Yes, succulents need to be planted in soil that has great drainage or in a container or pot that has drainage holes at the bottom.
In their natural habitat, succulents grow in sandy soil. It allows water to drain quickly and does not soak the plant’s roots. It also rains very little in their natural habitats, so these plants have to be able to store plenty of water in their bodies and leaves.
They are not built to have perpetually wet soil around their roots. Exposing their roots to moisture for extended periods of time will lead to root rot as well as bacterial or fungal problems that can ultimately affect the entire plant, often leading to death. Providing good drainage for succulents is very easy and will help the plants survive much longer.
Why is it important to use a pot with a drainage hole?
It is possible to use a pot without a drainage hole for your succulents, but you have to always be precise about watering because it is very easy to overwater.
If you are a beginner, it is better to use pots with drainage holes because you are most likely still trying to learn how to properly water your plants. If the pots have drainage holes, it is almost impossible to overwater your plants unless you do it multiple times a week.
A pot with drainage holes allows any excess water to flow out instead of settling in the soil and making your plant’s roots susceptible to root rot.
If your pots do not have holes, ask someone who knows how to handle a drill to make holes at the bottom of your pots. If you are using a glass container, you can place a layer of pebbles or charcoal at the very bottom to help drain and absorb the excess water.
Succulents prefer to be planted in ceramic or terracotta pots because they are porous and allow water to evaporate faster than glass or plastic pots.
What soil should I use for better drainage?
As mentioned above, succulent roots will rot if they are allowed to sit in wet soil for too long. Aside from using a pot with drainage holes, planting your succulents in fast draining soil is also beneficial. Succulents predominantly grow in arid deserts so they are used to living on sandy soil. Simulating this in your garden will be greatly appreciated by your succulents.
There is commercially available cactus soil mix that you can use, or you can add sand, perlite, or pumice for even more efficient draining. These added components will make the soil more airy and porous so water drains through quickly but the roots also have access to all the oxygen they need.
Always check the soil before watering.
Succulent water needs differ depending on the type of succulent you have. Some plants like to be watered more than others. No matter what succulent you might have, the easiest way to determine whether it needs to be watered again is by touching the soil in the pot.
If it looks dry, touch it with your finger, and burrow it for a few inches if you need to. If the top inch of soil is dry, it is time to water.
You can start by watering your succulent every two weeks. Observe, and then adjust accordingly. If you think two weeks is too long between waterings, try doing it every 12 days and observe again. Keep doing this until you figure out the correct schedule for your plants.
What if my succulents get caught in the rain?
Succulents naturally grow in places with little to no rainfall. If you live in an area that has more than 20 inches of rain in a year, you should move your potted succulents under your house’s eaves. You can place large umbrellas in concrete bases around your garden so the plants do not get soaked with water.
Make sure that water runoff does not go towards your garden beds and potted plants. If you have plants in low-lying areas, it is best to replant them elsewhere to avoid puddles. You can also topdress the soil around the plants with pumice to deal with the excess moisture.
Is there a specific type of water I should use for succulents?
The best water for most succulents, and plants in general, is rain water or distilled water. Tap water often contains calcium or magnesium that builds up in the soil and appears on the plant’s leaves as white dots. During the rainy season, collect rainwater in large containers so you can use it throughout the rest of the year.
Tips for watering succulents
Do not use spray bottles when watering succulents because this will just wet the plant’s leaves. Succulents absorb water through their roots in the ground. You should use a small watering can and pour the water directly onto the soil at the base of your plant.
Do not water the leaves on top of the plant. If it is left for too long, it can cause the leaves to rot.
Do not water your succulents when it rains or when the weather is too hot.
Do not water during the afternoon; the best time to water your plants is in the early morning.
Use rainwater, distilled water, or filtered water on your succulents.
Conclusion
Yes, succulents need drainage in the form of well-draining soil and a container that has drainage holes at the bottom. Good drainage is important for succulents because when their roots are left to soak in wet soil for too long, they can develop root rot and become susceptible to bacterial and fungal problems. All these conditions can affect the rest of the plant over time and even lead to death.
A strict watering schedule should be followed so you do not overwater your plants. As long as you stick to it, you should have no problem keeping your succulents healthy and happy.
Bugs on succulents are unsightly and put your plants in great danger. These pests cannot be avoided, especially if you are cultivating succulents outdoors along with other kinds of plants. In this article, get to know common bugs that attack and feed on succulents, as well as treatment options to eradicate them for good.
Common Types of Bugs on Succulents
These are the most common types of bugs on succulents:
1. Mealybugs
Scientific name: Pseudococcidae
Size: 1/20 to ⅕ of an inch
Color: white, light pink, bright yellow-green
Mealybugs are soft-bodied, wingless, plant-sucking pests that are perennial problems in gardens and greenhouses. They appear as white cottony masses on the stems and leaves of succulents. They feed on the plants by sucking and drawing sap out of the tissues.
An extreme infestation could cause leaf yellowing and curling, making the plants eventually weaken. These pests produce honeydew, which makes the plants sticky and encourages the growth of sooty mold.
How to control mealybugs:
Control these bugs by dabbing them with rubbing alcohol using a cotton swab or paintbrush. It will kill them without harming the plants. Remove the dead bugs at once. You can also wash affected plants with insect-killing soap, but use it sparingly to prevent buildup.
You may also opt to use pesticides if there is a heavy infestation of mealybugs. Beneficial insects like ladybugs, lacewings, and mealybug destroyers also effectively control bugs on succulents.
If there is evident damage such as black spots but no trace of mealybugs, it could be that they are lurking in the roots. Remove the plants from their potting and treat the roots with the solutions mentioned above before repotting. The leaves may die off, but the plants will most likely recover, especially if the infestation is detected early.
2. Spider Mites
Scientific name: Tetranychidae
Size: 0.04 inches (less than one mm)
Color: red, brown, yellow, green
Spider mites are very tiny pests. They are not insects, but a type of arachnid and a relative of spiders and scorpions. There are around 1,200 species. They thrive on the undersides of leaves, spinning protective silk webs and feeding on the sweet sap of succulents.
You will know that your plants are infected with these pests if you notice yellow and rust-colored spots that look like scars. These scars can cause the plants to become weak, making them more prone to other infections.
How to control spider mites:
Scrape or remove these pests from your plants once you notice white webs and white spots on your plants. You may have to isolate the affected plants. Neem oil naturally repels spider mites and other natural pests.
You may have to apply water pressure on outdoor succulents to remove the mites from the plants. For heavy infestations, you can also apply systemic pesticides to eradicate the pests, but this should only be a last resort.
3. Fungus Gnats
Scientific name: Sciaridae
Size: 1/16 to ⅛ of an inch (1.5 to 3 mm)
Color: grayish-black with gray or transparent wings
Fungus gnats do not cause serious damage, but they can be very annoying, especially if your plants are in an indoor terrarium. Large numbers of fungus gnat larvae can stunt plant growth because they thrive on the roots. These pests are attracted to moist soil and start to breed once they settle on the soil and plants.
How to control fungus gnats:
Prevent these pests from invading your plants by placing top dressing such as pebbles, decorative sand, or bonsai-quality lava rocks on top of the soil. These materials cover the layer of soil that tends to attract the gnats. You can also coat your plants with an organic bug killer.
Let the soil dry out completely between waterings so it won’t stay damp and moist. Sticky insect traps can also help catch the gnats. Only use pesticides if there is an extreme infestation.
4. Scale
Scientific name: Coccoidea
Size: ¼ inch long
Color: brown, cottony white
Scale insects may appear like small, circular bumps about the size of a pinhead. They produce protective scale-like coverings, thus, their name. The two main types are armored and soft. Armored scales have hard coverings while soft scales have soft, waxy coverings.
These pests feed on plant juices by sucking the leaves and stems of succulents. As they continually feed on the sap, the succulent turns yellow and eventually withers and dies if not treated promptly. Soft scales also excrete honeydew, which attracts the growth of black sooty mold.
How to control scale insects:
If you notice a few of these insects, scrape them off using your fingernails or tweezers. Pruning and removing affected branches can also help control them. You can try dabbing these insects with rubbing alcohol using a cotton swab to dissolve the shells, which will eventually kill them.
Spraying these pests with a soapy water mixture is another good treatment option. You can also release ladybugs or mealybug destroyers that feed on soft-bodied scale insects.
When treating bugs on succulents, systemic and contact pesticides and insecticides should only be used as a last resort. While these commercial pesticides are highly effective, they are potentially toxic and could harm plants, animals, and the environment. Be sure to use them with extreme caution and care.
Conclusion
Succulent owners tend to pamper their plants, but this pampering can become the very reason why pests invade succulents. Overwatering can attract bugs to succulents, such as fungus gnats which are strongly drawn to moist soil.
Mealybugs and scale could also ravage plants since they feed on the juice or sap of succulent leaves. You can effectively control these pests by spraying soapy water or rubbing alcohol on the affected areas. Commercial pesticides should only be used as a last resort.
Proper care and maintenance of succulents ensure that they grow healthy and produce vibrant colors and flowers. However, pests may be lurking in them without your knowledge. A common pest that is known to invade succulents is mealybugs. These insects multiply rapidly and thrive in moist and warm habitats.
Mealybugs on Succulents: Basic Information and Life Cycle
Mealybugs are small, oval-shaped, slow-moving insects of the family Pseudococcidae. They are often found on succulents and foliage plants, but rarely on flowering or bedding plants. These insects are related to scales; the citrus mealybug is considered the most damaging species.
If you notice cottony-like things in your plants, that means you have a mealybug infestation.
These pink, soft-bodied insects usually measure from 1/20 to ⅕ of an inch long, which makes them hard to spot without a microscope. They are elongated and segmented with waxy filaments, giving the impression that they have tails. These pests are covered with white or grey cottony wax and are sometimes mistaken as cottony cushion scales or wooly aphids.
However, mealybugs retain their legs throughout their life cycle, unlike their close relatives, the scales.
Life Cycle
Mealybugs lay around 600 small, yellow eggs in a protective cottony mass. In places with high temperatures, they lay fewer eggs. Long-tailed mealybugs do not lay eggs but give birth to live young, just like aphids. After females lay eggs over a period of 5 to 10 days, they die.
Young females undergo three stages. They are mobile during their entire life cycle, while the nymphs, or immature males, also called crawlers, settle and spin a white waxy cocoon. The adult males are small and winged. They only live for a few days; a new generation develops every one to three months, depending on the temperature.
Mealybugs live off a plant’s juices or sap and eat through the leaves. The open wounds make succulents prone to bacterial and fungal diseases. The leaves become distorted, especially at the center part. These pests thrive in warm, moist environments, hiding deep between your rosette succulent leaves.
How do I get rid of mealybugs on succulents?
These are the things that you should do to get rid of mealybugs on your succulents:
First, if you notice mealybugs on your plants, you must quarantine them and move them away from other plants. Be sure to inspect the healthy plants for signs of mealybugs.
Next, clean your infected plants by removing them from their pots and rinsing them under a strong stream of water. The pots should also be cleaned with hot, soapy water. Allow some time for the plants and pots to dry before replanting them with new soil. Throw away the old soil.
Kill any remaining mealybugs in your plants. Use a homemade or DIY spray with one of the following ingredients:
Isopropyl rubbing alcohol
The use of this ingredient is considered the most effective treatment against mealybugs, as well as aphids and spider mites. Dilute it with water and spray it on the plants thoroughly. The pests will turn brown and die, and the isopropyl rubbing alcohol won’t damage the plants since it evaporates in a few minutes. Repeat the procedure weekly until you do not see mealybugs anymore.
Neem oil and soap mixture
This mixture is a potent combination that kills all stages of mealybugs on contact. Simply mix 5% neem oil with water and add a few drops of liquid soap. Spray the mixture liberally on your plants. You can also spray the mixture in the soil as some bugs and eggs may be lurking there.
Do not use concentrated neem oil as it might burn the succulents. You can dab the mixture in a Q-tip or paintbrush and apply it to the plants. After a while, rinse the plants with water to wash off the dead bugs.
Make sure that you do not place the treated plants out in the full sun to avoid watermarks or sunburn. Keep them in the shade or out of direct sunlight for at least a few days.
Finally, check the treated plants and repeat the process for a few days to see if there are still pests on them. Spray again after a week as a preventative measure. If you do not see traces of the bugs, you can place the plants back in their original spot in your garden or indoors and continue to monitor them.
Other Ways to Get Rid of Mealybugs on Succulents
Here are other ways to eradicate mealybugs on succulents:
By introducing predatory insects
While there are harmful pests, some insects are beneficial for plants. These insects include ladybugs, lacewings, and mealybug destroyers, which are natural predators of mealybugs. These insects are often used for garden and greenhouse infestations.
By using a homemade insect spray
You can concoct a homemade, DIY insect spray that is both useful and cost-effective. Simply combine one garlic bulb, one small onion, and one teaspoon of cayenne pepper in a blender and process it into a paste. Next, mix the paste into one quart of water and steep for at least an hour. Strain through a cheesecloth and add one tablespoon of liquid dish soap.
Mix the solution well. This can be stored for at least a week in the fridge. Spray this homemade insect spray at the bugs liberally and repeat the process until they are completely eradicated.
By using synthetic chemical pesticides
Synthetic chemical pesticides like imidacloprid may also be used, but take extreme caution during handling and application. These pesticides have varying degrees of toxicity to humans and pets.
Conclusion
Sickly succulents with unsightly marks or spots should be a cause for immediate concern, since these are clear signs of pest infestation. Mealybugs on succulents suck the sap out of your plants, weakening them and making them vulnerable to diseases.
Affected plants should be isolated and treated with rubbing alcohol or a neem oil and soap mixture. Synthetic pesticides can be used for extreme infestations, but in moderate cases, those mentioned earlier should work just as effectively.
Water propagating a succulent is when you remove a cutting or a leaf from a plant and place it in water until roots form. This is an easy way to grow more of the same succulent quickly and for free. If you want to learn more about how to propagate your succulents in water, keep on reading.
What is water propagation?
Water propagation is when you use water as a medium to grow roots on your succulent cuttings. You may think that letting your succulents sit in water will result in root rot, just like when you overwater your plants, but surprisingly, this is not the case.
Some people find water propagation much easier than the soil and dry methods. The results appear faster and are more successful. But ultimately, whatever method you are comfortable with and has given you fruitful results is what you should stick with.
Why do succulent cuttings not rot when placed in water?
There is no clear cut answer as to why succulent cuttings do not get root rot while an overwatered plant in soil does. But the theory most people believe is that root rot is not caused by the water in the soil, but instead by pathogens in the soil itself. The water simply acts as a vessel to make the pathogens enter the plant more quickly than if there had been no water at all.
When new cuttings are placed in water, they are not exposed to any pathogens because of the absence of soil as a medium.
How to water propagate succulents using stem cuttings
Using stem cuttings to propagate succulents is an easy way to add to your collection and make sure any succulents used for decoration are not wasted. Take note that these methods may not always work, but if you follow the process correctly, the chances of it working will increase greatly.
First, you have to choose a succulent you wish to propagate. It is ideal to do propagation during the winter, so take the cuttings right after the plant’s bloom period is over. If you do not want to wait, you can just choose a plant that has not bloomed yet.
Using clean, sharp scissors, cut off a two to four-inch cutting that has at least two leaves. Remove any bottom leaves on the cutting to expose the stem.
Leave the cuttings in an empty tray in a well-lit area for three days until a callus forms. This is very important; without a callus, the cutting might end up absorbing too much water and rotting.
Next, choose a container, like a clear glass jar, for propagating your cuttings. This way you will be able to see the root progress. This also lets light pass through the jar and aids in quicker progress.
If you see the callus, fill the container with water and put the cutting in. Try not to submerge any leaves– keep them dry. One way to do this is to place plastic wrap on top and poke a hole to insert the stem in.
Place the container in a sunny window and wait for it to grow roots. The growth period is usually two to six weeks, depending on the climate and environment. Check on the container constantly to make sure it does not run out of water.
How to water propagate succulents using leaves
Propagating with leaves takes a much longer time than using cuttings, but this method does have a better chance at succeeding. You can also witness how the small leaves will start to grow and form roots at the bottom of the leaf.
First, pick a leaf that you wish to use to propagate. Grab a healthy, plump leaf between your thumb and forefinger and start moving it from side to side. If the leaf is ready to propagate, it is usually easily detached from the stem. Be careful when detaching the leaf because you might leave a portion of it on the stem. This will result in the leaf being unable to form any roots and leaves. The best leaves to choose are at the bottom since they are the most mature and have the best chance at survival. The younger leaves at the top of the plant will not have enough nutrition to grow roots.
After picking the leaves, lay them out on an empty tray to callus. This takes somewhere between five to seven days. You should see tiny baby roots after drying the leaves. Make sure you wait for the leaf to callus over because it gives the leaf a better chance at propagating. If the leaf does not wither while waiting to callus over, the leaf is healthy and a good choice for propagation.
Just like propagating with cuttings, choose a clear container and place plastic wrap on the top. Insert the leaves through holes to make sure the leaves do not become submerged in the water. Make sure the leaves do not touch the water and the bottoms with the baby roots do.
Place the container in a window with bright sunlight. The growth period is somewhere between two and six weeks. Check on the leaves often to make sure they are not drying out.
How do I pot my propagated plant?
Whether you are potting a cutting or a leaf, make sure you wait until the roots are at least one inch long or the mother leaf has dried out. Let it air dry on a paper towel for a day or two. The roots will be quite fragile, so be careful while handling them.
When the roots have dried, burrow the succulent into unfertilized succulent soil mix and place it in an area that has bright, indirect light.
Conclusion
Water propagation can be an easy way to add more of the same succulents to your collection for free. It can take some time to get new succulents, but it is ultimately worth it. You can use either cuttings or leaves to water propagate, and you will get the same results in roughly the same amount of time.
Place the cutting or leaf in water for several weeks until the roots become long enough to plant into their own separate pots. Before long you will have dozens of new baby succulents to add to your garden.
Succulents are visually appealing and easy to maintain. However, it can be stressful for plant owners when these plants become discolored, have brown or yellow speckles, or start to wilt. The probable culprits include overwatering, exposure to too high or too low temperatures, and pests. Succulents can be prone to pests and bugs like spider mites at any given time.
If the creatures are not controlled, the plants become damaged and eventually die.
Spider Mites on Succulents: What are they?
Spider mites are not insects, but a type of arachnid and relative of ticks, scorpions, and spiders. The adults are pale or reddish brown-colored, oval-shaped, and very tiny, just around 1/50 inch long. The immature stages of these pests look like adults but are smaller in size. They get their name because they spin webs to protect their colonies from predators.
These pests live in colonies, usually on the underside of leaves and they pierce leaf tissues, sucking out the plant fluids. As the mites feed, the leaves turn yellow, dry up, and eventually drop off. Spider mites usually thrive in hot, dry areas where their natural enemies have been eradicated by insecticides. They are very prolific and multiply quickly, resulting in heavy infestations.
These pests are hard to see with the naked eye. Adult females lay their eggs in the leaves, which hatch in days to weeks. They usually invade succulents through the following ways:
When you use unsterile soils
When plants are moved outdoors during the summer season
When they crawl through screens, which they can do because of their small size
When you buy plants from a nursery or garden center that are already infected
How do you know if there are spider mites on your succulents?
These are the ways that you will know if there are spider mites on succulents:
If there are small white spots or holes on the underside of leaves
If there are tiny red, brown, or yellow dots under the leaves
If there are silk webs on new growth or leaves
If the leaves are turning white, then yellow or brown and falling off the stems
Plant owners can easily spot traces of these pests by monitoring the plants vigilantly for any discolorations or changes. The mites themselves are hard to spot because of their small size, so the best way to notice them is by watching for stunted growth or discoloration.
How can I eradicate spider mites on succulents?
These are some effective methods to get rid of spider mites on succulents:
1. By pruning the plants
If your plants are infected with mites, isolate them and prune the affected areas that cannot be restored to control the infestation. Throw away or burn the pruned stems or leaves, and do not place them near any other plants. If the infestation is too heavy, throw the whole plant away rather than risk infecting the other plants.
2. By flushing with water
Flush the whole plant with water or spray at high pressure to dislodge the spider mites from your succulents. Be sure to wash the undersides of the leaves where these mites usually hide.
3. By using alcohol spray
Spraying the affected plants with alcohol is one of the most common methods that plant owners use to get rid of pests. Simply mix one part alcohol with one part water. You can also mix a small amount of dish soap into the solution. Spray it on the affected plants liberally and regularly until there are no traces of spider mites.
4. By using organic insecticides
A safe way to get rid of spider mites is by using an organic insecticide like neem oil. It has a strong smell that repels pests and has no adverse effects on humans, birds, and other animals. It is obtained from the seeds of a neem tree. Since its oil is sticky, you should mix it with a mild soap solution.
Simply mix 1½ teaspoons of neem oil concentrate with one tablespoon of dish soap or liquid soap in one liter of water. Spray the affected areas daily for at least a week, or until you do not see traces of the mites.
5. By using insecticidal soap
Insecticidal soap is only moderately effective compared to neem oil spray, but it can wipe out small infestations of mites. It does not cause damage to the plants and is not harmful to humans and other animals, as it does not contain artificial insecticides. Simply mix one tablespoon of the soap into one liter of water. Fill the spray bottle and spray the affected plants liberally.
6. By using mouthwash
Plant growers attest that this is an effective method for eradicating spider mites. You can see results as early as day one of using it. To make the mouthwash spray, mix two parts mouthwash with one tablespoon of dish soap in one liter of water. Spray the solution on affected plants for a few consecutive days for the best results.
7. By using lemon water spray
This method is ideal since it does not cause damage to plants. Simply squeeze out half a lemon and mix it with one liter of water; the ratio should be 2:3. Mix the solution well and spray the affected plants thoroughly.
8. By increasing the humidity
Mist the affected plants regularly and keep the humidity high around the plants because spider mites do not like it. These pests usually thrive in dry climates.
9. By using natural predators
You can also opt to use natural predators if you cannot stand the strong smell of organic insecticides or other solutions. Common natural predators include the following:
Ladybugs – These dainty bugs devour spider mites, including aphids and scale. They are attracted to pollen and pests; the best way to lure them in your garden is to plant cilantro, chives, and marigolds, as well as other flowering plants.
Lacewings – These net-winged insects feed on spider mites, mealybugs, whiteflies, and thrips. They also like insect larvae, pollen, and plant nectars.
Pirate bugs – These black or dark purple bugs feed on aphids, spider mites, and thrips. They also tend to feed on tender plant leaves, although they cause less damage. You can attract these bugs by planting marigolds, cosmos, spearmint, and fennel.
10. By using artificial insecticides
These are man-made chemical pesticides such as Imidacloprid and Acephate that effectively eradicate spider mites and other pests. However, extreme caution should be practiced to avoid any adverse effects on humans, animals, and the environment.
Plant growers note that you should only resort to these artificial insecticides if the earlier methods have no positive results or if there is an extremely heavy infestation.
Conclusion
Succulents add color and character to any room or garden because of their unique shapes and various colors. However, they are not immune to diseases and pests. Spider mites on succulents can lead to yellowing and wilted leaves that eventually drop off.
These pests can be eradicated through certain methods like using an alcohol and water spray, mouthwash and water spray, or organic insecticides. You can also use natural predators like ladybugs and lacewings to get rid of spider mites.
Succulents are drought-resistant plants with vibrant colors and unique shapes. Some varieties grow to just a few inches tall, while some can reach as high as 12 feet or more. However, while they are easy to care for, they can be plagued with bugs and pests such as aphids.
These sneaky pests blend with the color of most plants which makes them hard to spot.
Aphids on Succulents: What are they?
Aphids are small insects that belong to the family Aphidoidea. They are also called greenflies and blackflies. Some are fluffy white, although certain species may vary in color.
These soft-bodied pests use their piercing, sucking mouthparts to feed on the sap of succulents and other plants. Their colonies are often found on the undersides of leaves; heavily-infested plants turn yellow, become wilted, and fall off.
These insects inject their saliva into plants, causing the leaves and flowers to pucker or become extremely distorted. They also produce a sugary liquid waste called honeydew.
Sooty mold fungus can grow on honeydew deposits that accumulate on leaves, turning them black. The presence of this mold in succulents is an early indication that aphids are lurking in the plants. The honeydew deposits attract ants that feed on sweet materials. Aside from mold, these pests may also be vectors for certain viruses.
The Life Cycle of Aphids on Succulents
Winged adults deposit their eggs on succulent leaves before they fly off to other plants and lay eggs again. These pests usually attack entire gardens with this tactic. The eggs will then hatch and start to feed on the leaves. They may stay on the same plants for a few lifecycles before the winged adults lay eggs again.
The ants are the aphids’ partners in crime since they are known to herd and protect aphids on the plants in exchange for the honeydew deposits. They have chemicals that are said to keep the aphids calm and techniques to get the honeydew.
The ants, or ant farmers, act as protectors of the aphids and are known to fight off other insects that attempt to eat the latter. Interestingly, ants will keep the aphids on the same plant and prevent them from leaving by biting off their wings.
How can I get rid of aphids on succulents?
These are some ways to get rid of aphids on succulents:
By spraying or rinsing aphids off with a strong jet of water
Aphids usually cannot withstand hot temperatures and die on their own. You can also spray or rinse them off your plants with a strong jet of water. This is often enough to eradicate these pests, although they may eventually come back or transfer to other plants.
By pruning off affected plant areas
You can also get rid of these pests by pruning or cutting off affected stems and leaves. Remove and burn them to avoid other plants from being infected.
By spraying the pests with a soap and water mixture
You can also get rid of aphids by spraying them with a dish soap and water solution. Some plant owners recommend Castile since it contains vegetable oil or animal fat that smothers and kills the pests. Simply grate three teaspoonfuls of Castile and mix it with warm water. Spray the plants directly and repeat daily until you cannot see any more of the pests.
By getting rid of the ant farmers
You cannot successfully eradicate aphids if the ant farmers are still lurking. Destroy the anthills by pouring boiling water on them. You can also plant bright-colored flowers near the colonies or anthills to attract predators, or buy nematodes that like to feed on ants.
By planting companion plants alongside the succulents
Certain plants produce strong phytochemicals that deter aphids from approaching succulents, such as garlic and onions. Aphids dislike the sulfur scent. Certain herbs also emit scents that aphids hate. These include mint, cilantro, and oregano, which are also good for cooking. Plant the mint in pots and not directly into the ground.
Plants like feverfew lure aphids away from succulents. You may also place plants that attract aphid predators, such as ladybugs. These plants include marigolds, sunflowers, and Nasturtium. Aphids do not like the smell, but their predators are attracted to these plants because of the flowers.
By using essential oils
Essential oils like peppermint, thyme, and cloves are also effective in eradicating aphids. Simply add five to six drops of each of the oils, mix it with water, and spray it on the affected areas liberally. The pests dislike the scent and chemical reactions, so they should go away or eventually die.
By using Pyrethrum
Pyrethrum is a chemical and pesticide made from the chrysanthemum plant. It is effective in killing aphids and ants as well as other pests. Use this with extreme caution and do not allow pets or children to go near the area where you are spraying the chemical.
Conclusion
Aphids on succulents can be disgusting and life-threatening for the plants. Heavy infestations of these pests cause succulents to develop yellow spots, become wilted, and die. These insects are also known to be carriers of fungal diseases and viruses.
Get rid of these harmful pests by using essential oils spray, a soap and water mixture, or chemicals like Pyrethrum. It is also helpful to kill the ant farmers by pouring boiling water on the anthills or attracting pest predators like ladybugs.
Caring for succulents is usually easy and fuss-free as long as you provide them with enough sunlight, fast-draining soil, and just the right amount of water or moisture. However, it can be devastating when they are infested with pests and insects. In this article, get to know in-depth details on one of the succulents’ mortal enemies: the fungus gnats.
Gnats on succulents: What are they?
Fungus gnats are insects that belong to the fly family Diptera. These insects resemble small mosquitoes and thrive on damp and decaying algae, fungi, and vegetation. They may appear in large swarms and pose problems to nurseries and greenhouses. They live on soil and containers where the larvae feed on roots, root hairs, and organic matter.
Gnats are a nuisance for succulents because they consume the sap or juice of the leaves. They tend to stunt plant growth and make the leaves turn yellow and eventually fall off. Larvae damage nurseries and gardens since they harm seedlings, cuttings, and young plants. They may also spread plant pathogens and disease among flowering plants and crops.
These pests are carriers of plant fungal diseases like black root rot, Verticillium wilt, and Fusarium wilt. They are sometimes confused with black flies, moth flies, or March flies. Adults are dark and delicate-looking with slender legs and segmented antennae. They are usually about 1/8 to 1/16 inches long with light gray to transparent wings.
How can I prevent gnats on succulents?
Here are some ideas to prevent gnats on your succulents:
1. Make sure your plants are in fast-draining soil.
Moist soil is a big attractant for pests like fungus gnats, so keep the soil beneath the plants fast-draining. If your succulents are in pots, water should come out of the bottom of the pots within seconds of watering them. If that is not the case, add more grit to the soil, such as pumice or perlite.
2. Place plants in areas with bright light.
Sunlight helps evaporate excess water and moisture quickly. Also, humidity keeps the soil moist, which explains why succulents thrive more in environments with dry air.
3. Add top dressing to the pots.
Top dressing like pebbles and decorative gravel enhances the look of succulents. It also protects the plants from stagnant water and rot, which attract gnats.
Treatments for Gnats on Succulents
These are the common treatments for gnats on succulents:
Dry out the soil.
Try to wait an extra four or five days after you water your succulents before the next watering. Fungus gnat larvae cannot live in dry soil for a long period, so extending the time between waterings can wipe out these flies.
Use a dish soap and water solution.
Combine dish soap with water and spray the mixture into the soil of the affected plants. Repeat until you cannot see any signs of gnats. The soap and water mixture poisons the pests and prevents them from infesting the plants.
Use hydrogen peroxide.
Hydrogen peroxide is an effective anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-bug ingredient. It breaks down simple water and oxygen, which makes it environmentally safe. Use a 10% solution for killing gnats and a 3% solution to treat fungal infections in plants.
It is safe for plants up to a maximum of 30% strength, and can be applied on leaves, stems, and roots. It can also be placed liberally into the soil. Repeat the treatment until there are no signs of the pests.
Try cinnamon.
Most plant growers find cinnamon moderately effective in treating pests and other garden issues. It is a deterrent for pests and fungi. Sprinkle it liberally on the soil around the base of the plant and dampen it slightly by spraying some water to mix it in.
Use diatomaceous earth.
Food grade diatomaceous earth, or DE, is commonly used to treat pests like gnats. DE is lethal to pests as it gets between the joints of their exoskeletons and shreds them from the inside. Simply sprinkle it on top of the soil. It will slowly kill adult gnats that lay eggs as well as the larvae.
Aside from these treatment options, some plant owners also swear by the effectiveness of rubbing alcohol solution or pure neem oil. Simply spray them in certain plant parts regularly to get rid of the pests.
Gnats on succulents are an eyesore and can cause irreparable damage. These mosquito-like pests consume the sap of succulent leaves and are also known as carriers of fungal diseases like black root rot.
Eradicate these little pests and prevent them from causing damage to your succulents by spraying them with a dish soap and water solution, applying hydrogen peroxide, or sprinkling cinnamon. You can prevent them from infesting your plants by placing your succulents in fast-draining soil, putting them in bright light, and adding a top dressing like pebbles.
Succulent root rot is a general term for a variety of diseases that affect the plant’s roots. The most common cause of succulent root rot is overwatering. When the plant’s pot is always soaked in water and there are no drainage holes, the roots will “drown,” killing the root one segment at a time. The rot can spread to the rest of the plant if not caught soon enough.
You can save your succulents from root rot through sulfur, beheading, trimming, or drying.
What is root rot?
Root rot is a condition in plants that can be caused by diseases, but is more commonly due to overwatering. A plant’s roots rot and die, causing the rest of the plant to die if it is not treated as soon as possible.
Overwatering your succulent causes root rot, especially if the plant’s pot does not have any drainage holes in the bottom. The excess water that the plant does not absorb simply stays in the soil around the plant’s roots. Succulent roots need air to survive, which is why they need airy soil. If their pot is soaked in water all the time, the roots will basically “drown” and die.
It is quite challenging to catch root rot in its early stages. People usually notice differences in their plants because of changes in the stems or leaves, but these symptoms mean that the root rot has become quite serious and may be hard to treat.
How can you tell if your succulent is overwatered?
One way to rule out certain plants in your garden from root rot is by checking to see if they have been overwatered or not. An overwatered succulent’s leaves will have a lighter color than normal, or may even be translucent.
The leaves will feel squishy, mushy, and soft to the touch. The leaves may also start falling off of the stem because of the added weight of the excess water the plant has been absorbing.
How can you tell if your succulent has root rot?
Being able to tell if your succulent has root rot requires inspecting the root, stems, and leaves.
Checking the roots
When you are in the process of repotting your plant, or if you simply suspect root rot, unpot your plant and remove as much dirt as you can so you can take a good look at the roots.
If the plant’s roots are yellow or white, they are healthy. Healthy roots also have root hair, which is a natural root structure that is used to drink water from the soil. The fuzz on the root can also be a symbiotic fungus that helps in absorbing nutrients from the soil, called mycorrhizal fungus.
If you do not see fuzz, that is okay- uprooting the plant is necessary, but can destroy the fuzz. It will not hurt the plant, but try not to unpot the plant too often.
If the plant’s roots appear brown, do not worry: they are likely just dried out or underwatered. This can be remedied by a more frequent watering schedule.
Plant roots that have root rot will be dark brown or even black. They will feel slimy and wet to the touch. The roots of a plant with root rot will most likely disintegrate as you pull them out of the ground.
A rotten smell can also be a sign of possible root rot. The rotten smell can range from mild to very foul, depending on the severity of the rot. The smell is similar to rotten vegetables.
Unfortunately, people usually only catch root rot in its early stages when they happen to be repotting their plants.
Check the stems and leaves
When you find signs of root rot on the plant’s stems and leaves, this means that the damage is severe and that the root rot has been going on for quite some time.
It is still possible to reverse the effects of root rot when the plant’s leaves are pale and yellow, but it can be difficult. It is especially hard to catch, especially when the plant’s leaves cover the base of the stem, making catching the root rot early almost impossible.
Another tip is to see if only the lower leaves are turning yellow. This is a sign that it is being overwatered.
How can you treat root rot?
The best method to choose when trying to treat root rot will depend on the severity of the damage. Here are several suggestions:
Dry out the roots.
The simplest way to treat root rot is to simply let the roots dry. This technique is only going to work if the rot has not yet spread to the stem and leaves. If the leaves on the plant have already started turning yellow, drying out will no longer work. Leave the plant to dry out for several days before repotting it.
Trim the roots.
If you are fortunate enough to have caught the rot in its early stages, you can treat it by trimming off the affected roots. The key is to cut off the root a few inches above the affected part. This is because even if a segment of the root looks healthy, the insides may already be rotting. Just to be safe, cut off more than what seems necessary.
After trimming, do not replant immediately. Instead, let the cuttings callus for a few days to increase the chances of recovery.
Sprinkle sulfur
Powdered sulfur can help prevent root rot, especially ones caused by fungi and bacteria. The sulfur acidifies the soil when it is sprinkled on the roots before the plant is repotted. Just be careful when using sulfur to prevent root rot because it can also kill beneficial microbes. Keep in mind that sulfur will not treat root rot caused by overwatering.
Conclusion
Succulent root rot happens when the roots of a plant are damaged or even die due to bacteria or fungi. It is more commonly due to overwatering.
You will know a plant has root rot if the leaves are pale or yellow and mushy when touched. The roots will be a dark brown or black color with the foul smell of rotten vegetation.
Treat root rot through drying out the roots and trimming off the affected roots. Prevent it from happening by sprinkling sulfur powder on the roots before repotting.
Succulents are well-loved for their unique shapes and sizes. The soil that they are growing in plays a major role in determining their health and appearance. These hardy plants thrive well in soil that drains well, but what about the soil’s quality? Read on and get to know if succulents have a special preference when it comes to soil quality and if they favor acidic soil or not.
Do succulents like acidic soil?
Yes, succulents like acidic soil and most of these plants thrive well in soil that has a pH level of six. Cacti also typically grow in soil with a pH level between five and seven. However, the exact pH level and acidity may vary among certain varieties.
Certain succulents grow well in limestone soil while some do not, it such as the Echeveria which grows well in peaty soil. This type of soil consists mostly of peat, decomposed vegetable matter or mosses usually found in bogs.
Succulent growers attest that the acidity level in succulent soil is not a major concern. More emphasis is given to the quality of care given to the plants. They also note that there has been no definitive pH level that is considered perfect for succulents.
If the soil is deemed too acidic, succulent owners can always use a succulent soil mix to address the concern.
Additionally, succulents grow well in soil that allows excess water to drain easily. The ideal succulent soil should allow the plants to breathe. Succulents do not grow well in compact soil. It retains water and moisture, which could lead to root rot.
What are the signs of a pH imbalance in cacti and succulents?
These are the signs of a pH imbalance in cacti and succulents:
Plants showing these signs should be watered with rainwater so they can be saved. Rainwater is acidic and it will maintain the pH levels at an optimal degree. Testing the pH of the soil and water is also a good measure. You can adjust the pH of water before giving it to your plants by testing the pH level.
How to lower or raise the soil’s pH?
If soil pH is too high for your succulents, mix aluminum sulfate in the first inch or so. The amount of aluminum sulfate used will depend on the starting pH level of the soil. Make sure to calculate the amount, as too much could be harmful to your plants.
The ideal mix is 1.2 pounds of aluminum sulfate per 10 square feet of soil. Various compounds can be used to lower the soil pH, such as iron sulfate, elemental sulfur and acidifying nitrogen depending on your personal preference and application.
Inversely, you can raise the soil pH with agricultural lime. Just apply it to the first few inches of the soil. For immediate results, mix potassium carbonate in water since it is very soluble and reaches the root system at once. Low pH is usually due to over-fertilization, so be sure to always test the soil first before adding fertilizers.
How to Make Succulent Soil?
To avoid the perils of acidic soil, you could opt to make your own succulent soil. These are the ingredients that you will need:
First, mix three parts of potting soil into two parts of coarse sand and one part of perlite. If you are using a cup, it would mean three scoops of potting soil, two scoops of coarse sand and one scoop of perlite.
The potting soil is the base for your succulent soil. Make sure it is clean and fresh. It should also be light and porous as it means it is fast-draining. Avoid using garden soil or compact soil as it absorbs too much water and moisture.
The coarse sand makes the soil mix breathable but do not use beach sand since it does not provide aeration. Beach sand also has minerals that could be harmful to succulents.
Perlite or pumice is lightweight and organic that makes the soil porous. It looks a lot like Styrofoam. It is a good addition to your succulent soil since it does not absorb or hold too much water and water. It also prevents compaction allowing the soil to become fast-draining.
Mix them all together with a trowel or with your bare hands. That’s it, you now have your very own succulent soil!
The utmost advantage of making your own succulent soil is that you can adjust all the ingredients, unlike commercial soil mixes that tend to be compacted or not coarse enough.
Conclusion
Succulents are low maintenance plants and they can thrive in acidic soil with a pH level of more or less six. However, succulent growers indicate that the soil’s acidity level is not a major concern. Measures can be made to lower or raise the soil’s acidity.
Many plant enthusiasts also prefer to mix their own succulent soil to ensure that their succulents will grow and flourish.
Succulents grow in the dry and arid deserts of North and South America, Europe, and Africa. This is why most succulents are drought-tolerant and are able to survive despite having very limited water for long periods of time.
What are succulents?
Succulents are plants that have natural water storage tissues which make them virtually drought-resistant. They are able to live in the driest places on earth because of all the water they can store in their bodies, including in their stems, branches, and leaves.
The word succulent comes from the Latin word “sucus,” meaning sap or juice. In times of low water supply, succulents are also able to become dormant in order to conserve the little water and energy they have so they can concentrate on surviving. They need more water during their growing phase because they are maturing much more rapidly.
Is a cactus a succulent?
Yes, a cactus is a succulent, but some people think they belong in different groups. Cacti are one of the largest groups in the succulent world. Cacti store water inside their bodies, which by definition make them succulents.
Cacti have fleshy stems that store water. Their bodies have spines or hair, and a few others even have leaves. Because of their distinct appearance, it is not that difficult to identify a cactus when you see one.
So, simply put, all cacti are succulents, but not all succulents are cacti.
What is the history of succulents?
Succulents that previously existed in only one corner of the world can now be bought at your local nursery because these once exotics plants have been sought by collectors to be added to their gardens.
Thousands of years ago, succulents only grew in the deserts and arid areas of the Americas, the European Alps, and Africa. Succulents were called the camels of the plant world because of their ability to go long periods without any water.
This special quality of the succulent is what drew people towards domesticating them and putting them in the gardens near their homes. Succulents soon became known as ornamental plants because of the variety of shapes, sizes, and colors that they come in.
Over time, people began discovering more and more of the benefits of succulents. They found out that keeping certain succulents inside the house kept the pests away. Other cultures used succulents as natural sweeteners, such as the Agave plants. And the healing powers of the aloe vera have long been a part of various cultures worldwide.
What are some of the beliefs that people once had about succulents?
From our ancestors, there are several myths about succulents that still prevail even to this day.
Succulents attract wealth.
According to ancient Asian beliefs, the jade plant brought good luck and wealth to the family that owned it. The jade plant’s leaves and appearance are related to growth and renewal, which is why it was chosen as a symbol of prosperity.
Succulents keep your family prosperous and safe.
People used to believe that the houseleek helped keep evil out and kept the family in the house safe and prosperous. It was also said to protect the family from lightning, fire, and even witchcraft. This is why the Roman emperor Charlemagne ordered his entire empire to keep houseleeks in their homes.
Succulents can protect you from death.
The Sempervivum Tectorum is one of the many succulents that people believed could provide protection against death. People would put the plant on their rooftops for full effect. They said that if a stranger came along to remove the plant from the rooftop, bad luck or illness would come upon a member of the household.
To this day, there are still people that place the plants on their rooftops in some parts of Wales.
Where do succulents come from?
There are native succulents in all parts of the world, except for the really cold areas. They mostly come from the deserts and dry areas of North and South America, Europe, and Africa. There are special succulents that have learned to survive in mountainous areas and even in the rainforests.
In places where most other plants would not be able to survive because of extreme temperatures or lack of water, succulents are able to survive and adapt. There are also succulents that live near the coasts and dry lakes. Most plants would not like these areas because of the high mineral deposits.
Which countries have the most native succulents?
South Africa
The climate in South Africa is semi-arid to arid, making it a perfect place to host succulents. Most of the land in South Africa is either hilly or flat and has little to no rain for most of the year. The highest temperatures can reach up to 110 degrees Fahrenheit. The country is known for its succulent karoo that stretches from southwestern Namibia to the South African west coast.
The most common succulents found in South Africa are the plush plant, ghost plant, panda plant, elephant bush, zebra plant, jelly bean plant, aloe zebrina, jade plant, and the Cotyledon orbiculate.
Mexico
Mexico has a diverse collection of succulents as well because its climate is perfect for multiple succulent plant species. The land is hilly and dry with the temperatures going into the extremes.
The most common succulents in the country are the hooker orchid cactus, Moses in the cradle, ladyfinger cactus, seven stars, echinocereus viridiflorus, sedum allantoides, graptopetalum pentadrum, echeveria agavoides, and the echeveria elegans.
Conclusion
Succulents grow in the driest, most arid parts of the earth, specifically the deserts of the Americas, Europe, and Africa. Succulents are able to store water in their bodies and in their leaves which allow them to survive in the driest conditions. This quality is what makes succulents resilient and drought-tolerant.
Nowadays, the most exotic succulents can be found in your nearest nursery, which just proves how tough and adaptable these plants are.
The simplest way to keep your succulent small is to plant it in a small container that will restrict its roots from growing and spreading, thus, keeping it in a manageable size.
Pruning a plant back to a size that is to your liking is also another way to keep it small.
Lastly, you can always choose to grow small species of succulents so you will not have to worry about wrangling large ones.
Are some succulents smaller than others?
Yes. The variety in succulent species is so vast that some can be a few inches high fully grown, while others can reach several feet high. Because succulents are generally quite slow-growing, people seem to assume that they will not grow over a couple inches.
Make sure you do research about the plants you plan on growing so you have an estimate as to how much space you should be giving each plant. Here are some examples of how large succulents can get:
A species like the aloe vera plant can be around two feet high, which is not small but also not big enough to look out of place when placed indoors. All these plants need is a spot in the house with ample sunlight and regular watering.
Sempervivum plants grow only to be four to six inches wide and need not to be repotted for several years. You only need to remove any new plants and replant them somewhere else.
The Lithops, or living stone plant, is one of the smallest succulent varieties. You might even mistake them for pebbles when you see them growing from the ground. You will know a Lithops is growing when you see a pair of leaves growing from the middle and the original pair dying.
The Christmas cactus can reach up to two feet in diameter, which is bigger than most small succulents. With proper pruning, it can be kept to a manageable size that will not overwhelm your home.
How do I keep my succulents small?
Choose small succulents
One of the easiest ways to make sure your succulents don’t take up too much space in your house or garden is to choose small succulents to begin with. If you know that the plants you choose are not going to grow over several inches, then you can plant them in small pots without worrying about constantly changing them.
It is much more difficult to try and control a plant’s urge to grow bigger than it is to choose one that will always fit in the palm of your hand, even after five years.
A great example of a small succulent is the Mammillaria gracilis fragilis, or the thimble cactus. The thimble cactus matures into three inch tall clumps. When its tiny segments fall off from the stem, they tend to just take root themselves. Another example of a small succulent is the Mammillaria bocasana, or the powder puff cactus.
Prune often
Etiolation is when a plant’s leaves and branches lack sunlight. It makes them grow out their branches longer in the direction of the nearest light source. This makes the plant grow faster as it seeks what it needs. Keep your plant to your preferred size and shape by pruning it.
When your plant has etiolated, it can be difficult to prune it properly so it returns to its original shape. It is best if you trim your plants before the plant has enough time to stretch. Another way to avoid etiolation is to place your plant in a place where it can receive appropriate amounts of sunlight. If a plant gets sufficient sunlight, it will have no need to stretch anymore.
Before pruning, sterilize the scissors or shears you will be using so as not to introduce any bacteria or fungi into the plant’s system. When you prune a plant, the area where you cut it is essentially a wound that germs can use to get access to a vulnerable plant. Make sure you sterilize the scissors between usage on different plants.
Pruning your succulent also gives you the cutting to plant in a new pot. You are basically getting another chance at your miniature succulent garden each time.
Confine the roots
As mentioned above, succulents are slow-growing plants. They also do not tend to have very thick or large roots. If you confine the roots in a space that will limit their root growth, this will also help keep the plant from growing. Restricted root growth also means restricted nutrient absorption, hence the stunting of growth.
You can do this by planting the succulents close together. This not only restricts the root growth but also makes for a visually appealing succulent arrangement. Succulents tend to look more beautiful when they are arranged with minimal space between plants. It will make them look fuller and healthier.
If you want to keep your plant separate while also keeping its growth at a minimum, try to plant each individual plant in small pots or containers so the limited space will keep the roots from growing too much. Just make sure that you are still using appropriate succulent soil and a pot with drainage holes at the bottom.
Do research on appropriate care
Different species of succulents require different sets of plant care directions. Different succulent species come from different parts of the world with varying climates. So read up on the kind of soil and how much water and sunlight your new plant is going to need.
Succulents are very hard to kill and very easy to take care of; doing the bare minimum will keep it alive, but giving the plant TLC will make it thrive.
Conclusion
Some people do not have the space in their apartments or houses to take care of succulents that grow several feet tall or wide. Not having the space is no reason to deprive yourself of the experience of being a plant parent. You can keep small succulents so that you can have a sizable garden without it taking up too much space.
For greater success, choose succulents that are naturally small. Try planting them in small pots to confine their roots. Prune the leaves and stems, especially if they are going through etiolation, and make sure to always provide each plant with appropriate care.
Succulents grow naturally in hot and dry places and are endemic to areas such Central America, Africa, and South America. While they are known as hardy plants that can survive with minimal amounts of moisture, they are also prone to diseases.
Common Succulent Diseases
These are some of the most common diseases in succulents:
Fungal diseases or infections
Succulents tend to develop fungal infections when they are removed from their natural habitats. The main culprit is a change in conditions since succulents thrive in a dry climate. Too much moisture can lead to fungal attacks.
These are some common fungal infections among succulents:
1. Sooty mold
This is also called the black mold and is considered the least damaging fungi. It is caused by the presence of aphids, whiteflies, scales, and mealybugs. The insects produce honeydew that the sooty mold feeds on.
Treatment: To eradicate sooty mold, your succulents should be free from insect infestations. Spray the plants with rubbing alcohol or apply neem oil.
2. Grey mold
Grey mold is also called Botrytis cinerea, an infection that is easy to identify. It forms grayish-brown spore masses on the leaves and flowers of succulents and often spreads when the weather is cold and wet during early spring and summer. It spreads quickly and chooses damaged or dying succulent tissues.
Treatment: Use fungicides during the early stages, but if the infection is serious, you will need to cut the affected areas and burn off the damaged tissues. Avoid watering the affected plants from the top so they can dry out between watering. Do not leave stubs when taking cuttings.
3. Leaf spots
This fungal infection disfigures succulents severely. If there is a heavy infection, it can spread to other plants. However, despite the appearance of it, it does very little damage to succulents.
Treatment: Do not use a fungicide if you notice shallow tan lesions or spotting on the affected plants. You can replace the plants, but since the fungal infection does little damage, the affected plants will eventually outgrow and tolerate it.
4. Fusarium wilt
This fungal infection is caused by Fusarium oxysporum, a pathogen. It prevents succulents from taking up water and causes wilting, yellowing, and death. The fungus penetrates the plants through the roots and reproduces in the vascular tissues, which get blocked. This means the plant cannot absorb water anymore. You will notice brown streaks if you cut the leaves of infected plants.
Treatment: Water the affected plant sparingly to discourage further fungal growth. Use sanitized tools and provide enough feeding to encourage the growth of new and healthy tissues.
5. Anthracnose
The infection is caused by fungi of the genus Colletotrichum and affects many cacti and succulents. Your plant may be infected with this fungi if it has moist, tan-colored rot with red, pink, or orange pustules.
Treatment: Remove and destroy affected leaves and avoid reusing the contaminated soil. You may also use a copper fungicide to destroy the remaining fungal bodies.
6. Root and crown rots
This infection is caused by the fungal pathogens of the genus Phytophthora. The symptoms of this fungal infection are not identifiable during the early stages, which makes it hard to differentiate from other fungal diseases. Affected succulents become wilted and stressed, change their colors, and eventually die because of a slow rot that develops upward from the soil level.
Treatment: This infection does not respond well to treatment. The best you can do is to replant your succulents in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering them.
7. Powdery mildew
This disease is caused by the bacterium Sphaerotheca and usually affects herbaceous plants and succulents. Symptoms include scabby or corky areas on the leaves.
Treatment: Treat this infection by applying fungicides like Triadimefon. Home remedies include milk, baking soda, garlic, and compost tea.
Viral diseases
Succulents are also prone to viral infections which spread through insects that feed on their sap. Insects and pests should be eradicated so as not to spread the viruses. Keep your grafting knives disinfected at all times.
Signs of viral infections include stunted growth and abnormal shoots overgrowth. Affected plants are usually discarded since there is no specific treatment for the infections.
Bacterial infections
An example of a common bacterial infection among succulents is called bacterial soft rot. This infection is caused by the pathogen Erwinia. Signs include soft and mushy plant tissues, as well as the collapse of stems and branches. This is also called the damping-off disease and usually affects small seedlings.
Unfortunately, there is no cure for this disease; affected succulents should be discarded. Do not overwater your plants and provide adequate air circulation to prevent this disease.
Aside from diseases and infections, succulents can also suffer from nutritional deficiencies. The soil’s pH levels can affect their ability to absorb minerals. You can reduce the alkalinity by adding vinegar to the soil.
According to Saddleback College, iron deficiency is common among succulents and causes them to turn yellow. Adding vinegar to the soil enhances the availability of iron according to reports done by The Vinegar Institute. Too much nitrogen in the soil can also upset the pH balance, preventing flowering and causing plants to turn darker green.
Poor care of succulents can also lead to disease-like conditions such as desiccation, sunburn, overwatering, and etiolation, which is characterized by long, weak stems and smaller leaves. These conditions can be prevented by watering your plants correctly, providing proper ventilation, and giving access to just the right sunlight.
Conclusion
Succulents are hardy plants, but they are also prone to infections and diseases. They tend to develop bacterial, fungal, and viral diseases as well as deficiencies and disease-like conditions.
To ensure that your plants are healthy, learn what you can about proper succulent care from plant experts and succulent growers. Most importantly, make sure that you do not overwater your plants and that you use well-draining soil.
Succulents have a high tolerance for fungi that cause leaf spots, but they can also develop fungal diseases. The probable reason for this is a change in natural habitat. A common fungal infection among succulents is powdery mildew. It is easy to identify and has distinctive symptoms such as pale yellow and white powdery spots.
Powdery mildew on succulents: What it is, treatment and prevention
Powdery mildew is prevalent in warm and dry weather, and does not spread well in cool and rainy environments. Certain plants are immune to this fungal infection, but succulents can become prone to it. The fungus rapidly develops in a humid environment with moderate temperatures. Most often, the most affected parts are the lower leaves, but above-ground parts are also susceptible.
It is often characterized as white spots and affected succulents look like they are dusted with flour. The fungus could appear on the stems, fruits and leaves. It could eventually disfigure the leaves, buds and growing tips and could also affect other plants through insects, the wind and even splashing water. As the fungus spreads, the leaves turn yellow and become wilted until eventually, the whole branch dies.
Powdery mildew may be caused by high humidity and in certain cases, it can be temporarily removed by rubbing the leaves. It can take away the plant’s nutrients and weaken it, resulting in lesser blooms and stunted growth. The fungus could even kill your succulents.
Treatment for powdery mildew on succulents
These are the common organic treatment options for powdery mildew:
Potassium bicarbonate: It effectively kills powdery mildew spores.
Milk: It gets rid of the fungus once it is hit by the sun and free radicals start to form.
Neem oil: It kills the fungus in less than a day.
Vinegar: The acetic acid effectively kills the fungus, but make sure not to use a strong mixture to avoid burning the leaves.
Baking soda: It has a high pH level that kills the fungus, just like potassium bicarbonate.
Garlic: It kills powdery mildew because of the high sulfur content.
Sulfur: It controls and prevents the growth of the fungus.
Copper: It is an effective treatment but you need to follow strict instructions.
Mouthwash: Another organic way to eradicate the fungus.
Water: It washes off the spores but only works temporarily.
Aside from organic treatment, you can also use fungicides to treat powdery mildew on succulents. Some of the recommended fungicides include Bayer Advanced 701270 and Spectracide Immunex Fungus Control.
How to use baking soda for powdery mildew treatment
Mix one tablespoon of baking soda and one-half teaspoon of liquid, non-detergent soap with one gallon of water. Spray the mixture on affected leaves. See to it that the plant is watered well before application of the baking soda mixture. Do not apply the treatment during the daytime as the mixture can cause sunburn. It is best to test it on a few leaves first.
Prevention for powdery mildew on succulents
Here are ways to prevent powdery mildew on succulents:
Opt for succulents that are resistant and tolerant to the fungus.
Do not water succulents from overhead to minimize humidity.
Shear overcrowded plant parts to increase the circulation of air and reduce humidity.
Sanitize your pruning tools.
Periodically spray your succulents with fungicides.
Remove affected plant foliage to prevent the spread to nearby plants.
Your watering routine should be in the morning so the plants, and especially the soil, can dry out during the day.
Make sure that succulents have some access to direct sunlight.
See to it that the soil drains properly.
Conclusion
Powdery mildew on succulents could pose a great threat and even kill your plants. Aside from fungicides, various organic treatments are effective in eradicating the fungus, such as baking soda, neem oil and copper. It is ideal to apply preventative measures as mentioned above to ensure the health of your succulents.
Yes, succulents love coffee grounds! Coffee is acidic, and succulents thrive in acidic soil. Coffee grounds also contain several essential nutrients that succulents need to grow, such as magnesium, potassium, and nitrogen. Coffee grounds can also keep pests and weeds away, as well as aid in draining and aerating the soil.
What are the nutrients that can be found in coffee?
Brewed coffee contains both magnesium and potassium. Coffee grounds are also essentially 2% nitrogen, which makes them a great addition to any compost pile. These three nutrients are vital to your succulent’s growth, especially when they are still little buds.
Your succulents need these three so much that if they do not get enough of one, their leaves will become pale and their growth may be stunted.
Providing these essential nutrients is important, especially if your succulents are in small pots or in driftwood planters. When succulents are planted in a container, they will eventually use up all of the macronutrients available in their soil, so you have to refill their supply of nutrients to keep them healthy. You do this by putting fertilizer into the soil.
Is coffee too acidic for my succulents?
No; succulents grow better in soil that is slightly acidic. Succulents prefer an environment that is between pH levels 5.8 to 7. Because water is more basic with a pH level of 8, whenever you water your plants, you are elevating the pH of the soil around them.
You can counteract this effect by using coffee grounds as a fertilizer. By adding the acidic coffee grounds, you are pulling back the pH to levels that your succulent actually likes.
People who have tried using coffee grounds as fertilizer have reported that their succulents are healthier and their flowers bloomed more frequently than they had before.
Can I use coffee grounds on my potted succulents?
In the case of potted succulents, mixing coffee grounds into their soil is not as effective as putting it in the soil in your outdoor garden. This is because pots do not have the microbes that are able to break down the coffee grounds mixed into the soil. But this does not mean that you cannot use the grounds on potted plants.
You still can– you still need to brew the grounds into coffee and dilute it with water.
You can even use your least favorite coffee, so you will not feel guilty just dumping it on your plants. Brew the coffee and add in an equal amount of water. Place it inside a spray bottle and spray it on your potted succulents.
Note any differences in the succulents after a few weeks of using the coffee spray. If you think your plants like it, then continue to do so.
How do I use coffee grounds in my garden?
As mentioned above, coffee grounds will have no effect on potted plants, but they will definitely help out the succulents planted in your outdoor garden. You can use the coffee grounds by sprinkling them or mixing them directly into the soil in your garden.
Because your garden soil has plenty of microbes, it can break down the coffee grounds and release the nitrogen. This will help enrich the soil, while the texture of the coffee grounds will help keep the soil porous and aerated. Some studies even show that the coffee grounds help keep both pests and weeds away from your succulents.
Only use coffee grounds, meaning the dregs that are left after brewing the coffee. Putting unbrewed coffee directly into your soil will place too much caffeine in it, which is not good for the plants. Brewed coffee grounds have already had most of the caffeine removed and are safer to use on your plants. A light roast coffee is always a good choice.
How do I use coffee grounds as fertilizer?
Add them to the compost
One of the best ways to use coffee as fertilizer is to add the coffee grounds to your compost pile, then wait until the compost is ready to use. The high nitrogen content will balance out the other components of the compost pile. The microbes and the earthworms will ingest the coffee in the soil and produce even richer compost material.
Apply the compost as fertilizer while repotting your succulents, or simply apply a layer of it at the top of the soil. Make sure you do not place too much compost on your potted succulents, as it may result in foliage burn or even nutrient poisoning. Do not place more than an inch thick layer of the compost on the potted plant.
Add the grounds directly into the soil
When you are planning to plant succulents in a plot of soil in your garden, sprinkle some coffee grounds on the area first and mix them in evenly. Aerate the soil by agitating it with a trowel. When the soil is loose and airy, plant the succulents. The coffee grounds in the soil will help drain the water on the succulents properly, as well as keeping the soil around the plants aerated.
Conclusion
Yes, succulents like coffee grounds because they provide essential nutrients to the soil around the succulent. These nutrients are magnesium, potassium, and nitrogen. Coffee grounds also help keep the pH level of the soil around the succulents at an ideal 5.8 to 7.
Potted plants prefer being sprayed with the liquid from coffee grounds that have been brewed a second time, while succulents in your outdoor garden prefer the coffee grounds mixed directly into the soil they are planted in.
Aside from the nutrients coffee grounds replenish, they also help in aerating the soil and draining water properly.
One of the most annoying things to deal with as a homeowner is pests. Sometimes, no matter how much you clean the house, they always seem to be around. Not only are they a pain to deal with, they also carry germs that can cause a multitude of diseases. For protection from roaches, flies, bed bugs, mosquitoes, and ants, you can spend a pretty penny stocking up on bug spray and pesticide. But did you know that the mere presence of some plants in your home is enough to send these pesky bugs running?
In this article we will learn about which plants you need to have inside your home if you want to get rid of pests.
Which plants help repel bugs?
Using plants to repel the bugs in your home is not only safer than using chemical sprays, but it also helps make your house smell and look better. The following are the plants that you can try.
1. Catnip
Image: istockphoto.com / ikuyan
If you have pet cats, this will be like hitting two birds with one stone. Catnip works great at keeping bugs, especially mosquitoes, out of your house. The essential oil in catnip, nepetalactone, that gives the catnip plant its distinct smell, works ten times better than most commercial mosquito repellents.
Catnip is also a great cockroach deterrent. Grow some catnip in a pot, and when it is big enough, trim some sprigs and sprinkle it around your home. You can also make catnip spray by simmering some sprigs in water and pouring it into a spray bottle.
2. Lavender
Image: istockphoto.com / FabianSPhotographie
You can also plant lavender around your house. It will make your garden smell heavenly while keeping away flies, beetles, and fleas. Like catnip, lavender oil can be used in a spray. If you have a pollen allergy, it might be best to plant the lavender bush outside. Place lavender near your doorways to deter flying insects from entering.
3. Venus Flytrap
Image: istockphoto.com / Meindert van der Haven
This plant is the most literally named when it comes to pest control because it will trap the insect and kill it. They are effective against gnats and flies because those are the insects that will unknowingly land on the Venus Flytrap. Not only will this carnivorous plant help with your pest problem, it will be easy to keep the plant well-fed.
4. Rosemary
Image: istockphoto.com / pcess609
Burning dried rosemary can drive away insects from your house. You can plant rosemary and once it gets big enough, get some sprigs and let them dry. Make sure to burn the dried rosemary near where the bugs hang around. Waving it around one room for a couple of seconds is not going to work. You can also use fresh sprigs of rosemary to deter moths and silverfish by placing them in your drawers and dressers.
5. Marigolds
Image: istockphoto.com / khudoliy
Marigolds are beautiful flowers that ward off mosquitoes, so they are a win-win for your home. You can plant them in boxes and place those boxes in your window sills to keep the mosquitoes out. Marigolds contain pyrethrum, which is an ingredient of many insect repellents. You can also plant these flowers around your tomato plants to protect them from pests.Sage
6. Sage
Image: istockphoto.com / Helmagh
Sage is not the prettiest bush to have around your home, but its effectiveness against multiple insects make growing it worthwhile. You can burn dried sage because it is effective against mosquitoes. As long as you have a sage bush in your garden, just take a few cuttings and you have your own natural supply of mosquito and fly repellent. You can also place dried sage in a tiny mesh bag and place it in your dresser and drawers.
7. Basil
Image: istockphoto.com / Liudmila Chendekova
Basil is one of the most aromatic herbs for cooking; many people love the taste and smell. Fortunately, insects do not feel the same way. The smell of the oil in basil can deter household pests. For centuries, people have been using basil as a way to repel flies. Plant basil in a few pots and place those pots near your doorways.
8. Chives
Image: istockphoto.com / Ana Luiza Serpa
Chives can be grown anywhere by anyone, so make sure you have a few stalks present in your garden. Not only does it add tons of flavor to your cooking, it can also repel aphids, beetles, and flies.
9. Citronella
Image: istockphoto.com / AwakenedEye
This plant is so well known for repelling mosquitoes that it is called the mosquito plant. People even use citronella-scented candles at night when they are about to go to sleep to banish any mosquitoes from the room. When using citronella plant leaves, crush them so the fragrance is freed. You can even rub the crushed citronella leaves directly onto your skin so the mosquitoes steer clear of you. When placed around the house, the plant itself has enough of the scent lingering for the insects to stay away from it.
10. Chrysanthemums
Image: istockphoto.com / delobol
This flowering plant has the innate ability to purify the air and to remove toxins from it. This plant is also great at repelling roaches, bed bugs, ants, fleas, lice, ticks, and silverfish. It helps that they have beautiful flowers that light up any space in your house. You can protect your house from pests while beautifying it at the same time.
Conclusion
Most people think twice before using commercially available bug sprays and pesticides because of the chemicals that are present in them. But the pests present in most households can be stressful to deal with. A great compromise is to plant certain plants that have been used to deter bugs for centuries. These plants are catnip, lavender, Venus Flytrap, rosemary, marigold, sage, basil, chives, citronella, and chrysanthemums.
Did you know that succulents do not just come in different shades of green? They come in an array of bright colors that will bring cheeriness into any garden.
In this article are some of the most beautiful orange succulents you can add to your collection. If you are on the lookout for adding more sunshine into your garden, keep on reading.
1. Graptoveria “Fred Ives”
Image: istockphoto.com / owngarden
This orange succulent is actually a hybrid between the Graptopetalum and the Echeveria, hence its name. This plant is made of large rosette clumps, with each rosette growing up to a foot wide. It can grow to be around eight inches high.
Their leaves can be green, deep red, or bright orange, and are thick with bronze tips.
During the summer months, the Graptoveria will grow stalks with yellow flowers that have orange centers. Placing it in direct sunlight for a few hours will help show its full aesthetic potential. When the plant remains in the shade, it will retain a turquoise green color.
This plant is a great choice for those that are looking for low maintenance succulents. It requires minimal watering, making it quite tolerant of droughts. All it really needs is to be planted in a pot that has appropriate soil with water drainage.
2. Echeveria “Orange Monroe”
Image: istockphoto.com / Marco Ritzki
This is a smaller succulent and is a great choice for those that have limited space in their homes and gardens. It has tiny rosettes that come in both orange and green, but the more the plant is exposed to the sun, the brighter the orange will get. The rosettes measure around six inches wide.
It is a fairly easy plant to care for. Just make sure not to overwater it or it can develop fungal problems and root rot.
3. Begonia Boliviensis
Image: istockphoto.com / Artush
This plant has green leaves and red stems with strikingly orange blossoms. It is a native plant of the Andes mountains in Bolivia and can reach between 12 and 18 inches tall.
It is a perfect choice for anyone that has a vertical garden because of how the succulent grows. It loves a shaded spot that has limited exposure to sunlight, but needs some sunlight to help in its production of flowers.
It is advisable to plant the begonia in a pot as it does not do well in colder climates; it will need to be brought inside to a warm and dry place in the winter.
4. Sedum Adolphii “Golden Sedum”
Image: istockphoto.com / Steve Bridge
This golden sedum is best grown in hanging containers or on the ground because it is a trailing succulent. It can reach up to eight inches in height. It has yellowish green leaves that form rosettes that are around an inch and a half long. The leaves turn orange after getting appropriate amounts of sunlight.
In the spring, white flowers will appear in succession, not all at once. Like most succulents, this plant will need a well-draining container and exposure to partial sunlight. It does not do well in the cold, so it will need to be moved indoors in the fall and winter.
5. Graptosedum “California Sunset”
Image: istockphoto.com / JNemchinova
This succulent has small rosettes composed of rosy orange foliage. It is a hybrid of the Graptopetalum paraguayense and the Sedum adolphii plants.
Its leaves do not start out as orange immediately. Unlike most other orange succulents, the California sunset becomes orange when it is exposed to winter temperatures. New growth is a green color but will soon turn into its signature orange color as it matures. Its white, heart-shaped flowers bloom during the spring and summer.
Plant it in a well-draining container and give it partial sunlight in order for it to thrive.
6. Lithops Karasmontana “Orange Ice”
Image: istockphoto.com / Nada Bascarevic
This is an unassuming plant that can grow only up to about two inches tall. This is a native plant of South Africa that has green, three-sided leaves and orange flowers with yellow centers. They grow in dense clumps that will spread to the sides. Its chunky leaves grow in pairs and have an orange center.
The plant produces white flowers in the fall. It is a relatively slow growing succulent that usually only needs repotting every couple of years. It also only needs to be watered if the first inch of topsoil is completely dry. It prefers to be exposed to full sunlight, as it helps open the flowers.
7. Sedum Nussbaumerianum
Image: istockphoto.com / Michel VIARD
This succulent is a native plant of Mexico, and despite its intimidating name, is actually an easy plant to care for. A mature plant can be eight inches tall and three feet wide. It has long and plump leaves that come in a variety of colors, depending on the amount of light it gets.
When it is given plenty of sunlight, it becomes a coppery-orange color. Make sure you do not overexpose it to the sun as this can result in burning. This bright orange succulent variety makes a great ground plant outdoors and a great hanging plant indoors.
8. Mammillaria Elongata Cristata “Copper King”
Image: istockphoto.com / shinpanu thamvisead
This cactus has a cylindrical shape and can measure up to six inches tall. Its stems have orange spines all over them which really make the pink or pale yellow flowers stand out. The plant thrives in a well-draining cactus soil mix that allows excess water to drain and avoid root rot.
The Copper King does not like frosty temperatures, so it is better to plant it in a pot so you can take it indoors once the seasons start to change. In the fall or winter, simply place the plant near a window or under a grow light if there is no sunlight.
Conclusion
If you are looking to add the color orange to your collection of succulents, there are plenty of options available to you. Most, if not all, of them are low maintenance plants that only really need a well-draining pot and appropriately airy succulent soil. Most of them need exposure to sunlight to get their beautiful orange hues, but make sure you get them some shade as well.
Once your orange succulents have reached their full potential, your garden will never be the same.
Succulents are easy to care for and commonly used to decorate patios and certain areas at home. However, they also suffer from diseases and other plant disorders that could pose great risks. Succulent edema is one such condition. Read on for insightful tips on how to diagnose and treat this condition among succulents.
Succulent edema: What it is and conditions that lead to it
Succulent edema causes bumps, blisters and rough spots on succulents and plants. The spots are either brown, red, white, black or yellow. It indicates an imbalance, but it is not fatal and acts as an early warning signal to correct your cultivation process to avoid any serious damages.
Succulent edema is a disorder of the transpiration system, resulting in small scars on the leaves of the plants. The scars are cork-like patches and rough, often raised like a blister. These scars are small and irregularly shaped and can affect other types of plants as well.
While root rot is characterized by decayed roots due to excess water in the soil, succulent edema results from healthy roots that take up water more rapidly than the leaves can release back into the air. Unlike overwatered succulents, the disorder affects a few cell walls near the skin. Most likely, the cells were already weakened and bruised before the conditions leading to edema.
Conditions that lead to succulent edema
These are the conditions that lead to succulent edema:
When plant roots take up excess water when the soil and water are warm.
When there is too much water in the soil, forcing healthy roots to take up water more quickly.
When high humidity or fog slows the ability of leaves to release water into the air.
When cold air temperature slows the plant’s release of water into the air.
When poor air circulation slows the leaves’ ability to release water into the air.
When there is improper fertilization.
How to diagnose succulent edema:
A noticeable sign of succulent edema is brown spots on succulents. However, this may also be due to insects, sunburn or insect damage. To be certain if the spots are due to edema, you need a powerful magnifying glass. It will show you if the brown spots have legs, or if they are a defect in the skin–which is an indication of succulent edema.
Sunburn in succulent leaves occurs over a broader area and is flat and relatively smooth, while edema scars are raised like blisters. Sunburned leaves have single swaths of burned skin while with edema it could be a single small scar or separate little scars that form randomly. Sunburn is always on the surface while edema blisters can occur on the underside of leaves.
Treatment for Succulent Edema
These are the ways to treat succulent edema:
Use fast-draining succulent soil to avoid waiter build-up in the soil.
Opt for a container or pot with good drainage so the soil won’t stay wet.
Water the plants only if the soil is parched or dry.
Do not over-fertilize your succulents. Time-release plant food adds fertilizer when plants are growing slowly and it could increase the risk of edema.
Do not water succulents with warm water on cool, humid or overcast days.
Succulent edema is not a disease nor is it bacterial or viral. It is not contagious since it is not a sickness. It is an injury and disorder that serves as a signal regarding your plants’ health and growing conditions. Edema marks are permanent scars and cannot be removed, but your succulents can still grow large and will eventually outgrow them.
If you begin to notice symptoms like brown spots and suspect that it is succulent edema, increase light and air circulation and decrease the water that you provide.
Conclusion
Succulents are great-looking plants that are low-maintenance and do not need too much attention. However, they are also prone to disorders and conditions like succulent edema. This disorder indicates an imbalance and while it is not fatal, it serves as an early warning signal to correct the cultivation process before any serious damage occurs.
Succulents add beauty and color to gardens, patios, homes and offices. They are easy to care for and do not have to be watered often. However, these hardy plants are also tempting snacks for animals and pests. Read on and get to know why!
What’s eating my succulent leaves?
These are the common culprits:
1. Birds
Birds eat succulent leaves out of curiosity, as well as the nutrition and extra water they can get from them, especially if they are nesting nearby. They could also be pecking, biting and eating the leaves to bury nuts and seeds in the soil.
How to determine if birds are eating your succulents:
Check if there is small and round excrement near the plants. If you see white excrement or urates, then your suspicion is right. Birds also tend to peck at leaves, so check for small holes instead of bitten-off chunks.
How to prevent birds from eating your succulents:
Scare them off by using spikes, scarecrows or bird deterrents. You can also place devices that mimic owl sounds to scare off the birds. Since birds tend to eat succulents because they are thirsty, so you could also opt to place a birdbath or a basin of water near the succulents. To discourage them from digging in the soil, put rocks and pebbles around the plants.
2. Squirrels and other rodents like rats
Squirrels and other rodents eat succulent leaves and they are notorious for digging through gardens and yards. They chew and eat the leaves, uproot the plants and dig holes that they would fill with their favorite food.
How to determine if squirrels are eating your succulents:
You will know that squirrels are eating your plants if you see jagged tear marks and deep wounds in the leaves. They also take big chunks out of plants, but they usually do not take more than a few bites.
How to prevent squirrels and other rodents from eating your succulents:
Cover the soil with topdressing like rocks or pebbles. You can also install a motion-activated sprinkler to deter them harmlessly. The use of mesh wire to cover the plants may also keep the rodents away. Other deterrents that you can use are cayenne pepper, peppermint oil and garlic cloves.
3. Other animals like possums, cats and deer
Possums, cats and deer tend to eat succulent leaves, especially if they are hungry or thirsty. Possums are omnivorous and like to eat succulents like Echeveria and Graptopetalum succulents.
Cats do not typically eat succulents, but they tend to nibble on it just as they would nibble on grasses. Meanwhile, deer are also attracted to succulents, especially if they are looking for water sources.
How to determine if these animals are eating your succulents:
Possums are most likely the culprit if you see portions of your succulents are missing. Cats tend to shred the leaves with their sharp claws while the deer will usually take big bites off the leaves or plants.
How to prevent these animals from eating your succulents:
To deter possums from your garden, plant spiky plants around the area to drive them away. You can also put garlic around the area, as possums do not like the smell. Discourage cats from going near your succulents by using deterrent sprays or vinegar and citrus sprays.
Keep deer away from succulents by securing your garden with a fence, planting companion plants alongside your succulents, or placing bar soap near the plants as deer hate its scent.
Electric or ultrasonic devices and motion-activated sprinklers could also work for these animals. Protect your succulents by placing them in a greenhouse or keep them inside the home, especially the potted ones.
4. Bugs
Bugs also like to eat succulent leaves. These small but terrible pests that feast on your plants are aphids and mealybugs. They may not take big chunks off, but they suck on leaves because of the sap, making the leaves deformed and black spots may also appear. They can colonize plants and reproduce quickly and could cause great damage to your succulents.
How to determine if aphids and mealybugs are eating your succulents:
Check for honeydew or sugary, sticky fluid on your succulents, as well as for the presence of ants. If you notice their presence, it is most likely that aphids are in your plants. Aphids are easy to spot and they are usually black, brown or orange-colored.
Meanwhile, mealybugs also excrete honeydew and they are usually white, bright yellow-green or light pink. They have white egg sacs that look like cotton.
These pests are easily removed by washing them off, but if there is a heavy infestation you need to use insecticides like Pyrethrin or natural pyrethrum to effectively kill the pests. Some plant owners also use neem oil or spray the occasional pests with rubbing alcohol.
Conclusion
Succulents are lovely to look at and colorful accents for your patios, homes or offices. However, because of the thick and fleshy leaves that contain sap or watery juices, these plants are tempting. They attract a variety of pests, such as birds, squirrels, rodents and other animals like cats and deer, as well as aphids and mealybugs.
It is very important to consider the possibility of our pets biting or eating the plants in our home before we decide on getting the plant. There are succulents that are toxic when ingested by certain animals. Reptiles are becoming more and more common as household pets, and one of the most popular reptile pets is the bearded dragon.
They are popular because they do tend to be quite docile around humans, making them great companions. In this article, we will discuss the succulents that are perfectly safe for your lizard to eat.
Are all succulents safe for bearded dragons to eat?
No, there are succulents that you should keep far away from your bearded dragon, or even consider getting rid of completely. The succulents that need to be kept out of your dragon’s reach are the euphorbia, amaryllis, kalanchoe, and the jade plant.
Which succulents are safe for bearded dragons?
Sedum morganianum
This plant is also called the burro’s tail. They are great for interior decorating, especially if they are in a planter. They can also add beautiful texture to your outdoor garden.
These plants do not like direct sunlight but will thrive in a shaded area. They can get sun damage if placed directly under the sun. This plant also cannot tolerate frosty conditions, so make sure you bring them indoors during the winter.
This is non-toxic and safe to be around your dragon.
Sempervivum
This plant is also known as ‘hen and chicks’. These plants are non-toxic to your dragon, and come in many different colors. They can reproduce efficiently and are very easy to care for. They prefer being in the shade or in filtered shade, which makes them great as both indoor or outdoor plants. They can survive in extreme temperatures, even in the cold.
Lithops
These plants are also called little rocks because they can be easily mistaken for rocks or pebbles. Their colors are also similar to rocks making them blend even more in nature. This succulent is very resilient and will grow well in your outdoor garden.
They can live under the sun and are also safe for bearded dragons. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said for the lithops themselves, because bitey animals are going to disfigure their naturally beautiful shape.
X pachyveria
This succulent is safe not only for bearded dragons, but for most pet. It is a hybrid between the Echeveria and the Pachyphytum. They come in the colors violet to green when grown properly. They do well in outdoor gardens and they actually prefer direct sunlight.
They do not do well in the winter, so you might have to take them indoors when the time comes. Their vibrant colors make them very appealing to your bearded dragon.
Echeveria
The Echeveria is one of the most popular succulents in the world. This is because they are easy to propagate and to care for. They are also non-toxic to pets, including bearded dragons. These plants thrive in the outdoors and are able to tolerate the hot sun.
The variety of colors that they come in will also bring color to any garden.
Haworthia
These succulents are non-toxic and they make for great indoor plants. They do not need too much sunlight and actually do better in low light. There are plenty of types of Haworthia which come in different colors, shapes, and sizes.
The only thing you need to keep in mind is not to give them more water than they need. Overwatered plants can get root rot and make them susceptible to fungal problems. Make sure you plant them in appropriate soil and a well-draining pot.
Schlumbergera
Another plant that is safe to keep around bearded dragons is the schlumbergera. It is a low maintenance plant that is tolerant of different climate conditions. They are ideal for planters and hanging pots.
The schlumbergera prefers an indirect light source and their soil to be soaked with water when they do need to get watered. Be sure not to overwater this succulent, just like the others. It is a tough succulent that can withstand all kinds of weather conditions.
Apparently, this plant is quite tasty to our reptilian friends.
Aeonium
This type of succulent comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. They vary between two inches and three feet in height. They come in a rainbow of vibrant colors that will surely light up any room they are in.
This plant has been known to survive both very hot and very cold weather which makes them easy to look after and to propagate.
Stapelia
This plant has strikingly beautiful star-shaped flowers. This cactus can be a great addition to your garden. Its flowers can come in the colors purple, yellow, and red. Interestingly, the flowers can have different scents depending on the plant.
The smell can either be sweet like most flowers, or putrid, which is not common amongst flower scents. These plants prefer filtered sunlight and they are not able to tolerate winter cold. You may need to take them into your house during the season, which will not be a problem for your dragon because it is completely safe to be ingested by them.
Conclusion
The moment you get a pet, they become a part of your family. Their needs should be prioritized above your wants. If you really want to get a certain succulent, be a responsible pet owner and do your research to make sure that that plant will not be toxic if ingested by your pet.
Bearded dragons can be curious creatures and will probably take a bite of the plants in your house. So if the plant you really want to get is toxic to your dragon, the choice you make should be easy and always for the safety of your pet.
Succulent vines, or hanging succulents, are becoming fast favorites of most succulent aficionados. They are relatively easy to grow and care for, plus they look stunning hanging in your living room or patio. The way they hang over their pots gives them plenty of character and charm.
In this article, we will discuss some of the most beautiful and striking succulent vines. If you are looking for more of these plants to add to your garden, keep on reading.
Sedum Morganianum “Burro’s tail”
This plant is also known as the donkey’s tail. It can grow quickly and is very easy to propagate. A mature burro’s tail’s trailing foliage can reach up to three feet long. You can place this plant in a hanging basket and hang it in a spot where it can get lots of sunlight.
When summer comes around, you will be treated to beautiful pink and red flowers. Make sure not to overwater it to avoid root rot.
Aloiampelos Ciliaris “Climbing Aloe”
The aloe family has over 500 varieties, and the climbing aloe is one of them. This slender plant is a favorite amongst collectors because it is a great trailing plant. They are low maintenance and will start to produce different colored flowers as they mature.
Senecio Rowleyanus “String of Pearls”
This plant does not care where it is planted– it will still turn out to be a beautiful plant. They are originally from South Africa, but are now one of the most sought after succulents in the world. The stems of this plant can reach up to three feet long, which looks great when allowed to hang from a hanging pot.
When its stem is cut, it tends to split into multiple stems which will continue growing, giving the plant its multidimensional beauty. These stems are then lined with small leaves that look like peas.
Senecio Herreianus “String of Beads”
This plant shares many similarities with the String of Pearls, but instead of leaves that look like peas, their leaves are oval-shaped and pointed. Their stems can also reach three feet in length and will split into multiple stems when the main stem is cut.
You can choose to plant it in a hanging basket or on the ground as ground cover. They are drought-tolerant but cannot tolerate frost. They do not like direct sunlight. When they are healthy, they will produce white flowers that smell just like vanilla.
Kleinia Petraea “Trailing Jade”
This plant is also called the vining jade or the weeping jade. This low maintenance plant is drought-tolerant. Its oval-shaped leaves and thick stems give it a very elegant look. During the winter, its leaves become a gorgeous shade of purple.
Crassula Perforata “String of Buttons”
This plant looks best when placed in a planter that allows it to spill over the rim as it grows. It is a fast-growing plant that does well when planted in well-draining soil and watered less frequently.
When the plant is kept in a spot where it gets sufficient sunlight, its leaves will turn pinkish-red around the edges.
Senecio Radicans “String of Bananas”
This plant is fast-growing and its stems can grow to be three feet long. It gets its amusing name because of how the leaves look just like little bananas. They also have lavender, yellow, or white flowers that smell just like cinnamon when they are in bloom.
The stems of this plant can be cut and propagated easily, just like the other Senecio varieties. They will do well in a tall planter or hanging basket.
Fishhook Senecio
This plant is often confused with the string of bananas because they do look very similar to each other. But if you take a closer look at its leaves, they are flatter and longer than the string of bananas’ leaves.
The leaves resemble fish hooks, hence the name. The leaves are a blue green color. They can be planted in the ground where it will grow like a vine or in a hanging basket where its stems will cascade down.
Othonna Capensis “Ruby Necklace”
This plant has very colorful foliage that can either be burgundy, purple, or green. They can produce yellow flowers that look a lot like daisies. The plant has to be under the sun for the flowers to bloom. It has long, narrow, bean-like leaves on its purple stem. Plant it in a neutral colored planter or pot for its vibrant colors to really shine.
Hoya Pachyclada “Wax Plant”
This plant is one of the slowest growing types in the Hoya genus. It thrives in well-draining succulent soil and warm, humid weather. During the spring and summer, the plant will produce glossy white flowers. Its leaves are green with red edges, all with a signature waxy appearance.
Dischidia Nummularia “String of Nickels”
This plant’s natural habitat is the rainforest, where it grows on the trunks and branches of other trees. It has blue green leaves that are round and flat like nickels, hence the name. This plant will look right at home in a hanging basket or tall planter.
If healthy, this plant will produce beautiful white flowers. They need more humidity than most other succulents because of their natural habitat, and they prefer a shaded area.
Crassula Pellucida Variegata “Calico Kitten”
This succulent’s leaves can come in a combination of the colors cream, purple, pink, and green. It has heart-shaped variegated leaves that make it a perfect plant for the indoors. The plant’s trailing leaves look beautiful hanging off of a basket or on the ground as a cover. When the plant is placed under direct sunlight, its leaves turn a rich purple color and will produce white flowers.
Ceropegia Linearis “String of Hearts”
When you see this plant, it is quite obvious where it gets its name. The leaves are shaped like hearts and can come in the colors purple, silver, or blue green. This plant is also part of the Hoya genus. They will look great hanging in the corner of your patio, or in a planter trailing as vines. This plant is low maintenance and likes to be in a room with lots of indirect light.
Conclusion
Succulent vines or hanging succulents are becoming more and more popular amongst succulent enthusiasts because of how easy they are to grow and care for, plus how simple it is to propagate them. Not only are they low maintenance plants that need very basic plant care, they also bring much beauty and charm into any space they are in.
Whether they are planted on the ground as a ground cover, or in a tall planter with its stems spilling over the rim, or in a dainty hanging basket in the corner of your patio, these plants are undeniably gorgeous.
Succulents are famous for being drought-resistant plants that can go for days without being watered. Many plant enthusiasts are curious to know if they can be grown both outside and inside a home or building. Can these plants thrive in both types of conditions? Read on to get the details.
Are succulents indoor or outdoor plants?
Succulents are both indoor and outdoor plants because they can grow well in both environments. However, some varieties are more adapted to the indoors and some prefer the outdoors. This is usually seen in the vibrance of their colors and their overall health.
Things to know when caring for succulents
Here are some basic things to know when caring for succulents either indoors or outdoors:
Succulents need more water during summer.
Although these plants are popular for being drought-resistant, it does not mean that you can completely neglect them. They require more water during the hot season. If you live in an area with minimal rainfall, water in-ground plants at least once a week. Plants that are in pots or containers should be watered at least three times a week.
During fall and winter, you can water the plants occasionally.
Make sure to reduce the irrigation of plants during the fall and winter seasons for them to be able to withstand the lower temperatures. Overwatering them will result in soggy soil and soft, new growth. The plants tend to become damaged with freezes.
Use reliable sources to learn about the ideal succulents to grow in your area.
If you are unsure what type of varieties will thrive well in your region, gather information from reliable sources. These would be local suppliers like nurseries, botanical gardens, and succulent plant groups. They are certified experts in the field of succulents and they will be more than willing to help you get started with your succulent collection.
Succulents that are best for indoors
These are the succulents that tend to grow best indoors:
1. Burro’s Tail
Burro’s tail or donkey’s tail is also known as Sedum morganianum and has stems that can reach up to three feet long. It is a trailing succulent that is ideally placed in a hanging basket or a container sitting on a plant stand or shelf. It has gray-green leaves that resemble the size and shape of plump rice grains.
The leaves have a pale sheen which, when touched, will show your fingertips. They also fall easily so avoid handling the plant too often. The plant is endemic to Mexico and favors bright light so it can grow well.
2. Christmas Cactus
Also known by its scientific name, Schlumbergera, this plant has no sharp spines. The plant prefers more moisture than its close cousin the cactus, so always water the topsoil in the container if it is dry. It has fleshy, flat, segmented stems that can reach a few feet in length. These stems seem to drape the plant, which have earned it the moniker “crab claw cactus.” Keep this plant near a window where it can have bright light. It usually blooms during the winter season.
3. Hens and Chicks
There are two kinds of succulents that have the same name, although they look quite different: Echeveria elegans and Sempervivum tectorum. Both plants produce chicks, or small and identical plants that are slightly offset from the mother plant (the hen). Echeveria elegans have flat, flowerlike rosettes with rounded edges. The plant grows bell-shaped blooms yearly.
Sempervivum tectorum also has rosettes, but the leaves are flatter and more pointed and have tiny star-shaped flowers. These succulents come in various varieties and shapes. Both plants do well with bright light near a window. Allow them to dry between waterings to avoid root rot.
4. Jade Plant
The jade plant is also called Crassula ovata and has stocky, branched stems with thick and glossy leaves that are oftentimes tinged with red on the edges when exposed to full sun. Some varieties, such as the Gollum, have leaves that look like green monster fingers. If grown indoors, they stay about a foot tall and can become top-heavy, so it is ideal to plant them in terra cotta pots. Keep the soil dry between waterings to keep your jade plant healthy.
5. Aloe Vera
This plant has a cluster of long, slender leaves and a short stem. It eventually produces more clusters called offsets that can fill a whole container. It is known for its miracle sap that treats wounds and sunburn. It also has sharp, teeth-like edges, so always handle the plant with care. It prefers to grow in dry soil and likes to be near a bright light.
6. Panda Plant
The panda plant, or Kalanchoe tomentosa, has fuzzy, gray-green leaves with soft, silvery hairs. It has brown or rust-colored spots and can reach about two feet tall, although it grows very slowly. Water the plant at the base and do not include the leaves so they won’t rot.
7. Snake Plant
Snake plant, or Sansevieria trifasciata, has thick, stiff, pointed leaves that grow straight up. This plant can survive weeks without water or light and eventually multiplies into a thick clump that fills the whole pot. The plant prefers medium to bright light and only needs a little water when the soil is dry.
Succulents that are best for outdoors
These are the succulents that usually grow better outdoors:
1. Aeonium
This plant is a native of the Canary Islands. It prefers more moisture than other varieties. Darker varieties tolerate the sun more than lighter varieties. It usually grows in the form of rosettes and flowers and looks dainty in container gardens and landscaped areas.
2. Agave
This plant is a favorite plant for landscaping. The leaves can be smooth, toothed, sword-shaped, or in rosettes. The in-ground varieties grow more quickly and produce more flowers compared to those placed in pots or containers.
3. Dasylirion
This plant resembles a palm, but it is a succulent plant. The leaves are usually green, greyish, or blue-green and have small, sharp teeth-like growths along the edges. Its small trunk can become woody and it can grow in the desert, although it also prefers some water now and then.
4. Dudleya
This plant is a native of Baja, California and the Southwestern United States. It has rosette-shaped flowers with fleshy petals that can be green, grey, purple, red, or a mixed variety. Dudleya is perfect for patios and pergolas, as well as rock gardens. The flowers can be pink, red, yellow, or white, and they attract many birds.
5. Euphorbia
This plant resembles the cactus. Some varieties are globe-shaped, and others are great garden accents. It is also known as spurge. There are around 1,000 species of the euphorbia family. Poinsettia is a famous variety that can be grown into a shrub or tree in areas with mild climates.
Conclusion
Succulents are easy to cultivate and propagate. They can both be planted and kept as indoor or outdoor plants, although there are varieties that prefer to be kept indoors while some prefer the outdoors. Some types of succulents that prefer the indoors include the snake plant and Christmas cactus, while those that like the outdoors include the agave and euphorbia.
Succulents are a popular choice for beginner plant owners because not only are they beautiful, but they are also low maintenance and very easy to take care of. But did you know that growing succulents also has plenty of benefits for the plant owner?
Aside from bringing nature’s beauty into your home, succulents can also help improve your concentration, be used for medicinal purposes, and can even improve air quality.
What are the benefits of growing succulents?
1. Growing succulents reduces stress.
Image: istockphoto.com / AtlasStudio
Multiple studies have shown that taking care of houseplants, in general, helps reduce one’s stress. It helps to calm you down, reduce your blood pressure, and ultimately recover from all of the stress you experienced during the day.
Coming home and seeing your plants will help you take your mind off of that stressful meeting at work. Succulents are so easy to take care of that they do not add much responsibility to you as a plant owner.
2. You can eat your succulents.
Image: istockphoto.com / LarisaBlinova
This, of course, does not apply to all succulents. Do not just break off a stem from any succulent and start chewing on it. Examples of edible succulents are the saguaro, opuntia, yucca, and sea beans.
Eating cactus might sound weird to those who have never eaten it, but you can try making salsa with cactus because it has a lot of fiber and vitamin C. Opuntia leaves are only 23 calories per cup, which really helps you out when you want to eat salsa but are also watching your weight.
Yucca can be made into fries and sea beans can be eaten raw or pan fried. They can make wonderful side dishes to a light meal such as fish.
3. Succulents can help improve your concentration.
Image: istockphoto.com / Pra-chid
We all know that keeping a small succulent on your desk is a great decoration, but it can also help you become more focused and productive at work.
Several studies were done where subjects were asked to complete a reading task, one group without a succulent on the desk, one group with several plants on the desk. The group that had the plants on the desk performed significantly better than the other group.
Another study several years later confirmed these same findings using succulents. The subjects’ attention and concentration improved when they had succulents on their desks.
4. Succulents have plenty of medicinal benefits.
Image: istockphoto.com / Ridofranz
For hundreds, if not thousands, of years, succulents have been used all over the world for their medicinal and healing properties. Succulents like the aloe vera and the yucca are the most widely known. Succulents have been used to treat gastrointestinal problems, burns, wounds, and more.
Yucca is now a known treatment for arthritis but has always been used to treat wounds and scratches. Its anti-inflammatory properties, saponins, and other antioxidants, reduce the joint pain and swelling in those that suffer from arthritis.
Aloe vera gel is a common ingredient in modern creams and lotions. Some people even swear by its effectiveness against eczema. Aloe vera juice is also a popular drink enjoyed by many. It helps reduce inflammation and helps with problems in the digestive system.
5. Succulents improve the quality of the air in your home.
Image: istockphoto.com / FollowTheFlow
Snake plants and aloe plants can remove the toxins floating in the air in your home. In fact, all indoor succulents can greatly help the air quality inside the house. This is because succulents have special pores on their leaves that absorb the gases in the air, such as ammonia and benzene.
6. Succulents can help humidify the air.
Image: istockphoto.com / Victoria Popova
Succulents can release water vapor into the air of your home through the same pores in their leaves mentioned above. The water vapor will add moisture into the air and keep it from becoming dry. This is important because dry air in your home can cause you to have a sore throat or dry skin.
7. Succulents add oxygen to your home.
Image: istockphoto.com / Photology1971
Other plants release carbon dioxide into your home at night, but succulents do not. In fact, these plants continue producing oxygen. As long as you are not allergic to succulents, keep them in your room at night to make sure you sleep well and have great oxygen flow all night long.
8. Succulents are able to adapt quickly to new environments.
Image: istockphoto.com / Lenny Kaiser
Succulents are very hardy plants that come from places in the world that have the harshest of climates. Most succulents are drought-tolerant. This means that they can survive on a very small amount of water.
If you need to take a weeklong trip, you need not worry about having to water your succulents because they can live up to two weeks without being watered.
Some succulents can also survive cold weather, even if they are native to the driest place on earth. Just make sure that you bring them indoors once snow starts to fall.
9. You can give them as gifts.
Image: istockphoto.com / nobtis
As mentioned above, succulents have so many benefits, which make them a logical choice as gifts. When you give a special person in your life a succulent as a gift, you are wishing them a healthy life and showing them that you care for them.
Plus, succulents are resilient and easy to take care of so the recipient should not have a hard time keeping your gift alive.
Conclusion
Succulents can benefit you in multiple ways, from bringing nature’s beauty into your home, to lifting up your mood, to giving you medicinal benefits. They are very easy to take care of and the advantages of adding them into your home are priceless. Give them to your loved ones as gifts and pay forward all of the blessings these plants have given you.
In North America, some varieties of succulents can cost a pretty penny depending on how rare they are. Most collectors will buy one of each type of succulent and simply propagate it when it becomes fully grown. This is their way of adding to their collection for free.
Most succulents are easy to take care of and propagate, but some are definitely easier than others. In this article, we will discuss the easiest succulents to propagate.
How to Propagate Succulents?
Do research about your plant.
Nowadays, identifying and reading up about the type of succulent you have will only take you a few minutes. Type your succulent’s name into any search engine and you can be well-informed about the do’s and don’ts of caring for the plant.
One such question you can get answers to is how to propagate your succulents. The internet is a vast library of knowledge, and most gardeners and succulent enthusiasts are very open to answering questions from beginners.
Join local Facebook groups with other plant collectors. Not only can they help in identifying your plant, but they will also be able to provide helpful tips and tricks.
Choose a full grown plant.
Even immature succulents will grow new plants from their fallen leaves, but it is always better to pick a bigger and more mature plant with large leaves and plenty of branches to choose from. The bigger the leaf you choose, the healthier the new plant will be.
Let the plant dry out.
This is not necessary, but the leaves are easier to remove from the stem if the plant is thirsty. An overwatered succulent’s leaves will fall off because it has too much water in it. These plump leaves will not grow new plants.
Remove only a few leaves.
Make sure you do not get too ahead of yourself and pick too many leaves off. A few leaves from the plant will do, about three or four. This is advisable because you do not want to stress out the original plant. Picking too many leaves only for the propagation not to work would be wasteful.
Propagate during the growing season.
This is where your research will come in handy. You should know when your plant’s growing season is. A plant’s growing season is when it grows the fastest. Some plants grow in the summer and are dormant in the winter, while other plants are the opposite.
When succulents are dormant, you will have a difficult time propagating.
Choose the bottom leaves.
The leaves at the bottom of the succulent are the most mature ones. This is most noticeable in plants that grow in a rosette formation, because the leaves at the bottom are the easiest to pull out whole. If you need to, remove the plant from the soil so it is easier to pull the leaves off whole. The ease with which the leaves are removed will depend on the type of plant. Make sure the leaves you pull off are not torn, broken, damaged, or still partially stuck to the stem.
Take the whole leaves you removed and place them on a towel or a tray to keep them dry. Place the towel or tray on a windowsill. The new plants will appear in a couple of weeks.
Plant your new plants when they are ready.
If there is an obvious new plant and some roots, you can plant it in a succulent soil mix and slowly introduce it to the sun. It is best to start with morning sun as this is the most gentle for young plants. Soon you can start watering your new succulents too. Just make sure their pots have drainage holes so they do not get overwatered.
The Easiest Succulents to Propagate
Sempervivum “Hens and chicks”
This is a cold-resistant succulent that is able to grow well outdoors, even in northern states. The main plant, or the “hen” will produce the new plants, or “chicks” by itself. When the new plants start growing roots, you can separate them from the main plant and put them in their own pot. Use a sharp knife to cut the new plant from the main plant.
Aloe Vera
This is probably the most popular succulent in the world. The plant can produce baby plants along its side, but it can also be propagated using its leaves. The leaf option is doable, but propagating it through its offshoots is much easier.
You can check if a baby plant is ready to be removed from the main plant by removing the dirt and checking to see if the baby plant has formed its own roots. Transfer it to its own pot with succulent soil mix. Make sure the pot has drainage holes.
Kalanchoe “Mother of Thousands”
This succulent gets its name from the fact that it can actually make baby plants right on its leaves. This plant can reproduce very quickly and is a great choice for an indoor plant. When the baby plants are ready to grow on their own, they will simply fall off of the main plant. You can just pick them up and plant them in their own pot. This plant really is the perfect succulent for a beginner.
Burro’s Tail
When the leaves of this succulent fall off, they will start to root and grow new plants themselves. You can help it along by taking the fallen leaves and placing them atop damp succulent soil. You can use leaves or cuttings to propagate this plant since they will both grow well.
String of Pearls
This succulent may be tricky to grow but it is fairly easy to propagate. When you propagate this plant, you cut off a four inch long strand and place the cut end directly into the soil. Do not expose the new plant to direct sunlight; instead, place it in a shaded area. Make sure you do not overwater it.
Sedum “Jelly Bean Plant”
Much like the burro’s tail, this succulent is easy to propagate. You simply need to remove some leaves and place them on top of damp succulent soil. The roots will form after a couple of weeks and soon enough, you will have new jelly bean plant babies.
Conclusion
Most succulents are simple to propagate, but some are much easier to propagate than others.
You need to choose a mature plant that has big leaves which you can remove easily from the bottom layers. Let the leaves dry out and wait for the roots and baby plants to come in before you can plant them in soil. Examples of easy succulents to propagate are the Sempervivum, aloe vera, kalanchoe, burro’s tail, string of pearls, and the jelly bean plant.
Succulents add to the aesthetic features and charm of a home. Similarly, it is now a trend for modern office areas to include these plants as part of their interior design and decor. These plants enhance the atmosphere, put employees in a stress-free mode, and improve the quality of the air. Succulents are also easy to care for and can even go weeks without being watered.
Try some of these lovely succulents in your office.
Small Succulents
1. Bird’s Nest
Image: istockphoto.com / suriya silsaksom
Scientific name: Sansevieria trifasciata hahnii
Common names: Golden bird’s nest, golden hahnii, dwarf snake plant, dwarf mother-in-law’s tongue
Origin: Europe, India, Africa
Size: six to seven inches
This succulent plant features decorative bands of varying designs on its leaves. It grows as a dense rosette of dark green leaves. This small succulent plant rarely grows larger than seven inches and is ideal for small office spaces and as decor on desks and shelves. It tolerates low-light office areas and can even grow in a room with only fluorescent lights.
2. Dwarf Jade Plant
Image: istockphoto.com / toeytoey2530
Scientific name: Portulacaria afra
Common names: Elephant bush, elephant food, elephant plant, miniature jade, porkbush, spekboom, yellow rainbow bush, small leaf jade
Origin: South Africa
Size: six to eight inches
The dwarf jade plant is considered the ultimate office succulent since it has round, green, glossy leaves and a burgundy red stem that blends well with most office decors. This plant is also natural when shaped into classic bonsai shapes.
It resembles the jade plant but has rounder and smaller pads than the crassula ovate variety. It favors indirect sunlight near windows or low-light areas; if placed in very bright areas the leaves may become droopy.
This small aloe plant features a lace-like leaf pattern, and its rich green leaves are decorated with small white spots. It can be placed in small work areas and thrives well in an office setting since it can survive even though it is rarely watered.
The plant needs direct light from a window or overhead office lights and won’t do well in low-light environments.
Common names: Zebra plant, zebra haworthia, haworthia zebra
Origin: South Africa
Size: four inches
This plant is related to aloe plants and belongs to the same subfamily. It has distinctive horizontal white stripes on the leaves and prefers bright light, but can thrive well in low-light areas. Zebra cactus is an ideal office desk plant because of its cute size and low light needs.
Medium Succulents
5. Dwarf Century Plant
Image: istockphoto.com / ben-bryant
Scientific name: Agave desmettiana variegata
Common names: Variegated smooth agave, dwarf variegated agave, maguey, golden moments
Origin: Mexico
Size: two to three feet
This plant is a quick-growing succulent that is very low maintenance and fits well in office areas. It has soft, spear-shaped, blue-green leaves that form into rosettes and is edged with golden yellow stripes. This succulent looks charming under night lighting and favors direct light by a window or bright overhead lights.
6. Kalanchoe
Image: istockphoto.com / Denise Hasse
Scientific name: Kalanchoe luciae
Common names: Variegated paddle plant, variegated desert rose, shaved ice
Origin: Madagascar, Africa
Size: two feet
This plant has large gray-green leaves, splashes of cream and white, and red highlights on its edges. It adds color to any office nook but can also be placed near windows or in hallways. This succulent thrives well in both bright and low-light areas and also grows well in artificial lights.
7. Aloe Vera
Image: istockphoto.com / DAVIDJAMESSWANSON
Scientific name: Aloe barbadensis miller
Common names: Chinese aloe, Barbados aloe, burn aloe, Indian aloe, true aloe, first aid plant
Origin: Arabian peninsula
Size: six inches to three feet
This plant is easy to maintain and thrives well in both bright light and low light areas. It looks beautiful in office corners or hallways; as it matures the leaves drape gracefully around the plant. It is known to purify formaldehyde and benzene from indoor office air.
Large Succulents
8. Corn Plant
Image: istockphoto.com / Emilian Danaila
Scientific name: Dracaena fragrans
Common names: Cornstalk dracaena, money tree, cornstalk, dracaena massangeana, mass cane, happy plant
Origin: Africa
Size: six to eight feet
Corn plants thrive well in low-light areas and indirect sunlight. They usually have leaves that are on the outer edges and yellow in the center, or leaves with yellow and green stripes on the edges and green in the center. These large succulents have broad, glossy leaves and look great in reception areas or conference rooms. They remove formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethylene from office air.
This succulent plant is a member of the lily family. It has a slow growth rate and fits well in office spaces for a couple of years. The plant has lush, long, curly leaves and a sleek and bulb-like trunk. It is visually appealing and looks perfect in office hallways or reception areas.
The plant’s height can be controlled depending on the size of the pot that you use. It prefers full bright light but can also thrive in low-light areas.
Conclusion
Some succulents look great outdoors and in the garden while some varieties add beauty to homes or offices. The succulents for an office mentioned above each have a unique beauty and shape. Most of them thrive well in both bright and low-light areas.
These plants add visual appeal to office areas and hallways. Most importantly, they purify the office air and get rid of harmful compounds like formaldehyde, which can cause headaches and asthma.
Succulents are popular home and office plants because most varieties are small and colorful. These plants benefit from fertilizers because it helps them to grow well and produce vibrant colors. Commercial fertilizers are easily available and accessible, but you can always use homemade fertilizers that are less-expensive and still effective.
Homemade Fertilizer for Succulents: Common Types
These are some commonly used homemade fertilizers for succulents:
1. Banana Peels
Bananas contain potassium, which is important to plant growth. To use, simply throw one or two banana peels into a hole in the soil before planting the succulents. You can also place it under mulch to compost it, or pour pureed banana peels directly into the plants.
2. Coffee Grounds
Coffee grounds provide nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus, and other trace minerals to your plants. However, they are acidic, so be sure to soak and rinse them after you have used them for your coffee. To use as fertilizer, simply mix the coffee grounds into the soil around the succulents.
You can also use coffee grounds as a liquid fertilizer by soaking them in water for one week. When the water is ready, simply pour it onto the plants.
3. Eggshells
Eggshells are rich in calcium and potassium. They contain 83% calcium carbonate and help lower the acidity of the soil. To use as fertilizer, wash them first to remove any yolk or egg whites, then crush them and sprinkle or mix them in the soil.
You can also make eggshell tea by soaking crushed eggshells in boiling water to release the nutrients. When the liquid cools down, pour it onto the plants.
4. Weeds
Weeds can also be used as a fertilizer, either as compost or as a brew. They provide nitrogen and do not steal nutritional elements from the plants. You can cut them into small clippings, soak them in water, and let them sit for a day or two. Mix one cup of the solution with 10 cups of water and pour it at the base of the succulents.
5. Manure
Chicken, horse, and cow manure are also good fertilizers for plants. Make sure that these types of manure are composted and old since that works best for plants.
You can also make manure tea out of livestock manure by steeping it in water to be cured. The curing process is intended to destroy harmful pathogens that could harm the plants. Once the curing is complete, the finished product is placed in a sack resembling a teabag. The bags are then ready to steep in water that is applied or poured onto succulents.
6. Charcoal
Charcoal may not contain nutrients like other homemade fertilizers, but it helps in lowering carbon dioxide. This allows the roots to thrive and grow. You can add it to the base of the soil as it encourages airflow and helps absorb excess water. It controls moisture and helps prevent root rot.
Other organic fertilizers that you can use for your succulents are seaweeds, Epsom salt, and green tea. Seaweed contains trace elements that act as food for soil microbes. Epsom salt is rich in sulfate and magnesium and can help nourish the plants to grow greener and healthier.
Simply dissolve one tablespoon of Epsom salt in a gallon of water and use the mixture to water the plants. Green tea improves soil oxygenation and increases the level of nutrients in the ground allowing the roots to grow and thrive.
Pros and Cons of Homemade Fertilizer for Succulents
Pros
They improve the structural component of the potting soil and increase soil aeration.
They are ecologically friendly.
They are gentle and safe and help avoid leaching and toxic salt buildup.
They are very affordable since they are commonly available at home or in the environment.
They transform unhealthy soil and make it more suitable for plants.
Cons
There is a slower release of nutrients, which means it may take time before you see favorable results.
There can be a low supply despite the commonality of most homemade fertilizers since most plant and crop growers also use natural fertilizers.
It is messy and some may find it inconvenient. Other plant growers cannot tolerate the unpleasant odors of rotting organic matter and manure.
The nutritional value of homemade fertilizers is usually less than that of commercial fertilizers.
Conclusion
Succulents grow well and display vibrant colors when they are provided with the right amount of care and attention. Commercial fertilizers are effective in making them healthier, but you can also opt to use a homemade fertilizer for succulents.
These natural and organic fertilizers are ecologically friendly, cost-effective, and commonly available at home or in the environment. However, some plant owners may not prefer them because they can be messy or produce unpleasant odors.
Air plants, or tillandsia, can survive by taking all of the nutrients they need from the air, hence their name. They do not need to be planted in soil to survive.
They require very minimal maintenance and are perfect as ornaments for places where they can be left for long periods without supervision. Air plants are not succulents.
Succulents are a family of plants that have adapted to arid climates and are drought-resistant. They are able to store plenty of water in their leaves and bodies to tide them over until the rainy season returns.
Unlike air plants, they need to be planted in soil in order to survive. This is their only way of taking in water and the nutrients they need.
Air Plants
Air plants only grow on tree branches or on other plants in nature. There are hundreds of different kinds of air plants. They can come in different shapes and sizes, but they usually have triangle or strap-shaped leaves that grow from the center of the plant outward in a rosette pattern.
Some varieties of air plant can be resistant to drought, especially the ones with silver foliage. The ones with green foliage are more susceptible to the absence of water. Most air plants have funnel-shaped or tubular flowers that come in different colors.
Succulents
Succulents have thick and fleshy leaves that contain the water they store in their bodies. Their leaves can either look berry-like, ruffled, needle-like, spiky, or rounded. They are able to survive with minimal water, and they can even go dormant in order to preserve life until they can get more water.
They are very low-maintenance plants which are difficult to kill, no matter how forgetful their owner is. Succulents also come in a variety of colors, shapes, and sizes. They do not attract insects, and they are easy to prune and trim.
Is there a difference between air plants and succulents?
Yes. These two plants are different despite people confusing them sometimes. You can own both of these plants at the same time because they are both low maintenance. But keep in mind that they each have specific care instructions that may not be applicable to the other type.
Variety
Air plants are a much smaller group of plants compared to succulents. The genus Tillandsia has about 650 different species that all have similarities in their phenotypes.
Succulents, on the other hand, are a much more varied and bigger group of plants.
Growth
Air plants do not need soil to survive. Instead, their roots are exposed and wrapped around branches or anything sturdy to keep them from falling. The way these plants are watered is by placing them in a container with water and allowing them to soak for 30 minutes.
After the soaking, you remove them from the water and allow them to air dry upside down. Once a plant is dry, set it upright and place it back in its container.
Succulents need to be planted in soil and watered regularly in order to survive. They do not take well to being overwatered, as this will cause root rot and possibly death. Their pots need to have drainage holes for the excess water to drain through. Most succulents need direct sunlight for several hours a day to help their colors come out. They love to be outside or at least by a window.
Maintenance
Air plants are quite resilient, which makes them low maintenance plants that need minimal care. They can be owned by almost anybody and would have no problem. You simply need to soak them in water for 30 minutes once a week. Allowing them to dry after soaking them in water will prevent the growth of mold.
Succulents are also quite easy to look after. They just need to be around sunlight for six hours a day. Make sure you alternate the sides of the plant being hit by sunlight in order to prevent the plant from leaning to one side.
They are desert plants, so they know how to survive with very little water. It is easy to overwater them, especially if you are used to other plants that love water. Soil composition is also important.
There are commercial succulent soil mixes that are specially designed for succulents. They have ingredients like sand and perlite that help make the soil porous and drain better.
Variety of Colors
Air plants come in many different colors. Even the same species of air plant can have different colors. They mostly come in varying shades of green, but they can also come in deep red, burgundy, and violet. These colors can be affected by the plant’s life cycle or the amount of light it gets.
Air plants prefer to be shaded by the leaves of the trees they are attached to. When the light is filtered, this encourages the different colors to come out.
Succulents also come in different colors. When you make a succulent arrangement, it always looks visually pleasing when you mix and match different colored succulents. They can come in yellow, pink, burgundy, red, chartreuse, white, blue-green, and variegated.
Conclusion
Air plants are not a kind of succulent. They are their own family of plants. The two do have a lot of similarities in that they are both low maintenance and drought-resistant. Air plants need very minimal watering and get their nutrients from the air.
Succulents retain water well so you do not need to water them often. But they need to be planted in the ground because that is how they absorb the nutrients they need to survive.
Both plants are recommended for beginner plant owners because they are easy to look after and very hard to kill. They also happen to both be very striking ornamental plants.
The size a succulent grows to is dependent on several factors. The most obvious of these is the vessel that they are planted in. Succulents, like most plants, need to be repotted the larger their roots get. The more space their roots have to grow into, the bigger the actual plant is going to be.
Make sure you are using the correct soil for your succulent and that it has proper drainage to avoid root rot. Make sure the soil mix you are using has the right amount of nutrients as well.
If your succulent is provided with all of the necessary components to thrive, it will grow into the biggest it can possibly become, dependent on the kind of succulent, of course.
Know your succulent
Before you assume your succulents will grow to massive sizes, temper your expectations and learn about your specific succulent type. Identify whether your succulent is small and slow-growing or big and fast-growing.
If you are aware of what your succulent’s name is, look up its maximum size and speed of growth on the internet. If you are unaware of the succulent’s name, try joining local Facebook groups that talk about succulents and gardening in general. You will likely find several members knowledgeable enough to identify your plant.
If you have identified your succulent, do ample research regarding its care. Know the kind of soil it likes, how often it needs to be watered, how much sunlight it needs, and how to properly prune and repot it. The more information you read on the plant, the easier it will be to care for it in the future.
Succulents thrive in the ground
Succulents are great indoor plants, but placing them in pots can be very limiting to some types. Succulents will flourish and grow most quickly when placed in the ground. Unfortunately, there are parts of the world that have harsh winters.
Most succulents will die due to frost and ice. Thankfully, there are ways to grow succulents indoors during the winter.
In an ideal climate, the succulent’s root system will have plenty of room to grow when planted in the ground. Make sure you plant your succulents in a part of the garden that does not hold pooled water. It has to be in an area with great drainage. Place a sun-loving succulent under the sun and place shade-loving succulents under a tree or anywhere with shade.
Succulents will typically grow well in the ground even in poorer soil, but if you use good quality soil, they will prosper.
Use a bigger pot
As with most plants, if the plant has room for the roots to grow, the plant will grow better. This is still dependent on the type of plant, but if it is a succulent that can become quite big, then it is going to grow. If it is a small plant that is naturally slow-growing, there is not much one can do to try to make it bigger.
If your succulent is an indoor plant, repot it to a pot that is designed for a plant three times its size. If it outgrows the new pot, repot it into another larger pot. Continue doing this until the plant is no longer getting bigger.
Repotting succulents into even a slightly bigger pot regularly will help the succulent because you are essentially replanting it in fresh and healthy soil each time. This way you can also periodically check its root health. Potting mix has organic matter, so it can harbor fungi and pests. Transferring your succulent regularly will serve as a monthly physical examination.
Give your succulent its ideal living situation
Succulents are relatively easy to care for: as long as you provide them with their basic needs, they will grow beautifully.
Most succulents love the sunlight. They have to be exposed to sunlight for several hours a day to grow and be healthy. This is why it is important to do your research regarding the plants you plan on owning.
For plants that need sunlight, you can place them in an area of your house or yard that gets ample morning light but is shaded in the afternoon. In the fall and winter, it may be best to take your succulents indoors, as these plants do not tolerate the cold well.
Know when your succulent is dormant
Some succulents become dormant in the summer, while others wait until winter. Know when your succulent goes dormant so you do not try and encourage it to grow when it literally cannot. If you know that your succulent is dormant, just let it be and it will keep growing when it is ready.
Keep your succulents safe as they grow
Because succulents have a rough, hardy look, most people think they are able to be constantly touched and moved. Succulents may be less delicate because of the places they originated from, but they are actually very sensitive to physical damage. This damage can greatly impact the growth process of your succulent. Sometimes, a scratch can take weeks, or even months to fully heal.
Keep your succulents out of your pet’s and children’s reach. Your pet might bite or trample it, while your toddler might play with it. This is especially important for succulents that have thorns and spines. Keep your succulents away from areas affected by strong wind as the pots may fall over and break.
Conclusion
The size of a succulent is still primarily dependent on the type of succulent it is. If it is a naturally large succulent, providing it with all of its needs by doing research on proper care should be enough. It will grow to its full potential as long as it is looked after. A small succulent, no matter what you do to make it grow larger than what is natural, will never grow bigger.
Identify your succulent and learn how to care for it, plant it in the ground if possible, repot it gradually to a bigger pot as it grows larger, know when it is dormant, and keep it safe from your pets and children.
Succulents are drought-resistant plants that are quite tolerant of insects. While some of these pests may not bother the plants, some are harmful and may inflict serious damage to your succulents.
Common succulent pests
These are some of the common succulent pests:
Mealybugs
These bugs are common pests among cacti and succulents. These tiny and elliptical insects are gray or light brown-colored and are two to three millimeters long. They are named after the waxy or mealy white material that they produce. If you notice white cottony substance or fuzz in your succulents, it means mealybugs are thriving in them.
Mealybugs produce honeydew or a sugary substance that could promote mold growth and succulents may become susceptible to fungal and bacterial infections. These bugs also consume the sap from the leaves which leads to yellowed and wilted leaves. They easily spread among the plants and usually live on the underside of the leaves and joints of the plants.
Scales
These insects have two groups that attack succulents: armored and soft scale. There are over a thousand species of these insects that vary in size, color and shape. Small, brown bumps in your plants indicate a scale problem. These pests eat the sap, damage the plants and make them susceptible to diseases.
Aphids
These small insects are also called greenflies or plant lice and they have fat and teardrop-shaped bodies. They come in various colors, though most commonly green. They thrive in large numbers and they suck on leaves or flowers found at the end of the stems.
Aphids also secrete honeydew(a sugary white substance) as they feed on the sap. The honeydew attracts the growth of molds and when these pests suck on the plants’ tissues, the leaves become misshapen and growth is stunted.
Spider mites
These mites are small and their presence is hard to detect. These pests like to suck on the sweet sap of succulents. Red-colored mites are the most common kind. Infested succulents turn white and silvery and early signs of these pests include spider webbing and small brown spots on the plants.
Whiteflies
These small, white and flying insects are usually found among leafy succulents. They multiply easily and are hard to control. They are usually seen on the underside of leaves and just like aphids, they produce honeydew that promotes mold growth.
Fungus gnats
These insects are not as harmful compared to the other pests, but they can still cause damage to your succulents. They look like mosquitoes and they are easily attracted to constantly moist soil. If your succulents have soil that is always wet these pests will most likely live in the plants and start to breed.
Ants
A few ants may seem harmless for plants, but if you see an army of them, they could cause damage to the succulents. Ants are attracted to succulents because the plants most likely have aphids, scales or mealybugs that secrete sugary substances.
How to get rid of succulent pests?
Here are the steps on how to get rid of succulent pests:
First, examine your succulents.
Check and determine which of the plants are affected. Identify what kind of pests ravaged the plants, whether it was mealybugs, aphids or fungus gnats. It is essential to administer proper care to avoid the spread of damage.
Quarantine the affected succulents.
After you have identified the infected plants, quarantine them to stop the pests from spreading further. It will help you keep a closer eye on the plants so you can give extra care to the ones that are not responding to treatment. If you bought new succulents, separate them in another area before you allow them to be with the other plants.
Next, administer pest control measures.
A great way to keep pests away is to take preventative measures such as spraying systemic insecticide on newly-purchased succulents while they are quarantined. It will protect the plants from damage and you should spray them again upon re-potting.
If your current succulents are affected by pests, spray them with a water mixture with at least 70% alcohol. Be sure to cover all angles and if there are still pests, use a mixture of dish soap and water or insecticidal soap or spray. Once the plants are bug-free for a month it is already safe to return them to the group.
Stay watchful and monitor your plants.
Do not be complacent. Being pest-free does not mean the pests will not come back. Monitor and check your succulents regularly for any signs of pests and bugs and quarantine affected plants at once.
Repeat the steps if there is a re-infestation.
Should you notice the presence of pests again, repeat the steps indicated above. If you find the pests too stubborn and you cannot get rid of them, it may be time to call a pest control professional to handle the problem.
Preventative tips to keep pests away
Here are some preventative tips to keep pests at bay:
Keep your succulents dry, as wet soil attracts pests.
Remove dead leaves so pests won’t have anywhere to breed and hide. It will also reduce mold growth.
Avoid placing dead leaves or reused soil from infected plants in your compost pile.
Use a mild and balanced fertilizer to keep your succulents resistant to pests during the growing season.
Conclusion
Succulents are easy to take care of and not easily bothered by insects. However, succulent pests may attack them and inflict damage. Follow the steps discussed above on how to get rid of these bugs so your plants will grow healthy and pest-free.
Have you noticed white fuzz or yellow and rust-colored spots on your succulents lately? Chances are they might be infected with pests or harmful insects that are not easily detected by the human eye. Plant owners tend to rely on insecticides for succulents to fix the problem. Read on for a closer assessment of the pros and cons of using synthetic insecticides, and for organic alternatives that are safe for your plants and the environment.
Insecticides for succulents: What are they?
These are some of the most common insecticides for succulents:
1. Imidacloprid
This is an effective insecticide, but it should only be used for very extreme situations or when there is a huge infestation. This insecticide tends to cause major harm to bees and bee colonies. The chemical is also found in some Bayer and Merit products. This insecticide comes in small granules that are diluted in water before being sprayed onto plants. The product may not be available in some US states.
2. Acephate
This is usually found in products by Bonide. Just like Imidacloprid, you have to dilute the chemical in small amounts and spray it on the plants. Pour the leftovers on the soil but use the insecticide with great care to limit damage to the environment. This product also may not be available in some US states.
3. Neem oil insecticide
Neem oil is from the Azadirachta indica tree, which is endemic to South Asia and India. It is known for its insecticidal properties. The key ingredient is Azadirachtin; the highest amounts of this are found in the seeds. Neem oil insecticide is applied as a soil drench and causes insects to reduce or cease feeding. It also prevents larvae from maturing; the oil coats the breathing holes of insects and kills them.
4. Insecticides with essential oils
Some systemic pesticides contain essential oils like thyme, cloves, cinnamon, and rosemary. Products that contain these oils include SNS 209 and Ed Rosenthal’s Zero Tolerance. However, some pests are not affected by these insecticides.
Pyrethroid insecticides are also commonly used by pest management professionals. They are a special chemical class of active ingredients found in most modern insecticides. Pyrethrin insecticide, in particular, contains pyrethrum, a compound extracted from chrysanthemum flowers.
Insecticide sprays, such as acephate and dimethoate, are also effective for succulents when they are diluted and sprayed on the plants. These should be applied only as often as the label recommends.
Systemic insecticides and pesticides absorb into the succulents through the roots. When the pests drink the juice, they die, or their hormones are affected so they cannot procreate or multiply. Extreme caution should be used when handling these insecticides to protect other plants, bees, animals, and children from getting into contact with them.
Safe alternatives to eradicate pests from succulents
These are safe alternatives to remove pests from succulents:
1. Beneficial insects
Not all insects are pests that are destructive to succulents. Some insects are beneficial and help ward off harmful pests from your plants. These insects include the following:
2. Ladybugs or lady beetles
They feed on soft-bodied pests and eggs.
3. Spider mite predator
These are an important biological controller for two-spotted spider mites.
4. Mealybug destroyer
They attack all species of mealybugs and also feed on aphids.
5. Fungus gnat predator
These tan-colored mites feed on fungus gnat larvae.
6. Aphid parasite
This tiny parasitic wasp lays eggs inside aphids, causing them to mummify and die.
7. Aphid predator
This gall midge attacks many species of aphids.
8. Diatomaceous earth
Diatomaceous earth (DE) is a naturally occurring sedimentary rock formed from diatoms, or fossilized hard-shelled microalgae. It is typically 80 to 90% silica mixed with iron oxide and alumina, a clay mineral. Once ground, the resulting powder is coarse, hard, absorbent, and microscopically sharp-edged.
DE is popular as an insecticide since it effectively kills ants, aphids, mites, and gnats, which are common pests among succulents. It is considered an economical and safe alternative for pest control. It also helps absorb excess water among potted succulents and can keep the soil dry easily. DE helps bind newly applied fertilizers to the plants and has proven to be beneficial for succulents grown hydroponically.
Other succulent owners attest that spraying the affected areas with rubbing alcohol or soapy water are effective in removing insects. Regular spraying should be done until the insects are totally eradicated.
Succulent growers note that commercial or synthetic insecticides should only be used as a last resort and if there is a heavy infestation. It is ideal to use natural and organic ways first to treat pests before settling for synthetic insecticides that can be harmful to the environment.
Conclusion
Succulents are easy to cultivate and propagate since they are low-maintenance plants. However, they are not immune to invaders; harmful pests put them at great risk. The use of insecticide for succulents is an effective way to wipe out pests, but it is also dangerous since it can harm beneficial insects like ladybugs and bees. It is ideal to utilize organic and safe options first in treating pests and to only use synthetic insecticides as the last resort.
Succulents thrive best in a temperate temperature with the right type of soil. They prefer porous sandy potting soil since it dries faster than other types of soil.
However, in the absence of sandy potting soil, you may be wondering if other soil types are ideal for your plants. In this article, we will find out if cactus soil is a good alternative for succulents.
Can Cactus Soil Be Used For Succulents?
Yes, you can use cactus soil for succulents since cacti are also a type of succulents. What works for cactus when it comes to soil can work for other succulent types, too. Succulents and cacti thrive well in a well-draining and airy growing medium, which is what cactus soil provides.
Good quality cactus soil has air pockets, high-drainage properties, and strong nutrient retention qualities that satisfy the needs of a succulent. Some cactus mixes use ingredients like coco coir, peat moss, coarse sand, pumice, and perlite.
What do succulents need from the soil?
Succulents used to be endemic to the arid lands of the desert. They have developed survival techniques in order to survive harsh desert conditions, such as a lack of water because of low rainfall. In such conditions, there is also a high water evaporation rate due to the hot and sunny weather.
Succulents can develop a lifestyle that tolerates such conditions as insufficient water. Inversely, waterlogged soil is unfamiliar to succulents. They are unable to survive in such a soil type because they are used to small amounts of water. They need soil that is airy and drains fast.
What is cactus soil?
Cactus soil provides a better base for cactus roots than regular soil as it keeps roots and stems from sitting in moisture. Too much moisture can result in root rot. This type of soil is available in most garden centers and nurseries.
This planting mix for cacti has superior drainage and dries quickly after watering. Cacti usually harvest the moisture that they need immediately, so excess water needs to be drained to prevent rot and fungal disease.
Commercial mixes for cactus soil use classic soil elements and add peat to hold moisture. Once the peat dries out, it does not absorb water again and the pot becomes too dry. Homemade cactus soil can be tailor- made for your specific cactus varieties; a certain soil mix is not always right for every cactus variety or growing region.
How can I make cactus soil?
While commercial cactus soil is good quality soil, it is cheaper if you make your own mixture. If you are living in an area with an arid climate, add peat to your potted plants. Just don’t let it dry completely.
The usual mixture would be one part washed sand, one part soil, and one part grit (like pebbles or pot shards). You could also try five parts potting soil, two parts pumice, and one part coir. You can adjust the parts of the mixture depending on the variety of succulent that you have.
What are the components of a good succulent potting soil?
These are the components of a good succulent potting soil:
1. It should be well-draining.
Soil should drain well and quickly. Loose and grainy soil is the ideal substrate for succulents.
2. It should have good aeration.
The roots should have space to breathe and to create a sustainable environment for useful organisms in the soil.
3. It should be non-compacting and breathable soil.
The soil should be non-compacting and not sticky so that moisture won’t be retained for a long period. This helps the plant to be able to breathe.
4. It should contain just the right nutrients.
Excessive nutrients in the soil result in unpleasant and brittle plants, so the soil should contain the right amount of proper nutrients.
How do I make succulent soil at home?
Here are the materials that you need for your DIY succulent soil:
Gardening gloves
Measuring cup
Trowel or shovel
A bucket or plastic bin
Common gardening soil
Perlite or pumice
Coarse sand
Measuring the succulent soil
The ideal mixing ratio of the ingredients is two parts sand, two parts gardening soil, and one part perlite or pumice. The right measurement is essential so that the desired drainage, aeration, and compactness will be achieved. If you convert to cups, it would be three cups sand, three cups soil and 1.5 cups of perlite or pumice.
Pumice or perlite aim to help with aeration and drainage. It is also useful in holding nutrients and moisture together. Using one alone or combining pumice and perlite results in a rich potting mix. The sand’s role is to make the potting mix less compact and to increase the drainage, while the gardening soil is to provide nutrients for the plants.
Mixing the DIY succulent soil
With your gloves on, begin to moisten the garden soil so that the dust won’t come up in the mixing container. Next, add the sand and mix well. Finally, scoop in the perlite or pumice and stir thoroughly until the mixture is evenly combined.
That’s it! You now have your DIY succulent soil, ready to be used for your succulents if you intend to pot or repot them. It is also ideal to set some aside and store it for future use.
Conclusion
Succulents are popular house and garden plants because they are easy to cultivate and add beauty to your patio, gazebo, or living room. They are low maintenance and easy to propagate. If you need to repot them, you can use cactus soil since it is similar to succulent soil. Both types of soil drain well, have good aeration, and provide nutrients that make them ideal for succulents and cacti.
First-time succulent collectors tend to be overzealous with their plants. They tend to fuss with them too much or overwater them. While extra care is not a bad thing, it could be detrimental to your succulents if taken too far. These hardy plants can live with little; overwatering them may actually result in leaves falling off.
Succulent leaves falling off: What are the reasons?
Succulent leaves are falling off for some of the following reasons:
1. It could be due to regular leaf loss.
First-time succulent owners tend to panic if they see leaves falling off their plants. However, if leaves are falling off occasionally near the stem’s bottom, it is not a cause for worry. This may just be part of the regular leaf loss that succulents go through. Leaves tend to fall off when they lose their function and if shaded by higher growth near the crown of the plant.
2. It could be due to heat shock.
Succulents thrive in areas with high temperatures and can tolerate very little moisture. But this does not mean that they are indestructible, especially if they have just been newly planted and are still adjusting to the new environment. Being exposed to direct sunlight for a long period can take a toll on the plants, causing heat shock.
If you notice the leaves turning red or orange and seeming about to fall off, move the plants to a shaded area or provide sun protection, such as netting.
3. It could be due to cold shock.
Succulents are drought-resistant plants which makes them very vulnerable to cold weather or low temperatures. Cold shock is commonly characterized by drooping leaves or leaves that turn black before drooping. If this is the case, move the affected plants to a protected area such as the garage. Also, do not water succulents during cold weather.
Interestingly, there are at least two main varieties of succulents that can tolerate very low temperatures. These are Stonecrop sedums and Sempervivums (hens and chicks). They can even tolerate temperatures as low as -20 degrees Fahrenheit.
4. It may be because they are overwatered.
Most first-time succulent owners tend to fuss a lot with their plants. They tend to spoil them by watering them often during the day. However, this could be detrimental to succulents because of their low moisture tolerance. Overwatering leads to falling leaves because the excess water causes swelling in the cell walls to the point of bursting.
If you notice that the leaves are turning soft, reduce watering and learn proper watering techniques from reputable online sites about succulent care. Do not add more water until the soil becomes entirely dry. This will depend on how much light the affected plant receives and the size of its root system. Make sure that the pot has a drainage hole and that the potting mixis of high drainage variety.
5. It may be underwatered.
Just as succulent leaves tend to fall off if overwatered, they can also suffer the same fate if they are underwatered. Being left unwatered for a few days under the scorching heat of the sun can result in shriveled and wilted leaves that eventually fall off. To save your plants, water them adequately and keep a close eye on them to avoid this predicament.
How often do succulents need watering?
Succulents should be watered only when the soil has completely dried out. These plants vary when it comes to moisture tolerance, so there is no universal watering schedule that works for succulents in every climate. It is safe to say that it depends on the varieties of succulents. Moreover, indoor succulent growers suggest that watering every 14 to 21 days is sufficient to keep the plants alive.
Do succulent leaves grow back after falling off?
No, succulent leaves cannot grow back after falling off. They cannot regrow again from the base or the middle of the plant. A new leaf cannot grow in the place of a leaf that has fallen off.
You can still propagate the leaves that have fallen off as long as they are not too dry or wilted. Place them in a dry place for a couple of days and move them into succulent soil. Wait until you notice pink sprouts. At this time, you can water them with a spray bottle. The success rate of propagating new succulents is higher if you plant more leaves.
Conclusion
Succulents add to the aesthetic beauty of your rooms or patio. They are easy to propagate and care for, but if you spoil them, it can cause their leaves to fall off. The common reasons for succulent leaves falling off include overwatering, regular leaf loss, and underwatering. However, it could also be due to heat or cold shock.
There are certain varieties of succulents that are poisonous to birds, such as the String of Pearls and the Yucca. They can cause symptoms that are so severe that they can be life-threatening. Other succulents, like Haworthia or Jade, are not poisonous to birds.
Can birds eat succulents?
Yes, birds can eat succulents because there are several varieties that are not poisonous when ingested by birds.
Succulents are named because of their ability to absorb and keep water in their bodies, specifically in their bulbs and leaves. This is also why their leaves and bodies look swollen and thick. Their leaves look as though they have a waxy finish because this is another way in which succulents are able to retain moisture.
Some succulents have evolved over time to develop individual defense mechanisms to deter animals from eating or harming them. Some grow spikes, some leave a bad taste when eaten, some have adapted to only grow in places that are away from birds, and many others have unique ways to keep safe and to proliferate.
Other succulents, like the some of the ones we will be discussing, are poisonous when ingested by birds. If you have any of these plants, it is best to keep them away from your pet birds, or to keep them in a greenhouse in case the wild birds living around your house try to eat them.
Which succulents are poisonous to birds?
In this list are some of the most common succulents that are poisonous to birds. To be safe, when you bring home a new succulent, do your research and find out if it is poisonous to birds and other animals.
Zanzibar Gem
This an African plant with glossy leaves that is very low maintenance. Even someone with little experience with plants will be able to keep this one alive. If you have pet birds, maybe leave this plant out of your wishlist. The whole plant is poisonous to them.
Yucca
Yucca can be eaten by humans, and it is even considered a delicacy in some South American nations. Birds, on the other hand, can exhibit symptoms of poisoning after ingestion, including nausea, vomiting, bloating, and diarrhea.
Mother in Law’s Tongue or Snake Plant
This plant also originated from the African continent. It attracts birds despite its swordlike appearance. After a bird ingests it, it will exhibit throat swelling, mouth pain, salivation, and skin rash.
String of Pearls
A plant that originated in southwest Africa and recently became quite popular amongst American plant collectors, the string of pearls grows as a chain of small bulbs. They love the shade and avoid direct sunlight. When ingested by birds, it will cause drooling, lethargy, vomiting, and diarrhea.
Mother of Thousands
This plant has tiny purple flowers and sharp purple jagged stripes along its sides. When ingested by birds, it can cause vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, lethargy, heart rate abnormalities, and even seizures.
Amaryllis
This succulent’s plant and bulb are both poisonous to birds. Unfortunately, their bright colors and star-shaped flowers make them very attractive to birds’ eyes. When eaten by birds, it can cause vomiting, diarrhea, depression, and tremors.
Which succulents are safe for birds?
Fortunately, for people that enjoy taking care of both birds and succulents, there is a middle ground. There are varieties of succulents that pose no threat to your pet birds or the wild birds that live near your house. You do not have to give up one for the other as long as you know which succulents are safe for you to own.
Birds are going to be curious sometimes and take small bites of the plants in your garden. Of course, you can train them to discourage them from this behavior, as their frequent pecking of the plants can cause damage. But you cannot monitor your plants and birds around the clock, so it is better to keep them both safe from each other.
The following are the succulents that are not only low maintenance, but also fine to keep in the same home as your birds.
Zebra Haworthia
This is a fast-growing plant that can be easily propagated. It takes after its namesake because of the white stripes on its long, thin green leaves.
Sedum Burrito
This plant is also called “burro’s tail.” It is a popular Mexican succulent that is very easy to grow and take care of. It will grow in any type of soil you place it in, as long as it has good water drainage. Its silvery-green leaves dangle from its stems, making it such a pleasant plant to keep inside your home.
Tree Houseleeks
This plant’s glossy leaves makes it attractive to both birds and humans alike. They come from the Canary Islands but have been taken to just about every corner of the globe. Their wide leaves are a vibrant green, and they are a breeze to grow.
Christmas Cactus
This cactus got its name because its flowers bloom during the winter. This is not poisonous to birds when eaten.
Aloe Vera
This plant can be used to treat sunburn by breaking off its leaves and putting the gooey sap on your skin. It helps with the pain and the redness by soothing it within 15 minutes. It is quite easy to grow and can be eaten safely by birds and even humans.
Hens and Chicks
This succulent is truly one of a kind. Its leaves are tufted and grow in a rosette pattern. It is easy to propagate and take care of. It is not only pretty to look at, but also safe to keep around the house.
Jade
This plant has thick leaves that store plenty of water. This makes this plant low maintenance: you will not need to water it frequently. This plant is pleasing to the eyes and safe to have around your pet birds.
Conclusion
Yes, there are varieties of succulents that are poisonous to birds when ingested. You have to keep in mind that most of the succulents that are sold as household ornaments come from exotic places from all over the world. These plants have evolved to have spikes or to be poisonous to animals that wish to eat them. Before you own a succulent, be sure you know if it is safe to keep around your own pet birds or near the wild birds that frequently visit your home.
The best way to cultivate any plant, and especially those that come from places with unique climates, is to simulate their environment in your home.
Cacti come from arid desert landscapes where the soil is very dry.
Cactus compost is a combination of components in soil that cacti can thrive in. It works very well in imitating desert soil, giving cacti its ideal living conditions.
Cactus compost is usually a mix of peat moss, soil and grit. Planting your cacti in cactus compost will make it grow better than using regular garden soil.
What kind of soil does a cactus like?
Most cacti species originated from Africa, parts of Europe and both North and South America. Cacti have stems that are great at retaining water and moisture, which is how they are able to survive harsh desert conditions.
The sandy soil typical for deserts plus the dry desert conditions dry out the ground almost immediately after rain. Because of this, cacti never have to sit in water for extended periods of time.
Cactus soil must have good drainage, must not be too compact and must have great air circulation. All three factors need to be present, as too moist soil can lead to root rot, pests and fungal problems.
Root rot attacks the cacti’s water absorption main channel and will spread towards where the water is stored. The plant will eventually shrivel and become weak until it dies.
What is good cactus soil?
Whether the cactus is kept indoors or outdoors, the soil it is planted on will determine the amount of water retained. The most important factor that any cactus potting mix should have is that it drains well. It has to be porous enough for water to seep through quickly giving the soil a chance to dry out completely in a short amount of time.
The best soil for cacti can be considered poor soil for other houseplants, especially those that originated from the jungle. Cactus soil has more inorganic elements compared to regular soil and has only about 25-50% of organic matter.
Inorganic material is important for cactus soil because it is what keeps the soil porous, allows it to drain well, and makes sure that air circulates through the soil. The most widely used inorganic components for cactus soil are perlite and pumice. You can also use gravel or grit.
Organic material is also added to cactus soil because it helps the cactus absorb and hold more water and nutrients. Examples of widely used organic components or cactus soil are mulch, coir, and peat.
Can I use regular garden soil for cacti?
Regular garden soil can have too much organic matter and may retain too much water for cacti. They also have too much added nutrients, some of which cacti may not agree with. You can use regular garden soil but you have to mix it together with an inorganic material like perlite or pumice for better drainage and less water retention in the soil.
What is cactus compost?
Cactus compost is a mix of both organic and inorganic materials to form a soil that is most ideal for cacti to grow on. It has superior drainage and tends to dry out quicker than normal garden soil. The cacti will quickly absorb the water it can sustain and the excess water has to dry out or drain to prevent root rot and fungal problems.
You can buy commercially sold cactus soil mixes, but once the peat has dried out, the soil may have a difficult time reabsorbing water. You may be better off customizing your own cactus compost so you can design the mixture specifically for the type of cactus you will be planting.
How can I make cactus compost?
Gather the following components to mix your own cactus compost:
1. Regular garden soil
Any kind of garden soil you have on hand is fine to use. It will work especially well if your soil is light and porous. This will be the base of your cactus compost. Heavy garden soil usually means that it will retain a lot of moisture so steer clear of that for your cacti. Keep in mind, we need well-draining soil.
2. Sand
Cacti come from the desert where sand is abundant, so it makes sense for there to be sand in cactus compost. Adding this to soil will make it porous. You can use any sand, but coarse sand is ideal. Do not use beach or sandbox sand because those are too fine. You can use turface or poultry grit as an alternative.
3. Pumice or perlite
Perlite is an organic soil additive that is lightweight and resembles styrofoam. It helps with keeping the soil from getting compacted and to promote plant aeration. It also helps with the water drainage. Pumice does pretty much the same thing.
4. Peat
The pH level of soil can affect the plant in it. One way to lower the pH of your soil is to add a little peat to the mixture.
5. Lava rocks/ gravel
When added to the cactus compost recipe, they will help keep the soil airy and loose.
Before you start combing the components, gather a measuring cup, a bucket, a trowel and gardening gloves.
Take three parts regular soil, three parts sand, turface, grit, or gravel and two parts perlite or pumice.
Once you have all the components measured, you can move on to the next stage, which is mixing it all together.
Moisten the garden soil first so dust does not rise up while you are mixing. Start adding in the sand and mix well. Using your hands will loosen clumps and combine them better.
Take the perlite or pumice and add to the mixture. Mix well.
If you have a pH measuring meter, test a small sample of the soil. If the pH is below or beyond the normal values, add a small amount of peat. Stir the mixture well before measuring the pH again.
Conclusion
Making your own cactus compost is better for your cacti and can also save you a lot of money. You can customize and personalize the soil for the kind of cactus you wish to plant. The most important factor to keep in mind when creating cactus compost is that it has to be well-draining, and properly aerated.
Succulents need to be planted on soil that drains well as they do not do particularly well in regular soil. Creating a mix of compost, sand and perlite will emulate a succulent’s natural arid environment where water is scarce. This growing medium is porous and will allow excess water to drain away from the roots of your plants.
The guaranteed success of a succulent’s growth starts with its soil. In this article we will learn more about how to make your own succulent compost.
What kind of soil do succulents like?
Succulents are not like most plants that originate from relatively moist areas. Most plants love moist, nutrient rich soil. Succulents, on the other hand, prefer well-drained soil. Putting them in rich soil, with manure or other organic material that holds moisture well is a quick way to kill your succulents.
The best potting soil for succulents is a potting mix composed of porous soil in order to avoid overwatering. There may be conflicting information regarding the type of soil to use for succulents, but the one constant is that drainage is key. Succulents have the ability to withstand drought but wet soil will cause them to rot.
Soil’s mineral layers are categorized based on texture types. Based on grit size, the three types are clay, silt and sand. The amount of time it takes each type to dry is based on their proportions which in turn affects the amount of water it can hold. Sandy soil holds less moisture and dries out faster than clay soil, making it better for succulents.
Mineral vs organic
In the context of soil, organic means that it came from anything that was alive at one point, while mineral is any natural, inorganic substance that was not derived from a living organism.
Plant debris and tree bark are examples of organic components, while gravel is mineral. The organic components help with nourishment, while the mineral components help with the drainage.
Getting the perfect ratio between organic and mineral components is important for it to properly support the succulent’s growth and to help avoid root rot. This can also allow you to water your succulents heavily but infrequently.
There are plenty of mineral and organic components you can mix and match depending on the plant you are using them for. Potting soil, compost, coconut coir and pine bark are great choices for organic ingredients, while chicken grit, gravel, volcanic rock, perlite and coarse sand are fine mineral choices.
Try not to use non-calcined clay or vermiculite because they tend to store water.
Can I use garden soil for my succulents?
Vegetable garden soil has a lot of additional organic matter and is not suitable for succulents. Garden soil is ideal for most plants that want moisture retention. Garden soil is far too rich for a succulent that prefers lean soil with little to no organic matter or excess nutrients. The richness and the moisture retention will cause root rot and kill your succulent.
Can I make my own succulent compost?
Yes, making your own succulent compost is very easy, economical and you can control the amount of each ingredient you add. You can modify the recipe until you get the perfect succulent compost for your plants.
If you have a large bucket or tub, get one ready because you will need a lot of space to be able to mix the succulent compost properly.
Mix together:
1 part compost – using a multi-purpose compost with an open texture is ideal
1 part horticultural grit – this is made from crushed rock, specifically granite or limestone
1 part sand – building sand is perfectly fine and very cheap
Place all of the ingredients in your bucket or tub and give it a good stir, sifting it through your hands and fingers to make sure the distribution of each component is even. Remove any clumps until everything looks properly mixed together.
Keep in mind that these materials, when mixed together, will be a lot heavier than normal compost, especially after watering, so make sure you take that into account when choosing the pot before planting your succulent.
Scoop your freshly-made succulent compost into garden sacks for storage. Now you have proper succulent compost you can use anytime.
Soil for outdoor succulents
Succulents that are planted in the ground are often not as finicky about the soil compared to those planted in containers. Of course, outdoor succulents still need a sandy soil with grit and compost, but the conditions in the outdoors means you can have healthy succulents even with less than adequately draining soil.
This is because outdoor plants have more soil, have ample sunlight and have more airflow than indoor plants.
You can improve drainage for outdoor plants by mounding it into berns or placing it on raised beds. Sloping topography exposes more soil to the sun and uses gravity to contribute to the draining of water.
Conclusion
Succulents will not thrive in normal garden soil because it is too rich with organic matter and retains too much water. Succulents require nutrients but not too much and what is most important is proper drainage to keep the succulent from getting overwatered which often results in root rot.
A mixture of one part compost, one part horticultural grit and one part sand will do wonders in helping your potted succulents flourish. This mixture simulates the natural arid environment of these plants, which is the best way to cultivate them.
If you notice your succulents starting to look as though they have been sprinkled with flour, they might have powdery mildew.
Powdery mildew is one of the most common succulent problems. It is a fungal disease that coats the stems and leaves of plants and succulents with a white or grayish-white powdery substance. When the case of powdery mildew becomes too severe, it can spread to the bugs and flowers.
In this article, we will discuss what exactly causes powdery mildew and how to properly remove it from your succulents.
What is powdery mildew?
Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that affects a lot of different plants, including succulents. It can be caused by many different species of fungi, with different species attacking different plants.
Other than succulents, powdery mildew can affect legumes such as peas and beans, nightshades such as roses, peppers, eggplants, and tomatoes and cucurbits such as melons, cucumbers, pumpkins and squash.
When your succulent gets taken over by the fungus, the spores of the powdery mildew will form a layer on top of the leaves.
Unfortunately, it is quite easy to infect other nearby plants, because if the spores get blown by the wind, they can be carried over to your other plants.
The most important step in removing and preventing powdery mildew is to learn how to identify it. Being able to catch it in its early stages will help you treat it and make sure your succulent is minimally affected.
Powdery mildew will first present itself on your succulent as powdery white, circular spots on the leaves and stems. Over time the spots will spread across the upper side of the leaves, slowly making their way to the bottom of the leaves. Before long, your entire succulent will look as though it was dusted with flour.
The youngest leaves or foliage are the quickest to be affected by the powdery mildew. The longer the fungus is left alone, the more the leaves become disfigured, twisted, and even broken.
How does powdery mildew spread from plant to plant?
As mentioned above, powdery mildew is transferred from one plant to another through the air. The spores that were on an infected succulent can drift in the air, across your garden, and onto your other plants.
In some cases, you might think you no longer have powdery mildew on any of your plants, but unbeknownst to you, dormant spores can cause new outbreaks.
Powdery mildew flourishes in warmer climates and will thrive and spread quickly in dry areas with temperatures that range from 60 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. In colder and wetter areas, the spores are not able to spread as efficiently.
The fungus also prefers to infect plants that have more shade, compared to those that are out in the sun, because temperatures higher than 90 degrees Fahrenheit can slow the spread too.
How to control powdery mildew
You can use protectant fungicides on your succulents. Examples of protectant fungicides are potassium bicarbonate, neem oil, lime-sulfur and sulfur. These types of fungicides will work best if sprayed on your succulents in the early stages of the infection or as a strict preventative fungicide.
If you are apprehensive about using chemicals in removing powdery mildew, you can give baking soda a try. When you mix baking soda with a non-detergent liquid soap and water, it becomes an effective preventative fungicide. Spray it on your affected succulents or on your unaffected succulents once a week to reduce the incidence of powdery mildew.
Making sure your plants are spaced apart properly can also help prevent powdery mildew from spreading.
To make the solution, mix together one gallon of water, half a teaspoon of non-detergent liquid soap, and one tablespoon of baking soda. Transfer the mixture into a spray bottle and spray your succulents enough to coat all of its outside surface areas with the solution. Do not forget to spray the bottom of the leaves.
Be sure to discard any leftover mixture. Despite being effective, the solution can be quite strong and burn your leaves. Make sure the plants are watered well days prior to spraying the solution and do not apply the solution while the sun is under direct sunlight.
If your succulent has become far too infected, it may be too late to rid it of the fungus. You will be better off discarding infected plants as well as their leaves, stems, and fruit. Make sure you throw them away properly as these spores can stay dormant for some time. Do not place the infected plants in your compost.
How do I prevent powdery mildew from infecting and spreading amongst my succulents?
When choosing new succulents, choose those that are resistant and less tolerant of powdery mildew.
Do not overwater your succulents to reduce the humidity.
Prune your plants that are overcrowded to promote better air circulation. Better air circulation means less possibility of infection.
Make sure you clean and sanitize your pruning tools after each use.
Remember to remove any affected foliage and to dispose of them properly.
Spray your plants with preventative fungicides.
Ideally, water your plants in the early morning, so it has a chance to dry throughout the day.
Do not put your susceptible plants in shaded areas and place them in a place where they can get direct sunlight.
Make sure the soil is able to drain excess water properly because the fungus loves humidity.
Conclusion
The white powdery stuff on succulents is called powdery mildew and is caused by different kinds of fungi, depending on the plant it is infecting. This plant fungal disease manifests itself as white spots on your succulent’s leaves first before it spreads its ways all over all the leaves, stems, and flowers.
Starting a succulent collection is a good stress reliever and first-time succulent growers derive great joy from it. Countless varieties can be purchased online and shipped to any state or country. However, succulent enthusiasts are wondering if it is safe and viable to ship succulents. In this article, get to know vital information on how to pack and ship succulents properly.
How to ship succulents?
Succulents are shipped using two ways, either as bare root which is without a container or placed inside a container. While these plants can survive long journeys without water it is ideal to pack them carefully. Proper coordination with the destination agricultural department should be made to verify if shipping of succulents is allowed to a specific country.
Shipping succulents through the bare root or no-container method
These are the advantages of shipping succulents “bare root” or without a container:
Lower postage rates.
The parcel is lightweight and this means that there will be lower postage rates. Also, it is cheaper to ship the plants since the weight of the pot and soil are not included.
It prevents rotting.
The plants won’t rot because there is no soil, which tends to be the culprit if succulents rot during a long journey. The absence of air circulation and the dark environment also lead to fungi and bacteria growth which could accelerate the damage.
It prevents soil spillage.
Potted succulents could lead to soil spillage due to constant motion while in transit.
It prevents etiolation.
With soil plants can still grow. In an environment of partial or no light(such as a shipping container, transit vehicle, etc), it is called etiolation, which could lead to the formation of weak leaves and stems during the long journey.
Avoid watering the succulents before shipping and pull them out of their soil gently. Be sure to shake off any excess soil. Leave the plants out for at least two days to dry out the roots, especially if they are too moist. You may also trim some of the roots if they are too bushy or cramped together.
Shipping succulents in containers
Another way to ship succulents is by putting them in small containers. Do not water the plants for four to five days before shipping. It will prevent rotting since the soil’s moisture content will increase after packing due to lack of air circulation. This will prevent the drying out of the soil and may cause fungal growth.
It is better to use plastic containers instead of clay pots since the latter are prone to breakage during the journey.
Shipping procedures for succulents
Wrapping the succulents
If you are shipping succulents either with the bare root or container method, you should wrap them with tissue paper or paper. You may layer the paper thickly since it offers extra protection. Spiky succulents should be packed in many layers of paper to avoid damaging other plants. Do not cover the top part of succulents with plastic wrap as it could retain moisture and may cause rotting.
Wrap succulents separately. If they are in containers, use plastic to cover the soil in the container to prevent soil spillage. For bare-root succulents, some peat or moss may come in handy to retain some moisture.
Labeling the succulents
Properly label each of the succulents after wrapping them. Mark fragile succulents with the word “fragile” so the courier’s staff are well-aware of the contents of your package. Succulents with spikes should be labeled with the word “warning”.
Boxing the succulents
If you have already wrapped and labeled the plants, it is ready to be boxed. Use a durable and corrugated cardboard box for the succulents. Place the plants carefully inside the box and layer it with more newspapers and bubble wrap.
Fill any spaces in between the plants with newspapers to avoid the plants moving during handling. Use bubble wrap to reduce mishandling damages. Keep a list of the plants inside the package and mark the box with the word “perishable” or “fragile”. Secure the box with tape and apply it on all sides to ensure that it does not open up during the journey.
Things to keep in mind when shipping succulents to other states or countries
Succulents cannot survive in areas with low temperatures and frost can kill them. They thrive well in areas with high temperatures. If the temperature of the plants’ destination is expected to drop below zero, it is wise to postpone shipping for the time being. Heat packs are ideal if you are shipping succulents to low-temperature areas as they keep the plants warm for up to a maximum of 72 hours.
If you are shipping cacti, pack them in extra paper and make sure that the spines do not damage the packing materials and the other plants. Indicate that the package contains cacti by putting the word “cacti inside” to alert the handlers and receiver so they know to be extra careful.
Things not to do when shipping succulents
Do not dampen the succulents if shipping them to an area with warm weather, as it could lead to rotting.
Do not pack the plants in plastic wrappers as it could lead to rotting.
Do not forget to secure the soil of plants that are in containers.
Do not wrap all the succulents in one paper.
What to do when you receive a package of succulents?
If you received a package of succulents, carefully unpack the package and water the contents. Do not place it in direct sunlight as sudden exposure to it could cause plant stress and may lead to death or leaf loss. If the plants are in bare root, place them in a good succulent mix or cactus pot soil. Water them properly to freshen them, keep them in a shade for a few days and eventually acclimate them to light.
Conclusion
Succulents may be considered tough or hardy plants, but they should be handled with care when shipped to another state or country. These plants can be shipped either in bare root or containers. Proper wrapping and boxing procedures should be observed as discussed above. Most importantly, the temperature of its destination should be anticipated in advance to ensure that the plants arrive in good shape.
If you are a first-time succulent owner, you may be wondering how to propagate your plants and add more to your collection. Succulents reproduce in specific ways.
Most of them multiply through division, while for some cacti, small ‘baby’ plants tend to appear on the edges of the leaves. Keep reading for more interesting details on succulent reproduction methods.
How do succulents reproduce?
These are the various ways or methods that succulents reproduce:
With cuttings
This method is applicable for succulents with well-developed and tall stems. For a higher survival rate using this method, see to it that you have a well-sharpened blade when cutting the stems. Also, make sure that the stems are actively growing and the roots are visible outside. Cut the young stems with roots carefully.
After you have cut the stems, allow them to develop some callus before planting. The callus is where the end of the plant dries and hardens a bit. This takes about three to 15 days and this is a critical process to prevent baby plants from having fungal infections.
Once the callus develops you can place your cuttings in a shallow pot. Bury only the callused part of the cuttings and place it in an area with some sunlight. You can water it regularly by spraying the rooty areas. However, do not overwater as it could harm the succulents during the propagating process.
By leafing
This method involves the removal and replanting of succulent leaves. It is popular among succulent lovers who own pulpy succulents. Just like the previous one, this method requires careful cutting techniques. To propagate, see to it that you cut the part where the leaves and the stem meet using a sharpened blade.
Once you have cut the part, place it in a shallow and soiled container. Put it in an area with a minimum amount of sunlight and spray with water regularly to keep it moist.
After about three weeks a callus will develop and the mother leaf’s core will wilt and fall. The buddings will be visible and it is an indicator that the plant is ready to be planted in its permanent planter.
Through stem cuttings
This particular method works best with rosette-shaped succulents and other plants with long branches. Choose shorter stems to cut; the small size indicates they are actively growing and it means they have a higher chance of surviving. Callusing takes up to four days and you must ensure that the branch where it was cut from should remain planted and allowed to heal itself.
By using seeds
The seeds, which usually have an orange color, can also be used to propagate succulents. They should be rinsed with warm water to get rid of the coating and planted in a prepared pot and soil should only partly cover it. Gently water the seeds with a spray bottle from time to time since they need careful treatment.
While said methods work for most succulents it is not applicable for offsets like hens and chicks succulents. Leafing and direct cutting are not applicable since offsets have parts that are strongly connected and the common way is by propagating through water. After letting it produce callus, they should be placed in water in a jar instead of in soil.
The cuttings should not be fully soaked since the part where the cutting took place should only be dipped. The roots will sprout overnight and can be planted once they are fully developed.
How to cross-breed succulents?
These are the steps on how to successfully cross-breed succulents:
First, pull a flower off of the main plant.
Remove the flower petals to expose the pollen-covered anther. Leave it since it is filled with pollen and pull off the stamen.
Next, rub the freshly-removed pollen into the flower of the plant you intend to cross-pollinate it with.
Close the receptor flower’s petals with tape if the succulent is growing outside to prevent cross-pollination by insects. However, if the succulent is placed indoors the insects cannot access it then there is no need to tape the flower closed. Mark the flower you pollinated by writing on the tag. If pollination is successful, the flower’s base will swell in a few weeks to months, but this will depend on the succulent.
Finally, collect the seeds once the cross-pollination is done then proceed with the planting process.
Succulents reproduce asexually and this means individual reproduction or reproducing without sex. It is a sole reproduction without gene contributions by another ‘parent’ plant. Asexual reproduction in succulents is in the form of offsets or young ones produced by succulents. A good example of a succulent that reproduces through offsets is the hens and chick plant.
Problems concerning the propagation and breeding of succulents
These are the probable problems concerning the propagation and breeding of succulents:
During the cross-pollination process, newly-produced succulents may become weaker than the original variety instead of creating a hybrid variety.
Sterile succulents are not capable of cross-breeding and the only way to breed them is through stem and leaf-cutting methods.
The pollen of two plants may not bloom at the same time and the only way to breed succulents is to control the environment.
Not all succulents are a perfect match so you have to be mindful of proper cross-breeding procedures.
Conclusion
Succulents are popular home and office plants and they are easy to propagate. They reproduce through methods like leafing, stem cutting and by using the seeds. These low-maintenance beauties can also reproduce through cross-breeding and require two kinds of succulents through separation and division of plant parts.
Take your succulents to a whole new level by enhancing the visual presentation with potting pebbles. These pebbles make the plants stand out and also add to their aesthetic value.
What are natural decorative potting pebbles?
Natural decorative potting pebbles are perfect for flower arrangements and succulent containers. These pebbles have no toxic chemicals added which make them safe choices for plants and the environment. They also come in natural shapes and colors that enhance the aesthetic features of your succulents.
Do not use moss as a top dressing for your succulents. It traps moisture and encourages fungi or bacteria growth, whereas potting pebbles are perfect for your plants. Be sure to avoid non-porous rocks like river rocks, pea gravel, fish rock, sand and glass marbles. Other ideal top dressings aside from potting pebbles include pumice, shale and surface.
Benefits of potting pebbles for succulents
1. They provide drainage.
Potting pebbles help achieve a fast-draining soil for succulents. Mixing succulent soil with potting pebbles allows the soil to have a water exit point so that excess water drains easily and will leave nothing but the necessary moisture. Succulents may develop growth problems like dark spots on leaves and stems if excess water stays at the bottom of the pot.
2. They serve as a root anchor.
Most plants establish stability with soil, but the roots of succulents become more stable and rigid when they are anchored on pebbles. Succulents grow naturally and healthily when they have pebbles to hold on to and also provide strength.
3. They provide aesthetic value.
Succulents look more enticing with the added beauty of the potting pebbles. However, be sure to pick pebbles in a color that will compliment the color of your succulents. Also, consider the size and shape of the potting pebbles with the plants to maximize the aesthetic effects.
How to prepare potting pebbles
First, clean the pebbles thoroughly.
See to it that the potting pebbles are clean before putting them in the pots. Soak them in water for a few hours to soften the soil and kill any elements that stick to the pebbles. It is important to do this if you reuse pebbles from another pot. Mix some liquid soap with the water, wash the pebbles thoroughly and rinse with clean water.
Pour the pebbles into the pot.
Once the pebbles are cleaned, you can place them in the pot and pour them about an inch thick. This will help with the drainage system of the soil mix. If your pot has drainage holes, consider the size of the pebbles. You may need a mesh over the holes if the pebbles are smaller to prevent them from slipping through the holes.
Fill the rest of the pot with a fast-draining soil mix and plant the succulents in the soil. Add another layer of pebbles around the succulents for that final touch. Make sure that the soil still has plenty of air so it can breathe and do not put in too many pebbles.
Common brands of potting pebbles for succulents
Small River Pebbles
This brand provides all-natural and non-toxic potting pebbles for succulents and other potted plants. The pebbles are pre-rinsed so they are safe to use. They come in vibrant colors that add aesthetic value and are ideal for indoor and outdoor gardens.
Mexican Beach Pebbles
These natural potting pebbles are from Baja, California, and are commonly used for landscaping projects because of their perfect size and color.
Other must-try natural decorative potting pebbles for succulents:
Taking care of succulents provides stress relief and adds beauty to homes and gardens. These plants are easy to care for and can withstand high temperatures since they can store water in their leaves and stems. Potting pebbles add aesthetic value to succulents and allow them to stand out. These pebbles also provide drainage and root anchor so the plants will grow naturally and healthily.
Have you noticed some white fuzz on your succulents lately? It may look harmless, but it could mean a pest infestation or a fungal disease.
Succulents are known to be hardy plants but like most plants, they can be attacked by pests and diseases. Let us get to know what causes white spots on succulents and ways to treat them.
White fuzz on succulents: What are the most probable causes?
1. It could be due to mealybugs.
Mealybugs are common pests that tend to infest succulents. These tiny bugs usually thrive on indoor plants since they favor moderate temperatures. They look like a white cottony substance and they are found among the new growth on your succulents, usually at the base of the leaves or on the stem.
They are hard to detect and shortly the leaves are already deformed and misshapen.
The probable causes for the presence of mealybugs include overwatering and excessive use of certain fertilizers. These pests spread quickly and it is ideal to eradicate them at the earliest signs to avoid any widespread damage. Not acting promptly may not just kill your succulent but the infestation may also spread to other plants.
Treatment options:
These are the treatment options for mealybugs:
By using plant insecticides.
The use of plant insecticides is a common treatment option for pests. However, it is a good idea to settle for organic ones like neem oil. Chemical insecticides are effective but they can also harm beneficial bugs and some states restrict their use. If you choose to use them, make sure that the insecticide is compatible with your succulents as it may just inflict damage.
By using isopropyl alcohol.
Isopropyl alcohol is a cheaper option than insecticide but equally effective. Simply spray 70% isopropyl alcohol on the mealybugs and cover all angles to make sure that you are spraying all areas of the plants. The bugs die on contact and you will notice that the white substance will fade almost instantly. Wait for a few minutes once done and wash the dead mealybugs away with water.
Repeat the treatment process after a few days if you notice that there are still a few bugs. However, if you notice any burns on the leaves, opt for 50% rather than 70% of alcohol content.
By using ladybirds.
Ladybirds or ladybugs are natural predators of mealybugs and placing these bug warriors on your affected succulents is a big help. They are experts at hunting mealybugs and they will easily finish them off in no time at all.
How to prevent a mealybug infestation?
Here are some tips on how to prevent a mealybug infestation:
Be sure to water your succulents moderately and do not overwater them.
Inspect your plants regularly.
Quarantine infected plants.
Do not over-fertilize as it may create an ideal environment for pests instead of keeping your plants healthy.
2. It could be due to the epicuticular wax.
Some succulents may develop a white powdery film, some plants that were once vibrant become soft, pale and pastel-colored. This is all due to the development of epicuticular wax or Farina, an even dusting of powder. This thin layer of silvery film is often seen on plums, grapes and other plants.
To be sure if the white fuzz on succulents is epicuticular wax, try to examine the uniformity and if you notice an even coating it is probably farina. It is evenly distributed on the plant, but the thickness may vary depending on the species. The wax is a protective covering for plants and hydrophobic, making the water bead up to prevent too much moisture from entering the plants.
Farina helps the plants to stay moisturized and also serves as sunscreen to prevent plants from becoming sunburned. It also protects plants from pathogens, insects and other extreme conditions. Do not wipe off the wax from succulents as it has many benefits for them.
3. It could be due to powdery mildew.
The white fuzz on succulents may also be due to powdery mildew, a type of fungal disease. It is usually characterized by white powdery mold on the leaves. It is usually white but it could also become yellowish, brown or black-colored growths. This fungus grows in warm and dry places, which makes succulents more prone to it.
Powdery mildew does not spread on the entire plant and it is patchier compared to farina. It is fuzzy and tends to spread from one leaf to another. It does not look harmful at first but it is capable of taking away the nutrients of succulents until they wither. The leaves fall and succulents may even die.
This fungal disease is contagious and it is ideal to separate infected plants to avoid any further damage. Gently remove the infected leaves, and you could also use a fungicide to kill the fungus and stop the spread of infection.
4. It could be due to whiteflies.
These white, flying insects are usually found in leafy succulents. They multiply rapidly and the larvae are also white but the eggs are yellowish that turn brown when they are about to hatch. These insects do not produce evenly distributed powdery substances. They suck the nutrients and produce honeydew that causes mold growth.
Whiteflies usually stay under the leaves rather than on the surface and occupy hard to reach places. If your plants are infested, they become deformed and eventually wither if not treated promptly.
Conclusion
White fuzz on succulents could be indicative of several reasons. It could be due to a mealybug infestation in your succulents. It may also be due to epicuticular wax which has many benefits for plants or powdery mildew, a highly contagious fungal disease.
Emphasis. Balance. Scale. If you are looking for outdoor plants that will help you achieve a well-rounded look to your garden, you might want to consider adding one or more of these large succulents for landscaping.
1. Century Plant
Image: istockphoto.com / Supersmario
The Century Plant (Agave americana) originates from Mexico and the southern parts of the United States. Also known as the Sentry Plant, Maguey, and American Aloe, this succulent can grow up to six feet and spread to a width of up to 10 feet.
The plant’s spiny blue-green leaves arch down as the plant matures. At around 10 years of age, the Century Plant produces a flower stalk that can reach a length of 15 feet. The flowers of this plant have a greenish-yellow color.
This agave is best planted in sandy or gravelly soil that is slightly acidic. Although it prefers full sun, the plant can tolerate partial shade, unlike other agaves.
The plant is an excellent addition to different types of gardens and works well as an accent plant or part of hedges. It is virtually pest and disease resistant and can attract birds. The plant is also deer resistant.
Avoid planting this agave in areas with heavy foot traffic like walkways and paths as its leaf tips can trip people.
2. Dinosaur Back Plant
Image: istockphoto.com / Sara Friesz
If you are looking for an accent plant for your landscape, the Dinosaur Back Plant (Myrtillocactus geometrizans forma cristata) should be on top of your list. This interesting-looking cactus has several columnar branches and stems that grow densely together.
The cactus can reach a height of close to 15 feet while its crown can reach a width of 16 feet. Because of its big size, the plant should be placed in a location or container which will give its roots ample space to spread out. It should be moved to a bigger pot every other year.
Despite its ornate appearance, the cactus is easy to care for. The Dinosaur Back Plant can tolerate the full sun and needs a moderate amount of water. It is semi-hardy which means it cannot survive sub-zero temperatures.
3. Fire and Ice Echeveria
The Fire and Ice Echeveria (Echeveria subrigida ‘Fire and Ice’), also known as the Red Edge Echeveria, looks stunning, especially during the summer. The plant grows up to nine inches but its rosettes can spread up to 18 inches.
The most interesting part of this succulent is its leaves. The main body of the leaves is spade-shaped and has a blue-green color. The leaves have a smooth and pink or rose-colored margin.
The succulent should be planted in a soil that has about 50 to 70 percent mineral content, preferably perlite, coarse sand, or pumice. Avoid watering this plant from above to prevent excess moisture from sitting on the leaves. From time to time, check for dead bottom leaves which mealybugs like to inhabit.
4. Tree Aloe
Image: istockphoto.com / Cheryl Ramalho
The Tree Aloe (Aloidendron barberae) originates from South Africa and is recognized as the largest aloe in the continent. This tree-like succulent is often used as a landscape centerpiece because of its height. The plant can easily reach a height of 30 feet and a width of up to 20 feet.
This plant is a fast-growing succulent. You can expect it to grow anywhere between four to 12 inches annually.
The Tree Aloe prefers the full sun but can tolerate partial shade. It can withstand drought but it should be watered once a week during the hotter months. Make sure to protect yourself when handling this plant as its sap is known to be a skin irritant.
5. Spineless Yucca
Image: istockphoto.com / maljalen
Yuccas are fairly popular as indoor plants. But one yucca variety that you should strongly consider planting outdoors is the Spineless Yucca (Yucca elephantipes). Among the yuccas, the Spineless Yucca is considered to be the tallest, capable of reaching a height of four feet.
This succulent is characterized by its smooth and spineless evergreen leaves as well as its thick trunk with a sparse branch.
The plant is rabbit and deer resistant and is immune to most pests and diseases, except for leaf spots and aphids. The Spineless Yucca should be planted in sandy soil and prefers the full sun.
6. Madagascar Ocotillo
Image: istockphoto.com / Linjerry
The Madagascar Ocotillo (Alluaudia procera) is an odd, off-kilter choice for landscaping. But that is part and parcel of this succulent’s appeal, ideal for people looking for a landscape conversation piece. The Madagascar Ocotillo originates from Toliara, Madagascar, and can grow as high as 60 feet.
The stems of young plants tangle with one another for several years. Eventually, these stems die out when a central stem develops. The central stem then sends out upward branches.
The succulent requires full sun along with well-draining soil and ample airflow. It can tolerate temperatures up to zero degrees Celsius.
During winter, the plant drops its leaves. At this point, you should avoid watering it. In Madagascar, the plant is cultivated both as a fuel source and construction material.
7. Mountain Aloe
Image: istockphoto.com / Mantonature
Named after South African botanist Rudolf Marloth, the Mountain Aloe (Aloe marlothii) grows up to 20 feet. The dense grayish-green rosettes form on a single stem. Reddish spines line up on the edges of the leaves as well as various parts of the plant. When the leaves die, they form a petticoat around the plant’s stems.
The aloe blooms flowers between May and September. A single plant produces 30 racemes which hold the orange-yellow to red flowers.
The Mountain Aloe is an excellent addition to rock and succulent gardens. It is deer resistant and hardy enough to resist most diseases and pests, except for mealybugs and scale.
8. Desert Spoon
Image: istockphoto.com / Leo Malsam
The Desert Spoon (Dasylirion wheeleri) got its moniker from its short trunk which has the same shape as the utensil it is named after. This succulent can grow up to five feet in height. During summer, the trunk sends out a flowering stalk that can grow up to 15 feet in height. A single specimen of Desert Spoon can produce thousands of flowers that attract bees and hummingbirds.
Hundreds of blue-green leaves form a symmetrical rosette around the main trunk and have teeth along their margins.
Typically used as an accent plant, the Desert Spoon thrives under the full sun. It is resistant to both rabbits and deer but is susceptible to scale.
In Mexico, the plant is cultivated to make the alcoholic drink known as sotol. It is also used both for food and fiber.
9. African Candelabra Tree
Image: istockphoto.com / Farknot_Architect
The African Candelabra Tree (Euphorbia ingens) is often mistaken for the Euphorbia candelabrum due to their similar features. This cactus grows into a tree with a height of up to 26 feet. The plant’s leaves are said to be rudimentary and ephemeral. This means that these leaves do not last for a long time and do not perform any useful function. The African Candelabra relies on its stems for photosynthesis.
Once the plant matures and becomes fully-established, it no longer needs much care. It requires the full sun and prefers warm temperatures. It cannot survive temperatures below zero degrees Celsius.
Be careful when handling this cactus. Its sap is a known skin and eye irritant. In some African countries, the plant is used as a treatment for ulcers and some forms of cancer.
10. Bitter Aloe
Image: istockphoto.com / Winston Fowler
Originating from southern Africa, the Bitter Aloe (Aloe ferox) has long been cultivated, not only as an ornamental plant. This succulent is an invaluable plant cultivated for its medicinal properties. The gel extracted from the leaves is used in the production of supplements, cosmetics, and herbal products. Like its cousin, the Aloe vera, the Bitter Aloe can also be used for treating skin irritation.
On the other hand, its resin is collected to be used as a laxative and a treatment for arthritis.
Mature specimens can reach a height of 10 feet. The succulent’s leaves are fleshy and arrange themselves into rosettes. The leaves of young plants have spines that serve to protect them from grazing animals. As the plant grows older, it loses those spines.
11. Madagascar Dragon Tree
Image: istockphoto.com / lizfernandezg
The Madagascar Dragon Tree (Dracaena Marginata) is a relative of the Dragon Blood Tree (Dracaena draco). One notable difference between these two plants is that when you cut the Dragon Blood Tree, a blood-like resin will ooze from the cut.
The Madagascar Dragon Tree is one of the more popular houseplants in the world because it is one of the toughest plants to kill. It can survive a couple of weeks without water and can easily bounce back from that almost immediately.
Although the succulent grows up to a height of 8 feet, it is a slow grower. It can take up to 10 years for a specimen to reach a height of 5 feet.
Compared to other Dracaena, the Madagascar Dragon Tree has slimmer leaves which arch. The leaves can vary in color, depending on the variety. The plant produces leaves after the main trunk produces stems or canes. These canes should be trained to ensure that they grow upward.
Caring for your succulents
Succulents have become popular among gardeners for a variety of reasons, ranging from exotic looks to ease of care and maintenance. If you are adding a few of these plants to your landscape, here are a few important things to keep in mind.
Water more during summer
Although most succulents are drought-tolerant, it is a good idea to water your plants more frequently during summer. This advice is particularly true if you live in an area that receives little rainfall.
As a rule of thumb, you should water succulents planted on the ground once a week. Container plants can be watered three times a week. Water your plants only when the soil is dry.
Water less during winter
As the cooler seasons set in, you should reduce the amount of water you give your succulents. Around fall, begin to reduce the watering frequency to help your plants withstand the drop in temperature.
Do your research
If you are planning on planting succulents directly on the ground, you should carefully study which succulent varieties are suitable for the area where you live. The USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map is the best starting point for your research.
Alternatively, you can consult experts in your area. Offline, you can go to botanical gardens and nurseries to seek recommendations. Online, you can join forums and social media groups for more ideas.
A welcome addition
Large succulents are fast becoming landscaping staples. And for a few very good reasons, including ease of care and maintenance and their gorgeous and unique appearance.
Whether you are starting from scratch or rescaping your front yard, consider using large succulents for your landscape.
If you are looking for the missing piece for your outdoor or indoor garden, you might need a succulent that readily commands attention. And one of the best ways to command attention is to dominate the landscape. Here are some big boys that are more than ready to fulfill that role.
1. Blue Fox Tail Agave
Image: istockphoto.com / Kira-Yan
The Blue Fox Tail Agave (Agave attenuata ‘Boutin Blue’) got its moniker from the appearance of its leaves. The leaves are shaped like the bushy tail of a fox and have a bluish-green color.
The succulent can grow up to four feet and spread out to roughly the same width as its height. Upon maturity, the Blue Fox Tail grows out a flower stalk that can reach a height of up to 10 feet.
The plant prefers full sun although it can grow in partial shade especially in areas where the temperatures can get extremely hot. It is not frost-tolerant and should be moved in a covered area during winter.
2. Tree Aloe
Image: istockphoto.com / Cheryl Ramalho
The Tree Aloe (Aloidendron barberae) is recognized as one of the largest aloe plants in Africa. This fast-growing succulent can grow up to 60 feet in height with a width of 36 inches. Because of its potential to grow big, you should not plant it close to a structure.
Although this aloe is a relatively fast grower, capable of increasing its height by four to 12 inches per year, it should not be planted with other plants that grow faster than it. When overgrown by other plants, the Tree Aloe can be smothered and die.
This aloe prefers full sun but can tolerate partial shade. It is prone to frost damage especially while young.
3. Golden Barrel Cactus
Image: istockphoto.com / RoExploration
The Golden Barrel Cactus (Echinocactus grusonii) is one of the more popular cacti. How popular? It is so popular among collectors that there are more specimens in homes than in the plant’s natural habitat.
This cactus is a real charmer. Young plants have circular bodies. But as the Golden Barrel matures, it takes on a shape that is more oval than circular.
A mature Golden Barrel can reach a height of three and a half feet and a width of two feet. The cactus is a slow-grower and can be kept indoors as long as its needs are met.
Indoors, it should be kept in a sunny location. Outdoors, it prefers the full sun but can tolerate partial shade. This cactus is prone to rot. And as such, it should be watered infrequently.
Keep the plant out of reach of young children and pets because of the cactus’ sharp spines.
4. Mexican Giant
Image: istockphoto.com / Sara Edwards
The Mexican Giant (Echeveria Colorata) is one of the larger echeverias, capable of growing up to 12 inches. Its leaves are fleshy and thick with pointy ends. Usually, the leaves are whitish-green. But when subjected to stress, the leaves can turn light pink or light purple. The leaves are also covered in farina, a waxy white coating.
The Mexican Giant thrives under the full sun. But watch the succulent carefully as it can be damaged by the sun.
Although it is a hardy succulent, it is prone to insect infestation. Mealybugs, aphids, slugs, caterpillars, and grasshoppers are some of the pests that you need to watch out for. Birds and mammals like deer can also feed on this plant.
5. Spiral Aloe
Image: istockphoto.com / Sabine Hortebusch
The Spiral Aloe (Aloe polyphylla) is sought by collectors, not just for its rarity. More than that, this succulent is a true beauty. This succulent grows up to one foot and spreads one to two feet wide.
The most striking characteristic of the Spiral Aloe is its leaves. The grayish-green leaves form a symmetrical spiral running clockwise or counterclockwise. On average, a Spiral Aloe can produce 150 leaves which are arranged in five ranks.
The aloe prefers full to partial sun. Younger specimens can be kept indoors. As for its water requirements, it requires less water than other members of the aloe family.
The plant originates from Africa where it is used for both magic and medicine.
6. Fire Sticks
Image: istockphoto.com / seven75
It can be difficult to miss the Fire Sticks (Euphorbia tirucalli) succulent whether it is placed in a garden bed or a container. The plant just calls attention to itself. Also known as Sticks on Fire and Red Pencil Tree, the plant typically grows between four to eight feet.
The true stars of the show are the plant’s vertical stems which have red-golden color. Younger specimens grow a few small leaves which eventually drop as these reach maturity.
Before getting this plant, be aware that it is toxic, especially when ingested. Aside from that, its white sap is irritating to both the eyes and skin. As such, proper precaution should be enforced when handling it.
7. Jade Plant
Image: istockphoto.com / ClaraNila
The Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) is probably one of the most popular succulents. This popularity can be attributed to a few key reasons. For starters, the Jade Plant, known by other names like Money Plant, Friendship Plant, and Lucky Plant, can be grown indoors with minimal fuss.
The plant requires a few hours of sunlight, a well-draining soil mix, and warm and dry conditions, similar to the conditions in most homes.
The plant is also fairly easy to propagate. You can propagate either with leaf or stem cuttings.
Finally, the Jade Plant lives for several years when you take good care of it. In fact, in some countries, the succulent is passed down from one generation to another.
On average, the plant grows to about three feet when kept indoors. However, some specimens grow up to eight feet tall.
8. Dragon Tree
Image: istockphoto.com / seven75
If you live in a coastal area, the Dragon Tree (Dracaena draco) might be the missing piece your garden is waiting for. The succulent is salt-tolerant and can thrive in both drought and dry soil. Plus, it is deer resistant.
Mature Dragon Trees can grow anywhere between 15 to 25 feet. However, it will take several years before your succulent reaches that height.
In the Canary Islands, some species are reported to be over a thousand years old. The sap from the tree has been used as a varnish for wooden items, including violins.
Young specimens of the plant have smooth stems and branches. But as these mature, the bark of the stems grow scales and take on a reddish hue.
9. Candelabra Cactus
Image: istockphoto.com / nmessana
The Candelabra Cactus (Myrtillocactus cochal) hails from the Baja Peninsula of Mexico where it grows on the hillside slopes. The cactus can grow up to 10 feet high and spread out to roughly the same size as its height.
Upon reaching maturity, the plant looks like a giant candle holder, with its semi-arced dark green branches growing from the woody trunk.
The Candelabra Cactus prefers the full sun with reflected heat. It is a drought-resistant succulent. However, during summers, you may need to water it more frequently.
It produces flowers between spring and summer. The cactus’s fruit is edible and delicious while its branches have been used as a firewood substitute.
10. Mexican Fencepost
Image: istockphoto.com / jean-francois
Beautiful and functional are probably the two best words that can sum up the Mexican Fencepost (Pachycereus marginatus). This cactus originates from Mexico where the locals use it as a living fencepost, especially in homes located near roads.
Today, landscape artists use the plants as an accent piece or as a part of a desert garden.
Given the right conditions, the cactus can reach a height of up to 20 feet. The cactus has a columnar trunk and produces neatly-arranged clusters of stems. The trunk and stems are deep green in color. It also has white margins on the body as well as small spikes located in the ridges.
The plant is best kept in an outdoor location where it can get full sun and ample heat. You can keep it indoors, provided that it gets enough sunlight.
11. Saguaro Cactus
Image: istockphoto.com / lucky-photographer
The Saguaro Cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) is recognized as the tallest cactus in the United States, with mature specimens towering at up to 60 feet tall. Filled with water, this cactus can weigh as much as 4,800 pounds.
But this cactus is a slow grower. For the initial eight years of its life, the plant will grow about an inch a year. It is estimated that it will take about 75 years before this cactus starts growing its characteristic arms which are actually stems.
And this cactus has the patience to wait. There are reports that specimens living in the desert to be as old as 175 years old.
The plant thrives under the full sun and requires a fast-draining soil and infrequent watering.
It is prone to infestation of both mealybugs and scale.
Go big
Succulents come in an array of shapes, sizes, and textures. And although several species look good in small containers, some tower over other plants. Adding these giants to your collection is a good way to diversify your plant portfolio and generate interest in your landscape.
Wondering if your succulent will ever grow back leaves that it lost?
The long and short of it is no, leaves will not grow back on the stem where the leaves fell from. But that is not necessarily bad. Your succulent will grow new leaves from its top.
Should you expect succulent leaves to grow back?
If your plant is otherwise healthy and does not exhibit other symptoms, you need not worry much about your succulent. Although leaves will not grow back on the area where these were originally from, your plant will not go bald for too long. You can expect new leaves to grow on top of the succulent.
In some types of succulents, fallen leaves are replaced by offshoots in the stems where these came from. Either way, you just need to be patient and wait until your plant looks luxurious again.
But what can you do if you are anxious about the appearance of your succulent? One option you can consider is replanting your succulent. First, take a look at the succulent and find an area above the bald spot. Using either a pair of pruning scissors or a sharp knife, cut the head of the succulent.
Afterward, put that top part directly to dry soil. Allow two weeks to pass before watering the part of the plant that you cut off. Within a few days or weeks, this portion of the plant will grow new roots and turn into a completely new plant. Once its roots become fully-established, it can resume its growth.
Why do succulents drop leaves?
But the more pressing question you should ask is why your plant is losing leaves. A succulent dropping leaves is not necessarily bad. Just like any other plant, a succulent will drop leaves when these have lost their utility to the plant.
1. Usual leaf loss
When a leaf is no longer useful to the plant, it will turn brown and crispy. This simply means that the plant has re-absorbed all the nutrients from this leaf. Usually, succulents drop their bottom leaves which are then replaced by new leaf growth at the top.
2. Extreme heat shock
Many varieties of succulents originate from arid regions. These plants have developed adaptations to both intense sunlight and high temperatures. That, however, does not mean that succulents cannot succumb to extreme heat. Even when a succulent is placed in a shaded area, it can still suffer heat shock if the ambient temperature is too hot for the plant to handle.
Young succulents are particularly vulnerable to heat shock. If you have just moved your succulent outdoors after spending a substantial time indoors, it may also become vulnerable to heat shock if it has not adjusted to its new environment.
How do you know for sure if your succulent is suffering extreme heat stress? When a succulent is subjected to extreme heat, its leaves wilt. In some species, the leaves may change color into red or orange. You will also notice that its leaves drop even with the slightest touch.
A quick remedy for heat shock is to move the plant in a cooler location, preferably one with ample shade. However, you need to make sure that there is no substantial difference in the temperatures between the plant’s original location and the area where you are bringing it.
3. Cold shock
Although a significant number of succulents come from arid climates, a good number of these plants come from alpine climates where temperatures can reach freezing or sub-zero temperatures.
But for a sizable number of succulents, particularly the soft or tender ones, extreme cold can cause damage. Succulents store water in their fleshy parts, including their leaves. When the temperature reaches a near-freezing level, the water inside a succulent’s individual cells become frozen. Eventually, these cells can burst, causing irreparable damage.
Before this happens, you will notice that the leaves of the plant begin turning black and start drooping. Save your succulent from imminent danger by moving it to a warmer area.
4. Over and under-watering
Unlike other plants, succulents do not need much water to thrive. With their unique ability to store water in their individual cells, succulents are more than equipped to handle droughts.
Over-watering is detrimental to succulent health. As such, avoid overwatering your plant. Otherwise, you can unknowingly kill it. Make sure that you use a fast-draining soil for its container and water your plant when its soil is dry. Overwatered succulents have leaves that look and feel soft. These leaves may also take a yellowish tinge.
Although very few people do it, it is possible to under-water succulents. Perhaps you have been too busy lately or you simply forgot to water your plants. Succulents that have been under-watered will have leaves that are soft and shriveled. The leaves usually retain their original color. Even the slightest touch can lead to dropped leaves. Left unchecked, the leaves eventually turn brown and continue to shrivel. In most cases, it is easier to turn things around for an under-watered succulent compared to one that has been overwatered.
Turning a new leaf
If you have an otherwise healthy succulent, leaf loss should not be a cause for concern. Plants, including succulents, lose leaves naturally. Eventually, your succulent will grow leaves, but not in the area where the dropped leaves came from.
However, the loss of leaves can sometimes signify a larger problem at hand, especially if you notice other symptoms. If you notice anything out of the usual, apart from dropped leaves, act quickly to save your plant.
Many people think succulents are tiny and fragile houseplants that are displayed unobtrusively on top of tables. But if you look more succulents, you will see that these low maintenance plants can become the focal point of any room.
1. Jade Plant
Image: istockphoto.com / Andrey Nikitin
The Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) is the quintessential indoor succulent, primarily because of its popularity. Known by names like Lucky Plant, Money Plant, and Money Tree, the succulent is often given as a housewarming gift. Due to its longevity, some specimens are passed down from one generation to another.
The plant can grow as high as six feet. However, many Jade Plant owners prune their plants to keep the height at around three feet.
Your Jade Plant requires five to six hours of indirect sunlight. It thrives in daytime temperatures between 18 and 24 degrees Celsius, and nighttime temperatures between 10 and 13 degrees Celsius.
Like other succulents, the Jade Plant is not a heavy feeder. You can fertilize it every six months using a water-soluble fertilizer.
2. Christmas kalanchoe
Image: istockphoto.com / Tatyana Abramovich
The Christmas Kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana) is native to Madagascar and goes by other names like Florist Kalanchoe and Flaming Katy. Like the Poinsettia, this succulent is often sold during the Holidays and thrown away once its flowers have died. However, the Christmas Kalanchoe can be kept for the whole year. With proper care, it can be coaxed to blossom the following year.
Like the Poinsettia, the Christmas Kalanchoe is photoperiodic. This means that if you want it to produce flowers, you should give it enough time to spend in complete darkness. Around September, the plant should receive 10 hours of sunlight and 12 to 14 hours of total darkness. After two to three months, the plant will produce buds.
Like most succulents, this plant requires well-draining soil. It prefers indirect sunlight but can tolerate the full sun. It also needs to be fertilized monthly.
3. Snake Plant
Image: istockphoto.com / Grumpy Cow Studios
Along with the Jade Plant, the Snake Plant (Sansevieria trifasciata) is probably one of the most popular succulents. The plant is a perennial favorite among new and old succulent collectors because of its seeming indestructibility. If you are close to giving up on keeping a plant, do not give up until you have owned this plant.
Originating from tropical and sub-tropical regions of Asia, Africa, and Europe, the Snake Plant has over 70 species. Among the most popular of these are the Cylindrical Snake Plant, the Golden Hahnii, and the White Snake Plant.
A mature specimen can grow anywhere between half a foot to 12 foot.
Although this succulent can survive in low light conditions, it prefers a few hours of direct sunlight. For this plant’s potting mix, use a sandy soil. Water it only when its soil is dry.
4. Crown of Thorns
Image: istockphoto.com / pichaitun
The Crown of Thorns (Euphorbia milii) is another succulent that originates from Madagascar. According to a legend, the plant was used as a crown by Jesus Christ during his crucifixion. Capable of reaching a height of three feet, the Crown of Thorns has brown thorns all over its branches and shoots. Yellow, pink, or red flowers grow from the plant’s tips.
The succulent is often recommended for beginners because it is easy to care for. It thrives best under direct sun. The more hours it spends under direct light, the more colorful its flowers will be.
But be warned: this succulent is not ideal for homes with small children and pets. Apart from being poisonous, the plant contains latex which irritates the skin and mucous membrane.
5. Aloe Vera
Image: istockphoto.com / Sundaemorning
Many homeowners keep the Aloe Vera, not only to spruce up their living spaces. More importantly, the plant is esteemed for its medicinal properties. Specifically, the clear gel from the plant is used for aiding in the healing of small cuts and minor burns. The gel can also be used for treating acne, redness, and mild psoriasis.
Some people use the plant’s juice for cosmetic purposes like removing makeup and hair conditioning. But be aware that there is no conclusive evidence that supports the efficacy of the plant for cosmetic uses.
You can extract the juice from the Aloe Vera by making a lengthwise incision from the plant’s spikes.
The plant is fairly easy to keep. It thrives best if you plant it in a terracotta pot filled with well-draining soil. This succulent prefers sunny locations and should be watered every two weeks or when its soil is completely dry.
6. Christmas Cactus
Image: istockphoto.com / Kathy Reasor
The Christmas Cactus is actually not a cactus. In reality, it is a succulent that has been produced by breeding two different plants that grow in the rainforests of Brazil. The plant is called by its common name because it blooms red, white, yellow, pink, or purple flowers near the Holidays.
The green segmented branches of the Christmas Cactus can grow as long as three feet. The flowers grow from the tips of these branches.
To encourage this cactus to bloom, you need to plant it in a well-draining potting mix. Compared to other succulents, the Christmas Cactus is a heavy feeder. As such, it needs to be fertilized every other week until it is ready to produce flowers.
Water the plant deeply but infrequently. It prefers indirect light. Do not put it under the full sun because its leaves can become sunburned.
7. Panda Plant
Image: istockphoto.com / TatianaMironenko
Also known as the Chocolate Soldier, the Panda Plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa) is a succulent that originates from Madagascar.
The plant can grow up to two feet tall and is characterized by its interesting looking leaves. The thick and fleshy leaves are fuzzy and can grow up to three inches long. The edges and tips of these leaves have brown markings. From afar, the leaves look like the ears of a panda or rabbit.
Outdoors, the plant is typically used either as a groundcover or as an accent plant. Indoors, it can be kept in a small pot or hung in a basket.
Also known as the Pencil Cactus, African Milkbush, and Finger Tree, the Sticks on Fire (Euphorbia tirucalli) is a shrub or tree-like succulent that is known for its colorful vertical stems. The thin, pencil-like stems have a golden red color which fades into yellow during the summer.
The plant grows up to eight feet tall and is a favorite among landscape artists because of its resilience against diseases, pests, and even small mammals.
This easy to care for plant prefers the full sun and rocky soil. Typically, you will find it used in garden beds and borders.
Be careful in handling the plant. Its milky sap is a skin and eye irritant.
Currently, numerous studies are focusing on the diverse use of this succulent. For example, medical experts are looking into how the plant can be used to treat cancer. Other studies are looking into the possibility of using the plant as an oil source.
9. Ponytail Palm
Image: istockphoto.com / SzB
Despite its name, the Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) is not a palm. It is actually a member of the Agave family. Although the succulent can grow over 20 feet in height, it is a notoriously slow-grower. As such, many keep the plant as a bonsai specimen.
The Ponytail Palm is close to what may be considered as the perfect indoor plant. For starters, it is a very forgiving plant. It can survive weeks without being watered. And although it requires bright light to thrive, it can be kept in low light conditions for several months, as long as you put it under bright lights for half of the year.
Like most succulents, the plant does not require constant watering. It does need dry, well-draining soil. Additionally, it is not a heavy feeder. You can fertilize it one to two times a year.
Pros and cons of keeping succulents indoors
Keeping succulents indoors has a few advantages. For one, these plants can instantly add beauty to your living or office space. Plus, succulents require minimal care, making them ideal for busy people.
An indoor environment can also protect succulents from pests and the elements. When you keep your succulents inside your home, you do not have to worry about changes in the temperature or weather, especially if you live in an area where the climate may not be particularly suitable for the succulents that you have chosen to keep.
Finally, keeping a succulent indoors lessens the chance of it succumbing to pests and some diseases.
But despite these benefits, you also have to be aware of the disadvantages of keeping succulents indoors. One of the greatest challenges that you will need to overcome is providing your plants with enough sunlight.
Although there are a few succulents that can thrive under low light conditions, many prefer six to eight hours of sunlight. And more often than not, placing your succulents near the windows may not be enough. In such a case, you can invest in grow lights.
Soil takes a bit longer to dry inside an indoor environment. This can be attributed to both lower indoor temperature and the lower level of airflow. This is why it is critical to choose the right potting mix for your succulents and to water them infrequently.
Before buying a succulent, be sure to check its care requirements. For beginners, it is a good idea to stick with green succulents which are easier to care for compared to succulents with exotic colors.
Tips for keeping succulents indoors
Part of the charm of keeping succulents is that these plants do not need much to thrive, whether indoors or outdoors. That, however, does not mean that you should not make an effort to provide for their needs. Here are a few tips that will help you keep your plants happy and healthy.
1. Use well-draining soil
Succulents can withstand drought. Living in arid environments, these plants evolved to adapt to what would otherwise be an inhospitable environment. However, succulents do not like getting their roots soaked. As such, it is imperative to use well-draining soil, whether you plant them on the ground or in a container. For most succulents, a potting mix specially formulated for cacti and succulents will do.
2. Choose the right container
Whether you choose a container made out of glass, plastic, or terra cotta, be sure that it has enough drainage holes to wick away moisture from the potting mix.
3. Pick the right spot
Most succulents require at least six hours of sunlight. Some need more, others less. Indoors, many succulents can thrive in south or east-facing windows. But do check your plants from time to time. If you notice that your succulents are stretching, it means that they need more sunlight.
4. Water deeply but infrequently
Succulents do not need to be watered daily or regularly. Overwatering makes these plants vulnerable to root rot, which in turn, makes them likely to die. Water your succulents until you see the fluids drain out from their containers. After that, wait until the soil in the containers is completely dry before watering again.
If you are unsure if you need to water your succulents again, err on the side of underwatering. Wait a few days before watering your plants.
5. Fertilize annually
Succulents are not heavy feeders. In fact, most originate from locations where the soil offers little to no nutrients. However, that does not mean that you should deprive your succulents of the nutrients they need. Most succulents will benefit from fertilizers during their growth phase. Avoid applying fertilizers when your plants are dormant.
The perfect indoor companion
If you are new to keeping plants indoors, there can be no better choice than a succulent. They are easy to care for and yet they can be rewarding to keep.
The Jade Plant is one of the more popular houseplants since time immemorial. And there are plenty of reasons why. For starters, the plant can be grown indoors. Whether at home or the office, this succulent can brighten almost any space. The plant is also known for its long life. This is why a single specimen can be passed down from one generation to another. Finally, the plant is easy to care for, with a minimal amount of requirements.
But if there is one important thing to remember when keeping this plant, it is that it requires the right type of soil.
What is the best soil for Jade Plants?
The best soil for Jade Plants is a mix of coarse sand and organic matter. In general, you can use commercial potting mixes specially formulated for succulents and cacti. However, some plant owners prefer mixing their potting soil, using three parts of coarse sand mixed with one part organic matter and another part of peat moss.
Jade Plant soil characteristics
The succulent originates from Mozambique and South Africa. In its original habitat, the plant can be seen growing in sandy and rocky soil. This type of soil offers little to no nutritional value to plants. As a succulent owner, you want to mimic your plant’s natural environment to give it the best chance of survival.
However, using sandy and rocky soil is not enough. You should also consider the fact that as your Jade Plant grows, it will become top-heavy. Furthermore, the succulent grows shallow roots, compared to other plants with extensive root systems. What this means is that the combination of these factors can make the Jade Plant susceptible to tipping over.
Additionally, the Jade Plant is classified as a succulent. This means that it does not like to get wet feet. Exposure to excessive moisture can cause the plant’s roots to rot and eventually die.
The solution to these problems is to provide a balance between drainage and structural stability. That balance is achieved by mixing organic matter with coarse sand. The addition of organic matter, especially peat moss, may sound counterintuitive. However, the presence of organic matter in this potting mix means that your Jade Plant will have a steady platform to anchor its roots.
At the same time, the organic components of the potting mix provide the plant with vital nutrients that a purely inorganic potting mix cannot provide. Additionally, any drawbacks caused by the addition of peat moss can be counteracted with proper watering.
Problems associated with poor soil
It does not take much to keep your Jade Plant healthy and happy. But even if you think that you are giving it proper care, some things can go wrong if you do not use the proper soil.
Poor drainage due to the use of the wrong type of soil can lead to root rot, a common problem among succulents. Like most succulents, the Jade Plant does not like having its feet or roots wet. Initially, you will notice symptoms like the darkening and softening of the plant’s leaves. At the same time, you will also notice leaves dropping off from the plant or the plant drooping.
Below the soil, the roots turn brown and mushy. As the rotting progresses, the roots can no longer carry water and nutrients to the other plant parts. In turn, the whole plant declines and eventually dies if the problem is not corrected.
On the other side of the coin, if your Jade Plant does not get enough water, either due to infrequent watering, poor water retention of the soil, or a combination of both, the plant can suffer from drought stress. A Jade Plant suffering from drought stress will exhibit a few symptoms. These include slow or stunted growth, leaf drop, leaf spots, and discoloration.
Choosing the right pot for the Jade Plant
Today, succulent keepers can choose from a wide variety of materials used for pots, including ceramic, plastic, glass, wood, and metal. Each of these materials has its own sets of advantages and disadvantages that you should strongly consider looking into before buying. Whatever type of material you end up choosing, make sure that the pot has several drainage holes which can aid in the fast-drainage of water.
Furthermore, it is a good idea to choose a pot that has sufficient heft, especially if you have a mature Jade Plant. As Jade Plants mature, they can get top-heavy, and tipping over is a strong possibility. A heavy pot can serve as a counterbalance, preventing that issue.
One potting material that combines drainage and heft is ceramic. When it comes to wicking excess water, ceramic pots are considered superior over other types of containers. Plus, these pots carry considerable weight, more than enough to maintain the balance for your Jade Plant.
Repotting Jade Plants
You do not need to repot your Jade Plant regularly. Like some succulents and cacti, the Jade Plant does not have an extensive root system. The succulent’s roots are shallow and relatively small compared to the main plant. As a rule of thumb, you should repot a Jade Plant every two to three years if you want it to grow more.
For older and more established specimens, you can get away with repotting every four to five years. Being root bound is not a major cause of concern for Jade Plants.
Ideally, you should choose a new pot that is one to two sizes larger than the current pot. Any larger and you risk your plant going into shock.
Every time you repot your Jade Plant, it is a good idea to use a new batch of potting mix. Over time, the soil can lose nutrients. Using a new potting mix allows your succulent to get a steady supply of the nutrients it needs.
Water your Jade Plant two weeks before repotting it. This will ensure that your succulent is completely dry once you repot it.
Start by pulling the root ball from the pot. After that, fill the new pot with your potting mix. Once you put in your plant into the new pot, it should be about even with the pot’s top. Because of the density of the potting mix, your plant will eventually sink.
After placing your plant, you can add compost around the rootball. Finish off by pressing down on all sides of the potting mix.
Allow your plant to rest for about a week before watering it again.
Conclusion
It does not take much to take care of a Jade Plant. Water it infrequently, give it ample light, and use the right type of soil. Make a wrong choice in any of the three and you can expect problems with your succulent.
Some cactus varieties can grow incredibly high, but it will take a very long time to get there. For example, the Saguaro can grow as high as 45 feet. However, it will take as long as 200 years for that cactus to reach that height.
How fast do cacti grow?
Generally speaking, cacti grow slow. In some species, you can hardly notice visible signs of growth. Others grow at a relatively faster pace. On average, you should expect your cactus to grow anywhere between less than half an inch to about an inch per year. And there are some cacti that can grow as much about six inches annually.
To better understand the pace of growth of most cacti, it is worthwhile to look from the vantage point of their growth stages.
Germination
Like many plants, cacti grow from seeds. However, you can also grow cacti from cuttings. If you are starting with a seed, you will first have to wait for it to germinate. The germination of cactus seeds will vary from one type to another. Some cactus seeds will germinate in a matter of weeks while others take several months.
In general, cactus seeds germinate faster in an indoor environment compared to an outdoor environment. This is because an indoor environment can be easily controlled. If a cactus seed is germinated outdoors, it may take several years for germination to take place. This is because the seed needs to wait for the right environmental conditions.
1 month
If you are starting from a seed, you might see spines growing from the seed in one month. However, take note that not all cactus species grow spines. Instead of waiting for spines to grow, you should wait for a seedling to appear from the soil.
If you do not notice spines or seedling growth in a month, do not despair. There are just some cacti that take more time to germinate. Just be patient.
Half a year
If you have successfully germinated your cactus seed, you may hardly see any difference within six months. It is not unusual for many cacti to remain the same size as a marble ball within six months.
One year
In a year, your cactus will essentially look the same as it was a few months ago. Although there might be no visible signs of growth, your plant’s needs have changed. Specifically, it needs to be moved from the propagation tray to its own pot.
Two years and beyond
Most cacti take years, decades even, to reach full maturity. As such, do not expect significant growth from your cactus.
Are you doing something wrong?
Although cacti have the reputation of growing slowly, it is also entirely possible that you are doing something wrong that is causing your plant to grow at a sluggish pace.
1. Using the wrong pot size
From germination to a year later, you will need to repot your cactus. Here, it is crucial to use the right size of pot for your plant. Placed in a container that is too small, your succulent is deprived of the nutrients it needs to grow further. Simply put, if you use the wrong pot size, you are limiting your plant’s growth potential. You may need to repot your cactus several times in its early stages.
2. Stress
After moving your cactus to a new pot, you should give it ample time to recover. Otherwise, you are subjecting it to stress. Cacti are extremely adaptable. However, they need to be given enough time to adjust to a new environment.
After repotting, keep your plant away from direct sunlight for a couple of days. This will give it the time it needs to recover fully. After a few days, you expose it to more sunlight on an incremental basis.
3. Overwatering
Cactus can withstand long periods of drought but like other succulents, it cannot tolerate excessive moisture. In fact, overwatering can be downright fatal for these plants. One possible reason why your cactus is not growing is that you are overwatering it.
The signs of overwatering in young cacti are not always readily apparent. In fact, you might be overwatering your plant without even knowing it. Cacti can continue to grow and show no signs of overwatering for weeks or even months. But when these signs do begin to emerge, it may be too late to save your plant.
Excessive moisture is the number one cause of death in cacti and succulents. When you give an excessive amount of water to your cactus, the roots sit in the water for a long time and this leads to root rot. When the plant’s roots begin to rot, they lose the ability to supply the whole plant with water.
That is when you will see visible signs of overwatering. These signs include discoloration, soft leaves and mushy texture. If the root rot is not extensive, you might just be able to save your plant. If there are just a few rotten roots, you can cut these away and plant your cactus in another pot.
4. Lack of ventilation
Between germination and the early stages of growth, the container of the cactus seedlings needs to be wrapped with a plastic cover or a transparent lid. The purpose of the plastic cover is two-fold. First, it helps the cactus to get access to enough sunlight. Second, it helps the soil retain moisture.
Once the seedling is established, you will need to remove the wrap gradually. Removing the plastic wrap facilitates ventilation which is an essential ingredient for growth in young cacti.
Are there ways to make a cactus grow faster?
The best way to make your succulent grow faster is to avoid the things that impede its growth. However, there are a few tricks that you can use to speed things up a little.
1. Repot your cactus
Choose a ceramic container that is a bit larger than your cactus’ current pot. Make sure that you fill the pot with a soil mix specially formulated for cacti. Alternatively, you can create a potting mix made up of one part organic soil and another part made of coarse sand. Also, be sure that you plant your cactus at about the same level as it was in its original container.
2. Move your cactus to a brighter spot
Find the sunniest area in your home. In most houses, this will be in a south-facing area. Make it a point to keep that area warm for your plant. Cacti prefer areas with a temperature range of 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
3. Water your cactus correctly
Cacti need more water during the summer months and less during winter. The best way to water cacti is to give them just enough water to moisten their potting mixes. After watering your plant, be sure to allow excess moisture to drain out of the pot’s drainage hole.
Water your plant again only when the soil is dry. Watering frequency will vary depending on the age of the plant, the season, and the size of the pot.
4. Use the right fertilizer
Providing your plant a low-nitrogen fertilizer formulated for cacti can give it the boost it needs for growth. However, avoid giving your cactus fertilizer during winter when it will probably go dormant.
As a rule of thumb, fertilize your cactus once or twice during its growth phase. Fertilizing it weekly can lead to more harm than good. Overfertilization can lead to uneven growth or even deformities.
Why are cacti such slow growers?
If you have kept other plants before, you will see a marked difference in the growth rates of those plants and your cactus. There are a few reasons behind this difference.
Survival adaptations
If you look at the places of origin of many cacti, you will instantly notice that these locations can barely support life. For the most part, that makes cacti such amazing plants, being able not only to survive but thrive in conditions that are downright hostile to plant life.
In the desert, the soil can be dry for most of the year with rain falling intermittently. Aside from that, desert soil is practically infertile, providing little to no nutrients to support growth. To thrive in this type of situation, cacti have evolved and adapted by putting their focus on survival and taking advantage of what little resources are available to them.
Instead of allocating resources toward growth, cacti use those resources to keep themselves alive until the rains come in.
Absence of leaves
Leaves serve a few critical functions in plants, including transpiration. Transpiration is the process by which plants lose water through evaporation. Transpiration is important for two reasons. It helps cool the plant and enables nutrients and water to be distributed throughout the plant. According to studies, a plant can lose as much 99 percent of water through transpiration.
If you look at a few cacti, you will see that most do not have conventional leaves. In place of leaves, these plants have spines which perform multiple functions. These include protection against animals, airflow reduction, and sun protection or shade.
The lack of leaves means that cacti do not lose as much water as other plants do. However, the absence of conventional leaves means cacti cannot produce as much food as other leaves.
The absence of leaves also translates to lower levels of chlorophyll. Chlorophyll gives plants their green color. It is also a critical part of photosynthesis, a process by which plants use the sun’s energy to create their food.
Without leaves, cacti have to rely on their stems for photosynthesis. This means that these plants can produce a considerably lower amount of food which they use mainly for survival instead of growth.
Fewer stomata
Apart from lacking leaves, cacti also have fewer stomata compared to most plants. Stomata are plant structures that open up to absorb carbon dioxide from the air. Carbon dioxide is integral to photosynthesis. When the stomata open to absorb carbon dioxide, water is also released.
Cacti evolved to have fewer stomata to limit water loss. However, this adaptation means that these plants cannot absorb as much carbon dioxide needed for fast growth.
The patience game
Even if you implement the hacks mentioned above, do not expect your cactus to grow as fast as other plants. Cacti are slow growers and there is not much you can do about it. But that is part and parcel of the beauty of keeping cacti.
Succulents have earned a reputation of being plants that can thrive in the harshest of conditions. Many of these plants grow in areas where the soil offers little to no nutrition. And if the best way to keep a plant is to mimic the conditions of its natural habitat, why should you fertilize your succulent? Are you not just wasting your money on something that your plant does not need?
Do your succulents need fertilizers?
Succulents, including cacti, do not need fertilizers to survive. However, if you want your plants to thrive and reach their full potential, giving them fertilizers is essential, depending on the conditions.
Technically speaking, succulents do not need fertilizers to survive. After all, these plants have adapted to live with few resources readily available in their places of origin. But surviving is not the same as thriving and feeding your succulents with the appropriate nutrients benefits them in many ways.
For starters, well-fed succulents grow faster compared to those that can barely get nutrients from the soil they are planted. Fertilizers also enable succulents to better respond to environmental conditions that can cause stress.
And even if your succulents derive nutrients from the soil, over time, these nutrients are washed away the more you water your plants. From time to time, the nutrients in the soil need to be replenished.
What fertilizer should you use for succulents?
Before discussing which fertilizers are suitable for your succulents, it is worthwhile to know which ones to avoid.
As much as possible, avoid giving your plants fertilizers that have a high amount of nitrogen. The high concentration of nutrients in this type of fertilizer is detrimental to the health and form of your plants. If you overfeed your succulents, you will notice that your plants become more prone to leaf and root problems.
1. Commercial fertilizers
If you have no other option but use a commercial fertilizer, choose one with an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 formulation. More importantly, lower the strength of the fertilizer by half or even a quarter.
For example, if it says on the label that you should dissolve a tablespoon of the fertilizer for every gallon of water, use half or a quarter tablespoon of the fertilizer. The quarter-strength formulation works best for tropical succulents like the Christmas Cactus.
2. Manure tea
Since time immemorial, farmers and savvy gardeners have relied upon manure to fertilize their crops.
The droppings from grazing animals like cows, horses, and sheep contain a diverse number of nutrients and minerals. These nutrients and minerals do not just feed crops. More importantly, manure conditions the soil to make it viable for longer periods. Animal droppings also feed the beneficial microorganisms that live in the soil.
Studies also indicate that manure offers other benefits like improving soil aeration and making the soil’s carbon content more available to plants. But despite these benefits, it is understandable why manure can be off-putting to some people.
If you want to reap these benefits without the associated hassles like the smell of manure, consider using manure tea. Manure tea offers all the benefits of animal droppings without the smell and other downsides. Plus, you are assured that your plants get the nutrients they need without the risk of getting burned and disfigured.
To use manure tea as a fertilizer, you will need to soak one tea bag for every five-gallon of water. You need to soak the tea bag anywhere between 24 to 36 hours. Once the nutrients leach into the water, you will notice that the water will turn brown. You can then use this solution to water your succulents. One batch is enough to water several succulents.
You can use one tea bag to create another batch of fertilized water. However, you will need to steep the tea bag longer, usually for three days.
Because manure tea is milder than commercial fertilizers, you can use it to fertilize your succulents monthly, especially during the growing season of your plants. Most succulents enter their growth phase during the summer.
3. Worm castings
Another organic alternative to chemical fertilizers that you might want to consider using is worm castings i.e. the droppings of worms. Almost all plants, including your succulents, can benefit from worm castings.
Worm castings contain over 60 minerals and other nutrients that are essential for plant growth and health. These include magnesium, nitrogen, zinc, carbon, and iron.
Worm castings can fix a few problems related to soil quality. These can be used to balance soil with high or low pH and even protect the plants from the presence of heavy metals in the soil. Worm castings also improve soil aeration.
Finally, worm castings protect plants from pests in two ways. First, the enzymes found in these repel common succulent pests like mealybugs and aphids. Second, worm castings contain the enzyme known as chitinase. When your succulents absorb this enzyme, they become more resilient against insects that feed on their leaves.
Insects instinctively sense chitinase in plants because the enzyme breaks down their exoskeleton. Better yet, chitinase poses no harm to beneficial insects like the ladybug.
You can add worm castings to the soil before planting your succulents. Alternatively, you can just put a few spoons to a handful of worm castings over the soil.
When should you fertilize succulents?
Succulents can be fertilized once a month in perfect conditions and this is a common practice among professional nurseries. The main drawback of monthly fertilization is that the plant seems to be incapable of thriving or even surviving in an environment where there is less control of the conditions, like in a home or a garden. In short, the plant loses its inherent ability to adapt. This is why it is advisable to feed your succulents just once a year.
If you want to fertilize your succulents, whether you keep them outdoors or indoors, the best time to do that would be spring, except for some succulents that go dormant in the summer. The logic behind this schedule is that you should feed your succulents when they need more nutrients, which is during their growth phase.
There is no need to feed your plant when it is about to go into hibernation. You are only wasting precious resources and you might end up doing more harm than good.
You should also be aware that when you feed your succulents, they will go into overdrive and grow at a faster pace. If you do not provide your plants with enough sunlight, they will stretch themselves even further to gather more light.
Providing adequate light for your succulents after feeding them allows them to remain compact.
Should you fertilize your succulents?
Succulents are exceptionally resilient plants, able to survive in environments that are downright hostile. It is amazing to see them thrive in their natural habitats with little to no nutrients available to them. But of course, using the right type of fertilizers, given at the right dosage and timing, can help your plant to thrive.
A succulent growing roots from its stem is something to take note of as it is often an indication of larger issues at hand that you may need to address immediately to ensure the well-being of your plant.
Roots growing on the stem of succulents
But what exactly are these growths on the stems of your plants? Are not roots supposed to grow below the plant, hidden in the soil? The proper name for these growths that you see on your succulent’s stems is aerial roots.
Plants rely on their roots for different functions. These functions include securing moisture and nutrients, transporting both to different parts of the plant, and holding the whole plant firmly in place, usually in the soil.
In most plants, you will find the roots attached to the base of the plant, buried in the soil. However, there are instances where these roots cannot perform their designated functions optimally and in such cases a plant may grow aerial roots to supplement the functions done by the main root system.
The presence of aerial roots can indicate that your plant is missing something. That something may mean that the plant is not getting enough water or that it needs to anchor itself, usually on a surface as its stems grow longer.
Functions of aerial roots
Aerial roots, also known as air roots, grow on stems to perform multiple functions. Like the main root system, aerial roots extract water and nutrients. But instead of extracting these resources from the soil, aerial roots extract these from the air.
Although you cannot see it, the air is filled with water in the form of water vapor. Aerial roots are capable of absorbing water vapor from the air. But compared to the primary root system, aerial roots are not as efficient in absorbing water.
Apart from water vapor, the air can also contain a small amount of nutrients that are valuable to your succulent.
Plants also need gases like oxygen and carbon dioxide for photosynthesis. In most plants, these gases are acquired by the leaves. But in some plants, the aerial roots also perform this key function.
Some plants called epiphytes use aerial roots to latch on securely to their host plants. Most succulents do not need to send out roots for structural support. If they do, it is because it has shallow roots that are close to the ground.
Finally, plants grow air roots to provide support to their runners. Succulents like the Haworthia are known to send runner stems. These trailing stems have aerial roots that aid in propagation. If those runners get cut off from the main plant, the aerial roots are converted into conventional roots which anchor and provide water and nutrients to the new plant.
Evaluating your succulent’s deficiencies
Although the appearance of aerial roots on a succulent is not a major cause for concern, they often indicate that your plant is not getting most of its needs met. In short, you can look at air roots as warning signals that prompt you to act to address your succulent’s deficiencies.
In this case, air roots appear, not to help in absorbing more light. On the contrary, these roots appear because the plant has become too top-heavy. Here, the main role of the air roots is to provide support to the plant once it tips over.
Dehydration
Aerial roots sometimes grow on stems because your succulent is dehydrated. Dehydration can arise due to two main reasons. Your succulent may be dehydrated simply because you are not giving it enough water. Some people think that succulents need little to no water because of their ability to store moisture.
Succulents like to get drenched in water. However, these plants do not need to be watered regularly. Imagine heavy but infrequent rains in the desert. If aerial roots appear, revisit your watering habits. Perhaps, you need to water your succulent more often than you have been doing.
On the other hand, you might be giving your plant enough water but it can still be dehydrated. In such a case, you should carefully examine the composition of the soil you are using. If there is a significant amount of organic matter in the soil, it can get too moist for your plant. This excessive moisture impedes the root system’s ability to draw water from the soil. If there is too much organic matter in the soil, change the soil to a different one, ideally one that is gritty.
Humidity
If you live in an area that has high humidity, you might see your succulent growing air roots from its stems. The appearance of these roots indicates that your plant is taking advantage of this situation. Specifically, your plant sees high humidity as an opportunity to get more water from the air.
For most succulents, high humidity is detrimental as it prevents water evaporation. Remember, your succulent does not like sitting on wet soil for an extended period. When it is too humid, it takes a long time for the soil to get dry. Eventually, this can lead to root rot. You can lessen humidity by increasing airflow. This can be done by opening the windows in your home or by using an electric fan.
It should be noted that not all succulents grow air roots from their stems.
Aerial roots typically appear in succulents that grow fast, like the Graptopetalum paraguayense and the Graptoveria ‘Fred Ives.’ You may also notice air roots on the stems of succulents that are in their growth phase.
What to do with aerial roots
You can leave the aerial roots and let them be. Their continued presence does not necessarily hurt your plant. However, these roots can become unsightly, especially when they become harder and thicker. If you want to remove these roots, you can just clip them off.
The more important issue at hand is determining your plant’s deficiencies. Try to look at the possible reasons for the presence of these air roots and remedy the underlying problem.
A warning sign
Although the presence of air roots does not necessarily mean that your succulent is in danger of dying, it indicates that your plant’s needs are not being met adequately. Consider the presence of aerial roots as a warning sign. Act fast to prevent grave problems from arising.
Succulents are excellent plants for small spaces. You can reap the same benefits of owning succulents (ease of care, longevity, etc.) in a small, manageable package.
Here is a list of seven succulents that stay small:
1. Echeveria amoena
Image: istockphoto.com / Creative life, looking for special pictures.
The Echeveria amoena is known both for its compact size and its prolific production of offsets. The succulents leaves can measure up to two inches in length, forming a small rosette. The leaves are green in color and can sometimes have red tips.
The Echeveria amoena produces coral-colored flowers from red stems during late spring. These blooms usually last for a month.
Like most echeverias, this succulent does not require extensive care or maintenance. However, there are a few things to bear in mind if you want to keep this plant. For starters, you should not water this plant from its crown. Doing this will create small pools of water to form on the rosette. These small pools of water can make the plant vulnerable to fungal diseases and rot.
Over time, the plant sheds its old leaves. Be sure to remove these immediately because mealybugs like to stay in the dead leaves. If you need to repot your plant, do it during the summer and make sure that you are using dry soil.
2. Echeveria minima
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In English, the Latin word “minima” translates to small. The Echeveria minima is a miniature succulent that is known both for its beauty and its size. Originating from Mexico, this plant can grow between three to five inches in height.
Its chubby, blue-green leaves form a tight rosette that has a diameter a hair below two inches. The rosette is tightly-packed that you cannot see much except the upper halves of the leaves.
When exposed to full sun, the leaves become stressed and their tips take on a pinkish hue.
The Echeveria minima produces bell-shaped, peach and orange-colored flowers during spring.
Like most succulents, the plant needs well-draining soil and deep but infrequent watering. The plant prefers full sun and without adequate light it may start stretching. It can be kept in partial shade or indoors, especially during winter.
Often mistaken as a variety of Aloe, the Zebra Cactus (Haworthia fasciata) is characterized by its fleshy leaves which have distinct white markings like that of a zebra. Despite its name, the Zebra plant is not a cactus.
A native of South Africa, this succulent is a slow grower. Mature specimens can reach a height of close to six inches.
Although the plant can be grown outdoors, it thrives indoors. Unlike other succulents that require hours under direct sunlight, the Haworthia prefers indirect light, making it one of the best plants to keep indoors. A lot of that has to do with its original habitat. In the wild, the Zebra Plant can be seen growing beneath rock formations and bushes.
When exposed to too much sunlight, the plant turns to a deep red color, a sign of stress. Eventually, the leaves turn white which is a sign that the plant has dried up.
4. Blossfeldia liliputana
In the book Gulliver’s Travels, Jonathan Swift describes a fictional island called Lilliput which is inhabited by small people. As such, it should not come as a surprise that the smallest cactus in the world is called Blossfeldia liliputana. And it is not just this cactus’ small stature that makes it also one of the most interesting succulents in the world.
Originating from Argentina and Bolivia’s arid regions, this tiny cactus grows up to less than half an inch.
Unlike other cacti, this plant does not have ribs nor spines. Instead, it has areoles that have tufts of wool. In the wild, the cactus can be found growing between rocks with barely enough soil to support its growth.
The plant can also lose as much as 80 percent of its water weight, capable of surviving in such a state for as long as two years. Once the rains come, the plant regains its normal size and shape without being harmed or undergoing significant change.
5. Gasteria ‘Little Warty’
Image: istockphoto.com / Anothai Wimolkaew
Despite its off-putting name, the Gasteria ‘Little Warty’ is one of the most beautiful succulents. A cross between two Gasteria species, Gasteria batesiana and Gasteria ‘Old Man Silver’, Little Warty can grow up to five inches tall and four inches wide. The plant’s nickname is derived from the small bumps which appear all over its thick green leaves.
Gasterias are close relatives of Haworthias and share the same care requirements. This means that Little Warty can tolerate partial shade.
This succulent is particularly vulnerable to fungal infections especially when there is high humidity. An infected Little Warty will exhibit black spots on its leaves. Fortunately, the succulent has a defense mechanism against fungi. When subjected to a fungal attack, the plant attacks the microorganism and seals off these invaders.
6. Sempervivum ‘Little Bobo’
Image: istockphoto.com / Helen Davies
The Sempervivum ‘Little Bobo’ is a charming little plant that possesses a few endearing qualities that make it one of the best houseplants. This type of Hens and Chicks plant achieves a maximum height of fewer than three inches and roughly the same width. Its lime-green leaves form a tight rosette.
Like other Hens and Chicks plants, Little Bobo is a prolific producer of offsets or chicks. These offsets can be left with the main plant or transplanted to different pots.
During summers, the plant requires weekly watering. It prefers coarse and gritty soil which will provide it with sufficient drainage.
The succulent is frost hardy and can be left outdoors during winter. However, like most succulents, it should be protected against heavy rainfall.
7. Lithops
Image: istockphoto.com / Nutsara Rukbangboon
Lithops, more popularly known as Living Stones are succulents that originally come from the southern parts of Africa. In their native habitat, it can be hard to distinguish between rocks and these plants primarily because of their appearance.
These slow-growing plants grow up to barely an inch in size. Each plant consists of two leaves that are fused together. The degree of fusion between these leaves can vary from one species to another. In some, the fusion is barely noticeable, while in others, the fusion is deep enough to give the impression that the plant has been cut in half.
To keep these plants happy, they need to get as much sunlight as you can give them. Deprived of sunlight, the leaves will elongate and their patterns can disappear.
Lithops are dormant during the summer. Avoid watering these plants during that period. However, if you notice that the leaves are starting to shrivel, the plants can be watered lightly.
Keeping your succulents small and manageable
A few succulents grow just a few inches even upon reaching maturity. And others seem to remain small because of their slow growth. However, if you want to keep any succulent small and manageable in size, there are a few things that you can do.
Prune
You can slow down the growth of leafy succulents like Jade Plant and the Christmas Cactus by pruning their leaves. Succulents like the Snake Plant and Aloe Vera can also be kept small by trimming their older, more mature leaves.
On the other hand, succulents like the Hens and Chicks plant that regularly grows small pups can be kept small by removing their baby plants. Removing the pups keeps the main plant relatively smaller. Plus, separating the pups prevents crowding in the pot.
Use small containers
Some succulents remain small while planted in small pots. These plants can stay in these small containers for several years. But there are also small succulents that need to be repotted to achieve their full potential.
But how do you know if you need to repot your succulent? If your plant is unhappy with its current container, it has a few ways of telling you it needs a larger home. First, you will notice that its pot can barely contain it. The plant’s various parts may look like they are spilling all over the container. You may also notice that the roots are growing out of the drainage holes.
Once you notice this, you can either keep your plant in the same container or move it to a larger pot. If you opt to keep your succulent in its current container, you should trim its leaves to maintain its small stature.
Many people confuse the Mother of Millions with Mother of Thousand, due largely in part to the similarity of their names. However, these are two distinct plants. The easiest way to distinguish one from the other is to look at their leaves.
Mother of Millions vs. Mother of Thousands, which is which?
The Mother of Thousands (Kalanchoe daigremontiana) has broad, tear-shaped leaves that grow in pairs that are located on the opposite side of the stem. One pair is positioned about 90 degrees away from the other pair.
This leaf growth pattern ensures that one pair of leaves does not block out the sun for the other leaves. The leaves of the Mother of Thousands contain ridges where the plantlets grow.
On the other hand, the Mother of Millions (Kalanchoe delagoensis) has narrow leaves. Typically, this succulent has four leaves that grow from the same node. Additionally, the plantlets of the Mother of Millions only grow on the tips of the leaves. As such, the plant has fewer plantlets, usually between two to five per leaf.
Apart from their leaves, the plants are different in their growth patterns. The Mother of Thousands has only one central stalk that grows upward. As the plant grows heavy with the sheer number of leaves and plantlets, the central stalk will droop.
The Mother of Millions, on the other hand, has several stems that also grow upward. However, these stems typically cause the plant to grow like a bush.
Similarities between the Mother of Millions and the Mother of Thousands
If you look closely at both plants, you will notice that they share a few similarities, apart from their names and their production of plantlets on their leaves. For starters, both plants come from Madagascar.
Both share similar care requirements. Both thrive under direct sunlight but can tolerate partial shade. As succulents, both plants need to be watered deeply but infrequently. They also thrive in well-draining soil.
But if there is one uncanny similarity between the two, that would be their ability to spread their plantlets with such great ease. In fact, both species can easily overgrow a garden. That is why these plants are often considered invasive species because of their efficiency in crowding out native plant species.
The plantlets produced by both plants are more than ready to grow upon reaching the ground. In essence, these plantlets are just miniature versions of the main plants. They can grow and survive even before they drop to the ground. All of these give the plantlets a distinct advantage over most plants.
Although both plants produce flowers and seeds, they do not flower often and rely almost exclusively on their plantlets for propagation.
Finally, both plants are known to be poisonous, especially to animals. That is why many governments seek to actively control the growth of these plants. Both plants secrete a milky sap when their stems are broken. This sap contains a dangerous toxin that is poisonous to pets and livestock.
A tale of 2 Kalanchoes
Kalanchoes are succulents that originate from Madagascar and Africa. This plant genus consists of 125 species, including the Mother of Thousands and Mother of Millions.
Kalanchoes share a few similarities. For one, their leaves are thick. Second, these plants open their flowers by producing new cells on the inner surface of the petals. The production of these new cells forces the flower to open outwards.
The flowers are star-shaped and bloom from winter to spring.
Kalanchoes thrive best in fast-draining soil and mild temperatures.
Like most succulents, Kalanchoes need minimal care and are susceptible to only a handful of pests and diseases.
Mother of Thousands
Also known as the Devil’s Backbone, Alligator Plant, and Mexican Hat Plant, the Mother of Thousands is a succulent that originates from Madagascar. Typically kept as a foliage plant, the succulent is often recommended to beginners because it is easy to care for and propagate.
Like most succulents, the Mother of Thousands requires soil with good drainage. If you are planning on keeping this plant, you can use a commercial cactus potting mix. Some succulent keepers use common potting soil mixed with coarse sand to boost drainage.
Unlike other succulents, the Mother of Thousands likes its soil moist. However, do not water the soil to the point that it gets too soggy.
This plant prefers bright but indirect sunlight. If you are keeping this plant outdoors, do not place it under direct sunlight.
Terracotta pots work best for these plants. Remember to repot your Mother of Thousands only after it outgrows its current container, ideally during spring.
The most interesting aspect of this plant is that it is easy to propagate. The Mother of Thousands is a prolific multiplier, evolved to reproduce like no other. While other plants reproduce through seeds or cuttings, this succulent relies on its plantlets. Although the Mother of Thousands produces flowers, it rarely does so, especially when kept indoors.
Upon reaching maturity, spoon-shaped spurs develop on the edges of the leaves. These spurs carry plantlets which, in essence, are clones of the mother plant. Over time, these plantlets grow bigger and produce their own roots. As the plantlets continue growing, the leaves carrying these droop due to the weight they carry.
To propagate this plant, you will need to take one to two plantlets and store these in a plastic bag. Keeping the plantlets is essential to keep these moist. Otherwise, the plantlets can become dry and eventually die.
After securing viable plantlets, you can then put these on top of a pot of soil. Avoid pushing the plantlets into the soil and give them enough space apart from each other. Once you have planted the plantlets, cover the pot with cling wrap. This ensures that the baby plants are moist. Place the pot in a place with ample sunlight. Keep the plantlets covered in plastic wrap just until they grow taller.
Mother of Millions
Like the Mother of Thousands, the Mother of Millions originally comes from Madagascar.
Also known as the Chandelier Plant, Mission Bells, and Christmas Bells, this flowering succulent can grow over two feet tall.
The Mother of Millions can be grown outdoors and indoors. Like most succulents, it prefers well-draining soil and partial shade. The plant should be repotted every two to three years, ideally with fresh soil.
The Mother of Millions can tolerate warm temperatures and prefers sunny locations. However, the plant should not be placed under direct sunlight.
Although the succulent is drought-tolerant, it should be watered one to two times a week, especially between spring and fall. You can water it less frequently during winter. When overwatered, the leaves begin to droop and the plant drops its plantlets.
Like the Mother of Thousands, the Mother of Millions is easy to propagate. To propagate this succulent, you will need to wait until the plantlets found on the edges of the leaves start to drop and take root. The plantlets can be planted in separate containers or small groups in a single pot. Either way, you have to make sure that you use well-draining soil. As the plantlets grow, these should be transplanted to larger pots.
The Mother of Millions is a resilient plant and rarely succumbs to pests and diseases. One particular problem to watch out for is mildew infection which typically arises when the air is too dry.
The plant has long been associated with cattle deaths. In the wild, the plant can be easily spread in pasturelands through floodwater, animals, and vehicles. This, combined with the plant’s toxicity, make the succulent a threat to livestock. When cows ingest the plant and its flowers, the animals can become poisoned, and when left untreated, die.
Keeping your plants in check
There is no doubt that both the Mother of Millions and Mother of Thousands are interesting plants because of their unique ability to propagate. But these same qualities can make these plants pests, especially when left on their own devices. This is particularly true if you live in an area where the climate provides these plants with the right living conditions.
To put it succinctly, keeping either of these plants entails responsibility, especially in terms of controlling the spread of their plantlets. Keep these plants in separate containers. This will make it easier for you to control the spread of the plantlets and prevent the young plants from making their way outside of your property.
Unless you are planning to propagate either of these plants, you should regularly check the mother plants and remove the plantlets before these take root and grow.
What makes a plant invasive?
Plants that are deemed invasive, like the Mother of Millions and Mother of Thousands, are not inherently harmful. The qualities that make these plants invasive are in fact adaptations that allowed them to survive and compete with other organisms in their native locations.
In their natural habitat, numerous factors keep their populations in check, ranging from predators to environmental conditions. Invasive plants cause problems when they are brought from their places of origin to locations where they may have an unfair advantage over indigenous plants.
When you bring a plant to a new location, two things can happen. It can die because it is unfit to survive in that new location or it can thrive because there is little to no competition that will keep its population in check.
Invasive plant species share a few qualities that make them successful. These include the ability to multiply and grow rapidly, qualities present in both the Mother of Thousands and Mother of Millions.
These qualities are not inherently bad, especially when seen in the context of surviving in their places of origin. However, these same qualities put native plants at a disadvantage when both types of Kalanchoes are released outdoors.
A big responsibility
There is no doubt that both the Mother of Millions and Mother of Thousands make excellent additions to any succulent collection, but due to the nature of their reproduction, you should be aware of the associated responsibilities of keeping both plants in your garden.
Be aware of the tendencies of both plants and put into place protective measures to prevent their spread in your local environment.
On average, a Moon Cactus can live anywhere between one to three years. However, there are a few anecdotes of succulent keepers who have kept specimens well over five years. On the other hand, it is not unusual for a Moon Cactus to live just a few months, especially if you do not have any experience caring for one.
The short history of the Moon Cactus
In reality, the Moon Cactus is actually two plants combined into one. Or more accurately, the Moon Cactus is a product of grafting the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii with another species, typically the Hylocereus.
The Gymnocalycium mihanovichii is a small cactus that originally comes from South America. Collectors are enamored by its small stature and spherical shape. The plant is grey-green with deep purple accents. Its body can have anywhere between eight to 14 ribs.
The Japanese commercial nurseryman named Eiji Watanabe is widely considered as the person who developed what is now known as the Moon Cactus. In 1937, Watanabe bought 300 seeds of the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii var. friedrichii.
He was able to successfully germinate these seeds until most of these grew and produced their seeds. By 1940, Watanabe had 10,000 seedlings. Of these two seedlings, he found two mutants with reddish bodies which he then grafted. He continued propagating Gymnocalycium mihanovichii var. friedrichii with the hope of finding seedlings with better colors.
Understanding grafting
The remarkable coloration that Watanabe was able to develop out of his collection of Gymnocalycium mihanovichii comes at a steep price. His collection lacked chlorophyll, a pigment essential for energy production in plants.
This absence of chlorophyll allowed the other colors in the cactus to come to the forefront. However, this also meant that the cactus cannot survive on its own for a long period.
To work around this issue, Watanabe grafted the cactus onto another cactus called Hylocereus. resulting in what is now known as the Moon Cactus.
What is grafting?
Grafting is a horticultural technique where two plants are combined. The purpose of this technique is to grow a single plant that possesses the good qualities of two plants. This technique has been widely used in fruiting trees and ornamental plants.
In grafting, you have the scion which is the plant that is chosen because of its fruit production or its ornamental qualities. On the other hand, you have the rootstock which supplies the scion with the qualities it needs to thrive.
In the Moon Cactus, the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii is the scion and the Hylocereus is the rootstock.
In general, grafted plants have long lifespans. But the Moon Cactus is a problematic combination of two seemingly incompatible cacti. The main problem with the Moon Cactus is that the scion and the rootstock are incompatible. Specifically, Gymnocalycium mihanovichii grows just a few inches while the Hylocereus is a tall cactus, capable of reaching a height of 30 feet.
The disparity in the growth rate of the two cacti translates to difficulty in getting watering right for the Moon Cactus. Initially, this disparity may not be readily apparent. But as your Moon Cactus matures the rootstock grows faster.
But apart from the disparity in height and growth rate, another critical issue with the Moon Cactus is the different care requirements of the two plants that have been combined.
Specifically, the Gymnocalycium mihanovichii prefers the shade, primarily because its lack of chlorophyll makes it susceptible to sunburn. The Hylocereus, on the other hand, prefers the full sun although it can tolerate partial shade.
Although most cacti live for several years, the Moon Cactus is fated to have a short lifespan because essentially, you have two plants, with one acting as a parasite.
Over time, the rootstock cannot produce enough food for itself and the scion. This unstable combination weakens both the scion and rootstock.
Saving your Moon Cactus
Fortunately, it is possible to prolong the lifespan of your Moon Cactus. To do that, you will need to separate the scion and the rootstock.
Grafting the scion
Before grafting the scion, you will need to get a new rootstock. Apart from the Hylocereus, you may use a Cereus or Trichocereus. Make sure that the new rootstock is more or less the same size as your scion.
Start the grafting process by making a clean cut on the top of the new rootstock.
Next, take the scion by cutting around the area near the old rootstock. Do not leave any part of the old rootstock on the scion.
Afterward, place the scion on top of the rootstock. The circle that you will find in the cross-section of both plants should be aligned.
Finally, secure both cacti by using a rubber band. Typically, it will take two months for the rootstock and the scion to make a full connection.
Saving the old rootstock
After removing the scion, the rootstock can now sustain itself. In fact, after the removal of the scion, new growth will appear on the rootstock.
Once the scion has been removed and grafted to a new rootstock, you will need to make another cut on the old rootstock, just below where the Gymnocalycium was previously positioned.
Next, allow the old rootstock to callous over by placing it in a sunny location.
A short-lived beauty
Some succulent collectors oppose the sales and collection of the Moon Cactus.
They reason out that the plant damages their hobby because the plant sets up new collectors to fail because of the problems associated with keeping Moon Cactus.
If you are planning to get one for yourself, be aware of the issues mentioned above.
