Audrey Woods

Staghorn ferns used to be quite difficult to get hold of, which made them rare plants in the United States. But, over the years, species like the Platycerium bifurcatum from Australia have made their way to North America and increased the options of easier-to-care-for staghorn ferns.

These plants are epiphytic, meaning they like to grow attached to the surface of another plant or tree, which is why they are often mounted on a wall when kept as indoor plants.

They get their name from the shape of their leaves which resemble the horns of a male deer, or stag.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of these unique plants, how to mount them correctly, and how to propagate them.

If you are thinking about adding this plant to your collection and want to learn more about it, just keep reading.

Staghorn fern anatomy

Before we dive into the care of the staghorn fern, let us briefly discuss the anatomy of this plant. This is important to note, because it will help you understand why taking on the responsibility for this plant can be a bit daunting, even for experienced plant owners.

The staghorn fern’s structure is so unusual that it is unlike most other fern species, which are already quite one-of-a-kind themselves.

Like other ferns, staghorns also reproduce through spores. 

Their leaves are called fronds, and they have two kinds of fronds. The first type of frond is the shield frond, which surrounds the base of the plant in the shape of a shield. These shield fronds protect the plant’s roots, while also aiding in the absorption of nutrients and water from the environment. They are green at first, but will eventually dry up and turn brown over time. Thus, if you see the shield fronds turning brown, do not worry as this is completely normal. Also, do not make the mistake of removing these dry shield fronds.

The second type of frond is the antler frond. These are the fronds that resemble antlers because of their bifurcated leaves. They grow from the middle of the plant and the spores can be found at the bottom of the fronds.

The root ball of the staghorn fern is at the very bottom, and this is the part of the plant that attaches to the tree in its natural habitat.

Staghorn fern care

1. Water requirements

Properly watering your staghorn fern will entail both soaking and misting the plant.

When soaking your staghorn fern, place it in a basin or sink of water for 10 to 20 minutes. You will know the plant is done soaking when the roots have been fully saturated. You can also just hold the plant over a bathtub and let water flow through the root ball until it is saturated.

Once the root ball is saturated, let the plant drip dry before hanging it on its mount again.

When misting the fern, use a spray bottle with a fine mist and mist the entire plant, making sure even the bottoms of both antler and shield fronds are misted.

Knowing how often to water your staghorn fern is very important, because both overwatering and underwatering can have significant negative effects on the plant.

There is no set schedule to follow when watering your staghorn fern, because different regions have different seasons, climates and weather conditions, and all of these factors play a role in how long it takes for the plant’s roots to dry out.

However, there are some pointers to keep in mind when learning how to properly water your plant. You can first try watering it once a week during hot months, and once every two weeks during the cooler months. This is just a starting schedule that you will need to adjust depending on the living conditions in your home.

These plants like humidity because they absorb water from the air through their fronds and roots. The more humid your living space, the less you will need to water the plant. If you keep the plant in a room that is humid, like the laundry room or the bathroom, reduce the frequency of soaking and misting.

In the hot summer months you will need to water more often, while the dryness of the winter months may require more frequent misting.

Also be aware of the symptoms of overwatering. A brown or black root ball signifies overwatering, and you should scale back your watering immediately until you see the roots recovering.

If the antler fronds’ tips are turning brown, you may be underwatering the plant, so correct your watering techniques accordingly.

2. Light requirements

Staghorn ferns like bright, diffused or indirect light. If the light reaching your indoor staghorn fern is too intense, hang a sheer curtain over the window to help diffuse the intensity of the light. Try to refrain from mounting the plant anywhere where light can hit it directly, because it can get sunburnt.

During the winter, when light is scarce and weak, use a grow lamp to support your plant.

3. Temperature requirements

Although these plants grow best in more tropical climates, they can tolerate cold temperatures surprisingly well. Just make sure you do not expose the plant to cold temperatures for long periods. Try to keep the temperature around the plant between 50 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit. It is completely fine to keep the staghorn fern outdoors, as long as the temperature is within this range and as long as the plant is not in direct sunlight and is watered properly.

Take the plant indoors when outside temperatures start to drop lower than 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

4. Humidity requirements

Staghorn ferns like high humidity because their natural habitat is the tropics. This is why they do well in places like the bathroom, and why they like regular misting. If you do not have the time to keep up with the plant’s humidity requirements, you can always buy a humidifier to regulate the humidity around the plant.

5. Staghorn fern mounting

You can plant your staghorn fern in soil, but they are most often mounted on a piece of driftwood or preserved wood. These woods will not rot, and this characteristic is important when choosing the material. You will also need a clear fishing line and some sphagnum moss.

First, take the sphagnum moss and moisten it a bit with some water. Use enough moss to make a good base for the plant, and place the moss on the wood.

Prepare the fern by removing as much soil from it as you can. Position the fern so that the root ball is on top of the moss; you can flatten the root ball if you need to. Add sphagnum moss as needed to make sure the root ball is properly cradled.

Make sure you are only covering the root ball, and not the shield fronds.

Using the fishing line, secure the entire fern and the moss to the wood. Make sure you use enough fishing line to keep all of it tightly secured.

Now all you have to do is to find the perfect spot to hang your mounted fern.

Staghorn fern propagation

Propagating ferns is definitely possible, but it can be a bit challenging, especially for beginners. It can also take quite some time to achieve success.

You will need to collect spores from the plant’s antler fronds. It is best to do this during the plant’s growing season, in the spring and summer.

Check the bottom of fertile antler fronds for spores that have darkened. You can either scrape the spores off the frond and collect them in a container, or you can cut off the frond, place it in a paper bag and wait for it to dry out. A dried frond’s spores will drop off into the bag for easier collection.

In a pot, place moistened sphagnum moss and gently scatter the tiny spores over it.

Do not water the moss from above. Place a water dish under the pot and allow the evaporating water to moisten the moss gradually. If the top of the moss feels damp, you have moistened it sufficiently. Remove the water dish at this point, because you do not want the moss to become soggy.

Place the pot in an area where the spores can get bright, indirect light. Lock the moisture in around the moss and the spores by placing a plastic bag over the pot. Remove the plastic bag every couple of weeks to let the spores breathe. Mist the spores with a fine mist sprayer every couple of days as well.

The spores should take three to six months to germinate, and it can take as long as a year for the actual plant to develop.

Conclusion

Staghorn ferns are beautiful, one-of-a-kind plants that are a bit intimidating to grow and care for, but provided you are determined and do your research, you will be rewarded with one of the most striking houseplants in your home.

Staghorn ferns like bright, indirect light, high humidity and temperatures between 50 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit. They like both misting and soaking as primary watering techniques.

Mount this plant by covering the root ball with sphagnum moss and tying it to a piece of preserved wood or driftwood. You can then hang this mounted fern wherever you see fit and conditions are appropriate.

Propagate the staghorn fern by collecting spores from the back of the antler fronds and placing them on moist sphagnum moss. Maintain the ideal temperature, moisture, light and humidity, and wait three to six months for the spores to germinate. In about a year, you will have new staghorn ferns to grow.

Image: istockphoto.com / Appfind

The Pilea depressa is a low-growing, creeping or climbing plant that has a distinct look because of the hundreds of little leaves on its stem. It can be grown both indoors or outdoors, and because of its high humidity requirements and small leaves, it is a great choice to use as part of a terrarium setup.

This plant’s natural habitats are the countries of Mexico and Brazil, and its optimal living conditions would be a simulation of the conditions in those places.

In this article, we will discuss proper cultural care of the Pilea depressa, and how to correctly propagate it. So, if you are considering adding this plant to your collection, then keep reading.

Pilea depressa care

1. Watering requirements

This plant likes its soil to be moist, but not waterlogged. Try not to let the soil dry out completely between waterings, as this will not be good for the plant. If you can water when the soil has almost dried out but is still just slightly damp, that is ideal. You can check this by feeling the top two inches of soil to make sure. The time between watering can be a few days or it can take as much as a week, depending on the local climate and the current weather conditions.

Although this plant appreciates soil that is consistently moist, refrain from ever overwatering it. If you overwater your plant, the roots will drown and die. Dead roots will begin to rot, and this will make them susceptible to opportunistic pathogens. The infection by either bacteria or fungi will cause the rot to move up to the crown root, stem and leaves much faster, and can even lead to the plant’s death.

Adjust the plant’s water intake according to the season. If you water it every four days during the spring and summer, you may just need to water once a week during the fall and winter, because the soil will not dry out as quickly in the cooler weather.

2. Light requirements

This plant can be grown outdoors, but try not to plant it in an area where it will be constantly bombarded with direct light. They prefer bright, indirect light, such as near windows or on the patio. If the only window in your house lets in too much light, the plant may get scorched. Diffuse the light by placing a sheer curtain over the window.

During the winter, when sunlight is limited, you may need to purchase a grow lamp to support the plant’s lighting needs.

3. Humidity requirements

Because this plant is native to areas with high humidity, you will need to provide similar conditions for your plant at home. You can mist the plant’s leaves every once in a while so they do not become dehydrated in the dry air. You can also place a pebble tray filled with water under the plant’s pot so that, as the water evaporates from the tray, it moistens the soil and the leaves of the plant.

If you do not want to worry about keeping up with these humidifying techniques, you can always just buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity levels inside your home.

4. Soil requirements

You can just use indoor plant potting mix with added perlite, but if you have peat moss, mix two parts of that with one part perlite.

These components will help make the potting mix airy and porous to ensure that the soil is well-draining and to allow good air circulation.

The soil should never be dense or compact, because this can also contribute to overwatering and root rot.

5. Fertilizer requirements

Only fertilize the plant with a liquid fertilizer during the growing seasons, which are in spring and summer. Fertilize no more than once a month; too much fertilizer may cause toxicity.

6. Repotting

The Pilea depressa does not like its roots to be crowded in the pot, so make sure to keep an eye on the condition of the roots in case they need repotting.

Take the plant out of the pot slowly and inspect the roots to see if any are rootbound. A rootbound plant’s growth will be stunted, and there will be noticeable roots growing out of the drainage holes from the bottom of the pot.

Place the plant in a new pot that is one size bigger than the previous one. Make sure there are sufficient drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Refrain from repotting during the fall or winter; only do so during the growing season in the spring and summer. This is because the plant can recover faster when it is actively growing.

Pilea depressa propagation

1. Propagation in soil

Choose a cutting that has several leaves and at least one node on it. The cutting must be several inches long. Cut it below the node using a pair of sterilized scissors. It is important to include the node because this is where the roots of the new plant will grow from. Remove any leaves that are close to the base of the cutting, because you do not want any leaves buried in the soil.

Prepare a small pot with well-draining soil mix and poke a hole in the middle of the soil. Place the cutting into the soil and make sure the node is covered with soil. Moisten the soil a little bit with water.

Place the pot in a spot where the cutting can get plenty of bright, indirect light for optimal growth. Try to keep the soil moist most of the time, but never soggy.

Increase the humidity around the plant by placing a plastic bag over it, but remove the bag every couple of days to let the plant breathe.

After four weeks, check the viability of the plant’s roots by giving the cutting a gentle tug. If there is resistance, the roots have grown in well and you can now care for the plant as you would a mature plant.

2. Propagation in water

Take a cutting a few inches long from the parent plant, using a sterilized pair of scissors.

Make sure the cutting has a few nodes and leaves on it, but remove any leaves that are near the base of the cutting.

Prepare a clear glass or plastic container with water and place the cutting in it, submerging the node in the water. This is key, because the node is where the roots will grow from.

Place the container in a spot where it can get lots of bright, indirect light. Refill the water if it starts to get low, and change it if it starts to look murky or grimy.

After three to four weeks, the roots will be several inches long. You can now transfer the cutting to a small pot with soil and care for it as you would a regular plant.

Conclusion

The Pilea depressa is a low-maintenance, vining plant that can be grown indoors, outdoors or even in terrariums. It has unique-looking, small, scallop-shaped leaves.

This plant likes bright, indirect light, well-draining soil that is light and airy, high humidity, once-monthly feeding during its growing phase, and repotting when the roots become crowded.

You can propagate the plant by planting a cutting directly in soil, or you can let the cutting take root in a jar of water for a few weeks before transferring it to a small pot with soil. When the cuttings have been transferred to their pots, you can care for them like regular plants. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Nahhan

The Hoya Carnosa Compacta is also called the Hindu Rope plant. It is a unique-looking plant with waxy, curled leaves that are closely packed together, giving the plant its distinct, rope-like appearance.

This semi-succulent vining plant is native to East Asia and Australia. It is relatively low-maintenance, making it a good choice for an indoor hanging plant.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of the Hoya carnosa compacta, as well as how to correctly propagate it.

So, if you are thinking about adding this plant to your collection, then keep reading.

Hoya carnosa compacta: Plant care

1. Watering requirements

One of the biggest mistakes made by Hoya carnosa compacta owners is improper watering. As we mentioned above, this plant is semi-succulent and can store more water in its leaves and stem than most plants, meaning it can go longer without watering than other plants.

Only water this plant when the soil in its pot feels dry to the touch. Do not water it when the soil is still damp, as you will risk overwatering it.

If the plant is overwatered, its roots will sit constantly in waterlogged soil and this will cause them to drown. They will die and start to rot, and the rotten roots will become more susceptible to opportunistic pathogens. These pathogens will cause the root rot to be more aggressive as it makes its way up the crown root, stem and leaves, and before you know it, the entire plant will be dying.

There is no set schedule to follow when watering your plant; the frequency will depend on the season and the weather. If you are watering the plant every 10 days in the spring and summer, you may just need to water it every 14 days during the fall and winter. Cooler weather means the soil dries out more slowly, so you will not need to water as often.

2. Light requirements

This plant prefers bright, indirect light, and too much direct light can cause sun damage on the leaves. Do not keep it in a dimly-lit area, because although it is tolerant of low light conditions, it will not bloom properly if it receives less than optimal light.

Place the plant in a spot near a west- or north-facing window. If the only window available is a south-facing one, the light that enters may be too harsh, so try to diffuse the intensity with a sheer curtain.

During the winter, use grow lamps to support your plant. The gloomy weather, when sunlight is scarce, can affect the plant’s growth, and providing it with artificial light will help it survive the season in good health.

3. Humidity requirements

The Hoya carnosa compacta likes a higher humidity than most plants, since these are the conditions in its natural habitats.

Help your plant out by misting the leaves every couple of days so they do not dry out. Place the plant next to other humidity-loving plants so that together they can create a microclimate around themselves. You can also increase the humidity by placing a pebble tray filled with water beneath the plant’s pot. As the water in the tray evaporates, the soil in the pot and the plant’s leaves will get moistened.

If you have a hard time keeping up with the plant’s humidity requirements, you can always purchase a humidifier to increase the humidity in your home.

4. Soil requirements

Aside from being semi-succulent, this plant is also epiphytic, meaning its roots need to be exposed to air to a certain extent. The plant’s soil should therefore not be dense or compact; it should be light, porous and airy. A well-draining mix allows both air and water to flow around the roots, keeping them from becoming overwatered and providing them with ample oxygen.

Increase the soil’s drainage capacity by adding sphagnum moss, perlite or orchid bark to your indoor plant potting mix.

No matter how well-draining the soil mix is, it could all be for naught if the pot you use does not have drainage holes. These holes will allow any excess water to flow out from the bottom of the pot, preventing overwatering. Refrain from using steel or plastic pots; rather choose clay or terracotta ones because they are more porous and water seeps through these materials easily.

5. Fertilizer requirements

This plant does not need to be fertilized often, if at all. But if you want to help it out, only give it water-soluble fertilizer at half-strength once a month during its growing phase. Do not fertilize the plant during the fall and winter, because this can lead to possible toxicity.

Hoya carnosa compacta: Propagation

1. Propagation in soil

Choose a vine on the parent plant that has at least one node on it. Using a pair of sterilized scissors, cut just below the node at a 45-degree angle. Remove any leaves near the base of the cutting.

Prepare a small pot with well-draining soil mix and place the cutting in a hole in the middle of the soil. Make sure the node is buried under the soil, because this is where the roots will sprout from.

Place the pot in an area where it can get bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist, but not damp, at all times. You can keep the humidity high by placing a plastic bag over the plant, but make sure you remove the plastic bag every couple of days to allow the plant to breathe.

After four weeks, check the viability of the roots by pulling on the plant. If you can feel some resistance, then the roots have established nicely and you can now care for the plant the way you would a normal, mature plant.

2. Propagation in water

Choose a vine with several leaves and at least one node. Cut it below the node at a 45-degree angle, using a pair of sterilized scissors. Remove any leaves that are close to the base of the cutting.

Place the cutting in a clear container with water, making sure the node is submerged. Place the container in a spot where the cutting will be able to get plenty of bright, indirect light. Change the water if it starts to look murky, and refill it if the water level drops below the node.

After three to four weeks, there should be roots growing from the cutting, but wait a few more weeks to make sure they are long enough before transferring the plant to a pot with soil in it.

After you have potted it, you can care for it as you would a fully-grown plant.

Conclusion

The Hoya carnosa compacta is an epiphytic, semi-succulent, vining plant that is easy to care for and propagate. It needs bright, indirect light, higher-than-normal humidity, well-draining soil that is airy and porous, a clay or terracotta pot with sufficient drainage holes, and fertilizer monthly during its growing phase. Do not water it unless the top two inches of soil are dry.

You can propagate this plant by planting a cutting in a small pot with soil mix, or you can allow the roots to sprout for a few weeks in a clear container filled with water before transferring it to a small pot with soil mix. Once these plants have established their roots, you can care for them as you would a regular plant.

Image: istockphoto.com / Akchamczuk

The Philodendron Micans is also called the Velvet Leaf Philodendron because of the texture of its heart-shaped leaves.

They make great houseplants because they are relatively easy to care for and do not grow to an unmanageable indoor size.

These plants are quite affordable, and they can also clean toxins from the air in your home.

They can be grown in a pot and allowed to trail, or they can be placed in a basket hanging from the ceiling, with their vines draped over the rim of the basket.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of the Philodendron Micans plant, and how to propagate it. So, if you are planning to add this plant to your collection, keep reading.

Philodendron Micans care

Watering requirements

This plant only really needs to be watered when the top two inches of soil in its pot are dry to the touch. If the top two inches are still damp, wait one or two days before checking the soil again. Allowing the soil to dry between waterings is very important in order to avoid overwatering the plant. Letting the plant’s roots sit in waterlogged soil for extended periods can cause them to drown and die. The dead roots will then rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens which help the rot spread even faster to the rest of the plant until the entire plant dies.

To ensure that you do not overwater your plant, only water it when the soil is dry and use well-draining soil. Also, ensure that your pot has drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to flow out rather than stagnate at the bottom of the pot.

Potting requirements

This plant prefers soil that is of good quality and is well-draining, airy and porous. This type of soil will allow the roots to breathe and dry out adequately between waterings. Add sphagnum moss, charcoal, perlite or orchid bark to help make the soil more breathable.

If you need to repot the plant, make sure the new pot is only slightly larger than the root ball of the plant. If the pot is too large, there will be too much room for moisture and that can lead to overwatering. If there is about an inch between the root ball and the wall of the pot, that should be big enough.

Light requirements

Philodendron Micans like bright, indirect light. Direct light may be too much for the plant and can lead to sun damage and burns on the leaves. This usually happens when the plant is kept near a south-facing window, so if this is the only window you have, place a sheer curtain over it to help diffuse the intensity of the sunlight.

Even though the plant prefers indirect light, this does not mean you can deprive it of light. Long periods of low light can cause the plant to become leggy with smaller leaves than normal. The best way to light this plant is to simulate what they would get in their natural habitat, which is bright, indirect light.

Fertilizing

You do not really need to fertilize this plant because it is a fast grower naturally, but if you want to, you can do so occasionally to help it reach its full potential. Use an indoor plant fertilizer once a month, only during the spring and summer.

Philodendron Micans propagation

Propagating in soil

There are two methods you can use to propagate this plant in soil.

The first method starts by cutting the vine a quarter of an inch below a node using sharp, sterilized scissors. It is important that you include the node in the cutting because this is where the roots will grow from.

Place the cutting directly onto the soil in a pot. The node needs to be under the soil so that the roots can properly grow out of it. Make sure none of the leaves are under the soil.

Move the pot with the cutting to a spot where it can get bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist but not boggy. It also helps to put the pot in a Ziploc bag because this increases the humidity around the plant and helps it grow better. Be sure to open the bag every couple of days to allow the plant to breathe.

After a couple of weeks, the roots should be established and there should be new, young leaves on the cutting. You can check whether the new roots are viable by pulling gently on the plant. If you feel some resistance, it means the roots have grown in nicely and you can proceed to care for it like you would a normal plant.

The second soil propagation method is much easier, as long as you have a wide work area that allows the plant to trail along with it. You will still need to remove a cutting from the parent plant, but this time, remove a cutting that has multiple nodes on it. Lay down the cutting with all the nodes facing the soil. If you need to fasten the vine to the soil, you can do so using paper clips. Keep the soil moist and place it in an area with bright, indirect light. Place a plastic cover over the top of the plant to lock in moisture.

After a few weeks, the nodes will all root down, and this way you will have several new plants to choose from.

Propagating in water

Propagating Philodendron Micans in water is also quite easy. You just need to take a cutting a quarter of an inch below a node, making sure the cutting includes at least one node and a few leaves.

Prepare a clear jar with room-temperature water and place the cutting in the water, making sure the node is below the water. Remove any leaves that could become submerged in the water.

Place the container with the cutting in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light. Refill the water in the container if it gets below the roots, and change the water when it becomes slimy or murky.

New roots will appear after a couple of days, but you will need to let them grow to several inches long before transferring them to potted soil. After transferring the plant to soil, keep the soil moist and care for the plant as you would a normal Philodendron Micans.

Conclusion

Philodendron Micans is an inexpensive, low-maintenance plant that makes a great beginner indoor plant. It can be grown as a trailing plant or as a hanging plant in a basket suspended from the ceiling. This plant only needs to be watered when the soil is dry. It wants bright, indirect light and will burn if left in direct light for too long. Plant it in a pot that is only slightly larger than its root ball, using well-draining soil. Fertilize the plant once a month, only during the growing season.

You can propagate this plant easily, either by planting a cutting with a viable node directly in soil, or by letting it grow roots in water first before replanting it in a pot with soil.

Image: istockphoto.com / Firn

The string of turtles plant, botanically named Peperomia prostrata, is a semi-succulent native to Brazil. It gets its moniker from its small, ornamental leaves that resemble turtle shells. It is easy to find and relatively low-maintenance, making it a great indoor plant.

In this article, we will go more in-depth into the proper cultural care of the string of turtles, as well as how to propagate it correctly.

If you are considering adding this plant to your collection and want to learn more about it, then keep reading.

String of turtles care

Light requirements

This plant likes bright, indirect light. Preferably place it in a spot that gets morning to early afternoon sun. Try not to put it anywhere that gets direct light for long periods of time, as this may cause the plant’s leaves to discolor and become a reddish-orange hue. If you are keeping the plant near a south-facing window, try diffusing the light with a sheer curtain.

If you live in a place where sunlight may be scarce for a few months in the year, you can use a grow light to help your plant. Just remember that grow lights affect the plant the same way as sunlight, so be careful not to provide too much light.

Although this plant is able to survive in low light conditions, try to avoid them because it can cause the plant to become leggy. The vines will grow long and thin and with smaller-than-usual leaves out of desperation to reach the nearest source of light, which is not ideal for the overall aesthetic of the plant.

Watering requirements

Because this plant is semi-succulent, its leaves can hold a good amount of moisture which can be used in times of drought or if you accidentally forget to water it for several days.

As with most houseplants, it is better to underwater the plant than to overwater it, because overwatering can cause the roots to drown and die. The dead roots will begin to rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens that will cause the rot to spread even faster to the rest of the plant, possibly killing it.

The best way to know when to water your plant is by feeling the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the soil is dry, water the plant, but if it is still a bit damp, wait one or two days and check it again.

If the soil appears to have shrunk and is looking cakey, it may have been left to dry out longer than necessary. Try aerating the top of the soil by poking small holes in it before watering.

There is no specific number of days to wait between waterings. The frequency of watering your string of turtles will also depend on the season and the weather. For instance, if you are watering the plant once every 10 days during the summer, you may only need to water it every 14 days in the cooler months.

Soil requirements

These plants are native to the rainforests of Brazil, so even though they are semi-succulents that do not need much water, they still appreciate damp soil. This delicate balance is achievable by using the correct soil type. A commercially available indoor potting mix with added peat moss should do the trick.

Peat moss will make the soil more porous and airy, allowing both water and air to flow easily through the soil. It also retains a certain amount of moisture, allowing the roots to get water while not necessarily sitting in it. As long as the soil drains well, there really is not much else the plant needs.

You can fertilize the plant with a fertilizer specially made for houseplants. Dilute the fertilizer in water and apply on the soil, only during the plant’s growing period, which is in spring and summer.

Temperature and humidity

You do not need to do much to cater to a string of turtles’ temperature needs, because it does well at room temperature. As long as the temperature is somewhere between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, your plant should be fine. If you are growing the plant outdoors, make sure you take it inside when the weather starts to get cold.

Because these plants are native to the rainforest, they appreciate relatively high humidity. You can help your plant by placing it close to other plants that also like high humidity, so that together they can create a microclimate. You can also mist the plant with water once a day to moisten the foliage, or buy a humidifier to help increase the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

String of turtles propagation

Propagation in soil

Growing cuttings in the soil is the easiest way to propagate a string of turtles, and we will discuss three different approaches here.

Method 1

With this method, we will use leaves to propagate the plant. Remove a couple of leaves from the parent plant, making sure that there are petioles attached to each leaf cutting. The petiole is the stem that anchors the leaf to the main stem.

Place the leaf into a pot with damp potting mix, making sure the petiole is in the soil.

Transfer the pot to a spot where it gets bright, indirect light. Make sure you do not overwater the plant, while also not letting the soil dry out completely.

This method takes a little longer than the other methods, simply because you are using a leaf and you will need to wait for it to establish roots.

Method 2

Use a sterile pair of scissors to take a cutting, making sure that it includes at least one node. Remove some leaves from the base of the cutting and plant it in a small pot with potting mix, making sure the nodes are under the soil, because this is where the roots will sprout from. As above, place the pot in a spot with bright, indirect light.

After a couple of weeks, check the root growth by giving the cutting a gentle pull. If there is resistance, that means the roots have grown in nicely and you can now grow the plant like you would a normal string of turtles.

Method 3

This next method also uses cuttings with multiple nodes, but this time, instead of planting the cutting upright in the soil, you will lay it down across the soil, making sure all the nodes are touching the soil. You can even create a coil from the cutting to fit the entire length into the area of the pot. Make sure the soil is moist and transfer the pot to a spot with bright, indirect light. You can mist the potting mix with a spray bottle every once in a while.

After a few weeks, each node will have grown roots into the potting mix and you can then separate the nodes with their plantlets into individual pots.

Propagation in water

Another method of propagation uses water. This usually takes longer than rooting a plant in potting mix, but it is fascinating to watch the roots grow in the water. Choose cuttings from the parent plant and make sure each one has at least one node. Remove any leaves close to the base of the cutting, because you do not want them submerged in the water.

Prepare a clear glass or plastic container by filling it halfway with water. Place the base of the cutting into the container of water, making sure you submerge the node but not the leaves.

Place the container in an area where it can get bright, indirect light, and change the water if it turns slimy or murky, or if the level drops below the node.

The roots will start to appear after two weeks, but you need to wait until they grow a few inches long before transferring the plant to a small pot with potting mix.

Conclusion

The string of turtles plant, or the Peperomia prostrata, is a low-maintenance semi-succulent native to the rainforests of Brazil.

This plant is easy to care for, and only needs to be watered when the soil is dry to the touch. It prefers bright, indirect light and will suffer sun damage if exposed to direct sunlight for long periods. Use well-draining soil and a pot with drainage holes at the bottom to avoid overwatering the plant.

Keep the plant indoors at room temperature and try to maintain a higher humidity around the plant by misting it with water or using a humidifier.

You can propagate the plant by planting leaf or stem cuttings directly in potting mix, or by letting them root in a container of water for a few weeks. When the plant has rooted in the soil, or if the roots have grown several inches in the water, you can proceed to care for the plant as you would a normal string of turtles.

Image: istockphoto.com / Matthew Lloyd

The Cebu Blue pothos is a vining plant that can be grown either indoors or outdoors. Native to the Philippines, this plant is low-maintenance and adapts well to different living conditions, as long as they are not too drastically different from their natural habitat.

This plant is very aesthetically pleasing and you will not have a hard time caring for it or propagating it.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of the Cebu Blue pothos and how to correctly propagate it.

If you are thinking about adding this plant to your collection and you want to learn more about it, just keep reading.

Cebu Blue pothos care

Light requirements

This plant grows best when exposed to bright, indirect light. Yes, it can survive in low-light environments, but this is not advisable. A plant living in low light conditions will become leggy and its leaves will grow smaller than normal. This is because the plant will focus its energy on trying to reach the closest source of light to survive.

Do not allow the plant to stay under direct light for long periods either, because the leaves will become scorched and turn brown. Placing the plant near a window is sufficient unless it is a south-facing window that may get the harsh afternoon light. If a south-facing window is the only available option, you can place a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the light.

If you live in a place where sunlight is scarce, especially during the wintertime, you may need to purchase a grow light to help the plant get the required amount of light.

Soil requirements

This plant likes its soil to be well-draining, airy and porous, so that both air and water can pass through with ease. If the soil is too dense or compact, it will retain moisture too well and the plant’s roots will end up soaked in waterlogged soil. The roots also need to be reached by oxygen in order to survive. You can add perlite to the soil to make it more porous. This plant really appreciates a chunky soil mix, and you should ensure that the soil pH is between 6.0 and 7.7.

Water requirements

This plant only really needs to be watered if the top of the soil is dry to the touch. If the soil is still damp when you touch it, wait one or two days before checking it again.

When you do water the plant, make sure all of the soil is soaked, all the way to the bottom of the pot. Keep watering until you can see excess water flowing from the pot’s drainage holes.

Sometimes, the soil may not be the best indicator of whether a plant needs water, so you should also watch out for signs on the plant itself. If the leaves are starting to droop and look withered, you may be underwatering the plant.

Never overwater the plant, however, because the consequences may be irreversible. If the roots are constantly in wet soil, they can drown and die and this will lead to root rot. The rot will travel up the roots into the stem, until the entire plant is compromised. Overwatering can kill your plant, so be extra careful about this.

Humidity

The Cebu Blue pothos is not really difficult to cater to when it comes to humidity.

Often, the humidity inside your home, at around 70%, will be enough for the plant. However, if you live in a part of the country that is drier than most, you can help the plant out by placing a pebble tray with water under the plant’s pot. As the water evaporates it will help moisten the plant’s soil and leaves. You can also use a spray bottle to mist the leaves once or twice a day. If you have a hard time keeping up with a misting schedule, you can buy a humidifier to regulate the humidity in your home and around your plant.

Temperature

The Cebu Blue pothos can tolerate temperature changes as long as they do not stay in the extremes for very long. Room temperature is often good enough for this plant.

If you bring the plant home from a greenhouse and notice that it has become a bit droopy or wilted, do not fret; it may just be due to the sudden change in temperature. Over the next few days, the plant will acclimatize to its new surroundings and it should bounce back with no problem.

Keep the plant at temperatures between 60 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit and it should be just fine.

Try to keep it away from cold or warm drafts, such as from heating or air conditioning vents, or from open windows and doors.

Fertilizer requirements

You do not really need to use a fertilizer on this plant, but if you want to, use a liquid fertilizer during its growing season in the spring and summer. 

Adding fertilizer may help the plant reach its full potential; this will depend on the state of the plant during the growing season. If you think the plant is looking a little peckish and could use a good feed, then go right ahead. Make sure you do not overdo it, though, and only ever in the spring and summer.

Common Cebu Blue pothos problems

Brown leaves

If you notice the leaves on your plant turning brown and becoming crispy, this may be due to overexposure to sunlight, too little or too much water, low humidity, or overfeeding.

If the plant is in a place where it gets hit by direct sunlight, transfer it. Check whether the soil is too dry or too boggy, and correct accordingly if needed. Also, assess the ambient humidity levels, and whether you may have been giving the plant too much fertilizer.

Yellow leaves

Yellowing Cebu Blue pothos leaves can be due to too little or too much light, underwatering or overwatering, or a nutrient deficiency.

Check the plant’s lighting conditions and move it if necessary. Check the soil’s moisture level to make sure you are watering it adequately, and you can conduct a soil test to ascertain whether any nutrients are deficient.

Legginess

As mentioned above, this plant can become leggy and its leaves will become smaller if it is kept in a place where it cannot get as much light as it needs.

The plant will end up concentrating its resources on lengthening certain limbs to reach the nearest light source.

Remedy this by transferring the plant to a spot where it can get plenty of bright, indirect light.

Pests

The most common pests found on Cebu Blue pothos are spider mites, aphids, scale insects, mealybugs, and fungus gnats. Check the underside of the plant’s leaves each time you water it, so that you can catch any infestation in its early stages. Use a cotton ball to wipe neem oil on both sides of each leaf so that all the pests and their eggs are killed.

Make sure the infested plant is kept far away from your other, healthy plants. Apply neem oil once a week for a month to make sure that all the pests have been eradicated.

Cebu Blue pothos propagation

Propagation in soil

Soil propagation is best done during the spring or summer, when the weather is warm. This is also the plant’s growing season, which is an important consideration since you are going to be growing these cuttings into their own plants. Do not propagate in the cold months when the plant is dormant.

Choose the end of a vine with at least one node, and cut below the node using a sterilized knife or scissors. If there are any leaves near the base of the cutting, remove them. You do not want these leaves to be under the soil when you plant the cutting.

Fill a small pot with fresh potting soil. Poke a hole in the middle of the soil and place the cutting stem-first into it. Make sure at least one node is under the soil. Pat the soil around the base of the plant to hold the cutting in place. Water the plant just a little bit.

Place the pot in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light and water it as needed. You can place a plastic bag over the pot to help contain moisture and increase humidity.

After a few weeks, check whether the roots have been established by pulling gently on the plant. If there is resistance, that means the roots have grown in nicely and you can now take care of the plant the same way you would a normal plant.

Propagation in water

Rooting the cutting in water is another effective way to propagate Cebu Blue pothos.

Choose a stem that has at least one node on it, and cut the stem just below the node using a sterile knife. Remove any leaves that are close to the base of the cutting.

Prepare a clear glass or plastic container and fill it halfway with water.

Place the cutting in the container, making sure the node is submerged in the water. Do not use cold water; room-temperature water is best.

Transfer the container to a spot with bright, indirect sunlight. Top up the water if it gets below the node and change it if it becomes slimy or murky.

After a few weeks, you should see roots growing from the bottom of the cutting. Let the roots grow to a few inches long before removing the cutting and planting it in its own pot with soil.

Conclusion

The Cebu Blue pothos is a low-maintenance trailing plant that is also very easy to propagate. It is native to the Philippines, but is also found in other Asian countries and Australia. 

This plant only needs bright, indirect light, room temperature and humidity, water when the soil is dry, and fertilizer during the growing season as needed.

You can propagate cuttings from the plant either by planting them in soil or letting them root in water. Either method is effective and can help you add more of the same plant to your collection.

Image: istockphoto.com / Firn

Cleaning your plant’s leaves with a mixture of water and vinegar can be an effective way to remove dust or any kind of residue on the surface of the leaves.

Mix a tablespoon of vinegar and two cups of water and, using a cloth, apply the solution to the leaves. This not only cleans your plants; it can also keep pests and pets away.

In this article, we will discuss more how to use vinegar to clean your plant’s leaves, and why it is important.

Is it important to clean a houseplant’s leaves?

Yes, you should make it a part of your regular house-cleaning routine to clean your houseplants as well. Remember that plants’ leaves have a considerable surface area, and soil and dust particles, water marks and mineral buildup can remain on the leaves if you do not clean them. All the substances that accumulate on the leaves will form a layer that acts as a shield against the sunlight. If the light can no longer reach the plant’s leaves, this can have detrimental effects on the plant’s overall health. The plant will be unable to photosynthesize properly, and therefore unable to produce food for its vitality and survival.

Another reason you need to clean your houseplants is that there might be foreign dirt on the plant, especially if you have just brought it home from the store or from a greenhouse. Accumulated dirt from the greenhouse may include hard water, condensation from the ceiling, foliage cleaners and pesticides. You will sleep better knowing you are not going to be bringing those elements into your home.

Before taking any new plant into your home, as well as any of the existing plants that you may have taken outside for some time, consider that these plants may be harboring pests that you need to eradicate before taking the plant back inside.

There is an assortment of possible pests that could be living on the plant, such as white flies, aphids, scale insects and mealybugs. Wipe down the entire plant to remove the insects and their eggs. You might have to dispose of the cloth you used so that you do not use it on any of your healthy plants.

Lastly, plants will look shinier and prettier if their leaves are not covered in a layer of filth and dirt. So, if you want to maintain the plant’s aesthetic, cleaning it periodically is an easy way to do this.

How often do you need to clean your houseplant?

The frequency of cleaning your plants will often depend on the household. Some households only get noticeably dusty every two weeks, while others seem to get dusty every week. This is a good basis for how often you need to clean your plants. If the surfaces in your house, such as furniture or countertops, have a layer of dust or grime on them, chances are your plants will also have this much dust and grime on them.

If you live next to a dirt road or some other place that is dustier than most, it might be best to check on your plants at least once a week.

What does one need to clean a houseplant?

There are different ways to go about cleaning your houseplants’ leaves, and the tools you use will also depend on the type of dirt that is on the leaves. If you are only going to clean off dirt and dust, you can just use a feather duster or a damp cloth.

When using a damp cloth, hold the back of the leaf with the palm of your hand to act as a brace as you wipe it. This is also so you are not pulling on the stem while cleaning, which would risk pulling the leaf off by accident. Apply as much pressure as needed to clean off the dirt. You can also use a feather duster to remove dust from leaves the same way.

Another way to gently clean a houseplant is by using a shower. This is better for plants that are more delicate or have leaves that are too small to effectively clean individually. Place the shower on a warm setting and make sure the pressure is on low; this way you are not blasting the delicate plant with a strong stream of water. Make sure you rotate the plant while under the shower so that it gets washed from all angles.

What if the residue cannot be removed with a damp cloth or a shower?

If the grime is not easily removed, you can use other methods to clean the leaves. Thankfully, the materials you will need are already in your home.

Remember that these methods are not advisable for use on a regular basis. Only use them when the grime is stubborn and cannot be removed by the methods mentioned above.

Vinegar method

For the vinegar method, you will need two cups of soft water, if available, one tablespoon of white vinegar, and a soft cloth.

Mix the vinegar and the water together in a bowl. Dip the cloth into the solution and, with your non-dominant hand, brace the back of the leaf while wiping the leaf down with your other hand. Try not to pull on the stems, but still apply the pressure necessary to wipe properly.

Vinegar is very effective in removing stubborn residue and water marks from leaves. Vinegar can also be a great pest repellent, as well as keeping curious pets from disturbing the plant. Mineral buildup from hard water can also be removed easily by water and vinegar, so do not worry about those unsightly white stains on your plant’s leaves.

Lime or lemon juice method

Another method you can use is to mix a tablespoon of lemon or lime juice with two cups of water. Dip the cloth into the solution and do the same as you would do with a vinegar solution. Brace the back of the leaf with one hand and wipe down the leaf with the cloth in your other hand. Try not to use the same area of the cloth twice, so that no dirt will transfer to the clean parts of the leaf.

Conclusion

Clean your plant’s leaves with vinegar by mixing one tablespoon of vinegar in two cups of water and using this solution on a cloth to wipe down the leaves.

This solution can effectively remove not only dirt and dust on the leaves’ surface but also stains and water marks left by hard water. The mineral buildup from several weeks of watering the plant is easily cleaned off by the vinegar and water solution.

Do not use this solution as a regular method for cleaning your plants. You are better off cleaning the leaves with a damp cloth every two weeks to make sure the sunlight is not blocked from reaching the leaves by dirt and dust.

Image: istockphoto.com / Elena Rui

The Peperomia Hope is a member of the genus Peperomia, which is a group of low-maintenance, beautiful plants with uniquely shaped leaves that bring vibrance to any space.

This plant has flat, round, green leaves that grow on a trailing stem. They can grow to just over a foot long, so they will not take up much space in your home.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of these plants and how to correctly propagate them.

If you are considering adding this plant to your collection and you wish to learn more about it, then keep reading.

Peperomia Hope care

Light requirements

This plant only needs moderate filtered light. Some people even consider it a low light plant, because it can survive in low light conditions and really struggles in direct sunlight. However, the truth is that it will also struggle if kept in low light conditions for long periods. You will notice the plant’s leaves becoming duller the longer it is kept in the dark.

Ideal places to keep your Peperomia Hope are in a planter on a balcony, or right next to an east- or south-facing window. As long as the plant is not blasted with direct sunlight for extended hours, it will do fine with filtered light conditions. If the only window available gets light that is too strong, drape a sheer curtain over it to diffuse the intensity of the light.

During the colder seasons, when sunlight is scarce, use a grow light for 12 hours a day to help the plant.

Soil requirements

This plant likes its soil to be well-draining, airy and porous, because the roots need access to oxygen in order to survive. Add perlite, coarse sand and coconut chips into the soil mix to improve the aeration, so that both water and air can pass easily through the soil to reach the roots.

This plant’s roots and leaves should also never dry out, so aside from adding draining materials to the soil mix, also try adding mulch, peat moss, coco peat and compost as well. These organic materials will help retain a certain level of moisture so that the plant does not dry out too quickly.

They will also be a great help in keeping the plant’s pH at around 6.0 to 6.6.

Try to keep the organic and draining components at a 50/50 ratio.

Watering requirements

If the soil has a 50/50 ratio of draining to organic components, the best test is to water the soil in the pot and see if all of the water leaves the pot after just a couple of seconds. The water should not carry any soil with it as it flows out from the bottom of the pot.

To know when to water, touch the top two inches of soil in the pot to see if it is dry or soggy. If the soil is crumbly and dry, you need to water the plant. If the soil is still quite damp, wait one or two days and check it again.

The frequency of watering will also depend on the weather and the season. In the summer, you may need to water the plant as often as every three or four days, but during the winter you may only need to water it every 14 days.

The most important thing to remember is never to overwater your plant, no matter what. Overwatering can lead to the death of the roots, which in turn leads to root rot. This rot can make its way up the plant and affect the entire plant, possibly killing it eventually.

Temperature

Keep the plant at temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Fortunately, this is the average room temperature for most homes in the U.S. so you do not have to do anything drastic to cater to the plant’s temperature needs. Just remember that while this plant does fine in the warm weather, it has absolutely no tolerance for frost. So, make sure you take the plant indoors during the winter to keep it safe.

Keeping peperomias outside all year round is only appropriate for places near the equator.

Humidity

Just like with temperature, peperomias are completely fine with the normal levels of humidity in most households. 40 to 50% humidity is sufficient for them.

If you happen to live in one of the drier places in the world, you can help the plant by misting it with water, using a pebble and water tray beneath the plant’s pot, or using a humidifier to automatically increase the humidity in the room where your plant is kept.

Another easy trick is to group other tropical evergreens with the plant so that together they create a microclimate around one another, effectively increasing the humidity for their little group.

Fertilizer requirements

Peperomia Hope tends to do quite well when given fertilizer. You can use a slow-release manure fertilizer first, but usually the organic additives you placed in the soil mix will be sufficient for the plant’s first couple of months.

Give the plant a balanced fertilizer once a month during its growth period only, and never feed it during the winter months because it is dormant during this time.

Peperomia Hope propagation

Propagation using stem cuttings in water

With this method, you will need to take a stem cutting using a sterilized knife or scissors, making sure that you cut just below a node. The node is important because this is where the roots of the new plant will grow from. Remove any leaves that are near the base of the cutting.

Prepare a glass or clear plastic container and fill it halfway with tepid water.

Place the cutting in the container with the node submerged in the water. Place the container in a spot where the cutting can get bright, indirect light. Refill the water in the container if it gets below the node, and replace it if it becomes slimy or murky.

After a few weeks, you will notice roots starting to grow from the node. Wait until the roots are a few inches long before removing the cutting from the water and planting it in its own small pot with soil. You can now care for the plant as you would a normal plant.

Propagation using stem cuttings in soil

Remove a few cuttings from the parent plant, making sure you cut below the node using a sterilized knife or scissors. Remove the leaves close to the base of the cutting, because you will not be needing them.

Prepare several small pots filled with moist potting mix. Poke a hole in the soil of each, and insert a cutting, making sure that the node is under the soil. Place the pots in a spot where they can get bright, indirect light; you can place clear plastic bags over them if you like, to help trap moisture around the plant. Open the bag once a week so that the plant can get some fresh air.

After three to four weeks, test the plant by gently tugging the stem. If there is resistance when you tug, it means the roots have established themselves well. You can now care for these new plants like your normal plants, and they should be fine.

Conclusion

The Peperomia Hope is a low-maintenance tropical evergreen that can be propagated very easily.

All this plant needs is bright, indirect light, room temperature and humidity, well-draining, airy and porous soil, and fertilizer once a month during its growing phase in the spring and summer.

Only water the plant when the soil in the pot feels dry to the touch. If the soil is still damp, wait one or two days and check it.

You can propagate this plant by rooting stem cuttings in water before planting them in soil, or you can plant the stem cutting directly in a small pot with soil and it should establish its roots after three to four weeks. Both methods are very simple and effective, so you should have no problem using either method.

Image: istockphoto.com / Pro2sound

An African violet will develop a neck, which is an elongated ‘trunk’ at the center of the plant when its lower rows of leaves have been removed or fallen off. The remedy for necks is to repot the African violet, because the lowest row of leaves is now too high above soil level.

In this article, we will discuss the importance of repotting an African violet with a neck, and how to properly perform this repotting. If you have encountered this issue with your African violet, keep reading to find out more.

How do you know your African violet has a neck?

You will know that your African violet has a neck when it no longer has its signature rosette shape with the lowest leaves lying almost flat on the soil.

The elongated neck will look like the trunk of a palm tree or a thin tree trunk. It will start from the soil and end where the first row of leaves is attached to the plant, but this row of leaves will be further from soil level than normal.

When necks are just starting to develop, they are only one to two inches long, so you may have a difficult time spotting anything wrong with your plant.

If you neglect your plant for long enough, however, the neck can grow up to six inches long. By this time, it will have tilted to the side from the weight of the crown; this tilt is also known as a ‘goose neck’.

How long does a neck develop on an African violet?

Newer leaves on an African violet form from the top and center of the plant, or the crown. The lowest and outermost leaves are the oldest leaves on the plant.

This process of new growth is also what gives the plant its signature rosette formation. Because the plant uses its energy to make new leaves at the top, the leaves at the bottom will die back naturally over time. They will turn yellow, shrivel and dry out.

You might be tempted to remove these leaves because they detract from the general aesthetic of the plant, as well as to encourage more new growth at the top.

The more leaves are lost from the bottom of the plant, the more the stem becomes bare, forming a neck. The longer the neck is allowed to become, the more it pulls the plant away from the soil and the pot.

When this happens, you need to repot the plant so that the neck is hidden or buried in the soil again.

Why is it important to hide the necks on African violets?

The most common reason for dealing with necks on African violets is for aesthetic purposes. When the plant no longer has its normal rosette shape, it can detract significantly from the beauty of the plant.

Another reason to address a plant with a neck is the precariousness of the gooseneck when it grows at an angle.

The long neck also makes the plant more susceptible to disease and root rot, because the neck is exposed to the environment.

How to repot an African violet with a neck

Before doing anything, make sure your African violet actually does have a long neck. As described above, the neck is a thin, tree-like trunk that appears as more and more leaves are removed or drop off.

If an African violet is growing properly, the lowest leaves should grow at the soil level.

A plant with a neck will have its lowest row of leaves above the soil, and possibly even above the rim of the pot.

Repotting the plant hides the neck, and this should be done at least once a year.

Remove the plant gently from the soil so that the roots do not break off. Remove the bottom of the root ball  by cutting it away. The length removed from the root ball should be equal to the length of the neck. Thus, if the neck is an inch long, cut off an inch from the bottom of the root ball.

If you repot regularly, you will only have to deal with small necks, meaning only a small portion of the roots needs to be removed. Remember that removing a larger portion of roots causes considerably more stress on the plant and should be avoided if possible.

After you have removed part of the root ball, place the plant back into the same pot if the plant is young. If the plant is more mature, choose a slightly larger pot. Because a significant portion of roots has been removed, the smaller root ball can now be pushed lower into the pot. Ideally, push the roots down low enough that the lowest row of leaves rests on the rim of the pot and no lower.

Place fresh, well-draining soil in the pot to cover the roots. Again, the lowest row of leaves should be at the same level as the rim of the pot so that the plant can regain its rosette shape.

The fresh soil should be able to cover the neck. Over time, new roots will emerge from the neck and grow into the soil.

When the African violet is done being repotted, the neck should be completely hidden and the soil and lowest ring of leaves should meet at the level of the pot’s rim.

Water the soil lightly until the plant has established its roots. Remember to water less than normal, as it is still recovering from being repotted.

Conclusion

African violets lose the lower, older rows of leaves on their stems due to the natural growing process, or when the lower leaves are pruned off for aesthetic reasons.

The more the lower leaves are shed or removed, the more the stem is exposed, creating a neck. Initially the neck will be less than an inch long, but if left unresolved, it can grow to be several inches and will tilt sideways.

Repotting your African violet at least once a year will keep necks from forming or from growing too long.

When repotting, remove the plant from the pot and cut off a section of the root ball from the bottom. The length you cut off should be equal to the length of the neck.

Place the plant back in the pot and cover the roots and the neck with soil until the soil reaches the rim of the pot. The lowest row of leaves should now be resting on the rim of the pot.

Water the soil, but give considerably less than normal while the plant recovers from the trauma of repotting.

Image: istockphoto.com / OksanaRadchenko

African violet crown rot, also called root rot, is a condition that develops in the plant’s roots when the soil or growing medium is constantly wet. It starts out with the roots dying because they are not getting any oxygen, but eventually opportunistic pathogens, such as the Pythium or Phytophthora fungus, will take advantage of the compromised roots. The rot will move upward to the crown of the root, becoming crown rot.

In this article, we will discuss the causes of African violet crown rot, as well as the measures to take to remedy the condition.

What is African violet crown rot?

Crown rot in African violets starts in the rootlets, which are the fine, hair-like structures that grow from the tertiary roots. When you uproot a plant from the soil and a root ball has formed, the rootlets will be intertwined with one another, holding onto the soil within the root ball.These rootlets are very thin and you may not even see them with your naked eye. Despite being minute, they are essential to keeping the plant hydrated because these rootlets are responsible for the absorption of water.

The water travels from the rootlets, up the tertiary roots to the secondary roots, then into the primary, or main root stem or crown stem.

When there is too much water in the soil or growing medium, the rootlets will clog with water and begin to rot. The rot in the rootlets will attract dormant fungal spores in the soil, and these pathogens will help the rot spread even faster up to the tertiary and secondary roots, until it reaches the crown stem where it will cause crown rot. The roots will turn brown or black and will start to feel mushy to the touch. Before long, the crown stem will also become brown and mushy. This generally means that the plant is severely compromised and may only have a slim chance at recovery.

What causes African violet crown rot?

The most basic cause of crown rot in African violets is overwatering. Several factors can contribute to the plant becoming overwatered, such as the soil or growing medium being too dense and compacted, making it retain moisture too well. Because the water becomes stagnant in the dense soil, the roots become clogged, leading to root and crown rot.

Another reason your plant may have root rot is if the temperature around the plant is hot during the day, but then drops to very low temperatures overnight when you water the plant. Watering the plant’s roots in the cold evening with cool water can lead to rot because the roots do not have the sun to help dry the soil fast enough.

Inversely, during hot summers, when you water the plant during the day, the soil dries out faster than normal and can also stress the plant and lead to root and crown rot.

A sudden change in the soil’s conditions can also cause the plant to become stressed and get root rot. If you have been letting the soil dry out too much for the plant’s first few months, and you then overcompensate by giving it too much water, followed by another period of drying out completely, these constant changes to the soil can cause root and crown rot because the root system becomes weakened.

One of the most common mistakes made by new African violet owners is planting the violet in soil that is not well-draining or using a pot that does not have sufficient drainage holes at the bottom. These factors, coupled with giving the plant too much water too frequently throughout the day, will damage the plant’s roots.

How do you know when your African violet has crown rot?

The most obvious signs of crown rot can be seen above the ground. You will see the leaves start to droop, and those closest to the base will turn brown and become mushy. The stem near the base will also feel mushy to the touch, and this essentially means that the crown stem has been compromised.

Normally, the leaves would feel firm to the touch, but in the case of crown rot, they are wilted and soft.

The first symptoms to appear are underneath the soil, so unfortunately you will only really come across these early symptoms incidentally. You might be repotting the plant and end up catching the rot in its early stages. If there are signs appearing in the leaves and stems, you should remove the plant from the pot to check the roots and see whether the soil is waterlogged.

Shake or wash off as much soil from the roots as you can, so that you can inspect the roots more easily.

Check all of the tertiary and secondary roots, as well as the crown root. If any of the roots are brown or black and if they feel mushy and soft, you have root or crown rot.

If the outside of the primary main root stem is mushy, then the inside of the crown is most probably rotten too.

If you want to be absolutely sure, you can slice off the stub. If the center of the stub is not green or red but is brown, it is rotten.

African violet crown rot treatment

Unfortunately, if the rot has reached the crown of the root, the plant is most likely too far gone to make it, despite any treatment measures.

Often, the best thing to do is uproot the plant and dispose of it properly, because it may take less effort to start over with a new plant.

If you want to save your African violet, however, you can try to do so.

First, make sure you quarantine the plant. Remove any dying foliage such as leaves and stems.

Remove the plant from the soil and shake and wash off as much soil as you can. Be gentle when handling the roots because they may be delicate due to their weakened state.

Using a sterilized, sharp pair of scissors, cut off the rotten roots until only healthy, white roots are left. Remove part of the crown root if you need to, but make sure there are enough healthy roots still left to give the plant a fighting chance at recovery.

Spray the healthy roots with a fungicide to protect them from reinfection and let the plant dry out on a paper towel on a wire rack or tray. The roots should be dry after a few hours. Repot the African violet in a pot with drainage holes, using fresh soil. The soil must be well-draining, airy, and porous.

Conclusion

African violet crown rot is caused by circumstances that lead to the plant becoming overwatered or the soil becoming waterlogged and soggy.

The rootlets become clogged and will start to rot, and eventually the compromised roots are attacked by opportunistic pathogens, such as fungi, that are dormant in the soil. The infection helps the rot spread faster to the tertiary and secondary roots, until even the crown of the root becomes rotten.

Most of the time, a rotten crown root means the plant is doomed, but you can try saving it by removing all the rotten parts and replanting the violet in well-draining soil, using a pot with drainage holes in the bottom.

Image: istockphoto.com / Olga Yakovleva

Purple vanda orchids are one of the most popular orchid varieties because of their fragrance, their many flowers, and their striking color. They may be slightly tricky to care for in the beginning, but the longer you care for the plant, the easier you will find it to grow them.

These orchids are native to countries in Asia and the Pacific. They are epiphytes, which means that they grow on the sides of trees or other plants and absorb a lot of their required moisture and nutrients from the air, via their roots.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of purple vanda orchids, and how to correctly propagate them. If you are thinking about adding this plant to your collection and you wish to learn more, then keep reading.

Purple vanda orchid care

Light requirements

The purple vanda orchid likes bright, indirect light, and will suffer sun damage almost immediately if left under direct sunlight. If the plant is kept outdoors, place it under a garden net or under the shade of a large tree. Remember that these plants are epiphytes that grow on the trunks of trees in the rainforest where they are protected from the sun by the tree canopy. Stippled sunlight is what these plants get in the wild, so it only makes sense for you to provide as close as possible to this in your home or garden.

If you keep the plant indoors, choose a north- or east-facing window because these windows let in the right kind of light during most hours of the day. If the only window available lets in light that is too harsh, you can place a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the intensity of the light coming in.

In the winter, when sunlight is scarce, help your vanda orchid by putting it under a grow light. Remember to turn the light off after 12 hours, because anything more than that can cause sun damage.

Watering requirements

There is no set schedule to follow when watering your vanda orchid. The frequency of watering will depend on how fast the potting medium dries out, which in turn depends on the climate where you live, the season of the year, and the current weather. This means that a purple vanda orchid in a cold climate, in the winter, with lots of snow and rainfall, will not need to be watered as often as one being grown in a warm climate, in the summer, with little to no rainfall.

The best way to determine whether the plant needs to be watered is by touching the potting medium. If the top two inches of potting medium are dry, water the plant, but if the top two inches are still damp, wait one or two days before checking again.

When the plant is in its growing phase in the spring and summer, it will need more water than during the winter.

One of the biggest mistakes a plant owner can make is to overwater their purple vanda orchid. Overwatering can be due to giving too much water each time, or watering the plant more often than it needs. It can also be caused by a pot that has no drainage holes, or if the potting medium is not well-draining and holds moisture too well. These factors can all contribute to the orchid’s roots standing in potting medium that is too wet. When the roots stand for too long in stagnant water, they will drown and die. The dead roots will then rot and become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens which exacerbate the rot, and before you know it the entire plant can be affected. By the time the stems and the leaves become soft, mushy and brown, the plant may be too far gone with rot and will have almost no chance of recovering.

If you suspect that your vanda orchid is overwatered, remove it from the pot and wash off as much of the old potting medium as possible without damaging the roots. Inspect the roots and remove those that have turned brown or black, using sterilized scissors to do so.

Let the roots dry out a little bit before repotting the plant in a pot that has drainage holes, using a well-draining potting medium.

Soil requirements

The purple vanda orchid is an epiphyte, so it should not be planted in traditional potting soil. In the wild, these plants will latch onto trees and rocks and rely on their roots to absorb water and nutrients from the surface they are latching onto, or from the air. Use potting materials that will allow the roots to meander and will let air flow freely around them. You can even put orchid bark and peat moss in a basket and the vanda orchid will be perfectly happy in that.

As mentioned above, use a pot or container that is breathable and has sufficient drainage holes at the bottom, so that any excess water will simply flow out, reducing the chances of overwatering.

Temperature and humidity requirements

The purple vanda orchid is happy in temperatures of 65 degrees Fahrenheit and higher. It can tolerate temperatures as low as 30 degrees Fahrenheit, but not for long periods of time because that can be fatal. Make sure you take the plant indoors during the winter to protect it from the frost, and do not place it where warm or cold drafts pass through, such as near heating vents or air conditioners. Both warm and cold air will quickly dry out the plant, which is very damaging in the long run.

In terms of humidity, keep it around 60 percent or higher. Remember that these plants are from Asia and they appreciate a good degree of humidity. The humidity inside most homes is probably sufficient, but if you live in a particularly dry place, you can take some measures to increase the humidity around your plant.

You can do this using a pebble tray filled with water. Place the plant’s pot on top of the pebble tray and, as the water evaporates, the potting medium and the plant’s foliage will be moistened. You can also place the plant next to other plants that like higher humidity so that together they can create a microclimate around themselves.

If you have the means, you could also buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity levels in your home without you having to worry about it.

Fertilizer requirements

Purple vanda orchids need to be fertilized after blooming, to replenish the nutrients used to produce flowers.

In the spring and summer, when the orchid is actively growing, feed it once a week. Use a fertilizer high in phosphorus to help the plant produce plenty of beautiful flowers.

In the winter, when the plant is dormant, feed it once a month at most.

Purple vanda orchid propagation

Propagate your purple vanda by cutting a stem with aerial roots on it. Use sterilized pruning shears to cut the branch between sets of leaves, and make sure that you have included some aerial roots. This will be the cutting you will be planting.

In a pot, place orchid-friendly substrate as a potting medium, filling up to an inch below the rim of the pot. Use materials such as bark, perlite, charcoal or volcanic stone, and refrain from using regular potting soil because it is much too dense and will retain too much moisture for the plant’s liking.

Place the cutting in the middle of the potting medium, making sure the aerial roots are also inserted into the hole. Make sure that the pot you are using has drainage holes at the bottom.

You can give the cutting some fertilizer to encourage growth.

After a few weeks, you will see new growth on the cutting, and after several months to a year you will have a mature purple vanda orchid.

How to grow purple vanda orchids

Growing purple vanda orchids is not that difficult, relative to other orchid species. A beginner orchid owner can easily learn how to do it.

Prepare a special orchid potting mix and make sure it is moist. Prepare pots or containers that have drainage holes at the bottom and place the containers in a spot where they get plenty of bright, indirect light. Place the plant in the middle of the potting medium and water the roots of the plant until you can see the excess water flowing out of the holes at the bottom. You can add half-strength fertilizer to this water.

If you take proper care of the orchid, it will grow strong, fleshy roots. If they seem rootbound in the container, repot the plant in a container one size larger than the current one.

After a few months, the plant should bloom, to reward you for your great care.

Conclusion

Purple vanda orchids have beautiful, fragrant, purple flowers that attract plenty of orchid collectors. The plant is relatively low-maintenance, especially when compared with other orchids.

This plant needs bright, indirect light, water when the top two inches of potting medium are dry, regular room temperature, slightly high humidity, and fertilizing once weekly in spring and summer and once a month in fall and winter.

The purple vanda is propagated by cutting off the top of the stem, including some aerial roots. Plant the cutting in a fresh potting medium and place it where it can get bright, indirect light. After a couple of weeks, you should see new growth on the cutting.

Image: istockphoto.com / lion95

The coconut orchid, or the Maxillaria tenuifolia, is one of the most common species of orchid in the world. It is relatively low-maintenance and easy to propagate, making it a great choice for beginner orchid growers.

The plant gets its name because of its scent that strongly resembles coconut. It has beautiful triangular flowers and long leaves, and these are only some of the reasons this plant is a collector’s favorite.

In this article, we will discuss the proper cultural care of the coconut orchid, as well as the correct way to propagate it. So, if you are considering adding the coconut orchid to your collection and wish to learn more about it, then keep reading.

Coconut Orchid Care

Watering requirements

As with most plants, the best way to water your coconut orchid is to simulate the watering conditions it would get if it were growing in its natural habitat. Because the plant is native to rainforests, it appreciates a bit more moisture during the rainy season, while being allowed to dry between waterings during the dry season. The dry season is typically between the months of December and April, so during this period, you should water the plant once every two to three weeks. Although the plant does not need as much water during this period, remember that this is not a strict rule. If the plant seems to be drying out when you water it every 14 days, you may need to adjust and reduce the number of days between waterings.

If you have a hard time keeping track of when to water the plant, the easiest way to determine the need for water is by touching the plant’s potting medium. If the potting medium is dry to the touch, water the plant, but if it is still damp, wait a few days before checking it again.

In the rainy season, mimic the plentiful rainfall that the plant gets in its natural habitat, and water it up to five times a week. The plant needs this constant moisture during this time to grow optimally. Keep in mind, though, that it should still dry out to a certain extent between waterings. Do not just mindlessly water the plant if the potting medium is still visibly soggy, because too much water in the potting medium can lead to root rot.

Root rot happens when the plant’s roots are not allowed to dry out between waterings. The constant moisture attracts fungi and bacteria and will cause the roots to die and rot. The rot will spread to the other parts of the plant and before you know it, the entire orchid may be affected.

If you suspect that your coconut orchid is overwatered, check its roots for signs of root rot. If there are roots that are brown or black, cut them off using a sterilized knife or pruning shears. Make sure the only remaining roots are white or green, because those are the healthy ones. Change the potting medium for one that is more airy, porous and well-draining.

Be vigilant of when the dry season starts so that you know when to start tapering the plant’s watering schedule. Normally, watering is gradually reduced around September.

Coconut orchids are particular about the kind of water they get. Use filtered water or, better yet, rainwater, so that there are minimal amounts of minerals that can possibly build up around the plant’s roots.

Light requirements

Coconut orchids prefer bright, indirect light. Direct light will cause sun damage to the plant’s bulbs and foliage. If kept indoors, place the plant next to a north- or east-facing window. If the only window available is letting in light that is too harsh, you can place a sheer curtain over the window to help diffuse the light.

If you are keeping the plant outside, make sure that you keep it under a garden net or under the shade of a large tree. Remember that in the rainforest, these plants grow on the trunks of large trees and only get the dappled light that filters through the tree canopy.

In the winter, when light is scarce, help your plant by getting it a grow light. If you keep it in low light conditions, its leaves will grow unnaturally long in an attempt to reach the nearest available source of light.

Humidity requirements

Because these plants are native to rainforests, they enjoy a level of humidity higher than most plants do. They can generally tolerate the humidity levels found in most homes, but if you live in a place where the air is drier than normal, you may need to take some measures to keep the humidity at around 50 to 70 percent.

You can do this by misting the plant every once in a while so that the foliage and bulbs do not dry out. You can also place a pebble tray filled with water under the plant’s pot, and as the water evaporates it will moisten the foliage and the potting medium. If you have other plants that also enjoy increased humidity, place the orchid near them so that, as a group, they can create a microclimate around each other. Lastly, if you have the budget, you could buy a humidifier to help automatically regulate the humidity level around the plant.

Temperature requirements

Keep the temperature around the plant between 55 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit throughout the day, and make sure anything lower or higher than this range only lasts for short periods. The plant can tolerate extremes, but prolonged exposure to these can cause lasting damage.

If the plant is kept indoors, make sure it is not directly in the path of warm or cold drafts. These drafts can dry out the plant very quickly. This means keeping the plant away from heating vents, air conditioners, and spots where air from the outside can get in through cracks in doors or windows.

Potting medium

The coconut orchid is an epiphytic plant, meaning that it grows on the bark of trees or on other plants in its natural habitat. If you are able to mount the plant on cork or on tree ferns, this will make it very happy, but you need to know how to do this properly.

If you plant the orchid in a pot, use a potting mix with perlite, coir and bark. Planting it in soil will make it susceptible to root rot, because soil does not dry fast enough for the orchid’s liking. You can also place the plant in a hanging basket so that the roots and leaves have more air passing through them, as they would in the wild.

Adding sphagnum moss to the potting medium helps with water retention while also allowing the roots to dry out properly. Try not to add too much, however, because that will cause too much moisture and sogginess. You can also add charcoal into the pot to help get rid of excess moisture.

Fertilizer requirements

The best time to fertilize your coconut orchid is during the spring. Use a fertilizer that is rich in nitrogen, and apply it once a week. Nitrogen-rich fertilizer helps the plant’s metabolism.

The coconut orchid blooms in the summer, and you can help increase the flowering cycle by giving it a phosphorus-based fertilizer.

Dilute the fertilizer to half-strength so that the plant does not get root burn from the minerals and nutrients present in the fertilizer. If you think you have applied too much fertilizer, simply flush it out by letting water flow through the potting medium and over the roots.

Coconut orchid diseases

Leaf blight

This disease manifests as brownish-red spots on the plant’s leaves, which will become bigger and rounder the more serious the disease becomes. Eventually, the leaves will turn yellow and die off one by one.

You can remedy this disease by removing the affected foliage and burning it. Avoid overwatering the plant, and make sure it is well-ventilated and gets enough light.

Southern blight

This is one of the most common coconut orchid diseases, and it is caused by fungi. It is commonly observed between May and August. It proliferates in the rainy season and in high temperatures.

To remedy this, remove the affected foliage and spray the plant with chlorothalonil while irrigating the roots.

Anthrax

This is the most common coconut orchid disease. It affects the leaves, causing black spots. The leaves will eventually turn yellow and wither.

Remove the affected leaves and burn them. Avoid overwatering the plant to reduce the chance of the disease occurring.

Scale insects

These insects are usually seen between April and October. They reproduce very quickly and will need to be addressed as soon as possible to prevent their spread to your other plants.

Use an insecticide, or you can simply spray the insects off with a strong stream of water.

Coconut orchid propagation

The coconut orchid is propagated through division. The roots of the plant can be separated with little effort, because they grow loosely. Break the plant apart into the number of new plants you wish to have.

The pseudobulbs grow on top of one another and all have their own roots, so you can use each one to grow an individual plant. The pseudobulb will grow as a thin spike, eventually filling out over time.

Plant each pseudobulb in its own five-inch pot using an airy, porous, well-draining potting medium. After a month or so, the roots will have been established nicely. You can also wrap the stem and roots in sphagnum moss to help retain moisture.

Conclusion

The coconut orchid is one of the most popular, low-maintenance orchids to care for. It requires bright, indirect light, intermediate temperatures, and slightly higher humidity than normal. Water the plant every two to three weeks in the dry season and up to five times a week in the rainy season. Use a potting medium that is airy and well-draining, and fertilize as needed.

Propagate the plant using division. Separate the pseudobulbs, each of which has its own roots, and place them in their own pots. After a month, the roots will have grown out nicely and you can now care for the plants the same way you would a regular coconut orchid.

Image: istockphoto.com / Hardt_E

Miltonia orchids and miltoniopsis orchids are often confused for one another, not only because of how similar their names sound, but also because they come from roughly the same part of the world.

For the first couple of years, after the miltoniopsis orchids were discovered, they were included under the Miltonia genus, further adding to the confusion.

Pansy orchids are actually miltoniopsis orchids, even if most people think that pansies are miltonia orchids.

In this article, we will discuss the differences between miltonia and miltoniopsis orchids, and how one can correctly tell these two genuses apart.

If you want to learn more about these plants, keep reading.

What do miltonia and miltoniopsis orchids look like?

Although these two orchid genuses have similar-sounding names and come from the same part of the world, they actually do not look that much alike.

The miltoniopsis orchids are what you know as pansy orchids, and they only have one leaf on the side of their pseudobulb. Miltonia orchids, on the other hand, have two leaves either side of their pseudobulb.

Miltonias’ pseudobulbs are far apart and more rounded, while those of miltoniopsis orchids are less round and much flatter. The latter’s pseudobulbs also tend to cluster tightly together.

Miltoniopsis flowers are showy and large, while those of miltonia orchids are more slender.

Nevertheless, both plants have beautifully striking flowers.

Miltonia orchid care

Light requirements

Miltonia orchids prefer bright, indirect light. Do not place them directly under the sun because they will get sun-damaged. If you keep the plant indoors, make sure you keep it near a north- or east-facing window. If the only available windows are letting in harsh light, you can diffuse it using a sheer curtain. During the winter, when light is scarce, use a grow light to help your plant get its recommended amount of light each day.

Temperature and humidity

These orchids do just fine at room temperature, so they will be alright when kept inside most houses. In the winter, bring the plant indoors and make sure you do not place it where it is directly in the path of warm or cold drafts. This means keeping it away from heaters and air conditioners. Also keep it away from places where cold air from cracks in doors or windows can reach it. Both warm and cold drafts can dry out your plant.

These plants are from tropical regions, so they appreciate humidity levels that are higher than normal. The inside of most homes normally has a sufficient level of humidity, but if you live in a place that is drier than most, you can mist the plant once in a while or place a pebble tray with water under its pot. You can also position the orchid near other plants that like humidity, so that they can all create a microclimate around one another. If it fits your budget, you can also purchase a humidifier to help automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

Watering requirements

There is no set schedule that you should follow when it comes to watering this plant. The most important thing is to ensure that the potting medium is never too wet or too dry.

If you neglect the orchid and forget to water it for too long, it will dry out and possibly die. On the other hand, if you give it too much water, the roots will drown and become susceptible to pathogens that cause root rot. The rot can spread to the other parts of the plant until the entire plant is affected. Another consideration to avoid overwatering is to make sure that the potting medium is airy, porous and well-draining.

Fertilizer requirements

Feed the plant once a month by mixing the fertilizer into the water that you are going to use to water the plant. In the winter, the plant will not actively grow as much, so you can reduce the frequency of fertilizing to once every two months.

Potting medium

You can use moss or bark as the main component of the plant’s potting medium. Remember that these plants are epiphytic, meaning they live on the bark of trees in their natural habitat, and rely on nutrients from the air. They are used to having air flow freely through their roots, so this should also be the case when you grow them in your home. Do not place the plant in regular soil, because it is too dense and will just result in root rot.

The most important characteristic of the potting medium should always be its ability to drain excess water well and quickly.

Miltoniopsis orchid care

Light requirements

Just like the miltonia, the miltoniopsis orchid prefers bright, indirect light only. It also needs noticeably less light than the miltonia orchid.

Place the plant near a north- or east-facing window. If the only window available provides light that is too harsh, you can use a sheer curtain to diffuse the light. During the winter, buy a grow light to help the plant get the light it needs every day.

Temperature and humidity

The temperature in most homes is usually enough for the plant, so you should not need to take any extra measures in that regard. In the winter, remember to take the plant indoors so that it is not exposed to cold temperatures, and keep it away from cold or warm drafts, such as from air conditioners and heating vents. If there are cracks around the doors or windows that are letting in cold air, this can also dry out your plant.

As long as the humidity around the plant is above 50 percent, it should be fine. If you live in a place that is drier than most, you can keep the plant from drying out by misting it once in a while, placing it on top of a pebble tray filled with water, placing it near other plants to create a microclimate, or using a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

Watering requirements

The miltoniopsis orchid likes its potting medium to dry out between waterings. In the summer, it may need to be watered as often as three times a week. In colder weather, it will only need to be watered twice a week, at most.

If you see the leaves on the plant becoming shriveled and dry, you may be underwatering it. Increase the frequency of watering if this is the case.

If you give the plant too much water or if you are watering it too often, this can lead to overwatering. Overwatering causes root rot, which is when the plant’s roots drown and die because there is constantly too much moisture in the potting medium. When the roots are dead, they become susceptible to opportunistic pathogens such as fungi and bacteria which help the rot spread faster to the rest of the plant, so that eventually the entire plant is affected and dying.

If you suspect that your plant is overwatered, remove it from the pot and check the state of the roots. Remove any brown or black roots because those are dying or dead. Use sterilized pruning shears or a knife to cut them off.

The miltoniopsis is very particular when it comes to the type of water you give it, so try to use only filtered water or rainwater. These kinds of water have minimal mineral content so they will not cause any buildup in the soil over time.

Fertilizer requirements

If you are using filtered or rainwater on the plant, you can give it fertilizer as often as once a week. During the fall and winter, when the plant is not actively growing as much, you may need to reduce the feeding to once every two weeks so that you do not end up with any mineral buildup in the potting medium or around the plant’s roots.

Potting medium

As with the miltonia orchid, miltoniopsis orchids like an airy, porous and well-draining potting medium. You can use sphagnum moss, wool mix or bark. The most important aspect is always going to be adequate drainage. Even if the plant’s roots become a little bound in the pot, that is alright; you only really need to repot it once a year.

Conclusion

The miltonia and miltoniopsis orchids are often confused with one another because the miltoniopsis orchids, or pansy orchids, were classified under the miltonia genus for a long time. This has since been changed, but most people still think of the two as the same genus.

Miltonia orchids have rounder, more spaced-apart pseudobulbs, and their flowers are more slender. They have two leaves on either side of a pseudobulb.

Miltoniopsis orchids have flatter pseudobulbs, larger flowers, and only one leaf next to their pseudobulb.

Care for both plants is similar, except that the miltoniopsis orchids are more sensitive to light and to higher temperatures.

Nevertheless, both plants produce beautifully striking flowers that will bring joy to any home.

Image: istockphoto.com / gurineb

The NJoy pothos and the Pearls and Jade pothos are two of the most popular and sought-after pothos varieties on the market. This is not only because of how beautiful they both are, but also because they are both low-maintenance and easy to grow.

To the untrained eye, these two plants may look very similar, seeing as they are both derived from the marble queen pothos, both have been bred to look cute and stunted, and both also have variegation on their leaves. But if you look closely, the NJoy has darker green variegation and whiter leaves, while the Pearls and Jade has more scattered gray, white and green blotches on its leaves.

In this article, we will discuss the differences between these two plants and all you need to know when choosing between them.

If you wish to learn more about either or both plants, keep reading.

Where did these plants come from?

Pothos NJoy

This plant was created through successful breeding with the aim of producing a pothos that had very bright variegation on its leaves. Ashish Arvind Hansoti from Mumbai, India, created the NJoy in 2002 by pairing an unnamed clone of the Marble Queen pothos plant. Since its inception almost two decades ago, several generations of stable NJoy plants have been produced.

Pearls and Jade

The Pearls and Jade pothos was also derived from the Marble Queen, in this case when a Florida research facility induced mutation in Marble Queen cultivars.

What are the differences between NJoy and the Pearls and Jade pothos?

1. Plant structure

NJoy

The NJoy does not grow very fast, and usually only reaches six to 10 inches tall with a spread of 10 to 12 inches. This can also depend on the plant’s surroundings. The branches grow out of the center of the plant, and each shoot-turned-branch can have up to 10 leaves on it. These leaves will start to appear at 20 weeks of age. The older the plant, the shorter the new branches will be.

Pearls and Jade

Structurally, there is little difference between these two plants. The Pearls and Jade is slightly smaller, growing to around 7.5 to 8.5 inches tall, and it has grooved petioles. Its leaves can grow to two inches wide and the stalk can be around eight inches long.

2. Leaves

NJoy

Compared to the Marble Queen, the NJoy has oval-shaped, broader and smaller leaves, with bright variegation. The stems of the plant are darker green and less fragile. The leaves have a creamy white background around green variegation, and it is also not uncommon to see different shades of green on one leaf. The leaves also grow closer to one another.

The texture of the upper and lower leaf surfaces are different, with the top side of the leaf being waxy and smooth and the underside feeling leathery.

Pearls and Jade

In terms of leaf structure, these resemble those of the NJoy except that they have blotches of gray, white and green on the leaves, and the background is not as bright white. The leaves are also more fragile than those of the NJoy, and feel as if they could tear very easily.

3. Blooms

Neither of these plants produces flowers, which is different from naturally-occurring pothos. Wild pothos plants produce flowers when they reach maturity, but because these plants are cultivars, they do not flower.

4. Sheaths

Neither NJoy nor Pearls and Jade have sheaths surrounding their stems, and the stems grow just fine even without the protection of sheaths. In other plants, these sheaths would become bigger as the plant grows, often turning papery and brown.

5. Color of the foliage

As mentioned above, the NJoy has a creamy white background and green variegation. The older the plant gets, the whiter the background becomes. It also helps to give the plant plenty of light if you want the white parts to be more pronounced. If you keep the plant in low light conditions, the leaves will take on more of the green color.

The Pearls and Jade has less white on its leaves, and the differences in the colors of the blotches are more varied.

How to grow these plants

Even if there are noticeable differences in the appearance of these two plants, they still come from the same mother plant, the Marble Queen, so their care and growth requirements are virtually identical.

Watering requirements

Both of these plants appreciate moisture in their growing medium. Remember that there is no set schedule that should be followed with regard to watering. Instead, the best way to know when the plants need to be watered is by touching the top two inches of soil in the pot. If the soil is dry, water the plant, but if it is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

If the foliage on the plant starts to look dry and is turning yellow or brown, you may be underwatering it. Fortunately, all you need to do is increase your watering frequency and you should have the plant back to normal in no time.

The worst mistake a plant owner can make when watering these plants is to overwater them. If the plant is starting to wilt and the leaves are turning yellow or brown, but instead of drying out they feel soft and mushy, then your plant is probably overwatered.

Overwatering can be caused by several factors. It can happen if you leave the plant outside in rainy weather, or you could be watering it more frequently than you should, or you may be using a potting medium that is not well-draining, which allows water to sit in the soil around the roots for long periods. When the roots are constantly in wet soil, they essentially drown and die, and this leads to root rot, caused by pathogens such as fungi and bacteria that attack the compromised roots. The infection will eventually spread to the rest of the plant until the entire plant is affected.

If you suspect that your plant is overwatered, remove it from the pot and wash off as much of the old soil from the roots as you can. Be gentle when you do this, because damaged roots are very fragile and you want to be able to preserve as many roots as you can so that the plant can recover well. Next, inspect the roots and look for brown or black roots. These roots are rotten and you will need to remove them using sterilized pruning shears. Spray the remaining healthy roots with fungicide and allow them to air-dry. When they are dry, take a new pot with drainage holes at the bottom and fill it with fresh potting soil that is loose and well-draining. You can add perlite or coarse sand to the soil to help it drain better. Place the plant in the new pot and make sure you adjust your watering schedule to avoid overwatering again.

Light requirements

Keep these plants where they can get lots of bright, indirect light. As mentioned above, the more light the NJoy gets, the brighter and more pronounced the white parts of the leaves become. This is not to say that you can just leave the plant out under the sun all day, as this will lead to sun damage. Instead, place the plant near a north- or east-facing window. If the only window available is letting in harsh light, place a sheer curtain over the window to diffuse the intensity of the light.

The brighter and healthier the leaves look, the more it means they are getting the right amount of light.

In the winter, when light is scarce, help your plant by using a grow light. Artificial light is just as good as sunlight for your plant, especially when sunlight is not available.

Temperature and humidity

If the plant is kept indoors, it will do just fine at room temperature, provided the temperature does not dip below 50 degrees Fahrenheit for extended periods of time. The ideal temperature, however, is anywhere between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep the plant away from parts of the house that get directly hit by cold or warm drafts, such as near an air conditioner or a heating vent. This also includes spots near doors and windows, where cold drafts slip through small cracks. Both warm and cold drafts can dry out your plants.

The Marble Queen pothos is a tropical plant, so its cultivars naturally share its humidity preferences. The humidity inside most homes is generally enough for these plants, at 50 to 70 percent, but if you live in a place that is drier than most, you may need to take measures to increase the humidity around the plant.

To do this, you can mist the plant once in a while, or you can place the pot on top of a pebble tray filled with water. As the water from the pebble tray evaporates, it will moisten the leaves and soil in the pot. You can also place the plant near other humidity-loving plants so that they can create a microclimate around each other. Lastly, if you have the means, you can buy a humidifier to automatically regulate the humidity in the room where the plant is kept.

Fertilizer requirements

Use a fertilizer designed specifically for indoor plants, and feed your plant once a month at most. These plants do not really need to be fertilized much because they usually get all they need from the soil, but if you want the plant to be the best it can be, you can fertilize it. Just make sure that you do not overfeed the plant, as this can lead to soil toxicity and a buildup of minerals in the soil. If you think you have given your plant too much fertilizer, simply flush the soil several times with plenty of water to remove any buildup.

Conclusion

The NJoy and the Pearls and Jade pothos are both cultivated from the Marble Queen pothos. The NJoy has more creamy white parts on its leaves, while the Pearls and Jade has a fairly equal distribution of gray, white and green blotches. Structurally, the two are almost identical, with very little difference in the shape and texture of their leaves. They were both bred to be stunted plants, which makes them perfect to keep indoors.

Both plants are relatively low-maintenance and easy to care for. They have beautiful, variegated leaves that light up any room, and they are both great choices as part of your decor or given as a gift. You can never go wrong when choosing either of these two plants, so if you are having a hard time making up your mind, take both these plants home. You know you want to.

Image: istockphoto.com / Firn

Pothos plants, with the scientific name Epipremnum aureum, are easy to grow and come in various foliage colors and patterns. These vines are native to the tropical regions of Southeast Asia and the Western Pacific Islands. Some of their common names include silver vine, taro vine, devil’s vine and Ceylon creeper. Although they are relatively low-maintenance, these plants are still prone to the effects of underwatering if neglected for long periods. 

Underwatered pothos: Signs and how to revive 

Signs of underwatered pothos plants 

1. The leaves are droopy, brown and wilted. 

Underwatered pothos plants tend to have droopy leaves that look lifeless and about to fall off. The leaves will turn brown and wilt, and will eventually become dry and crisp with a wrinkled appearance. These are all signs of dehydration. 

2. The soil is pulling away. 

Your pothos plants are underwatered if you notice that the soil is pulling away from the inside of the pot. This is due to a complete lack of moisture in the soil, which causes the soil to contract. You will need to reduce the length of time between waterings to prevent this from happening again. 

3. The soil is drying out too quickly. 

If the soil is drying out too fast between waterings, your plants may need to be repotted. A pot that is too small and cannot hold enough water for the plant’s requirements could impede the growth of your pothos. Ideally, you should repot the plant after the first year. 

How to revive underwatered pothos plants

To revive underwatered pothos plants, you need to give them a thorough watering and move them out of the sun. These plants should not be grown in direct sunlight, because the excess heat and light could dehydrate them, and they could get sunburnt. 

Rehydrate the soil by placing the entire pot into a container or bucket full of water for at least 30 minutes. Remove it from the water and allow it to drain thoroughly. Place it in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light while it recovers. 

Pothos plants: Care and propagation 

Pothos plants thrive when placed near a window where they can receive indirect light while avoiding chilly drafts. They should be kept at temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit, with the ideal temperature being 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. These vines grow well in high-humidity areas that mimic their native habitat, but they are also tolerant of dry air. During winter, when indoor air is dry, provide misting or a room humidifier for your pothos plants.  

Pothos plants like well-draining potting soil with a slightly acidic pH of 6.1 to 6.5, although they also tolerate higher values. Plant them in containers that are one to two inches wider than the root ball, with adequate drainage holes. 

Allow the top inch of the soil to dry out before watering your plants, and discard excess water so that the plants do not sit in waterlogged soil, as this could lead to root rot. Pothos plants are light feeders and you only need to give them a liquid houseplant fertilizer every one to three months to keep them healthy. 

Trim off long runners to keep the plants full and bushy; bare stems can be cut back to encourage new branches to grow. To keep the foliage fresh and clean, wipe the leaves with a damp cloth every few weeks. 

For rootbound plants that become droopy, remove them from their pots and repot them in pots that are one to two inches wider. Fill the spaces around the roots with fresh potting soil. 

These plants are propagated through stem cuttings. To propagate, cut at least six inches of stem before a leaf node, and submerge the stem in water. Remember to change the water every two to three weeks. Roots will develop in about two months, and you can then plant the cuttings in fresh potting soil. Be sure to grow multiple stems in the same pot to ensure lush growth. Pothos plants can also be grown through division by gently cutting the root ball into sections and repotting them in fresh soil. Make sure the pots are large enough to leave at least one to two inches of space around the root ball. 

Conclusion 

Pothos plants are easy to care for and propagate, but are also susceptible to the effects of underwatering if you forget them for too long. The most common signs of underwatering are droopy, brown and wilted leaves. To revive the plants, give them a thorough soaking in a basin or bucket for at least 30 minutes, and move them out of the sun to recover. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Tropical Borneo

When your African violet has too many leaves, especially in the center of the plant, this is known as leaf crowding, or tight crown. You may think this is a good thing at first, since it appears your African violet is just very healthy. However, this occurrence should be a cause for concern because the plant can become distressed if its leaves become too tight.

In this article, we will discuss what exactly causes leaf crowding or tight crown in African violets, and what you can do to fix this and prevent it from happening again.

What is African violet tight crown?

African violets grow outward starting from the crown. If any environmental factor changes for the plant, it can cause new growth to appear in the middle of the plant, making the crown compacted.

Look at your plant from above: if there is dense new growth in the center of the plant, you may need to remedy the situation. The small crown of tightly-bunched leaves at the very center is the actual tight crown.

What are the signs of tight crown in African violets?

It can take some time before an African violet develops a tight crown. The first sign of a problem is the slowing down of the plant’s growth over a significant period of time. You will notice the leaves on the plant becoming smaller, and they will start to become brittle and somewhat shinier than normal.

You will also notice the leaves start to curl inwards or outwards. The most telling sign, however, is when the leaves in the center become bunched up and the plant’s growth seems to have stalled completely.

What causes tight crown or leaf crowding in African violets?

Overfertilization

One of the most common causes of leaf crowding or tight crown is overfertilization, or overfeeding of the plant.

In this case, there is no leaf curling, but tight crowns will develop. The leaves become brittle and will snap and tear easily when touched. The leaves will also become rust-colored, or have rust-colored spots on them. The leaves on the outer layers will have burnt edges or will have yellow spots on them.

All the leaves on the plant will become smaller than normal and the entire plant will look smaller than before.

Because you applied too much fertilizer, there will be mineral salt deposits on the surface of the soil or on the edges and sides of the plant’s pot. Some salt crystals will form on the leaves as well.

If your plant’s tight crown is caused by too much fertilizer, fix it by first withholding fertilizer for a month.

Flush out any excess fertilizer and mineral salts by flushing the soil with water several times. Repeat this until all of the soil in the pot is drenched with water; you should see the water flowing out from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Discard the water that drains from the pot. Allow the soil to dry for a few days, then repeat the procedure two to three more times to make sure most of the excess fertilizer has been removed from the soil.

In order to loosen up the tight crown, place the plant inside a closed Ziploc bag to increase the humidity around it. Leave the plant in the bag for a month, and this increased humidity should loosen up the crown. For the entire month that the plant is in the bag, make sure you do not overwater it, and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Slowly, the crown will loosen up and the leaves will start to spread out.

You can resume fertilizing the plant, but start at half your normal dose.

Too much light

Another reason your African violet has a tight crown or leaf crowding may be too much light.

Aside from a tight crown, an African violet exposed to too much light will also have leaves that are curling inwards or outwards. The leaves will look crowded together with no space between them.

To fix this, first make sure that this is the actual cause of the plant’s problem. Do this by placing a thin tissue over the plant, blocking out most of the light. Alternatively, you can just move the plant to another spot where it will only get filtered light. Do either of these for at least a month, and if too much light really is what was causing the symptoms, the measures you took should have been sufficient to loosen the crowns up.

You can also place the plant in a Ziploc bag as discussed above.

Excessive heat

Another reason your plant has a tight crown may be overexposure to heat.

Yes, African violets can tolerate more heat than most plants, but remember that prolonged and continued exposure can still damage them.

An African violet that gets too much heat will have a tight crown surrounded by plenty of small leaves at the center of the plant.

The leaves will also curl up and in, and will start to grow closer together.

The plant’s flowers will lose color and will develop spots and streaks.

The leaves on the outer layers will become dry and crispy, and the plant’s growth will become stunted.

Save your plant by moving it to a spot where the temperature is lower than 80 degrees Fahrenheit. It may take the plant a couple of months, but the crown will loosen up as long as you refrain from exposing it to too much heat.

During the summer or when the weather has been hot and dry, water the plant a little more frequently than normal so that it does not dry out.

Compacted soil

If your plant’s soil is compacted and dense, this can also lead to a tight crown or leaf crowding.

The plant’s leaves will grow closer and crowd together, and its blooms will slow down and eventually cease completely.

You can save your plant by changing its soil. Remove any dead and damaged leaves and transfer it to a pot that has drainage holes at the bottom, using soil that is well-draining, airy and porous.

You can also use the Ziploc trick to keep the plant in a humid environment for a month so that it can recover quickly.

Cyclamen mite infestation

If your African violet has a cyclamen mite infestation, this can also lead to tight crown or leaf crowding. 

The leaves at the center will be small, crowded,  brittle and stiff, and will have a lighter color than the rest of the plant’s leaves. They will also become twisted, distorted and hairier than normal, and will look duller than before the infestation.

If the leaves curl upwards, it is probably a cyclamen mite infestation, but if they are turned inwards, it is most likely a broad mite infestation.

The center of the plant will look discolored and the flower buds will be close together and much smaller in size.

Save your African violet by first confirming that these changes in your plant are due to a mite infestation. The mites are very small, so you might have a hard time spotting them in the early stages of the infestation. They like to hide in the nooks and crannies of the misshapen leaves or in the middle of the crown. Use a magnifying glass to look for small, spider-like insects on the leaves.

If the infestation is severe and has spread to many of your African violets, you are better off disposing of the plants and the soil, washing the pots and starting over with new plants. Make sure you disinfect the entire area where the African violets were growing.

If you are lucky enough to catch the infestation in its early stages, you can use neem oil to help control it. Before you start treating the plant, isolate it from your other plants so that the mites cannot spread to them. Apply neem oil to the plant’s leaves and stems once a week for a month to make sure all of the mites have been killed before you bring the plant anywhere near your healthy plants.

Conclusion

If an African violet has too many leaves or when the leaves have started to crowd in the center of the plant, the plant has a condition called tight crown or leaf crowding.

Tight crown or leaf crowding is caused by changes in the plant’s living conditions, such as overfertilization, too much light, compacted soil, excessive heat or a mite infestation.

As long as you return the plant’s living conditions back to the ideal, the tight crown should loosen up and the plant will go back to growing normally.

Image: istockphoto.com / Mikhail Melanin

African violets have green leaves and bright flowers when they are healthy and growing well. These plants are native to the rainforests of Tanzania, where they grow in very specific conditions that may be hard to replicate in other parts of the world. Because the U.S. climate is too unpredictable to grow African violets properly, they are only grown indoors here.

If the leaves on your African violet are turning brown, it is because an environmental factor is causing the plant stress, and the stress is causing the leaves to discolor.

The most common causes of browning African violet leaves are overfeeding, low humidity, poor air circulation, and overwatering.

In this article, we will look further into each of these causes, and discuss how to remedy your plant’s browning leaves.

What causes African violet leaves to turn brown?

1. Overfeeding

One of the most common mistakes made by African violet growers is giving their plant too much fertilizer. These plants are very sensitive to the effects of fertilizer, so you should use it sparingly, or at least use a gentle solution.

The most obvious symptom of overfeeding is burnt the leaf tips, or the browning of the leaves’ edges.

You may also notice the buildup of mineral salts on the plant itself, as well as on the soil and the rim of the pot. The leaves will eventually become wilted and brittle, and if the buildup reaches toxic levels, it can kill the plant.

Remedy the situation by repeatedly flushing the soil in the pot with lukewarm water until the excess water flows out from the bottom of the pot. When about five cups’ worth of water has drained from the bottom of the pot, that should be enough.

Repeat this procedure every couple of months to remove any mineral salt buildup from the soil.

Avoid fertilizing the plant for a few months until you are sure that you have removed most of the buildup. The next time you fertilize it, dilute the fertilizer in water to less than half-strength so that the possibility of build up is reduced.

2. Low humidity

Because the African violets’ natural habitat is the Tanzanian rainforest, they are accustomed to relatively high humidity. Low humidity and dry air are these plants’ mortal enemies, and they need humidity between 70 and 80 percent to remain healthy.

They can tolerate humidity levels in the 60s, but never go below 50% because this will be detrimental to the plant.

When the plant is surrounded by dry air, it will use up the moisture in its leaves faster than its roots can absorb water to make up for this. This will cause the leaves to dry out and turn brown.

Remedy the situation by increasing the ambient humidity around the plant. You can do this by grouping the plant with other plants that also like high humidity. If these plants are close to one another, they will create a microclimate that benefits all the plants in the group.

You can also use a pebble tray filled with water and place it underneath the plant’s pot. As the water evaporates, it will slightly moisten the soil in the pot and will be absorbed by the plant’s leaves.

Alternatively, if you have the money to spare, you can buy a humidifier to increase the humidity in the room where you keep your plant.

3. Poor air circulation

Another reason your African violet’s leaves are turning brown may be poor air circulation.

This goes hand in hand with humidity, because humid conditions require good air circulation to prevent the fungal growth that is encouraged by the moisture in the air.

Remedy poor air circulation around the plant by moving it to a spot where the air flow is better and more consistent. If you prefer the plant to stay where it is, you can improve the air circulation by opening doors and windows near the plant for several hours a day.

Make sure the drafts entering the house are not too strong, or too cold or hot. These drafts can also cause browning and curling of the leaves.

4. Overwatering

When the soil in the plant’s pot is too wet, it will cause brown spots and drooping leaves on your African violet.

Letting the plant stand in waterlogged soil can cause the roots to die and decay. The compromised roots will become easy targets for opportunistic pathogens, causing the rot to spread faster to the rest of the plant. Once the stem is affected, the leaves will become soft and mushy and the plant will die.

There are many factors that can lead to overwatering. You may be giving the plant more water than it needs every time you water it, watering it more frequently than it needs, using soil that is too dense and poorly-draining, using a pot without drainage holes, or watering the plant at night when the soil takes longer to dry out than during the day.

Save an overwatered African violet by changing the soil and the pot, and removing any rotten parts of the roots.

Also learn how to tell when you should water the plant. Touch the soil first, and if it is dry, water the plant. If it is still moist, wait one or two days before checking again.

Conclusion

The leaves on your African violet are turning brown because there is a change in the plant’s living conditions that is causing it stress, leading to the browning of its foliage.

The most common causes of browning African violet leaves are overfeeding, low humidity, poor air circulation and overwatering. The sooner you correct these problems, the faster your African violet will recover from this leaf discoloration.

Image: istockphoto.com / Nadya So

If the leaves on your African violet are drooping, it is because there are one or more environmental factors that are not optimal for the plant.

It is possible that the leaves are drooping because you have just brought it home from the store, you are not watering it properly, or you are giving it too much fertilizer.

In this article, we will discuss the different reasons the leaves on your plant may be drooping, and how to solve each problem.

So, if you are currently struggling with drooping African violets, just keep reading.

Why are my African violet’s leaves drooping?

1. Stress from moving

One of the reasons your African violet’s leaves are drooping may be that it is still adjusting to a new environment. If you have just bought the plant and brought it back to your house, remember that the conditions in your house are different from those in the greenhouse or nursery where the plant was growing before.

Greenhouses and nurseries have ideal growing conditions for plants. The temperature and humidity are optimal, they are watered correctly, the light levels are just right, and they are fertilized just enough. Remember that these plants are grown to be the best they can possibly be in order for them to be sold quickly.

The moment you remove the plant from the nursery, the temperature and humidity will  be different and these environmental changes will have an immediate effect on the plant. No matter how hard you try to replicate the conditions of the greenhouse, you will never get it quite right, unless you build your own greenhouse on your property. The best you can do is create conditions in your home as close as possible to the growing conditions in the greenhouse.

The environmental changes will cause the plant stress, which is why the leaves start to droop.

There really is not much you can do in this situation, aside from providing the best possible care for the plant as it adjusts. Over time, it will adapt to its new surroundings, provided the conditions are not too far removed from those of its natural habitat.

2. Improper watering

One of the most common reasons your African violet’s leaves may be drooping is that you are not watering it correctly.

Improper watering techniques can cause a host of problems in African violets.

If you are underwatering the plant, the soil will become too dry and, because the plant is not getting enough moisture, the leaves will start to droop.

Save an underwatered plant by flushing the soil with water until the excess flows out from the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Make sure all of the soil in the pot is wet so all of the roots have access to water.

If you overwater the plant, this can also lead to drooping leaves. When the soil around the plant’s roots are always waterlogged, the roots will drown and die. Opportunistic pathogens can then take advantage of the situation and exacerbate the roots’ decay. The rot will travel up the plant until the crown root is also affected. Because the roots are badly damaged, they can no longer effectively transfer nutrients and water from the soil into the plant, and the plant will become malnourished and waterlogged. The leaves will become soft, mushy and droopy.

Save your overwatered plant by checking the roots for rot. Remove the plant from the soil and shake or wash off as much soil as you can from the roots. Inspect all of the roots and remove any brown or black roots using sterilized scissors. Spray the healthy white roots with fungicide and let the plant dry out on a paper towel.

After a few hours, when the roots are dry, replant the African violet in a pot with drainage holes using fresh, well-draining soil. 

Water your plant only when the soil is dry to the touch. If the soil is still damp when you touch it, wait one or two days and check it again.

3. Too much fertilizer

Giving your plant too much fertilizer can also cause its leaves to droop. The buildup of mineral salts in the soil leads to fertilizer scorching and burning. This manifests as the browning of the leaf tips and edges. If the buildup of mineral salts reaches toxic levels, it can kill the plant.

The mineral salts will build up on the petioles and stem of the plant, as well as in the soil and around the rim of the pot.

Save your plant by flushing the soil several times with lukewarm water until about four or five cups’ worth of water has flowed out of the pot’s drainage holes.

Repeat this process every few weeks, even if you do not see buildup, as long as you are fertilizing the plant. Do not fertilize the plant for the next few months until you are sure that all of the fertilizer has been flushed out. If you do resume fertilizing, make sure you use a diluted and gentle solution on the plant.

Conclusion

The leaves on your African violet will start to droop if any environmental factor causes the plant stress. To fix the problem, you need to figure out which factor is causing the drooping.

The most common causes of drooping African violet leaves are stress from moving, incorrect watering, or too much fertilizer.

As long as you provide the plant with growing conditions as close as possible to those of their natural habitat, the drooping should correct itself and your plant should get back to normal.

Image: istockphoto.com / O_Lypa

If the leaves on your African violet are turning soft, it is probably because you are overwatering it. If you give the plant too much water, it will absorb more than it needs, causing the leaves and stems to become soft.

 If the soil around the plant’s roots is waterlogged or soggy, the roots will die and this can lead to root rot. When the rot makes its way up to the rest of the plant, this also causes the leaves to become soft.

In this article, we will discuss more about why African violet leaves turn soft and what you can do to remedy this. So, if you are experiencing this problem, just keep reading.

Why are my African violet’s leaves turning soft?

The most common reason African violet leaves turn soft is that the plant is getting more water than it needs.

Overwatering is one of the most common mistakes made by new plant owners because they have not established a watering schedule that works for the plant. They may be giving it more water than it needs at each watering, or they may be watering it more frequently than it needs. Overwatering can also happen if the plant is left outside in the rain.

Either way, if the plant’s soil is constantly soggy and waterlogged and is not allowed to dry out between waterings, the plant will be forced to absorb more and more water, and the leaves will become soft due to the excess moisture.

Roots will also suffocate in boggy soil, because air and oxygen can no longer reach them. They will eventually die and the dead roots will begin to rot. This rot will travel up to the root crown, and from there up the stem and into the leaves. This will also cause the leaves to soften. Root rot is exacerbated by the presence of opportunistic pathogens, such as fungi and bacteria, that will attack the plant’s compromised roots.

Another factor that contributes to overwatering is the soil type. If the soil is poorly-draining or compacted, this will cause water to remain in the soil for longer than necessary.

Furthermore, if you are using a pot that has no drainage holes, the excess water will not be able to flow out and will remain under the soil where it will keep the soil and roots wet for longer.

What are the other signs of an overwatered African violet?

Now that we know that soft African violet leaves are due to overwatering, we will discuss the other signs you need to look out for if you suspect overwatering.

1. Curled leaves

If the leaves on your plant have begun to curl, this can be due to overwatering. This is more apparent when the temperature of the water is too cold.

Cold water is not good for the roots of the plant, and this can affect the leaves even if only the roots had direct contact with the cold water. Make sure you only use room-temperature water when watering your African violet.

2. Wrinkled leaves

If you notice that the leaves on your African violet have started to wrinkle, that means the plant has been overwatered for some time. Wrinkled leaves indicate that the plant can no longer absorb water effectively because the roots have been compromised to an alarming degree.

They have suffered significant damage and are no longer effectively absorbing water and nutrients from the soil, affecting the entire plant.

3. Yellowing leaves

Apart from turning soft, the leaves on an overwatered African violet will also start to discolor.

This change in color is due to moisture stress. If your plant’s leaves have changed color, it is best to also check the rest of the plant for signs of overwatering. You may need to check the roots, too, in case they have rotted.

4. Wilted leaves

Wilted leaves on an African violet can be indicative of a pest infestation or underwatering, but if the leaves are wilted while the soil is damp and there is no presence of pests, then overwatering is the culprit.

Just like the other leaf symptoms, wilting is also due to the roots’ inability to properly absorb water and nutrients.

5. Soft and mushy stems

Aside from soft leaves, overwatering an African violet can also lead to soft stems. Compared with a healthy plant, whose stems are firm and strong, an overwatered plant’s stems will feel mushy when you squeeze them.

Soft stems are more common in cases where the rot is caused by a fungal infection that has traveled up the roots and into the stems.

6. Brown spots on the leaves

The brown spots on the leaves are due to edema, or a build-up of excess water in the leaves. These wart-like lesions can also be traced back to overwatering. They are also an eyesore on the leaves and cannot be removed, but you can remove the damaged leaves to preserve the plant’s aesthetic.

7. Mold on the soil

Another sign that points to overwatering is visible mold growing on top of the soil. The mold will look like white dots on the uppermost layer of the soil.

Fortunately, this mold will not attack your plant; it will only grow on moist soil. Try to remove the mold as soon as you see it. You can use a hydrogen peroxide solution made of one part hydrogen peroxide to five parts water.

8. Root rot

This is the most serious consequence of overwatering, as we discussed earlier. This can also lead to crown rot, which is when the root rot, possibly hastened by pathogens, moves towards the crown of the root system and causes it to rot as well. When the crown of the root is affected this means the plant has even less chance of recovery, because almost all of the roots are now defective.

How to save an overwatered African violet

First, you will need to inspect the entire plant to assess the extent of the damage. Check whether the leaves are soft and mushy, if they have become discolored, or if there are brown lesions on them.

If the leaves have brown spots but the stems are still firm, the plant is not too badly affected yet and will take less time to recover than one that does have mushy stems.

Next, remove any brown, yellow, or wilted leaves and flowers. Do not remove the curled leaves, because these may just have curled due to the water temperature and will still be able to recover. By removing the damaged leaves and other foliage, you are relieving the plant from the stress of keeping these leaves alive. Once they are removed, the plant can focus its resources and energy toward healing itself.

Make sure you wash your hands properly before pinching the leaves off the plant. Support the stem of the leaf with your other hand so that you can pull it off more easily. You can also use a pair of scissors to cut the leaves off; just make sure that they are sterilized.

Next, check the soil in the pot. If there is mold on the top layer, remove it. Check whether the soil is compacted or dense. Place rocks or broken terracotta pot pieces at the bottom of the pot and make sure the pot itself has sufficient drainage holes at the bottom. These factors will help with the drainage of excess water from the soil and from the pot.

While checking the soil, also remove the plant. Shake and wash off as much soil as you can so you can inspect the roots closely. The roots will be delicate, so be gentle. Brown or black roots are rotten and should be removed. Using sterilized scissors, cut them all off until only healthy, white roots remain. Spray the healthy roots with fungicide and let the plant dry out on a paper towel. 

After the plant has dried out, you can repot it. Use fresh soil and a pot with drainage holes at the bottom. Do not water the soil just yet, because fresh soil is usually quite moist as it is. Water the plant a week after repotting it to give the roots enough time to recover and to be able to absorb water properly.

The best way to avoid overwatering in the future is to check the soil first. Touch the top two inches of soil and, if they are dry, water the plant. If the soil is still damp, wait one or two days and check it again.

Conclusion

If an African violet’s leaves are becoming soft, it is most probably due to overwatering. You are either giving the plant too much water per watering, watering it more frequently than necessary, using soil that is compacted or dense, or using a pot that does not have drainage holes at the bottom.

Save your overwatered plant by checking the roots and making sure all the rotten parts are removed before repotting it in fresh soil, in a pot that has drainage holes.

Avoid overwatering by making sure you only water the plant when the soil is dry to the touch. If the soil is still damp, wait a few days and check it again. Once you have figured out how to properly water your plant, you should have no problem with overwatering in the future.

Image: istockphoto.com / Simone Madeo

An African violet chimera’s flowers appear in a pinwheel stripe design which is usually a combination of two different colors. The different-colored stripes are the result of two different genetic makeups, so these different sections of color have cells with different genetic components. These differences are very apparent when they appear side by side on the plant’s petals.

The chimeras started out as genetic mutations, but they are now bred deliberately because of the beautiful color patterns that result.

In this article, we will discuss how African violet chimeras come about, and how to propagate them.

What are African violet chimera flowers?

African violet chimera flowers are the result of a genetic mutation that causes two different colors to appear in a radial or pinwheel design on the petals of the plant’s flowers. The bi-color pattern repeats itself on each lobe of the petal.

Every flower will have alternating stripes of these two colors, resulting in a design that is coveted by many plant owners.

What causes chimera flowers?

As we mentioned above, chimeras occur naturally due to a genetic mutation resulting in bi-colored, color-edged or fantasy flowers.

These colors result from different genetic materials in the plant’s actual tissue. In chimera flowers, the tissue has two cell layers. The first layer of cells is responsible for the color of the flower, while the second layer of cells is responsible for the color of the stripes. The color difference between the bloom and the stripe can be very noticeable, or they can just be different hues of the same color.

A cross section of the stem from a chimera bloom displays the cells of the mother plant on the outer layer, and the mutated cells on the inner, second layer.

How to propagate African violet chimera plants?

African violets are very easily propagated through leaf cuttings, resulting in plants that have a genetic makeup identical to that of the parent plant. This is because the genetic makeup of the cells in the leaf cutting is identical to that found throughout the plant.

Chimeras are different, however, because not all of their individual cells are genetically identical. This means that the plants that will grow from the cutting will not be the same as the parent plant.

‘Chimera’ is a term used to describe those varieties whose blooms have a pinwheel design. These plants cannot be replicated by leaf cuttings. If you want to propagate actual chimera African violets, use the following method instead.

First, take the crown from the middle of the plant. Do this by using a sterilized razor or knife to cut the crown away from the plant. Do this carefully, because if it is done correctly the crown can be re-rooted. Make sure there are still leaves remaining on the parent plant.

You now have a parent plant with the crown removed, but some leaves still attached. Care for it as you would any African violet, and remove any bloom stalk should one appear. Soon enough, suckers should start to appear in the decrowned plant. This will take somewhere between two to three months. The suckers will look like small plantlets on top of and around the stump left after removing the crown. When these suckers get big enough, they can be removed to make new plants of their own.

To remove a sucker from the stump, use a sterilized razor blade or knife and slice off a sucker that you think is big enough to plant on its own. Remove as many viable suckers as you can.

Do not throw away the stump, because it can still grow more suckers to be harvested after a few more weeks. These suckers have a higher chance of growing a plant that is genetically identical to the parent chimera plant, especially compared with those grown from a leaf or the suckers that grow from beneath the leaves or soil.

Next, it is time to root the sucker. To do this, place soil mix in a small pot, spray a little water onto the soil and make a tiny hole in the soil using the tip of a pencil. Push the sucker into the hole gently and press on the soil around the base of the sucker.

Place the pot with the sucker inside a Ziploc bag or in a clear covered container. This is to help increase the humidity around the plant as well as to protect it from pests and insects. Place the bag or container in a spot where the light is bright but will not hit the plant directly.

After three to four weeks, the sucker should have developed and established roots. You may then remove the plant from the container or plastic bag. Care for it as you would any African violet plantlet and, if you are lucky and did everything correctly, you will have properly reproduced an African violet chimera plant.

Just remember that not all of these suckers will produce a chimera plant identical to the parent plant, so temper your expectations. In case none of the suckers results in a chimera plant, make sure you root the crown from the parent plant, because that will definitely become a chimera true to the parent.

This method of producing suckers can be used on any African violet variety, but it is definitely much more time consuming than growing from leaf cuttings or using the suckers from the soil or under the leaves. In short, there is no reason to use this technique on non-chimera African violets unless you are just curious to give it a try.

Conclusion

African violet chimera flowers are the result of a genetic mutation. Their petals and stems have outer layers that are true to the color of the parent plant’s bloom, and a second, inner layer that is genetically different from the mother plant, resulting in the chimera’s signature pinwheel striped pattern.

These plants can be propagated through leaf cuttings, but this will result in a plant with a single colored bloom because it will only be identical to half of the parent plant’s genetic makeup. In order to grow identical chimera plants, you will have to remove the crown of the plant and wait for suckers to grow on the stump of the crown. Do not forget to plant the crown you removed, because this is guaranteed to produce an identical chimera.

When the suckers have grown out, you can remove them from the stump and grow them in individual pots. There is no guarantee that all the suckers will grow into chimeras, but this is the method that is most likely to produce chimeras, besides planting the crown itself.

Image: istockphoto.com / Natalia Terenteva

African violets are popular perennial houseplants that produce attractive clusters of purple, pink, white or blue flowers. These pretty plants are native to regions of eastern Africa. They prefer medium to bright, indirect light and just enough water to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Read on for some helpful information about the correct watering practices for your African violets. 

How often should you water African violets?

Rather than follow a set schedule, the best way to know when your African violets need watering is to test the soil with your finger. If the top layer of soil feels dry against your fingertips, it is an indication that you should water the plants. 

African violets may require more or less water depending on the type of potting mix you use, as well as on your local weather conditions. Hot weather makes the soil absorb moisture more quickly, and this means you need to water more frequently. Inversely, during winter the soil will absorb less moisture and you will need to reduce your watering. 

Flush the soil thoroughly with water at least every six weeks to reduce the buildup of harmful salts. 

How to water your African violets?

The proper way to water your plants is from the bottom, to avoid wetting the leaves. This will prevent the development of spots on the leaves, which happens if they are exposed to sunlight when wet. Spots on the leaves may also indicate that your plants have a fungal infection, in which case you should improve their air circulation and ensure that they have sufficient soil drainage.

To water from the bottom, place the plants in a tray or in the kitchen sink and submerge them in room-temperature water for at least 30 minutes. When the top of the soil turns dark and moist, the plants have had enough water. This method also increases the humidity in the plants’ environment. 

How much should you water your African violets?

Ideally, you should give your plants about an inch of water. Submerge the pots in a container or sink with said amount of water and remove them after 20 minutes, or when the potting mix is moist. Do not allow the pots to stand in water for too long, as this could invite root rot. 

See to it that the soil is moist from top to bottom each time you water the plants. It is important that the soil is not overly soggy after watering, so that soil aeration can still take place and the roots can have access to oxygen. Waterlogged soil also encourages the growth of root rot. 

What type of water should you use?

The best water to use for your African violets is rainwater or filtered water.  Avoid using tap water because it contains chlorine that could damage the plants. If there is no other water available but tap water, let it stand overnight in a bowl so that the chlorine can dissipate. 

Use room-temperature water because these plants are sensitive to temperature changes. Cold water will chill the roots and the leaves will curl down. Soft water should also be avoided, as it diminishes the plants’ ability to absorb water and nutrients. 

To make sure that the plants receive the right amount of water, a self-watering device is ideal. Check the soil every other day to get the most out of your self-watering device. This can also increase the humidity around your African violets. 

It is also important to monitor and flush the soil to avoid any build-up of fertilizer salt. 

Conclusion 

African violets are popular perennials, native to eastern Africa, that produce small, pretty flowers. When it comes to their watering requirements, they like just enough water to keep their soil moist but not soggy. How often you water your plants will depend on the soil type and your local climate. The best rule to follow is to check the soil with your fingers. If the soil feels dry against your fingertips, it is time to water your plants.

Image: istockphoto.com / ChamilleWhite

African violets, with the scientific name Saintpaulia, are popular houseplants with flowers of varying colors and shapes. These perennials are native to the higher-altitude areas of eastern Africa, and have thick, hairy leaves arranged in clusters around the base of the plant. In this article, we will get to know more about these charming blooms and their size categories. 

How big do African violets get?

African violets can get as big as 16 inches in diameter or more, especially if they are given the right care and attention. These plants are categorized into four sizes, as follows:

1. Large 

Large plants have a diameter of 16 inches or more across a single crown when fully mature. The flowers can grow up to three inches across the petals, while a single leaf can grow up to six inches long. 

2. Standard 

Standard plants can grow from eight to 16 inches in diameter across a single crown when fully mature. The flowers can grow up to two inches across the petals, and a single leaf blade can grow up to three inches in length. 

3. Semi-miniature 

Semi-miniature African violets measure six to eight inches in diameter across the crown. Their flowers grow up to 1.5 inches across the petals, while the leaf blades will be up to two inches in length. 

4. Miniature 

These plants have a diameter of up to six inches across a single crown when fully mature. The flowers could grow up to .75 inches across the petals, and a single leaf blade could grow up to one inch in length. Certain varieties are called micro-minis, and these have a diameter of just three inches or less. The flowers and leaves are also much smaller in size compared to the others. 

African violet plant care

African violets thrive in bright sunlight, which helps them produce more beautiful flowers as well as healthy stems and leaves. If there is no direct sunlight, these plants can stay on a windowsill facing the east, west or south. Ideally, the chosen spot should have sufficient light but without the heat.  

Growing them under grow lights is also ideal. The rule of thumb is to place these lights at least 12 to 18 inches above the plant for at least 14 hours daily. Interestingly, these plants also require at least eight hours of darkness daily to be able to produce flowers. 

African violets require moisture, but make sure that you only water them when the soil surface is dry. The soil should be well soaked, but when you pick up the pot it should not feel too heavy. This means that any excess water has drained properly out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. Use only room-temperature water, because cold water could shock the roots, and allow the plant to sit in the water for at least 30 minutes.

Make sure that the water does not get on the leaves, as this could result in water spots. 

Another watering method, and one which can help prevent overwatering, is the wick method. Create a wick using absorbent fiber such as string, shoelace or twine. Insert one end of this wick into the pot’s drainage hole and up into the soil. Position the plant above a reservoir of water and submerge the other end of the wick into the water. The wick will draw moisture from the reservoir up into the potting soil. 

Well-draining soil is ideal for African violets. It should allow for air and water circulation and should be slightly acidic. Because soil can carry diseases, pests and weed seeds, it is always best to sterilize it before using it. You could steam the soil over water for at least 30 minutes, or heat the soil in the oven at 180 degrees for 30 minutes. The ideal soil mix for these plants consists mainly of peat with at least 30% to 50% perlite or vermiculite. 

Protect your plants from pests by spraying them with soapy water to control or eradicate Cyclamen mites and mealybugs. If you see pests on your plants, you can dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and wipe them off with it, or you may opt for insecticidal soap. Isolate new plants for at least two weeks before introducing them to your home, and check for any signs of pests before allowing them to come into contact with your other plants. 

African violets are easily propagated from the leaves of existing plants. Simply remove a healthy leaf from the center of the plant, cutting it at a 45-degree angle to about one-half inch in length. Place the leaf into a small container with a soil mix containing vermiculite, and make sure the soil is moist. 

Label the container, cover it with a clear plastic bag and place it in a well-lit spot with indirect sunlight. New plants should begin to develop within 12 weeks. 

Conclusion 

African violets are common houseplants because of their appealing blooms. These perennials are native to areas of East Africa, and can grow as big as 16 inches in diameter, especially if they are well-cared of. These plants are categorized into four sizes, namely large, standard, semi-miniature and miniature.

Image: istockphoto.com / Meindert van der Haven

African violets are firm favorites among plant growers because of their attractive flowers. Although these popular houseplants are relatively low-maintenance, their dark-green, hairy leaves will be susceptible to rot if conditions are too humid for them. There are also several environmental factors that could cause the leaves to curl, the most common of which we will discuss in this article. 

Why are my African violet leaves curling?

1. The plants were exposed to direct light. 

A common reason for curling leaves in African violets is exposure to full sun or direct light. These plants prefer bright but indirect light, and too much direct light can lead to scorching, curling and discoloration of the leaves. 

If you suspect that the leaves are curling due to too much direct light, transfer your plants to a shadier spot where they can still get bright light, but where the light is less intense. 

2. The plants are getting too little light.

African violet leaves could also curl because of insufficient light. The leaves will curl upward in low-light conditions, regardless of whether they are grown indoors or outdoors. Some plants may actively grow toward the nearest light source; this is called etiolation and is characterized by elongated stems and leaves. 

Transfer your plants to a spot where they can get more light daily, or simply use a grow light. These plants need a minimum of six hours of bright, indirect light daily to prevent curling leaves and to grow properly.

3. The plants have a pest infestation. 

Pests like scales, spider mites and mealybugs feed on plants and drain their nutrients, leaving them dehydrated and causing the leaves to curl. You can confirm the presence of pests if you notice little white spots or dots on the leaves. 

To get rid of these pests, spray the plants with insecticidal soap or neem oil, preferably at night. Isolate the treated plants to avoid the spread of pests to your other plants. 

4. The plants are overwatered. 

Overwatering is a common culprit of curling leaves. If you notice the leaves curling downward on your African violet, this could be an indication that the soil is waterlogged or is not draining sufficiently. To prevent the leaves curling from overwatering, water your plants only when the top few inches of soil are dry. The deeper soil will still be slightly moist, and you do not need to worry that you may have overwatered the plants. 

5. Some plants have naturally curling leaves.

Some varieties of African violets have naturally curling leaves, and this is something you do not need to worry about.  

6. It is due to root rot. 

African violet leaves may start to droop and curl downward if the plant has developed root rot. The leaves may also turn brown and become mushy, as might the stems. The color of the leaves will start to fade, and the leaves will lose their firmness, becoming soft, droopy and wilted. 

The best action in the case of root rot is to transfer the plant to a new pot, using fresh, well-draining potting mix. While transplanting it, check the roots and remove any that are brown, black or soft, as these are rotten. If all of the roots have rotted, it may be too late to save the plant.

African violet plant care

African violets thrive in slightly moist soil. Use room-temperature water when watering them, and avoid splashing water on the leaves since they are susceptible to rot.  It is therefore best always to water the plants from the bottom. The leaves can be cleaned with a small, soft brush to remove dirt. 

Most varieties prefer warm conditions, preferably 65 degrees Fahrenheit, although some can handle colder temperatures. During winter, keep the plants indoors and away from drafty windows. 

Transfer the plants to larger pots as they grow, although keeping them somewhat root-bound could encourage them to produce more flowers. You may opt to replant them only once some leaves start to wilt.  

Fertilize your plants at least every two weeks with high-phosphorus plant food. However, you should only do this during the growing seasons of spring and summer. Remember that over-fertilizing could harm your plants. 

These plants are prone to invasion by cyclamen mites, which are hard to remove completely. You may have to dispose of the infected plants, and nearby plants should be isolated to prevent the spread of infestation. The plants are also susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew, root rot and blight. 

Conclusion 

African violets, native to eastern Africa, are popular houseplants because of their attractive flowers. Although they are generally low-maintenance, their leaves may curl if certain environmental conditions are not optimal for them. These include too little or too much light, overwatering or root rot.  However, it is important to remember that some varieties of African violets have naturally drooping leaves, in which case there is nothing to worry about. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Iurii Garmash

Daylilies are flowering perennials consisting of approximately 15 species. These plants, with the botanical name Hemerocallis, are native to Asian and Eastern Asian countries, including Korea, Japan and China. They have long-stalked clusters of bell-shaped flowers in varying shades of yellow and red. Like most plants, daylilies are susceptible to root rot if left to stand in soggy soil, and this can kill your plants if you do not identify and address the problem in time. Read on to learn about the signs of root rot, and how to remedy this problem. 

Daylily root rot: Symptoms 

One of the most common symptoms of root rot in daylilies is the change in the color of their leaves, from green to yellow. This affects the whole leaf, from the bottom to the tip. There are no spots or streaks on the leaves, and the discoloration can spread to affect almost all the foliage on the plant. 

Other root rot symptoms include the following:

• A gradual decline in the plant’s health
• Stunted growth 
• Small, pale leaves 
• Branch dieback
• The appearance of cankers or sunken, dead areas 

Causes of daylily root rot 

Armillaria root rot fungus 

One of the causes of daylily root rot is the Armillaria root rot fungus, a soil-borne pathogen that affects woody and herbaceous plants. The symptoms are similar to those of drought stress and include poor plant growth and yellowing leaves.  

The causal organisms, or pathogens, of the Armillaria root rot disease produce gilled mushrooms during the fall, at the base of infected plants and on shallow roots. These brown mushrooms grow in clusters and have a ring around their stalks. 

Sclerotium fungus 

Another cause of daylily root rot is a fungus called Sclerotium. Symptoms of a Sclerotium infection include the presence of cottony growth over the affected areas, and a darkened, rotting stem. This fungus can lie dormant in the soil for long periods, so if you have infected plants they should be transplanted to fresh, healthy soil, and all of the affected soil removed and discarded. 

How to fix daylily root rot

1. Check the plants.

If your plants have drooping, yellow leaves and you suspect root rot, you will need to check the whole plant thoroughly. You can diagnose this disease by removing the plants from their pots and inspecting the roots. If the roots are wet, brown and mushy, they are rotting and you need to take immediate action. 

2. Clean the roots. 

Remove as much soil as possible, as gently as you can, and cut away the affected roots with sterile scissors or shears. Gently wash the remaining healthy roots, making sure there is no infected soil remaining on them. 

3. Repot the plants. 

Once you have removed the affected roots, repot the plants using fresh soil in a new pot with proper drainage. If you would rather re-use the same pot, make sure you clean it well. Prune the tops of the plants so that there are fewer leaves for the remaining roots to support.

4. Place the plants in a bright spot. 

Put the plants in a bright area and water only when the top layer of soil is dry. Your plants will start to anchor themselves and return to their healthy state in just a few weeks. 

How to prevent daylily root rot

To prevent daylily root rot, you need to ensure proper drainage for your plants. The pots should have drainage holes so that excess water can drain off, and you should adjust your watering schedule according to the weather and the season. Avoid sporadic watering, as this can damage your plants. If the soil and the roots do not have enough time to dry out between waterings, this could lead to root rot. 

Always check the soil before watering your plants and do not water unless the top two inches of soil are already dry. You should loosen up the soil to aerate it and allow for an even distribution of water and a good flow of oxygen. This prevents moisture buildup around the roots. 

Conclusion 

Daylilies are perennial flowering plants native to Asian and East Asian countries including Japan, Korea and China. When left to stand in wet soil, these flowering plants can be susceptible to root rot, which is commonly caused by fungi such as Armillaria and Sclerotium. The common signs of root rot in daylilies include discolored foliage, stunted growth, branch dieback and a gradual decline in the plant’s overall health.

Image: istockphoto.com / Oksana Akhtanina

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Propagating your own plants is one of the most rewarding and cost-effective ways to add more plants to your garden, and it is relatively easy to do successfully.

There is more than one way to propagate Phalaenopsis orchids: you can either do it through keikis, or through head or stem cuttings.

In this article, we will discuss both methods of propagation, so if you are considering propagating your Phalaenopsis orchids, then keep reading.

What is orchid propagation?

Before we dive into the different methods of propagation, let us first discuss what propagation actually is.

Propagation is a process of reproducing multiple plants from a single parent plant by taking a cutting from that plant and planting the cutting in its own growing medium, or by dividing the plant in half and then planting both halves.

Propagation is an asexual form of plant reproduction, which means that you are essentially cloning the primary plant and the two plants will have identical characteristics and features.

Plant enthusiasts propagate because it is an easy way to add more plants to their collection, and it is also an effective way of keeping plants a certain size and not having them grow to unmanageable sizes. Gardeners also love the fact that they can essentially create clones of plants. This is beneficial for those that have plants with unique or spectacular blooms that they wish to reproduce.

Is there a difference between propagation and raising an orchid from seed?

Yes, there is a difference, because using a seed to grow an orchid is sexual reproduction. Two plants cross-pollinated for the seeds to be produced, and this creates an entirely new plant with its own unique sets of characteristics that come from both parent plants. You can raise orchids from seed, but it can be challenging and can take some time before they become fully grown.

Propagation is much easier and results in full-grown plants in a much shorter span of time. The propagator will also know what the plant will look like, because they are aware of what the parent plant is like. It is simply a more straightforward method overall.

How do Phalaenopsis orchids reproduce?

There is a popular belief that the cultivation and reproduction of orchids is complicated and difficult, but this is not always the case. These orchids are native to the tropical rainforests and they have survived those conditions by being tough and resilient.

Orchids can reproduce both though the traditional system followed by most plants, wherein the flower is pollinated by insects or small animals, and also by generating a new plant by themselves, without external fertilization. The young plant grows on the parent plant while it develops its own roots. This small plant is a clone of the parent plant and is also called a keiki.

Keikis are a result of the parent plant’s survival instinct. If the plant senses a change in its living conditions, be it a change in the temperature, humidity or light, it will go into survival mode and produce the keiki to make sure that its species continues in case it dies.

Sexual reproduction in orchids is much more common in the wild. This is when one orchid is pollinated by another via insects or small animals. The plant will then produce seeds and these seeds will continue the orchid species. This method can be difficult to simulate in a home greenhouse setup. You also have no control over what the resulting plant will look like, because it will be a combination of both parent plants.

What are the different methods of orchid propagation?

Keikis

‘Keiki’ literally means ‘baby’ in Hawaiian, and this is exactly what keikis are to the parent plant. Not all orchid varieties produce keikis. Keikis are floral layers, but most people just use the term to mean the actual small plant growing from the main plant.

From the orchid’s floral stick, a tiny plant will grow out, and this tiny plant is an exact replica of the mother plant. Keikis can grow naturally, but there are also ways of encouraging a plant to generate keikis.

This is the easiest way to reproduce Phalaenopsis orchids. They may not be the most prone variety of orchid to produce keikis, but they still can. Keikis can develop for various reasons, but the most drastic is when the plant is subjected to a lot of stress and produces the keiki as a way of reproducing before it dies.

You will know that a keiki is forming when you see a knot form on the floral stick and aerial roots start to appear on the knot. Soon enough, leaves will start to form on the knot, and will start to look just like the parent plant.

Wait until the keiki is at least two inches long before cutting it off, or wait until it has at least three leaves on it.

You can stimulate the production of a keiki by cutting the floral stick above a node. Remove the skin covering the node and expose it to light. The roots and keiki will hopefully come out from the node.

Cut the keiki around one to two inches down the stem and transplant it by placing it in a new pot, or in the same pot as the parent plant. Planting it in the same pot as the parent plant is recommended because the parent plant will shelter it by regulating the soil conditions so that the keiki has a better chance of growing. Place it in the pot root-down and cover with substrate.

The moment the keiki has begun growing properly, it can be separated from the parent plant. Be careful when uprooting it, because the roots may still be delicate and fragile.

Cuttings

If your orchid is not growing keikis, you can still produce more orchids using cuttings. This method is recommended for Phalaenopsis orchids because they are a fast-growing orchid variety, and the faster the orchid grows, the more cuttings you can get from the plant.

In order to take cuttings from your parent plant, you will need a sterilized pair of scissors, a sterilized knife, coconut fiber chunks or sphagnum moss, rooting hormones, a shallow plastic container, transparent film and an orchid plant with a floral stick that has lost all of its flowers.

Cut a stem from the orchid plant that is at least 20 inches long. Divide the stem into 4-inch sections and make sure each section has a dormant bud on it.

Place the growing medium on a shallow tray and spray it until it is moist. Place the cuttings on the medium and cover the tray with the plastic film. Place the tray somewhere that is around 60 degrees Fahrenheit and where the cuttings only get indirect sunlight.

Keep the cuttings moist, but make sure the medium is not soggy because this can end up rotting the cuttings. If any of the cuttings do end up rotting, remove them and throw them away.

When the cuttings develop new shoots and roots, you can plant the new plants in their individual pots, with a mixture of bark, lava rock and sphagnum moss. If you need to use a stick to keep them upright, do so. 

Place the pots where they can get bright, indirect light and start watering the plants normally once they start growing new leaves. Make sure the humidity around the plants is high and fertilize them once a month during the growing season of spring and summer.

Conclusion

Propagating orchids using keikis and cuttings is the fastest way of reproducing the plants in your collection.

You can propagate your Phalaenopsis orchids by waiting for the plant to produce keikis, which is another name for baby plants that grow on the parent plant, or you can take cuttings from the parent plant and plant sections of the floral stick so that they grow their own roots and leaves.

Once the keikis or the cuttings have established their roots well enough, they can be treated like normal plants and watered accordingly. Expose them to sufficient bright, indirect sunlight and fertilize them once a month during the growing season.

Image: istockphoto.com / Nelly Senko

Orchid water culture is when you grow the orchid in water only, without any kind of growing medium. The only materials you need for a simple water culture setup are the orchid, a glass container and water.

In semi water culture, you place the plant in the vase of water up to the top roots, making sure that the water does not touch the stem. You will keep the plant in the water for two or three days and then empty out the water and let the orchid sit in a dry vase for the next five days.

In this article, we will discuss how semi water culture is done, its pros and cons, as well as other water culture methods you try at home.

Can you grow orchids in water?

Yes, orchids can be grown in water. Despite being quite particular about their growing medium, orchids do quite well when grown in water, if it is done correctly.

If an orchid’s potting medium is constantly soggy, it can lead to root rot and the overall deterioration of the plant.

Bark mixtures are most commonly used by growers to avoid excess moisture, but one could argue that water culture is more effective.

Some orchids can grow without a growing medium the same way they do in their natural habitat, but there are varieties that are terrestrial and prefer growing in soil. Either way, most orchids do fine in a commercially available orchid potting mix.

Water culture is an option even for novice orchid growers. When you add water into the container with the orchid plant, a humid environment is created, which is what orchids love. The wide mouth of the container also allows air to flow in and out with ease.

You may need some patience and a fair amount of research if you plan on giving water culture a try, but if you get the hang of it, it is a fun and interesting way to grow your orchids.

What is semi water culture?

Semi water culture is when you cycle the orchid plant between wet and dry days alternately. The number of wet days to dry days will depend on the living conditions of the plant.

One cycle can be three wet days followed by two dry days, or two wet days followed by five dry days.

Using a clear glass container with a large mouth, start the plant off with the first cycle option and see how your plant reacts. The longer you do semi water culture, the more you learn about what the correct cycle will be for your orchid. If mold starts to appear when you have three wet days, taper it down to two days. If the roots start to look dry after five dry days, shorten it to four days. All plants are different, and not every household has the same climate, so you need to figure out the most suitable schedule for your plant.

On wet days, submerge approximately three quarters of the roots in water in the glass container, but make sure that the water does not reach the stem. On dry days, empty out the glass container completely.

The advantages of semi water culture are fewer problems with rotting and mold, because you are allowing the plant to dry out periodically. Because you are alternating between wet and dry days, you are basically simulating the plant’s natural environment. In the rainforests, orchids get periods of rain followed by periods without rain. Another advantage of semi water culture is that there are fewer pest problems than with normal potting mixes.

The disadvantage of semi water culture is the constant schedule of emptying the glass container and refilling it. There is also the risk of forgetting to empty or refill the container, thus either risking root rot or underwatering the plant. Following the schedule can be a lot of work, especially for people who are quite busy in their day-to-day lives. The constant emptying and filling of the containers can also be tiring if you have multiple orchids growing in multiple glass containers.

What are other water culture methods?

Full water culture

In full water culture, the orchid is kept in a glass container of water 100% of the time. In this case, however, only a quarter of the roots are submerged in the water.

Make sure you keep a mark on where the water level should be. If the water evaporates, fill the container back up to where the line is. It is important that you keep the water level the same at all times.

The roots do not get completely dry unless, maybe a few times a year, you happen to forget to refill the water.

The advantage of this method is just how low-maintenance and convenient it is. Just place water in the container and you are all set. You then just need to check on the water level and add water as needed. This method also has less chance of pest infestation than orchids in normal potting mixes.

The disadvantage of this method is the risk of rotting and mold, because the plant is constantly exposed to humidity. You need to keep on the lookout for possible rot or mold problems so you can treat them immediately.

Semi hydroponics

The semi hydroponic method is different from the other two methods because here, you are adding clay pebbles into the container as well as water.

The pebbles are added to provide support for the roots and stem of the orchid. You will also need to solder or drill air holes just above the water line. The holes will provide better air circulation around the plant’s roots and keep them from rotting and developing mold.

It may come as a shock when the old roots die and rot during the first couple of days or weeks after starting this method, but do not worry because this is normal and expected. The plant will grow new roots that will adapt to the new environment you have set up.

The advantages of semi hydroponics are the convenience and easy upkeep. All you really need to do is to maintain the water level. The air holes in the container also provide the roots with great air circulation, and there are also noticeably fewer pest problems than with normal potting mixes.

The disadvantages of this method are that it can be quite tricky to set up in the beginning, and you may have to do a fair bit of research before trying it out. If you have multiple orchids that you want to grow using this method, it may take some time to set them all up.

How do you transfer an orchid to a water culture setup?

1. If you want to give water culture a try, gather some clear glass containers, preferably those that have wide mouths and not ones that taper at the neck. The opening has to be wide enough to enable good air flow and for the leaves to be able to rest easily on the rim.
2. The container should also be big enough to accommodate all of the roots. It is always better to use a bigger container than one that is too small. Make sure to wash the container with warm water and soap before using it.
3. Next, take the orchid out of the pot and remove all the soil or potting medium. Rinse off the soil with water if you need to. Using a pair of sterilized scissors, cut off any dead and mushy roots. Remove any old leaves from the bottom part of the stem.
4. When you have cleaned the orchid’s roots well, spray them with 3% hydrogen peroxide to kill any bacteria and mold.
5. Place the orchid in the glass container and add as much water as required.
6. For semi water culture, make sure the water covers about three quarters of the roots.
7. For full water culture, make sure the water covers only one quarter of the roots.
8. For semi hydroponics, make sure the water is just below the longest roots of the plant.
9. When you first start water culture, do not be surprised if the old roots die off; this is normal.
10. Be patient and soon enough the plant will acclimatize to its new environment.
11. In full water culture, there is a higher risk of developing mold or rotting issues, so make sure you are always on the lookout for possible symptoms. If you can see white mold on the orchid, wash it off with lukewarm water and spray the area with 3% hydrogen peroxide.
12. If the water in the container is starting to look cloudy and smell bad, dump out the old water, wash the container with soap, rinse well, then refill it with clean water.
13. Check the pH of the water; orchids like a pH between 5.5 and 6.5.

Conclusion

Semi water culture is a type of water culture wherein three quarters of the orchid’s roots are submerged in water inside a clear glass container, for two or three days. The container is then emptied and the plant’s roots are left to dry out for three to five days.

The exact number of wet and dry days will depend on the type of orchid as well as on the local environment. If the humidity is low, you may have to reduce the dry days because the roots will dry out quickly.

Semi water culture can be a bit of a chore to implement because you will need to empty and refill the water every couple of days, but if you have no problem following a schedule, it is a great way to grow your orchids.

Image: istockphoto.com / Emilija Randjelovic

Orchids are perennial plants that may be terrestrial or epiphytic, depending on the variety. These popular flowering plants have roughly 25,000 species and are native to the tropical and subtropical regions of the world. Whether you choose a low-maintenance variety or one that is trickier to grow, either way, you may encounter drooping leaves on your orchid at some point in its life. There are various reasons an orchid’s leaves might droop, so let us get to know some of them, as well as how to fix this problem. 

Orchid leaves drooping: What are the reasons?

1. Overwatering 

Overwatering is the biggest cause of damage and death in orchids. The problem starts at root level, where the roots are suffocated and therefore unable to absorb oxygen and essential nutrients, causing the leaves to become limp and wrinkled instead of being firm and plump. 

Signs that your orchids are overwatered:

• The leaves are flaccid and lose their turgidity. 
• The leaves develop wrinkles and lose their glossy appearance.
• The leaves may curve sideways or droop lengthways. 
• The leaves turn yellow. 
• The roots are rotting and turning brown.
• The roots have an unpleasant smell. 

2. Underwatering 

If your orchids have limp, withered, and drooping leaves, it could also mean that they are dehydrated due to underwatering. Orchids are tropical plants, and to grow healthily they need soil moisture as well as warmth.

Signs that your plants are underwatered:

• There are dry patches or edges on the leaves. 
• The leaves turn brown, usually in vein-like formations or patches. 
• The leaves turn yellow, starting at the tips. This is because the plant is withdrawing water and energy from the ends of the leaves. 

3. Excessive heat 

Orchids prefer warm temperatures, but they have a limit, and temperatures beyond this will cause their leaves to become wilted and droopy.  

4. Cold temperatures 

Orchids thrive in warm temperatures, and when it gets too cold their leaves will start to droop. The plants could even die if exposed to cold weather for extended periods. 

5. The wrong growing medium

Your orchid’s leaves could be drooping because it is in the wrong growing medium or potting soil. It could be too acidic; it could also be too old and depleted of nutrients, in which case it will need to be changed for a fresh medium. 

6. Root, crown and leaf rot

Fungal infections like root and crown root could cause serious damage to your plants, and one of the signs is limp and droopy leaves. These signs are the same as for overwatering because overwatering exacerbates root rot,  so you should always monitor the watering frequency for your plants.

Another reason your orchid’s leaves could droop and wilt is a sudden change in temperature. Exposing the plants to rapidly changing temperatures could stress them out. Move them away from air conditioners, heating vents and other sources of hot and cold temperatures.  

Ethylene gas could also cause wilting and drooping leaves. Some fruits give off ethylene gas as they ripen, such as bananas, melons and apples, as well as vegetables like potatoes, so keep your orchids away from these foods. 

Pests and diseases could also cause leaves to wilt and become droopy. Aphids emit a liquid that causes sooty mold to develop on the plants. If the plants become diseased, the roots may smell rotten and the stems and leaves may turn brown, black, and droopy.  

Eradicate pests by spraying them with water, alcohol solution or insecticidal soap. If the plants are diseased, cut off the unhealthy parts with a sterilized knife and dust the cut tissue with fungicide powder. Replant the orchids in fresh potting mix, using new containers. 

How to revive an orchid with drooping leaves 

If the plant is underwatered

To revive your orchid, do the following:

• First method: Take the plant, without its pot, to the sink and soak all of the potting medium with tepid water for at least 15 to 30 seconds. Be sure to soak the aerial roots and dislodge any water that is stuck between the leaves to avoid rot. 

• Second method: Place your potted orchids inside another container or bucket with no drainage holes. Add water until it reaches the rim of the pot. Soak the plants for at least 15 to 30 minutes, after which you can discard the excess water. 

If the plants are overwatered 

If the root system has rotted, you need to trim off the rotten roots before repotting the plant. Use a new, sterile pot and fresh potting medium. This will ensure that no fungi or bacteria can spread from the old pot and medium; it will also provide fresh nutrients to help the plant recover faster. Make sure you do not use a pot that is too big for your plant, as this can retain unnecessary water and could contribute to overwatering. 

Conclusion 

Orchids are popular flowering plants and are relatively drought-resistant. Regardless of whether your chosen orchid species is low-maintenance or difficult to grow, you may encounter drooping leaves at some stage while growing them. This could be due to over-or underwatering, extremes of temperature or changes in temperature, or pests and diseases. To revive the plant, you will need to identify the cause of the drooping so you can address the problem correctly. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Solstizia

Your orchids can become dehydrated if they are getting less water than they need. Some orchids have more water stores than others, but even they will become dehydrated after long periods of neglect. Eventually, the plant may wither away due to the lack of water.

The signs of a dehydrated orchid include pale, yellowing leaves, droopy foliage, grayish-white roots, wrinkled roots, or the absence of roots.

In this article, we will delve further into the signs to look out for if you suspect your orchids are underwatered, as well as how to save a dehydrated orchid.

What are the signs of a dehydrated orchid?

The signs of a dehydrated orchid are generally most notable on the plant’s leaves. The leaves become wrinkly and droopy because they have lost their firmness due to the lack of moisture.

When you see a wrinkled leaf, do not assume the worst just yet. If the wrinkled and droopy leaves are near the base of the plant and there are only one or two of them, that is normal and the plant is probably just shedding its older leaves.

You need to worry though if all of the leaves on the plant seem to simultaneously become wrinkled and droopy. This is a red flag and is most probably due to dehydration.

If you look at the roots of a dehydrated orchid, they are dry and look dead.

There may be cases where the roots look dry and brittle, but the leaves are firm and look healthy. This can happen when the plant is adjusting to a new environment. Orchids can shed their old roots in this case and be completely fine. They will simply grow new ones.

Just to be sure, however, if the roots are starting to look dry you should ask yourself whether you have been diligent in watering your orchid.

Unfortunately, leaves that have wrinkled from dehydration will no longer be able to recover and it is better to just cut them off if you are concerned about the aesthetic of your orchid. As long as you water the plant correctly and it is able to recover, new, smooth leaves will grow out.

What are the causes of dehydration in orchids?

Temperature

Naturally, if the weather is warm, the rate of evaporation will also increase, and the water in your orchid will evaporate faster.

When the seasons change, the temperature will also change and you will have to adjust your watering techniques to compensate. During the hottest days of summer, make sure you keep a close eye on your orchids so that they do not become dehydrated.

If you keep the orchids indoors, make sure you keep them away from the heating vents in your home because the warm drafts can also damage them.

Humidity

Orchids are native to tropical rainforests where the humidity is high, and they absorb a lot of the moisture they need from the air. They are not able to thrive in dry, arid conditions for long periods of time.

Summers can be quite dry, so make sure you keep the humidity around your plants high to keep them happy.

You can help your plants by placing a pebble tray filled with water under the plant’s pot, or you can place the orchids close to each other so that they can create a microclimate and increase the humidity around themselves. Alternatively, you can just buy a humidifier to conveniently increase the humidity in the room.

Too much sunlight

Another reason your orchid may become dehydrated is if you are exposing it to too much sunlight. The hot sunlight can quickly dry out the plant.

In their natural habitat, orchids get filtered or dappled light because of the canopy of the trees around them in the rainforests. Try to simulate this same experience for your orchids in your home by placing them under the shade of a large tree or by using a shade net. Avoid keeping the plants in deep shade, however,  because they do still need constant light to thrive and flower properly.

Fertilizing problems

Overfeeding and bad quality fertilizer can also contribute to your orchid drying out. When a plant is given too much fertilizer, the mineral salts can accumulate in the growing medium and cause toxicity to the plant.

You can remedy this by flushing out the buildup of mineral salts every couple of months to save your plant from root burn or toxicity.

How to save a dehydrated orchid

To save your dehydrated orchid, you need to water it immediately.

The first method is to soak the plant by placing it in a sink filled with water. Leave it to stand in the water for 20 to 30 minutes, which gives the plant time to soak up enough water.

After 20 to 30 minutes, remove the pot from the water and let any excess water runoff. Place the pot back in its spot and keep an eye on the potting medium. As soon as the soil is dry, it is time to water it again.

Another method is to take the orchid out of the pot and remove all of the potting medium from around the roots. If there are any dead roots, remove them. Make sure the tools you use to trim the roots are sterilized so that the plant does not get infected by any pathogens.

Place the remaining good roots in a container of water so the plant can rehydrate. Keep the plant standing in the water for a few weeks. Bring the water level to about halfway up the roots and add more water when the level drops from that line. Make sure the water does not reach the stem of the plant because this can cause the stem to rot and the plant to die.

Change the water in the container if it starts to get cloudy or has begun to smell.

When you can see that the plant has become stronger and retained its vigor, you can return it to its own pot with a well-draining potting mix.

Conclusion

Your orchid will become dehydrated if you do not give it the water it needs at the correct intervals. Its leaves will turn pale and yellow, they will wrinkle and droop, and the plant’s roots will turn grayish-white.

Dehydration in orchids can be due to temperature changes, changes in humidity, too much sunlight or too much fertilizer.

Save your dehydrated orchid by placing the plant’s pot in a basin or sink filled with water. Leave it there for 20 to 30 minutes, then let the excess water drain out and wait for the plant to recover.

You can also remove the plant from its growing medium and place it in a container of water that covers the roots up to halfway. Refill the water when it gets below this halfway line. Keep this up for a few weeks and your orchid should return to normal.

Image: istockphoto.com / ali muhammad usman

Orchids are popular houseplants because of their beautiful, dainty flowers. They are non-woody perennials that thrive in bright, indirect light, and are native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world. In this article, we will get to know more about why orchids might lose all their leaves, and how you can revive them if this happens. 

Orchid lost all leaves: What are the causes?

1. Improper watering and feeding techniques 

Underwatering your orchids could result in leaf loss. Some tell-tale signs that your plants need more water may include yellowing and dropping of leaves. The plants also become wilted from dehydration, and the flower buds will fall off without opening. To save dehydrated orchids, let the pot stand in water for enough time to allow all the potting medium to be soaked, and then allow the excess water to drip out. Alternatively, you can soak the bare roots directly in water for at least 30 minutes.

Orchids that are not properly nourished could also lose their leaves.  In this case, orchid-specific, granular fertilizers will be a big help in reviving the plants. Water the orchids and feed them with diluted fertilizer, because if it is too concentrated it could damage the roots. 

2. Inappropriate growing conditions

Certain environmental conditions could be inadequate for the healthy growth of your orchids, and could cause them to lose their leaves. Factors that could contribute to this include humidity, temperature and sunlight. Extremes in any of these factors could result in yellowing and loss of leaves. To fix this, the ideal is to provide a controlled environment such as a greenhouse. If you do not have access to this kind of environment,  research the ideal conditions for your specific variety of orchid and simulate them as best you can in your home. 

3. Diseases 

Fungal and bacterial diseases could invade your orchids and cause a loss of leaves. They might first cause spots on the leaves which will progress to rot, and if left untreated, the leaves will die. You will need to correctly diagnose the disease in order to revive your plants. 

4. Pests

If your plant is invaded by pests and the infestation becomes severe, it may well lose its leaves. Pests like spider mites feed on plant tissue, which significantly weakens the plants. To eradicate the pests, treat the plant with an alcohol solution or neem oil applied to the leaves on a cotton wool ball. 

How to revive orchids that have lost their leaves?

First, assess the affected plants. 

Evaluate the affected plants before attempting to revive them. The physical symptoms displayed by the plant should be able to help you identify the problem so that you can address it appropriately. This will save time and effort in the long run, and will give you a better idea of whether there is still a chance of saving the plants.

Check the stems and roots. The stems should be green; this means that they are still receiving water and nutrients from the roots. Brittle branches that have turned yellow may no longer be able to support leaf growth. 

The roots should also be checked since they are responsible for the plants’ growth. Brown or black, soft roots are an indication of root rot, which can affect your plants’ chances of survival. If there are too many damaged roots it may be hard to revive the plants. 

Next, repot the plants.

Orchids that have lost their leaves need to be repotted. A new, healthy potting mix will help the plants to grow new leaves. Some plant owners use clear plastic pots so that the roots have more access to sunlight, lack of which is a factor in limiting growth. The roots provide the plant with energy to produce new leaves. 

Repotting also means replacing the old medium or potting mix. Opt for sphagnum moss to encourage new leaves, but be sure not to pack the roots too tightly in the medium to allow for adequate aeration. 

Finally, fertilize the plants. 

Use a fertilizer with a high nitrogen content that matches the potassium ratio to stimulate the growth of new leaves. There is no guarantee, however, that the steps discussed above will revive your plants. It takes a lot of attention and patience, as well as constant monitoring, to revive the plants successfully, and even then, so may be too far gone to save.

Conclusion 

Orchids are popular flowering plants grown in homes the world over for their attractive blooms. Many species are easy to care for and drought-resistant; nevertheless, inadequate growing conditions could cause them to lose their leaves. Contributing factors could include improper watering or fertilizing techniques, incorrect growing conditions, diseases or pests. To revive an orchid that is losing its leaves, you will need to diagnose the cause of the problem so that you can address it appropriately. Whatever the cause, it is likely that you will need to repot it in fresh medium to support its recovery.

Image: istockphoto.com / Nora Tarvus

African violets are low-growing plants that have a multitude of leaf forms and flowers that come in purple, pink, blue or white. These herbaceous flowering plants are native to Tanzania and southeastern Kenya, in Africa. They are easy to grow and bloom several times each year. You can propagate and keep a whole collection of these pretty plants, but take note of the appropriate pot sizes to use to ensure that your plants grow well. 

What pot size to use for African violets

The pot size you choose for your African violets will depend on a number of factors, discussed below:

The variety of your plant 

The pot size you use will depend on what type of African violet you have. Miniature African violets should ideally have a pot size of one to two inches, with a maximum diameter of six inches. For semi-miniature African violets, the ideal size is around two to two-and-a-half inches, with a maximum diameter of eight inches. Standard or large plants should have a pot size of three to four inches, with a maximum diameter of 12 inches.  

The diameter of your plant 

Another factor to consider is the diameter of your African violets. The ideal pot size for the plants is one-third of their diameter; in other words, the plant’s diameter should ideally be three times the diameter of the pot. Thus, if the diameter of your plant is three inches, it should be in a one-inch pot; if the plant’s diameter is six inches, it should be in a two-inch pot. 

If the diameter of the plant is eight inches, it should be in a two-to-three-inch pot; if the diameter is nine inches, it should be in a three-inch pot; and if the diameter is 12 inches, it should be in a four-inch pot. The plant’s diameter is measured from the outer edge of the leaf, across the crown to the outer edge of the opposite leaf. 

The size of the plant’s roots. 

The pot size to use for your plants will also depend on the length and width of the roots, or the size of the root ball. The pot size should be big enough for the roots to fit snugly inside and there should be just enough space around the roots for soil to be added. Once the pot is filled with soil, the roots should not stick out from the top of the pot or come out from the bottom. 

If the roots stick out, you need to pot the plant in a pot that is one inch larger. These plants prefer the size of their new pots to increase by increments of one inch, so if your plant is in a three-inch pot, place it in a four-inch pot. If the plants are placed in pots too large for their root systems, the excess soil could result in too much water retention, and this could lead to root and crown rot. 

What happens if the pot is too small for your plants?

If the pot size is too small, the roots may start growing out from the top of the soil and down through the drainage holes at the bottom. The roots will also become rootbound and compacted due to lack of soil. 

If the roots take up all the space in the pot and there is no space left, they may start to overcrowd and form a very tight root ball. If this happens, the plants become deprived of nutrients, moisture and air. The growth slows down and the leaves will grow more slowly from the crown, while the older leaves will turn yellow or fall off. The necks of the plants may also become elongated, including the leaf stems, and there will be fewer buds and flowers. 

What happens if your pot is too large for your plants?

The roots may get lost in all the extra soil if your pot is too large for your plants. The roots will try to expand to fill the pot, leaving less energy for the growth of other plant parts, such as the flowers and leaves. This slows down the plant’s growth and there will be fewer blooms. 

If the pot is too large, the soil is more likely to remain wet for longer periods, despite having enough drainage. Since there are fewer roots to absorb all the extra moisture, the roots will sit in the wet soil and this could lead to root rot. 

Conclusion 

African violets are perennial flowering plants that are popular in homes because of their dainty blooms. They are easy to cultivate, but require good care and attention, especially when it comes to the size of the pots that you use. The pot size you select for your African violets will depend on the variety of your plants, be they miniature, semi-miniature, or standard. You should also consider their diameter and the size of their roots. 

Image: istockphoto.com / Liudmila Chernetska

The most common African violet problems are pests, disease, dirty leaves, a lack of flowers or inability to bloom, pale or bleached leaves, wilting, spots on the leaves, lack of new growth and tight crown, or leaf crowding.

In this article, we will discuss the different problems you may encounter with your African violets, and how to remedy them. If you are currently experiencing any of these problems, keep reading.

What are African violets’ most common problems?

1. Pests

Cyclamen mite infestation

These creatures are more closely related to spiders than they are to insects, and, like spiders, they have eight legs. They are one of the most commonly found pests on African violets.

It can be quite difficult to spot these bugs on the plant’s leaves because they are so small. But despite their diminutive size, they can do considerable damage to the foliage of the plant. They prefer feeding on the leaves at the center before making their way to the rest of the plant.

The symptoms of a cyclamen mite infestation are stunted growth and curling leaves. The leaves on a plant infested with these mites also seem to be hairier than normal. The buds will look stunted and misshapen which affects the plant’s bloom, so it should come as no surprise that flowering will probably cease.

These pests are most active in a humid setting and temperatures of around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They tend to avoid the light and prefer to hide within the folds of the leaves.

They like the area where the stem meets the petioles, so these are the parts affected first.

They feed on the plant by sucking the sap from the leaves and the stem. They also leave a toxic substance on the leaves while feeding, and this substance affects the plant’s overall growth patterns.

The longer you let an infestation go on, the higher the chances of the flowers and leaves dying. Eventually, the center of the plant will be compromised and the entire plant will succumb.

If you are able to catch the infestation in its early stages, the plant can still recover aesthetically, but the worse the damage, the longer the recovery time.

You can prevent cyclamen mite infestations by keeping your plants sufficiently distanced from one another that their leaves do not touch those of other plants. If you suspect one plant to have cyclamen mites, separate it from all your other plants while you treat it.

If the infestation is really severe, it may be better to dispose of the plant. Wash the pot of the infested plant in a solution of 9:1 water and bleach. Let the pot soak in this for at least 30 minutes to make sure all of the mites are killed.

If the infestation is mild or manageable, you can try spraying the plant down with a miticide spray specifically for houseplants. Repeat the spraying every three days until you are sure there are no mites left.

Mealybugs

Another pest that attacks African violets is the mealybug. These are around a quarter of an inch big, and they have a material around their bodies that makes them look like cotton.

You can spot them on the leaves and stems of the plant, feeding on the foliage by sucking out the sap. The result is distorted leaves and stunted growth.

In severe infestations, these pests can cause the death of the leaves and even the entire plant.

Prevent and control these pests by making sure you check each new plant that you bring into your home. Check the pot and the soil as well as the plant itself.

If the infestation is still in its early stages, you can place neem oil on a cotton ball and wipe down the leaves and stems of the plant to kill the mealybugs.

Severe infestations are trickier to handle because of the waxy substance on the bodies of the adult mealybugs that can protect the bugs from insecticide. Apply neem oil of the plant once a week for a month to make sure that all the bugs and their nymphs are killed.

2. Diseases

Root and crown rot

Root and crown rot is caused by a fungus that attacks the roots of the African violet when they have been damaged or compromised due to overwatering.

The roots and the crown root of the plant are soft and mushy because they have decayed due to standing too long in wet soil. The leaves at the base will look droopy and the newer leaves at the center of the plant will become black and will die.

The most common fungi that cause rot are the Phytophthora and Pythium fungi species.

Prevent rot by making sure you do not overwater the plant, use soil that is well-draining, airy and porous, and a pot that has drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to flow out.

You can save a plant with rot by removing it from the pot and washing off as much old soil as you can. Inspect the roots and cut off those that have turned brown or black, because those are rotten and infected. Use a sterile pair of scissors to do this, to prevent the spread of disease.

Spray the healthy roots with fungicide before letting them air dry on a paper towel. After a few hours the roots should be dry and you can transfer the plant to a new pot.

Botrytis blight

This disease is caused by the Botrytis cinerea fungus. Signs of the disease will first appear as water-soaked lesions on the underside of the leaf. The foliage will appear blighted and dark brown to gray, with a fuzzy coating on the surface.

You can treat this disease by removing and properly discarding the dead debris from the pot. Make sure the plant gets good air circulation and do not get the leaves and flowers wet.

Blight often goes hand in hand with a mite infestation, so preventing mites also helps keep blight at bay.

3. Dirty leaves

Wetting the African violet’s leaves can lead to brown spots when exposed to sunlight, so it is not advisable to do so. You might therefore notice the leaves of your plant becoming dusty, dirty and covered with debris. This can block the leaves’ access to sunlight, so it is a good idea to clean it off from time to time.

Clean off any debris and dead foliage from the plant and from the soil around the base of the plant. Use a pair of sterile tweezers to pull off dead or dying leaves, and dust off the leaves using a dry paintbrush or a clean piece of cloth.

4. Lack of flowers

If your African violet is not producing any flowers, it is probably due to a lack of sunlight or low temperature.

You can remedy this by transferring the plant to a spot where it gets more bright, indirect light during the day. In the winter, when light is scarce, buy a grow lamp to help your plant.

Make sure the temperature around the house is at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and between 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit at night.

5. Pale leaves

This happens when the plant is getting too much sunlight. If the plant’s leaves are left under bright, direct sunlight for extended periods of time, the leaves will become bleached.

Remedy this by transferring the plant to a spot where it only gets indirect light. If the only window you have let in too much light, try diffusing the light with a sheer curtain.

The plant is wilted and limp despite moist soil

In this case, the plant is most likely overwatered. This may be due to you giving the plant more water than it needs, but it could also be due to poorly-draining soil, the pot not having sufficient drainage, or if you water the plant at night when the soil cannot dry out as quickly as it needs to.

Remedy this by transferring the plant to a pot that drains well, using soil that is airy and porous. Also, avoid letting the plant stand in water for long periods of time.

6. Tight crown, or leaf crowding

This is caused by giving the African violet too much fertilizer.

Remedy this by flushing the soil with water once a month to remove any mineral salts that may have formed in the soil or on the plant. Reduce the amount of fertilizer you use or reduce your frequency of fertilizing.

Conclusion

The African violet is one of the most popular houseplants in the United States. This is because it is low-maintenance and hardy and can live for a very long time if properly cared for. The plant also has beautiful flowers that bloom almost year-round and can brighten up any living space.

The most common problems faced by African violet growers are pests, disease, dirty leaves, lack of flowers, pale leaves, wilting, spots on the leaves, lack of new growth and tight crown, or leaf crowding.

Image: istockphoto.com / Stepanyda

You can root African violets in water by filling a container with room temperature water and placing cling wrap taut over the top, then sticking leaves taken from the mother plant into holes in the cellophane. Make sure the cuttings reach the water. Then place the container in a spot with bright, indirect light and optimal humidity and temperature.

Change the water once a week, and roots should start to appear within two weeks.

After a month or a month and a half, the mother leaves will grow plantlets. Move the baby plants to a pot when they are about half an inch long.

To learn more about how to root African violets in water, keep reading.

African violet propagation from leaf

Using leaves from a parent plant to propagate African violets is quite easy and will cause very little change to the aesthetic of the parent plant.

When choosing which leaves to cut off for rooting, pick ones that are mature but not too old. Young leaves will root just the same, but it might take them longer to do so. If you accidentally break off a leaf that is fairly young, you can still let it root in water.

Use a sterilized pair of scissors to cut off the leaf so that you do not infect the parent plant with any fungi or bacteria, and try to cut the stem at an angle.

How to root African violets in water

Propagating African violet leaves in water can be fun because you get to see the progress of the rooting very clearly.

Prepare a glass container and fill it with water. Stretch some cling wrap over the mouth of the container until it is taut. Poke holes in the cling wrap using a bamboo skewer; these will be where you will insert the cuttings.

Once you have chosen the leaves, cut them with a sterile pair of scissors and place the cut leaf into a hole in the cling wrap, making sure the end of the cutting reaches the water. Only the stem should touch the water; the actual leaf should not get wet.

Use room temperature water only. Tap water can be used, but if you think your tap water is heavy in minerals, you can use filtered water instead.

Only change the water once a week, or whenever the water starts to look murky. Refill the container if the water level drops below the bottom of the cutting to ensure that the stem is always touching the water.

Place the container in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light most of the day and where the temperature and humidity are stable.

Now, all you need to do is to wait and monitor your cuttings. After one or two weeks, you should be able to see tiny roots forming. Do not worry If the growth is slow, as long as the leaf itself is looking healthy.

Two weeks

After two weeks, the leaves should have grown their first roots. Your cuttings may not all form roots at the same rate because of the difference in the maturity of the leaves you chose for cuttings.

Two months

After two months, you should be seeing baby plants, or plantlets, starting to grow. By this time the roots should be long and strong, and their growth will have got faster.

Three months

By this time, the plantlets will have grown nicely. Each leaf-cutting you rooted will ideally produce multiple plantlets. You can now remove the plantlets from the main leaf as they are ready to be planted in soil in their own small containers. You can also choose to keep the main leaves in the water and let the baby plants grow out their roots just a little bit longer.

Separating the baby plant from the main cutting

The plantlets are growing from the petiole of the main leaf. Remove the plantlet gently with your fingers, or you can use a sterile knife and tweezers to be more precise.

Prepare a small pot with moist, well-draining potting mix. Poke a hole in the middle of the soil and place the plantlet in it. Make sure all of the plant’s roots are covered with soil.

You can place the pot inside a Ziploc bag for a few weeks because the humidity inside the bag will be higher than outside. This will help the plant grow better while also keeping it safe from pests and disease.

Other methods of propagation 

Propagating in soil

Rooting African violet cuttings in soil is similar to rooting them in water, except you cannot see the roots as they form. Cut the petiole the same way, at an angle.

Prepare a small pot with well-draining soil, poke a hole in the middle and place the cutting inside it. Try not to push the cutting too deep into the hole. You can water the soil around the cutting a little bit, but not too much.

If you do not want to constantly water the plant, place the small containers inside a large, clear plastic container. This elevates the humidity around the plants and keeps the moisture locked in. Do not forget to open the plastic container every week or so to let fresh air circulate for a bit and water the plants if they need it.

You can use any container, as long as it is clear so as not to impede the light from reaching the plants.

Place the container in a spot where the plants can get sufficient bright, indirect light and where the temperature is around 70 degrees Fahrenheit and stable.

After you have done all this, all you need to do is wait for the roots to start developing.

If you think you pushed the cutting too deep into the soil, you can remove some soil from the top layer, as long as the plant is secured.

After two months, you should see baby plants growing around the base of the cutting.

Just like with water rooting, you can remove the plantlets from the main leaf when they are big enough. Plant them in their own small pots and you can now care for them the same way you would a regular African violet plant.

Conclusion

You can root your African violets in water by choosing mature leaves from a parent plant and inserting them through holes poked in cling film over a clear container filled with water. Make sure the ends of the cuttings are touching the water. Place the container near a window that provides bright, indirect light and ensures the temperature and humidity around it are optimal.

After a few weeks, roots will start to grow and soon plantlets will appear on the petiole.

After two months, the roots on the plantlets will be long and strong enough for you to cut them off the main leaf and plant them in their own small pots, in well-draining soil.

Image: istockphoto.com / cliper

One of the main reasons people choose to grow African violets is because of their beautiful flowers, and growers, therefore, want to know exactly what to do to make their African violets bloom.

Often, the reason your African violet is not blooming is that it is not getting enough sunlight. These plants need bright, indirect sunlight in order to produce flowers. Place them next to a north-, east-, or west-facing window so they get light that is not that too intense. You can also buy a grow lamp to help the plant out during the winter.

In this article, we will discuss what measures you can take to help your African violet bloom.

How often do African violets bloom?

African violets are quite low-maintenance if their living conditions are ideal, and can bloom almost year-round if properly cared for. Their flowers will last for up to three weeks. A well-cared for plant can have continuous blooms for 10 to 12 months in a year. 

The frequency of an African violet’s bloom will also depend on its genetics. There are those that bloom constantly, while others scarcely bloom. But if the plant has a history of blooming, chances are you can coax it to bloom again even if it has taken a break.

Why did my African violet stop blooming?

1. Lighting issues

These plants need light in order to bloom. The best light for them is bright morning light or the less intense light of the late afternoon. Try not to expose them too late morning or early afternoon sunlight because it may be too much for them.

If the plant is not getting enough light, its stems will elongate and its leaves will become small.

Too much sunlight, on the other hand, can bleach the plant’s leaves.

2. Genetics

As we mentioned, not all African violets are created equal. Due to breeding, some are prolific bloomers while others can live their entire lives never having bloomed once.

3. Watering issues

When you underwater the plant, it will dry up and the buds will fall off.

When you give it too much water, the roots can end up drowning and rotting.

African violets prefer moisture most of the time, but they should also be able to dry out between waterings to allow the roots access to oxygen.

4. Low humidity

Dry air, especially indoors, can also affect the plant’s ability to bloom. Never let the humidity around your plant get any lower than 40%.

5. Fertilizer issues

African violets need proper nourishment to be able to bloom. Often the nutrients and minerals in the soil are enough, but the soil can become depleted over time and you may need to replenish it.

If you let the plant go without nutrients, it will not have the energy to bloom, while overfeeding the plant can kill or burn its roots and also keep it from flowering.

6. Soil pH

Incorrect soil pH can cause the plant not to get the nutrients it needs. Plants need their soil at a certain pH for effective absorption of nutrients and minerals to take place.

This is not a very common problem for potted plants, but if your violets are planted in the ground, then it is definitely possible.

African violets like a soil pH of 6.8.

7. Compact growing medium

Another reason your African violets may have a hard time blooming is due to compacted soil or growing medium.

You can check whether your plant has a good potting medium by pushing your finger into the soil. If you have no problem pushing into the soil, it is not compacted, but if you are met with a lot of resistance, it is most likely compacted.

8. Wrong pot

If you plant your African violet in a pot that is too big, more excess water can be retained in the soil and this can lead to overwatering and root rot.

Choose a pot that has a diameter one-third less than the plant’s leaf spread.

9. Disease and pests

Infections and infestations from mealybugs, mites, powdery mildew and blossom blight can negatively affect the African violet’s bloom.

How to make an African violet bloom

Increase the humidity

African violets are tropical plants that need moisture in the air in order to grow best. You can help your plants by placing them close to one another to create a microclimate with increased humidity. Just make sure they are not so close that leaves are touching, to minimize the risk of spreading pests and diseases. You can also use a pebble tray filled with water under the plant’s pot to boost humidity.

Efficient lighting

As mentioned above, lighting is important to keep an African violet blooming. Place the plant in a spot where it gets bright, indirect light. In the summer, place it in a north- or west-facing window so it can be protected from the intense afternoon sun.

In the winter, choose an east-facing window to reduce the risk of sunburn.

Give the plant a quarter-turn every week so that all sides get sunlight evenly.

Feed the plant correctly

If your plant has depleted all the nutrients in the soil, feed it sparingly with diluted fertilizer. Give a gentle fertilizer formula when you water the plant, and that should be enough.

Temperature

Keep the temperature around the plant at 70 degrees Fahrenheit or as close as you can, because this is the optimal temperature for African violets. If the temperature is too high or too low, the plant will cease to bloom. Make sure there are no cold or warm drafts passing through where the plant is situated, as these can dry the plant out.

Use the right kind of soil

Make sure the soil you are using is not dense or compact. Choose soil that is loose, porous and airy; this also makes for a well-draining medium. The plant’s roots are delicate and will do better in fluffy soil. If you can test the soil, all the better. Keep it at pH 6.8 or as close as possible.

Protect the plant from disease and pests

If the plant is constantly staving off pests and disease, it will no longer have the energy to produce flowers, so make sure you check regularly for pests or signs of disease.

Choose the right pot

As mentioned above, do not plant the African violet in a pot that is too big for it. These plants want their roots to be a bit snug, so choose a pot that is one-third smaller in diameter than the width of the plant.

Conclusion

African violets are low-maintenance plants as long as they are kept in their ideal growing conditions.

The most likely reasons your African violet is not blooming are lighting issues, genetics, incorrect watering, low humidity, fertilizer issues, incorrect soil pH, compacted soil, temperature issues, incorrect pot size, pests or disease.

Encourage your plant to bloom by increasing the humidity around it, providing bright, indirect light, fertilizing the plant properly, keeping the temperature around 70 degrees Fahrenheit, using the correct pot and soil, and protecting it from pests and diseases.

Image: istockphoto.com / ThorMitty

Orchid plants, with the scientific name Orchidaceae, belong to the largest family of flowering plants, with more than 25,000 species. Most of these plants grow in the tropical and subtropical regions of the world. These plants may be epiphytic or terrestrial, and their roots have a spongy covering called velamen. It is sometimes necessary to trim their roots, particularly in the event of rot. While unhealthy roots should be trimmed back, it is essential not to harm the healthy roots, which are the plants’ lifeline. If you need to trim your orchid’s roots, this article will help you learn how to do so properly.

How to trim orchid roots

1. Peel back the layers of old potting mix. 

To find the dead roots, you need to peel back the layers of old potting mix. Since this is a messy procedure, you should lay out some old newspapers or towels on your work table, and have a bucket or bin nearby for easy disposal. The old potting mix will make good compost for the garden. 

2. Use sterilized garden tools and prepare a hydrogen peroxide solution. 

Make sure your garden tools are all sterilized to avoid the spread of infection. Prepare a hydrogen peroxide solution to sterilize the shears and the orchid’s roots. Mix nine parts lukewarm water to one part common 3% hydrogen peroxide or 70% isopropyl alcohol. Put the solution in a spray bottle for use also during the pruning process. 

Submerge the shears and other gardening tools in the solution for at least 30 seconds, then remove and let them dry on paper towels. The solution will also be used to disinfect the cut orchid roots and stems, to avoid a bacterial transfer. 

3. Gently remove the orchid from the pot and rinse the roots with warm water. 

Comb out the old potting mix with your fingers and rinse the roots with warm water. It helps dislodge potting mix from the roots and allows you to distinguish the healthy from the unhealthy roots. 

4. Be sure to distinguish the healthy from unhealthy roots. 

Healthy roots are silvery and turn greener as they become hydrated; plump, green roots mean they are sufficiently hydrated. Meanwhile, brownish, flattened roots indicate an unhealthy state. These roots are also soft, mushy and thin. 

5. Cut off and dispose of all rotten roots. 

Start the pruning process once you have properly identified the unhealthy roots. Tug on roots that look dead and see if their outer layer easily slips off. If so, cut these off as low as you can with a sterilized cutting tool. Cut at the base if the entire length is rotten. 

Sterilize the shears between each cut by soaking them in the hydrogen peroxide solution for about 30 seconds. This kills bacteria and fungus and prevents them from spreading to the tools and other plants. Do not trim off the healthy roots; just let them be. 

6. Treat the affected roots with a natural fungicide. 

If the roots are severely affected with root rot and are brown and soggy, you should apply a natural fungicide. First, treat the cut roots with a hydrogen peroxide solution, then sprinkle them with cinnamon, and finally, apply a natural fungicide. Avoid overwatering your orchids, because waterlogged soil encourages the growth of root rot.

7. Cut down non-blooming flower stalks or spikes.

Non-flowering flower stalks or spikes should be cut down to save your orchid plant from unnecessary energy.  Unhealthy orchids won’t bloom until they regain their vitality. Once the plants become healthy again new stalks will soon grow.  

Reasons you should trim your orchid’s dead roots

Old potting mix holds moisture that leads to decaying roots.

Potting mix combined with old sphagnum moss and chronic moisture could result in an acidic environment. The potted roots will become prone to decay and die off if they are exposed to this acidic environment for a prolonged period. Orchids are often wrapped in sphagnum moss to keep the roots moist, but this can degrade due to frequent watering. Some orchid pots also do not have drainage holes, which results in waterlogged soil. 

Dead roots that are untrimmed could lead to dehydration.

Orchids will have a decreased ability to absorb water if their potting mix has degraded and holds too much moisture. The roots become dehydrated and the healthy roots become fewer, which means less water is absorbed and the plant’s resources are strained. 

Trimming dead roots and adding fresh potting mix stimulates the plant’s growth and ability to bloom. 

Trimming off the dead roots can save your plant’s energy and improves its ability to bloom. The same thing happens when fresh potting mix is added, as it supplies the nutrients required for the plant to grow. 

Decaying roots spread fungal infections and become a haven for bacteria. 

Dying and decaying roots steal energy from the plant while decaying matter in your orchid’s potting mix becomes a breeding ground for bacteria and fungi. This could lead to a widespread infection that could damage your plant. Potting mix made of orchid bark degrades with time, so you should check your indoor orchids every few months and assess if they need to be repotted. 

Conclusion 

Orchids are perennial epiphytic or terrestrial plants that are popular for their gorgeous, multi-colored blooms. Their roots need special care, and occasionally need to be checked and trimmed, especially in the event of root rot. To trim orchid roots, you need to use sterilized gardening tools and be able to distinguish healthy roots from unhealthy ones. After cutting back the rotten roots, remember to treat the cut with a natural fungicide to help them regain their health.

Image: istockphoto.com / CemSelvi

Orchids are popular indoor plants that are commonly cultivated all around the world. They have attractive, colorful blooms that are also in demand commercially. Orchid roots require special care and should be checked regularly for problems such as root rot. This article will help you understand how and when to trim orchids’ roots, and the materials you will need.

Trimming orchid roots: Tools you will need 

1. Sterilized scissors

Gardening-specific scissors are the ideal tools for trimming orchid roots. However, you can also use household scissors if they are sanitized and sharp. Pruning shears are also a good option for trimming orchid roots. 

These tools have sharp blades meant for quick cuts to minimize plant stress. The straight shape allows for an easier reach into the orchid’s complicated root network. Sterilize the scissors or shears before cutting any plant part to prevent cross-contamination of diseases from other plants. 

2. A spray bottle

A spray bottle is a good thing to have for orchid growers. It can provide plants with the moisture and humidity they need to grow, and is also an easy way to apply disinfectants to your plant’s roots.

3. Disinfectant

The roots should be sanitized after trimming, so a disinfectant will come in handy. Most orchid growers use a solution of hydrogen peroxide and water to sterilize the roots before replanting them. 

4. A chopstick or butter knife

A chopstick or butter knife makes it easier to remove the plants from their pots, although it is not compulsory for the actual root trimming process. 

5. Potting mix

This is good to have on standby as you may need to top up the pot after you are done trimming the roots and replanting them. 

Trimming orchid roots: When is there a need to repot?

If the roots are tightly tangled

You need to repot the orchid if the roots are tightly tangled and have overtaken the pot that they are in. Plants in clear plastic containers are easier to monitor, since you can see the roots through the containers. If there are more roots than soil, the plants may require more nutrients sooner or later.

 If the roots are pushing the plant out of the pot

If the roots of your orchid are pushing the plant out of the pot, take it as a good sign. This means the orchid is healthy and thriving, but it also signifies that it needs a new pot. Be aware that aerial roots, or reaching roots, grow naturally out of the top and indicate that your plants are flourishing.

If there is new growth 

It is a good time to repot your orchid if there is new growth such as roots, buds or leaves. 

If you have determined that it is time to repot your orchid, schedule some time for the process. Widen the space between the container and the soil with a chopstick and gently grip the plant’s stem to remove it from the soil. Next, check the root ball thoroughly for any unhealthy roots. Loosen the root ball to inspect all of the roots; do not worry as there is no harm in loosening the root ball. 

Remove any roots that are not healthy using clean and sterilized gardening shears. Unhealthy roots are brown, black, mushy, or brittle. White, yellow, or green roots are healthy and should be left alone. 

Once you have trimmed the roots, spray the cuts with a hydrogen peroxide solution. Let them dry and after 10 minutes you can repot the plant. Water the orchid after repotting to encourage growth. 

Should you trim air roots?

No, you should not trim air roots or aerial roots, since they are the lifeline of your orchid. If you cut the air roots it will decrease the plant’s ability to absorb water and nutrients from the air. Air roots are covered in a distinctive, sponge-like tissue called velamen which enables the plant to absorb water and nutrients from the environment. 

Air roots are essential to help your plant sustain itself should its potted roots become damaged due to prolonged exposure to a moist environment. The more air roots your plant has, the healthier it is since the air roots are not as susceptible to damage from poor soil conditions.

Conclusion 

Orchids are popular indoor flowering plants that are widely cultivated the world over. If you are an orchid owner, it will occasionally be necessary to trim your orchid’s roots, such as if they have succumbed to rot or are otherwise unhealthy. Essential tools you will need before trimming the roots include gardening shears or scissors, a sterilizing solution and a spray bottle. Repot your orchid and check or trim its roots when there is new growth, if the roots are tightly tangled, in the event of root rot, or if the roots are pushing the plant out of the pot.

Image: istockphoto.com / Svetlana Makarova

Yes, many species of orchid have no problem being kept outside year-round in coastal areas or in warmer areas that do not have winters. In areas that do have winters, you can keep the plant outside during the warmer months, but make sure you take it indoors the moment the weather becomes cold.

Many orchids are native to tropical rainforests, so they thrive in the warm, humid areas under the canopies of the trees. Make sure you do not expose your orchid to direct sunlight; just bright, indirect light is best because direct sunlight can cause sun damage.

In this article, we will discuss how to keep an orchid outside, and what conditions are required.

What are the basic cultural needs of orchids?

Before we dive into how to grow orchids outside, let us first discuss the basic cultural needs of the orchid plant. Once we understand what these plants need, it will be easier to understand why they can only survive outside in certain conditions.

Light

Orchids need light and will not do well in deep shade. As mentioned above, many orchid species are native to tropical rainforests where they live under the protection of the tree canopy. This is why they prefer dappled light. The hotter the climate or the weather, the more shade is required. In humid and coastal areas there is often a lot more sun, so you should take that into consideration when choosing which types of orchids to grow in your garden. If you will not be able to provide shade for your plant, it is better to only grow orchid varieties that do better in intense light conditions.

Temperature

Most orchids typically do well in temperatures between 40 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Choose those that will do well within that range and they should have no problem adjusting to their surroundings.

Humidity

Humidity and temperature usually go hand in hand when it comes to what constitutes a good environment to grow orchids. Usually, if the temperature is good for the orchid, chances are the current humidity is also fine.

As long as the humidity levels are above 40%, it should be alright. If the conditions are too dry, you can remedy the situation by planting the orchid close to other plants that also appreciate higher-than-normal humidity, so that together they can create a microclimate.

Watering

Most orchids only need to be watered when their potting mix is dry. This is the best way to determine when to water the plant. If the top of the potting mix is dry to the touch, water the orchid. If the potting mix is still a bit damp, wait one or two days and check it again.

Fertilizer

During the orchid’s growing period, which is during the spring and summer, fertilize it once a week at half-strength and gradually taper off the frequency as the plant becomes more mature.

Is it okay to keep my orchids outside during the summer?

Yes, it is actually good for the orchid when it gets moved outdoors because you can then put the natural light to good use.

The growing period of most orchids is during the summer. In their natural habitat, they grow in the forest attached to trees and rocks and have adapted to the dappled light that the canopy of the rainforest provides. As long as you place your orchids under the shade of large trees or under a net, they should be perfectly fine being kept outside during the summer.

Can orchids get sun damage?

Yes, orchids can get sun damage when they are left outside under direct sunlight during the summer, or in the afternoon when the sun is at its most intense. The radiation given off by the sun is enough to cause sun damage, which presents as yellowing of the leaves. This change in color is very noticeable against the usual bright green color of the orchid’s leaves.

Fortunately, sunburn is rarely fatal to orchids and can be remedied by reducing the plant’s exposure to sunlight. Simply place the plant in a shadier spot.

If you leave the orchid where it is exposed to lots of sunlight, the yellow leaves will become white and then sunken spots will appear, which will then turn brown. This means the leaves have begun to decay and dry out, and they may die. These damaged leaves will also give pests and opportunistic pathogens an easy entry, causing infestations or infections.

How can I keep my orchid from getting sunburnt?

If you think your orchid could do with a little more sunlight, you should understand that this does not mean you should expose it to more intense sunlight; rather, you should expose it to indirect sunlight for longer periods. The length of time it has in indirect light is more important than the concentration of actual sunlight hitting the leaves.

If your plant has been kept indoors for several months over winter, taking it outside and exposing it to bright, indirect light will do it plenty of good. Aside from the light, the differences in temperature and humidity, as well as the improved air circulation, will do wonders for your orchid.

Just make sure you do not place the plant under the sun immediately. Let the plant acclimatize to the sunlight by moving it onto the patio first for a few days, and then taking it out further into your garden once it has adapted to the changes. A gradual transition is appreciated and will prevent any unwanted stress for the plant.

How do I water or mist my orchid in the summer?

Because summers are very dry in a lot of places, you may have a hard time achieving the humidity required by your plant.

During the winter, you may only have watered the plant once every couple of weeks, but you will definitely need to increase the frequency come summertime.

There is no strict schedule that you need to follow when watering your orchid; it is always best to simply check the plant’s potting mix. If the potting mix is dry, you need to water the orchid, but if the potting mix is still a bit damp, wait one or two days and check it again.

You can mist the plant in the morning and again in the afternoon if the weather is too hot. This will help increase the humidity around the plant.

Conclusion

Yes, you can plant many species of orchids outside, provided you live in a dry or coastal area with no winters. If you do live in a place with winters, it is best to keep the plant in a pot so you can easily transfer it indoors when the seasons start to change.

If you opt to keep your orchid outside, make sure you place it under a large tree or under a net that helps diffuse the sunlight. Orchids prefer dappled sunlight, and direct sunlight can cause sunburn.

Water the plant as needed by checking whether or not the potting medium is dry. You can also increase the humidity around the plant by misting it every morning and afternoon as needed.

Image: istockphoto.com / praisaeng

Áfrican violets are one the most popular houseplants worldwide. This is because they are relatively low-maintenance and they can live for decades under the right care.

This also means they need to be cleaned every once in a while, especially if they are kept in a place that accumulates dust and dirt. If you keep your plant on the floor in your house, it should come as no surprise that it will be dustier than plants kept higher up.

In this article, we will discuss the reasons you should clean your African violet’s leaves, and how to do it properly without damaging the plant.

Why do you need to clean the leaves of your African violet?

Just like all houseplants, the leaves on an African violet accumulate dust over time. You may think that dust on the leaves is completely harmless and that the plant will be completely fine if you never clean it off, but you would be wrong. The layer of dust on the leaves can become so thick that it can literally block the sunlight from reaching the surface of the leaves.

Aside from dust, water stains can also form on the leaves, and these are an eyesore.

Cleaning your African violet not only keeps your plant healthy; it can also keep it looking pretty and vibrant.

If you have recently treated the plant for pests or fed it, the neem oil or the fertilizer spray may have left a buildup of substances on the leaves that will make them look dull. This layer of fertilizer or oil also impedes the normal exchange of air through the leaves’ pores. 

If you have had a recent mealybug infestation on the plant, you will be familiar with the waxy substance these insects leave on the leaves and on the stems. This is also another reason to clean your African violet’s leaves.

What will I need to properly clean my African violet’s leaves?

The tools you will need to clean your African violet’s leaves will depend on the size of your plant. You need tools that will effectively wipe or brush off dust and soil from the plant’s leaves.

Ideally, find a tool that will no longer be used for any other purpose around the house. Keep the tool exclusively for cleaning your plant.

If you are using a used brush, for example, make sure you wash it beforehand so there are no chemicals or substances on it that may harm your African violet. Try to sterilize it before use as well. A simple solution to sterilize the tool is to dip it in a cup of rubbing alcohol and allow it to soak for 30 seconds. After 30 seconds, shake off the excess alcohol and leave the tool to dry for several minutes before using it on your plant.

Some examples of tools you can use are a clean piece of cloth, an old makeup brush, an old paintbrush, a kid’s toothbrush or a sponge.

How do you clean an African violet’s leaves?

Use a damp cloth to wipe off dust or grime on the plant’s leaves. Make sure you squeeze out the excess water from the cloth or sponge before using it to wipe down the leaves.

Only use lukewarm water, because cold or warm water may do the leaves more harm than good.

Hold each leaf with one hand as you wipe it with the other. This supports the leaf so that it does not tear or break off as you are cleaning it.

Be patient and clean every single leaf, one by one and slowly. Do not rush, because you could end up tearing the leaves due to your impatience.

If you want to dust the leaves quickly, use your makeup brush, paintbrush or toothbrush to brush off the surface dust. Brushing works better for removing loose soil on the foliage.

Can you wash an African violet, and how is it done?

Yes, you can wash your African violet. You may have heard that you should never get the leaves of an African violet wet because it can lead to brown spots. This is true, but those spots will not develop as long as you dry the plant immediately after washing it. If the plant is properly dried, you should not need to worry about washing it.

There are different techniques for washing your African violet, and we will discuss four of them.

Before we start, though, remember that this process is only advisable on fully-grown and mature plants. Refrain from washing young plants as they may not respond well to it.

Technique 1

Run the faucet in your sink until the water is lukewarm. Once the temperature is optimal, lower the pressure so that the water is only a trickle.

Take your plant and hold it at an angle as you slowly bring it under the stream of water. Rotate the plant to let the water wash over all the leaves, one by one.

Keep the plant angled at all times in order to avoid any water directly hitting the center of the plant, or the crown.

Using your fingers, rub or massage the leaves and the crown gently to remove the dirt. Take the leaf between your fingers so that you simultaneously clean the top and the bottom.

While you do need to be gentle with this process, try not to take too long because you want the plant to be under the water for as little time as possible while still cleaning it properly.

Technique 2

If your kitchen sink has a sprinkler, turn it on and bring the water to lukewarm.

When the water is at the right temperature, lower the pressure to a gentle spray.

Bring your plant to the sink and, also at an angle, run it under the spray of the sprinkler. Rotate the plant to make sure all of the leaves are washed.

Technique 3

For this method, you need some cling film to wrap around the base of the plant, as well as the entire pot.

To check that the pot and soil have been sealed properly, turn the pot over: no soil should fall out.

Fill a large bowl with lukewarm water and dunk the entire plant into the water.

Dunk all of the exposed part of the plant and make sure to keep the wrapped parts dry.

Swirl the leaves in the container of water for at least 10 seconds.

The dunking and swirling should be enough to remove most of the dust on the leaves.

Technique 4

This method requires a spray bottle filled with lukewarm water.

Wet the leaves of the plant with the spray and clean them by rubbing them with your fingers.

While using any of the techniques above, take the opportunity to clean the plant’s pot as well. Clean off any dirt and grime on the outside of the pot as well as on the rim, and wash the bottom of the pot to remove any buildup of dirt or loose soil.

How do you dry the African violet you have just washed?

Dry the African violet by blotting the excess water from the plant’s leaves with paper towels, a dry cloth or a sponge.

Do not forget to remove the excess water in the crown of the plant.

Be gentle with the blotting, just as you were when you wiped and washed the leaves.

Take note that the leaves are soft and delicate after washing, so be extra careful. Hold each leaf to support it as you blot it.

While you are waiting for the plant to dry, do not put it where the sun can hit it, because the droplets on the leaves will act like a magnifying glass when hit by light, and this will burn the leaves and leave brown spots on them. Allow the plant to dry completely in a dark place, ideally overnight.

After it has completely dried off, you can put it back in its proper place.

Conclusion

Cleaning your African violet leaves once a year is important because dust, dirt, and grime can block the sunlight and air from reaching the leaves, and this affects your plant’s overall health and aesthetic.

Wipe the leaves gently with a damp cloth to remove the dirt and dust that have accumulated on the surface. If there is minimal dust on the leaves, you can just use an old makeup or paint brush to brush off the dust. Be very gentle while handling the leaves, because they can be torn easily if you are not careful.

Image: istockphoto.com / kosobu

African violets are one of the most popular indoor plants in the United States. This is because they are relatively low-maintenance and hardy, as long as they are grown in the correct conditions.

They are favored because of their beautiful violet flowers, with even smaller yellow flowers in their centers.

Despite their popularity, there may still be some little-known facts about these plants that even most gardeners are unaware of.

In this article, we will discuss some facts about African violets, so if you are planning to add this plant to your collection, keep reading.

African violet facts

The scientific name of the African violet is Saintpaulia ionantha, and it is native to the African country of Tanzania.

It can grow about six to nine inches tall and six to nine inches wide.

This plant flowers for most of the year if it is being correctly cared for. The flower may be white, purple, pink, red or blue.

African violet growing conditions

African violets can survive in low light conditions but they will not be able to bloom as much as those grown in places with sufficient light.

These plants like their soil to be moist but not waterlogged. The best time to water them is when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch. Do not get the leaves wet, because that can lead to spotting. Because they come from the rainforests of Tanzania, they do best in humid environments.

Keep the plant away from areas of your home where drafts pass through.

African violets are not really violets

African violets belong to a completely different genus, Saintpaulia, whereas true violets belong to the genus Violaceae. African violets were so named because they have a striking resemblance to true violets.

There are up to 20 different species of Saintpaulia plants, but in the U.S there are two species that are most common, the S. confusa and the S. ionantha.

A wide array of color and shape variations have been cultivated from these two species, but the fact remains that none of them are true violets.

The African violet is one of the most popular houseplants in the United States

This plant has only increased in popularity since it was first discovered during the 1800s. Even if they seem to remind most people of their grandma’s house, with the increasing popularity of houseplants in general nowadays, the African violet has not gone out of style.

This is because of their many different flower colors, which can be blue, pink, red, white or purple. As mentioned above, they can continue blooming the entire year if they are healthy and happy, so you can enjoy the beautiful blooms even on gloomy winter days.

They are very easily grown indoors where the humidity and temperature are stable, so you do not have to worry about them constantly.

African violets are close to extinct in the wild

One heartbreaking fact about these plants is that, even though they have become household staples worldwide, African violets seem to be drastically dwindling in numbers in the wild.

The rainforests of Tanzania are really the only place they can grow naturally, and unfortunately, due to deforestation, some African violet species have been observed to remain in only one forest. Others are so rare that they can only be found on one mountain, and nowhere else.

Thankfully, there are agencies and governments that are going to great lengths to save the African violet, but thousands of other flora are on the brink of extinction every day.

African violets are a symbol of faithfulness

Because of the plant’s seemingly endless bloom, African violets are given as gifts to symbolize faithfulness, commitment and devotion.

They are a popular choice as a gift for mothers or grandmothers on Mothers’ day, or on other special occasions or events celebrating a milestone.

They can live for a long time

Typically, most houseplants live to be five years old, at most. African violets are one of the most enduring houseplants in the world. Some have been known to last up to 50 years when given optimal care. They can become an inherited plant if their owners have green thumbs.

As long as the owner knows exactly how to water the plant, takes it indoors when the outdoor temperature is chilly, and keeps the plant away from direct sunlight, an African violet can live to a ripe old age.

African violets are hardy plants

Even if they need a specific type of environment to survive, African violets are low-maintenance and tenacious.

Give the plant plenty of the right kind of light, which is indirect light. They need this light to survive and to bloom, so make sure they get enough.

As mentioned above, try not to get the leaves of your African violet wet, because they will become discolored and develop brown spots. Use a watering can with a long spout to water the base of the plant directly, without the risk of getting the leaves wet.

Remember that you only need to water the plant if the soil in the pot is dry to the touch.

In the wild, African violets do not grow in very much soil, since they are often found on rocky outcrops. If you use potting soil that is too dense and compact, it impedes the roots’ function and could cause them to die, which could then lead to root rot.

Use a potting mix that is well-draining, airy and porous. These will usually have materials mixed in that help with drainages, such as perlite and coarse sand.

If your African violet looks distressed, check your thermostat. If the temperature is lower than 60 degrees Fahrenheit, this is probably the problem. Do not subject the plant to either extreme of temperature, because this is not comfortable for the plant and can have serious consequences.

They are fine to keep around pets

One of the most important factors to consider when choosing plants for inside the house is their toxicity to both pets and children.

Often, when a plant has brightly-colored flowers, it poses a threat to those who ingest it. Thankfully, African violets are safe to keep around the house despite their vibrant flowers. Even so, try to keep the plant out of reach, especially if you fertilize it on a regular basis.

Conclusion

African violets are one of the most popular indoor plants worldwide. This is because they require little care and can live for a very long time. Their colorful flowers also bloom nearly year-round, so you can appreciate their beauty all the time.

These plants can be given as gifts to the special people in your life as a symbol of faithfulness.

They are also one of the safest plants to keep around pets and children because they are non-toxic.

There are few plants that would make a better choice to keep in your home than the African violet, so get one for yourself now!

Image: istockphoto.com / Anna Grigorjeva

Most of the time, African violets cannot survive outdoors. They are low-maintenance, hardy plants, but they need their ideal conditions to remain healthy. Unfortunately, most U.S. climates are unsuitable for African violets because the air is colder and drier than the rainforests of Africa, which is where the plant naturally grows.

The environments in the U.S. outdoors are too unpredictable to provide the ideal conditions that African violets need. This is why they are better off kept as indoor plants, where the humidity and temperature can be much more easily controlled to the plants’ liking.

In this article, we will discuss the reasons African violets are difficult to grow outside.

Can African violets be planted outside?

No, it is best not to take any chances and try to grow the plant outside because most environments in the U.S. are not stable enough to provide the plant with the conditions it needs to survive.

African violets are tropical plants native to the rainforests of Tanzania, so you must consider this when deciding where to grow them.

In Africa, the plant lives underneath the canopy of tall forest trees which protect it from the sun, and the environment has a relatively constant temperature and high humidity.

The outdoor environments in the U.S. are either too cold, too hot, too wet, have low humidity or get too much sunlight. These factors all play an important role in keeping an African violet healthy.

These plants are also prone to insect and pest infestations, so keeping them outside merely exposes them to more danger and damage.

Is there any place where an African violet can be grown outside?

Sadly, the only place these plants can truly thrive outdoors is in their natural habitat of Tanzania. Aside from Tanzania, there are very few places where growing African violets outdoors is possible. Other tropical locations may be too hot, while temperate regions may be too dry for the plant to thrive.

These plants prefer temperatures between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit in the morning, and 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit at night. They may be able to tolerate higher temperatures, but definitely not for long periods of time. This is why the stable temperatures inside your home are more suitable for the plant.

Another reason the plant cannot just grow outdoors anywhere is because it needs to be protected from harsh sunlight. The leaves will easily get sun damaged, especially if exposed to direct sunlight while they are still wet.

Why can other violets live outside?

Funnily enough, African violets are, in fact, not real violets. They belong to the Saintpaulia genus, while true violets belong to the Violaceae genus. African violets only got their name because they look very similar to true violets.

They have had different evolutionary paths which is why some true violets can be grown outdoors with no problem, but African violets have a tough time.

Is it possible to grow African violets outside part-time?

This is an ongoing debate among gardeners the world over. Some people swear that they have been able to do so successfully, while others state vehemently that this is impossible or, at least, that growing the plant outside part-time does not add any benefits to the process of growing them.

If you want to try growing your violet outdoors part-time, place it outside on a warm day, but make sure it only gets indirect light. Remember to take the plant back indoors when the temperature goes anywhere below 65 degrees Fahrenheit.

Regarding rainfall, African violets are not huge fans of too much water. If the weather only has light rain coming, then it is probably fine. It helps clean the plant’s foliage, as well as moistening the soil. Just make sure you take the plant back inside when the sun comes out again. As we mentioned above, the leaves can burn when exposed to sunlight, especially when they are still wet.

Even if you grow the African violets outdoors only part-time, and even if the conditions are perfect, you are still exposing your plants to insects and pests that have proved to be a serious health risk. However, if you really want to take your plant outside, make sure you keep it off the ground, inspect it for pests regularly and keep it far from other plants so that pests do not spread to them easily.

African violet plant care

African violets thrive in warm and humid conditions where they can get bright, indirect light. Avoid getting their leaves wet, because this can lead to the formation of brown spots. Prune the plant by regularly checking for dead leaves and foliage and removing them. The removal of dead or dying foliage also encourages the plant to grow better.

The removal of debris from the soil in the pot will lessen the chance of rot, because too much organic material on top of the soil locks moisture into the soil, which African violets do not like.

A perfect balance is required to get your African violets to grow optimally.

Place your plant near a window that does not let in harsh afternoon light. If the only window you have available brings in harsh light, you can diffuse it with a sheer curtain. In the winter, you can help your plant by getting a grow lamp. Place the lamp 12 to 15 inches away from its leaves.

Use a well-draining potting mix for your African violet. If the soil is too dense and compact, this can lead to the death of the roots and root rot. The entire plant will become waterlogged and the leaves will start to fall off. Avoid letting the plant stand in stagnant water for long periods of time by ensuring that the pot has drainage holes at the bottom to allow excess water to flow out.

Use room temperature water when watering African violets. Water the plant directly on the soil, using a small watering can with a long spout. Water the plant when the soil feels dry to the touch.

Conclusion

Most of the time, in the unpredictable U.S. climate, African violets can rarely survive for long when kept outside the house.

African violets are not true violets like those that have no problem growing outside. African violets got their name only because they closely resemble true violets, the latter belonging to a completely different genus.

African violets are native to the rainforests of Tanzania where the temperature and humidity are constant and where the light that reaches them has been diffused by the canopy of trees.

These ideal conditions are rarely met by the outdoors in the U.S., so you are better off keeping the plant indoors where the temperature and humidity are more stable and where it is not exposed to bright, direct sunlight.

Image: istockphoto.com / tamayalper

No matter how well you care for your orchid, its natural life cycle dictates that its flowers will eventually wilt and die. That is not to say, of course, that there are not other, more worrying reasons for an orchid to lose its flowers.

There are several problems your orchid may experience that could lead to the loss of its flowers. In this case, you will need to address the root of the problem to prevent the abnormal or premature loss of blooms in your orchid.

In this article, we discuss the circumstances that lead to flower loss in orchids, whether a normal or abnormal occurrence.

When does an orchid lose its flowers?

Normal life cycle

The orchid’s natural life cycle will see the growth of new leaves in the summer and fall. This is followed by a bloom spike in the late fall and winter, and then the flowers will bloom in the spring. The blooms can last from several days up to several months, depending on the type of orchid you are growing.

If the time between blooming and wilting follows the typical lifespan of the species you are growing, then there is no need for you to worry.

Cut the flower spike back to half an inch above the first node past the last bloom, and continue caring for your plant as normal. 

Abnormal occurrences

If the buds on your orchid fall off before flowering, the plant may be suffering from bud blast. Before the buds fall off, you will notice that they become dry and brittle.

Bud blast is the premature dropping of the buds from your orchid and is usually brought about by drastic changes in living conditions. A change in temperature around the plant or a drop in humidity can cause bud blast.

Bloom blast is pretty much the same occurrence, except the flowers fall off prematurely after they have already bloomed. This is also caused by sudden changes in the orchid’s living conditions.

What do you do when an orchid loses its flowers?

If the flower loss is due to the plant’s normal life cycle, wherein the blooms last some months until they are spent and fall off, check the flower spike to see whether it might still be productive.

If the spike is still green, that usually means it can produce more flowers in the future.

You can either leave the spike as is, or you can cut it back as low as between the bottom two nodes. This helps initiate the growth of buds and sets new flowers in as quickly as two to three months later.

The ability to bloom again from the same spike is dependent upon the type of orchid you are growing. There are varieties that will not bloom again from the same spike, so these are the ones in which you can cut back all the way to the base after all the flowers have fallen off.

You can remove the spike using a razor blade or pruning shears. Make sure you sterilize the blade or the shears by dipping them in a cup of rubbing alcohol for at least 30 seconds. Open and close the shears a couple of times to make sure all the nooks and crannies of the blades have been exposed to the rubbing alcohol. The reason for this sterilization is to kill any germs on the tools before cutting into the orchid spike.

After cutting off the spike, apply a fungicide directly on the cut surfaces, avoiding the roots. This is to protect the exposed areas from opportunistic fungi.

If you do not feel comfortable using synthetic chemical fungicides, you can also use an organic alternative such as ground cinnamon. Make sure the cut surfaces are completely covered with cinnamon.

When can I repot my orchid?

You may think when the roots of the orchid are tightly fitting in the pot that you need to repot it immediately. This is not always the case.

Orchids actually like their roots to be quite snug in their pot, but if the roots are starting to spill over the sides and top of the pot, that means the pot is much too small and needs to be replaced.

Wait until all of the flowers on the plant have fallen off and the plant is done blooming before you remove its roots from the old pot.

Choose a new, slightly larger pot and use a bark-based potting mix specially designed for orchids, rather than normal potting soil. Potting soil is too dense and compact, while orchids prefer a growing medium that allows more air circulation and water drainage.

The fleshy roots of an orchid are quite delicate, so make sure you handle them with care when you are removing the plant from its old pot.

Lay the crown of the orchid on top of the bark and then pack potting mix lightly around the roots.

How do I water and fertilize my orchid after it has lost its flowers?

Once your orchid has stopped flowering, it will go through a period of rest, or dormancy, before going back to actively producing flowers.

Some orchids have pseudobulbs, which are fleshy stems that store nutrients and water for the plant to consume. These varieties will not need as much water during their rest period as those that do not have pseudobulbs. They are prone to overwatering, and therefore also prone to root rot. Root rot happens when the roots are constantly wet or soaking in a soggy potting mix; if they cannot dry out between waterings, they will die. The dead roots will begin to rot and the rot will spread into the rest of the plant.

Orchid varieties that do not have pseudobulbs should also only be watered when the potting mix is dry to the touch. If the potting mix is still a bit damp, wait one or two days and check it again.

Significantly reduce the frequency of fertilizing the orchid, no matter what kind, until new leaves appear on the plant. When new leaves emerge, fertilize the orchid at full strength to encourage development during the growth period.

Conclusion

Orchids lose their flowers after blooming has run its course, and this is part of the plant’s natural life cycle. It is completely normal and should not be a cause for concern. As long as the wilting and dropping of the flowers coincide with the typical lifespan of the orchid, this is completely fine.

Unfortunately, the flowers can also fall off prematurely if the plant is experiencing bud or bloom blasts. This happens due to sudden changes in environmental factors such as the temperature or humidity around the plant.

Image: istockphoto.com / Maryviolet

The type of growing medium an orchid needs will depend on what type of orchid it is.

Most tropical orchids are epiphytes, which means they grow in the air rather than in soil. Their roots have a layer of white cells, called a velamen, that protects them from losing moisture while effectively absorbing water from the surrounding environment.

Terrestrial orchids, on the other hand, do grow in soil.

No matter what medium the orchid uses, it has to have good air circulation and should be well-draining. It should also have places that the orchid’s roots can properly cling to.

The most common growing media for orchids are one or a combination of fir bark, sphagnum moss, perlite, charcoal, coconut husk chunks or lava rock.

Of all the media, fir bark nuggets are the most widely used.

In this article, we will dive into what makes for a good orchid growing medium and what the different types of growing media are.

What are the different types of orchid potting media?

Fir bark nuggets

As we mentioned, fir bark is the most popular choice of orchid potting medium. This is probably because it is very affordable and does a great job as a potting medium.

It provides both good air circulation and good drainage, but as a consequence does not hold moisture very well, so you may need to water your orchid more frequently than if you were using other media. You will need to really soak the fir bark when watering the orchid.

You can get fir bark nuggets in small, medium or large sizes. Your choice of nugget size will also depend on the size of your orchid. If the roots are thin and fine, they will work best with small fir bark nuggets.

Because fir bark is an organic medium, you may need to replace it once a year because it will decompose quite quickly.

Sphagnum moss

Sphagnum moss is another popular choice among orchid growers. It provides great air circulation while retaining quite a lot of moisture, so it is a great choice for orchids that like more water than most.

The New Zealand variety of sphagnum moss is considered to be the best quality of all the different types available on the market.

One of the biggest downsides of using sphagnum moss is that it degrades faster than other media and tends to compress over time, affecting the airflow. You will need to repot the orchid once the medium starts to compress. One way to impede compression is by adding some inorganic materials, such as perlite, that do not get compressed.

Sphagnum moss is often used alongside other materials because of how well it retains moisture. It can be added as a top layer so that the medium underneath does not dry out as quickly.

Coconut husk

Just like sphagnum moss, coconut husk holds onto moisture quite well. It is a good choice for orchids that need more water than most, or for orchids that are grown in dry places.

Coconut husk chunks are lightweight and allow air to flow freely around the roots of the orchids.

Make sure you rinse the husks in water before use, to remove any salt residue.

Because it retains water so well, you may need to add some clay pebbles to the bottom of the pot for extra drainage.

Charcoal

Charcoal is an organic medium but compared to most, it lasts much longer. Keep in mind that it does not keep the water well, so it is best in places with high humidity.

Charcoal as a growing medium is sold in different chunk sizes, ranging from fine to large. Your choice of size will depend on the size of your orchid. 

Charcoal is said to eliminate odors, filter impurities, and help with the pH levels around the plant’s roots.

Lava rock

Lava rocks are also sold in different sizes for use as a growing medium. You should consider their ability to retain moisture when choosing a size: the bigger the rocks, the less moisture they are able to hold.

This is a fast-draining medium that does not rot or decompose, but it can also be quite heavy.

Avoid using lava rocks if you live in a place that has a cold climate because the rocks have a cooling effect and the lowered temperature may negatively affect your orchids.

Inorganic growing media

Perlite is one of the most popular inorganic growing media. It looks like small sugar granules, retains water well, and is lightweight. Perlite does not decompose or compress, which is why it is often added to organic media. It retains water so well that it should not be used alone.

Clay pebbles, or leca, and clay granules, or seramis, are also inorganic materials that can be used as growing media; they also do not compress or decompose.

Unlike perlite, they do not retain water that well, but they do provide great air circulation and good drainage. They are both often used at the bottom of the orchid potting medium to improve drainage.

What makes a good growing medium for orchids?

In their natural habitat, orchids find the right growing conditions, which include humidity, light, temperature, air circulation, drainage, and adequate nutrients.

Ideally, orchids should be in a place where humidity levels are between 60 to 80%, so the growing medium should be able to retain moisture to some extent.

Temperatures should not be lower than 15 degrees Fahrenheit, and the growing medium should be able to protect the plant.

The orchid should be able to attach to, or be supported by, the growing medium. The medium should also not be too dense or compact so that light can still penetrate it to reach the roots.

Recreate these living conditions in your pot with your potting medium, and your orchid should have no problem growing.

Conclusion

The most common growing media for orchids are fir bark, sphagnum moss, perlite, charcoal, coconut husk chunks or lava rock.  Some of these can be used alone, while others have to be combined with other growing media to make a customized potting mix that is best for your orchid.

The kind of medium you choose will depend on the climate where you live, the size of the orchid you are growing, the humidity, the temperature and the amount of water your orchid is going to need.

If you are still unsure as to which type of medium your orchid needs, ask at the local store and they might be able to recommend a potting mix for you.

Image: istockphoto.com / Ekaterina Fedulyeva

In an orchid’s natural life cycle, the flowers will fall off the stems after a certain time, the duration of which will depend on the type of orchid you are growing and environmental factors. However, there are instances when orchid flowers fall off sooner than they are supposed to.

If the flowers are falling off your orchid prematurely, the most common reasons are insufficient light, poor watering techniques, pests and diseases, temperature shock, or low humidity.

In this article, we will discuss the possible reasons your orchid flowers are falling off and how to remedy the situation, if needed.

Orchid life cycle

Before we get into why your orchid flowers are falling off, let us first discuss how an orchid produces flowers in the first place.

There are over 25,000 species of orchids around the world. Each species has its own way of propagating, with an assortment of pollinators ranging from insects to small mammals. These plants have become quite popular because their flowers are beautiful and last a relatively long time. 

The orchid plant starts with a seed. These seeds come from mature plants that have been pollinated successfully, and it can take up to several years for some orchids to become fully grown.

When the seed is planted, it will germinate and begin to grow. The seed should be provided with light, moisture, and warmth. If the germination is successful, the seed should sprout with no problem. Depending on the species, this can take anywhere between two to six months.

In the wild, orchids do not germinate without the help of fungi. The fungi will penetrate the cell walls of the seed, and the seed will then receive nutrients from the fungi and use these to grow.

If you do not have the time to wait for the seed to germinate, you can always just buy flasked orchid seedlings and skip the germination process altogether.

The orchid will fully mature in the next three to five years. It starts by growing a leaf so that it can absorb light and photosynthesize. Over time, the roots, stalk and more leaves will develop.

Once the plant is stable and mature, it can produce buds. These buds will bloom, and soon the orchid is ready to reproduce. An orchid flower contains both female and male reproductive organs.

Because orchids are so beautiful, their colors and shapes attract not only humans but also pollinate animals and insects. The flowers mimic nectar-holding flowers to trick birds and insects into reaching into their petals, effectively spreading their pollen to nearby orchids.

After pollination, the petals will close and the flower will focus on developing the seed pod. Depending on the species, this can take from a week to a year. When the pod has fully developed, the flower will drop to the ground and then the reproduction process will start again.

Why are the flowers on my orchid falling off?

Not enough light

If you have recently brought an orchid home from a nursery where it was kept under ideal conditions, you may notice the flowers starting to fall after a few days of its relocation.

The most likely reason for this is that the plant is not getting enough light. An orchid needs bright, indirect light to thrive, and its flowers will fall off if it gets too little light.

In order to remedy this, place the plant near an east- or west-facing window, but make sure the light is not direct. If you need to diffuse the light coming in from the window, use a sheer curtain.

Poor watering techniques

Both underwatering and overwatering can result in the premature dropping of your orchid’s flowers.

If you are underwatering it, the roots will become brittle, dry and gray. The flowers will soon fall off due to dehydration.

If you are overwatering your orchid, it can lead to root rot. This will also cause a general decline in your plant’s health and the flowers will fall off.

In order to avoid these problems, make sure you are watering your orchid correctly. You will know the right time to water it by touching the top of the potting medium. If it feels dry, you need to water the plant. If it still feels quite damp, wait one or two days and check it again.

Use pots that have drainage holes at the bottom so that if you accidentally overwater the orchid, the excess water will simply flow out of the holes at the bottom.

Pests and diseases

Fungal diseases can also cause an orchid’s flowers to fall off. The most common pests that attack orchids are caterpillars, slugs, snails, thrips and whiteflies. These insects will damage the flowers and they will eventually fall off.

You can treat the plant with fungicidal spray to stop the symptoms.

Temperature shock

Temperature shock can also cause the orchid’s flowers to drop off. Drastic changes in temperature cause bud blast, which is when the flowers fall off.

Keep the temperature around your orchid between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Check the placement of your plant in the house and make sure there are no warm or cold vents blowing drafts in the direction of the plant. 

Low humidity

Orchids are tropical plants and they like a humid environment. The humidity inside most houses is usually lower than an orchid needs. This is even more apparent during the winter when the air is driest. The dry air causes the flowers to fall off, so you may need to artificially increase the humidity around the plant.

You can do this by using a pebble tray. Simply place pebbles on a tray, pour some water over them, and stand the plant’s pot on top of the pebbles. You can also place your plants close to one another to create a microclimate or, if your budget allows, you can purchase a humidifier to increase the humidity.

Conclusion

The flowers are falling off your orchid because there is an environmental factor that is causing the plant stress.

This stress may be caused by insufficient light, poor watering techniques, pests and diseases, temperature shock or low humidity.

To prevent the flowers on your orchid from falling off, you need to try, as much as possible, to simulate the living conditions of the orchid in its natural habitat.

As long as your orchid is not stressed and is content under your care, it is unlikely that its flowers will fall off.

Image: istockphoto.com / Jamadagni Pariti

An orchid spike is also known as a flower spike or flower stem. Orchids grow new spikes at least once a year, and this is the part of the orchid from which the flowers grow. The spike will have horizontal bands that wrap around it, called nodes. These are where new stems or flowers will grow from.

When the spike is done blooming and all the flowers have fallen off, it will start to shrivel up and die. The plant will then go into a vegetative state while it focuses on growing new roots and leaves. When the orchid is ready, it will bloom again and new spikes will start to emerge.

In this article, we will discuss more about orchid spikes and what they do for the plant.

How do you identify an orchid spike?

Orchid spikes can look a lot like the aerial roots of the orchid when they have just started to grow. Novice gardeners may have a difficult time differentiating these two orchid parts in the beginning, but the longer you handle orchids, the easier it will become to tell them apart.

Flower spikes

Flower spikes can usually be seen on the sides of the orchid plant, growing out from between the plant’s leaves. They are quite pointy and thin and the tip of the spike is shaped like a mitten.

Spikes are much greener than orchid roots, and also much less glossy.

For some species of orchids, the spikes appear in the fall and winter.

As spikes grow, they grow in the direction of the nearest source of light. They take some time to develop fully; usually somewhere between two and three months. The rate at which they grow depends on the type of orchid, the light available, the temperature and the humidity. The more light around the orchid plant, the faster the spike will grow.

Aerial roots

Aerial roots usually grow from the front or the back of the axis. They are rounder and thicker than orchid spikes. Even the tip of the root is rounded, not pointed like the spike’s tip, and the roots are glossier than the spikes.

The roots grow from the plant all year round, and do not necessarily grow in any particular direction.

What does it mean if an orchid spike stops growing?

Heat stress

Orchids may stop blooming if the temperature is too high. The elevated temperature causes heat stress due to an imbalance in transpiration.

Even if it seems to make sense, do not compensate for the hot temperature by pouring water into the orchid’s pot. The best way to deal with heat stress is by watering the orchid normally and simply lowering the temperature around the plant.

You will know that an orchid has heat stress when the plant is exposed to too much light and the leaves start to turn yellow. The leaves will start to wither and feel warm to the touch. There will be visible sun damage, in the form of reddish-purple spots on the leaves and pseudobulbs. The tips of the leaves and roots will turn brown.

Prevention of heat stress is worth the effort because treating this condition is even harder work.
Make sure you water the plant every day in the summer, especially on particularly hot stretches of days. If the temperature is higher than normal, water the plant more often than normal. Make sure the airflow and humidity are high enough that the plant absorbs water as effectively as possible. Use a humidifier to increase the humidity if you need to.

Treat heat stress by applying diluted fertilizer to the plant. Make sure you flush out any buildup of mineral salts in the potting medium with water every couple of months. Also keep an eye out for pests.

Root rot

Another reason your orchid spike is not growing maybe root rot. Root rot often occurs when the plant’s caretaker becomes overzealous with watering and ends up giving the plant more water, more often than it needs. When the plant has root rot, the roots are damaged and can no longer effectively absorb water and nutrients. Because it is lacking nutrients, the orchid spike can no longer grow or produce flowers.

The signs of root rot in orchids include soft, withered leaves on a healthy-looking plant, and withered, brittle roots.

Avoid root rot by using a potting mix that makes the plant less susceptible to overwatering and thus to root rot.

Never allow the soil in the pot to become waterlogged or soggy; only water the plant when the medium feels dry to the touch. If the potting medium still feels a bit damp, wait one or two days and check it again.

Does an orchid grow new spikes?

Yes, your orchid will grow new spikes at least once a year. They will produce flowers when they are fully mature, and they will wither and die once their job of producing flowers is done.

The plant will then go through a vegetative state wherein no flowers are produced while it focuses on growing new leaves and roots.

How do I encourage the orchid to grow a new spike?

You can help your orchid by placing it in a spot where it can get bright, indirect light, and fertilize it once a month with a diluted fertilizer designed specifically for orchids.

Remove the withered spike using sterilized pruning shears, cutting an inch above the base.

Water the plant when it needs to be watered, which is whenever the potting medium dries out.

Before you induce spiking, wait for the new leaf to grow, which will be larger than the leaves that are already present. When you see the new leaf, you can induce spiking.

Winter is the best time to induce flowering because orchids thrive in lower temperatures.

Do not rotate the pot in the sunlight, because you will disorient the spike which always grows in the direction of the closest source of light.

Conclusion

An orchid spike is also called the flower spike or stem of the orchid plant. On it, there are nodes which are the points from which new stems or flowers will grow.

Orchid spikes are usually found on the sides of the plant, growing out from between the leaves. They can sometimes be confused with the orchid’s aerial roots, but they are thinner, flatter and greener than the roots. They have a mitten-shaped tip due to their little triangular bumps, while roots have round tips.

Orchid spikes can have trouble growing and flowering if they experience heat stress or root rot.

You can prune off a dead or dying spike if you want a new spike to grow out. Help induce the growth of a new spike by fertilizing the plant every month, watering it adequately, lowering the temperature and making sure the plant gets as much bright, indirect light as it needs.

Image: istockphoto.com / RenataKa

To make your orchid grow a new spike, you need to fertilize the plant every month with a fertilizer specifically for orchids. Cut off the old flower spike using sterilized pruning shears. Cut between the second and third nodes, counting from the bottom. You can also cut the spike half an inch from the base of the plant; this results in better blooms and grows stronger roots. Water the plant when it needs to be watered, which is whenever the potting medium dries out.

Wait until a new leaf has grown before you induce spiking. A new leaf indicates that the plant has recovered and is ready to bloom again.

Place the plant in an area with a lower room temperature – around 55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit at night. New spikes tend to grow better during the winter. Make sure the plant still gets plenty of bright, indirect light in that spot.

The new spike should appear after about a month, and after a few months, when it is around five inches tall, you can support it with a bamboo stake.

Keep watering the plant as necessary and the spike should have no problem maturing.

In this article, we will discuss more how to properly grow a new spike on your orchid.

Flower spikes

When people talk about orchid stems, they are often referring to orchid spikes.

Flower or orchid spikes are the part of the plant from which the buds and flowers grow.

In case you accidentally cut or break off an orchid spike, there is no need to worry; it does not mean that your orchid will never flower again.

If you accidentally break off a spike, you can save the flower by placing the spike in a vase with water. The lower part of the spike that is still connected to the base of the plant will need to be cut as close to the base as possible so that new growth can replace it.

You can also choose to keep the lower half of the broken spike attached to the plant if you prefer not to wait too long for new blooms. As long as the nodes on the spike are still healthy, the orchid will likely bloom again. But if the spike dies back, it is best to cut it down to the base of the plant and wait for a new spike to grow.

Cutting an orchid spike

It is advisable to cut the spike after all the flowers on that spike have fallen off. The plant is better off focusing its nutrients and energy on growing new spikes, leaves and flowers.

When is the right time to cut a spike?

Even if all your orchid plant has left is the one spike, you can rest assured you will get at least a few months’ worth of flowers. In some orchids, new blooms can keep appearing even after the flowers on the spike have already opened.

Only cut the flower spike after the flowers have died and when no new growth is appearing.

How do you make an orchid grow a new spike?

As mentioned above, if there is no more growth on the spike, that means it is time to cut it off. The best place to cut the spike is half an inch above the last node before the section where the flowers first appeared.

Sterilize your pruning shears or razor blade by dipping them in a cup of rubbing alcohol. Make sure you open and close the blades of the shears a few times to ensure that all the nooks and crannies come into contact with the rubbing alcohol. Let the shears or blade air dry on a paper towel for a few minutes; then you can cut the spike.

Sometimes, if the spike has dried out naturally, you can pull it off of the plant quite easily with little to no resistance.

You also need to cut the entire spike if your orchid looks unhealthy or is showing signs of distress. By cutting the spike off, the plant will concentrate on recovering and growing new leaves and blooms.

You can make sure that your orchid grows a new spike by giving it adequate water, but also take care not to overwater it. You will know whether it is time to water the orchid by touching the potting medium. If the medium is dry, water the orchid, but if the potting medium is still damp, wait one or two days before checking it again.

The humidity around the orchid should be between 50 and 70%. You can increase the humidity by misting the plant with a fine spray a few times a week, keeping your plants close to each other to create a microclimate, placing a pebble tray below the orchid’s pot, or simply using a humidifier to do the work for you.

Fertilize the orchid once a week if there are new growths on it, reducing the frequency as the growths become older. When the orchid is dormant, do not feed them.

Make sure the orchid gets plenty of sunlight. Contrary to popular belief, orchids love a lot of light, as long as it is indirect. They need 12 hours of indirect sunlight a day in order to bloom properly. If you do not get that much natural light where you live, you can always buy a grow light to help your plant out.

Orchids like temperatures between 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

Make sure that any pruning tools you use on your orchids are sterilized so that diseases are not passed from infected plants to healthy ones.

Conclusion

Flower spikes are the parts of the orchid plant from which the flower buds grow.

If a spike on your orchid breaks off accidentally or if it dries out naturally, you may need to cut off the remaining half of the spike or pull off the dried spike to induce the growth of a new one.

You can encourage the growth of a new spike by cutting off the spike between the second and third node from the base of the plant. Make sure you water the plant adequately, keep the humidity and temperature at the ideal levels, provide at least 12 hours of indirect sunlight every day, and feed the plant weekly while the spike is growing, tapering the feeding as it matures.

Image: istockphoto.com / Valeriy_G

When new growth appears on your orchid plant, it can be tricky to identify whether the growth is a flower spike or an orchid root.

Orchid roots usually have green, rounded tips and they will start to develop a silvery or whitish covering as they grow.

Orchid spikes are a lot greener than orchid roots, and have flatter, mitten-shaped tips. Even as the spike grows longer, it remains constantly green until it reaches its full length. The spikes usually emerge from between the plant’s leaves, while roots grow from the center of the plant.

In this article, we will discuss the differences between orchid spikes and roots.

What are the differences between an orchid spike and an orchid root?

When you are a novice orchid grower, telling an orchid spike from a root can be quite difficult, but know that the longer you care for these plants and the more experience you have handling them, the easier it will get.

When the growth is just protruding from the base of the plant, the root is rounder and will have a more uniform tip, while the orchid spike is much greener and will not have as round a tip as the root.

The length and shape of the orchid spike is pretty consistent until you get to the end of the spike, where the tip will look like a mitten. The hard, triangular bumps at the tip are the ones that give the spike its “mitten” shape.

An orchid root is softer, rounder and will be a lighter shade of green. The orchid’s roots will also tend to change color when watered.

Orchid spikes develop between the leaves of the orchid, usually opposite the old spike. In the beginning, the spike will be thick and hard, but it will become more tender, fine and slim over time.

What should I do as the orchid spike grows?

Instinctively, you will want to rotate the plant every couple of days once you see a flower spike growing, but it is advisable not to do so. This is because the spike is going to want to grow toward the light source, so if you keep turning the plant round, it will bend all sorts of ways to grow in different directions as you rotate it. The shape of the spike will then not be as attractive as it would otherwise be.

To guide the spike in the shape and direction you want it to grow, you can try inserting a bamboo stake into the plant’s pot and clip the spike to the stake as the spike grows. Just make sure that you do not clip the spike to the stake too early, because you might end up snapping the spike off in your enthusiasm. Wait until the spike is a few inches long, and it will be much easier to bend it to your will.

As the orchid spike grows, clip it with a second orchid clip, or just take the first orchid clip and move it up the stake to support the spike.

Clipping the spike to a stake is only one option; you can also let the spike grow out with no support so that it arches outward. This is a great option if you keep your orchid in a spot with plenty of space around it.

How long does it take to grow an orchid spike?

The time required for an orchid spike to grow is dependent on the type of orchid. For the Phalaenopsis orchid, for example, it will take the spike around two to three months to fully develop from a little bump on the side of the stem.

Exposing the plant to plenty of sun can also affect the speed of growth, since promoting photosynthesis often helps the plant grow faster.

Will cutting a spike induce root growth?

Yes, cutting a spike back as close as you can to a node will induce the plant to focus more on root growth because it knows that root growth is imperative to its maturation.

You can prune the spike off or just leave it alone until it turns brown and dries out. The spike will be much easier to break off when this happens. Some people prefer this method of getting rid of a spike because it does not leave an open wound on the plant. Open wounds can lead to possible problems in the future if not correctly cared for.

While the orchid spike is drying up, the plant will focus its energy on new growth, but the transfer of energy and resources will not be as instantaneous as in the case of cutting the spike off. It may take longer to wait for the spike to dry out, but when you think about it, this is how orchids live and die in the wild, so you are essentially just imitating its natural life cycle.

There are those that believe letting an orchid spike turn brown will lead to the spike rotting, but as long as you are careful and use sterilized tools, your plant will be completely fine.

When do I leave the orchid spike on the plant?

When all of the flowers have fallen off of the spike, it will usually shrivel naturally. The tip of the stem will turn brown, and the brown color will move down the stem as the plant slowly redirects its energy from the dying stem to more worthwhile endeavors. Remember that it will not harm the orchid if you leave the spike on the plant to undergo its natural process.

You must still be on the lookout for possible bacterial or fungal infections on the dying orchid spike. If this happens, cut the spike back to the first node. This is so that bacteria or fungi cannot spread to the main stem of the plant. If you need to remove the entire spike, do so because the health of the entire plant is more important.

If the spike becomes completely dry, it will be easy to just pull off of the plant.

Conclusion

An orchid spike is a plant stem from which new leaves and flowers will grow, while the orchid root is what the plant uses to absorb nutrients and water from the potting medium or from the air around it.

An orchid spike is much greener and firmer than an orchid root when touched. It has a distinct mitten-shaped tip because of the triangular bumps on it. An orchid root is less green and is rounder at the tip than the orchid spike.

The orchid spike grows out from between the leaves of the orchid, while the root will grow out from the center of the plant.

Image: istockphoto.com / Olgaviare