their crowns or rosettes, because this can cause crown rot during cold weather. 

Humidity is not that essential for succulents, but ensure that they have good ventilation.

Fertilize your plants occasionally, but only with a weak solution, because succulents are not big feeders. Prioritize those that produce a large number of offset around the base. 

Succulents are happy growing in average indoor warmth. They do not like cold temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. 

Your Haworthia will not need to be repotted often. Only do so when the offsets have filled the pots.

Conclusion 

Haworthias are popular houseplants because of their attractively patterned appearance. They are drought resistant and store water in their leaves, but are nevertheless prone to the effects of underwatering if neglected for too long. Common signs of underwatering include shriveled, wrinkled, rubbery leaves, unhealthy root systems, and the development of aerial roots. You can revive your underwatered plants by giving them a thorough soak with water and transferring them to an area with indirect sunlight to help them recover faster. 

Image: istockphoto.com / arraymax

Hydrangeas are popular plants because of their colorful flowers that come in a multitude of colors, including pink, purple, blue, green and white. These plants are native to Asia and the Americas, with most species found in Japan, Korea and China. They can grow from three to 15 feet tall, and they bloom best in partly shaded areas. They are easy to care for but, like most plants, they will suffer the effects of underwatering if neglected for too long.

Underwatered hydrangeas – Signs and how to revive 

Signs of underwatered hydrangeas

Hydrangeas have a fibrous, shallow root system and do best in moist soil. If they appear wilted or droopy, it is a sign of stress due to drought, or a lack of soil moisture. 

Underwatered hydrangeas are easy to spot because they will start to droop and the leaves and flowers will wilt. The flowers may also turn brown and the number of flowers will be reduced. The most common causes of underwatering are not giving the plant as much water as it needs, and soil that drains too quickly without retaining any moisture. 

Other reasons the plant’s leaves may dehydrate and shrivel include:

1. The plants are growing under a tree canopy, surrounded by tree roots that have a great demand for water.
2. The plants cannot access water or rainfall because of a dense tree canopy. 
3. The plants are in exposed areas with high winds.
4. The plants have been overfertilized with nitrogen fertilizers, causing the stems to go soft and the leaves and flowers to droop. 

How to revive underwatered hydrangeas

To revive underwatered hydrangeas, you need to soak their soil generously with water. Hydrangeas usually do not require additional water in temperate climates, but they should be properly watered once a week, especially if they are competing with other trees or if the soil conditions are not optimal. Ideally, apply mulch around the plants to conserve moisture, improve soil structure and prevent direct sunlight from drying the soil. 

Hydrangeas grow well in moist soil that contains organic matter, so make sure you create these conditions by using well-prepared soil and appropriate watering techniques. Your watering frequency will depend on the local climate and the soil type. Always test the soil using the finger test to check whether it is moist before watering it. If the top two  inches of soil are dry, soak it generously. If the soil is still moist to the touch, you can wait a few days and then check it again. 

When it comes to watering your hydrangeas, it is better to give them a good soak less often, rather than regular waterings in smaller amounts, as the latter causes the roots to grow too near the surface and the plants will be more vulnerable to drought. 

Most species of hydrangea thrive in partial shade, and the light that filters through a tree canopy provides the perfect balance of sun and shade. Those plants that are in full sun tend to dry out quickly and may become droopy. Provide protection for your hydrangeas using other plants or trees as a barrier, and water them regularly to prevent dehydration. 

Common hydrangea problems and their symptoms:

• Drooping due to drought, fast-draining soil or too much sun. 
• Leaves turning yellow and drying out from too much direct sunlight.
• Leaves are turning black or brown from exposure to late frost. 
• Dieback of foliage due to transplant shock. 
• Root rot due to saturated soil or pots without proper drainage holes.
• Stunted growth or drooping due to pots that are too small. 
• Drooping or yellowing due to too much fertilizer or manure.

Hydrangea plant care

Hydrangeas do not need any major pruning, but you can prune them to remove old flowers and dead stems, and to improve the plant’s structure or shape. The time and frequency of pruning will depend on the species you are growing. 

Some varieties can tolerate a degree of soil alkalinity, and most prefer well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. The soil composition can also affect the flower colors of some varieties. Mulch the soil with organic materials every year, or add a slow-release fertilizer, watering before and after applying it to the soil. 

Hydrangeas prefer their soil to be kept moist but not saturated with water. Do not allow the soil to dry out; adding mulch can help keep it moist. Those that are kept in containers may need to be watered daily. 

These plants are not usually affected by diseases or insects. However, some species are susceptible to bacterial wilt, leaf spot, bud blight or mildew. Check the plants regularly for any presence of aphids or mites. 

Conclusion 

Hydrangeas are popular plants the world over for their lovely blooms that come in several different colors. These deciduous shrubs can grow from three to 15 feet tall and are very easy to cultivate. They prefer their soil to be kept moist, and are susceptible to the effects of underwatering if neglected for too long. The most common signs of underwatered hydrangeas are droopy and wilted leaves and flowers. To revive them, soak their soil thoroughly with water so that all of the roots can be revived, and avoid placing them in direct sunlight. Going forward, try not to allow the soil to dry out again.  

Image: istockphoto.com / Nicola Ricci

Ponytail palms, also known as bottle palms or elephant foot trees, are native to Eastern Mexico. These plants are succulents and are members of the Agave family, meaning they are neither a palm nor a tree. They have a bulbous trunk and long, hair-like leaves that resemble a ponytail, hence their name. Although these are drought-resistant plants, they are still prone to the effects of underwatering if neglected for too long. 

Underwatered ponytail palm – Signs and how to revive 

Signs of an underwatered ponytail palm 

1. Shrunken bulbs 

A ponytail palm that is watered well will have a full, firm bulb at its base. An underwatered one, meanwhile, will have a base that is wrinkled, deflated and shriveled. This means that the plant’s water reserve has become low. 

2. Limp, droopy leaves 

Underwatered ponytail palms will have droopy and wilted leaves. These plants have naturally recurved leaves, meaning the leaf margin turns downward, so the change may not be immediately evident, but you will notice the leaves are very limp and are hanging lower than usual. 

3. Crispy or brown leaf tips 

Another surefire sign of an underwatered ponytail palm is browning foliage with the discoloration starting at the tips. The leaf blades will be dry and crispy, and will be curling at the edges.

4. Dry soil 

Do the finger test by pushing your fingers into the top of the soil. If the top two to three inches is completely dry, you should give your plant a good watering. If the soil is moist, wait about a week and check it again before watering. 

How to revive an underwatered ponytail palm

To revive an underwatered ponytail palm, place it in a sink filled about four inches deep with water and leave it there for at least 45 minutes. Allow the water to soak through the hole at the base of the pot. Once all of the soil is moist, remove the pot from the sink and let any excess water drain out. You can then return the plant to its usual spot, and be more vigilant with your watering going forward.

How long can a ponytail palm go without water?

A ponytail palm can go up to four weeks without water. This is because the plant has a thick, bulbous trunk that serves as a reservoir to store water for dry spells, making the plant a drought-resistant one. 

How often should a ponytail palm be watered?

The frequency of watering will depend on your local climate and weather conditions, so the best way to know when to water is by using the abovementioned finger test. Press your fingers down into the soil to assess whether it is dry, and if the top two inches are dry, you can water the plant.  During warm weather, your ponytail palm should be watered at least every two to three weeks, while in winter it will be roughly once a month. 

Water the plants well each time, and make sure that any excess water can drain freely from the pot. If the plant is badly underwatered, give it a thorough soak so it can bounce back to health again. 

Other reasons your ponytail palm may be dying

Aside from being underwatered, other reasons your ponytail palm may be dying include low-quality fertilizers or low-quality soil. It could also be due to fertilizer being placed too close to the roots. Too much or too little sunlight, or planting the palm at the wrong depth, could also affect its overall health. 

Ponytail palm care 

Ponytail palms do best in dry soil, and like to become slightly rootbound before being repotted. When repotting, use pots that are an inch or two wider than the previous ones. If you use pots that are too large, there is more space for excess water to remain stagnant around the roots, resulting in root rot and other diseases.  

These plants only need to be fertilized three times a year. They are low-maintenance houseplants, adding to the aesthetic of homes and offices. 

Conclusion 

Ponytail palms are also called bottle palms or elephant foot trees. Native to Eastern Mexico, they are actually succulents, rather than trees or palms. Despite being succulents, they will suffer the effects of underwatering if neglected for too long, and the signs of this include droopy leaves, shrinking bulbs and dry soil. 

To revive an underwatered ponytail palm, give it a long and thorough soak in a sink full of water. Soak it for at least 45 minutes so that all of the soil is moist and all the roots have had access to water. Then, allow the excess water to drain from the pot before returning the plant to its usual spot. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Bilal photos

For most plants, repotting is typically done every one to two years. Exceptions include slow-growing plants such as succulents, which only need repotting every three to five years.

As a plant owner, you need to be attentive to the needs of each individual plant and know the signs to look out for in case the plant needs to be transferred to a larger pot.

In this article, we will discuss more how often one should repot houseplants, why they need to be repotted, and how to properly repot a houseplant.

If you are thinking about repotting your plants and you want to learn more, keep reading.

Why is it necessary to repot a houseplant?

The plant is unable to grow bigger in a small pot

Basically, when the plant has become too big for its pot, its roots will no longer have space to grow and develop. The plant will stay only as big as the pot allows until it is mercifully transferred to a larger pot. No matter how hard the plant tries to grow, its new leaves and roots will only end up suffocating it, so it will start to actively refrain from growing, which is why stunted growth is one of the signs that a plant needs repotting.

Compare your potted plant to one that grows in the ground: A plant in the ground will not have the space constraints nor the nutritional restrictions that a potted plant does.

The soil needs to be changed

Another reason repotting is necessary is that the soil in the pot is no longer doing the plant any good. It may be contaminated with bacteria or fungi that cause root rot, it may no longer be sufficiently well-draining and thus cause the plant to become overwatered, pests may have overtaken the soil, or it might have been in the pot for so long that it is depleted of essential nutrients and minerals.

Even if the size of the pot is not an issue, the soil itself may need to be changed for the well-being of the plant.

The old pot is too small to propagate the plant in

Some plant owners like to root their cuttings in the same pot as the mother plant before moving it to its own pot. If the mother plant’s pot is already quite snug just for the mother plant, then you will not be able to use the same pot to grow your cuttings. It will become too crowded, which will affect not only the overall health of the cuttings but of the mother plant as well.

How often to repot plants

Most houseplants usually need to be repotted once a year or once every two years. This is true for plants that are transferred to a pot one size bigger than the previous one.

Houseplants that are well cared for will grow fast, and if the need to repot arises quickly for you, it means you are doing most things, if not everything, right by your plants. You should be ecstatic that your plants constantly need repotting, because it means they are happy and healthy.

Plants that are slow-growing, like most succulents, only need to be repotted every three to five years. If you are the type of person that may not have the time to look after fast-growing plants, then maybe succulents are more your speed.

There really is no set time frame to follow when it comes to repotting your plant. The best way to know is to look out for signs that the plant needs repotting.

How will I know when my plant needs to be repotted?

As mentioned above, you cannot just follow a schedule to know exactly when to repot your plant. If you do this and are repotting all of your plants once a year just because one or two plants look like they need it, you are putting your other plants through unnecessary stress that will take a toll on their general well-being.

Research each of your plants first, and read about the signs to look out for to know that that specific plant really does need repotting.

Signs that your plant needs to be repotted

Your plant is not no longer growing outward

One of the signs that your plant needs to be repotted is when it no longer seems to be growing sideways but is just getting taller. This may be because the roots in the pot no longer have space to grow into. This pushes the plant upward, creating the illusion that the plant is growing, but in reality it is just being pushed out of the pot by the overgrown roots. 

The drainage holes at the bottom of the pot are blocked by roots

Another sign that your plant needs repotting is when you can see roots growing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This means there is literally no space left inside the pot for the new roots to fill, so they grow out of the drainage holes to try and reach more soil. A secondary issue caused by this blockage is that excess water is prevented from flowing out of the holes. The water will stay in the soil around the roots and this can lead to root rot.

You can test whether the holes are blocked by watering the plant and waiting for the excess water to flow out of them. If, despite pouring plenty of water into the soil, there is still no water flowing from the drainage holes, that is a good indication that the pot is full of roots and will need to be repotted.

Your plant is becoming too big

Sometimes you can just look at your plant and see that the pot seems dwarfed by the actual plant. This is a clear sign that the pot is way too small. You need to repot the plant as soon as possible because it might become top-heavy and end up tipping over, possibly even cracking the pot because of the overgrown roots.

The soil is compacted

The longer the same soil is kept in the pot, the more compacted it will become. Compacted soil makes watering the plant much more difficult because it can become almost hydrophobic, meaning it will be extremely difficult for water to penetrate it. If you pour water on top of compacted soil, it will stay on top of the soil until it evaporates, and only very little water will actually penetrate the soil. The wet top layer of soil can fool plant owners into thinking that the soil has been properly soaked, even if not more than the top inch got wet.

You need to change compacted soil as soon as possible because fresh, loose soil will make the plant much happier.

Some people try to just add more soil to the top of the compacted soil thinking that this will fix the problem, but this will actually make the already-compacted soil even more compact.

Mineral buildup in the soil

If you regularly fertilize your plants, there will likely be a significant buildup of nutrients and minerals in the soil. Most of this buildup is on the surface and will look like a crusty layer on top of the soil. This layer will keep the water from penetrating the soil and the roots will not get the water they need. This can lead to the plant becoming underwatered and possibly dying.

What time of year is best for repotting?

Most plants actively grow during the summer and it is best not to disrupt this by repotting the plant. This is especially true for plants that are slow-growing.

However, repotting during the winter is also not advisable, because most plants are dormant during this period. Remember that repotting is a stressful experience for the plant, so repotting it when it is not actively growing also means that its recovery will take a lot longer.

Ideally, repot the plant during the tail-end of winter or the start of spring, so that it can recover well without interrupting its main growth period.

How to repot a plant

First, you need to prepare a new pot that is the right size for the plant. If the old pot is still big enough and all you need to do is to replace the soil, then reusing the old pot is perfectly fine.

However, if the plant does need a larger pot, pick one that is two to four inches bigger in diameter than the old pot. Just make sure the new pot is not too big, because a larger pot means more soil, and more soil means more water is retained. This means that the soil will be wetter for longer, which can lead to overwatering and even root rot.

After you have chosen a new pot, water the plant the night before you plan to repot it. This way, the plant is well-hydrated and happy before putting it through the stressful process of repotting.

The next day, lay the plant down on one side and use an old knife to loosen the soil from the sides of the pot. Gently pull the plant out of the old pot, doing as little damage as possible to the roots. Ironically, the more rootbound the plant, the easier it is to pull it out of its old pot because the entire root mass will be clumped together.

Clear away as much of the old soil as possible and find the root ball beneath the soil. If there are any roots that are brown, black, mushy or dry, you need to remove them with a sterilized knife or scissors. If the root mass is too large, trim it using a saw so that the roots can fit inside the new pot.

Place the plant in the new pot and hold it in the pot’s center. Fill the gaps around the roots with fresh soil until the soil comes up to near the rim of the pot. Gently press the soil down, but do not pack it in because plants like their soil to be loose and airy. 

Lastly, water the newly repotted plant and place it in a spot where it can get the levels of light it needs.

Conclusion

Most plants usually need to be repotted every one or two years. This is, of course, dependent on the type of plant, and you should do your research to know the average time between repotting for your specific plant.

Plants that are slow-growing often only need repotting every three to five years.

The need for repotting is based more on the current state of the plant in its pot rather than a fixed number of years. It is, therefore, better to know the signs of a plant that needs repotting than it is to just repot the plant on a fixed date.

Image: istockphoto.com / deniskomarov

If your orchid’s leaves are wrinkled, it means there is a problem either within the plant or in the plant’s living conditions that will need to be addressed and resolved. The cause of the wrinkled leaves can be benign, or it can be something serious that may cause a rapid decline in the plant’s health, and possibly even death.

The possible causes of wrinkled orchid leaves include damaged roots, too much water, not enough water, hot temperatures, insufficient or too much light, disease, and nutrient deficiencies.

In this article, we will discuss the different causes of wrinkled orchid leaves and what you can do to remedy it. So if you are having this problem with your orchid plants at home and wish to learn more, just keep on reading.

What do healthy orchid leaves look like?

Before we discuss the causes of the abnormal wrinkling of orchid leaves, let us first understand what healthy orchids look like, so that we know when the leaves are unhealthy just by looking at them.

Healthy orchid leaves are bright olive-green; not quite the same as other plants, which have light or dark green leaves. Healthy orchid leaves are sturdy and plump, and stick out from the stem of the plant with no problem. The leaves should not be droopy, and they should be smooth with no pleats or wrinkles on them. 

Why are my orchid’s leaves wrinkled?

Damaged roots

One of the most common causes of wrinkled orchid leaves is damaged roots. When an orchid’s roots are damaged, they are unable to do their job effectively, which is to absorb water and nutrients to keep the plant alive. Because most orchids are epiphytic and their roots are therefore exposed, they are more vulnerable than the roots of most plants. Roots are important to the plant’s survival, and they need to be protected at all times. If you are not careful, you may damage the roots simply by repotting the plant or moving it to a different location. Always be gentle when you handle an orchid plant – or any plant, for that matter.

Too much water

If you unknowingly overwater your orchid, this can cause its leaves to wrinkle as well. If you keep the plant outdoors, it may get too much rain if it is not under some kind of canopy. However, even indoor orchids can get overwatered. If you keep a tray under the plant’s pot and forget to empty the excess water in the tray, the water can be reabsorbed by the potting medium and this means the roots will stand in a soggy potting medium for long periods of time. This can lead to root rot, which damages the roots significantly and affects their ability to provide water and nutrients to the plant.

Not enough water

If you neglect your orchid’s watering needs and it ends up underwatered or dehydrated, this will damage the roots. Damaged roots are unable to absorb water and nutrients effectively, which will affect the health of the orchid and cause drooping, shriveled roots, yellowing leaves, and wrinkled foliage.

Fortunately, dehydrated orchids are much easier to salvage than those that have been overwatered. If you are able to catch the dehydration in its early stages, just start watering the plant regularly or, more specifically, when the potting medium is dry to the touch. The plant should be able to recover after a few days of normal watering.

Hot temperatures

Even though orchids are tropical plants, they cannot be exposed to elevated temperatures for extended periods. Avoid exposing the plant to temperatures above 75 degrees Fahrenheit for several hours of the day, or it will dry out quickly and the leaves will start to wrinkle as they lose their water stores.

Orchids will naturally lose moisture from their leaves through transpiration, but this happens in a balanced manner when the temperature is stable and not in the extremes.

Not enough or too much light

The best kind of light for your orchid is bright and indirect. Never expose the plant to direct sunlight, because this can cause the plant to dry out and droop, and the leaves to wrinkle.

The sun damage suffered by the leaves from too much light can affect the plant’s ability to photosynthesize, which will affect its overall health and may stunt its growth.

Inversely, keeping the plant in low light conditions can also cause its leaves to discolor and wrinkle. The key to keeping your orchid happy is finding the right balance of light exposure for it.

Disease

Fungi and bacteria can also cause your orchid’s leaves to become wrinkled. This is because they attack the roots and eventually the foliage of the plant, and the more damage is incurred, the weaker and less healthy the plant becomes. This stress will manifest as wrinkles on the plant’s leaves.

Not enough nutrients

When your orchid is not getting all the nutrients it needs, this can result in poor growth and wrinkled leaves. You may need to feed the plant more often to supply it with the nutrients it is lacking. Choose a fertilizer that contains boron, potassium, and zinc, because these are essential to keep the orchid’s leaves healthy.

How can I fix my orchid’s wrinkled leaves?

Get rid of pests and treat disease

If pests or diseases are the cause of the wrinkled leaves, you need to check the entire plant for their presence and to note which parts of the plant have been affected.

Treat a fungal infection with a fungicide, or use hydrogen peroxide. Do not forget to change the soil and the pot, because they will be harboring pathogens that could lead to reinfection.

If the plant has pests, like aphids, you can use a garden hose to knock the insects off with a jet of water, or you can use an insecticide made specifically for orchids.

Whether the plant is afflicted with pests or disease, make sure you keep it quarantined and away from your healthy plants so that they do not get infected.

Replace the potting mix

If the orchid has wrinkled leaves because of a poorly-draining potting mix, you need to change it. Use an orchid mix that contains bark, perlite and sphagnum moss.

Make sure the pot is large enough to accommodate the roots of your orchid because a pot that is too small can damage the plant’s roots.

Good watering techniques

Because both overwatering and underwatering can cause orchid leaves to become wrinkled, you should review your watering techniques and correct any mistakes you may be making.

Some changes you can make are watering the plant in the morning as opposed to the evening, making sure the excess water is flowing properly out of the pot’s drainage holes, not giving the plant water that is too cold, and making sure you do not give it more water than it needs.

Before watering, always check the potting medium. If the top two inches of potting medium are dry, water the orchid, but if the potting medium is still damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

Inspect and treat the roots

If you want to be sure that your plant is 100 percent healthy, you will need to check its roots. Remove the plant from the pot, inspect the roots, and note whether they are brittle and dry. If so, they are underwatered.

If the roots are soft and soggy or have turned brown or black, this may be due to root rot and you will need to cut away the affected roots to prevent the rot from spreading to the rest of the plant. Use sterilized pruning shears to cut off the rotten roots, spray the remaining healthy roots with fungicide, and allow the plant to dry out for a few hours before repotting it in a new pot with a fresh potting medium.

Keep the plant in indirect light

If you suspect that the wrinkled leaves are due to incorrect light exposure, move the plant to a spot where it can get bright, indirect light for most of the day. Near a north- or east-facing window is ideal, but if the only window available is letting in harsh light, diffuse it by placing a sheer curtain over the window.

In the winter, when light is scarce, you may need to use a grow light to help the orchid get its daily dose of light and keep it wrinkle-free.

Feed the plant

If the cause of the wrinkled leaves is a nutrient deficiency, feed the orchid with a balanced nitrogen fertilizer. Half-strength is recommended so that you do not end up causing a buildup of minerals in the potting medium and around the plant’s roots.

Conclusion

Wrinkled orchid leaves are an indication of a problem caused by an environmental factor, and this can be benign or serious enough to kill the plant within a matter of days.

The most common causes of wrinkled leaves in orchids are damaged roots, too much water, not enough water, hot temperatures, not enough or too much light, pests and disease, or nutrient deficiency.

Correctly identifying the cause of the problem is the first step in fixing it promptly.

Save your plant by getting rid of pests and disease, ensuring that the potting mix is well-draining, correcting any faulty watering techniques, inspecting and treating the roots, giving the plant lots of bright, indirect light, and fertilizing it if necessary to replenish the nutrients in the potting medium.

Fixing the problem without delay will return the plant to perfect health and save its overall aesthetic.

Image: istockphoto.com / Olga Evtushkova

Peperomia plants are very popular houseplants because of their reputation for being low-maintenance. They are very hardy, can tolerate a bit of drought, and do well indoors.

If peperomia leaves are wrinkled, however, that means there is an environmental factor causing this change. The plant is stressed and you need to identify the cause as soon as possible in order to treat the plant properly. The faster you identify the problem, the faster the peperomia’s recovery will be.

The most common causes of wrinkled peperomia leaves are too much water or root rot, not enough water, not enough light, repotting stress, temperature problems and insufficient nutrients.

In this article, we will discuss the different causes of wrinkled peperomia leaves and how to remedy each.

Why are my peperomia’s leaves wrinkled?

Too much water, or root rot

One of the biggest mistakes a peperomia owner can make is to overwater the plant. Overwatering can happen if you give the plant too much water each time you water it, or if you water it more frequently than it needs. It can also be that the soil in the pot is too dense or compact, or the pot you are using does not have drainage holes at the bottom. All of these circumstances cause the roots of the peperomia to stand in waterlogged soil. The roots will drown because they cannot dry out for long enough to absorb oxygen. The dead roots will then become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens, such as fungi and bacteria. The roots will start to rot, and the rot will spread to the rest of the plant at an accelerated pace because of the presence of the pathogens. As the rot reaches the stems and leaves, they will become brown, wrinkled, soft and mushy.

The compromised roots will be unable to perform their main function of absorbing water and nutrients from the soil to keep the plant alive, so the entire plant will soon succumb to root rot.

Save your overwatered plant from root rot by immediately holding off from watering it. Remove it from the pot and wash as much of the old, contaminated soil from the roots as you can. Be gentle when washing the roots, because they will be fragile. Inspect the roots closely and remove all the brown and black rotten roots using a sharp, sterilized knife or pruning shears. Spray the remaining healthy roots with fungicide and let them air-dry for a few hours. When the roots have dried, replant the peperomia in a pot with drainage holes, using well-draining potting soil.

Not enough water

Although peperomias can tolerate a little drought, that does not mean you can just neglect to water them. If the plant does not get enough water, it could dry out from lack of moisture and its leaves will become wrinkled.

You will know the plant is underwatered if the leaves are turning yellow or brown, and are wrinkled and drooping. The soil in the pot will often be bone dry when you touch it. There may be cracks in the soil, or the edges of the soil might be pulling away from the pot because all of the moisture is gone.

Save your underwatered peperomia by soaking the pot in a basin with four inches of lukewarm water. Let the plant soak for 30 to 45 minutes, or until the water has reached the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the soil is too compact, loosen it up with your hands or with a spade. Compact soil will not be as easily permeated by water as loose soil will be. After soaking, take the pot from the basin and let any excess water drain out before replacing the plant in its usual spot.

To avoid underwatering, you should know when to water your plant. There is no set schedule that you can follow blindly; rather, the best and easiest way of knowing is to stick your finger into the soil in the pot. If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two more days before checking it again.

When watering the plant, make sure you soak all of the soil in the pot. You will know this is done when the excess water starts to flow from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

Remember to adjust your watering frequency according to the climate where you live, the season of the year, and the current weather conditions. If you live in a cold place, and it is winter with lots of rainfall, you do not need to water your peperomia as much as someone who lives in a warmer climate, during the summer with little to no rainfall.

If the humidity in your home is a little low, keep the plant in the kitchen, bathroom or laundry room because these are the places that have the most humidity. You can also mist the plant once in a while, or place the pot on top of a pebble tray filled with water. When the water in the tray evaporates, the plant’s leaves and soil will be moistened. You could also just buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity around the plant.

Insufficient light

Another reason your plant’s leaves may be wrinkled is if it is not getting enough light. This plant likes bright, indirect light, just like it gets in its natural habitat.

If the plant does not get enough light, its leaves will droop, wrinkle and curl because it is unable to properly photosynthesize. It will also tend to become leggy, due to its desperation to reach the closest source of light.

Fix this problem by simply moving the plant to a spot where it can get a lot of bright, indirect light. Place it near a north- or east-facing window, but if the only window available is one that lets in harsh light, place a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the light. Also avoid placing the plant in a place where it only gets direct light, because this can lead to sun damage that will be detrimental.

In the winter, when light is scarce, use a grow light to support your plant.

Repotting stress

Repotting can be a stressful experience for the plant, so do not be surprised if the leaves start to wrinkle a few days afterward. This is because the roots have undergone something traumatic and will need some time to adjust to the new soil.

Repot the plant only when absolutely necessary, and only when the plant is 100 percent healthy. Delay repotting for plants that are not completely healthy, because the repotting will only add to the stress of an already compromised plant.

Temperature issues

The leaves on the peperomia will also become wrinkled if the plant is exposed to cold temperatures.

If you keep the plant outdoors, bring it inside during the colder months of fall and winter so that it is not exposed to frost.

While indoors, keep the plant away from air conditioners or windows and doors that may allow cold drafts to pass through cracks and directly hit the plant. The cold air will dry out the plant’s leaves very quickly.

Also refrain from placing the plant under heating vents or next to radiators and furnaces, because the warm drafts and increased temperatures will also dry its leaves and cause them to wrinkle.

Nutrient deficiency

A lack of nutrients from the soil can cause the plant’s leaves to wrinkle. A plant needs certain nutrients and minerals to stay healthy, so although the peperomia is not a heavy feeder, you might need to fertilize it, especially if the soil has become depleted. Use a fertilizer that is designed specifically for houseplants and apply it in the spring and summer when the plant is actively growing.

Be careful that you do not overfeed the plant because this can lead to soil toxicity. This is when there is a buildup of minerals in the soil due to too much fertilizer. You can flush out the excess fertilizer by letting plenty of water flow through the soil until it starts flowing through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Overfeeding can also cause wrinkling of the plant’s leaves.

Conclusion

Wrinkled peperomia leaves are an indication of stress due to one or more environmental factors. The stressor can be too much water or root rot, not enough water, not enough light, repotting stress, temperature issues, or insufficient nutrients. The best way to approach the treatment of the plant is to correctly identify the cause of the problem. The faster the problem is dealt with, the faster the plant can recover.

Image: istockphoto.com / Jamaludin Yusup

The money tree is one of the most popular indoor plants, thanks to how easy it is to grow and care for. It is hardy and resilient, and a great choice for beginners looking for easy plants to grow.

If an environmental factor is negatively affecting the plant, or if its needs are not entirely met, it may display signs of distress, such as the wrinkling of its leaves.

The most common causes of wrinkled money tree leaves are poor watering technique, insufficient light, pests, humidity and temperature problems, pot size, transplant or repotting stress, and changes in season.

In this article, we will discuss each of these different causes and how to remedy each one.

Why are the leaves on my money tree wrinkled?

Poor watering technique

If you are not giving the plant the right amount of water, or if you do not know exactly when it needs to be watered, the plant will be unhappy. Wrinkled leaves are one of the signs that you are watering it incorrectly.

Your plant can be underwatered because you are not giving it enough water per watering session, or you are not watering it as frequently as you should. Underwatering can also come about through failure to adjust your watering schedule to the current season, or using potting soil that is too loose and drains water too quickly. Placing the plant in a spot where it gets too much sun will also dry out the soil in the pot very fast, which can also lead to underwatering.

Overwatering, on the other hand, is another watering mistake that plant owners make. It is fairly common, especially for beginners, to be overzealous when it comes to watering their plants. You may mean well, but you have no idea that you are actually doing your plant more harm than good. When the soil in the pot is constantly waterlogged and soggy, the roots are unable to access oxygen and will drown. The drowned roots will die and start to rot, and will no longer be able to effectively absorb water and nutrients to feed the plant. This lack of water and nutrients will lead to impaired functions, such as photosynthesis, further weakening the plant. The leaves will start to droop, wrinkle and turn yellow. Aside from this, the compromised roots will also be susceptible to opportunistic pathogens that will exacerbate the rot in the roots. It will spread even faster to other parts of the plant until the entire plant is consumed by rot.

If your plant is underwatered, soak the soil with water immediately. Continue watering until excess water starts to flow out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This is to ensure that all of the roots have access to water. For the next few days, water the plant more frequently than normal, but only until it has recovered.

If your plant is overwatered, do not give it any more water for a couple of days until the soil has completely dried out, so that the roots can dry out as well. Place the plant in a warmer or drier place if you can, to hasten the drying process.

If you suspect root rot in your overwatered plant, especially if the stems and leaves have started to turn yellow, soft and mushy, you may need to remove the plant from the pot to inspect the roots. Wash off as much as possible of the old, contaminated soil from the roots, as gently as you can. If there are any brown or black roots, you will need to remove them using a sterilized knife or pair of scissors. Spray the remaining healthy roots with fungicide and allow the plant to air-dry for a few hours. When the roots are dry, fill a pot with well-draining potting soil, and ensure the pot has drainage holes. Replant the money tree, making sure the soil is not too dense or compact.

After the plant has recovered from either underwatering or overwatering, the best way to avoid further watering issues is to check the soil in the pot before you water it. If the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Insufficient light

Plants need light to photosynthesize and produce food for themselves. So, if you are keeping the plant in low light conditions, you are making it suffer and essentially starving it. The low energy and inability to produce food will cause the leaves to wrinkle. You will also notice that the plant becomes leggy, meaning that some stems will start to grow longer and thinner than others. This is the plant’s way of reaching towards the closest source of light, out of desperation.

Money trees are used to getting plenty of light in their natural habitat, so the best thing is to try to simulate that experience in your home. This is not to say you should place your plant outside under direct sunlight because too much direct sunlight leads to sun damage.

If you are keeping the plant outside, place it under a garden net or under the shade of a large tree. If you keep it indoors, place it near a north- or east-facing window. If the only available window lets in very harsh light, you can diffuse this light by placing a sheer curtain over the window. Remember to rotate the pot every couple of days so all sides of the plant get their fair share of sunlight.

In the winter, when light is scarce, use grow lights to support the plant’s light requirements.

Pests

A pest infestation can also cause the money tree’s leaves to become wrinkled. The wrinkling is more often seen when the infestation has become quite severe.

The most common pests that attack money trees are thrips, scale insects, mealybugs and spider mites.

It is important to check your plant for pests every time you water it, so that you can catch any infestation in its early stages. The longer you allow the pests to reproduce and multiply on your plant, the more damage they will inflict. These pests cause wrinkling when they feed on the sap, or juices, of the plant’s leaves. When the leaves lose their moisture and nutrients, that is when they wrinkle and curl.

Remove these pests by making a solution of one tablespoon of neem oil and a gallon of water and spraying it on the plant. You can also use a cotton ball soaked with rubbing alcohol to wipe down the leaves. Another option is a pesticide, but make sure it is safe to use on your money tree. Repeat the treatment once a week for a month to make sure that all of the pests have been eradicated.

Remember to keep the infested plant far away from your other healthy plants so that the pests do not spread while you treat the infestation.

Humidity and temperature problems

The money tree’s natural habitat is the rainforests of some South American countries, meaning that they are used to warmer weather and higher humidity than normal. To keep your plant healthy and happy, try to keep the temperature and humidity around it as close as you can to what it might experience in the wild.

The humidity needs to be above 50 percent and the temperature between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If the plant is kept in low humidity, dry air, or temperatures in the extremes, this can result in the wrinkling of its leaves.

If the humidity is a little low, you can mist the plant with water once in a while. You can also place the plant’s pot on top of a pebble tray filled with water. When the water in the tray evaporates, it moistens the soil in the pot as well as the plant’s leaves. You can also group the plant together with other plants that enjoy humidity so that together they can create a microclimate around themselves. You could also just purchase a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in the room.

In the summer, when it is too hot outside, place the plant in a shaded area or under a garden net. During winter, take the plant indoors so that it is not exposed to frost. While indoors, keep the plant away from heating vents, furnaces, radiators or air conditioners. The drafts and extreme temperatures from these can also dry out the plant and cause wrinkling. Also make sure that the plant is not too close to doors or windows that lead to the outdoors, because cold drafts can get through the cracks and will also dry the plant.

Pot size

Pots that are either too small or too big can cause your plant’s leaves to wrinkle.

If the pot is too small, the plant will become rootbound. When the roots are pressed up against each other, they will not be able to effectively absorb the nutrients and the water they need from the soil.

When the pot is too big, you will need more soil to fill the pot. More soil means more water is absorbed, and when more water is retained, there is a greater chance of overwatering and possibly root rot. 

It may be tempting to use a bigger pot so that you do not need to repot as often, but ideally, you should use a pot that is only two inches larger than the actual plant. If the roots start becoming crowded and you need to repot the plant, choose a pot just one size larger than the current one. You will know the plant is rootbound when the roots start growing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. The plant’s growth will also slow down and become stunted.

Avoid using plastic or steel pots; choose clay or terracotta pots instead. Clay and terracotta are more porous materials and will allow oxygen to penetrate them and reach the soil more easily. Plastic and steel will keep water in the soil for longer, and will not allow oxygen to pass through.

Transplant and repotting stress

When a money tree is grown in a greenhouse or nursery before it is sold, its living conditions are ideal and as close to its natural habitat as possible. When you take the plant home, remember that the moment it leaves the store, its conditions are completely different. The temperature, humidity, watering and lighting conditions will be very different in your home than they were in the nursery.

These environmental changes will stress the plant and one of its responses to the stress is the wrinkling of its leaves.

Repotting the plant can also cause a stress response such as wrinkled leaves because it is traumatic to the roots. Do not be surprised if the plant’s leaves droop and wrinkle when it has just been repotted. 

Whether you have just taken a plant home from the store or you have just repotted it, the best way to help the plant recover from the stress is by supporting it with the best possible growing conditions. Keep it away from extreme temperatures and humidity, water it properly, give it lots of bright, indirect light, and keep it away from pests that may damage it.

Changes in season 

Another reason your money tree’s leaves may wrinkle is a change in season. Just because the cultural care you provide in the summer is working for the plant, that does not mean the same conditions will work throughout the year.

The plant will want more water in the summer and will need a lot less during the winter. You can fertilize the plant in the summer but refrain from doing so in winter.

As mentioned above, place a grow light over the plant in the winter to provide it with the light it needs when natural sunlight is scarce.

The key is to help the plant adapt to any changes in conditions.

Conclusion

The money tree is a popular houseplant because it is easy to grow and care for. It is hardy and resilient and does not need very close attention for it to be happy. 

When the leaves of the money tree are wrinkled, it means that there are one or more environmental factors causing the plant stress. You need to correctly identify the cause of the problem to resolve it properly.

The most common causes of wrinkled money tree leaves are poor watering techniques, insufficient light, pests, humidity and temperature problems, incorrect pot size, transplant or repotting stress, and changes in season.

Learn to adapt to the changes around the plant so that you can save it from unnecessary stress that will affect its overall health. The sooner the cause of the problem is addressed, the faster the plant will be able to recover and return to its former glory.

Image: istockphoto.com / Stanislavchyk_Misha

African violets, with the botanical name Saintpaulia, are popular houseplants with furry leaves and clusters of blue, white, pink or purple flowers. These plants are native to the tropical rainforests of Tanzania and Kenya in East Africa. They are not actually a type of violet, but are so named for the resemblance of their flowers to true violets. These plants are low-light tolerant hardy but, like most plants, they can still be prone to underwatering.

Underwatered African violet – Signs and how to revive 

Signs of an underwatered African violet 

1. Downward-curling, droopy and dull leaves 

Underwatered plants become dehydrated due to a prolonged lack of moisture in the plant tissue. The leaves will contract and curl, and they will look droopy and dull. 

Other causes of droopy leaves: 

• Excessive heat
• Overfertilization 
• Cold temperatures

2. Frail foliage 

Underwatered African violets will develop dull, crisp foliage, for the same reasons mentioned above.

3. Dry soil 

Crumbly, bone-dry soil is an indication that the plants have depleted all the moisture from their environment, and that moisture has been lacking for some time. 

4. A soil gap 

When a plant is chronically underwatered, the soil will not only dry out but will shrink and pull away from the pot’s sides. You will notice a gap between the edge of the soil and the inside of the pot.

5. A very light pot 

If you lift your plant’s pot and it feels very light, this is another indication that there is a complete absence of moisture in the soil.

How to revive an underwatered African violet 

The most effective way to revive underwatered African violets is to give them a proper soak in water. However, avoid over-drenching the plants, because while your intentions may be good, this could lead to overwatering instead. Ideally, you should water the plants from the bottom, by placing them in a sink or basin of water and allowing the water to penetrate the soil from the bottom up. When you remove the pot from the water after soaking it, allow any excess water to drip out of the drainage holes before replacing the pot in its usual spot. 

African violet  plant care 

African violets thrive in bright, indirect light and should be kept several feet away from south- or west-facing windows that let in very bright light. To prevent sun damage to the foliage, rather place them near east- or north-facing windows. To supplement natural lighting, you can also use fluorescent or LED bulbs. If the plant’s leaves are very dark green it may be getting too little light, while plants with light green leaves have been exposed to too much light.

These plants prefer soil that is always slightly moist, but also be careful not to overwater them. Use room-temperature water and be sure to water them from the bottom, so that no water is left to sit on the foliage. This is because, if the plant is kept in highly humid conditions, the leaves will be susceptible to rot and fungal spots.

Fertilize the plants every two weeks with a high-phosphorus plant food during the growing seasons of spring and summer. Start fertilizing if you notice slow or thin growth, or pale or yellowing leaves. Over-fertilizing is a more common problem than under-fertilizing, because soil mixes are already high in nutrients. 

Most African violet varieties prefer warm temperatures of around 65 degrees Fahrenheit, although some are tolerant of cooler conditions. During winter, keep them away from drafty windows. Repot the plants if their leaves start to wilt, using larger pots as the plants grow bigger.  

Brush the leaves gently with a small, soft-bristled brush to clean off any dust and dirt. Also check for pests whenever you water your plants, so that you can catch any infestation early and eradicate it fast and effectively.

Common pests and diseases of African violets:

• Spider mites 
• Cyclamen mites 
• Powdery mildew
• Rot and blight 

How to water African violets

To water the plant from the top, use a small cup or a watering can with a skinny spout. Fill the can or cup with room-temperature water and water the soil carefully from above. Gently push a few leaves to the side and water the soil through that space. Do not splash water on the crown, leaves, stems or flowers. 

Avoid using cold or hot water; use only room-temperature water. After watering the plant, wait a few minutes until the excess water has drained from the bottom of the pot. Discard all excess water and return the plant to its original spot. 

If you water the plant from the bottom, fill a tray, bowl or saucer with room-temperature water and sit the plant in the water. See to it that one inch of the pot’s bottom is submerged in water. After about 20 minutes, check if the top of the plant’s soil has been moistened; this means that all of the soil and roots have had access to water.  

Discard the excess water from the tray, bowl or saucer, but if there is no water left you can add more and allow the plant to sit for another 10 minutes. After about 10 minutes, discard the excess water and put the plant back in its original spot. 

Conclusion

African violets, native to East Africa, are some of the most popular flowering houseplants in the world, because they are low-maintenance and bloom year-round. They are easy to grow, with no special temperature requirements. However, like most plants, they are prone to underwatering if neglected for too long. The common signs of underwatering are curling, droopy and wilted leaves. 

To revive an underwatered African violet, give it a good soak in a basin of water until all of the soil and roots have had access to water and can rehydrate. Ideally, watering should be done from the bottom of the pot to avoid getting the foliage wet.

Image: istockphoto.com / monica-photo

Hostas are perennial plants that are long-living, low-maintenance and quite easy to grow and care for. These plants will grow pretty much anywhere, as long as they are not exposed to direct light for long periods. They can grow indoors or outdoors, and make a great addition to your garden or as an indoor plant to help brighten your living space.

If you hosta’s leaves suddenly appear wrinkled, this is most likely due to an environmental factor that is causing the plant stress. The cause can be as benign as the plant getting a little more sun than it needs, or it can be so overwatered that it now has root rot. The first step in resolving the problem is to correctly identify what caused it in the first place.

The most common causes of wrinkled hosta leaves are overwatering, underwatering, too much light, not enough light, humidity, temperature, pests, and transplant or repotting stress.

In this article, we will discuss the different causes of wrinkled hosta leaves and how to remedy each.

Why are my hosta leaves wrinkled?

1. Overwatering

One of the most common mistakes hosta owners make is overwatering their plant. This can be done by giving the plant more water than it needs each time you water it, watering it more often than needed, not adjusting the watering schedule to the change of season, using a pot without drainage holes, or using poorly-draining soil. All of these circumstances result in the plant’s roots standing in waterlogged soil for extended periods of time.

When the plant’s roots stand constantly in soggy soil, they are unable to dry out between waterings. Without drying out, they do not get access to oxygen, which they need to survive. They will drown and die, and will no longer absorb water and nutrients from the soil to feed the plant. This leads to an overall decline in the plant’s health, hence the wrinkled and curled leaves.

If the plant is overwatered for weeks on end, the dead roots will start to rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens in the soil. These pathogens will make the rot more aggressive, and it will spread even faster to the rest of the plant. Before you know it, the stems and leaves will be soft, mushy and wrinkled, and there will be next to no chance of salvaging the plant. At this point, it is less trouble to simply discard the plant and to start over with a completely new hosta plant.

If you are fortunate enough to catch the overwatering in its early stages, all you have to do is stop watering the plant immediately and allow the soil to dry out completely. Drying out the soil will dry out the roots as well, and this will give the plant the time and oxygen it needs to recover.

If you suspect root rot, you will need to remove the plant from the pot and shake off as much of the old soil as you can, because that soil is contaminated. Be gentle as you do this, because the roots are very fragile at this stage. Inspect the roots and cut off any brown or black ones, because those are rotten. Use a sterilized knife or scissors to do this, so that disease is not spread to the healthy roots. Spray the remaining roots with fungicide and let the plant air-dry for several hours. After the plant has dried out, replant it in a new pot that has drainage holes at the bottom, using well-draining potting soil.

2. Underwatering

Another reason your hosta leaves may be wrinkled is if you have been neglecting its watering needs for too long. Hosta plants can tolerate a certain level of drought, but only up to a point. If the plant’s soil is always dry, there will be no water for the roots to use as a transport system to absorb the plant’s required nutrients. The plant also needs moisture in its stems and leaves to keep it rigid and sturdy.

If the plant has a limited amount of water and does not know when the next rainfall will come, it will ensure its survival by conserving its stored water for its most essential parts. In a plant’s case, the most important parts are the roots, and the least important are the leaves and other foliage. The result is wrinkled, curling leaves, because these are purposefully being deprived of water that will be used for the roots to keep the plant alive as long as possible.

If your hosta is severely underwatered, you can save it by soaking all of its soil with water as soon as possible. Flush the soil with water until the excess flows out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Sometimes, if the soil has been dry for too long, it will harden and become almost hydrophobic. If this is the case, you may need to loosen the soil up first so that the water is able to penetrate it more easily. In the days and weeks to follow, you might have to water the plant more frequently than normal, just until it is able to recover completely. Once the plant has recovered, you can go back to watering it only when you need to.

To avoid over- or underwatering your hosta plant, it is best to check the soil first. Touch the top two inches of soil with your finger. If the soil is dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Also learn to take note of your local climate, the season of the year and the current weather conditions. Adjust your watering frequency accordingly, every time you water the plant.

3. Too much light

As mentioned above, these plants grow well outdoors as long as you do not place them under direct light for long periods of time. If you leave the plant under the hot sun, this can lead to considerable sun damage such as dried-out leaves due to increased transpiration. As the leaves lose their moisture, they will become wrinkled and will start to curl. Curling is the plant’s way of reducing the surface area that is exposed to the sun and heat.

If you are keeping the plant outside, make sure you keep it on the patio or the porch. You can also place it under the shade of a large tree or under a garden net. If the summer heat is too much, it is best to move the plant to a shaded area, since it will do just fine in low light conditions.

If you want to keep the plant indoors, place it near a window – preferably a north- or east-facing one. If the only window available is letting in harsh light, you can diffuse it by placing a sheer curtain over the window.

4. Not enough light

Although hostas do well in shady areas, they do still want some sunlight from time to time. For hostas with variegated leaves, they need some exposure to light for the variegation to remain pronounced. If the plant does not get enough light, it will not be able to photosynthesize properly. As photosynthesis is the process of food production for the plant, being unable to do this will result in the plant starving.

You may notice some of the plant’s stems becoming longer and thinner, and the newer leaves appearing smaller. This is due to etiolation, or the elongation and lengthening of a plant’s stems because it is trying to grow toward the nearest source of light. The plant is so desperate to reach any light in order to photosynthesize, that it will put all of its remaining resources into lengthening certain limbs. This condition is not fatal to the plant, but it will affect its aesthetic.

To save a hosta plant that is not getting enough light, place it in a spot where it will get more bright, indirect light. Make sure to rotate the plant every couple of days so that all sides of the plant get their time in the light.

During the winter, when light is scarce, use a grow light to support the plant so that it still gets the light it needs.

5. Humidity

Hostas are not sensitive to subtle changes in humidity, but the leaves will wrinkle if they are subjected to low humidity for long periods of time. Low humidity causes the leaves to dry out because of the exposure to dry air.

If you keep the plant indoors, the humidity inside most homes will be sufficient. However, if you keep it near heating vents or air conditioners, the warm and cold drafts will dry out the plant’s leaves very quickly. Also, if you keep it near doors or windows that lead outside, there could be cracks where cold drafts pass through and come into contact with the plant, even if it is inside the house.

If the humidity in your home is too low, you can help the plant out by placing it in the bathroom, kitchen or laundry room, because these are the most humid rooms in most houses. You can also mist the plant with water once in a while, or place the plant’s pot on top of a water pebble tray. When the water evaporates, it will moisten the leaves as well as the soil in the pot. You can also place the plant near other plants that like humidity, so that together they can create a microclimate around themselves. If it fits your budget, you can also purchase a humidifier to help automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

6. Temperature

As with humidity, you should not  need to do much to cater to your plant’s temperature needs. Room temperature is generally enough for this plant. Avoid exposing the plant to temperature extremes, be they too cold or too hot. Extreme temperatures will stress the plant and the leaves will wrinkle. If the weather outside is too hot for your plant, it is best to take it indoors or into the shade. Some hosta varieties are fine with being kept outdoors in winter, since they are dormant and need temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit for dormancy to start. But, for the hosta varieties that do not do well in the cold, rather bring them inside before the frost starts.

Exposure to cold and warm drafts will also affect the leaves of the hosta plant. Not only will they dry out; they will also become wrinkled due to the changes in temperature.

7. Pests 

Pests can also cause the plant to become stressed and the leaves to become wrinkled. Snails and slugs will feed on the leaves of this plant and deplete its nutrients and moisture. You can treat these infestations with snail- and slug-specific treatment that is available from any gardening store.

8. Transplant and repotting stress

If you have just bought your hosta plant and are taking it home for the first time, do not be surprised if the leaves become wrinkled and droopy over the next few days. This is because the plant was grown in a greenhouse or nursery when the living conditions are ideal. The moment you take the plant out of this place, the temperature, humidity and light conditions will be drastically different from those the plant has been used to for the past few months. The drastic changes in living conditions will cause immense stress to the plant, but remember that this is usually temporary. The best thing you can do in this situation is make sure you create living conditions in your home that are as close as possible to those in the plant’s natural habitat. The more comfortable the plant is while it adapts to its new environment, the faster it will recover. Soon enough, the leaves will regain their normal vigor and life.

In the same vein, hosta plants that have outgrown their old pot will need to be transferred to a new pot, probably with new soil. This process is traumatic for the plant’s roots, so it should come as no surprise that the plant’s leaves may become wrinkled and droopy from the stress of being repotted. The best thing to do after repotting a plant is to provide it with the best possible growing conditions so that it can recover as quickly as possible.

Conclusion

A hosta plant with wrinkled leaves is stressed due to one or multiple environmental factors, and these may be benign or life-threatening to the plant. The first and most important step in fixing this problem is to correctly identify the cause of the problem so that your treatment can be specific and the plant can recover quickly.

The most common causes of wrinkled hosta leaves are overwatering, underwatering, too much light, not enough light, humidity, temperature, pests, and transplant or repotting stress.

Image: istockphoto.com / Anna Khromova

If the leaves on your pothos plant are wrinkled, it means that there is an environmental factor that is causing the plant stress. The source of the stress may be benign, or it could be due to something that might cause further decline in a matter of days. In order to fix this change in the leaves’ texture, you need to be able to identify what caused the problem.

The most common causes of wrinkled pothos leaves are overwatering and root rot, underwatering, too much fertilizer, temperature changes, pests, and insufficient light.

In this article, we will discuss the different causes of wrinkled pothos leaves, and how to remedy each one.

Why are my pothos leaves wrinkled?

1. Overwatering and root rot

One of the most common mistakes that a pothos owner can make is to accidentally give the plant more water than it needs. This could be done by giving the plant more water than necessary each time you water it, or by watering it more often than you should. It can also happen if you do not adjust the watering schedule according to seasonal changes, if the pot you choose does not have drainage holes at the bottom, or if the soil does not drain sufficiently well.

When the plant’s roots stand constantly in waterlogged soil, they will have no access to oxygen, which the plant needs to survive. This is why it is so important to let the plant’s roots dry out between waterings. In constantly soggy soil, the roots will essentially drown. The dead roots can no longer do their job of absorbing water and nutrients from the soil, and they will start to rot. They will then be susceptible to opportunistic pathogens, like fungi and bacteria, which will exacerbate the spread of the rot to the rest of the plant. Before you know it, the entire plant will be affected. When the leaves are affected, they will become wrinkled because the plant is unable to absorb water and nutrients properly.

If you are able to catch the overwatering in its early stages, you can still save the plant. Stop watering it immediately and let the soil and roots dry out for as long as they need to. Do not water the plant again until all of the soil has dried out.

If you think that your pothos plant has root rot, remove it from the pot and wash off as much of the old soil as possible. Be gentle as you do this, since the roots are very fragile at this point. If there are any brown or black roots, you need to cut them off because they are rotten. Use a sterilized knife or pair of scissors to do this, so that any disease in the rotten roots does not infect the healthy roots. Spray the remaining healthy roots with fungicide and let the plant air-dry for a few hours. When the plant has dried, replant it in a pot with drainage holes at the bottom, using well-draining soil.

To avoid overwatering your plant, you need to know how to tell when it needs watering. The best way to do this is by feeling the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the soil is dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

2. Underwatering

If you give the plant less water than it needs, it will be underwatered, and this can also cause the leaves to wrinkle. The wrinkling is due to the loss of moisture, because when a plant has a limited amount of water stored in its body, it will prioritize its survival by choosing the most essential parts to keep alive. Leaves and other foliage are the least important because the plant can always grow new ones once it has recovered. The water in the plant will be used to keep the roots alive.

Underwatering can also happen if you expose the plant to high temperatures or other conditions that cause the soil to dry out too quickly.

Fortunately, underwatering is much easier to remedy than overwatering. If you see that the soil in the plant’s pot is too dry, water it as soon as possible. Soak all of the soil with water until the excess water flows out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. If the soil has been dry for too long, it may have become compact and hard. Loosen the soil up before watering it so that it is more easily penetrable. You may need to water the plant more frequently than normal until it has recovered. Once it has recovered, you can go back to watering it only when the soil is dry to the touch.

Remember to adjust your watering schedule according to the season of the year, the climate where you live, and the current weather conditions.

3. Too much fertilizer

If you give your pothos more fertilizer than you should, you will overfeed your plant. Fertilizer is provided to boost the plant’s metabolism, but this only works when the plant is actively growing in the spring and summer. When you give the plant fertilizer in the fall or winter, when it is not actively growing, you are essentially forcing it to metabolise when it does not want or need to. The excess fertilizer will cause the soil to become toxic, and the increased levels of minerals and nutrients in the soil can stress the plant and cause its leaves to wrinkle and curl.

If you think you have given your plant too much fertilizer, you can either change all of the soil in the pot or you can flush out the mineral buildup in the soil with lots of water. Allow the water to flow freely out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

4. Temperature changes

Pothos plants are not very sensitive when it comes to the temperature around them, provided it is not in the extremes. They do not like the intense heat that comes with direct sunlight, which will dry out the soil and the leaves due to the accelerated transpiration of water in the leaves. The wrinkling and curling of its leaves is the plant’s way of saving itself. By reducing the surface area of the leaf exposed to the sun, less damage will be inflicted.

If you want to keep the pothos outdoors, keep it on the porch or on the patio. You can also place it under a large tree or under a garden net.

If you keep the plant indoors, keep it away from heating vents, furnaces, radiators and fireplaces, because the heat emanating from these will also dry out the plant very quickly.

Keep the plant in a temperature-neutral part of the house so that it is healthy and happy.

5. Pests

Another reason your pothos may have wrinkled leaves is the presence of pests. The most commonly observed pests on pothos plants are thrips, scale insects, spider mites and mealybugs. These pests can cause the leaves to wrinkle because they feed on the juices, or sap, of the plant, drying it out and causing the textural changes.

Before treating the plant, make sure that it is quarantined in a different part of your house. You do not want the pests to spread to your other plants. You can use a pesticide that is specifically made for houseplants, or you can use a solution of neem oil and water and spray it on the plant. You can also use a garden hose to knock the pests off the plant with a blast of water.

Repeat the treatment once a week for a month to make sure that all of the pests have been eradicated.

6. Not enough light

Pothos plants need at least eight hours of bright, indirect light per day to undertake their most basic functions, such as photosynthesizing, absorbing water and nutrients, and preserving their beautifully variegated leaves. If you keep the plant in low light conditions, you will notice wrinkling and curling of the leaves. You may also notice that some of the stems and leaves are becoming leggy. This is because the plant is desperate for light and is literally growing in the direction of the nearest light. This is not fatal to the plant, but it will affect the overall aesthetic of the pothos.

If you are keeping the plant outdoors, this is great since the plant gets lots of light, but make sure it is not under direct sunlight, as this could result in sun damage. Place the plant under a large tree or under a garden net.

If you are keeping the plant indoors, keep it near a north- or east-facing window. If the only window available is one that lets in harsh light, you can diffuse the light with a sheer curtain.

During the winter, when light is scarce, use a grow light on your plant so that it is still able to get the light it needs every day.

Conclusion

Your pothos leaves are wrinkled due to an environmental factor that is causing the plant stress. The cause of the stress can be benign, but it also may be so serious that you will need to resolve it in the next few days, or risk losing your plant.

The most common causes of wrinkled pothos leaves are overwatering and root rot, underwatering, too much fertilizer, temperature changes, pests and insufficient light.

The sooner you are able to identify the cause of the problem, the faster you will be able to resolve it and have the plant recover completely.

Image: istockphoto.com / king_tut

If a prayer plant’s leaves become wrinkled, it means that there is an environmental factor that is causing the plant stress, resulting in the change in leaf texture.

The wrinkling of the leaves is a sign that the plant has begun adapting to its altered environment in order to prolong its survival.

To correct this wrinkling, you need to be able to correctly identify the cause of the problem so that it can be resolved and treated as soon as possible.
The most common causes of wrinkled prayer plant leaves are low humidity, excessive sunlight, temperature stress, overwatering, underwatering, poor water quality, the plant being rootbound, or pests.

In this article, we will discuss each of the possible reasons your prayer plant’s leaves are wrinkled, and how to fix them.

Why are my prayer plant’s leaves wrinkled?

1. Low humidity

Prayer plants are native to the swampy rainforests of Central and South America. That means they are used to being in warm, humid environments. If you live in a place that is drier than normal and has a lower humidity level than the prayer plant prefers, it should come as no surprise if the plant’s leaves become wrinkled from the decreased moisture in the air around it. To keep a plant happy, one must be able to simulate, as closely as possible, the growing conditions of the plant’s natural habitat.

To fix wrinkled leaves caused by low humidity, you can mist the plant with water once in a while so that the leaves do not dry out. You can also place the plant’s pot on top of a pebble tray filled with water. When the water in the pebble tray evaporates, it will moisten the leaves and the soil in the pot. Another trick is to group the plant next to other humidity-loving plants, so that together they can create a microclimate around their group. You can also place the plant in the bathroom, kitchen or laundry room, as these are the most humid rooms in most houses. Finally, if you have the money to spare, you can always just buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

2. Excessive light

As mentioned above, prayer plants live in the rainforest and, since they grow close to the ground, they are protected from harsh sunlight by the canopy of large trees. 

Prayer plants have adapted to not getting very much light because of this tree canopy, and they have evolved to be able to trap sunlight in their leaves. If you look at the bottom of a prayer plant’s leaves, they are either maroon or white in color. This solid color does not allow light to pass through the leaf, and it becomes trapped inside the leaf instead. The plant can then store all this energy for later use.

These plants do best in indirect light and will burn quite easily if exposed to direct light, especially for extended periods of time. The sun damage includes the loss of moisture in the leaves, which causes wrinkling and curling.

In order to save your plant, simply move it to another spot where it will only be getting bright, indirect light. If you keep the plant outside, put it on the porch or patio, under a large tree or under a garden net. Never leave the plant out in direct sunlight for the majority of the day.

Because these plants do well in low light conditions, they are great office plants. Just make sure that they still get enough light to remain healthy.

When placing the plant near a window, choose a north- or east-facing window. If the only window available is letting in harsh light, you can diffuse the light by placing a sheer curtain over the window. Do not forget to turn the pot every couple of days so that all sides of the plant can get their time in the sun. This will also help to keep the growth of the leaves symmetrical. If one side of the plant is deprived of light, it will compensate by growing in the direction of the light. This will not kill the plant, but it will definitely affect its overall aesthetic.

During the winter, when light is weak and scarce, you can use a grow light to help the plant get its much needed daily light.

3. Temperature stress

Both too much cold and too much warmth are bad for the prayer plant. If you leave the plant out during the winter, the frost will damage it and may cause the leaves to wrinkle. Bring the plant inside for the winter, but do not place it under a heating vent or next to a radiator or furnace. The high temperature can dry out the plant, causing the leaves to wrinkle as well. If you place the plant near doors or windows that lead outdoors, the cold drafts coming through the cracks can also dry out the plant’s leaves. The prayer plant’s leaves will wrinkle and curl to decrease their surface area, which is an adaptive measure to prevent the plant from drying out so quickly.

To save the plant from temperature extremes, make sure you bring it indoors when the weather starts becoming cold. Do not leave it out under the summer sun, and keep it away from heating vents, radiators, furnaces and air conditioners to avoid exposure to warm or cold drafts. Generally, the room temperature in most homes is fine for the plant, as long as you keep it away from drafts.

4. Overwatering 

You may think that because prayer plants live in the rainforest, they like to be watered constantly, but this is not the case. If you give the plant more water that it needs every time you water it, or if you water the plant more often than you need to, it will become overwatered. This can also happen if you leave the plant out in the pouring rain for days or weeks, if you use a pot that does not have drainage holes at the bottom, or if you use potting soil that is not sufficiently well-draining. One sign of overwatering is the wrinkling and the drooping of the plant’s leaves. This is because the leaves are so full of water that they can no longer photosynthesize effectively. The roots of an overwatered plant also become compromised and are unable to absorb the nutrients that the plant needs to stay sturdy and healthy.

The worst-case scenario for an overwatered plant is root rot. This happens when a plant’s roots are constantly sitting in waterlogged soil, and they drown and die. The dead roots will begin to rot and will be susceptible to opportunistic pathogens. These pathogens will make the root rot even more aggressive, helping it spread faster to the rest of the plant. Before you know it, the entire plant will be affected by the rot. By this point, the plant can no longer be saved and you are better off starting anew with a different plant.

Save an overwatered plant by immediately refraining from watering it. If you were able to catch your error early and there is no root rot yet, you can just let the soil in the pot dry out before watering it again. This will give the plant enough time to recover and have access to oxygen. 

The best way to know when your plant needs to be watered is by feeling the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the soil is dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

If you suspect root rot, remove the plant from the pot and wash off as much of the old soil as possible. Inspect the roots for brown and black segments; these parts are rotten and you will need to cut them off using a sterilized knife or scissors. Spray the remaining roots with fungicide and allow the plant to air-dry for a couple of hours. After drying, replant it in a pot with drainage holes, using well-draining potting soil.

5. Underwatering

Underwatering the plant may be a less serious mistake when it comes to the prayer plant, but neglecting to water it for long periods of time will also cause its leaves to wrinkle due to a lack of moisture. The wrinkling and curling is the plant’s way of conserving its limited resources and prioritizing its roots in order to survive. The less foliage that needs to be supplied with water, the more water can be stored for emergency situations.

Fortunately, it is much easier to save an underwatered plant than an overwatered one. You just need to water the plant until all of the soil in the pot is soaked. If the soil has been dry for a long time, it may have become compacted and you will need to loosen it a bit before watering it. Water the soil until excess water is flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. You may need to water the plant more frequently than normal in the first couple of weeks until it has completely recovered, after which you can just go back to watering it when the top two inches of soil are dry.

The key to avoiding both overwatering and underwatering is to figure out how exactly what watering schedule your plant prefers. You will need to tweak this schedule according to the climate where you live, the season of the year and the current weather conditions.

6. Water quality

Another reason your prayer plant’s leaves may be wrinkling is the mineral and iron content of the water you are using. If you use tap water to water your prayer plant, over time the minerals will accumulate in the soil and this can lead to soil toxicity. The accumulation can get so bad that they can build up on the plant’s roots as well. This affects the plant’s overall health and could cause root burn; it will also cause the leaves to curl and wrinkle.

The best way to avoid the accumulation of minerals in the soil is to use rainwater or distilled water for your plant. Rainwater and distilled water do not have as much mineral content as tap water and will not contribute as much to soil toxicity. If you think that there is too much mineral buildup in your plant’s soil, you can either change the soil in the pot or you can flush the soil with distilled water.

7. The plant is rootbound

The main reason your plant becomes rootbound is that it has outgrown its pot. Because the roots no longer have space to grow into, they will grow into whatever space they can find. This causes the roots to become entangled. A prayer plant that has outgrown its pot will have roots that are visible above the soil or growing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Because the roots are severely compromised, the plant’s growth will be stunted and the leaves will turn yellow and become wrinkled and curled. This is due to the lack of moisture and nutrients in the soil, because of the overwhelming growth of the roots.

The only way to save a rootbound prayer plant is by repotting it in a new pot that is bigger than the old one. Remember that the new pot should not be too large, because this can lead to overwatering. A large pot means more soil in the pot, more soil in the pot means more water retained, and more water retained leads to overwatering and possibly root rot. Ideally, a pot that is one size larger than the old one is sufficient. Make sure the pot has drainage holes at the bottom and that the soil you are using is well-draining.

8. Pests

The most commonly observed pests in prayer plants are mealy bugs, scale insects, fungus gnats and spider mites. These pests can cause the plant’s leaves to wrinkle because they feed on the sap, or juices, of the leaves, causing them to dry out and wrinkle.

If you suspect that your plant has pests, take it to a different part of the house, far away from your other healthy plants. This will keep the pests from spreading. You can lay down a sticky trap for the gnats as well as for other flying pests. You can also spray the plant with water from a garden hose to knock the pests off. You can use an insecticide made specifically for houseplants, or spray the plant with a solution of neem oil and water. Treat the plant once a week for a month to make sure that all of the pests have been eradicated. Place the plant back in its original position only when you are sure there are no pests left.

Conclusion

If the leaves of your prayer plant are wrinkled, this is the plant adapting to survive an environmental change that is causing it stress. The best way to fix a prayer plant’s wrinkled leaves is by correctly identifying the cause of the problem. The faster you are able to identify the problem, the easier and quicker it will be to fix it.

The most common causes of wrinkled prayer plant leaves are low humidity, excessive sunlight, temperature stress, overwatering, underwatering, poor water quality, the plant being rootbound, and pests.

Image: istockphoto.com / Ralf Liebhold

We all know that overwatering orchids can lead to the plant developing root rot. This is because the constant moisture on the plant’s roots, and not allowing them to dry out properly, encourages the growth of fungi and bacteria that can ultimately kill it.

But did you know that underwatering your orchid can also have a very debilitating effect on the plant’s roots?

An underwatered orchid’s roots are brittle and dry, and look more grey than green, while healthy roots are plump and flexible and green in color.

In this article, we will discuss the signs of underwatered orchid roots and how to effectively remedy the problem. So, if you think your orchid’s roots are underwatered and you want to learn how to save your plant, then keep reading.

How can I tell if my orchid’s roots are dehydrated?

Generally, when your orchid’s roots are dehydrated, it means the plant has not been watered for a very long time. Like all plants, the orchid will prioritize its roots when it is trying to survive. In the early stages of underwatering, the blooms and the leaves of the orchid will be the first to show any sign that the plant is not receiving as much water as it needs. The leaves will start to become pleated, meaning lines appear on them. The plant’s pseudobulbs will also start to shrivel, and the leaves will become soft, droopy and turn yellow. You may also observe bud blast, which is when the buds fall off the plant without blooming. This is essentially the plant’s way of conserving resources by sacrificing the foliage so that there is more water stored for the roots.

Throughout the earlier stages of underwatering, the roots will remain green and flexible. However, as soon as all of the moisture in the plant has been used up, the roots will also shrivel, dry up, and become brittle and brown.

Why are my orchid’s roots underwatered?

The most common reason your orchid’s roots are underwatered is that you forgot to water it. Orchids are tropical plants that grow on the bark of trees and use their roots to collect water and nutrients from the air around them. In the rainforest, the rain and humidity can supply the moisture that the plant survives on, but in your home the orchid depends on you for all its moisture.

Maybe you went on a trip and forgot to ask a friend to water your plants. It is also possible that you do in fact water your orchid, but the potting medium does not retain moisture well enough and dries out too quickly between waterings.

Another reason the orchid’s roots are underwatered could be that you are not taking into account  factors such as the local climate, the season of the year, and the current weather conditions, all of which affect the plant’s watering needs. This means that an orchid in a home in a cold climate, during the winter, with lots of rainfall, will not need to be watered as much as an orchid in a drier climate, in the summer, with little to no rainfall.

Adjust your watering schedule depending on the current circumstances. Orchids are living beings that react to their environment, so keep that in mind.

What are the environmental factors that can lead to underwatered orchid roots?

Humidity

As mentioned above, orchids are tropical plants that grow in rainforests in the wild. They thrive in humidity and do not do well in arid places.

During the warm months of the year, the orchid’s roots will be especially vulnerable to drying out, so you need to keep an eye on them and remedy any dryness as soon as you notice the first signs. To avoid underwatering in drier circumstances, place the plant’s pot on top of a water pebble tray or use a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

Temperature

In warmer regions, the sun is out for most of the day and can cause the water in the plant’s potting medium to evaporate faster than normal. You therefore need to adjust your watering frequency according to the season and local climate. Drastic changes in temperatures from season to season should factor heavily into your watering technique.

Keep the plant away from heating vents and air conditioners, because the drafts they produce can dry out both plant and potting medium.

Sunlight

Naturally, when the plant is kept under direct sunlight, it will become dehydrated much faster than if it is kept indoors with only indirect light. If you are growing the plant outdoors, keep it under a gardening net or under the shade of a large tree. In their natural habitat, epiphytic plants grow on the trunks of trees and are protected from direct sunlight by the treetop canopy.

If you keep the plant indoors, place it next to north- or east-facing window. If the only window available is one that lets in harsh light, you can always diffuse the light using a sheer curtain.

Even though orchids do not like direct light, do not place them in low light conditions either, because they need light to survive. Balance is always the key.

Fertilizing problems

Getting too little water or drying out because of the elements are not the only reasons your orchid’s roots can be dehydrated. If you feed your orchid too frequently or if you use too strong a concentration of fertilizer, the minerals can build up in the potting medium and on the plant’s roots. When the roots are affected by mineral toxicity, they can no longer do their job of absorbing water, so this can also lead to underwatering.

How can I save my orchid if it has underwatered roots?

If you suspect that your plant’s roots are underwatered, you need to check whether your current watering techniques are effective. A lot of times, this can be fixed through trial and error until you come to know exactly how much water your plant actually needs, and how often.

Take into account the factors discussed above, which are climate, season and current weather conditions.

The easiest way to know whether your plant needs to be watered is by touching the potting medium. If the potting medium is dry to the touch, water the orchid, but if it is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

To avoid underwatered roots, water the potting medium thoroughly but make sure the potting medium is well-draining and allow any excess water to drip out of the pot.

If returning to a normal watering routine does not seem to be working to revive your orchid’s roots, you may need to remove the plant from the pot to inspect them more closely. If there are any roots that look too shriveled and have turned completely brown, remove them using sterilized pruning shears. Spray fungicide on the remaining healthy roots to protect them from opportunistic pathogens.

Plant the orchid in a pot with drainage holes, using a potting medium that is well-draining and airy, and remember to water the plant correctly going forward.

Conclusion

Underwatered orchid roots are caused by poor watering techniques, low humidity, high temperature, too much sunlight or fertilizer problems. Dry roots are brittle and break easily, and are grey or brown in color.

In order to save an orchid with underwatered roots, you need change your watering technique. Make sure you take into account variations in climate, season and weather. If there are any heavily affected roots, remove them so that the plant can recover more quickly and effectively. Going forward, make sure you water your orchid whenever the potting medium is dry to the touch. Understanding the needs of your plant is key to keeping its roots healthy and hydrated.

Image: istockphoto.com / IKvyatkovskaya

The bird of paradise is one of the most popular plants in the world. Being tropical or semi-tropical, it appreciates a little more water than most houseplants, and one of the most common problems it encounters is underwatering. 

Underwatering is a mistake made by many beginner bird of paradise owners, because they either neglect to give the plant enough water per watering, or do not water it as frequently as they should, or they place it in a spot where it gets too much sunlight or gets exposed to warm or cold drafts.

In this article, we will discuss the signs to look out for if you suspect underwatering, the causes of underwatering, and how to save an underwatered bird of paradise plant.

How can you tell if a bird of paradise is underwatered?

1. Drooping leaves

If the leaves on the plant are drooping, this may be because the plant is prioritizing the roots and the base of the plant to survive. Keeping the foliage alive takes up a lot of resources and nutrients, so if the plant is in a situation where resources are scarce, its main objective will always be survival. The foliage is last on the list, so it will start to look unhealthy and wilted.

The drooping is due to the absence of moisture in the plant’s stems and leaves. In a healthy, well-watered bird of paradise, the stems and leaves are sturdy and springy, and will have no problem standing straight.

One way to determine whether the droopiness is due to underwatering is by touching the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the soil is very dry, chances are the plant is overdue for watering.

2. Dry soil

Look at the soil in the pot. If it is pulling away from the edges of the pot, the soil may be drier than it needs to be. If you can remove the soil as a whole from the pot, inspect it all and check if it is dry all the way to the bottom.

When the soil is this dry, the plant’s roots are not getting the moisture they need.

If dry soil is the only sign you have noticed, then the underwatering or dehydration is still in its early stages. If this is the case you are fortunate, because all you need to do to remedy the situation is water the plant until all of the soil is properly soaked.

3. Wrinkled, curled leaves

Another sign of an underwatered bird of paradise is wrinkled, curled leaves. As with the drooping stems, the leaves will be least prioritized if the plant is conserving its limited water stores. The wrinkling and curling are just signs that the leaves no longer have as much moisture inside them as they would when they are receiving the proper amount of water.

Over time, the wrinkled leaves will turn yellow or brown and fall off.

4. Yellowing and browning leaves

If the leaves of the plant turn yellow, you should see this as a sign that the plant is in need of immediate attention. If the leaves are turning yellow alongside other signs, such as drooping and wrinkling, this is most probably due to dehydration.

If the leaves turn yellow but are not dry and crispy, this could be indicative of the plant’s long-term health being affected. Because the leaves are yellow, their ability to photosynthesize is compromised and this will affect the health of the plant in the long run.

When the leaves start turning brown and not just yellow, this is a warning that the plant is even closer to death.

If you see yellowing or browning leaves on your plant, check for the other signs of underwatering. If all of the signs listed above are present in your plant, you need to remedy the situation as soon as possible, because there might not be much time left.

Why is my bird of paradise underwatered?

Poor watering techniques

The most common mistake made by plant owners is not giving the plant enough water per watering, or not watering it as frequently as needed.

There are several factors to consider when determining the correct watering schedule for your plant. These include the climate where you live, the season of the year, and the current weather conditions. During the winter, in a place with a cold climate with lots of rainfall, you will not have to water the plant as much as someone who lives in an area with a warm climate, in the summer, with little to no rainfall.

Do not neglect your plant; try to water it whenever the top two inches of soil are dry. Remember that this is a tropical plant that cannot go too long without water.

The plant is placed in the wrong spot

Even if you are watering the plant properly and taking into account the climate and weather conditions, where you place the plant in your home can have a great effect on its general well-being.

If you place the plant outdoors, you may be putting it directly under the sun which will dry the soil out faster than intended. This can also lead to sun-damaged foliage which will spoil the plant’s aesthetic.

Another reason your plant may become underwatered without you noticing immediately is placing it where it is exposed to cold or warm drafts, such as near an air conditioner or a heating vent. The cold or warm air will dry out the soil in the pot as well as the foliage of the plant. The same thing goes for areas near doors and windows, where small cracks might allow cold air from outside to hit the plant.

Potting soil problems

Another reason your plant may be underwatered, even if you give it water at the right time, is if the soil is too well-draining.

This can be due to added components that make the soil too loose. Plants do not like soil that is too dense and compact, because this retains too much water and can lead to root rot. However, that does not mean that you can go crazy when adding draining components to the soil, because then the water will not stay in the potting mix long enough for the roots to absorb moisture. It will simply flow to the bottom of the pot and out through the drainage holes.

The best thing to do is add just one part draining material to the soil, so that it can still retain enough water to last until the next time the plant is watered.

How to save an underwatered bird of paradise plant

If you think your bird of paradise is underwatered, you need to water it immediately.

Fill your sink with water until it is about four inches deep. Place the plant’s pot in the sink and let it soak for 30 to 45 minutes. This is important, because if the soil has become very dry, it will take some time for the water to permeate it effectively. The water will enter through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot and carry moisture up into the soil.

After soaking, check the soil at the top of the pot to see that the water has made its way at  least up to the top two inches of soil. Remove the plant from the sink and allow the excess water to drip from the pot before returning the plant to its proper place.

In order to avoid underwatering the plant again, make sure you check the soil every couple of days to see when the top two inches of soil have dried out.

Conclusion

The bird of paradise plant is one of the most popular houseplants in the world. It is low-maintenance, but its tropical aesthetic is a great addition to any household decor.

One of the most common mistakes made by bird of paradise owners is forgetting that this is a tropical plant that needs more water, more frequently, than most plants. Remember that in the wild, these plants are exposed to abundant rain.

You can tell a bird of paradise plant is underwatered when the plant is drooping, the soil is dry, and the leaves are turning yellow or brown and wrinkling.

Save the plant by soaking the soil generously in a sink of water until the top two inches of soil are properly moist.

Image: istockphoto.com / Dima Berlin

Most orchid species bloom at least once a year, but there are some that bloom multiple times a year, and still others that bloom year-round. The more often an orchid blooms, the happier it is. When an orchid does bloom, the flower will remain for anywhere between six to ten weeks.

In this article, we will discuss more about how often orchids bloom, and how you can make sure your orchid blooms as often as naturally possible.

How often do orchids bloom?

Most orchids bloom either once or twice a year. In between blooms, the plant will become dormant. During dormancy, the plant does not grow actively, but regains the nutrients and energy used up during its last bloom. An orchid often reblooms six to nine months after the last bloom.

Orchids that bloom multiple times a year do so because they are grown in ideal conditions that encourage flowering. Such conditions include the proper amount of light. Orchids like 12 to 14 hours of bright, indirect light a day. You can help your plant by placing it under grow lights, especially during the winter when sunlight is scarce.

Another factor that can trigger your orchid to bloom is subjecting it to lower temperatures. When placed in an area where the temperature is around ten degrees lower than normal, the plant will be triggered to bloom.

You can also almost guarantee a rebloom if you buy an orchid that is currently in bloom and try to simulate the living conditions it had in the greenhouse. Basically, the happier the orchid, the more likely it is to rebloom.

When do orchids bloom?

An orchid will generally bloom either in the spring or winter, when the weather is calmer. The plant will grow most and fastest at the tail-end of summer.

How long do an orchid’s flowers last?

The time an orchid bloom lasts depends very much on the type of orchid. It can last anywhere from a week up to four months. One of the most common genus of orchids, the Phalaenopsis orchid, blooms for up to four months. The best way to make sure that the blooms last as long as possible is to care for the orchid properly.

Why has my orchid stopped blooming?

1. Too much light

One of the main reasons an orchid stops flowering is if you have placed it in a spot where it gets too much direct light. Not only will the plant stop producing flowers; it will also suffer sun-damaged foliage. Even light from grow lights that are too strong or too much for the orchid can affect its ability to bloom.

Aside from the lowered temperatures, the shortening of the day as winter approaches also triggers blooming. So, if the plant is constantly under a light source, it will miss this cue to bloom.

You can remedy this by placing the orchid in another spot where it gets only bright, indirect light, and by setting the grow lights on a timer so that they are only on for a specific number of hours per day.

2. Not enough light

The most probable reason your orchid has stopped blooming is insufficient light. This halts the plant’s ability to produce flowers. Remember that orchids need bright, indirect light to have enough energy to create new blooms, so when this need is not fulfilled, there will be no blooms. Orchids that are kept in dim rooms will need grow lights to support their daily light requirements.

The easy remedy is to transfer the plant to a spot where it can get enough light every day.

3. No temperature fluctuation

Orchids are tropical plants, and they need to experience a temperature fluctuation to trigger blooming. Expose your orchid to daytime temperatures that are at least ten degrees lower than normal, and do this for two weeks until you see the orchid start to bud.

4. The plant needs to be fertilized

Orchids are not heavy feeders which means they do not need to be fertilized that often. But, if you think you need to boost your orchid’s nutrient intake, you can give it a urea-free fertilizer. This fertilizer provides nitrogen without the microorganisms in most gardening soils.

5. The plant needs repotting or the roots need to be pruned

Another reason your orchid is not blooming may be that it needs to be repotted. An orchid’s roots can become suffocated when the potting medium breaks down over time.

This can be tricky, especially as there are orchids that do not bloom after being repotted. There are also those that will only bloom when they become very rootbound and are strangled by their pots.

You will know if your orchid needs to be repotted by looking at the state of its roots. Potting media  break down over time, and this affects the air circulation around the roots.

If there are roots that have turned brown, black or mushy, or when the potting medium starts to look too much like soil, it is time to repot the plant. Remove the brown or black roots, because those are rotten and could be infected by bacteria or fungi.

Another sign to repot is when there are roots growing over the lip of the pot.

6. Too much water

One of the easiest mistakes orchid owners make is overwatering their plants. Unfortunately, if the plant has already failed to bloom due to overwatering, it may be too late to save it, and it may die.

Even if the orchid has buds, these can still fall off without blooming if you keep overwatering the plant. Orchids need to be able to dry out between waterings to remain healthy. Allowing the plant’s roots to stand in stagnant water can lead to root rot.

The best way to prevent overwatering is by making sure the pot has drainage holes at the bottom, and that the potting medium is well-draining.

Do your research so that you know exactly how your species of orchid likes to be watered.

7. Not enough water

If you are too careful about watering your orchid, you may end up giving it less water than it needs. Orchids are tropical plants and they enjoy the occasional rain shower.

Do not let the plant dry out too much between waterings because the leaves will absorb the moisture that should support the new buds. If the buds are dehydrated, they can no longer bloom. You will see the buds turn yellow, shrivel up and drop off one by one. You can keep the plant’s moisture level up by placing a pebble tray filled with water under the pot. When the water in the tray evaporates, it will moisten the soil in the pot and the plant’s foliage.

What do I do after the blooms fall off?

Simply continue watering the plant after the blooms have fallen off, especially if the stem is still green. If the stem looks dry and is about to die, you can cut it off to encourage the growth of new stems.

Depending on the orchid variety, the plant will soon produce new buds and before you know it, the orchid will bloom again. You may need to fertilize the plant so that it has all the nutrients it needs to continue blooming. Make sure you provide as close to ideal conditions as possible for the plant, so that it is kept as healthy and happy as possible.

Conclusion

Most orchids bloom once or twice a year. There are species that bloom multiple times a year, and there are even some that bloom all year round. However, most orchids only do so once a year.

These blooms will last anywhere between a week and four months. In order to help the blooms last as long as possible, you need to make sure you are taking care of the plant properly.

If your orchid has just finished blooming, care for it as best you can to support its next bloom. Expose the plant to daytime temperatures ten degrees lower than usual for two weeks, and this should trigger the plant to produce new buds.

Provided you take proper care of your orchids, they will bloom as often as naturally possible.

Image: istockphoto.com / Besjunior

An orchid’s aerial roots are the ones that grow from the main stem of the plant, and you can use these aerial roots to propagate your orchid. You need to use a sterilized pair of scissors to cut them off the parent plant and place them in their own pot. After a few weeks, the roots will establish themselves in the soil, from which a new plant will grow.

In this article, we will dive deeper into how the propagation of orchids using aerial roots. If you would like to learn more about this process, just keep reading.

Is it possible to propagate orchids from aerial roots?

Yes, propagating orchids from aerial roots is possible, but only for a handful of genuses, including paphiopedilum, cattleya and cymbidium.

If the orchid falls to one side and has a hard time staying upright, you can cut off the top of the stem that has aerial roots. Use a sterilized knife to cut it off, then let it dry out, sprinkle it with charcoal and plant it in a new container. Do not throw away the leftover stump, because new growth will soon appear on it, too.

Why are aerial roots so important?

Aerial roots are important to an orchid’s growth because these plants are epiphytic. Epiphytes grow on the bark of trees or other plants, without the support of traditional growing media, and use their aerial roots to absorb water and nutrients from the air around them.

These roots can also help to anchor them to the bark of the tree, and to reach sources of light that the plant needs to survive.

If you notice that your orchid has a lot of aerial roots, this may be a sign that the plant needs to be repotted. An abundance of aerial roots is often observed when the roots in the soil or potting medium are compromised. Putting out more aerial roots than usual is the plant’s way of compensating for its unhealthy roots under the soil.

Your plant will also try to produce more aerial roots if it does not feel very stable in its container or wherever it is situated. This is commonly seen when the plant has flower spikes supporting so many flowers that it can no longer carry the weight. The more unbalanced the plant, the more aerial roots it will produce to anchor itself.

If you are repotting a plant that has aerial roots, do not bury the aerial roots in the potting medium. They can rot if buried in the soil. Air circulation is key when caring for a plant with aerial roots.

Propagating orchids from aerial roots

If you are planning on propagating your orchid using aerial roots, cut these roots off the parent plant using sterilized pruning tools. Prepare pots with specialized orchid potting mix and place each cutting in a pot. Make sure to mist the aerial roots in the potting medium, and never let it dry out completely. After several weeks, new growth will appear. 

Growing a new plant from an aerial root will take quite some time, so you will need to be patient when using this method of propagation.

What are other methods of orchid propagation?

Division

Plant division is a technique preferred by growers of larger orchid species. The parent plant can be divided into several sections and each section can then be grown into a new plant.

Sympodial orchids can be split into sections, with each section containing at least three pseudobulbs. Use a sterilized knife if you need to, or you can simply use your hands to separate the sections from one another. Often the plant will have natural lines that separate each section, so if you can identify these natural divisions, you will have an easier time separating the parts.

After you have successfully separated the sections, remove any dead foliage and repot the sections. You can then continue caring for these new plants in the same way you would a mature orchid.

Back bulbs

Another method of propagation is to use the back bulbs of the orchid. The back bulbs are pseudobulbs whose main purpose is to store water for the plant. They no longer produce flowers or even roots.

You can choose to only remove the back bulb and grow a new plant using this, or you can separate the back bulb while also separating the entire plant into sections.

Plant the back bulb in its own pot and wait a few weeks for it to start rooting. Depending on the species of orchid, the plant can stay dormant inside a back bulb for as long as two years.

This is one of the slowest ways to propagate orchids, but it can be an effective way to grow more of your favorite plants.

Keikis

Keikis are present in monopodial orchids. They are sprout offshoots that grow above the root structure of the plant or on the stem of the parent plant.

Keikis are best used for propagation once they have their own leaves and roots. Make sure the roots are at least a few inches long before thinking of cutting the keiki away from the parent plant.

Stem cuttings

If the stems of your orchid have nodes, you can use them for propagation. This method is used for sympodial orchids.

Wait until the parent plant has finished blooming and the flowers have all fallen off. Choose a stem that is at least 10 inches long, and use sterilized scissors to cut it off at the base. Divide the stem into several sections, making sure that all the sections include at least one node.

Place these sections in a container filled with sphagnum moss. Make sure the moss is damp and never completely dry. Cover the container with a plastic bag to lock in moisture and help increase the humidity. After several weeks, new growth can be observed on the stem cuttings.

How can I repot an orchid that has lots of aerial roots?

Repotting an orchid can be a little trickier than repotting other houseplants.

1. First, remove the plant from the pot. Do this as carefully as you can because the roots can be easily damaged. If you have to use a knife to loosen the potting medium a bit, then use it with caution. Try to minimize any root damage as much as possible.
2. After successfully removing the plant from the pot, remove as much of the old potting medium as you can from between the roots. You will not be reusing this potting medium, so dispose of it properly or use it as compost. You can remove the old potting medium by shaking the roots or by using a small tool to clear it from between the roots.
3. Hold the roots under a tap and let tepid water help wash away the rest of the old potting medium. You can also just let the roots soak in tepid water for 15 minutes. The soaking will help make the roots more flexible while also removing the residual potting medium.
4. Be careful when soaking the orchid; make sure no water gets into the plant’s stem. This can lead to crown rot, which should be avoided at all costs. If water gets into the stem accidentally, you can soak it up with a paper towel or a cotton pad.
5. After soaking the roots, you will have a better picture of their current state. You can now see which roots are rotten and which are healthy. Using sterilized tools, remove the brown and black, mushy roots. If you have been caring for the orchid properly, there should be many healthy, green roots left after pruning off the rotten roots.
6. After removing all the dead or dying roots, spray the healthy roots with a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution in order to clean them further and to kill any pathogens that are still present.
7. Prepare a new pot that is one size larger than the old one, and that has drainage holes at the bottom. You can opt for a clear pot if you want to be able to view the condition of the roots at any time.
8. Place the plant in the pot and hold it so that it stands upright in the middle. Fill the spaces around the roots with a potting mix specially made for orchids. Remember not to include the aerial roots when burying the main roots under the potting medium. Do not pack the potting mix too tightly, as this is not good for the plant.
9. Repotting is a traumatic experience for your plant, so do not water it for a few days afterwards. Give the plant several days to recover first, so that the roots can return to normal and can absorb water and nutrients effectively.

Conclusion

To propagate orchids using aerial roots, you need to cut off some aerial roots from the parent plant. Make sure you use sterilized tools so that you do not risk spreading any diseases.

Place the cut aerial roots in their own pots and keep the potting medium moist, but not damp. Do not let the potting medium dry out completely, as this is not good for the new plants. After a couple of weeks, you should be able to see new growth sprouting from the cuttings. Remember that it will take the new plant a long time before it can fully mature and bloom. Patience is a very important trait when propagating orchids, but it will be worth it in the end.

Image: istockphoto.com / kulbabka

Yes, the Vanda orchid is an orchid with a naturally-occuring blue color. The color blue in nature is very rare, which is why blue flowers are sought out by collectors – the rarer the better.

However, there are also white orchids, such as the Phalaenopsis orchid, that are dyed blue and sold. This is done by injecting blue food dye into the stem of the orchid. This turns the petals of the orchid blue, but when you take the plant home and the petals fall off, the orchid’s next blooms will revert to their original white color.

In this article, we will discuss more about blue orchids, why they are so sought-after, and how you can grow your own.

Why are blue orchids so hard to find?

Blue orchids, and blue plants or flowers in general, for that matter, are very difficult to find naturally because only ten percent of flowering plants contain this pigment. Most often, the shades of blue are pale, and even more purplish than actual blue. Because the color is so rare, it makes the search for a truly blue orchid that much harder.

Are blue orchids real?

Yes, blue orchids in nature do exist, but they are rarely, if ever, sold commercially. They are not mass-produced, so they cannot be distributed in large numbers, making them quite rare.

The blue orchids that you see in stores are most probably dyed Phalaenopsis orchids. A blue food dye is injected to the plant’s stem and turns the white petals blue. Unfortunately, when the current petals fall off, the new blooms that replace them will revert to their original white color.

What are examples of blue orchids?

Blue Vanda orchid

The Vanda genus of orchids come in burgundy, purple, pink, orange, white and blue. They are single-footed orchids that grow straight upward with leaves on either side of a spike that holds their large flowers.

The blue Vanda is the Vanda coerulea. This orchid’s blue flowers are large and flat. The flowers can grow to five inches across, and have a labellum that is an inch long.

In nature, the Vanda coerulea grows high up, on the bark of oak trees. The plant’s spikes can split and produce as many as 30 flowers a single plant.

This orchid can be found in Myanmar, India, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam, Thailand, Nepal and China. It has been used as a parent plant for various cultivars that people have tried to produce over the years.

Apart from the blue color of its flowers, the Vanda coerulea also passes on its tessellations, veins and inflorescences to its hybrids.

Blue Vanda orchid care

Because this orchid is native to the forests of Asia, the ideal is to try to simulate this natural habitat in your own home.

1. Water

It is important to keep the plant moist, so mist it every morning during the spring and summer when the plant is actively growing. Try not to let water stagnate around the crown of the plant because this can lead to rot. If you mist in the morning, when the plant has plenty of time to dry out in the light, you will not have this problem. 

2. Light

The blue Vanda orchid appreciates direct sunlight for a few hours a day, preferably in the early morning or late afternoon. Place it in a spot where it is shaded at noon and during the early afternoon hours. This is especially important during the summer when the heat is harsh and can really damage the plant’s foliage.

3. Humidity

In the hot summer, the plant likes humid conditions, preferably between 80 to 85 percent humidity. During the winter, it is fine with 50 to 55 percent humidity.

4. Fertilizer

During the plant’s growing period in the spring and summer, give the plant fertilizer every two weeks.

5. Potting the plant

The Vanda coerulea likes to be in a well-draining medium, inside a basket or a hanging pot. An airy substrate like coarse bark is ideal. Because they like fast-draining media, you will need to water the plant frequently. They have thick roots that look beautiful hanging from their pots.

Are blue orchids safe for humans to eat?

There are fine dining establishments that have used the orchid in all kinds of dishes, both savory and sweet.

All orchids can be eaten, but only those that are naturally grown. Refrain from ingesting hybrid orchids or those that are injected with a dye to change their appearance. It is best only to eat orchids that have been served to you by professionals; do not prepare any dishes yourself unless you have done all your research.

Are blue orchids safe for pets to ingest?

One of the concerns for any plant owner who is also a pet owner is the possibility of their pet accidentally ingesting their house plants.

The blue orchid is not poisonous to pets, but you may observe symptoms such as inflammation of the mucus membranes and skin irritation if your pet ingests it.

If your pets ingest the blue orchid with the artificial dye, however, it is best to take the pet to the vet for proper treatment in case the dye has any adverse effects.

If you can, place the plant far from the reach of all your pets, so that you will not have to worry about them eating it.

Even if the orchid is not poisonous to your pets, inclusion of the flower in their diet is not recommended anyway. The bark in the plant’s potting medium is a bigger threat to your pet’s health, so just keep the entire plant and its pot out of reach.

What are other blue flowers that are easier to find and care for?

If you cannot procure a true blue Vanda orchid but still wish to own a blue flowering plant, these are some other plants you can consider:

Forget-me-nots are small, delicate blue flowers that have red borders.

Hydrangeas also come in blue, and can be a great choice as a shrub in front of your house. They can be a bit sensitive about the soil pH, so keep that in mind.

Delphiniums are more purple than blue, but the deep richness of their color is still quite striking.

Cornflowers are a vibrant blue color and are really easy to find. They grow in large numbers in most meadows, so you will not have to search very far for your own cornflower.

Himalayan poppies boast one of the truest blue colors in the plant kingdom. They may be easier to procure than the blue orchid, but they can be a bit tricky to grow, so make sure you do your research to grow your Himalayan poppy correctly.

Do blue Phalaenopsis orchids exist?

No, naturally blue Phalaenopsis orchids do not exist, and if you do see these orchids in shops, they have been dyed blue. One blue Phalaenopsis variety, called Blue Mystique, is the result of a dying technique developed in 2011. They were so convincingly blue that when plant owners took them home, they were very upset when the new blooms were white.

These flowers were injected with food dye to make their petals blue. They may be pretty to look at, but their color will only last until those flowers fall off.

Conclusion

Yes, blue orchids are real; they are known as blue Vanda orchids. Their natural habitat is the forests of Asia, and they are quite difficult to procure, especially for people in the West.

There are commercially available blue orchids, but those are most likely Phalaenopsis orchids that have been artificially dyed blue. You can buy them if you want to use their color for a once-off event, but they will not sustain their blue color. The next bloom from an artificially dyed orchid will retain the original color of the petals, and will no longer be blue. 

Image: istockphoto.com / rawintanpin

Despite its name, the satin pothos is not a pothos at all. Rather, it is a variety of the Scindapsus pictus family. Its common name is satin pothos because the shape of its leaves is quite similar to that of pothos leaves. The plant also has silver-speckled variegation on its leaves that gives it its unique look.

The cultural needs of satin pothos are also similar to those of pothos plants, which is another reason people think they are pothos plants. This is a relatively low-maintenance plant that looks great in any living space.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of the satin pothos, and how to correctly propagate it. So, if you are thinking about adding this plant to your collection, keep reading to learn more about it.

Satin pothos care

1. Water requirements

There is no universal watering schedule for satin pothos owners to follow. There are several factors that affect the speed at which the plant’s soil dries out, and you need to take all of these into account. They include the climate where you live, the season of the year and the current weather conditions. Thus, in summer in a warm climate, with little to no rainfall, you will have to water your satin pothos more frequently than someone who lives in a cold climate, during winter, with lots of snow or rain.

The best way to determine whether your satin pothos needs to be watered is by touching the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still a bit damp, wait one or two days and check it again.

You might be underwatering your plant if the leaves start to droop and curl, so make sure you do not allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Never overwater your satin pothos either, because this can lead to the roots drowning and dying. The dead roots will start to rot and will become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens, and these will exacerbate the spread of the rot to the rest of the plant. Before you know it, the entire plant will be taken over by the rot and will have a very slim chance of recovering.

If you suspect that your plant is overwatered, remove it from the pot and wash off as much of the old soil as possible. Inspect the roots closely and cut off all the brown and black parts, as these are rotten. Use sterilized scissors to do this, and make sure that only healthy, white roots remain. Spray the healthy roots with fungicide and let them air-dry for several hours. Once the roots are dry, you can plant the satin pothos in a new pot, using fresh potting mix.

Make sure the pot has sufficient drainage holes at the bottom and that the soil is well-draining.

2. Light requirements

The satin pothos likes bright, indirect light and should not be placed under direct sunlight, because this can lead to sun damage. The plant is also able to tolerate low light conditions, but if you want the leaves to be vibrant, nothing is better than bright, indirect light.

North- and east-facing windows are ideal positions, but if the only window available is one that lets in harsh light, you can diffuse the light by placing a sheer curtain over the window.

During the winter, when light is scarce, help your plant get its daily dose of light by installing grow lights. Place the lights far away from the plant in the beginning, bringing them gradually closer until you find the sweet spot that is best for the plant.

If you are growing the plant outdoors, keep it under a garden net or under a large tree so that only dappled light reaches it.

3. Humidity requirements

Because this plant is native to the Asian tropics, it appreciates a humid environment, but it can also tolerate normal household humidity.

You can help the plant out by keeping it in the bathroom, kitchen or laundry room, since these are the most humid parts of the house. You can also mist the leaves in the morning to help moisten them. Remember only to mist in the morning, because letting water droplets sit on the leaves overnight will encourage the growth of unwanted fungi.

Use a pebble tray filled with water under the plant’s pot. As the water evaporates, it will moisten the soil in the pot and the plant’s leaves.

You can also place the plant next to other plants that like humidity, so that together they can create a microclimate to help each other out.

If you have the means, you can also just buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in the room.

4. Temperature requirements

The satin pothos does well in room temperature if kept indoors. If the plant is kept outside, remember to take it in before winter starts because it cannot tolerate frost.

As long as the temperature around the plant does not enter the extremes, you should have no problem.

Refrain from placing the plant in the path of warm or cold drafts. That means keeping it away from heating vents and air conditioners. The warm or cold drafts will quickly dry out the plant’s leaves, which is not what you want.

5. Potting requirements

A well-draining potting mix is all this plant needs. If you are not sure whether your potting mix is sufficiently well-draining, just add perlite or coarse sand into the mix. These components will make the soil more airy, porous and well-draining, and will allow air and water to flow freely through the potting medium.

Use a pot that has drainage holes at the bottom so that excess water can flow out. Try not to use steel or plastic pots, because these materials are not porous and will seal in moisture too well, which can lead to root rot. Choose clay or terracotta pots, because these will allow air and water to penetrate them.

The main goal is to prevent overwatering, hence preventing fatal root rot.

6. Fertilizer requirements

This plant does not need to be fertilized; as long as the soil is rich, the plant will grow well no matter what. But, if you want to boost the plant’s growth, you can use a liquid houseplant fertilizer once a month during the spring and summer, while the plant is growing actively.

Avoid feeding the plant in the winter because this can lead to mineral buildup and soil toxicity.

7. Repotting the plant

This plant does tend to grow quite fast, so you will need to be vigilant about the possibility of it becoming rootbound. If roots start to grow out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, or if the plant’s growth seems to be slowing or stunted, your plant is probably rootbound.

You may need to repot this plant once a year because of how fast it grows. Do this during the spring and summer, when the plant is actively growing. This is because repotting is a traumatic experience for the plant, and during its growing season it will recover much faster.

When choosing a new pot, only go one size up. A pot that is too big will hold more soil, and the more soil in the pot, the more moisture is retained. This can lead to overwatering and possible root rot.

Satin pothos propagation

Propagation in soil

• Method 1

For the first method, cut a stem a quarter of an inch below a node using a sterilized pair of scissors. The cutting should include several leaves and at least one node. The node is important because this is where the new roots will sprout from. Remove any leaves that are close to the base of the cutting.

Plant the cutting in a small pot with moistened potting mix. At least one node should be buried under the soil. Place the pot where the cutting can get plenty of bright, indirect light.

You can place a plastic bag over the plant to lock in moisture and humidity, but do not forget to remove the bag once a day for a few minutes to let the plant get fresh air.

After four weeks, check the root growth by gently tugging on the cutting. If you can feel some resistance, that means the roots are well-established and you can now care for the new plant the way you would a regular plant.

• Method 2

For this method, you will also need to cut off a stem that is several inches long using sterile scissors. Make sure there are multiple nodes on the cutting, because instead of planting the cutting upright, you will be laying the stem horizontally on the potting mix with all the nodes facing down. Make sure the potting mix is moist but not soggy. You can fasten the stem onto the potting mix using paper clips or bobby pins if necessary.

Place the container in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light. You can put a clear plastic bag over the container to lock in moisture, but remember to remove the plastic bag once a day for a few minutes so that the plant can get fresh air.

After a few weeks, each node on the stem should have grown roots. You can test this by tugging gently on the vine. If there is resistance, that means that the roots are well-established and you can now care for the plant as you would a regular plant.

Propagation in water

Take a sterilized pair of scissors and cut a vine from the parent plant that is at least a few inches long. There should be at least one node on the cutting. The node is important because this is where the new roots will sprout from. Remove any leaves that are close to the base of the cutting.

Place the cutting in a glass of water, making sure the node is submerged. Place the jar where it can get plenty of bright, indirect light. Change the water in the jar when it starts to look murky, and refill it if it starts to get too low.

After a few weeks, the roots will be several inches long and you can transfer the cutting to a pot with moistened, well-draining potting mix. You can then care for the plant the same way you would a regular plant.

Conclusion

The satin pothos is a vining plant with leaves that are speckled with silver. It is a great choice as decor for any living space, because of how vibrant it is. It is low-maintenance, easy to propagate and quite hardy.

This plant likes bright, indirect light and only needs to be watered when the top two inches of soil are dry. It likes humid conditions, does well in room temperature, and needs repotting once a year and minimal feeding.

You can propagate the plant by planting a cutting upright in potting mix, planting the cutting horizontally on the potting mix to allow multiple nodes to root, or letting the cutting root in a jar of water before transferring it to a pot with moistened potting mix. After the plants have established roots in their own individual pots, they can then be cared for as you would a regular, mature plant.

Image: istockphoto.com / Firn

The neon pothos is a popular houseplant, native to the islands of French Polynesia. The bright yellow-green color of the plant’s leaves is what gives it its colorful name. This plant is quite low-maintenance and needs very little care, making it a great choice for beginner plant owners, and its eye-catching color makes it great for home decor.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of the neon pothos plant, as well as how to correctly propagate it. So, if you are thinking about adding this plant to your collection, just keep reading.

Neon pothos care

Water requirements

There is no universal schedule to follow when it comes to watering your plant. This is because the frequency of watering depends on factors such as the climate where you live, the season of the year and the current weather conditions. In other words, someone in a cold climate, during winter with lots of rainfall, will not need to water their neon pothos as much as someone in a warm climate, in the summer, with little to no rainfall.

The easiest way to determine whether your plant needs water is by touching the soil in the pot. If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant; if the soil is still quite damp, wait one or two days and check it again.

These plants can tolerate a little drought once in a while, but try to avoid letting the soil dry out completely between waterings.

The biggest mistake a plant owner can make with their neon pothos is to overwater it. An overwatered plant’s roots will drown in the soggy soil and die. The dead roots will then begin to rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens. These pathogens exacerbate the spread of the rot, and soon the entire plant will be affected. When the stems and leaves become soft and mushy, it means the plant is extremely overwatered and the rot has become so serious that the plant may no longer be salvageable.

If you suspect that your plant is overwatered, remove it from the pot and wash off as much of the old soil as you can. This is so that you can inspect the roots more easily. If there are roots that have turned brown or black, cut them off using a sterilized pair of scissors. Make sure you remove all of the rotten roots, and that only healthy, white roots remain. Spray the healthy roots with fungicide and let them dry completely before replanting the pothos in a new pot with a fresh potting mix.

Light requirements

This plant’s lime-colored leaves will be most vibrant when exposed to medium-to-bright, indirect light. Do not leave the plant under direct sunlight, because this can damage the foliage. It can tolerate low light conditions, but its leaves will become noticeably duller.

A north- or east-facing window is ideal for the plant, but if the only window available lets in harsh light, you can diffuse the intensity by placing a sheer curtain over the window.

During the winter, when sunlight is scarce, help the plant by installing grow lights.

Humidity requirements

Because the neon pothos lives in the tropical islands of French Polynesia, it appreciates a higher-than-normal humidity level. Nevertheless, the normal humidity in your home will often be sufficient for the plant.

If the weather becomes particularly dry, you can always support the plant by misting its leaves in the morning. You can also place the plant’s pot on a pebble tray filled with water. As the water in the pebble tray evaporates, it will moisten the leaves and the soil in the pot.

You could also place the plant next to other humidity-loving plants, so that together they can create a microclimate. Another trick is to keep the plant in one of the most humid rooms in your house, such as the bathroom, kitchen or laundry room.

Lastly, if you have the means, you can buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in your home.

Temperature requirements

The room temperature in your home should be perfectly fine for your neon pothos. As long as the temperature is not in the extremes for long periods, the plant should be alright.

Take the plant indoors when winter starts, because it does not do well in the snow. Do not place it near doors or windows that have cracks that let in cold air, and avoid spots where warm or cold drafts from heating and air conditioning vents can hit it. These drafts can dry out the plant’s leaves very quickly.

Potting requirements

As long as the potting mix is airy, porous, and well-draining, this is all your plant needs. The soil should allow air and water to pass through it easily, reducing the chance of overwatering and therefore also of root rot.

If you are unsure whether your soil mix is sufficiently well-draining, you can always add some perlite to your regular potting soil.

The pot you use should have drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to flow out. Refrain from using steel or plastic pots, because these materials are not breathable. Opt for terracotta or clay pots instead, because they allow air and water to penetrate.

Fertilizer requirements

You do not really need to fertilize this plant; it will grow well regardless. However, if you think the plant needs it, you can always give it regular indoor houseplant fertilizer once every two months during the spring and summer, when it is actively growing. Avoid feeding it during the fall and winter because you might end up overfeeding it, leading to mineral buildup in the soil and possible toxicity that does more harm than good.

Repotting the plant

Even if the plant looks a little rootbound, you can still let it grow a little longer in its current pot. The neon pothos does not mind being a little rootbound. You only really need to repot it every two years or so, when the roots start to grow out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. If you notice the plant’s growth slowing considerably or stopping completely, that could also indicate that the plant is very rootbound and needs to be repotted sooner rather than later.

Use a new pot that is only one size bigger than the last pot. You do not want to use a pot that is too big because a big pot holds more soil. More soil in the pot means more water is retained every time you water it, and the more water is retained, the more likely the plant is to become overwatered and get root rot.

Neon pothos propagation

Propagation in soil

There are two methods to propagate this plant in soil.

Method 1

Cut off a vine from the parent plant that has several nodes on it. Use a sterilized pair of scissors to cut a quarter of an inch below the node. It is important to include at least one node because this is where the new roots will sprout from. Remove any leaves that are close to the bottom of the cutting.

Prepare a small pot with moist potting mix and plant the cutting in it. At least one node should be buried. Place the pot where the cutting can get plenty of bright, indirect light. Place a small plastic bag over the cutting to increase the humidity around it, and remove the bag for a few minutes each day to let fresh air in.

After a couple of weeks, check the viability of the roots by tugging on the cutting. If you can feel resistance, that means the roots have established and you can proceed to care for the plant as you would a fully-grown plant.

Method 2

Cut off a longer vine than above, including multiple nodes, using sterile scissors. Instead of planting the cutting upright in the potting mix, lay the entire vine across the potting mix, making sure that all the nodes face downwards. If necessary, you can use paper clips or bobby pins to fasten the vine to the potting mix. If you do this properly, all the nodes that are attached to the potting mix will develop roots.

Place the container in a spot where the vine can get plenty of bright, indirect light. Place a plastic bag over the container to help lock in moisture and humidity, and make sure the potting mix is moist but never soggy.

After a few weeks, check the roots’ growth by gently tugging the vine. If there is resistance, the roots have grown nicely and you can now care for the plant as you would a regular plant.

Propagation in water

Cut a stem from the parent plant, making sure it has at least one node near the base of the cutting. Including a node is important because this is where the new roots are going to grow from. Remove any leaves that are close to the base of the cutting.

Place the cutting in a glass container with water, submerging the node. Place the container in a spot where the cutting gets plenty of bright, indirect light, and change the water if it starts to look murky. Refill the water if the level drops below the node.

After four weeks, the roots should be long enough that you can plant the cutting in a pot with moist potting mix. You can then care for it as you would a regular plant.

Conclusion

The neon pothos is a beautiful vining plant that has bright, yellow-green leaves. It is low-maintenance, hardy and very easy to propagate. It makes a lovely indoor plant and a great gift for beginner plant owners.

This plant likes bright, indirect light and water only when the top two inches of soil are dry. It prefers well-draining soil, room temperature, humid conditions and minimal feeding.

This plant can be propagated in soil by planting a cutting upright in the potting mix, laying the vine across the potting mix with the nodes facing downward, or letting the cutting root in water for a few weeks before transferring it to a pot.

Image: istockphoto.com / Akchamczuk

Snake plant or Sansevieria trifasciata, also known as mother-in-law’s tongue, is a popular succulent species that is easy to grow and multiply. It has stiff leaves that grow from six inches to eight feet tall and often have banded leaves with yellow borders.  Many plant growers propagate snake plants as with other succulents..

How to propagate a snake plant?

The following methods are the most common:

1. Propagating in water. 

Cut a leaf near the soil using clean and sharp cutting shears or a knife. The leaf can be divided into multiple sections for more plants. The leaf top cuttings with the pointy tip are more likely to have a higher success rate. Also, roots and new leaves grow quicker.

Dry the cuttings for a few days so the ends become callus. This will prevent them from developing roots. Put the cuttings in a glass vessel and place just enough water to cover just the bottom parts. Place it in an area with indirect light and change the water every few days. 

It could take a month or two before roots start to appear but that is ordinary. Wait until the roots are at least an inch long before placing the cuttings in fast-draining succulent soil. Mix in some perlite or pumice for better drainage.    

2. Propagating in soil.   

While propagating in water has a dramatic effect, you can also skip the water part and just use soil. To do this, cut the leaf, allow it to callus over, and place it in soil. The soil should be moist while rooting and should be less moist when roots have been established. 

The cutting won’t grow unless it is the tip and it is still intact. Once a new leaf pops up you can cut the original cutting. 

To speed up the process, use a rooting hormone powder. Immerse the cuttings in water first and dip the bottom of ¼ inch into the rooting powder. Next, fill a small pot with fast-draining and moist succulent soil and place the cuttings about ½ inch deep. 

3. Propagating through division.

For this technique, you will need newspaper or space outdoors, a clean and sharp knife or handsaw,  clean pots for the divided plants and succulent soil or potting mix. This is recommended if you want more snake plants in a short period.  It separates a single plant so it becomes two or more plants. Gently slide the plant out of its pot and place it in a newspaper or outdoors. 

Examine the roots and identify where the rhizomes are. Separate smaller snake plants in half and larger ones into more pieces. Cut the plant so there are at least three rhizomes and at least one healthy leaf per section. 

Each section needs roots, otherwise, the plant is not yet ready to divide. Give it more time to grow more roots and rhizomes.

After you have split up the plant, repot each separate plant into a new pot with fresh succulent soil. Place sufficient water and only water again if the soil is dried out. 

4. Propagating with rhizomes. 

Rhizomes are stems that grow horizontally underground. They produce new shoots called pups but you can still grow new plants without pups by using rhizomes. You will need newspaper or outdoor space, a sharp knife or shears, new pots for each rhizome and potting mixture or succulent soil. 

Place the snake plant on its side and slide it out of the pot. Check if there are rhizomes in the root area, these are whitish-looking stems that resemble cloves of garlic. Cut the rhizomes from the base of the plant. 

Make sure not to damage the roots and allow the rhizomes to callus over for a few days just as it is with soil cuttings. Once callus forms, transfer the rhizome into a new pot and wait for roots to appear. 

What are the best conditions for snake plant propagation?

These are the best conditions for snake plant propagation:

• Bright and indirect light. 
•  Soil such as succulent mix. 
• Suitable container or planter. 
• Clean utensils and equipment. 
• Appropriate amount of water.

Conclusion 

Propagating snake plants is easy with the correct materials and tools.  The common methods of snake plant propagation include water, soil, division, and the use of rhizomes. Always use healthy leaves and cuttings. For a high success rate, keep in mind the best conditions as mentioned above for snake plant propagation.

Image: istockphoto.com / Михаил Руденко

The fishbone cactus gets its name from the zig-zag shape of its leaves that resemble a fishbone. Unlike most cacti, the fishbone cactus does not call the desert home; in fact, its natural habitat is the jungles of Mexico. These are epiphytic plants, meaning that they prefer to live attached to trees rather than on the ground.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of the fishbone cactus, as well as how to propagate it correctly.

If you love cacti, or if you are considering adding this plant to your collection and wish to learn more, just keep reading.

Fishbone Cactus care

Watering

There is no set schedule for watering this plant because the frequency of watering depends on factors such as your local climate, the season of the year, and the current weather conditions. A fishbone cactus grown in a place with a cold climate, during the winter with plenty of snow and rainfall, will not need to be watered as much as the same plant grown in a warm climate, during the summer, with little to no rainfall. The faster the potting mix in the plant’s pot dries out, the more frequently it will need to be watered.

The easiest and most foolproof way to know whether your fishbone cactus needs to be watered is by touching the soil in the pot. If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the cactus, but if the soil is still a little damp, wait one or two days and check it again.

The worst watering mistake you can make is to overwater your fishbone cactus. Overwatering will result in the plant’s roots drowning and dying, and the dead roots will start to rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens. These pathogens will help the rot spread even faster to the rest of the plant until the entire plant succumbs to the rot.

Light requirements

The fishbone cactus prefers bright, indirect light, but it can tolerate light that is either more direct or lower than it prefers. However, if you want the cactus to grow well, bright, indirect light is best.

Placing the plant under direct light for long periods is not good for it and can lead to sun damage.

If the plant is kept indoors, you might need to buy grow lights to keep your fishbone cactus happy, especially during the winter when sunlight is scarce. Place the grow light some distance from the cactus for the first few days and observe how it reacts. Then, adjust the distance between the grow light and the plant accordingly.

Temperature and humidity requirements

These plants do just fine at room temperature. Make sure you bring your plant indoors before winter starts because it does not do well in frost. Remember that this plant’s natural habitat is the jungle. Do not place the plant near doors or windows where cold air from outside can hit it; the same goes for spots near heating vents or air conditioning vents. These warm or cold drafts can dry the plant out very quickly, which is not what you want.

Because the fishbone cactus is native to the jungle, it appreciates a humid environment. You can help your plant in this respect by placing it next to other humidity-loving plants so that together they can create a microclimate. If you have the means, you can also purchase a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity around the plant without you needing to worry about it.

Potting requirements

The fishbone cactus is an epiphytic cactus, so it will grow best in a potting mix that is airy and well-draining. You can make your own potting mix by combining one part indoor plant potting mix with one part orchid bark and one part perlite. There are also commercially available succulent mixes to which you can add perlite. Either will work just fine.

Regarding the pot, make sure that it has drainage holes at the bottom so that any excess water in the potting mix can simply flow out.

How to properly display your fishbone cactus

There are multiple ways you can display and grow your fishbone cactus. Since it is an epiphytic plant, you can grow it in a hanging basket to simulate how it would grow in the wild. You can even mount the fishbone cactus like you would a staghorn fern – it will make a great conversation piece when you have guests over.

Of course, if you do not want to get too crazy with the display, you can also just grow your fishbone cactus in a normal pot on a shelf or table.

Fertilizer requirements

Feeding your fishbone cactus can help boost its growth and will keep the plant healthy and happy. Give the plant liquid indoor plant fertilizer twice a month during the spring and summer, which is when the plant is actively growing. Do not overfeed it, because this can lead to soil toxicity which may end up harming your plant rather than helping it.

Pruning 

It is very easy to prune a fishbone cactus. All you need to do is take a pair of sterile scissors or shears and cut back the plant’s stem, down to the base. This will help you control the plant’s size if you do not want it to grow too large. Fortunately, the stems you remove can be used for propagating the cactus, so they will not go to waste.

Repotting the plant

The fishbone cactus only needs to be repotted every two years, because it is fine with being a little rootbound, unlike most other plants. You can tell that your plant needs repotting when roots are starting to grow out of the holes at the bottom of the pot, or when there seems to be more root than potting mix inside the pot. Do not replace the pot with one that is too big. A big pot means more potting mix, more potting mix means more moisture is retained, and the more moisture is retained, the greater the chances of overwatering and root rot.

Fishbone cactus propagation

Propagation in potting mix

1. Whole stem

You can propagate the fishbone cactus by cutting off an entire stem down to the base and leaving it for a couple of days to dry and form a callus over the cut.

Then, place the cutting in a pot with potting mix. Make sure you keep the potting mix moist but not wet while the roots start to develop. Place the pot in an area where the cutting can get lots of bright, indirect light.

You can help lock the moisture in by placing a clear plastic bag over the cutting’s pot, but remember to remove the plastic bag once a day to let fresh air in.

After a few weeks, you can check the viability of the roots by giving the cutting a gentle tug. If you can feel resistance when you pull, that means the roots are established and you can now care for the cactus the same way you would a fully-grown plant.

2. Stem cuttings

The procedure for stem cuttings is similar to that for a whole stem, described above, except that here, you cut the stem into sections.

Using a sterilized knife, remove an entire stem from your parent plant. Cut the whole stem into sections, each a few inches long, and let the cuttings dry out for a few days.

Plant each section in its own pot, and keep the potting mix moist but not overwatered. Place the pots where the cuttings can get bright, indirect light. Place a plastic bag over the cuttings to lock in moisture, and remove this every few days to let fresh air in.

After a couple of weeks, check for roots by pulling on the cutting. If there is resistance, it means the roots are well-established and you can now care for the plants as you would a fully-grown plant.

Division

Propagation by division is probably the easiest method. This technique is often used at the same time as the plant is being repotted.

Remove the parent plant from its pot and check for sections that have grown from the parent plant and have their own root systems. Separate these small sections from the parent plant slowly and gently, making sure that the entire section remains intact.

Plant each section in its own pot with potting mix, and continue to care for the new plants as you would a normal plant.

Propagation in water

For this method, cut one stem from the parent plant and allow it to dry and form a callus.

Place the cutting in a glass container of tepid water, making sure the water reaches the bottom of the cutting. Place the jar in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light, and replace the water if it starts to look murky.

After a couple of weeks, the roots will start to grow and you can transfer the cutting to a pot with potting mix.

Conclusion

The fishbone cactus is not like most cacti. Instead of growing in the desert, this cactus grows in the jungle. Its signature zig-zag shape is responsible for its amusing name.

This plant likes bright, indirect light and only needs to be watered when the top two inches of soil are dry. It likes room temperature, humid conditions, minimal pruning and minimal feeding.

You can propagate this plant using a whole stem, stem cuttings or separated sections, planted directly in potting soil. You can also let the stem cuttings root in a jar of water before transferring them to a pot with potting soil.

Image: istockphoto.com / Hari Gumilang

The cast iron plant, native to Taiwan and Japan, gets its name from its seemingly indestructible nature. This plant is perfect for beginner plant owners or those who want to beautify their space with a plant but do not have the patience or skills to care for a needy plant.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of the cast iron plant, as well as how to correctly propagate it. So, if you are considering adding a cast iron plant to your collection, keep reading.

Cast iron plant care

Light requirements

Cast iron plants prefer bright, indirect light. Do not place them under direct sunlight, because this can burn their leaves. This plant is able to tolerate low light conditions, which makes it a perfect office plant. The fluorescent lighting inside office buildings is quite enough to keep the plant alive.

If you are keeping the plant indoors, place it near a north- or east-facing window. If the only available window lets in harsh light, you can diffuse the intensity of the light by placing a sheer curtain over the window.

Water requirements

There is no set schedule for a plant owner to follow when watering this plant. The frequency of watering will depend on the climate where you live, the season of the year and the current weather conditions. In winter, in a place with a cold climate and lots of rainfall, you will not need to water the plant as much as someone who lives in a warm, dry climate, in the summer, with little to no rainfall.

The best way to know when to water the plant is by touching the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the soil is dry, you can water the plant, but if it is still damp, wait one or two days before checking the soil again.

These plants can tolerate a certain level of drought, but try not to let your plant go without water for extended periods of time. Watering it on time will always be best for it.

The worst watering mistake a plant owner can make is overwatering a plant. When the plant is overwatered, its roots will be suffocated and will drown. These dead roots will start to rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens. The pathogens will exacerbate the spread of the rot to the rest of the plant and, before you know it, the stems and leaves will be soft and mushy from excess water and rot.

If you suspect that your plant is overwatered, remove it from its pot and wash off as much of the old soil as you can without damaging the roots. Inspect the roots closely, and if you see any black or brown roots, cut them off using sterilized scissors. Make sure you remove all the rotten roots, leaving only healthy white roots behind. Spray the healthy roots with a fungicide to protect them, and let them air-dry for a few hours. When the roots are completely dry, repot the plant in a new pot that has drainage holes at the bottom, using fresh, well-draining soil. Try to be more vigilant about watering in the future, because overwatering can mean life or death for your plant.

Humidity requirements

The cast iron plant does not need humid conditions, so there is no need to take any extra measures to increase the humidity around it. It does well in dry and even drafty living conditions and will be fine in areas of the house where warm or cold drafts flow through. Nevertheless, it is still best to not expose the plant unnecessarily to any drafts that may sap its moisture faster than normal.

Temperature requirements

This plant is very hardy and can be kept outside the house for most of the year, but keep in mind that winter frost may be the one thing that can truly kill this plant. It is best to move it indoors at the start of winter to keep it happy.

The room temperature inside the house is good enough for the plant; unlike for certain other plants, there are no specific temperature preferences to cater to. As long as the temperatures are not in the extremes for any reason, the plant will do just fine.

Soil requirements

This plant is not particular when it comes to the kind of potting mix you use. Any well-draining, commercially-available indoor plant mix will do just fine. If your potting mix is not very well-draining, you can always add some perlite to the mix. Perlite is a material that makes the potting mix more airy, porous, and well-draining, reducing the chance of overwatering and therefore also root rot.

The pot you use for the plant should have drainage holes at the bottom so that any excess water in the soil will simply flow out. Avoid using plastic or steel pots because these materials do not allow water and air to pass through them as easily as clay or terracotta pots.

Fertilizer requirements

If you want to support your cast iron plant by feeding it, give it liquid indoor plant fertilizer once a month during the spring and summer, which is the plant’s growing period.

These plants are typically slow growers, so fertilizer is not a necessity.

Avoid fertilizing during the fall and winter because this can lead to soil toxicity which will do the plant more harm than good.

Repotting the plant

The cast iron plant grows slowly and can tolerate being slightly rootbound, so repotting is not urgent and does not need to be done that frequently. It is normally done every two to three years, or when the plant gets too big for the pot; that is, if the plant is literally breaking the pot or the roots are starting to grow out of the pot’s drainage holes.

When choosing a new pot, only go one size up; do not go too big for the plant. A bigger pot means more potting mix is used. More potting mix means more water will be retained, and more water increases the chances of overwatering the plant.

Repot the plant during the growing period in spring and summer. Repotting is a traumatic experience for the plant, so it will need to be actively growing in order for recovery to be swift.

Pruning the plant

Being a slow grower, the cast iron plant does not need much pruning. If there are dead or dying leaves near the base of the plant, you can remove them gently to preserve the plant’s aesthetic.

Outdoor cast iron plants are sometimes pruned if they get bigger than their owners like, but that is not often needed for plants grown indoors, because they do not get so big anyway.

If you do wish to prune your cast iron plant, make sure you use sterilized pruning tools so that you do not spread any disease.

Do your pruning during the plant’s growing period so that it can recover properly from the trauma of pruning.

Cast iron plant propagation

Propagate your cast iron plant through division. This means you are going to be taking small parts from the parent plant which will grow into their own individual plants.

You can remove the sections by uprooting the parent plant and pulling off pieces that have their own root system. Sometimes each piece you remove has multiple stems on it, which is even better. Separate it from the parent plant as gently as you can so that the roots do not break. If you need to use scissors to sever the tangled roots, do so, but only as a last resort. It is important that the roots be kept intact as much as possible.

When a section has been separated from the parent plant, place it in a pot with a well-draining potting mix. Water the potting mix, but do not overwater it. You can now care for the plant as you would a regular plant. 

It is best to propagate these plants during the spring and summer.

Conclusion

The cast iron plant is one of the hardiest, low-maintenance houseplants in the world. It is a great choice as a gift for a beginner plant owner because it is quite impossible to kill. It can tolerate drought and extreme weather conditions for a certain time and does not need to be pruned.

The plant only needs to be watered if the top two inches of potting mix are dry. It likes bright, indirect light and is completely fine with room temperature and normal humidity. It is a slow grower that does not need frequent repotting, and fertilizing is optional.

You can propagate this plant by division. This is when you separate pieces of the parent plant that have their own root system and plant them in their own pots. It is very easy to do, which is why propagating the cast iron plant is such a breeze.

Image: istockphoto.com / skymoon13

The Marble Queen Pothos is a beautiful, vining evergreen with striking leaf variegation that makes it a must-have for any plant collector.

This plant is native to French Polynesia, but has since become one of the most popular ornamental plants in the world. It is relatively easy to grow and care for and requires little maintenance, making it a good choice for beginners.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of the Marble Queen Pothos, as well as how to correctly propagate it. So, if you are thinking about adding this plant to your collection and wish to learn more about it, just keep reading.

Marble Queen Pothos care

Light requirements

The Marble Queen prefers to grow under bright, indirect light, but it can survive in most light conditions. However, if you want the variegation on its leaves to be more pronounced, it is best to keep it under bright, indirect light.

Do not place the plant under direct sunlight for extended periods of time, because this can cause sun damage on the foliage.

Because of the plant’s ability to adapt to different light conditions, it makes a great office plant and can also be kept in dimly-lit rooms like the bathroom. Of course, in these environments you should not expect the variegation to be as vibrant as it would be under lots of light. The variegation dissipates because the plant compensates for low-light conditions by producing more chlorophyll, thus turning the white parts of the leaves green.

Keeping the plant near a north- or east-facing window is ideal, but if the only window available is one that lets in harsh light, you can diffuse the light by placing a sheer curtain over it.

During the winter, when the sunlight is scarce, buy a grow light to help the plant get its required daily light.

Watering requirements

Watering your Marble Queen Pothos can be a bit challenging in the beginning. It does not like its soil to be constantly damp; in fact, it wants it to be dry half the time. This can be a blessing for plant owners who are a little forgetful when it comes to watering their plants, and an exercise in self-control for those who may be over-attentive.

There is no set schedule to follow with regard to watering the plant. The frequency of watering will depend on several factors, including the local climate, the season of the year, and the current weather conditions. In winter, in a cold climate with lots of snow or rainfall, you will not need to water the plant as often as someone who lives in a warm climate, in the summer, with little to no rainfall.

The best way to determine the need for watering is to touch the soil in the plant’s pot. If the top half of the soil is dry, water the plant, but if the top half of the soil is still a bit damp, wait one or two days and check it again.

A watering technique that works well is to completely soak the soil in the pot, and then let half of the soil dry out before watering it again. This is preferable during the spring and summer when the plant is actively growing. Remember that watering should be done more sparingly in the fall and winter because the soil will take longer to dry out.

Do not let the soil dry out for too long between waterings, because this can lead to underwatering and the leaves will start to turn brown. This may not be fatal to the plant, but it does affect its overall aesthetic.

One of the greatest watering mistakes a plant owner can make is to overwater the plant. Overwatering causes the plant’s roots to sit in constantly soggy soil, and they will drown and die. The dead roots will start to rot, and will become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens. These pathogens will make the root rot even more aggressive, and it will spread through the stems and leaves until the entire plant is affected. Unfortunately, if the plant’s stem and leaves have become mushy and brown, it means the rot has reached them and there is little chance of recovery. It is better to be vigilant enough to catch the early signs of overwatering, so that the plant is still salvageable.

If you suspect that your plant is overwatered, remove it from its pot and wash off as much of the old soil as possible. Do this gently so as not to break any of the roots. Inspect the roots and remove any brown or black rotten roots using a sterilized pair of scissors. Once you have removed all of the rotten roots, there should be only healthy, white roots remaining. Spray these roots with a fungicide and leave them to air-dry for a couple of hours. After the roots have dried, you can repot the plant in a pot that has drainage holes at the bottom, using a fresh, well-draining potting mix.

Soil requirements

The Marble Queen just needs airy, porous, well-draining soil mix in order to grow well. Any commercially available indoor plant mix is generally sufficient, but if you want to make the soil even more well-draining, you can add perlite or coarse sand to it.

The soil mix needs to be airy and porous to allow both air and water to permeate easily.

The pot you use for the plant can also affect its growth. Avoid using steel or plastic pots or containers, because these materials are too impenetrable and will not allow air and water to seep through them easily. Choose terracotta or clay pots, which are more porous and breathable.

Make sure the pot has drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to flow out in case you accidentally give the plant more water than needed.

Temperature requirements

The Marble Queen does well at room temperature, so no extra measures are needed when it comes to its temperature requirements. If you grow the plant outdoors, you may need to take it indoors or put up some protection in order for it to survive the winter.

Indoors, as long as the temperature is between 65 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant should be just fine.

Humidity requirements

Because the Marble Queen Pothos is a tropical plant, it appreciates a humid environment. You can help the plant with this by keeping it in the bathroom, laundry room, or kitchen, as these rooms are the most humid parts of the house.

You can also mist the plant’s leaves every once in a while to keep them from drying out. Only mist them in the mornings, though, so that there is enough time to let the water evaporate before nightfall. In the evenings, the water droplets might stay on the leaves for too long, and this can encourage the growth of unwanted fungi.

Another technique to increase humidity is to use a pebble tray filled with water. Place the plant’s pot over the pebble tray and, as the water evaporates, it will moisten the soil and the plant’s leaves.

You can also position the plant next to other plants that like high humidity, so that together they can create a microclimate.

If you have the means, you can also buy a humidifier and let the machine regulate the humidity without you needing to worry about it.

Refrain from placing the plant in a spot where warm or cold drafts from heating vents or air conditioners can reach it. The drafts can dry out the plant’s leaves very quickly and this should be avoided.

Fertilizer requirements

The Marble Queen does not really need to be fertilized, but if you want to boost the plant’s growth, you can give it an organic indoor plant fertilizer once a month during the spring and summer. Refrain from feeding the plant during the winter, because this can lead to soil toxicity and may do the plant more harm than good.

Marble Queen Pothos propagation

Propagation in soil mix

There are two methods of propagating this plant in soil mix.

In the first method, you take a cutting from the parent plant using sterilized scissors. Make sure you cut the stem a quarter of an inch below the node; this is important because the node is where the new roots will sprout from. Remove any leaves that are too close to the base of the cutting.

In a small pot filled with moistened soil mix, plant the cutting deep enough that at least one node is buried, but make sure no leaves are buried.

Move the pot to a place where the cutting can get plenty of bright, indirect light. You can also help maintain the humidity around the plant by placing a small plastic bag over it. Remove the bag for a few minutes every day to let fresh air in. Try to keep the soil mix moist and never let it completely dry out.

After a few weeks, you can check the viability of the roots. Do this by pulling gently on the plant; if you can feel some resistance, that means that the roots have established well and you can now care for the plant as you would a normal, fully-grown Marble Queen Pothos.

The second method entails removing a long stem from the parent plant that has multiple nodes on it. Use sterile scissors to cut the stem.

You need a container that can accommodate the entire stem laid down across the soil mix. All of the nodes have to be facing downward, into the soil mix. Make sure the soil mix is moist, and push the nodes gently down into the soil. You can fasten them into the soil mix using bobby pins. Once secured, transfer the container to a spot where the cutting can get lots of bright, indirect light. You can place a clear plastic bag over the container to increase the humidity around the cutting and to lock in the moisture. Do not forget to remove the plastic bag for a few minutes a day to let some fresh air in.

After a few weeks, all the nodes on the cutting should have sprouted their own roots. You can check if the roots have grown well by pulling gently on the stem and checking for resistance.

Propagation in water

Propagating the Marble Queen in water is quite simple. You can even leave the plant in the water and let it grow there, but note that it will not grow as fast as a pothos in soil. It is best to only let the plant root in water, and then to transfer it to the soil.

Use a clean pair of scissors to cut the stem off the parent plant a quarter of an inch below a node. Remove any leaves that are close to the base of the cutting. It is vital to include the node because this is where the new roots will sprout from.
Place the cutting in a glass container filled with water, making sure the node is submerged underwater. No leaves should be submerged.

Move the container to a spot where the cutting can get lots of bright, indirect light. Replace the water if it becomes murky and top it up if it starts to get low.

After a few weeks, the roots should be several inches long and you can transfer the cutting to its own pot with soil mix.

Conclusion

The Marble Queen Pothos is a beautiful, vining evergreen plant that is low-maintenance and very easy to propagate. Its variegated leaves make the plant a must-have for any avid plant collector.

This plant likes bright, indirect light, and should be watered only when half of the soil in the pot is dry. It does fine at normal room temperature and likes higher-than-normal humidity and minimal feeding.

Image: istockphoto.com / MAsummerbreak

This plant can be propagated either by planting the cutting directly into the soil, placing an entire stem with multiple nodes onto the soil mix, or by letting the cutting root in a glass of water before transferring it to a pot with soil mix in it.

The Marble Queen Pothos is a great gift for beginner gardeners because it is quite forgiving and reproduces quickly while bringing a touch of beauty to any home.

Image: istockphoto.com / aphichart

The boat orchid, or Cymbidium orchid, is a flower commonly used in flower arrangements and corsages. This is because of the size of the blooms, which can grow as big as six inches across. These blooms can last between eight to twelve weeks if properly cared for.

The boat orchid is native to the Himalayas, but has since found its way to many parts of the world. The large blooms and patterned lip are what makes the boat orchid such a great choice as an indoor plant.

In this article, we will discuss this orchid’s proper cultural care and the correct way to propagate it. If you are considering the addition of the boat orchid to your collection and wish to learn more, just keep reading.

Boat orchid care

1. Watering requirements

There is no set schedule that you should follow when watering your boat orchid. The frequency of watering will depend on several factors, such as the climate where you live, the season and the current weather.

A boat orchid grown in a cold climate, during the winter, with plenty of snow and rainfall will not need to be watered as much as one in a place with a warm climate and little to no rainfall.

It is best to properly soak the potting medium with water less frequently, rather than water it lightly and often. These plants also prefer distilled or filtered water as opposed to tap water. You can also collect rainwater to use on the plant.

While it is good not to overwater the plant, do not let the potting medium dry out too much between waterings either.

The easiest way to determine whether the plant needs to be watered is by touching the top two inches of the potting medium. If the potting medium is dry, water the plant, but if it is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Try not to get any of the leaves wet when you water your boat orchid. You can take the pot to the sink or a basin and let water flow directly onto and through the potting medium while keeping the leaves dry. Water droplets on the leaves can encourage the growth of fungi, so avoid getting the leaves wet whenever possible.

You should make sure that the pot you use for your boat orchid has drainage holes at the bottom and that the potting medium is well-draining so that any excess water will simply flow out.

Overwatering is one of the biggest mistakes a plant owner can make. It can lead to root rot, which is when the roots of the plant die from being constantly wet or standing in stagnant water. The dead roots will become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens which will make the rot spread even faster to the rest of the plant.

If you suspect that your boat orchid has root rot, remove it from its pot and shake off as much of the old potting medium as you can. Inspect the roots properly and remove any that have turned brown or black, because those are the rotten ones. Dispose of the rotten roots properly and spray the remaining healthy roots with a fungicide. Replant the orchid in a pot with sufficient drainage holes, using fresh, well-draining potting medium.

2. Soil requirements

Because the boat orchid is an epiphyte, meaning it naturally grows on the sides of trees and other plants, you need to plant it in a potting medium that is specially designed for orchids.

The main factors to keep in mind when choosing a potting medium for your boat orchid are great air circulation and water drainage for the plant’s aerial roots.

Orchid bark is one of the most popular choices of substrates to include in the boat orchid’s potting medium, because it promotes airflow and also gives the roots ample space to grow into. The addition of sphagnum moss and peat is also encouraged, because these will help to retain some moisture and acidify the soil, which the plant likes.

You can also add perlite to the potting medium to make it even more well-draining and less prone to overwatering.

The perfect mix of components will also depend on the climate, season and weather where you live. If you live in a place that gets lots of rain, you will need to add more draining components and less water-retaining components. If you live in a warm place, you will need to add more water-retaining components in case the potting medium dries out faster than is optimal for the plant.

3. Light requirements

The boat orchid likes a lot of light, but it should always be indirect light. North- and east-facing windows are ideal because they let in the right kind of light for most of the day. If the only available window lets in harsh light, you can always place a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the intensity of the light.

It is completely fine to place the orchid outdoors during the summer to help encourage blooming, as long as it is kept under a garden net or under the shade of a large tree. Never leave the plant out under direct sunlight, because it will only take a couple of hours for the foliage to burn.

These plants only get stippled light through the forest’s tree canopy in the wild, so simulating that situation is best for these plants.

You can tell that your boat orchid is getting too much light if the leaves turn a yellow color as opposed to a more yellowish-green, which is their norm.

In the winter, when sunlight is scarce, set up some grow lights to help your plant and keep it happy.

4. Temperature requirements

Because boat orchids are native to the Himalayas, they do much better in cold climates than many other orchid species.

Keep the plant in a place with temperatures between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer, and with night-time temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. As long as the temperature around the plant does not get into the extremes, it should be completely fine.

Exposing the plant to temperatures that are 20 degrees lower than normal can also trigger it to produce flower spikes. The moment you see the buds, though, you need to place the plant somewhere warmer again.

The temperature drop during spring evenings can also trigger blooming.

If the plant is kept indoors, do not place it where warm or cold drafts can hit it. The warm or cold air can cause the plant to dry out very quickly.

5. Humidity requirements

Because these orchids live in colder regions, they do not need as much humidity as other orchids that come from jungles. This orchid is fine with a humidity level of 40 to 60 percent. The normal humidity inside most homes is usually around this level, so you do not have to do much in terms of catering to the boat orchid’s humidity requirements.

However, if you do live in a place that has a dry climate, you can help the orchid out by placing its pot on top of a pebble tray filled with water. When the water in the tray evaporates, it will moisten the soil in the pot as well as the plant’s foliage. You can also place the boat orchid near other plants that enjoy a slightly higher humidity, so that together they can create a microclimate around their little group.

If you have the means, you can also buy a humidifier to help automatically regulate the humidity in your home without you needing to worry about it.

Some people mist their orchids, but that is not as effective in maintaining humidity around the plant when compared to the other techniques listed above. Misting also leaves droplets of water on the leaves, which can encourage the growth of fungi and will ultimately lead to more problems than solutions.

6. Fertilizer requirements

Fertilize the boat orchid with a balanced fertilizer designed specifically for orchids. It is best to dilute the fertilizer to half or a quarter of the strength suggested by the manufacturers.

Fertilize the plant after the blooms have fallen off, as a way of replenishing the nutrients that the plant has used to produce the flowers.

In the summer, when new buds are starting to appear, feed the plant once a week. In the fall and winter, feed it only every two weeks. Do not give the plant too much fertilizer, because this can lead to mineral buildup in the potting medium and toxicity in the plant.

Boat orchid propagation

• The boat orchid has pseudobulbs that grow on the outside part of the plant and support the foliage. There are dormant pseudobulbs in the center of the plant as well.

• You can propagate boat orchids by separating these pseudobulbs from the parent plant and placing them in their own pots, where they will soon grow into their own boat orchids.

• The best time to propagate the boat orchid is right after the blooms have fallen off, at the tail-end of spring.

• Remove the orchid from the pot and shake off as much of the potting medium as you can. Untangle the roots as gently as possible, trying not to damage them.

• Use a sterilized knife to cut off each pseudobulb. The outer pseudobulbs will be easier to remove, and once you have dealt with these, you can start dividing the inner bulbs.

• Place each bulb in its own pot, in a potting mix of four parts bark chips to one part perlite.

• After a few weeks the roots will have developed, and after a few months new growth will appear. In about a year, the backbulb will produce an entirely new plant.

• Soon the bulb will grow a second pseudobulb and you can then transfer the plant to a bigger pot.

• The propagated orchids can take up to several years before producing their first bloom.

Conclusion

The boat orchid is a beautiful plant with fragrant flowers that measure up to six inches across. It is native to the foothills of the Himalayas, and thus more tolerant of cold weather and lower humidity than most orchid species.

The boat orchid only needs to be watered when the top two inches of potting medium are dry, and it likes bright, indirect light, well-draining potting medium, room temperature and humidity, and frequent fertilizing.

This orchid is propagated by separating the pseudobulbs from the parent plant and planting them in their own pots. It can take several years for the bulb to produce a plant mature enough to bloom, so you need to be patient when propagating these plants.

Image: istockphoto.com / MAsummerbreak

The most common reason for the edges of your orchid’s leaves to turn yellow is a nutrient deficiency – specifically potassium. You will often see patches and spots of yellow on the tips and edges of the plant’s leaves in this case.

You can remedy a lack of potassium by feeding the plant with a balanced fertilizer made specifically for orchids.

In this article, we will discuss the reasons your orchid’s leaves might develop yellow edges, and what you can do to remedy this. We will also discuss the causes of yellowing orchid leaves in general, so that you can differentiate between these various discoloration problems.

Why do my orchid’s leaves have yellow edges?

Orchids do not need to be fertilized as much as most other plants, which is why it may be easy to neglect that aspect of your orchid’s cultural care.

Sometimes, the nutrients present in the orchid’s growing medium become depleted. If they are  not replenished, the plant will develop a nutrient deficiency and the tips of its leaves will become discolored.

Common deficiencies include nitrogen, iron, zinc and manganese, but the most common is potassium. All of these nutrients are essential in the orchid’s life cycle.

You can remedy a nutrient deficiency in an orchid by feeding the plant twice a month with a balanced fertilizer. Make sure, however, that you only fertilize the plant while it is actively growing. Refrain from feeding it during the winter because this can lead to possible toxicity due to a mineral buildup in the potting medium.

What else causes yellowing orchid leaves?

1. Too much light

In their natural habitat, many orchids live in the rainforests, growing on the sides of trees and protected from the harsh sunlight by the forest canopy. These plants only ever get stippled sunlight in the forest. This is why, when orchids are grown in homes, they should be placed in spots where they only get bright, indirect light.

If your orchid gets too much direct light, the leaves will turn yellow and may also get sun-damaged.

Fortunately, it is very easy to fix this problem. All you need to do is transfer the plant to a spot where it will not get such harsh light.

Keep the plant near a north- or east-facing window in the summer, and transfer it to a south- or west-facing window during the winter. If the only window available is letting in harsh light, you can diffuse the intensity by placing a sheer curtain over the window.

2. Temperature changes

Try to keep your orchid in a room with temperatures between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. This may seem daunting, but it is pretty much just room temperature in most US homes.

If the ambient temperature falls below 60 degrees or goes higher than 80 degrees, the orchid may suffer from temperature stress, leading to the yellowing of the leaves.

Avoid temperature stress by using a thermometer to monitor the temperature in the room where the plant is kept. If the area is too hot or too cold, find a different spot in the house that is more suitable for your plant.

3. Overwatering

The leaves on your orchid will turn yellow if it is overwatered, because the roots have been compromised and are no longer able to absorb water and nutrients effectively.

Overwatering also leads to root rot, which can eventually kill all the roots of the plant.

You can revive an overwatered orchid by correcting your watering routine and making sure you let the potting medium dry out between waterings. If there are dead or dying roots, remove them using sterilized pruning shears.

The best way to know when you need to water your orchid is by touching the potting medium. If the medium is still damp, wait one or two days and check it again. If the potting medium is dry, you can water the plant.

It is much more difficult to overwater a plant when the pot has drainage holes at the bottom and when the potting medium is well-draining.

4. Transplant stress

When you buy an orchid from a store, you are taking it away from living conditions that it has been accustomed to for months. You might notice that the plant’s leaves turn yellow after a few days of living in your home. Do not worry; this is completely normal and is just a case of the plant trying to adjust to its new surroundings.

Remember that plants are grown in near-perfect conditions in nurseries and greenhouses. So, the moment they leave this pristine environment, they will become stressed by the sudden changes in light, temperature, humidity and watering schedule.

The best thing you can do in this situation is make sure that you are simulating, as closely as possible, the plant’s ideal conditions. The plant will soon get used to the changes and the discoloration will sort itself out.

5. Overfeeding

Orchids do not really need to be fertilized, so overfeeding can be a very easy mistake to make. Adding too much fertilizer to the potting medium leads to an excess of nutrients and minerals, which is ultimately not good for the plant. If the plant absorbs too much of certain nutrients, it will stop absorbing iron. Iron chlorosis manifests as the yellowing of the plant’s leaves.

You can remedy this situation by doing proper research on correct orchid fertilization.

Dilute the fertilizer to half- or quarter-strength; even better, use fertilizer that is made specifically for orchids.

You can also flush out any mineral buildup by letting water flow through the potting medium.

Fertilize your orchid after its blooms have dropped to help the plant regain the nutrients it used to produce the blooms.

Disease

Bacterial brown spot

Your orchid may have bacterial brown spot if there are yellow or brown spots on the leaves. This is most commonly found on orchids that are kept in hot and humid areas. The stress of the disease causes the leaves to turn yellow.

Treat the plant by removing as many of the infected leaves as possible. Make sure you use sterilized scissors to do this. Use a bacterial spray on the plant to protect it from other infections and to prevent the spread of the disease.

Fungal leaf spot

Fungal leaf spot causes yellowing of the undersides of the orchid’s leaves. If you do not treat this disease as soon as possible, these spots will coalesce and form larger brown or black patches.

Remove the affected leaves and dispose of them properly so that the fungus does not infect your other plants. Spray down the plant with a fungicide to kill the fungus and to protect it from reinfection. Make sure you quarantine the plant from your other plants while you treat it.

Root rot

Root rot happens when compromised roots are attacked by opportunistic pathogens. These pathogens cause the rot to spread to the rest of the plant at an alarming rate, and before you know it, the entire plant can be affected and may not be salvageable.

Rotten roots are brown or black in color and soft and mushy to the touch.

You can salvage the plant if there are still white or green roots remaining after you have cut off all the rotten roots.

Natural process

The yellowing of an orchid’s leaves is not necessarily pathological. Quite often, the leaves are turning yellow simply as part of the plant’s natural life cycle.

The most mature leaves and stems of the plant will turn yellow and die in order for the plant to concentrate its resources on producing new growth.

These old leaves will simply fall off after some time.

You will know the yellowing is natural if only the lowest leaves are affected by the discoloration. If the leaves at the top are turning yellow, it is most likely not due to natural dieback.

Refrain from forceably removing the dying leaves. Wait for them to fall off, because removing them prematurely can lead to increased risk of diseases.

Conclusion

Orchid leaves’ edges will turn yellow when the plant has a nutrient deficiency. This is often a potassium deficiency that can be remedied by the application of a fertilizer made specially for orchids.

Other causes of yellowing orchid leaves are too much light, overfeeding, overwatering, disease, temperature changes, transplant stress and natural processes.

The best way to prevent the yellowing of orchid leaves is to make sure you are caring correctly for your plant and protecting it from outside factors such as disease. The better you can simulate the living conditions of the orchid’s natural habitat, the happier the plant will be.

Image: istockphoto.com / alexytrener

Overall, the cultural care for mini orchids is exactly the same as for regular-sized orchids. They are basically the same plants, only smaller. The main differences in the approach to a mini orchid’s care are that they will obviously need less water and less fertilizer. The orchid bark used for regular-sized orchids may be too big for mini orchids, so you will be better off using sphagnum moss for the latter.

In this article, we will discuss how to care properly for mini orchids, so if you are considering adding one of these to your collection, keep reading.

What are mini orchids?

Before we dive into the proper care of mini orchids, let us first discuss what exactly mini orchids are.

Mini orchids belong to the same large family as regular orchids, but there are only a handful of orchid species that can be categorized as mini. They are noticeably smaller than most orchids, and also have smaller flowers. Rather than just being baby versions of regular orchids, mini orchid species are actually genetically smaller than other orchids. 

These orchids are naturally occurring species and not genetically modified plants.

What are some examples of mini orchids?

There are many different species of mini orchids, but most are quite rare and only a few will be available at any given time in flower shops or nurseries.

The terms ‘dwarf orchid’ and ‘darling orchid’ can refer to any mini orchid, but these are not specific to the genus of the plant. If you are going to buy a mini orchid, ask the vendor to name the plant so that you have an easier time researching its specific care.

The following are the most common and most popular mini orchid species:

• Masdevallia orchids have unique-looking, thin, elongated flowers. If you want a mini orchid to catch the eye of your house guests, this is the plant for you.

• The Platystele orchid has very small flowers that can barely be seen with the naked eye. The petals on the flowers are so thin that you can almost see through them.

• Lepanthes orchids can be seen in the wild, and have orange and yellow flowers.

• Pleurothallis orchids can produce more flowers than the typical orchid, and also do not have the typical orchid shape. Their hundreds of flowers make the Pleurothallis perfect for flower arrangements.

• The Dracula orchid has dark-colored flowers that make it aesthetically pleasing and a striking choice for home decor.

Mini orchid care

1. Light requirements

Mini orchids like the kind of bright, indirect light they would get from a windowsill. They cannot be placed under direct sunlight because this can lead to sun-damaged foliage.

You will know that the plant is getting too much sun if its leaves are turning red or yellow. Do not worry, though, because all your need to do is transfer the plant to a different location.

If the only available window is letting in light that is too harsh, you can place a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the light. Choose a south- or east-facing window; avoid west-facing windows if you can.

2. Watering requirements

Mini orchids require less water than regular-sized orchids. In the winter, you will only need to water your orchid once a week. Pour distilled or filtered water over the potting medium and make sure it is saturated, but also ensure that any excess water flows out from the bottom of the pot.

During the warmer months, water the orchid twice a week because the soil will be drying at a much faster rate.

Because orchids like humidity levels between 70 and 80 percent, you may need to mist them once in a while to keep their environment humid. You can also use a pebble tray with water for this. Place the orchid’s pot on top of the pebble tray, so that as the water evaporates, it will moisten the soil and the foliage of the plants.

You can also get a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity inside your home without you needing to worry about it.

3. Temperature requirements

The mini orchid prefers temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit in the daytime, but it can tolerate temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit at night.

Keep the plant away from cold or warm drafts, like underneath heating or air conditioning vents. The warm or cold air will dry out the plant’s foliage very quickly.

4. Fertilizer requirements

The mini orchid does not really need to be fertilized. But, if you want the plant to reach its full potential, feed it once a month with a quarter-strength fertilizer during its growing period in the spring and summer. If your plant is not blooming as much as you would like it to, you can use a fertilizer that is high in phosphorus to help it out.

5. Supporting your mini orchid

Just because mini orchids are small, this does not mean they do not need support and structure. If you need to place a rod to support the plant’s stem, go ahead and do so.

6. Potting mini orchids

If you need to repot your mini orchid, take it out of its old pot by turning it upside down and tapping the bottom of the pot. If you need to, you can use a knife to loosen the potting medium and remove the plant more easily.

Remove the plant gently from its old pot and slowly remove as much of the old potting medium as possible from the tangled roots. Try shaking the roots and poking between them to remove any material stuck there.

If you find any roots that are brown, black, mushy or brittle, remove them using a sterilized cutting tool like a knife or pruning shears. These roots must be removed because they are either rotten from overwatering or dry from underwatering.

Once you have removed all of the compromised roots, place the plant in a new pot that is one size larger than the old pot. Position the plant close to one side of the pot, so that new growth will grow towards the front of the pot. For monopodial orchids, however, you can plant them in the center of the new pot because these orchids will grow straight upward anyway.

The position of the plant in the new pot should be at the same level as it was in the old pot. Place styrofoam peanuts at the very bottom of the pot; this can improve the drainage of the potting medium. You can then add fresh potting medium to the pot.

If you want to give the plant more support, place a rod or a stake in the middle of the pot and secure the plant to it with some string.

Conclusion

The cultural care of mini orchids is very similar to that of regular-sized orchids. The only real differences are that they will obviously need less water and less fertilizer.

Mini orchids like bright, indirect light, moderately high humidity, temperatures that do not get to either extreme, minimal feeding, and repotting when the roots start to become crowded.

Mini orchids require the same amount of maintenance as most regular-sized orchids, so you do not need to worry that they might be too fragile or high-maintenance to grow and care for. As long as you provide your mini orchid with its basic needs, you will have a plant that brings light to your home for many years.

Image: istockphoto.com / izzzy71

You can tell a lot about an orchid’s conditions by simply looking at its roots. When an orchid’s roots are brittle and dry, the plant is being underwatered, but when the roots are mushy and brown, it is being overwatered and has root rot. Diseases brought about by pathogens can also target orchid roots and cause problems.

Having unhealthy roots is not always a death sentence for your orchid, and there are many ways you can salvage the plant.

In this article, we will discuss the different signs to watch out for in order to identify unhealthy roots, and what one should do to remedy the problem.

If you suspect that your orchids have unhealthy roots and you want to learn more, just keep reading.

What do orchid roots do for the plant?

Before we dive into the signs of unhealthy orchid roots, let us first discuss why it is so important to care for your orchid’s roots.

Orchid roots store extra nutrients and minerals for the plant. The roots can literally become a storage cellar of food for the plant, which it can use up when nutrients in the environment are scarce.

Roots also help anchor the plant onto its potting medium. This helps keep it in place so that, even if it is not grown in soil, it is still able to remain steady.

The most important job of orchid roots is the absorption of the water and minerals that the plant needs to survive. If the roots are defective, the orchid will not be able to hydrate and feed itself. Because orchids are epiphytic, their roots are able to absorb all they need directly from the air around them. 

Thus, keeping an orchid’s roots healthy is important to keep the whole plant healthy.

Healthy vs. unhealthy orchid roots

Healthy orchid roots are white or green in color. They are not always bright green, but become so just after they are watered. You should note that the roots are only bright green after watering and that they are not supposed to be bright green at all times. Healthy roots are firm when you touch them. 

Unhealthy orchid roots can either look brown and feel soft and mushy, or they can be dry and brittle. Orchid roots that are always bright green may also be a sign of overwatering.

What are the common diseases of orchid roots?

1. Fungal diseases

When you see yellow or pink growth on the orchid’s roots, this is most probably due to fungi. Fungal diseases can become rampant if the roots are left to stand in water for long periods of time.

Mold grows on orchid roots when the climate is humid or hot. Molds love moisture, so being a little too enthusiastic with watering or misting can also have its downsides.

Placing the plant near a source of warm air, such as an air conditioner, can also cause mold to grow. It is possible that it started to grow while still in the flower shop, but has only become apparent after bringing the plant home.

Look for white mold on the roots, especially if you are prone to overzealous watering. If the potting medium is constantly wet, white fungus will grow on the roots and in the potting medium itself.

You can prevent the growth of mold by making sure that the potting medium is well-draining and aerated.

Blue mold also appears in humid conditions and after too much watering. The spores may already be present in the bark where the orchids are grown.

Snow fungus also likes moist environments and looks like white balls that appear on the potting medium. Fortunately, this fungus does not do much harm to the orchid, but it will drain some of the nutrients from the potting medium. Change the potting medium and spray the roots with fungicide to protect them. 

Reduce your watering frequency to discourage the growth of mold and fungi. Prevent fungal diseases in orchid roots by making sure the plant’s pot or container is well-draining. Try not to expose the plant to sudden temperature changes, because this can lead to fungal colonies on the roots and on the potting medium. Make sure the potting medium is airy and loose so that oxygen can flow through it freely.

You can also water the roots with a citric acid solution once every two weeks. Add half a teaspoon of citric acid to a glass of water and use that to water the plant.

Another trick is to place dry orange peels on the surface of the potting medium to keep the spores of any fungi from penetrating the substrate.

Some people also swear by the use of garlic to rid the potting medium of fungi.

2. Bacterial diseases

When an orchid’s roots are infected by bacteria, they will have ulcerations and they will soften. These soft parts are rotten and will need to be removed as soon as possible. Cut off the infected roots to prevent further spread of the disease. Make sure you use sterilized pruning shears to do this.

You can tell that your orchid has a bacterial infection if the leaves and the roots both look darker than normal. Bacteria can also cause the roots to rot, and spots to appear on the leaves.

Bacterial infections are more likely to occur when humidity and room temperature are high, and when there is lots of moisture. Bacterial infections can spread from one plant to another if the first infected plant is not separated from the others in time. The orchids can also be infected by unclean water, especially if they are being watered at the same time from the same source.

Another way that orchids become infected with bacteria is through disease-carrying insects.

Bacterial diseases can be treatable, but the sooner the disease is identified, the better the chances of recovery for the plant.

Remember to keep the plant away from your other plants while you are treating it in order to control the spread. 

3. Viral diseases

When you see spots and stripes appearing on the roots, this could be due to a viral infection. The entire plant will be affected. Unfortunately, viral diseases in orchids are rarely treatable, so you are better off destroying the plant and disposing of it properly. This is the best thing to do, rather than risk the rapid spread of the virus across all of your plants.

Why are my orchid’s roots turning black?

There are different reasons your orchid’s roots might turn black. These include old age, bacteria, fungi, overwatering or insufficient light.

Why are there spots on the roots of my orchid?

As mentioned above, this can be due to a viral infection, but it can also be a fungal infection. 

Why is the base of my orchid black?

If the orchid is kept in a dark room, it will rot at the base. Because orchids are inherently tropical plants, they do not like cold temperatures, so refrain from keeping your orchid in places with low temperatures.

Why are the tips of my orchid’s roots black?

Orchid roots turn black and become dry at the tips when you overfeed them, when the fertilizer is too concentrated, or when you constantly use hard water when watering the orchid.

You can try to remedy this by flushing out as much fertilizer as possible under a stream of warm water. You should do this several times, making sure to let any excess water drip out so that the plant is not overwatered.

Why are the roots of my orchid dry?

When your orchid does not get enough water, the roots will dry out and even die. This happens more easily in hot, dry climates.

The drying out of the roots can also be due to the plant’s natural aging process, so you do not need to always assume the worst. Roots, like leaves and blooms, also only exist for a certain amount of time and will die at some point. These roots often last only between two to three years. When the old roots die and fall off, the plant will grow new, young roots to replace them.

You may need to transplant your orchid every two years or so, and at the same time you can also remove any dead roots. This way, you can keep the plant healthy and maintain its overall aesthetic.

Conclusion

Unhealthy orchid roots are either brown and mushy, dry and brittle, black at the tips, or have white spots on them.

Healthy roots are white, becoming bright green only when they have recently been watered.

In order to keep an orchid’s roots healthy, you need to be vigilant with your watering routine. Do not let any of the roots come into contact with stagnant water, and make sure the orchid’s pot and potting medium are well-draining and aerated.

The potting medium should be able to dry out between waterings, and the plant should get plenty of bright, indirect light. Be on the lookout for pests and diseases so you can treat the plant in the early stages of any infection.

As long as you provide an orchid with its most basic cultural needs and protect it from infections or infestations, it can live to be several decades old.

Image: istockphoto.com / alexytrener

Orchids are known to live for a long time, especially when they are well cared for. Some even grow to be 20 years or older. However, even though some orchids reach this age, they will still produce noticeably fewer flowers and will become weaker with age. The older the orchid, the more defenseless they become against fungi and bacteria, so this should also be taken into account when figuring out an orchid’s lifespan.

In this article, we will discuss how long an orchid lives, the factors that affect its lifespan, and what plant owners can do to extend the lifespan of their orchids.

Orchid life cycle

Before we dive into the lifespan of an orchid, let us first try to understand the life cycle of the orchid.

The orchid’s life cycle starts the same way as that of most plants, with pollination aided by insects. A capsule behind the flower will start to form the seed immediately after pollination. This small capsule can hold several thousand dust seeds.

The seeds can take a few weeks to up to several months to mature, depending on the type of orchid you are growing. Examples of orchids whose seeds take a long time to mature are Cymbidiums and Cattleyas, while other orchids’ seeds only take weeks to mature.

Unlike other plant seeds that have endosperms to provide nutrition for the seed, orchids need fungi to help their seeds germinate and aid the absorption of nutrients by the seeds.

The process is different for hybrid orchids grown in laboratories. These are bred to form protocorms, which are green tissue clusters that will eventually turn into new plants. The healthy germinated seeds are then transferred to their own pots where they will hopefully grow into a mature plant.

How long does it take for an orchid to grow?

Depending on the type of orchid, it can take anywhere between a few months to a year to reach maturity. This wide range is due to the various different habitats of all the varieties of orchids.

Monopodial orchids produce leaves that fan out from one shoot and will keep growing from its apex, while sympodial orchids have a branched rhizome that produces multiple shoots that cease growing when they mature.

Most orchids will take between eight to twelve months before they are mature enough to start blooming, and because orchids are perennial plants, they will produce more flowers again after eight to twelve months.

How long does an orchid bloom last?

As mentioned above, most orchids bloom once a year only and these flowers will last several weeks or months, depending on the type of orchid. However, there are newly-developed hybrids that are designed to be able to bloom multiple times a year, or even continuously.

Some people trigger blooms by lowering the temperature to below 15 degrees Fahrenheit overnight. This is because orchid blooming is triggered by seasonal changes.

How long does an orchid live?

Orchids have very impressive lifespans, considering their reputation for being delicate and high-maintenance.

When an orchid plant receives proper care, it can live anywhere between 15 and 20 years. You will notice that the orchid will gradually produce fewer and fewer blooms over the years, and that the foliage will also become weaker.

Another factor that can increase the lifespan of your orchid is keeping it safe from diseases and pests. If the plant is kept indoors where diseases and pests will have a harder time getting to it, the lifespan will increase considerably.

Tips on how to lengthen an orchid’s lifespan

• As discussed, the reason orchids can live to be two decades old is the quality of care they receive. Providing the best care for your plant always starts with extensive research on the proper cultural care for that specific orchid species.

• Make sure you place the orchid in a spot where it gets bright, indirect light and never harsh, direct light. It will appreciate the light, but the heat from direct sunlight may be too much for its delicate foliage.

• The temperature of the room where you keep the orchid is also important. Make sure the temperature stays between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature enters the extremes, this can greatly affect your orchid.

• Orchids like their growing medium to be moist from time to time, but their roots need to be able to access air at all times. If the potting medium is constantly wet, this can lead to root rot and encourage the growth of fungi that can really harm your orchid. When watering the plant, make sure the potting medium is soaked, but the key is to ensure that it drains well and fast. As long as the medium lets water drain away quickly, the risk of root rot is greatly decreased.

• The type of medium will depend on the type of orchid you are growing, but it will usually be a combination of coconut fiber, gravel, perlite, bark and sphagnum moss. The medium should give the roots a good drink with every watering, while not allowing the water to overstay its welcome.

• Because most orchids are epiphytes, they are able to absorb water and nutrients from the air itself, which is why they do not need the nutrients found in traditional potting mix.

• The best way to know whether your orchid needs watering is to touch the top of the potting mix. If the potting mix is dry, water the orchid, but if it is still slightly damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

• Because most orchids are native to tropical forests, they like humid conditions. Usually the 50 to 70 percent humidity inside a house is sufficient for your orchid, but if you live in a place where the air is drier than normal, you may need to take measures to help increase the humidity.

• Winters can also cause the air to become drier than your orchid likes. You may need to mist the orchid every morning, or you can keep a pebble tray filled with water near or under the orchid’s pot. When the water in the water pebble tray starts to evaporate, it will moisten the foliage as well as the potting medium.

• If you have the means, you can also purchase a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity inside your house without you needing to worry about it.

Which orchid varieties live for a long time?

There really are no specific types of orchids that are guaranteed to live long lives. It usually depends on the care that the plant is given. Being that the lifespan is care-dependent, it could be said that the easiest-to-care-for orchids are the ones that will live the longest.

One of the most popular and easiest-to-care-for orchids is the Phalaenopsis orchid. These are relatively low-maintenance compared with most orchids, and only really like slightly elevated humidity to be happy. Make sure you give these orchids plenty of bright, indirect light.

The Brassavola orchid, or the Lady of the Night orchid, is another type of orchid that is easy to grow and even blooms multiple times a year. Another plus for this plant is its pleasant smell.

As long as you know how to properly care for these orchids, they will be healthy and live long.

Conclusion

Orchids can live up to 20 years old, provided they are given the best care possible. They can keep blooming yearly, but the closer they get to the end of their lives, the more sparse their flowers will be.

Make sure your orchids get lots of bright, indirect light, room temperature, a little higher-than-normal humidity, and water when the potting medium feels dry to the touch.

There are no specific orchid species that live longer than others, but if you want your orchids to live long, choose species that are easy to care for and low-maintenance, so that you do not have a hard time keeping them alive for years to come.

Image: istockphoto.com / 9924153

The spider plant is one of the most popular houseplants in the world. It gets its name from its leaves, which resemble the legs of a spider. This is a low-maintenance plant that tends to survive harsher than normal conditions, and is quite easy to propagate. If you are able to successfully simulate the plant’s natural tropical habitat, its arching, slender leaves will grow best.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of the spider plant and how to propagate it correctly.

If you are considering adding this plant to your collection and you want to learn more about it, then just keep reading!

Spider plant care

1. Water requirements

Spider plants will do just fine if you occasionally forget to water them on time, but try not to do this too often as it can have some negative effects in the long run. These plants can survive a certain level of drought because their roots are able to store water for the plant to use when the soil is completely dry.

There is no set schedule to follow when watering your spider plant, because the rate at which the plant’s soil dries out will depend on several factors. These include the local climate where you live, the season, and the current weather conditions.

Thus, if you live in a place with a cooler climate, and it is winter with lots of rainfall, you will not need to water the plant as much as someone who lives in a warm climate, during the summer, with little to no rainfall.

The easiest and most foolproof way to determine whether your spider plant needs water is by touching the top two inches of soil to see if they are dry. If the top two inches of soil are dry, water the plant, but if the soil is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Another way to tell whether your plant needs watering to lift the pot and feel its weight. Lift it when you have just watered the plant, so that you know the weight of a watered plant. Then, the next time you lift the pot and it feels noticeably lighter, you will know that all the water has dried up.

Spider plants prefer water that does not have high concentrations of fluoride, so gather rainwater or use distilled or filtered water rather than tap water. You will know your tap water is high in fluoride if the tips of the plant’s leaves are turning brown for no other reason. You can remedy fluoride toxicity in spider plants by removing the soil around the plant’s roots and replacing it with fresh soil. Thereafter, only use rainwater or filtered water on the plant.

Overwatering is another mistake to avoid; this can cause the roots to drown and die. Dead roots will start to rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens. These pathogens will cause the rot to become more aggressive and spread faster through the rest of the plant. Before you know it, the stems and leaves will be affected and the plant will have no chance of recovering.

If you suspect that your plant is overwatered, you can try to save it by removing it from the pot and washing off as much of the old soil as you can. Inspect all of the roots and cut off any brown or black ones because those are rotten. Make sure you use sterilized tools when pruning them, because you do not want the bacteria or fungi in the affected roots to find their way to the healthy roots.

After removing the rotten roots, only white, healthy roots should remain. Spray these healthy roots with fungicide and let them air-dry for a couple of hours. When they have dried, you can repot the plant in a pot with drainage holes at the bottom, using fresh, well-draining soil.

2. Light requirements

Spider plants can survive varying intensities of light, but they prefer bright, indirect light. Do not put the plant under full sun for extended periods because the leaves will burn.

Although they can tolerate shade, the plant’s leaves will be noticeably paler and less vibrant in shady conditions than plants that get the right amount of light on a daily basis. So, if you want your plant to look its absolute best, give it bright, indirect sunlight.

Place the plant near a north- or east-facing window or, if the only available window in your house lets in harsh light, you can diffuse the intensity by placing a sheer curtain over the window.

If you want to keep the plant outdoors, make sure it is under a garden net or a large tree so that it only gets dappled sunlight.

When the plant gets plenty of bright, indirect light, it will also produce a bounty of offsets that will make propagation easier.

3. Temperature requirements

When it comes to temperature, the spider plant will do fine in room temperature. As long as the temperature is kept between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant will be satisfied.

Daytime temperatures may be alright for the plant outdoors, but nighttime temperatures may dip below 55 degrees Fahrenheit so it is best for the plant if you take it indoors before nightfall.

Never leave the plant outdoors during winter, because the frost will kill it.

Indoors, keep the plant away from heating vents and air conditioning vents, because warm and cold drafts will quickly dry it out. Even cold drafts that pass through small cracks in doors or windows can dry the plant out.

4. Humidity requirements

The humidity inside most homes is generally sufficient for spider plants, so you do not really need to take any special measures to increase the humidity for the plant. But, if you do live in a place with a dry climate, you may need to increase the humidity so that it is between 25 and 50 percent.

You can help increase the humidity by misting the plant in the morning to moisten the leaves. 

You can also place the plant in the bathroom, laundry room or kitchen, because these rooms tend to be the most humid in any house. Another trick is to place the plant next to other plants that also appreciate high humidity, so that together they can create a microclimate. You can also place a pebble tray filled with water under the plant’s pot, so that when the water evaporates, it will moisten the leaves as well as the soil in the pot.

If it fits your budget, you can just buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in your home without you needing to worry about it.

4. Fertilizer requirements

Spider plants do not really need to be fertilized because their roots have tubers that not only  store water, but also nutrients and minerals. These plants are also sensitive to soil toxicity that leads to the browning of their leaf tips.

If you want to fertilize your plant, do so sparingly. Use fertilizer at half-strength and only give it to the plant during the spring and summer when it is actively growing.

If you think the plant’s soil has toxicity due to too much fertilizer, you can flush the soil with water to remove the mineral buildup.

Spider plant propagation

Propagation in water

• When propagating the spider plant in water, you are letting the roots develop in water first before transferring it to a pot. Some people prefer this because the plant already has established roots before it is planted in soil.

• To do this, prepare a clear glass container and fill it with water. Let the water sit so that it dechlorinates and becomes room-temperature. Prepare a sterilized pair of pruning shears or scissors and cut off the spiderettes from the stolon of the parent plant. Remove any leaves that are too close to the base of the cutting.

• Place the cutting in the glass container, making sure the bottom of the spiderette is completely submerged. Place the glass container in a spot where the cutting can get plenty of bright, indirect light. If the water in the jar starts to look murky, change it, and refill the water if the level starts to drop.

• After a few weeks, the roots should be long enough and you can now remove the new spider plant from the water. Prepare a new pot with a seed starting mix. Make a hole in the middle using your finger or a pencil, making sure it is deep and wide enough to accommodate all of the new roots. Place the new plant into the hole and water the soil enough that it is moist but not soggy.

• You can now care for the plant as you would a regular spider plant.

Propagation in starting mix

• When propagating the spider plant in starting mix, cut a spiderette from the parent plant using sterilized pruning shears or scissors. Cut right along the base of the stolon to carefully remove each spiderette.

• Prepare a small pot with a seed starting mix and poke a hole in the center using your finger or a pencil. Place the spiderette into the hole. Moisten the starting mix, but do not overwater it. Place the pot in a spot where the plant can get bright, indirect light.

• After four weeks, check the viability of the roots by gently pulling on the plant. If you can feel resistance, that means the roots have established well and you can proceed to care for the plant as you would a regular spider plant.

Conclusion

Spider plants are some of the most hardy, low-maintenance houseplants in the world. They make great indoor plants because they do not grow very fast, or very big. They are also quite tolerant of a little drought or shade.

They only need to be watered when the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch, and prefer bright, indirect light. They do well in room temperature with normal humidity, and do not need to be fertilized because they are sensitive to mineral buildup in the soil.

You can propagate spider plants directly in a starting mix, or you can choose to let the spiderette root in water first before planting it in the starting mix.

Image: istockphoto.com / Pratchaya

Calatheas are some of the most popular houseplants in the world, but there are aspects of their care that may be a bit challenging, especially for beginner plant owners.

These plants are native to South America and are coveted for their beautifully colored leaves that can come in white, pink, purple or green.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of Calathea plants and how to correctly propagate them. So, if you are thinking of adding one of these to your plant collection, keep reading.

Calathea care

1. Light requirements

Calatheas prefer bright, indirect light, whether from the sun or from grow lights. Place the plant in a spot near a north- or east-facing window, as these are the ones that do not let in harsh light. If the only available window lets in very intense light, you can still use it by placing a sheer curtain over the window. The curtain will help diffuse the light and make it less intense so that it does not damage the plant.

These plants also do well in low light conditions, but their growth is noticeably slower in low light than in bright light. The Calathea varieties that are lighter in color will need more light to maintain their vibrant hues.

In the winter, when sunlight is scarce, a grow light is your plant’s best friend.

2. Water requirements

You should not simply follow a set schedule when watering your Calathea. Rather, to determine whether your plant needs to be watered, touch the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the soil is dry, you can water the plant, but if it is still damp, wait one or two days and check it again.

The frequency of watering will depend heavily on the climate where you live, the season of the year, and the current weather conditions. Thus, someone who lives in a cold climate, during the winter with a lot of rainfall, will not need to water their plant as much as someone living in a warm, dry place with little to no rainfall. This is because the colder and wetter the weather, the more slowly the soil dries out. These plants also do not need much water during winter because they are not actively growing at that time.

Calatheas are a bit picky about the kind of water they like, so only use rainwater, filtered or distilled water.

3. Humidity requirements

Calatheas like a humid environment and they will appreciate the occasional misting with a sprayer. Try to mist only in the daytime so that the plant can dry out in the morning sun. Letting water stay on the leaves for long periods of time can encourage fungal growth.

You can also increase the humidity by using a pebble tray filled with water. Place the pot on top of the pebble tray and, as the water evaporates, it will moisten the leaves and the soil in the pot.

Another trick is to place humidity-loving plants close to one another so that together they create a microclimate.

If you have the means, you could purchase a humidifier to regulate the humidity levels in your home without you needing to worry about it.

4. Soil requirements

As mentioned above, these plants like their soil to be constantly moist but not damp, so the ideal is a well-draining potting mix that also has moisture retention qualities. You can make your own mix by combining one part perlite to two parts regular potting soil. This mix allows air and water to reach the roots of the plant while being porous enough to reduce the possibility of overwatering and, hence, root rot.

The pot you use for the plant should have drainage holes at the bottom so that any excess water can simply flow out, rather than stagnating around the roots.

5. Fertilizer requirements

This plant should only be fertilized during the spring and summer. This is the period when the plant is actively growing and will use up a lot of the minerals and nutrients in the soil. Avoid feeding the plant during the fall and winter, because this could lead to toxicity in the soil which will do the plant more harm than good.

Use a fertilizer made specifically for indoor plants, diluted to half-strength, and give it to the plant once a month in the spring and summer.

6. Repotting

These plants do not need to be repotted very often because they are not prone to becoming rootbound. You will know if a plant needs repotting if the roots start to grow out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, or when there seems to be more root than soil in the pot. The plant will also look sad and stunted if it is rootbound. When choosing a new pot, choose one that is a size larger than the last one. Using a pot that is too large will entail too much soil, and too much soil means too much retained water and a greater chance of overwatering and root rot.

Repot the plant during its growing period in the spring and summer. Repotting is a traumatic experience for the plant, and it will need to be actively growing in order to recover quickly.

Calathea propagation

• The most effective way of propagating a Calathea is by division of the parent plant. You are basically removing sections of the parent plant to make more plants.

• Take the parent plant from its pot and inspect it for sections that appear to have their own root system. These roots usually look like they have just sprouted, rather than mature roots. Each section should also have at least one leaf on it.

• Gently separate the roots of each section. You can normally do this with just your fingers, but if you are having a hard time untangling them, you can cut them apart using a sterilized pair of scissors or a knife. Try to cut through as little of the root system as possible.

• Prepare several smaller pots and plant each section in its own individual pot. Use a well-draining soil mix and water it.

• You can now continue caring for the new plants as you would a regular plant. Make sure you keep all of the plants’ soil moist but not damp. You will see new growth on the plants after a couple of weeks.

• Propagation is best done during the growing period, in the spring and summer.

Conclusion

Calatheas are not the easiest plants to care for because they are very sensitive to changes in watering habits. However, once you figure out what works best for them, growing them will become a breeze. You will be rewarded with interestingly-colored leaves that can be all types of green, white, pink and even purple. Give the plant bright, indirect light, regular room temperature and humidity, and only fertilize it once a month during the spring and summer.

You can propagate the plant through division, which is when you separate the plant into sections that have their own leaves and root systems. Simply plant each section in its own pot and care for them as you would a regular, mature Calathea.

Image: istockphoto.com / Akchamczuk

Rhaphidophora tetrasperma is a vining plant that is often confused for a Monstera, despite being from a different family. This is because the plant’s leaves resemble those of the Monstera deliciosa. This plant is relatively easy to care for and propagate, and is a good choice for beginner plant owners who are not quite ready to take on finicky plants just yet.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of this plant, as well as how to propagate it correctly.

If you are thinking about adding a Rhaphidophora tetrasperma to your collection and you want to learn more about these plants, keep reading.

Rhaphidophora tetrasperma care

1. Watering requirements

There is no set schedule to follow when it comes to watering your plant. The frequency will depend on the climate where you live, the season, and the current weather conditions. If you live in a place that is cold for most of the year, and it is currently winter with a lot of rainfall, then you will obviously not need to water the plant as often as someone living in a drier, sunnier place with little to no rainfall. These factors all affect the rate at which the plant’s soil dries out, so the easiest way to determine whether a plant needs watering is by touching the soil in the pot.

If the top two inches of soil feel dry, go ahead and water the plant, but if the soil in the pot is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

This plant likes its soil to be a little moist at all times, but it should never be soggy. Soggy soil means you are overwatering the plant, and an overwatered plant’s roots will suffocate and drown because they have no access to oxygen. The roots will die and begin to rot, and the rotten roots will be susceptible to opportunistic pathogens which exacerbate the spread of the rot to the rest of the plant. If the rot reaches the stems and leaves, the plant’s chances of recovery are slim to none. It is therefore best to avoid ever overwatering your plant in the first place.

If you suspect that your plant is overwatered, you can try to salvage it by removing it from its pot and washing off as much soil as you can from the roots. Be gentle, because some of the roots will be soft and mushy. Inspect all the roots and, using sterilized pruning shears, remove the parts that have turned brown or black. Only healthy, white roots should remain. Spray these remaining roots with fungicide and let the plant dry on a paper towel for several hours.

Once the plant’s roots are dry, you can replant it in a pot that has sufficient drainage holes at the bottom, using a well-draining potting mix. If you have removed all the rot successfully, the plant should make a full recovery.

2. Light requirements

Rhaphidophora tetrasperma prefers bright, indirect light such as that which enters through a north- or east-facing window. Never let the plant sit under direct sunlight for extended periods or it will get sun damaged.

If the only window available lets in light that is too intense, you can diffuse the light by placing a sheer curtain over the window.

This plant cannot tolerate low light conditions, so make sure you have grow lights ready if you live in a place where sunlight is scarce for several months of the year.

3. Humidity requirements

This plant is native to Thailand and Malaysia, so it is used to humid environments and you will need to simulate this in your home.

You can try misting the plant with a spray bottle every once in a while so that the leaves do not dry out. You can also use a pebble tray filled with water. Place the tray under the plant’s pot and, as the water evaporates, it will moisten the soil in the pot as well as the plant’s leaves. You can also place the plant next to other humidity-loving plants so that together they create a microclimate. Lastly, if you have the money to spare, you can buy a humidifier that will automatically regulate the humidity in your home and you will not need to worry about it.

4. Temperature requirements

This plant is accustomed to the warm weather of its native tropics, but it should do fine in normal room temperature. As long as you keep the temperature around the plant between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, that should be sufficient. Do not leave the plant outside during the fall or winter when temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the plant is indoors, keep it away from spots where warm or cold drafts can hit it. This means it should not be placed under heating vents or air conditioners, because the warm or cold air from them can dry the leaves out very quickly.

5. Soil requirements

The ideal soil for Rhaphidophora tetrasperma is one that is well-draining but still able to retain a certain level of moisture. Try not to let the soil dry out for long periods of time. You can make your own soil mix by mixing one part regular potting soil, one part orchid bark, and one part perlite. This mix is light, airy and porous and will allow air and water to flow freely, reducing the chances of overwatering and root rot.

Also make sure that your pot has sufficient drainage holes at the bottom, so that any excess water can simply flow out.

6. Fertilizer requirements

Rhaphidophora tetrasperma does not really need to be fertilized, especially as it is quite prone to overfeeding. The soil can become toxic and burn the roots if fertilization is done incorrectly. If you want to fertilize the plant, use a liquid fertilizer made for houseplants, and only apply it once a month in the spring and summer when the plant is actively growing.

7. Pruning

This plant requires minimal pruning. All you really need to do is remove any dead leaves by pulling them gently off the plant.

If the plant is not getting enough light, you may notice it becoming leggy. This means that the plant is actively focusing its resources and nutrients into growing a vine long enough to reach the closest source of light. This is not exactly a fatal condition for the plant, but it does detract from its overall aesthetic. You can simply clip off the leggy vine above a node. Do not include the node in the cutting, because you will need it if you want to propagate the plant in the future.

Rhaphidophora tetrasperma propagation

Propagation in soil

Cut off a section of the parent plant using a pair of sterilized scissors or pruning shears. Make sure the cutting is a few inches long and that it has several leaves and at least one node on it. The node is very important, because this is where the new roots will grow from. Cut the stem a quarter of an inch below the node at a 45-degree angle and remove any leaves near the base of the cutting.

Prepare a small pot with well-draining soil mix and poke a hole in the middle of the soil. Place the cutting into the soil and make sure the node is covered. Keep the soil moist but never soggy, and place the pot where it can get bright, indirect light. Place a plastic bag over the pot to lock in moisture and humidity around the plant, but let the plant breathe by removing the bag for a few minutes every day.

After four weeks, check the viability of the roots by gently tugging on the cutting. If you can feel resistance when you pull, that means that the roots have grown in nicely and you can now care for the plant as you would a fully-grown plant.

Propagation in water

Propagating the Rhaphidophora tetrasperma in water is quite simple. Take a cutting from the parent plant using sterilized scissors or pruning shears. Make sure the cutting has several leaves and at least one node on it. Cut the stem at a 45-degree angle a quarter of an inch below the node, and remove any leaves near the base of the cutting.

Place the cutting in a glass jar half-filled with water, making sure the node is submerged. This is important because this is where the new roots will sprout from.

Place the jar in a spot where there is bright, indirect light. Replace the water in the jar if it starts to look murky, and refill the water if the level drops below the node.

After two weeks there should be roots growing from the base of the cutting, but do not pot the cutting yet. Wait another two weeks or so, until the roots are several inches long. Then, place the cutting in a pot with a well-draining soil mix and you can proceed to care for the plant as you would a normal, mature plant.

Conclusion

The Rhaphidophora tetrasperma is a climbing, vining plant native to Thailand and Malaysia. It is often mistaken for a member of the Monstera family because of the similarity of its leaves. 

This plant is relatively low-maintenance and easy to propagate. It just needs bright, indirect light, water when the top two inches of soil are dry, room temperature, a humid environment, minimal pruning and minimal feeding.

You can propagate this plant by planting a cutting directly into the soil, or you can let the cutting root in a glass of water for several weeks before transferring it to a pot with soil.

Image: istockphoto.com / Firm

Arrowhead plants, or Syngoniums, are native to South and Central America and Mexico. They got their name because of the shape of their leaves, which range in color from light to deep green. They are vining plants that use their aerial roots to climb and vine. Some people place a pole next to their plant to give it something to grab onto and help it upwards.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of arrowhead plants and how to propagate them correctly.

If you are planning on adding these plants to your collection and wish to know more about them, just keep reading.

Arrowhead plant care

1. Water requirements

There are several factors to take into account when determining the best watering schedule for your arrowhead plant. These include the climate where you live, the season of the year, and the current weather conditions. If you live in a cold area, and it is winter, and you have constant snow and rain, you will not need to water the plant as much as during the summer, with little to no rain, in a region with a warm climate.

Typically, an arrowhead plant should be watered between once and twice a week. The best way to know if your plant needs watering is to touch the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the soil is dry to the touch, you can water the plant, but if it is still damp, wait one or two days and then check the soil again.

While these plants can tolerate a bit of drought, you should never make the mistake of overwatering them. When the plant is overwatered, the soil is consistently soggy and the roots will drown and begin to rot. This leaves them susceptible to opportunistic pathogens, which will exacerbate the spread of the rot to the rest of the plant. Before you know it, the whole plant will be dying, with no chance of recovery.

If you suspect that your plant is overwatered, remove it from the pot and wash off as much old soil as you can from the roots. Inspect the roots thoroughly and, using a clean knife, remove all of the brown and black parts of the roots, because these are rotten and infected. Spray the remaining white, healthy roots with fungicide and let the plant air-dry for a few hours on a dry paper towel on a tray. When the roots are dry, repot the plant in a new pot that has drainage holes at the bottom, using fresh, well-draining soil. 

2. Light requirements

Ideally, arrowhead plants like bright, indirect light, but they are more than capable of surviving in low light conditions. This is why these plants do well in homes and climates that do not get that much light. Do not place these plants in areas where they are constantly exposed to direct sunlight, because the leaves will get scorched. This may not be fatal to the plant, but it does ruin its overall aesthetic. Place the plant near a north- or east-facing window, and if the only available window lets in light that is too harsh, you can diffuse the intensity by placing a sheer curtain over the window.

As mentioned, these plants’ leaves come in a wide range of hues, and the darker-colored ones will do better under low light than those that are a paler color.

If you live in a place where there is little to no sunlight during the winter, it might be a good idea to invest in some grow lights to support your plant.

3. Humidity requirements

This plant is native to tropical countries, so needless to say it enjoys a more humid environment. During the spring and fall, the humidity inside your home may be enough to keep the plant happy, but the drier summers and winters may take a toll on it.

You can use a spray bottle to mist the plant’s leaves every once in a while; you can also use a water pebble tray. Place the pebble tray under the plant’s pot and, as the water evaporates, it will moisten the soil as well as the plant’s leaves.

You can also try grouping your humidity-loving plants close together, so that they create a microclimate around and between them and help each other out.

If you have the extra money, you can buy a humidifier to do the job for you and automatically regulate the humidity in your home.

4. Temperature requirements

Arrowhead plants do fine in room temperature. As long as the temperature around your plant is between 50 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, it should be completely fine. If you are keeping the plant outdoors, make sure you take it inside before the first frost.

Once you have taken the plant indoors, remember not to place it where it can be hit by cold or warm drafts. Keep it away from heating vents and air conditioners, because the cold and warm air can quickly dry the plant out.

5. Soil requirements

Arrowhead plants like soil that is well-draining, loose, airy and porous. The soil should allow air and water to permeate it with ease. A mixture of one part indoor plant potting mix, one part perlite and one part coco peat will work. If you cannot get hold of these materials, you can always just buy commercially available indoor plant potting mix.

The pot you use for the plant should also have sufficient drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to flow out in case you accidentally give the plant more water than you meant to.

Avoid using steel or plastic pots, because these materials are not porous and do not allow air and water to seep through them. Instead, choose clay or terracotta pots; these are airy and porous and will let air and water pass through much more easily.

6. Fertilizer requirements

Arrowhead plants do not require fertilizer, but they can be fed in order to help them reach their full potential. Use half-strength houseplant fertilizer once a month during the spring and summer. Do not give the plant fertilizer in the fall and winter, because this can cause soil toxicity due to the buildup of nutrients in the soil. You will end up doing the plant more harm than good in this way.

7. Repotting the plant

Because these plants are such fast growers, you may need to repot them once a year. They can become rootbound if they are kept in pots that are too tight. Signs of a rootbound plant include roots growing out of the drainage holes at the bottom, and the entire root ball becoming very easy to pull out of the pot. This means that the pot is holding more roots than soil, whereas it should be the other way around.

When you are repotting the plant, the new pot should just be one size bigger than the old one, because a pot that is too large will hold too much soil. Too much soil means too much water retention, and this can lead to overwatering and possible root rot.

8. Pruning the plant

It is completely normal for the plant’s leaves to die back one at a time, but you should be worried if all of the leaves appear to be dying at the same time. Remove the dead leaves to preserve the plant’s aesthetic.

These plants can grow quite quickly, so you may need to prune the vines to control their growth. Using sterilized scissors or pruning shears, cut the vine about half an inch above the node. This practice will discourage the growth of leggy and scraggly vines.

Arrowhead plant propagation

Propagation in soil

To propagate the plant in soil, choose a vine that has several leaves and nodes and cut it half an inch below a node using sterilized pruning shears. Cut the stem at a 45-degree angle so that the cutting absorbs water better. It is important to include the node, because this is where the new roots will grow from. Remove any leaves that are close to the base of the cutting. The bigger your parent plant is, the more cuttings you can take to ensure a higher success rate when propagating.

Prepare a small pot with potting mix and poke a hole in the middle of the soil. Place the cutting into the hole and cover the base of the plant, making sure that the node is under the soil.

Place the pot in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light. You can help lock in moisture by placing a plastic bag over the plant, but remove the bag for a few minutes every day to let the plant breathe.

After four weeks, check the viability of the roots by gently tugging on the plant. If you can feel resistance when you pull, that means the roots are well-established and you can now care for the plant as you would a mature arrowhead plant.

Propagation in water

Remove cuttings from the parent plant using sterilized pruning shears. Make sure the cutting has several leaves and nodes on it. Remove any leaves that are close to the base of the cutting and

place the cutting in a glass jar half-filled with tepid water. At least one node should be submerged in the water, but remove any submerged leaves.

Place the jar in a spot where the cutting can get plenty of bright, indirect light. If the water level drops below the node, refill the water, and if the water starts to smell or looks murky, change it as soon as possible.

After two weeks, you should be able to see small roots growing from the node. Do not plant the cutting yet; wait at least two more weeks, or until the roots are several inches long.

Plant the cutting in a pot, using well-draining potting mix, and care for it as you would a regular arrowhead plant.

Conclusion

Arrowhead plants are low-maintenance, hardy plants that are a good choice to keep indoors. The unique shape of their leaves and their various shades of green have made these plants quite popular.

Arrowhead plants like bright, indirect light, water when the top two inches of soil are dry, room temperature, a humid environment, minimal feeding, minimal pruning, and repotting when the roots become crowded in their pot.

You can propagate this plant by placing cuttings directly in soil, or you can let the cutting root in a glass of water before planting it in its own pot.

Image: istockphoto.com / malija

Parlor palms, with the scientific name Chamaedorea elegans, are highly favored indoor ornamental plants native native to the tropical and subtropical regions of  America. Although they can grow as tall as, or higher than, six feet, they can easily adapt to indoor conditions. Keep reading for a detailed discussion on parlor palm plant care and how to propagate these plants successfully. 

Parlor palm care and propagation 

Parlor palm care

Unlike some other plants, parlor palms are easy to care for and are one of the more forgiving houseplants.  

These plants thrive best in areas with bright, indirect light. If they cast a shadow where they stand, it is an indication that the light is sufficient, regardless of whether it is artificial or natural. Do not place the plants where there is direct light, as they will dry out. North-facing windows provide the ideal light for them.

Parlor palms’ water requirements will depend on how much light they receive. In lower light or in colder weather, they will need less water. Brighter light and summer months mean more frequent watering is required. The soil’s surface should dry out before you water smaller palms, while the soil should be dry to at least one inch below the surface when watering large palms. 

These plants should be watered at the base to avoid dry spots. They are native to rainforests, so they like their soil moist and humid, but not boggy. Water the soil until water seeps through the drainage holes, and get rid of excess water to prevent root rot. Go for well-draining soil to keep the roots healthy. 

Parlor palms should be fed no more than monthly with a houseplant fertilizer during spring and summer. During wintertime, hold off on the fertilizer or reduce the feeding to every two or three months. These plants grow slowly, so they will not need to be repotted often. They prefer close quarters in their pots and do not require larger pots until roots start to appear from the drainage holes.

Pruning is not recommended for these plants, and they may stop growing if they are pruned often. However, feel free to trim them during dormancy if there are any dead fronds. 

Parlor palm propagation

Parlor palms are propagated by division.

1. Make sure that your parlor palm has several healthy stems. Select a pot that is the right size to hold a single stem from the main plant. Fill the pot with a soilless mix containing equal parts peat moss and vermiculite or perlite.
2. Remove the main or mother plant from the container and loosen the soil around the root ball to expose the roots. 
3. Choose a healthy, established stem with a decent root system and cut away any roots that connect it to the main plant using a sharp blade.
4. Plant the new stem in the prepared pot, making sure the roots and stem are well-covered with the soilless mix. Return the mother plant to its original container and fill it with fresh soil. Make sure that both the mother plant and the new plant are in a shady spot and not exposed to direct sunlight as they recover. 

 Common varieties of parlor palm

• Bamboo palm – A multi-trunked palm that is a popular houseplant. It is small and slow-growing, and thrives in zones 9-11. 
• Bella parlor palm – This variety usually grows no more than four feet tall. 
• Cat palm – This variety can grow up to six feet tall and has dark green, arching fronds. It can tolerate moist soil and thrives in zones 9-11. 

Common pests and diseases of parlor palm plants 

Pests 

• Spider mites – Your parlor palms may be infested with these pests if you see little webs on the undersides of the leaves. Eradicate them with neem oil or insecticidal soap and check the plants regularly for reinfestation. 
• Scale insects – These insects produce honeydew that attracts moldy fungus. If the leaves are yellowed and withered, it may be an indication that these pests are thriving on your parlor palms. Remove them manually and use insecticidal sprays to keep them away. 

Diseases 

• Root rot – This disease develops due to overwatering. Avoid this by making sure your plants have well-draining soil so that the roots never sit in stagnant water. 
• Cankers – The usual causes of cankers include frost, fungi or bacteria. Basic care and regular monitoring can prevent this.
• Leaf spots – Freckle-like spots may appear on the leaves and merge into larger blights over time. The usual causes include fungi or bacteria. Remove the infected plant parts to increase air circulation around the foliage, and avoid watering from overhead so that the leaves remain dry. Apply fungicide as needed. 

Conclusion 

Parlor palms adapt easily to indoor conditions, making them a popular choice as indoor ornamental plants. They thrive in bright, indirect light and prefer their soil to be evenly moist. To propagate parlor palms, divide the mother plant and transfer one healthy stem to another pot, using a soilless potting mix of peat moss and vermiculite or perlite. 

Image: istockphoto.com / ELENA PETRUNEVA

The Tradescantia nanouk plant is one of the most popular houseplants in the world. This particular Tradescantia variety has white, green, purple and pink striped leaves which give the plant its striking and unique look. The colorful leaves are thick and fuzzy and grow on chunky stems. During the spring and summer, the plant produces small yellow, white and pink flowers.

This variety of Tradescantia was cooked up by scientists in a laboratory in the Netherlands barely a decade ago, which is why it is hardy, low-maintenance and makes a great choice for beginner plant owners.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care propagation of Tradescantia nanouk.

Tradescantia nanouk care

1. Light requirements

This plant likes bright, indirect light, so an east- or north-facing window would be best for it. If the only window available is south-facing, the light may be too intense. You can diffuse the intensity by placing a sheer curtain over the window. Avoid anywhere that the plant will get long hours of direct light, because this can scorch the leaves.

Depriving the plant of light will result in its leaf colors becoming paler, so avoid doing this as well. Another effect of light deprivation is etiolation. This is a process by which the plant becomes leggy, due to focusing all its resources into the one stem that can reach the closest source of light. In other words, the plant is so desperate for light that is literally reaching for it. It is not necessarily a fatal condition for the plant, but it does affect the overall aesthetic. There will be leggy growths jutting from an otherwise-compact plant, and the leaves will also tend to grow smaller than normal because the plant is focusing on growing its stems to reach the light for survival.

Remedy etiolation in your Tradescantia nanouk by making sure it gets plenty of bright, indirect light. You can also cut off the leggy growth and use the cuttings to propagate the plant.

During the winter, when natural light is scarce, consider buying some grow lights to help your plant. This will prevent it from getting leggy or pale during the cold, darker months.

2. Watering requirements

There is no set schedule to follow when it comes to watering your nanouk. The best way to determine whether your plant needs water is to touch the top two inches of soil in the pot to feel whether it is dry. If the top two inches of soil are dry, you can water the plant; if the soil is still a bit damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

This technique is very helpful to prevent overwatering. Overwatering your plant can cause the roots to drown in the soggy soil. Roots need time to dry out so that oxygen can reach them, and if they are constantly underwater, they will drown. The dead roots will start to rot and opportunistic pathogens will start to attack. The infection caused by the pathogens will make the rot even more aggressive, and soon enough the entire plant will be affected. The stems and leaves will turn yellow, soft and mushy. A plant with root rot that has reached the stem will have a very slim chance of recovery, so it is best to avoid root rot in the first place by never overwatering your plant.

Because the plant’s leaves are so sturdy and thick, water can pool inside them if you water the plant from above. Stagnant water in the leaves of the nanouk plant can also lead to rot, so try not to get the leaves wet when you water the plant. You can do this by using a watering can with a long, thin spout that you can insert through the leaves in order to water the soil directly. This way, the leaves do not get wet and you reduce the risk of rot.

You can also avoid wetting the leaves by placing water in a shallow basin and letting the plant’s pot soak in the water for an hour. Make sure to let all the excess water drip out of the drainage holes before placing the pot back in its original spot.

If you accidentally get the leaves wet, dry them with a paper towel.

In the winter, you will not need to water the plant as much as in the spring and summer. Low temperatures and less sunlight means the soil dries out more slowly, so it is probably enough to water about half as often.

3. Soil requirements

One of the most important factors in preventing overwatering is a well-draining soil mix. If the soil is well-draining, airy and porous, air and excess water will flow freely through the soil and the roots will not have to stand in waterlogged soil for long periods of time. There are plenty of indoor houseplant soil mixes available commercially, but you can also just add coarse sand, orchid bark or perlite into regular potting soil to increase its drainage capacity.

Make sure the soil is not compact and dense, because that kind of soil retains moisture too well and can cause root rot.

4. Temperature requirements

The temperature inside your home will do just fine for your nanouk plant. As long as the temperature is between 50 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant will be alright.

If you are keeping the plant outdoors, you may need to bring it inside when fall arrives and the night-time temperatures could drop below 50 degrees.

While inside the house for the fall and winter, make sure you place the plant in a spot where there are no cold or warm drafts. Keep the plant away from heating vents and air conditioners, because the warm and cold air will dry out the leaves of the plant very quickly.

Try to keep the temperature around your plant as consistent as possible to keep it happy.

5. Humidity requirements

This plant prefers higher-than-normal humidity. The easiest way to increase the humidity around the plant is to keep it in the most humid room in the house. This is often the bathroom, laundry room, or in the kitchen near the sink. 

You can also use a pebble tray filled with water to help the plant out. Place the pot on top of the water tray and, as the water evaporates, it will moisten the soil in the pot.

If you want a really hassle-free way to regulate the humidity in your home, you can purchase a humidifier to do the job for you.

6. Fertilizer requirements

Tradescantia nanouk’s growing period is during the spring and summer, so this is when you should feed the plant.

Use half-strength indoor houseplant fertilizer, or make one at home using compost tea that has been in a bucket of water for several days.

Since this plant already grows pretty well without feeding, only fertilize it once a month during spring and summer. Avoid feeding it in fall and winter because that may lead to toxicity in the soil due to the buildup of too many nutrients.

Also refrain from fertilizing the plant if you have just repotted it.

7. Repotting the plant

Because this plant grows quickly, you may need to repot it as often as once per growing period. If the roots have crowded the pot, replace the old one with a pot one size bigger. Do not use a pot that is too large, because that means it holds more soil and more soil means more water is retained. This can lead to the plant becoming overwatered, and to possible root rot.

Try to avoid repotting the plant during the fall and winter. Repotting is a stressful experience for the plant and it needs as much energy as possible to recover quickly from the trauma.

To know when you need to repot your plant, look out for roots growing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. If you remove the plant from the pot, the roots will have encircled the soil. If the entire root ball is easily pulled out of the pot, that means there is more root than soil in the pot and you need to repot the plant.

8. Pruning the plant

Regularly pruning your Tradescantia nanouk helps the plant become bushier and denser, which is what most plant owners like. Simply cut back the branches a few inches using sterilized pruning shears. This plant grows vigorously, so do not worry if you feel you may have clipped the branch a little too short.

Tradescantia nanouk propagation

Propagation in soil

Choose a stem that has several leaves and nodes on it. Using sharp, sterilized scissors, cut the stem at a 45-degree angle and remove the leaves closest to the base of the cutting.

Prepare a small pot with well-draining indoor soil mix, and poke a hole in the middle of the soil. Place the base of the cutting inside the hole, making sure the lowest node is covered by the soil. This is important because the node is where the roots of the new plant will grow from. Make sure the soil is moist but not soggy.

Place the pot in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light. You can help lock in moisture by placing a plastic bag over the plant. Just remember to remove the plastic bag every day for a few minutes to allow the plant to breathe.

After a couple of weeks, check the viability of the roots by giving the plant a gentle tug. If you feel resistance when you pull, that means the roots have grown in nicely and you can proceed to care for the new nanouk as you would a mature plant.

Propagation in water

Choose a stem that has several leaves and at least one node. Using clean, sterilized scissors, cut the stem below the node. Remove any leaves that are close to the base of the cutting.

Place the cutting into a glass container half-filled with clean, tepid water. Make sure at least one node is submerged under the water because this is where the roots will grow from. Place the jar where it can get bright, indirect light.

After one or two weeks, there should be tiny roots emerging from the node. If the water starts to smell or if it starts to look murky, replace it as soon as possible. Top up the water if the level drops below the node.

After another two to three weeks, the roots should be several inches long and you can now transfer the cutting to its own pot, using a well-draining potting mix.

After potting the plant, you can treat it like you would a regular, fully-grown plant.

Conclusion

Tradescantia nanouk is a beautiful plant with colorful leaves, and is low-maintenance and hardy. This plant is compact enough to use as a centerpiece on your dining table. It is a great choice as a gift for loved ones because of how easy it is to grow and care for. In order to preserve the color of its leaves, make sure the plant gets a lot of bright, indirect light.

This plant only needs to be watered when the top two inches of soil are dry to the touch. It likes well-draining soil, a humid environment, and temperatures between 50 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

It does not need to be fertilized, but if you wish to feed it, only use fertilizer at half-strength once a month during the spring and summer.

You can propagate this plant either by placing the cutting directly into a pot of soil, or by letting the cutting root in a glass container of water for several weeks before transferring it to its own pot with soil.

You can root multiple cuttings in one pot and give that as a gift to a special person in your life. Anybody would be lucky to receive a Tradescantia nanouk as a gift.

Image: istockphoto.com / Patcharamai Vutipapornkul

The Oxalis triangularis is also called the purple shamrock or the false shamrock, because of the shape and color of its leaves. This plant can be grown as either an indoor or outdoor plant. One of the reasons for its popularity is that it is photophilic, meaning that its leaves and flowers close at night and open up again in the morning, prompted by the light.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of Oxalis triangularis and how to correctly propagate it. So, if you are thinking about adding this plant to your collection, just keep reading.

Oxalis triangularis dormancy

Before we dive into the proper care of Oxalis triangularis, it is important to first discuss its dormancy period. Being aware of this crucial part of the plant’s life will give us a better understanding of why such proper care is important.

When the Oxalis triangularis is dormant, it is not actively growing and is also at its most vulnerable.

The plant’s dormancy starts immediately after its growing season, and you will know it is starting because the leaves will begin to droop and will no longer open up, even during the day. You may even think the plant is dying. Just allow the foliage to die back and remove any dead leaves.

It is completely fine, and even advisable, to transfer the plant to a dimmer, darker spot for a couple of weeks. Refrain from fertilizing or watering the plant while it is dormant.

Eventually, you will see new growth and you can then resume the usual Oxalis triangularis care routine. Try not to water it as much in the beginning, though, and rather increase the amount of water gradually as the plant gets bigger.

The rest of our discussion on Oxalis triangularis care will focus on how to care for the plant in its growing period.

Oxalis triangularis care

1. Water requirements

The best rule to follow when it comes to watering your Oxalis triangularis is to touch the top inch of soil before you water it. If the soil is dry to the touch, water the plant, but if the soil is still a bit damp, wait a few days and check it again. 

As mentioned above, refrain from watering the plant when it is dormant because this might lead to overwatering and even root rot. Root rot is when the roots of the plant drown and die in waterlogged soil. The dead roots will start to rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens. Once the roots are infected, the rot will become more aggressive and spread upward to the rest of the plant. This can ultimately lead to the plant’s death.

Underwatering should also be avoided, because if the plant is left to dry out for too long, it can go dormant before it should, which is something you would rather avoid.

2. Light requirements

Give your Oxalis triangularis medium to bright, indirect light. The source of light can be the sun or it can be artificial, especially in cases when sunlight is scarce, such as during the winter.

Do not leave the plant in a spot where it gets bright, direct, unfiltered light, as this can lead to sun damage and leaf scorch. If the sunlight entering your window is too harsh and bright, diffuse the light by placing a sheer curtain over the window.

When you are using grow lights, start by keeping the plant far from the lights and gradually move the lights closer until you find the ideal distance.

3. Temperature and humidity requirements

The humidity inside most households is typically fine for Oxalis triangularis. This plant is not too finicky about humidity, so as long as the humidity levels are not in the extremes, it should be alright.

The same goes for regular room temperature. As long as the temperature range in the room is between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, the plant should be fine. But, as we mentioned above, drying out the plant can cause it to go dormant and increased temperatures can dry it out faster. Keep the temperature from ever reaching above 80 degrees Fahrenheit to avoid stressing the plant into premature dormancy.

4. Soil requirements

Typically, normal indoor plant potting soil will do fine for the Oxalis triangularis, but you can make the soil mix even more porous and airy by adding in perlite to it. The soil mix should be able to hold enough moisture not to dry out too quickly, but it should also be able to drain well enough to get rid of any excess water. Adding coco peat will help with moisture retention.

If the soil is dense and compact, you may need to replace it with a looser soil mix to keep the plant happy.

5. Fertilizer requirements

Do not feed the plant when it is dormant; only do so when it is actively growing. Give the plant half-strength, liquid houseplant fertilizer twice a month to help it grow healthily. Do not overfeed the plant, because this can lead to toxicity in the soil and will end up doing more harm than good.

Oxalis triangularis propagation

Propagation by division

You can divide a full plant into as many as four or more sections, with each section getting its own bulb.

Take the plant from its pot very gently and remove a section. Make sure you have taken out the whole root before doing this, so that you inflict as little damage as possible. If you are lucky, the roots will not be tangled when you remove them from the soil, but if they are, you can use sterilized scissors to cut the tangled ones. Just try to keep as many intact roots as possible when separating the sections.

Plant these different sections in their own individual pots, using well-draining soil mix. Water the soil well, but not too much. Place the new plants in a spot where they can get bright, indirect light as they grow. Do not be worried if the plants look limp after repotting; this is just transplant shock and the plant will recover as it adapts to its new situation.

Propagation by bulbs

You can also propagate your plant by placing each bulb into its own pot. This method is done while the plant is dormant and has died back.

Once you have taken the bulbs from the old potting soil, plant each bulb one or two inches below the soil in its own pot using moistened, well-draining soil mix. If you are planting multiple bulbs in one pot, make sure you space them out well enough that each has sufficient space to grow.

Place the pot where the plants can get bright, indirect light as they grow.

Ideally, this is done at the tail-end of dormancy. After a few weeks, you will notice new growth appearing where you planted the bulbs.

Conclusion

Oxalis triangularis are quirky, photophilic little plants with beautifully purple leaves. They may look delicate and fragile, but if you know how to handle them properly, you will have no problem caring for them and propagating them.

These plants appreciate medium to bright, indirect light, only need water when the top inch of their soil is dry, only need fertilizing twice a month when actively growing, and do well in normal room temperature and normal humidity.

This plant can be propagated either by dividing it into sections, or by replanting the bulbs individually when the plant is dormant.

Image: istockphoto.com / Nahhan

Dracaena marginata, also called the dragon tree, is a low-maintenance plant that is a great choice for beginner plant owners. This plant is native to the island of Madagascar, but has since become one of the most popular houseplants in the world.

The cane, or the trunk of the plant, supports long, thin leaves with red edges. These plants can grow up to 25 feet or higher, but it is possible to keep their size more manageable if you are growing them indoors.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of the Dracaena marginata, and how to propagate it correctly.

If you are considering adding this plant to your collection and want to learn more about how to grow it, just keep reading.

Dracaena marginata care

1. Water requirements

One of the most common mistakes Dracaena marginata owners make when growing this plant is to overwater it. 

Overwatering can cause the roots to suffocating in waterlogged soil and drown. The dead roots will begin to rot – a condition known as root rot. These rotten roots will be susceptible to opportunistic pathogens that make the rot even more aggressive, causing it to spread to the rest of the plant even faster. Before you know it, the entire plant’s health will be compromised and the plant may even die.

The easiest way to avoid this mistake is to check the moisture in the top two inches of soil in the pot before watering. If the top two inches of soil are dry, then go ahead and water the plant. If the soil is still a bit damp, however, wait one or two days before checking it again.

Although overwatering is far more serious, avoid underwatering nonetheless because the plant will start to droop and the leaves will turn brown. This may not kill your plant as quickly as overwatering, but it does compromise its health and spoil its aesthetic.

Adjust the frequency of watering depending on the climate where you live, the season, and the current weather. If you are watering the plant every 10 days during the summer, you might just have to water it every 14 days in winter because the soil will not dry out as quickly.

2. Light requirements

Dracaena marginata plants prefer bright, indirect light, but they are able to tolerate low light. Keep in mind that ‘toleration’ does not mean it is okay to keep them in dimly lit places for long periods, as this can lead to slow, or even stunted, growth.

Do not place the plant in a spot where it will be consistently under direct light either, because the leaves will get scorched and sun damaged. If you place the plant near a window, make sure the light that comes through is not too intense. However, if that is the only window available, you can diffuse the light’s intensity by placing a sheer curtain over the window.

During the winter, when sunlight is scarce, help your plant by purchasing grow lights. These lights will provide the plant with its light requirements until spring comes back around.

3. Humidity requirements

These plants are native to the humid rainforests of Madagascar, so it goes without saying that they will appreciate the same level of humidity in your home.

You can keep your plant’s leaves from drying out by misting it with water once in a while.

You can also fill a pebble tray with water and place the pot on top of it. As the water in the pebble tray evaporates, it will moisten the soil and the plant’s leaves.

If you have the means, you could purchase a humidifier to maintain humidity in your home without you needing to worry about it daily.

4. Temperature requirements

Room temperature typically works just fine for the Dracaena marginata. As long as the temperature around the plant does not get to either extreme, it should be completely fine. Come wintertime, the outdoor temperature may drop below freezing; make sure you take your plant indoors before the first frost arrives.

Be sure not to place the plant in a spot where drafts could hit it. Keep it away from heating vents and air conditioning vents, because the warm and cold air can dry the plant out very quickly.

5. Soil requirements

The Dracaena marginata likes to grow in a well-draining, airy and porous potting mix. You can make regular potting soil more well-draining by mixing it with peat moss or perlite.

Using loose soil is important to prevent overwatering. Dense, compact soil holds onto moisture too well and can end up causing root rot.

Also check the pot you are using. Make sure there are sufficient drainage holes at the bottom to allow the excess water to flow out. Avoid using a plastic or steel pot, because those materials will not let moisture seep through them and might keep the soil damp for too long. Instead, opt for clay or terracotta pots: these materials are porous and allow air and water to seep through them more easily.

6. Fertilizer requirements

This plant does not really need to be fertilized, but if you want to use fertilizer, do so once or twice during the plant’s growing period in the spring and summer. Use water-soluble plant fertilizer at half-strength only. Avoid feeding the plant in the fall and winter, as this may lead to toxicity in the soil and do more harm than good.

7. Repotting

If the plant’s roots become too crowded in the pot, the plant may become pot bound and difficult to repot. It is therefore best to check the condition of the roots regularly to see if it is time to change pots. Typically, Dracaena marginata plants are repotted every two to three years.

When repotting the plant, choose a pot that is one size up from the last pot used. You do not want a pot that is too big, because a large pot means more soil, and more soil means more water can be retained, which can lead to overwatering. The pot also has to have drainage holes at the bottom that are big enough and will not get clogged with roots and soil too easily.

Water the plant a day before you plan to repot it, and water it again right after you have transferred it to a new pot.

8. Pruning

This plant does not require much pruning, save for the removal of the lowest leaves that are turning brown and about to fall off anyway. Be gentle when pulling the leaves off the plant and do not force it if there is still any resistance when you pull.

If you do not plan to let the plant get taller, you will need to cut off the top of the trunk.

This practice will also coincide with the propagation of this plant, which we will discuss next.

Dracaena marginata propagation

While the propagation of most houseplants simply entails cutting off a small vine or stem, the Dracaena marginata requires a rather more drastic approach.

It might seem scary and daunting, but you will need to cut the cane, or the trunk, of the plant to the height you wish the plant to maintain. Make sure you use a sterilized pair of pruning shears to do this.

The parent plant will develop new growth from where it was cut, as though nothing has happened.

Take the cutting you removed and place it in a pot with well-draining indoor soil mix. You can also let the cutting root in a glass jar with water for several weeks before transferring it to a pot with soil. Replace the water in the jar if it starts to smell or look murky.

Regardless of whether you choose to plant the cutting in soil or let it root in water first, place it in a spot where it can get plenty of bright,indirect light so that it roots well.

After a few weeks, check the cutting in the soil by tugging on it gently. If there is resistance as you pull, that means the roots have established nicely and you can now take care of the plant as you would any regular plant.

Conclusion

Dracaena marginata, or dragon tree, is a plant native to the rainforests of Madagascar. These are low-maintenance plants that are easy to propagate, which makes them a great choice of indoor plant for beginner plant owners.

These plants like bright, indirect light and water only when the top of the soil is dry. Their humidity should be a little higher than normal, room temperature is fine for them, and they like once-a-year feeding and minimal pruning.

You can propagate this plant by cutting off the top of the cane and planting it in soil.

You can also let the cutting root in water for several weeks before transferring it to a pot with soil.

The parent plant will simply grow new foliage from where the cutting was taken; this is also how the plant’s desired height is maintained.

Image: istockphoto.com / Михаил Руденко